haveseenitintheAcademy；IhaveseenitinthelastFrenchExposition，excellentlydonebyBloomer；inablack-and-whitebyMr。A。Henley，itonceadornedthisessayinthepagesoftheMAGAZINEOFART。Long-sufferingbridge!AndifyouvisitGretzto-morrow，youshallfindanothergeneration，campedatthebottomofChevillon\'sgardenundertheirwhiteumbrellas，anddoggedlypaintingitagain。
Thebridgetakenforgranted，GretzisalessinspiringplacethanBarbizon。IgiveitthepalmoverCernay。ThereissomethingghastlyinthegreatemptyvillagesquareofCernay，withtheinntablesstandinginonecorner，asthoughthestageweresetforrusticopera，andintheearlymorningallthepaintersbreakingtheirfastuponwhitewineunderthewindowsofthevillagers。ItisvastlydifferenttoawakeinGretz，togodownthegreeninn-
garden，tofindtheriverstreamingthroughthebridge，andtoseethedawnbeginacrossthepoplaredlevel。Themealsarelaidinthecoolarbour，underflutteringleaves。Thesplashofoarsandbathers，thebathingcostumesouttodry，thetrimcanoesbesidethejetty，tellofasocietythathasaneyetopleasure。Thereis\"somethingtodo\"atGretz。Perhaps，forthatveryreason，Icanrecallnosuchenduringardours，nosuchgloriesofexhilaration，asamongthesolemngrovesanduneventfulhoursofBarbizon。This\"somethingtodo\"isagreatenemytojoy；itisawayoutofit；
youwreakyourhighspiritsonsomecut-and-dryemployment，andbeholdthemgone!ButGretzisamerryplaceafteritskind:
prettytosee，merrytoinhabit。Thecourseofitspellucidriver，whetherupordown，isfullofgentleattractionsforthenavigator:islandedreed-mazeswhere，inautumn，theredberriescluster；themirroredandinvertedimagesoftrees，lilies，andmills，andthefoamandthunderofweirs。Andofallnoblesweepsofroadway，noneisnobler，onawindydusk，thanthehighroadtoNemoursbetweenitslinesoftalkingpoplar。
ButevenGretzischanged。Theoldinn，longshoredandtrussedandbuttressed，fellatlengthunderthemereweightofyears，andtheplaceasitwasisbutafadingimageinthememoryofformerguests。They，indeed，recalltheancientwoodenstair；theyrecalltherainyevening，thewidehearth，theblazeofthetwigfire，andthecompanythatgatheredroundthepillarinthekitchen。Butthematerialfabricisnowdust；soon，withthelastofitsinhabitants，itsverymemoryshallfollow；andthey，intheirturn，shallsufferthesamelaw，and，bothinnameandlineament，vanishfromtheworldofmen。\"Forremembranceoftheoldhouse\'sake，\"
asPepysoncequaintlyputit，letmetellonestory。WhenthetideofinvasionsweptoverFrance，twoforeignpainterswereleftstrandedandpennilessinGretz；andthere，untilthewarwasover，theChevillonsungrudginglyharbouredthem。Itwasdifficulttoobtainsupplies；butthetwowaifswerestillwelcometothebest，satdowndailywiththefamilytotable，andatthedueintervalsweresuppliedwithcleannapkins，whichtheyscrupledtoemploy。
MadameChevillonobservedthefactandreprimandedthem。Buttheystoodfirm；eattheymust，buthavingnomoneytheywouldsoilnonapkins。
VI
NemoursandMoret，foralltheyaresopicturesque，havebeenlittlevisitedbypainters。Theyare，indeed，toopopulous；theyhavemannersoftheirown，andmightresistthedrasticprocessofcolonisation。Montignyhasbeensomewhatstrangelyneglected，I
neverknewitinhabitedbutonce，whenWillH。LowinstalledhimselftherewithabarrelofPIQUETTE，andentertainedhisfriendsinaleafytrellisabovetheweir，insightofthegreencountryandtothemusicofthefallingwater。Itwasamostairy，quaint，andpleasantplaceofresidence，justtoorustictobestagey；andfrommymemoriesoftheplaceingeneral，andthatgardentrellisinparticular-atmorning，visitedbybirds，oratnight，whenthedewfellandthestarswereoftheparty-IaminclinedtothinkperhapstoofavourablyofthefutureofMontigny。
Chailly-en-Bierehasoutlivedallthings，andliesdustilyslumberingintheplain-thecemeteryofitself。Thegreatroadremainstotestifyofitsformerbustleofpostilionsandcarriagebells；and，likememorialtablets，therestillhangintheinnroomthepaintingsofaformergeneration，deadordecoratedlongago。
Inmytime，onemanonly，greatlydaring，dweltthere。FromtimetotimehewouldwalkovertoBarbizonlikeashaderevisitingtheglimpsesofthemoon，andaftersomecommunicationwithfleshandbloodreturntohisausterehermitage。Butevenhe，whenIlastrevisitedtheforest，hadcometoBarbizonforgood，andclosedtherollofChaillyites。Itmayrevive-butImuchdoubtit。AcheresandReclosesstillwaitapioneer；Bourronisoutofthequestion，beingmerelyGretzoveragain，withouttheriver，thebridge，orthebeauty；andofallthepossibleplacesonthewesternside，Marlottealoneremainstobediscussed。IscarcelyknowMarlotte，and，verylikelyforthatreason，amnotmuchinlovewithit。Itseemsaglaringandunsightlyhamlet。TheinnofMotherAntonieisunattractive；anditsmorereputablerival，thoughcomfortableenough，iscommonplace。Marlottehasaname；itisfamous；ifI
weretheyoungpainterIwouldleaveitaloneinitsglory。
VII
Thesearethewordsofanoldstager；andthoughtimeisagoodconservativeinforestplaces，muchmaybeuntrueto-day。ManyofushavepassedArcadiandaysthereandmovedon，butyetleftaportionofoursoulsbehindusburiedinthewoods。Iwouldnotdigforthesereliquiae；theyareincommunicabletreasuresthatwillnotenrichthefinder；andyettheremaylie，interredbelowgreatoaksorscatteredalongforestpaths，storesofyouth\'sdynamiteanddearremembrances。Andasonegenerationpassesonandrenovatesthefieldoftillageforthenext，Ientertainafancythatwhentheyoungmenofto-daygoforthintotheforesttheyshallfindtheairstillvitalisedbythespiritsoftheirpredecessors，and，likethose\"unheardmelodies\"thatarethesweetestofall，thememoryofourlaughtershallstillhauntthefieldoftrees。Thosemerryvoicesthatinwoodscallthewandererfarther，thosethrillingsilencesandwhispersofthegroves，surelyinFontainebleautheymustbevocalofmeandmycompanions？
Wearenotcontenttopassawayentirelyfromthescenesofourdelight；wewouldleave，ifbutingratitude，apillarandalegend。
Onegenerationafteranotherfalllikehoney-beesuponthismemorableforest，rifleitssweets，packthemselveswithvitalmemories，andwhenthetheftisconsummateddepartagainintolifericher，butpooreralso。Theforest，indeed，theyhavepossessed，fromthatdayforwarditistheirsindissolubly，andtheywillreturntowalkinitatnightinthefondestoftheirdreams，anduseitforeverintheirbooksandpictures。Yetwhentheymadetheirpackets，andputuptheirnotesandsketches，something，itshouldseem，hadbeenforgotten。Aprojectionofthemselvesshallappeartohauntunfriendedthesescenesofhappiness，anaturalchildoffancy，begottenandforgottenunawares。Overthewholefieldofourwanderingssuchfetchesarestilltravellinglikeindefatigablebagmen；buttheimpsofFontainebleau，asofallbelovedspots，areverylongoflife，andmemoryispiouslyunwillingtoforgettheirorphanage。Ifanywhereaboutthatwoodyoumeetmyairybantling，greethimwithtenderness。Hewasapleasantlad，thoughnowabandoned。Andwhenitcomestoyourownturntoquittheforest，mayyouleavebehindyousuchanother；noAntonyorWerther，letushope，notearfulwhipster，but，asbecomesthisnotuncheerfulandmostactiveageinwhichwefigure，thechildofhappyhours。
Noart，itmaybesaid，waseverperfect，andnotmanynoble，thathasnotbeenmirthfullyconceived。
Andnoman，itmaybeadded，waseveranythingbutawetblanketandacrosstohiscompanionswhoboastednotacopiousspiritofenjoyment。WhetherasmanorartistlettheyouthmakehastetoFontainebleau，andoncetherelethimaddresshimselftothespiritoftheplace；hewilllearnmorefromexercisethanfromstudies，althoughbotharenecessary；andifhecangetintohisheartthegaietyandinspirationofthewoodshewillhavegonefartoundotheevilofhissketches。Aspiritoncewellstrunguptotheconcert-pitchoftheprimevalout-of-doorswillhardlydaretofinishastudyandmagniloquentlyticketitapicture。Theincommunicablethrillofthings，thatisthetuning-forkbywhichwetesttheflatnessofourart。HereitisthatNatureteachesandcondemns，andstillspursuptofurthereffortandnewfailure。
Thusitisthatshesetsusblushingatourignorantandtepidworks；andthemorewefindoftheseinspiringshocksthelessshallwebeapttolovetheliteralinourproductions。Inallsciencesandsensestheletterkills；andto-day，whencacklinghumangeeseexpresstheirignorantcondemnationofallstudiopictures，itisalessonmostusefultobelearnt。LettheyoungpaintergotoFontainebleau，andwhilehestupefieshimselfwithstudiesthatteachhimthemechanicalsideofhistrade，lethimwalkinthegreatair，andbeaservantofmirth，andnotpickandbotanise，butwaituponthemoodsofnature。Sohewilllearn-orlearnnottoforget-thepoetryoflifeandearth，which，whenhehasacquiredhistrack，willsavehimfromjoylessreproduction。
[1882。]
CHAPTERIV-EPILOGUETO\"ANINLANDVOYAGE\"
THEcountrywheretheyjourneyed，thatgreen，breezyvalleyoftheLoing，isoneveryattractivetocheerfulandsolitarypeople。Theweatherwassuperb；allnightitthunderedandlightened，andtherainfellinsheets；byday，theheavenswerecloudless，thesunfervent，theairvigorousandpure。Theywalkedseparate:theCigaretteploddingbehindwithsomephilosophy，theleanArethusapostingonahead。Thuseachenjoyedhisownreflectionsbytheway；eachhadperhapstimetotireofthembeforehemethiscomradeatthedesignatedinn；andthepleasuresofsocietyandsolitudecombinedtofilltheday。TheArethusacarriedinhisknapsacktheworksofCharlesofOrleans，andemployedsomeofthehoursoftravelintheconcoctionofEnglishroundels。Inthispath，hemustthushaveprecededMr。Lang，Mr。Dobson，Mr。Henley，andallcontemporaryroundeleers；butforgoodreasons，hewillbethelasttopublishtheresult。TheCigarettewalkedburthenedwithavolumeofMichelet。Andboththesebooks，itwillbeseen，playedapartinthesubsequentadventure。
TheArethusawasunwiselydressed。Heisnoprecisianinattire；
butbyallaccounts，hewasneversoill-inspiredasonthattramp；
havingsetforthindeed，uponamoment\'snotice，fromthemostunfashionablespotinEurope，Barbizon。Onhisheadheworeasmoking-capofIndianwork，thegoldlacepitifullyfrayedandtarnished。Aflannelshirtofanagreeabledarkhue，whichthesatiricalcalledblack；alighttweedcoatmadebyagoodEnglishtailor；ready-madecheaplinentrousersandleatherngaiterscompletedhisarray。Inperson，heisexceptionallylean；andhisfaceisnot，likethoseofhappiermortals，acertificate。Foryearshecouldnotpassafrontierorvisitabankwithoutsuspicion；thepoliceeverywhere，butinhisnativecity，lookedaskanceuponhim；and(thoughIamsureitwillnotbecredited)heisactuallydeniedadmittancetothecasinoofMonteCarlo。Ifyouwillimaginehim，dressedasabove，stoopingunderhisknapsack，walkingnearlyfivemilesanhourwiththefoldsoftheready-madetrousersflutteringabouthisspindleshanks，andstilllookingeagerlyroundhimasifinterrorofpursuit-thefigure，whenrealised，isfarfromreassuring。WhenVillonjourneyed(perhapsbythesamepleasantvalley)tohisexileatRoussillon，Iwonderifhehadnotsomethingofthesameappearance。Somethingofthesamepreoccupationhehadbeyondadoubt，forhetoomusthavetinkeredversesashewalked，withmoresuccessthanhissuccessor。
Andifhehadanythinglikethesameinspiringweather，thesamenightsofuproar，meninarmourrollingandresoundingdownthestairsofheaven，therainhissingonthevillagestreets，thewildbull\'s-eyeofthestormflashingallnightlongintothebareinn-
chamber-thesamesweetreturnofday，thesameunfathomableblueofnoon，thesamehigh-coloured，halcyoneves-andaboveall，ifhehadanythinglikeasgoodacomrade，anythinglikeaskeenarelishforwhathesaw，andwhatheate，andtheriversthathebathedin，andtherubbishthathewrote，Iwouldexchangeestatesto-daywiththepoorexile，andcountmyselfagainer。
Buttherewasanotherpointofsimilaritybetweenthetwojourneys，forwhichtheArethusawastopaydear:bothweregoneuponindaysofincompletesecurity。ItwasnotlongaftertheFranco-
Prussianwar。Swiftlyasmenforget，thatcountry-sidewasstillalivewithtalesofuhlans，andoutlyingsentries，andhairbreadth\'scapesfromtheignominiouscord，andpleasantmomentaryfriendshipsbetweeninvaderandinvaded。Ayear，atthemosttwoyearslater，youmighthavetrampedallthatcountryoverandnotheardoneanecdote。Andayearortwolater，youwould-ifyouwerearatherill-lookingyoungmaninnondescriptarray-havegoneyourroundsingreatersafety；foralongwithmoreinterestingmatter，thePrussianspywouldhavesomewhatfadedfrommen\'simaginations。
Forallthat，ourvoyagerhadgotbeyondChateauRenardbeforehewasconsciousofarousingwonder。OntheroadbetweenthatplaceandChatillon-sur-Loing，however，heencounteredaruralpostman；
theyfelltogetherintalk，andspokeofavarietyofsubjects；butthroughoneandall，thepostmanwasstillvisiblypreoccupied，andhiseyeswerefaithfultotheArethusa\'sknapsack。Atlast，withmysteriousroguishness，heinquiredwhatitcontained，andonbeinganswered，shookhisheadwithkindlyincredulity。\"NON，\"saidhe，\"NON，VOUSAVEZDESPORTRAITS。\"Andthenwithalanguishingappeal，\"VOYONS，showmetheportraits!\"ItwassomelittlewhilebeforetheArethusa，withashoutoflaughter，recognisedhisdrift。Byportraitshemeantindecentphotographs；andintheArethusa，anaustereandrisingauthor，hethoughttohaveidentifiedapornographiccolporteur。WhencountryfolkinFrancehavemadeuptheirmindsastoaperson\'scalling，argumentisfruitless。Alongalltherestoftheway，thepostmanpipedandflutedmeltinglytogetasightofthecollection；nowhewouldupbraid，nowhewouldreason-\"VOYONS，Iwilltellnobody\"；thenhetriedcorruption，andinsistedonpayingforaglassofwine；
and，atlastwhentheirwaysseparated-\"NON，\"saidhe，\"CEN\'EST
PASBIENDEVOTREPART。ONON，CEN\'ESTPASBIEN。\"Andshakinghisheadwithquiteasentimentalsenseofinjury，hedepartedunrefreshed。
OncertainlittledifficultiesencounteredbytheArethusaatChatillon-sur-Loing，Ihavenotspacetodwell；anotherChatillon，ofgrisliermemory，loomstoonearathand。Butthenextday，inacertainhamletcalledLaJussiere，hestoppedtodrinkaglassofsyrupinaverypoor，baredrinkingshop。Thehostess，acomelywoman，sucklingachild，examinedthetravellerwithkindlyandpityingeyes。\"Youarenotofthisdepartment？\"sheasked。TheArethusatoldherhewasEnglish。\"Ah!\"shesaid，surprised。\"WehavenoEnglish。WehavemanyItalians，however，andtheydoverywell；theydonotcomplainofthepeopleofhereabouts。AnEnglishmanmaydoverywellalso；itwillbesomethingnew。\"Herewasadarksaying，overwhichtheArethusaponderedashedrankhisgrenadine；butwhenheroseandaskedwhatwastopay，thelightcameuponhiminaflash。\"O，POURVOUS，\"repliedthelandlady，\"ahalfpenny!\"POURVOUS？Byheaven，shetookhimforabeggar!
Hepaidhishalfpenny，feelingthatitwereungracioustocorrecther。Butwhenhewasforthagainupontheroad，hebecamevexedinspirit。Theconscienceisnogentleman，heisarabbinicalfellow；
andhisconsciencetoldhimhehadstolenthesyrup。
ThatnightthetravellerssleptinGien；thenextdaytheypassedtheriverandsetforth(severally，astheircustomwas)onashortstagethroughthegreenplainupontheBerryside，toChatillon-
sur-Loire。Itwasthefirstdayoftheshooting；andtheairrangwiththereportoffirearmsandtheadmiringcriesofsportsmen。
Overheadthebirdswereinconsternation，wheelinginclouds，settlingandre-arising。Andyetwithallthisbustleoneitherhand，theroaditselflaysolitary。TheArethusasmokedapipebesideamilestone，andIrememberhelaiddownveryexactlyallhewastodoatChatillon:howhewastoenjoyacoldplunge，tochangehisshirt，andtoawaittheCigarette\'sarrival，insublimeinaction，bythemarginoftheLoire。Firedbytheseideas，hepushedthemorerapidlyforward，andcame，earlyintheafternoonandinabreathingheat，totheentering-inofthatill-fatedtown。
ChildeRolandtothedarktowercame。
Apolitegendarmethrewhisshadowonthepath。
\"MONSIEURESTVOYAGEUR？\"heasked。
AndtheArethusa，stronginhisinnocence，forgetfulofhisvileattire，replied-Ihadalmostsaidwithgaiety:\"Soitwouldappear。\"
\"Hispapersareinorder？\"saidthegendarme。AndwhentheArethusa，withaslightchangeofvoice，admittedhehadnone，hewasinformed(politelyenough)thathemustappearbeforetheCommissary。
TheCommissarysatatatableinhisbedroom，strippedtotheshirtandtrousers，butstillcopiouslyperspiring；andwhenheturnedupontheprisoneralargemeaninglesscountenance，thatwas(likeBardolph\'s)\"allwhelksandbubuckles，\"thedullestmighthavebeenpreparedforgrief。Herewasastupidman，sleepywiththeheatandfretfulattheinterruption，whomneitherappealnorargumentcouldreach。
THECOMMISSARY。Youhavenopapers？
THEARETHUSA。Nothere。
THECOMMISSARY。Why？
THEARETHUSA。Ihaveleftthembehindinmyvalise。
THECOMMISSARY。Youknow，however，thatitisforbiddentocirculatewithoutpapers？
THEARETHUSA。Pardonme:Iamconvincedofthecontrary。IamhereonmyrightsasanEnglishsubjectbyinternationaltreaty。
THECOMMISSARY(WITHSCORN)。YoucallyourselfanEnglishman？
THEARETHUSA。Ido。
THECOMMISSARY。Humph-Whatisyourtrade？
THEARETHUSA。IamaScotchadvocate。
THECOMMISSARY(WITHSINGULARANNOYANCE)。AScotchadvocate!Doyouthenpretendtosupportyourselfbythatinthisdepartment？
TheArethusamodestlydisclaimedthepretension。TheCommissaryhadscoredapoint。
THECOMMISSARY。Why，then，doyoutravel？
THEARETHUSA。Itravelforpleasure。
THECOMMISSARY(POINTINGTOTHEKNAPSACK，ANDWITHSUBLIME
INCREDULITY)。AVECCA？VOYEZ-VOUS，JESUISUNHOMMEINTELLIGENT!
(Withthat？Lookhere，Iamapersonofintelligence!)
Theculpritremainingsilentunderthishomethrust，theCommissaryrelishedhistriumphforawhile，andthendemanded(likethepostman，butwithwhatdifferentexpectations!)toseethecontentsoftheknapsack。AndheretheArethusa，notyetsufficientlyawaketohisposition，fellintoagravemistake。TherewaslittleornofurnitureintheroomexcepttheCommissary\'schairandtable；andtofacilitatematters，theArethusa(withalltheinnocenceonearth)leanttheknapsackonacornerofthebed。TheCommissaryfairlyboundedfromhisseat；hisfaceandneckflushedpastpurple，almostintoblue；andhescreamedtolaythedesecratingobjectonthefloor。
Theknapsackprovedtocontainachangeofshirts，ofshoes，ofsocks，andoflinentrousers，asmalldressing-case，apieceofsoapinoneoftheshoes，twovolumesoftheCOLLECTIONJANNET
letteredPOESIESDECHARLESD\'ORLEANS，amap，andaversionbookcontainingdiversnotesinproseandtheremarkableEnglishroundelsofthevoyager，stilltothisdayunpublished:theCommissaryofChatillonistheonlylivingmanwhohasclappedaneyeontheseartistictrifles。Heturnedtheassortmentoverwithacontumeliousfinger；itwasplainfromhisdaintinessthatheregardedtheArethusaandallhisbelongingsastheverytempleofinfection。Stilltherewasnothingsuspiciousaboutthemap，nothingreallycriminalexcepttheroundels；asforCharlesofOrleans，totheignorantmindoftheprisoner，heseemedasgoodasacertificate；anditwassupposedthefarcewasnearlyover。
Theinquisitorresumedhisseat。
THECOMMISSARY(AFTERAPAUSE)。EHBIEN，JEVAISVOUSDIRECEQUE
VOUSETES。VOUSETESALLEMANDETVOUSVENEZCHANTERALAFOIRE。
(Well，then，Iwilltellyouwhatyouare。YouareaGermanandhavecometosingatthefair。)
THEARETHUSA。Wouldyouliketohearmesing？IbelieveIcouldconvinceyouofthecontrary。
THECOMMISSARY。PASDEPLAISANTERIE，MONSIEUR!
THEARETHUSA。Well，sir，obligemeatleastbylookingatthisbook。Here，Iopenitwithmyeyesshut。Readoneofthesesongs-readthisone-andtellme，youwhoareamanofintelligence，ifitwouldbepossibletosingitatafair？