第5章

Butofthisvictoryitmustbesaiditwasowingtothehaughty,rash,andinsolentordersgivenbytheKingofFrancetohisadmiral,viz。,tofighttheconfederatefleetwhereverhefoundthem,withoutleavingroomforhimtouseduecautionifhefoundthemtoostrong,whichprideofFrancewasdoubtlessafateuponthem,andgaveacheapvictorytotheconfederates,theFrenchcomingdownrashly,andwiththemostimpoliticbravery,withaboutfive-and-fortysailtoattackbetweenseventyandeightysail,bywhichmeanstheymettheirruin。Whereas,hadtheirownfleetbeenjoined,itmighthavecostmorebloodtohavemasteredthemifithadbeendoneatall。

Thesituationofthishouseislow,andontheedgeofthefencountry,butthebuildingisveryfine,theavenuesnoble,andthegardensperfectlyfinished。Theapartmentsalsoarerich,andI

seenothingwantingbutafamilyandheirstosustainthegloryandinheritanceoftheillustriousancestorwhoraisedit-SEDCARET

PEDIBUS;thesearewanting。

BeingcometoNewmarketinthemonthofOctober,Ihadtheopportunitytoseethehorseracesandagreatconcourseofthenobilityandgentry,aswellfromLondonasfromallpartsofEngland,buttheywereallsointent,soeager,sobusyuponthesharpingpartofthesport-theirwagersandbets-thattometheyseemedjustassomanyhorse-coursersinSmithfield,descending(thegreatestofthem)fromtheirhighdignityandqualitytopickingoneanother\'spockets,andbitingoneanotherasmuchaspossible,andthatwithsucheagernessasthatitmightbesaidtheyactedwithoutrespecttofaith,honour,orgoodmanners。

TherewasMr。Framptontheoldest,and,assomesay,thecunningestjockeyinEngland;onedayhelostonethousandguineas,thenexthewontwothousand;andsoalternatelyhemadeaslightofthrowingawayfivehundredoronethousandpoundsatatimeasothermendooftheirpocket-money,andasperfectlycalm,cheerful,andunconcernedwhenhehadlostonethousandpoundsaswhenhehadwonit。OntheothersidetherewasSirRFagg,ofSussex,ofwhomfamesayshehasthemostinhimandtheleasttoshowforit(relatingtojockeyship)ofanymanthere,yetheoftencarriedtheprize。Hishorses,theysaid,wereallcheats,howhonestsoevertheirmasterwas,forhescarceeverproducedahorsebuthelookedlikewhathewasnot,andwaswhatnobodycouldexpecthimtobe。Ifhewasaslightasthewind,andcouldflylikeameteor,hewassuretolookasclumsy,andasdirty,andasmuchlikeacart-horseasallthecunningofhismasterandthegroomscouldmakehim,andjustinthismannerhebeatsomeofthegreatestgamestersinthefield。

IwassosickofthejockeyingpartthatIleftthecrowdaboutthepostsandpleasedmyselfwithobservingthehorses:howthecreaturesyieldedtoalltheartsandmanagementsoftheirmasters;

howtheytooktheirairingsinsport,andplayedwiththedailyheatswhichtheyranoverthecoursebeforethegrandday。Buthow,asknowingthedifferenceequallywiththeirriders,wouldtheyexerttheirutmoststrengthatthetimeoftheraceitself!

Andthattosuchanextremitythatoneortwoofthemdiedinthestablewhentheycametoberubbedafterthefirstheat。

HereIfanciedmyselfintheCircusMaximusatRomeseeingtheancientgamesandtheracingsofthechariotsandhorsemen,andinthiswarmthofmyimaginationIpleasedanddivertedmyselfmoreandinamorenoblemannerthanIcouldpossiblydointhecrowdsofgentlemenattheweighingandstarting-postsandattheircomingin,orattheirmeetingsatthecoffee-housesandgaming-tablesaftertheraceswereover,wheretherewaslittleornothingtobeseenbutwhatwasthesubjectofjustreproachtothemandreprooffromeverywisemanthatlookeduponthem。

N。B-Praytakeitwithyou,asyougo,youseenoladiesatNewmarket,exceptafewoftheneighbouringgentlemen\'sfamilies,whocomeintheircoachesonanyparticulardaytoseearace,andsogohomeagaindirectly。

AsIwaspleasingmyselfwithwhatwastobeseenhere,Iwentintheintervalsofthesporttoseethefineseatsofthegentlemenintheneighbouringcounty,forthispartofSuffolk,beinganopenchampaigncountryandahealthyair,isformedforpleasureandallkindsofcountrydiversion,Nature,asitwere,invitingthegentlementovisitherwhereshewasfullypreparedtoreceivethem,inconformitytowhichkindsummonstheycame,forthecountryis,asitwere,coveredwithfinepalacesofthenobilityandpleasantseatsofthegentlemen。

TheEarlofOrford\'shouseIhavementionedalready;thenextisEustonHall,theseatoftheDukeofGrafton。ItliesintheopencountrytowardsthesideofNorfolk,notfarfromThetford,aplacecapableofallthatispleasantanddelightfulinNature,andimprovedbyarttoeveryextremethatNatureisabletoproduce。

FromthenceIwenttoRushbrook,formerlytheseatofthenoblefamilyofJermyns,latelyLordDover,andnowofthehouseofDavers。HereNature,forthetimeIwasthere,droopedandveiledallthebeautiesofwhichsheonceboasted,thefamilybeingintearsandthehouseshutup,SirRobertDavers,theheadthereof,andknightoftheshireforthecountyofSuffolk,andwhohadmarriedtheeldestdaughterofthelateLordDover,beingjustdead,andthecorpselyingthereinitsfuneralformofceremony,notyetburied。Yetalllookedlovelyintheirsorrow,andanumerousissuepromisingandgrownupintimatedthatthefamilyofDaverswouldstillflourish,andthatthebeautiesofRushbrook,themansionofthefamily,werenotformedwithsomuchartinvainortodiewiththepresentpossessor。

AfterthiswesawBrently,theseatoftheEarlofDysert,andtheancientpalaceofmyLordCornwallis,withseveralothersofexquisitesituation,andadornedwiththebeautiesbothofartandNature,sothatIthinkanytravellerfromabroad,whowoulddesiretoseehowtheEnglishgentrylive,andwhatpleasurestheyenjoy,shouldcomeintoSuffolkandCambridgeshire,andtakebutalightcircuitamongthecountryseatsofthegentlemenonthissideonly,andtheywouldbesoonconvincedthatnotFrance,no,notItalyitself,canoutdotheminproportiontotheclimatetheylivedin。

IhadstillthecountyofCambridgetovisittocompletethistouroftheeasternpartofEngland,andofthatIcomenowtospeak。

WeenterCambridgeshireoutofSuffolk,withalltheadvantageintheworld;thecountybeginninguponthosepleasantandagreeableplainscalledNewmarketHeath,wherepassingtheDevil\'sDitch,whichhasnothingworthnoticebutitsname,andthatbutfabuloustoo,fromthehillscalledGogmagog,weseearichandpleasantvalewestward,coveredwithcorn-fields,gentlemen\'sseats,villages,andatadistance,tocrownalltherest,thatancientandtrulyfamoustownanduniversityofCambridge,capitalofthecounty,andreceivingitsnamefrom,ifnot,assomesay,givingnametoit;forifitbetruethatthetowntakesitsnameofCambridgefromitsbridgeovertheriverCam,thencertainlytheshireorcounty,uponthedivisionofEnglandintocounties,haditsnamefromthetown,andCambridgeshiresignifiesnomoreorlessthanthecountyofwhichCambridgeisthecapitaltown。

Asmybusinessisnottolayoutthegeographicalsituationofplaces,Isaynothingofthebuttingsandboundingsofthiscounty。

Itliesontheedgeofthegreatlevel,calledbythepeopleheretheFenCountry;andgreatpart,ifnotall,theIsleofElyliesinthiscountyandNorfolk。TherestofCambridgeshireisalmostwhollyacorncountry,andofthatcornfivepartsinsixofalltheysowisbarley,whichisgenerallysoldtoWareandRoyston,andothergreatmaltingtownsinHertfordshire,andisthefundfromwhencethatvastquantityofmalt,calledHertfordshiremalt,ismade,whichisesteemedthebestinEngland。AsEssex,Suffolk,andNorfolkaretakenupinmanufactures,andfamedforindustry,thiscountyhasnomanufactureatall;norarethepoor,exceptthehusbandmen,famedforanythingsomuchasidlenessandsloth,totheirscandalbeitspoken。WhatthereasonofitisIknownot。

ItisscarcepossibletotalkofanythinginCambridgeshirebutCambridgeitself;whetheritbethatthecountyhassolittleworthspeakingofinit,or,thatthetownhassomuch,thatIleavetoothers;however,asIammakingmodernobservations,notwritinghistory,Ishalllookintothecounty,aswellasintothecolleges,forwhatIhavetosay。

AsIsaid,IfirsthadaviewofCambridgefromGogmagoghills;I

amtoaddthatthereappearsonthemountainthatgoesbythisname,anancientcamporfortification,thatliesonthetopofthehill,withadouble,orrathertreble,rampartandditch,whichmostofourwriterssaywasneitherRomannorSaxon,butBritish。

IamtoaddthatKingJamesII。causedaspaciousstabletobebuiltintheareaofthiscampforhisrunninghomes,andmadeoldMr。Frampton,whomImentionedabove,masterorinspectorofthem。

Thestablesremainstillthere,thoughtheyarenotoftenmadeuseof。AswedescendedwestwardwesawtheFencountryonourright,almostallcoveredwithwaterlikeasea,theMichaelmasrainshavingbeenverygreatthatyear,theyhadsentdowngreatfloodsofwaterfromtheuplandcountries,andthosefensbeing,asmaybeveryproperlysaid,thesinkofnolessthanthirteencounties-

thatistosay,thatallthewater,ormostpartofthewater,ofthirteencountiesfallsintothem;theyareoftenthusoverflowed。

Theriverswhichthusemptythemselvesintothesefens,andwhichthuscarryoffthewater,aretheCamorGrant,theGreatOuseandLittleOuse,theNene,theWelland,andtheriverwhichrunsfromBurytoMildenHall。Thecountieswhichtheseriversdrain,asabove,areasfollows:-

Lincoln,Warwick,Norfolk,*Cambridge,Oxford,Suffolk,*Huntingdon,Leicester,Essex,*Bedford,*NorthamptonBuckingham,*Rutland。

Thosemarkedwith(*)emptyalltheirwatersthisway,therestbutinpart。

Inaword,allthewaterofthemiddlepartofEnglandwhichdoesnotrunintotheThamesortheTrent,comesdownintothesefens。

Inthesefensareabundanceofthoseadmirablepiecesofartcalleddecoysthatistosay,placessoadaptedfortheharbourandshelterofwildfowl,andthenfurnishedwithabreedofthosetheycalldecoyducks,whoaretaughttoallureandenticetheirkindtotheplacestheybelongto,thatitisincrediblewhatquantitiesofwildfowlofallsorts,duck,mallard,teal,widgeon,&c。,theytakeinthosedecoyseveryweekduringtheseason;itmay,indeed,beguessedatalittlebythis,thatthereisadecoynotfarfromElywhichpaystothelandlord,SirThomasHare,500poundsayearrent,besidesthechargeofmaintainingagreatnumberofservantsforthemanagement;andfromwhichdecoyalone,theyassuredmeatSt。Ives(atownontheOuse,wherethefowltheytookwasalwaysbroughttobesenttoLondon)thattheygenerallysentupthreethousandcoupleaweek。

TherearemoreoftheseaboutPeterborough,whosendthefowluptwiceaweekinwaggon-loadsatatime,whosewaggonsbeforethelateActofParliamenttoregulatecarriersIhaveseendrawnbytenandtwelvehorsesa-piece,theywereladensoheavy。

Asthesefensappearcoveredwithwater,soIobserved,too,thattheygenerallyatthislatterpartoftheyearappearalsocoveredwithfogs,sothatwhenthedownsandhighergroundsoftheadjacentcountryweregildedwiththebeamsofthesun,theIsleofElylookedasifwrappedupinblankets,andnothingtobeseenbutnowandthenthelanternorcupolaofElyMinster。

Onecouldhardlyseethisfromthehillsandnotpitythemanythousandsoffamiliesthatwereboundtoorconfinedinthosefogs,andhadnootherbreathtodrawthanwhatmustbemixedwiththosevapours,andthatsteamwhichsouniversallyoverspreadsthecountry。Butnotwithstandingthis,thepeople,especiallythosethatareusedtoit,liveunconcerned,andashealthyasotherfolks,exceptnowandthenanague,whichtheymakelightof,andtherearegreatnumbersofveryancientpeopleamongthem。

InowdrawneartoCambridge,towhichIfancyIlookasifIwasafraidtocome,havingmadesomanycircumlocutionsbeforehand;butImustyetmakeanotherdigressionbeforeIenterthetown(forinmyway,andasIcameinfromNewmarket,aboutthebeginningofSeptember),Icannotomit,thatIcamenecessarilythroughStourbridgeFair,whichwastheninitsheight。

Ifitisadiversionworthyabooktotreatoftrifles,suchasthegaietyofBuryFair,itcannotbeveryunpleasant,especiallytothetradingpartoftheworld,tosaysomethingofthisfair,whichisnotonlythegreatestinthewholenation,butintheworld;

nor,ifImaybelievethosewhohaveseenthemall,isthefairatLeipziginSaxony,themartatFrankfort-on-the-Main,orthefairsatNuremberg,orAugsburg,anywaytocomparetothisfairatStourbridge。

Itiskeptinalargecorn-field,nearCasterton,extendingfromthesideoftheriverCam,towardstheroad,forabouthalfamilesquare。

Ifthehusbandmenwhorenttheland,donotgettheircornoffbeforeacertaindayinAugust,thefair-keepersmaytrampleitunderfootandspoilittobuildtheirbooths,ortents,forallthefairiskeptintentsandbooths。Ontheotherhand,tobalancethatseverity,ifthefair-keepershavenotdonetheirbusinessofthefair,andremovedandclearedthefieldbyanothercertaindayinSeptember,theploughmenmaycomeinagain,withploughandcart,andoverthrowall,andtrampleintothedirt;andasforthefilth,dung,straw,etc。necessarilyleftbythefair-

keepers,thequantityofwhichisverygreat,itisthefarmers\'

fees,andmakesthemfullamendsforthetrampling,riding,andcartingupon,andhardeningtheground。

Itisimpossibletodescribeallthepartsandcircumstancesofthisfairexactly;theshopsareplacedinrowslikestreets,whereofoneiscalledCheapside;andhere,asinseveralotherstreets,areallsortsoftrades,whosellbyretail,andwhocomeprincipallyfromLondonwiththeirgoods;scarceanytradesareomitted-goldsmiths,toyshops,brasiers,turners,milliners,haberdashers,hatters,mercers,drapers,pewterers,china-

warehouses,andinawordalltradesthatcanbenamedinLondon;

withcoffee-houses,taverns,brandy-shops,andeating-houses,innumerable,andallintents,andbooths,asabove。

Thisgreatstreetreachesfromtheroad,whichasIsaidgoesfromCambridgetoNewmarket,turningshortoutofittotherighttowardstheriver,andholdsinalinenearhalfamilequitedowntotheriver-side:inanotherstreetparallelwiththeroadarelikerowsofbooths,butlarger,andmoreintermingledwithwholesaledealers;andoneside,passingoutofthislaststreettothelefthand,isaformalgreatsquare,formedbythelargestbooths,builtinthatform,andwhichtheycalltheDuddery;whencethenameisderived,andwhatitssignificationis,Icouldneveryetlearn,thoughImadeallpossiblesearchintoit。Theareaofthissquareisabout80to100yards,wherethedealershaveroombeforeeveryboothtotakedown,andopentheirpacks,andtobringinwaggonstoloadandunload。

Thisplaceisseparated,andpeculiartothewholesaledealersinthewoollenmanufacture。Heretheboothsortentsareofavastextent,havedifferentapartments,andthequantitiesofgoodstheybringaresogreat,thattheinsidesofthemlooklikeanotherBlackwellHall,beingasvastwarehousespiledupwithgoodstothetop。InthisDuddery,asIhavebeeninformed,therehavebeensoldonehundredthousandpoundsworthofwoollenmanufacturesinlessthanaweek\'stime,besidestheprodigioustradecarriedonhere,bywholesalemen,fromLondon,andallpartsofEngland,whotransacttheirbusinesswhollyintheirpocket-books,andmeetingtheirchapmenfromallparts,makeuptheiraccounts,receivemoneychieflyinbills,andtakeorders:Thesetheysayexceedbyfarthesalesofgoodsactuallybroughttothefair,anddeliveredinkind;

itbeingfrequentfortheLondonwholesalementocarrybackordersfromtheirdealersfortenthousandpounds\'worthofgoodsaman,andsomemuchmore。Thisespeciallyrespectsthosepeople,whodealinheavygoods,aswholesalegrocers,salters,brasiers,iron-

merchants,wine-merchants,andthelike;butdoesnotexcludethedealersinwoollenmanufactures,andespeciallyinmercerygoodsofallsorts,thedealersinwhichgenerallymanagetheirbusinessinthismanner。

HereareclothiersfromHalifax,Leeds,WakefieldandHuddersfieldinYorkshire,andfromRochdale,Bury,etc。,inLancashire,withvastquantitiesofYorkshirecloths,kerseys,pennistons,cottons,etc。,withallsortsofManchesterware,fustiains,andthingsmadeofcottonwool;ofwhichthequantityissogreat,thattheytoldmetherewerenearathousandhorse-packsofsuchgoodsfromthatsideofthecountry,andthesetookupasideandhalfoftheDudderyatleast;alsoapartofastreetofboothsweretakenupwithupholsterer\'sware,suchastickings,sackings,kidderminsterstuffs,blankets,rugs,quilts,etc。

IntheDudderyIsawonewarehouse,orboothwithsixapartmentsinit,allbelongingtoadealerinNorwichstuffsonly,andwho,theysaid,hadthereabovetwentythousandpoundsvalueinthosegoods,andnoother。

Westerngoodshadtheirshareherealso,andseveralboothswerefilledasfullwithserges,duroys,druggets,shalloons,cantaloons,Devonshirekerseys,etc。,fromExeter,Taunton,Bristol,andotherpartswest,andsomefromLondonalso。

Butallthisisstilloutdoneatleastinshow,bytwoarticles,whicharethepeculiarsofthisfair,anddonotbegintilltheotherpartofthefair,thatistosayforthewoollenmanufacturebeginstodrawtoaclose。Thesearethewoolandthehops;asforthehops,thereisscarceanypricefixedforhopsinEngland,tilltheyknowhowtheysellatStourbridgefair;thequantitythatappearsinthefairisindeedprodigious,andthey,asitwere,possessalargepartofthefieldonwhichthefairiskepttothemselves;theyarebroughtdirectlyfromChelmsfordinEssex,fromCanterburyandMaidstoneinKent,andfromFarnhaminSurrey,besideswhatarebroughtfromLondon,thegrowthofthoseandotherplaces。

Enquiringwhythisfairshouldbethus,ofallotherplacesinEngland,thecentreofthattrade;andsogreataquantityofsobulkyacommoditybecarriedthithersofar;Iwasansweredbyonethoroughlyacquaintedwiththatmatterthus:thehops,saidhe,forthispartofEngland,growprincipallyinthetwocountiesofSurreyandKent,withanexceptiononlytothetownofChelmsfordinEssex,andthereareveryfewplantedanywhereelse。

ThereareindeedinthewestofEnglandsomequantitiesgrowing:asatWilton,nearSalisbury;atHerefordandBroomsgrove,nearWales,andthelike;butthequantityisinconsiderable,andtheplacesremote,sothatnoneofthemcometoLondon。

AstothenorthofEngland,theyformerlyusedbutfewhopsthere,theirdrinkbeingchieflypalesmoothale,whichrequirednohops,andconsequentlytheyplantednohopsinallthatpartofEngland,northoftheTrent;nordidIeverseeoneacreofhop-groundplantedbeyondTrentinmyobservation;butasforsomeyearspast,theynotonlybrewgreatquantitiesofbeerinthenorth,butalsousehopsinthebrewingtheiralemuchmorethantheydidbefore;

sotheyallcomesouthofTrenttobuytheirhops;andherebeingquantitiesbrought,itisgreatpartoftheirbackcarriageintoYorkshire,andNorthamptonshire,Derbyshire,Lancashire,andallthesecounties;nay,oflate,sincetheUnion,eventoScotlanditself;forImustnotomitherealsotomention,thattheriverGrant,orCam,whichrunsclosebythenorth-westsideofthefairinitswayfromCambridgetoEly,isnavigable,andthatbythismeans,allheavygoodsarebroughteventothefair-field,bywatercarriagefromLondonandotherparts;firsttotheportofLynn,andtheninbargesuptheOuse,fromtheOuseintotheCam,andso,asIsay,totheveryedgeofthefair。

Inlikemannergreatquantitiesofheavygoods,andthehopsamongtherest,aresentfromthefairtoLynnbywater,andshippedtherefortheHumber,toHull,York,etc。,andforNewcastle-upon-

Tyne,andbyNewcastle,eventoScotlanditself。Nowasthereisstillnoplantingofhopsinthenorth,thoughagreatconsumption,andtheconsumptionincreasingdaily,this,saysmyfriend,isonereasonwhyatStourbridgefairthereissogreatademandforthehops。Headded,thatbesidesthis,therewereveryfewhops,ifanyworthnaming,growinginallthecountiesevenonthissideTrent,whichwereabovefortymilesfromLondon;thosecountiesdependingonStourbridgefairfortheirsupply,sothecountiesofSuffolk,Norfolk,Cambridge,Huntingdon,Northampton,Lincoln,Leicester,Rutland,andeventoStafford,Warwick,andWorcestershire,boughtmostifnotalloftheirhopsatStourbridgefair。

Thesearethereasonswhysogreataquantityofhopsareseenatthisfair,asthatitisincredible,considering,too,howremotefromthisfairthegrowthofthemisasabove。

ThisislikewiseatestimonyoftheprodigiousresortofthetradingpeopleofallpartsofEnglandtothisfair;thequantityofhopsthathavebeensoldatoneofthesefairsisdiverselyreported,andsomeaffirmittobesogreat,thatIdarenotcopyafterthem;butwithoutdoubtitisasurprisingaccount,especiallyinacheapyear。

Thenextarticlebroughtthitheriswool,andthisofseveralsorts,butprincipallyfleecewool,outofLincolnshire,wherethelongeststapleisfound;thesheepofthosecountriesbeingofthelargestbreed。

ThebuyersofthiswoolarechieflyindeedthemanufacturersofNorfolkandSuffolkandEssex,anditisaprodigiousquantitytheybuy。

HereIsawwhatIhavenotobservedinanyothercountyofEngland,namely,apocketofwool。Thisseemstobefirstcalledsoinmockery,thispocketbeingsobig,thatitloadsawholewaggon,andreachesbeyondthemostextremepartsofithangingoverbothbeforeandbehind,andtheseordinarilyweighatonortwenty-fivehundredweightofwool,allinonebag。

Thequantityofwoolonly,whichhasbeensoldatthisplaceatonefair,hasbeensaidtoamounttofiftyorsixtythousandpoundsinvalue,somesayagreatdealmore。

Bythesearticlesastrangermaymakesomeguessattheimmensetradecarriedonatthisplace;whatprodigiousquantitiesofgoodsareboughtandsoldhere,andwhataconfluenceofpeopleareseenherefromallpartsofEngland。

ImightgoonheretospeakofseveralothersortsofEnglishmanufactureswhicharebroughthithertobesold;asallsortsofwrought-ironandbrass-warefromBirmingham;edgedtools,knives,etc。,fromSheffield;glasswaresandstockingsfromNottinghamandLeicester;andaninfinitethrongofotherthingsofsmallervalueeverymorning。

Toattendthisfair,andtheprodigiousconfluxofpeoplewhichcometoit,therearesometimesnolessthanfiftyhackneycoacheswhichcomefromLondon,andplynightandmorningtocarrythepeopletoandfromCambridge;fortherethegrossofthepeoplelodge;nay,whichisstillmorestrange,therearewherriesbroughtfromLondononwaggonstoplyuponthelittleriverCam,andtorowpeopleupanddownfromthetown,andfromthefairasoccasionpresents。

Itisnottobewonderedat,ifthetownofCambridgecannotreceive,orentertainthenumbersofpeoplethatcometothisfair;

notCambridgeonly,butallthetownsroundarefull;nay,theverybarnsandstablesareturnedintoinns,andmadeasfitastheycantolodgethemeanersortofpeople:asforthepeopleinthefair,theyalluniversallyeat,drink,andsleepintheirboothsandtents;andthesaidboothsaresointermingledwithtaverns,coffee-houses,drinking-houses,eating-houses,cook-shops,etc。,andallintentstoo;andsomanybutchersandhigglersfromalltheneighbouringcountiescomeintothefaireverymorningwithbeef,mutton,fowls,butter,bread,cheese,eggs,andsuchthings,andgowiththemfromtenttotent,fromdoortodoor,thatthereisnowantofanyprovisionsofanykind,eitherdressedorundressed。

Inaword,thefairislikeawell-fortifiedcity,andthereistheleastdisorderandconfusionIbelieve,thatcanbeseenanywherewithsogreataconcourseofpeople。

Towardsthelatterendofthefair,andwhenthegreathurryofwholesalebusinessbeginstobeover,thegentrycomeinfromallpartsofthecountyround;andthoughtheycomefortheirdiversion,yetitisnotalittlemoneytheylayout,whichgenerallyfallstotheshareoftheretailers,suchastoy-shops,goldsmiths,braziers,ironmongers,turners,milliners,mercers,etc。,andsomeloosecoinstheyreserveforthepuppetshows,drolls,rope-dancers,andsuchlike,ofwhichthereisnowant,thoughnotconsiderableliketherest。Thelastdayofthefairisthehorse-fair,wherethewholeisclosedwithbothhorseandfootraces,todivertthemeanersortofpeopleonly,fornothingconsiderableisofferedofthatkind。Thusendsthewholefair,andinlessthanaweekmore,thereisscarceanysignleftthattherehasbeensuchathingthere,exceptbytheheapsofdungandstrawandotherrubbishwhichisleftbehind,trodintotheearth,andwhichisasgoodasasummer\'sfallowfordungingtheland;andasIhavesaidabove,paysthehusbandmanwellfortheuseofit。

Ishouldhavementionedthathereisacourtofjusticealwaysopen,andheldeverydayinashedbuiltonpurposeinthefair;

thisisforkeepingthepeace,anddecidingcontroversiesinmattersderivingfromthebusinessofthefair。ThemagistratesofthetownofCambridgearejudgesinthiscourt,asbeingintheirjurisdiction,ortheyholdingitbyspecialprivilege:heretheydeterminemattersinasummaryway,asispractisedinthosewecallPyePowderCourtsinotherplaces,orasaCourtofConscience;andtheyhaveafinalauthoritywithoutappeal。

IcomenowtothetownanduniversityofCambridge;Isaythetownanduniversity,forthoughtheyareblendedtogetherinthesituation,andthecolleges,halls,andhousesforliteraturearepromiscuouslyscatteredupanddownamongtheotherparts,andsomeevenamongthemeanestoftheotherbuildings,asMagdaleneCollegeoverthebridgeisinparticular;yettheyareallincorporatedtogetherbythenameoftheuniversity,andaregovernedapartanddistinctfromthetownwhichtheyaresointermixedwith。

Astheirauthorityisdistinctfromthetown,soaretheirprivileges,customs,andgovernment;theychooserepresentatives,ormembersofParliamentforthemselves,andthetowndoesthelikeforthemselves,alsoapart。

Thetownisgovernedbyamayorandaldermen;theuniversitybyachancellor,andvice-chancellor,etc。Thoughtheirdwellingsaremixed,andseemalittleconfused,theirauthorityisnotso;insomecasesthevice-chancellormayconcernhimselfinthetown,asinsearchinghousesforthescholarsatimproperhours,removingscandalouswomen,andthelike。

Butasthecollegesaremany,andthegentlemenentertainedinthemareaverygreatnumber,thetradeofthetownverymuchdependsuponthem,andthetradesmenmayjustlybesaidtogettheirbreadbythecolleges;andthisisthesurestholdtheuniversitymaybesaidtohaveofthetownsmen,andbywhichtheysecurethedependenceofthetownuponthem,andconsequentlytheirsubmission。

Iremembersomeyearsagoabrewer,whobeingveryrichandpopularinthetown,andoneoftheirmagistrates,hadinseveralthingssomuchopposedtheuniversity,andinsultedtheirvice-chancellor,orotherheadsofhouses,thatinshorttheuniversityhavingnootherwaytoexertthemselves,andshowtheirresentment,theymadeabye-lawororderamongthemselves,thatforthefuturetheywouldnottradewithhim;andthatnoneofthecolleges,halls,etc。,wouldtakeanymorebeerofhim;andwhatfollowed?Themanindeedbraveditoutawhile,butwhenhefoundhecouldnotobtainarevocationoftheorder,hewasfaintoleaveoffhisbrewhouse,andifIrememberright,quittedthetown。

ThusIsay,interestgivesthemauthority;andthereareabundanceofreasonswhythetownshouldnotdisobligetheuniversity,astherearesomealsoontheotherhand,whytheuniversityshouldnotdiffertoanyextremitywiththetown;nor,suchistheirprudence,dotheyletanydisputesbetweenthemrunuptoanyextremitiesiftheycanavoidit。Asforsociety;toanymanwhoisaloveroflearning,oroflearnedmen,hereisthemostagreeableunderheaven;noristhereanywantofmirthandgoodcompanyofotherkinds;butitistothehonouroftheuniversitytosay,thatthegovernorssowellunderstandtheiroffice,andthegovernedtheirduty,thathereisverylittleencouragementgiventothoseseminariesofcrime,theassemblies,whicharesomuchboastedofinotherplaces。

Again,asdancing,gaming,intriguingarethethreeprincipalarticleswhichrecommendthoseassemblies;andthatgenerallythetimeforcarryingonaffairsofthiskindisthenight,andsometimesallnight,atimeasunseasonableasscandalous;addtothis,thattheordersoftheuniversityadmitnosuchexcesses;I

thereforesay,asthisisthecase,itistothehonourofthewholebodyoftheuniversitythatnoencouragementisgiventothemhere。

Astotheantiquityoftheuniversityinthistown,theoriginalsandfoundersoftheseveralcolleges,theirrevenues,laws,government,andgovernors,theyaresoeffectuallyandsolargelytreatedofbyotherauthors,andaresoforeigntothefamiliardesignoftheseletters,thatIrefermyreaderstoMr。Camden\'s\"Britannia\"andtheauthorofthe\"AntiquitiesofCambridge,\"andothersuchlearnedwriters,bywhomtheymaybefullyinformed。

ThepresentVice-ChancellorisDr。Snape,formerlyMasterofEatonSchoolnearWindsor,andfamousforhisdisputewith,andevidentadvantageover,thelateBishopofBangorinthetimeofhisgovernment;thedisputebetweentheUniversityandtheMasterofTrinityCollegehasbeenbroughttoaheadsoastoemploythepensofthelearnedonbothsides,butatlastprosecutedinajudicialwaysoastodepriveDr。Bentleyofallhisdignitiesandofficesintheuniversity;butthedoctorflyingtotheroyalprotection,theuniversityisunderawritofmandamus,toshowcausewhytheydonotrestorethedoctoragain,towhichitseemstheydemur,andthatdemurhasnot,thatwehear,beenargued,atleastwhenthesesheetsweresenttothepress。Whatwillbetheissuetimemustshow。

FromCambridgetheroadliesnorth-westontheedgeofthefenstoHuntingdon,whereitjoinsthegreatnorthroad。Onthissideitisallanagreeablecorncountryasabove,adornedwithseveralseatsofgentlemen;butthechiefisthenoblehouse,seat,ormansionofWimpleorWimpleHall,formerlybuiltatavastexpensebythelateEarlofRadnor,adornedwithallthenaturalbeautiesofsituation,andtowhichwasaddedallthemostexquisitecontrivanceswhichthebestheadscouldinventtomakeitartificiallyaswellasnaturallypleasant。

However,thefateoftheRadnorfamilysodirecting,itwasboughtwiththewholeestateaboutitbythelateDukeofNewcastle,inapartitionofwhoseimmenseestateitfelltotheRightHonourabletheLordHarley,sonandheir-apparentofthepresentEarlofOxfordandMortimer,inrightoftheLadyHarrietCavendish,onlydaughterofthesaidDukeofNewcastle,whoismarriedtohislordship,andbroughthimthisestateandmanyother,sufficienttodenominatehertherichestheiressinGreatBritain。

Herehislordshipresides,andhasalreadysorecommendedhimselftothiscountyastobebyagreatmajoritychosenKnightoftheShireforthecountyofCambridge。

FromCambridge,mydesignobligingme,andthedirectroadinpartconcurring,IcamebackthroughthewestpartofthecountyofEssex,andatSaffronWaldenIsawtheruinsoftheoncelargestandmostmagnificentpileinallthispartofEngland-viz。,AudleyEnd-builtby,anddecayingwith,thenobleDukesandEarlsofSuffolk。

AlittlenorthofthispartofthecountryrisestheRiverStour,whichforacourseoffiftymilesormorepartsthetwocountiesofSuffolkandEssex,passingthroughornearHaveril,Clare,Cavendish,Halsted,Sudbury,Bowers,Nayland,Stretford,Dedham,Manningtree,andintotheseaatHarwich,assistingbyitswaterstomakeoneofthebestharboursforshippingthatisinGreatBritain-ImeanOrwellHavenorHarwich,ofwhichIhavespokenlargelyalready。

AswecameonthissidewesawatadistanceBraintreeandBocking,twotowns,large,rich,andpopulous,andmadesooriginallybythebaytrade,ofwhichIhavespokenatlargeatColchester,andwhichflourishesstillamongthem。

ThemanorofBraintreeIfounddescendedbypurchasetothenameofOlmeus,thesonofaLondonmerchantofthesamename,makinggoodwhatIhadobservedbefore,ofthegreatnumberofsuchwhohavepurchasedestatesinthiscounty。

NearthistownisFelsted,asmallplace,butnotedforafreeschoolofanancientfoundation,formanyyearsunderthemastershipofthelateRev。Mr。Lydiat,andbroughtbyhimtothemeridianofitsreputation。Itisnowsupplied,andthatveryworthily,bytheRev。Mr。Hutchins。

NeartothisisthePrioryofLees,adeliciousseatofthelateDukesofManchester,butsoldbythepresentDuketotheDuchessDowagerofBucks,hisGracetheDukeofManchesterremovingtohisyetfinerseatofKimboltoninNorthamptonshire,theancientmansionofthefamily。FromhencekeepingtheLondonRoadIcametoChelmsford,mentionedbefore,andIngerstone,fivemileswest,whichImentionagain,becauseintheparishchurchofthistownaretobeseentheancientmonumentsofthenoblefamilyofPetre,whoseseatandlargeestatelieintheneighbourhood,andwhosewholefamily,byaconstantseriesofbeneficentactionstothepoor,andbountyuponallcharitableoccasions,havegainedanaffectionateesteemthroughallthatpartofthecountrysuchasnoprejudiceofreligioncouldwearout,orperhapsevermay;andI

mustconfess,Ithink,neednot,forgoodandgreatactionscommandourrespect,lettheopinionsofthepersonsbeotherwisewhattheywill。

Fromhencewecrossedthecountrytothegreatforest,calledEppingForest,reachingalmosttoLondon。ThecountryonthatsideofEssexiscalledtheRoodings,Isuppose,becausetherearenolessthantentownsalmosttogether,calledbythenameofRoding,andisfamousforgoodland,goodmalt,anddirtyroads;thelatterindeedinthewinterarescarcepassableforhorseorman。InthemidstofthisweseeChippingOnger,HatfieldBroadOak,Epping,andmanyforesttowns,famedasIhavesaidforhusbandryandgoodmalt,butofnoothernote。OnthesouthsideofthecountyisWalthamAbbey;theruinsoftheabbeyremain,andthoughantiquityisnotmyproperbusiness,IcouldnotbutobservethatKingHarold,slaininthegreatbattleinSussexagainstWilliamtheConqueror,liesburiedhere;hisbodybeingbeggedbyhismother,theConquerorallowedittobecarriedhither;butnomonumentwas,asIcanfind,builtforhim,onlyaflatgravestone,onwhichwasengravenHAROLDINFELIX。

FromhenceIcameovertheforestagain-thatistosay,overthelowerorwesternpartofit,whereitisspangledwithfinevillages,andthesevillagesfilledwithfineseats,mostofthembuiltbythecitizensofLondon,asIobservedbefore,butthelustreofthemseemstobeentirelyswallowedupinthemagnificentpalaceoftheLordCastlemain,whosefather,SirJosiahChild,asitwere,prepareditinhislifeforthedesignofhisson,thoughaltogetherunforeseen,byaddingtotheadvantageofitssituationinnumerablerowsoftrees,plantedincuriousorderforavenuesandvistastothehouse,allleadinguptotheplacewheretheoldhousestood,astoacentre。

Intheplaceadjoining,hislordship,whilehewasyetSirRichardChildonly,andsomeyearsbeforehebeganthefoundationofhisnewhouse,laidoutthemostdelicious,aswellasmostspacious,piecesofgroundforgardensthatistobeseeninallthispartofEngland。Thegreenhouseisanexcellentbuilding,fittoentertainaprince;itisfurnishedwithstovesandartificialplacesforheatfromanapartmentinwhichisabagnioandotherconveniences,whichrenderitbothusefulandpleasant。Andthesegardenshavebeensothejustadmirationoftheworld,thatithasbeenthegeneraldiversionofthecitizenstogoouttoseethem,tillthecrowdsgrewtoogreat,andhislordshipwasobligedtorestrainhisservantsfromshowingthem,exceptononeortwodaysinaweekonly。

Thehouseisbuiltsincethesegardenshavebeenfinished。ThebuildingisallofPortlandstoneinthefront,whichmakesitlookextremelygloriousandmagnificentatadistance,itbeingtheparticularpropertyofthatstone(exceptinthestreetsofLondon,whereitistaintedandtingedwiththesmokeofthecity)togrowwhiterandwhiterthelongeritstandsintheopenair。

Asthefrontofthehouseopenstoalongrowoftrees,reachingtothegreatroadatLeightonstone,sothebackface,orfront(ifthatbeproper),respectsthegardens,and,withaneasydescent,landsyouupontheterrace,fromwhenceisamostbeautifulprospecttotheriver,whichisallformedintocanalsandopeningstoanswertheviewsfromaboveandbeyondtheriver;thewalksandwildernessesgoontosuchadistance,andinsuchamannerupthehill,astheybeforewentdown,thatthesightislostinthewoodsadjoining,anditlooksalllikeoneplantedgardenasfarastheeyecansee。

Ishallcoverasmuchaspossiblethemelancholypartofastorywhichtouchestoosensiblymany,ifnotmost,ofthegreatandflourishingfamiliesinEngland。Pityandmatterofgriefisittothinkthatfamilies,byestateabletoappearinsuchagloriouspostureasthis,shouldeverbevulnerablebysomeanadisasterasthatofstock-jobbing。Butthegeneralinfatuationofthedayisapleaforit,sothatmenarenotnowblamedonthataccount。SouthSeawasageneralpossession,andifmyLordCastlemainwaswoundedbythatarrowshotinthedarkitwasamisfortune。Butitissomuchahappinessthatitwasnotamortalwound,asitwastosomemenwhoonceseemedasmuchoutofthereachofit。Andthatblow,beitwhatitwill,isnotrememberedforjoyoftheescape,forweseethisnoblefamily,byprudenceandmanagement,riseoutofallthatcloud,ifitmaybeallowedsuchaname,andshininginthesamefulllustreasbefore。

Thiscannotbesaidofsomeotherfamiliesinthiscounty,whosefineparksandnew-builtpalacesarefallenunderforfeituresandalienationsbythemisfortunesofthetimesandbytheruinoftheirmasters\'fortunesinthatSouthSeadeluge。

ButIdesiretothrowaveiloverthesethingsastheycomeinmyway;itisenoughthatwewriteuponthem,aswaswrittenuponKingHarold\'stombatWalthamAbbey,INFELIX,andletalltherestsleepamongthingsthatarethefittesttobeforgotten。

FrommyLordCastlemain\'s,houseandtherestofthefinedwellingsonthatsideoftheforest,forthereareseveralverygoodhousesatWanstead,onlythattheyseemallswallowedupinthelustreofhislordship\'spalace,Isay,fromthence,Iwentsouth,towardsthegreatroadoverthatpartoftheforestcalledtheFlats,whereweseeaverybeautifulbutretiredandruralseatofMr。

Lethulier\'s,eldestsonofthelateSirJohnLethulier,ofLusum,inKent,ofwhosefamilyIshallspeakwhenIcomeonthatside。

BythisturnIcamenecessarilyontoStratford,whereIsetout。

Andthushavingfinishedmyfirstcircuit,Iconcludemyfirstletter,andam,Sir,yourmosthumbleandobedientservant。

APPENDIX。

Whoevertravels,asIdo,overEngland,andwritestheaccountofhisobservations,will,asInotedbefore,alwaysleavesomething,alteringorundertakingbysuchagrowingimprovingnationasthis,orsomethingtodiscoverinanationwheresomuchishid,sufficienttoemploythepensofthosethatcomeafterhim,ortoaddbywayofappendixtowhathehasalreadyobserved。

Thisismycasewithrespecttotheparticularswhichfollow:(1)

Sincethesesheetswereinthepress,anoblepalaceofMr。

Walpole\'s,atpresentFirstCommissioneroftheTreasury,Privy-

counsellor,etc。,toKingGeorge,is,asitwere,risenoutoftheruinsoftheancientseatofthefamilyofWalpole,atHoughton,abouteightmilesdistantfromLynn,andonthenorthcoastofNorfolk,nearthesea。

Asthehouseisnotyetfinished,andwhenIpassedbyitwasbutnewlydesigned,itcannotbeexpectedthatIshouldbeabletogiveaparticulardescriptionofwhatitwillbe。Icandolittlemorethanmentionthatitappearsalreadytobeexceedinglymagnificent,andsuitabletothegeniusofthegreatfounder。

Butafriendofmine,wholivesinthatcounty,hassentmethefollowinglines,which,ashesays,aretobeplaceduponthebuilding,whetheronthefriezeofthecornice,orovertheportico,oronwhatpartofthebuilding,ofthatIamnotasyetcertain。Theinscriptionisasfollows,viz。:-

\"H。M。F。

\"FundamenutessemDomusInAgroNataliExtruendae,RobertusilleWalpoleQuemnullanescietPosteritas:

FaxitDues。

\"PostquamMaturusAnnisDominus。

DiuLaetatusfueritabsolutaIncolumemtueanturIncolames。

AdSummamomniumDiemEtnatinatorumetquinascenturabillis。

HicmePosuit。\"

Asecondthingpropertobeaddedhere,bywayofappendix,relatestowhatIhavementionedofthePortofLondon,beingboundedbytheNazeontheEssexshore,andtheNorthForelandontheKentishshore,whichsomepeople,guidedbythepresentusageoftheCustomHouse,maypretendisnotso,toanswersuchobjectors。Thetruestateofthatcasestandsthus:

\"(1)TheclausetakenfromtheActofParliamentestablishingtheextentofthePortofLondon,andpublishedinsomeofthebooksofrates,isthis:

\"\'TopreventallfuturedifferencesanddisputestouchingtheextentandlimitsofthePortofLondon,thesaidportisdeclaredtoextend,andbeaccountedfromthepromontoryorpointcalledtheNorthForelandintheIsleofThanet,andfromthencenorthwardinarightlinetothepointcalledtheNaze,beyondtheGunfleetuponthecoastofEssex,andsocontinuedwestwardthroughouttheriverThames,andtheseveralchannels,streams,andriversfallingintoit,toLondonBridge,savingtheusualandknownrights,liberties,andprivilegesoftheportsofSandwichandIpswich,andeitherofthem,andtheknownmembersthereof,andofthecustomers,comptrollers,searchers,andtheirdeputies,ofandwithinthesaidportsofSandwichandIpswichandtheseveralcreeks,harbours,andhavenstothem,oreitherofthem,respectivelybelonging,withinthecountiesofKentandEssex。\'

\"II。Notwithstandingwhatisabovewritten,thePortofLondon,asinusesincethesaidorder,isunderstoodtoreachnofartherthanGravesendinKentandTilburyPointinEssex,andtheportsofRochester,Milton,andFavershambelongtotheportofSandwich。

\"InlikemannertheportsofHarwich,Colchester,Wivenhoe,Malden,Leigh,etc。,aresaidtobemembersoftheportofIpswich。\"

ThisobservationmaysufficeforwhatisneedfultobesaiduponthesamesubjectwhenImaycometospeakoftheportofSandwichanditsmembersandtheirprivilegeswithrespecttoRochester,Milton,Faversham,etc。,inmycircuitthroughthecountyofKent。