HenextinquiredwhereIwasgoingandwhatIhadhadfordinner；
andthen，withouttheleasttransition，\'C\'ESTBIEN，\'headded，\'comealong。\'Andheandhisson，withoutanotherword，turnedofftothenextchestnut-treebutone，whichtheysettopruning。ThethinghadpassedofmoresimplythanIhoped。Hewasagrave，respectableman；andhisunfriendlyvoicedidnotimplythathethoughthewasspeakingtoacriminal，butmerelytoaninferior。
Iwassoonontheroad，nibblingacakeofchocolateandseriouslyoccupiedwithacaseofconscience。WasItopayformynight\'slodging？Ihadsleptill，thebedwasfulloffleasintheshapeofants，therewasnowaterintheroom，theverydawnhadneglectedtocallmeinthemorning。Imighthavemissedatrain，hadtherebeenanyintheneighbourhoodtocatch。Clearly，Iwasdissatisfiedwithmyentertainment；andIdecidedIshouldnotpayunlessImetabeggar。
Thevalleylookedevenlovelierbymorning；andsoontheroaddescendedtotheleveloftheriver。Here，inaplacewheremanystraightandprosperouschestnutsstoodtogether，makinganaisleuponaswardedterrace，ImademymorningtoiletteinthewateroftheTarn。Itwasmarvellouslyclear，thrillinglycool；thesoap-
sudsdisappearedasifbymagicintheswiftcurrent，andthewhitebouldersgaveoneamodelforcleanliness。TowashinoneofGod\'sriversintheopenairseemstomeasortofcheerfulsolemnityorsemi-paganactofworship。Todabbleamongdishesinabedroommayperhapsmakecleanthebody；buttheimaginationtakesnoshareinsuchacleansing。Iwentonwithalightandpeacefulheart，andsangpsalmstothespiritualearasIadvanced。
Suddenlyupcameanoldwoman，whopoint-blankdemandedalms。
\'Good，\'thoughtI；\'herecomesthewaiterwiththebill。\'
AndIpaidformynight\'slodgingonthespot。Takeithowyouplease，butthiswasthefirstandthelastbeggarthatImetwithduringallmytour。
AsteportwofartherIwasovertakenbyanoldmaninabrownnightcap，clear-eyed，weather-beaten，withafaintexcitedsmile。
Alittlegirlfollowedhim，drivingtwosheepandagoat；butshekeptinourwake，whiletheoldmanwalkedbesidemeandtalkedaboutthemorningandthevalley。Itwasnotmuchpastsix；andforhealthypeoplewhohavesleptenough，thatisanhourofexpansionandofopenandtrustfultalk。
\'CONNAISSEZ-VOUSLESEIGNEUR？\'hesaidatlength。
IaskedhimwhatSeigneurhemeant；butheonlyrepeatedthequestionwithmoreemphasisandalookinhiseyesdenotinghopeandinterest。
\'Ah，\'saidI，pointingupwards，\'Iunderstandyounow。Yes，IknowHim；Heisthebestofacquaintances。\'
Theoldmansaidhewasdelighted。\'Hold，\'headded，strikinghisbosom；\'itmakesmehappyhere。\'TherewereafewwhoknewtheLordinthesevalleys，hewentontotellme；notmany，butafew。
\'Manyarecalled。\'hequoted，\'andfewchosen。\'
\'Myfather，\'saidI，\'itisnoteasytosaywhoknowtheLord；anditisnoneofourbusiness。ProtestantsandCatholics，andeventhosewhoworshipstones，mayknowHimandbeknownbyHim；forHehasmadeall。\'
IdidnotknowIwassogoodapreacher。
TheoldmanassuredmehethoughtasIdid，andrepeatedhisexpressionsofpleasureatmeetingme。\'Wearesofew，\'hesaid。
\'TheycallusMoravianshere；butdownintheDepartmentofGard，wheretherearealsoagoodnumber，theyarecalledDerbists，afteranEnglishpastor。\'
IbegantounderstandthatIwasfiguring，inquestionabletaste，asamemberofsomesecttomeunknown；butIwasmorepleasedwiththepleasureofmycompanionthanembarrassedbymyownequivocalposition。Indeed，Icanseenodishonestyinnotavowingadifference；andespeciallyinthesehighmatters，wherewehaveallasufficientassurancethat，whoevermaybeinthewrong，weourselvesarenotcompletelyintheright。Thetruthismuchtalkedabout；butthisoldmaninabrownnightcapshowedhimselfsosimple，sweet，andfriendly，thatIamnotunwillingtoprofessmyselfhisconvert。Hewas，asamatteroffact，aPlymouthBrother。OfwhatthatinvolvesinthewayofdoctrineIhavenoideanorthetimetoinformmyself；butIknowrightwellthatweareallembarkeduponatroublesomeworld，thechildrenofoneFather，strivinginmanyessentialpointstodoandtobecomethesame。Andalthoughitwassomewhatinamistakethatheshookhandswithmesooftenandshowedhimselfsoreadytoreceivemywords，thatwasamistakeofthetruth-findingsort。Forcharitybeginsblindfold；andonlythroughaseriesofsimilarmisapprehensionsrisesatlengthintoasettledprincipleofloveandpatience，andafirmbeliefinallourfellow-men。IfI
deceivedthisgoodoldman，inthelikemannerIwouldwillinglygoontodeceiveothers。Andifeveratlength，outofourseparateandsadways，weshouldallcometogetherintoonecommonhouse，I
haveahope，towhichIclingdearly，thatmymountainPlymouthBrotherwillhastentoshakehandswithmeagain。
Thus，talkinglikeChristianandFaithfulbytheway，heandIcamedownuponahamletbytheTarn。Itwasbutahumbleplace，calledLaVernede，withlessthanadozenhouses，andaProtestantchapelonaknoll。Herehedwelt；andhere，attheinn，Iorderedmybreakfast。Theinnwaskeptbyanagreeableyoungman，astone-
breakerontheroad，andhissister，aprettyandengaginggirl。
Thevillageschoolmasterdroppedintospeakwiththestranger。
AndthesewereallProtestants-afactwhichpleasedmemorethanIshouldhaveexpected；and，whatpleasedmestillmore，theyseemedalluprightandsimplepeople。ThePlymouthBrotherhungroundmewithasortofyearninginterest，andreturnedatleastthricetomakesureIwasenjoyingmymeal。Hisbehaviourtouchedmedeeplyatthetime，andevennowmovesmeinrecollection。Hefearedtointrude，buthewouldnotwillinglyforegoonemomentofmysociety；andheseemedneverwearyofshakingmebythehand。
Whenalltheresthaddriftedofftotheirday\'swork，Isatfornearhalfanhourwiththeyoungmistressofthehouse，whotalkedpleasantlyoverherseamofthechestnutharvest，andthebeautiesoftheTarn，andoldfamilyaffections，brokenupwhenyoungfolkgofromhome，yetstillsubsisting。Hers，Iamsure，wasasweetnature，withacountryplainnessandmuchdelicacyunderneath；andhewhotakeshertohisheartwilldoubtlessbeafortunateyoungman。
ThevalleybelowLaVernedepleasedmemoreandmoreasIwentforward。Nowthehillsapproachedfromeitherhand，nakedandcrumbling，andwalledintheriverbetweencliffs；andnowthevalleywidenedandbecamegreen。TheroadledmepasttheoldcastleofMiralonasteep；pastabattlementedmonastery，longsincebrokenupandturnedintoachurchandparsonage；andpastaclusterofblackroofs，thevillageofCocures，sittingamongvineyards，andmeadows，andorchardsthickwithredapples，andwhere，alongthehighway，theywereknockingdownwalnutsfromtheroadsidetrees，andgatheringtheminsacksandbaskets。Thehills，howevermuchthevalemightopen，werestilltallandbare，withcliffybattlementsandhereandthereapointedsummit；andtheTarnstillrattledthroughthestoneswithamountainnoise。I
hadbeenled，bybagmenofapicturesqueturnofmind，toexpectahorrificcountryaftertheheartofByron；buttomyScottisheyesitseemedsmilingandplentiful，astheweatherstillgaveanimpressionofhighsummertomyScottishbody；althoughthechestnutswerealreadypickedoutbytheautumn，andthepoplars，thatherebegantominglewiththem，hadturnedintopalegoldagainsttheapproachofwinter。
Therewassomethinginthislandscape，smilingalthoughwild，thatexplainedtomethespiritoftheSouthernCovenanters。Thosewhotooktothehillsforconscience\'sakeinScotlandhadallgloomyandbedevilledthoughts；foroncethattheyreceivedGod\'scomforttheywouldbetwiceengagedwithSatan；buttheCamisardshadonlybrightandsupportingvisions。Theydealtmuchmoreinblood，bothgivenandtaken；yetIfindnoobsessionoftheEvilOneintheirrecords。Withalightconscience，theypursuedtheirlifeintheseroughtimesandcircumstances。ThesoulofSeguier，letusnotforget，waslikeagarden。TheyknewtheywereonGod\'sside，withaknowledgethathasnoparallelamongtheScots；fortheScots，althoughtheymightbecertainofthecause，couldneverrestconfidentoftheperson。
\'Weflew，\'saysoneoldCamisard，\'whenweheardthesoundofpsalm-singing，weflewasifwithwings。Wefeltwithinusananimatingardour，atransportingdesire。Thefeelingcannotbeexpressedinwords。Itisathingthatmusthavebeenexperiencedtobeunderstood。Howeverwearywemightbe，wethoughtnomoreofourweariness，andgrewlightsosoonasthepsalmsfelluponourears。\'
ThevalleyoftheTarnandthepeoplewhomImetatLaVernedenotonlyexplaintomethispassage，butthetwentyyearsofsufferingwhichthose，whoweresostiffandsobloodywhenoncetheybetookthemselvestowar，enduredwiththemeeknessofchildrenandtheconstancyofsaintsandpeasants。
FLORAC
ONabranchoftheTarnstandsFlorac，theseatofasub-
prefecture，withanoldcastle，analleyofplanes，manyquaintstreet-corners，andalivefountainwellingfromthehill。Itisnotable，besides，forhandsomewomen，andasoneofthetwocapitals，Alaisbeingtheother，ofthecountryoftheCamisards。
Thelandlordoftheinntookme，afterIhadeaten，toanadjoiningcafe，whereI，orrathermyjourney，becamethetopicoftheafternoon。Everyonehadsomesuggestionformyguidance；andthesub-prefectorialmapwasfetchedfromthesub-prefectureitself，andmuchthumbedamongcoffee-cupsandglassesofliqueur。MostofthesekindadviserswereProtestant，thoughIobservedthatProtestantandCatholicintermingledinaveryeasymanner；anditsurprisedmetoseewhatalivelymemorystillsubsistedofthereligiouswar。Amongthehillsofthesouth-west，byMauchline，Cumnock，orCarsphairn，inisolatedfarmsorinthemanse，seriousPresbyterianpeoplestillrecallthedaysofthegreatpersecution，andthegravesoflocalmartyrsarestillpiouslyregarded。Butintownsandamongtheso-calledbetterclasses，Ifearthattheseolddoingshavebecomeanidletale。IfyoumetamixedcompanyintheKing\'sArmsatWigton，itisnotlikelythatthetalkwouldrunonCovenanters。Nay，atMuirkirkofGlenluce，Ifoundthebeadle\'swifehadnotsomuchasheardofProphetPeden。ButtheseCevenolswereproudoftheirancestorsinquiteanothersense；thewarwastheirchosentopic；itsexploitsweretheirownpatentofnobility；
andwhereamanoraracehashadbutoneadventure，andthatheroic，wemustexpectandpardonsomeprolixityofreference。
Theytoldmethecountrywasstillfulloflegendshithertouncollected；IheardfromthemaboutCavalier\'sdescendants-notdirectdescendants，beitunderstood，butonlycousinsornephews-
whowerestillprosperouspeopleinthesceneoftheboy-general\'sexploits；andonefarmerhadseenthebonesofoldcombatantsdugupintotheairofanafternooninthenineteenthcentury，inafieldwheretheancestorshadfought，andthegreat-grandchildrenwerepeaceablyditching。
LaterinthedayoneoftheProtestantpastorswassogoodastovisitme:ayoungman，intelligentandpolite，withwhomIpassedanhourortwointalk。Florac，hetoldme，ispartProtestant，partCatholic；andthedifferenceinreligionisusuallydoubledbyadifferenceinpolitics。Youmayjudgeofmysurprise，comingasIdidfromsuchababblingpurgatorialPolandofaplaceasMonastier，whenIlearnedthatthepopulationlivedtogetheronveryquietterms；andtherewasevenanexchangeofhospitalitiesbetweenhouseholdsthusdoublyseparated。BlackCamisardandWhiteCamisard，militiamanandMiqueletanddragoon，ProtestantprophetandCatholiccadetoftheWhiteCross，theyhadallbeensabringandshooting，burning，pillaging，andmurdering，theirheartshotwithindignantpassion；andhere，afterahundredandseventyyears，ProtestantisstillProtestant，CatholicstillCatholic，inmutualtolerationandmildamityoflife。Buttheraceofman，likethatindomitablenaturewhenceitsprang，hasmedicatingvirtuesofitsown；theyearsandseasonsbringvariousharvests；
thesunreturnsaftertherain；andmankindoutlivessecularanimosities，asasinglemanawakensfromthepassionsofaday。
Wejudgeourancestorsfromamoredivineposition；andthedustbeingalittlelaidwithseveralcenturies，wecanseebothsidesadornedwithhumanvirtuesandfightingwithashowofright。
Ihaveneverthoughtiteasytobejust，andfinditdailyevenharderthanIthought。IownImettheseProtestantswithadelightandasenseofcominghome。Iwasaccustomedtospeaktheirlanguage，inanotheranddeepersenseofthewordthanthatwhichdistinguishesbetweenFrenchandEnglish；forthetrueBabelisadivergenceuponmorals。AndhenceIcouldholdmorefreecommunicationwiththeProtestants，andjudgethemmorejustly，thantheCatholics。FatherApollinarismaypairoffwithmymountainPlymouthBrotherastwoguilelessanddevoutoldmen；yetIaskmyselfifIhadasreadyafeelingforthevirtuesoftheTrappist；or，hadIbeenaCatholic，ifIshouldhavefeltsowarmlytothedissenterofLaVernede。WiththefirstIwasontermsofmereforbearance；butwiththeother，althoughonlyonamisunderstandingandbykeepingonselectedpoints，itwasstillpossibletoholdconverseandexchangesomehonestthoughts。Inthisworldofimperfectionwegladlywelcomeevenpartialintimacies。Andifwefindbutonetowhomwecanspeakoutofourheartfreely，withwhomwecanwalkinloveandsimplicitywithoutdissimulation，wehavenogroundofquarrelwiththeworldorGod。
INTHEVALLEYOFTHEMIMENTE
ONTuesday，1stOctober，weleftFloraclateintheafternoon，atireddonkeyandtireddonkey-driver。AlittlewayuptheTarnon，acoveredbridgeofwoodintroducedusintothevalleyoftheMimente。Steeprockyredmountainsoverhungthestream；greatoaksandchestnutsgrewupontheslopesorinstonyterraces；hereandtherewasaredfieldofmilletorafewapple-treesstuddedwithredapples；andtheroadpassedhardbytwoblackhamlets，onewithanoldcastleatoptopleasetheheartofthetourist。
Itwasdifficulthereagaintofindaspotfitformyencampment。
Evenundertheoaksandchestnutsthegroundhadnotonlyaveryrapidslope，butwasheapedwithloosestones；andwheretherewasnotimberthehillsdescendedtothestreaminaredprecipicetuftedwithheather。Thesunhadleftthehighestpeakinfrontofme，andthevalleywasfullofthelowingsoundofherdsmen\'shornsastheyrecalledtheflocksintothestable，whenIspiedabightofmeadowsomewaybelowtheroadwayinanangleoftheriver。
ThitherIdescended，and，tyingModestineprovisionallytoatree，proceededtoinvestigatetheneighbourhood。Agreypearlyeveningshadowfilledtheglen；objectsatalittledistancegrewindistinctandmeltedbafflinglyintoeachother；andthedarknesswasrisingsteadilylikeanexhalation。Iapproachedagreatoakwhichgrewinthemeadow，hardbytheriver\'sbrink；whentomydisgustthevoicesofchildrenfelluponmyear，andIbeheldahouseroundtheangleontheotherbank。Ihadhalfamindtopackandbegoneagain，butthegrowingdarknessmovedmetoremain。I
hadonlytomakenonoiseuntilthenightwasfairlycome，andtrusttothedawntocallmeearlyinthemorning。Butitwashardtobeannoyedbyneighboursinsuchagreathotel。
Ahollowunderneaththeoakwasmybed。BeforeIhadfedModestineandarrangedmysack，threestarswerealreadybrightlyshining，andtheotherswerebeginningdimlytoappear。Islippeddowntotheriver，whichlookedveryblackamongitsrocks，tofillmycan；
anddinedwithagoodappetiteinthedark，forIscrupledtolightalanternwhilesonearahouse。Themoon，whichIhadseenapallidcrescentallafternoon，faintlyilluminatedthesummitofthehills，butnotarayfellintothebottomoftheglenwhereI
waslying。Theoakrosebeforemelikeapillarofdarkness；andoverheadtheheartsomestarsweresetinthefaceofthenight。Nooneknowsthestarswhohasnotslept，astheFrenchhappilyputit，ALABELLEETOILE。Hemayknowalltheirnamesanddistancesandmagnitudes，andyetbeignorantofwhataloneconcernsmankind，-theirsereneandgladsomeinfluenceonthemind。Thegreaterpartofpoetryisaboutthestars；andveryjustly，fortheyarethemselvesthemostclassicalofpoets。Thesesamefar-awayworlds，sprinkledliketapersorshakentogetherlikeadiamonddustuponthesky，hadlookednototherwisetoRolandorCavalier，when，inthewordsofthelatter，theyhad\'noothertentbutthesky，andnootherbedthanmymotherearth。\'
Allnightastrongwindblewupthevalley，andtheacornsfellpatteringovermefromtheoak。Yet，onthisfirstnightofOctober，theairwasasmildasMay，andIsleptwiththefurthrownback。
Iwasmuchdisturbedbythebarkingofadog，ananimalthatIfearmorethananywolf。Adogisvastlybraver，andisbesidessupportedbythesenseofduty。Ifyoukillawolf，youmeetwithencouragementandpraise；butifyoukilladog，thesacredrightsofpropertyandthedomesticaffectionscomeclamouringroundyouforredress。Attheendofafaggingday，thesharpcruelnoteofadog\'sbarkisinitselfakeenannoyance；andtoatramplikemyself，herepresentsthesedentaryandrespectableworldinitsmosthostileform。Thereissomethingoftheclergymanorthelawyeraboutthisengaginganimal；andifhewerenotamenabletostones，theboldestmanwouldshrinkfromtravellingafoot。I
respectdogsmuchinthedomesticcircle；butonthehighway，orsleepingafield，Ibothdetestandfearthem。
Iwaswakenednextmorning(Wednesday，October2nd)bythesamedog-forIknewhisbark-makingachargedownthebank，andthen，seeingmesitup，retreatingagainwithgreatalacrity。Thestarswerenotyetquiteextinguished。Theheavenwasofthatenchantingmildgrey-blueoftheearlymorn。Astillclearlightbegantofall，andthetreesonthehillsidewereoutlinedsharplyagainstthesky。Thewindhadveeredmoretothenorth，andnolongerreachedmeintheglen；butasIwasgoingonwithmypreparations，itdroveawhitecloudveryswiftlyoverthehill-top；andlookingup，Iwassurprisedtoseetheclouddyedwithgold。Inthesehighregionsoftheair，thesunwasalreadyshiningasatnoon。Ifonlythecloudstravelledhighenough，weshouldseethesamethingallnightlong。Foritisalwaysdaylightinthefieldsofspace。
AsIbegantogoupthevalley，adraughtofwindcamedownitoutoftheseatofthesunrise，althoughthecloudscontinuedtorunoverheadinanalmostcontrarydirection。Afewstepsfarther，andIsawawholehillsidegildedwiththesun；andstillalittlebeyond，betweentwopeaks，acentreofdazzlingbrilliancyappearedfloatinginthesky，andIwasoncemorefacetofacewiththebigbonfirethatoccupiesthekernelofoursystem。
Imetbutonehumanbeingthatforenoon，adarkmilitary-lookingwayfarer，whocarriedagame-bagonabaldric；buthemadearemarkthatseemsworthyofrecord。ForwhenIaskedhimifhewereProtestantorCatholic-
\'Oh，\'saidhe，\'Imakenoshameofmyreligion。IamaCatholic。\'
Hemadenoshameofit!Thephraseisapieceofnaturalstatistics；foritisthelanguageofoneinaminority。IthoughtwithasmileofBavileandhisdragoons，andhowyoumayriderough-shodoverareligionforacentury，andleaveitonlythemorelivelyforthefriction。IrelandisstillCatholic；theCevennesstillProtestant。Itisnotabasketfuloflaw-papers，northehoofsandpistol-buttsofaregimentofhorse，thatcanchangeonetittleofaploughman\'sthoughts。Outdoorrusticpeoplehavenotmanyideas，butsuchastheyhavearehardyplants，andthriveflourishinglyinpersecution。Onewhohasgrownalongwhileinthesweatoflaboriousnoons，andunderthestarsatnight，afrequenterofhillsandforests，anoldhonestcountryman，has，intheend，asenseofcommunionwiththepowersoftheuniverse，andamicablerelationstowardshisGod。LikemymountainPlymouthBrother，heknowstheLord。Hisreligiondoesnotreposeuponachoiceoflogic；itisthepoetryoftheman\'sexperience，thephilosophyofthehistoryofhislife。God，likeagreatpower，likeagreatshiningsun，hasappearedtothissimplefellowinthecourseofyears，andbecomethegroundandessenceofhisleastreflections；andyoumaychangecreedsanddogmasbyauthority，orproclaimanewreligionwiththesoundoftrumpets，ifyouwill；buthereisamanwhohashisownthoughts，andwillstubbornlyadheretothemingoodandevil。HeisaCatholic，aProtestant，oraPlymouthBrother，inthesameindefeasiblesensethatamanisnotawoman，orawomannotaman。Forhecouldnotvaryfromhisfaith，unlesshecoulderadicateallmemoryofthepast，and，inastrictandnotaconventionalmeaning，changehismind。
THEHEARTOFTHECOUNTRY
IWASnowdrawingneartoCassagnas，aclusterofblackroofsuponthehillside，inthiswildvalley，amongchestnutgardens，andlookeduponintheclearairbymanyrockypeaks。TheroadalongtheMimenteisyetnew，norhavethemountaineersrecoveredtheirsurprisewhenthefirstcartarrivedatCassagnas。Butalthoughitlaythusapartfromthecurrentofmen\'sbusiness，thishamlethadalreadymadeafigureinthehistoryofFrance。Hardby，incavernsofthemountain，wasoneofthefivearsenalsoftheCamisards；wheretheylaidupclothesandcornandarmsagainstnecessity，forgedbayonetsandsabres，andmadethemselvesgunpowderwithwillowcharcoalandsaltpetreboiledinkettles。Tothesamecaves，amidthismultifariousindustry，thesickandwoundedwerebroughtuptoheal；andtheretheywerevisitedbythetwosurgeons，ChabrierandTavan，andsecretlynursedbywomenoftheneighbourhood。
OfthefivelegionsintowhichtheCamisardsweredivided，itwastheoldestandthemostobscurethathaditsmagazinesbyCassagnas。ThiswasthebandofSpiritSeguier；menwhohadjoinedtheirvoiceswithhisinthe68thPsalmastheymarcheddownbynightonthearchpriestoftheCevennes。Seguier，promotedtoheaven，wassucceededbySalomonCouderc，whomCavaliertreatsinhismemoirsaschaplain-generaltothewholearmyoftheCamisards。
Hewasaprophet；agreatreaderoftheheart，whoadmittedpeopletothesacramentorrefusedthem，by\'intensivelyviewingeveryman\'betweentheeyes；andhadthemostoftheScripturesoffbyrote。Andthiswassurelyhappy；sinceinasurpriseinAugust1703，helosthismule，hisportfolios，andhisBible。Itisonlystrangethattheywerenotsurprisedmoreoftenandmoreeffectually；forthislegionofCassagnaswastrulypatriarchalinitstheoryofwar，andcampedwithoutsentries，leavingthatdutytotheangelsoftheGodforwhomtheyfought。Thisisatoken，notonlyoftheirfaith，butofthetracklesscountrywheretheyharboured。M。deCaladon，takingastrollonefineday，walkedwithoutwarningintotheirmidst，ashemighthavewalkedinto\'aflockofsheepinaplain，\'andfoundsomeasleepandsomeawakeandpsalm-singing。Atraitorhadneedofnorecommendationtoinsinuatehimselfamongtheirranks，beyond\'hisfacultyofsingingpsalms\'；andeventheprophetSalomon\'tookhimintoaparticularfriendship。\'Thus，amongtheirintricatehills，therustictroopsubsisted；andhistorycanattributefewexploitstothembutsacramentsandecstasies。
Peopleofthistoughandsimplestockwillnot，asIhavejustbeensaying，provevariableinreligion；norwilltheygetnearertoapostasythanamereexternalconformitylikethatofNaamaninthehouseofRimmon。WhenLouisXVI。，inthewordsoftheedict，\'convincedbytheuselessnessofacenturyofpersecutions，andratherfromnecessitythansympathy，\'grantedatlastaroyalgraceoftoleration，CassagnaswasstillProtestant；andtoaman，itissotothisday。Thereis，indeed，onefamilythatisnotProtestant，butneitherisitCatholic。ItisthatofaCatholicCUREinrevolt，whohastakentohisbosomaschoolmistress。Andhisconduct，itisworthnoting，isdisapprovedbytheProtestantvillagers。
\'Itisabadideaforaman，\'saidone，\'togobackfromhisengagements。\'
ThevillagerswhomIsawseemedintelligentafteracountrifiedfashion，andwereallplainanddignifiedinmanner。AsaProtestantmyself，Iwaswelllookedupon，andmyacquaintancewithhistorygainedmefurtherrespect。Forwehadsomethingnotunlikeareligiouscontroversyattable，agendarmeandamerchantwithwhomIdinedbeingbothstrangerstotheplace，andCatholics。Theyoungmenofthehousestoodroundandsupportedme；andthewholediscussionwastolerantlyconducted，andsurprisedamanbroughtupamongtheinfinitesimalandcontentiousdifferencesofScotland。
Themerchant，indeed，grewalittlewarm，andwasfarlesspleasedthansomeotherswithmyhistoricalacquirements。Butthegendarmewasmightyeasyoveritall。
\'It\'sabadideaforamantochange，\'saidhe；andtheremarkwasgenerallyapplauded。
ThatwasnottheopinionofthepriestandsoldieratOurLadyoftheSnows。Butthisisadifferentrace；andperhapsthesamegreat-heartednessthatupheldthemtoresist，nowenablesthemtodifferinakindspirit。Forcouragerespectscourage；butwhereafaithhasbeentroddenout，wemaylookforameanandnarrowpopulation。ThetrueworkofBruceandWallacewastheunionofthenations；notthattheyshouldstandapartawhilelonger，skirmishingupontheirborders；butthat，whenthetimecame，theymightunitewithself-respect。
Themerchantwasmuchinterestedinmyjourney，andthoughtitdangeroustosleepafield。
\'Therearethewolves，\'saidhe；\'andthenitisknownyouareanEnglishman。TheEnglishhavealwayslongpurses，anditmightverywellenterintosomeone\'sheadtodealyouanillblowsomenight。\'
ItoldhimIwasnotmuchafraidofsuchaccidents；andatanyratejudgeditunwisetodwelluponalarmsorconsidersmallperilsinthearrangementoflife。Lifeitself，Isubmitted，wasafartooriskybusinessasawholetomakeeachadditionalparticularofdangerworthregard。\'Something，\'saidI，\'mightburstinyourinsideanydayoftheweek，andtherewouldbeanendofyou，ifyouwerelockedintoyourroomwiththreeturnsofthekey。\'
\'CEPENDANT，\'saidhe，\'COUCHERDEHORS!\'
\'God，\'saidI，\'iseverywhere。\'
\'CEPENDANT，COUCHERDEHORS!\'herepeated，andhisvoicewaseloquentofterror。
Hewastheonlyperson，inallmyvoyage，whosawanythinghardyinsosimpleaproceeding；althoughmanyconsidereditsuperfluous。
Onlyone，ontheotherhand，professedmuchdelightintheidea；
andthatwasmyPlymouthBrother，whocriedout，whenItoldhimI
sometimespreferredsleepingunderthestarstoacloseandnoisyale-house，\'NowIseethatyouknowtheLord!\'
ThemerchantaskedmeforoneofmycardsasIwasleaving，forhesaidIshouldbesomethingtotalkofinthefuture，anddesiredmetomakeanoteofhisrequestandreason；adesirewithwhichI
havethuscomplied。
AlittleaftertwoIstruckacrosstheMimente，andtookaruggedpathsouthwardupahillsidecoveredwithloosestonesandtuftsofheather。Atthetop，asisthehabitofthecountry，thepathdisappeared；andIleftmyshe-assmunchingheather，andwentforwardalonetoseekaroad。
Iwasnowontheseparationoftwovastwater-sheds；behindmeallthestreamswereboundfortheGaronneandtheWesternOcean；
beforemewasthebasinoftheRhone。Hence，asfromtheLozere，youcanseeinclearweathertheshiningoftheGulfofLyons；andperhapsfromherethesoldiersofSalomonmayhavewatchedforthetopsailsofSirCloudesleyShovel，andthelong-promisedaidfromEngland。YoumaytakethisridgeaslyingintheheartofthecountryoftheCamisards；fourofthefivelegionscampedallrounditandalmostwithinview-SalomonandJoanitothenorth，CastanetandRolandtothesouth；andwhenJulienhadfinishedhisfamouswork，thedevastationoftheHighCevennes，whichlastedallthroughOctoberandNovember1703，andduringwhichfourhundredandsixtyvillagesandhamletswere，withfireandpickaxe，utterlysubverted，amanstandingonthiseminencewouldhavelookedforthuponasilent，smokeless，anddispeopledland。Timeandman\'sactivityhavenowrepairedtheseruins；Cassagnasisoncemoreroofedandsendingupdomesticsmoke；andinthechestnutgardens，inlowandleafycorners，manyaprosperousfarmerreturns，whentheday\'sworkisdone，tohischildrenandbrighthearth。Andstillitwasperhapsthewildestviewofallmyjourney。Peakuponpeak，chainuponchainofhillsransurgingsouthward，channelledandsculpturedbythewinterstreams，featheredfromheadtofootwithchestnuts，andhereandtherebreakingoutintoacoronalofcliffs。Thesun，whichwasstillfarfromsetting，sentadriftofmistygoldacrossthehill-tops，butthevalleyswerealreadyplungedinaprofoundandquietshadow。
Averyoldshepherd，hobblingonapairofsticks，andwearingablackcapofliberty，asifinhonourofhisnearnesstothegrave，directedmetotheroadforSt。GermaindeCalberte。Therewassomethingsolemnintheisolationofthisinfirmandancientcreature。Wherehedwelt，howhegotuponthishighridge，orhowheproposedtogetdownagain，weremorethanIcouldfancy。NotfaroffuponmyrightwasthefamousPlandeFontMorte，wherePoulwithhisArmeniansabreslasheddowntheCamisardsofSeguier。
This，methought，mightbesomeRipvanWinkleofthewar，whohadlosthiscomrades，fleeingbeforePoul，andwanderedeversinceuponthemountains。ItmightbenewstohimthatCavalierhadsurrendered，orRolandhadfallenfightingwithhisbackagainstanolive。AndwhileIwasthusworkingonmyfancy，Iheardhimhailinginbrokentones，andsawhimwavingmetocomebackwithoneofhistwosticks。Ihadalreadygotsomewaypasthim；but，leavingModestineoncemore，retracedmysteps。
Alas，itwasaverycommonplaceaffair。Theoldgentlemanhadforgottoaskthepedlarwhathesold，andwishedtoremedythisneglect。
Itoldhimsternly，\'Nothing。\'
\'Nothing？\'criedhe。
Irepeated\'Nothing，\'andmadeoff。
It\'soddtothinkof，butperhapsIthusbecameasinexplicabletotheoldmanashehadbeentome。
Theroadlayunderchestnuts，andthoughIsawahamletortwobelowmeinthevale，andmanylonehousesofthechestnutfarmers，itwasaverysolitarymarchallafternoon；andtheeveningbeganearlyunderneaththetrees。ButIheardthevoiceofawomansingingsomesad，old，endlessballadnotfaroff。ItseemedtobeaboutloveandaBELAMOUREUX，herhandsomesweetheart；andI
wishedIcouldhavetakenupthestrainandansweredher，asIwentonuponmyinvisiblewoodlandway，weaving，likePippainthepoem，myownthoughtswithhers。WhatcouldIhavetoldher？Littleenough；andyetalltheheartrequires。Howtheworldgivesandtakesaway，andbringssweetheartsnearonlytoseparatethemagainintodistantandstrangelands；buttoloveisthegreatamuletwhichmakestheworldagarden；and\'hope，whichcomestoall，\'
outwearstheaccidentsoflife，andreacheswithtremuloushandbeyondthegraveanddeath。Easytosay:yea，butalso，byGod\'smercy，botheasyandgratefultobelieve!
Westruckatlastintoawidewhitehigh-roadcarpetedwithnoiselessdust。Thenighthadcome；themoonhadbeenshiningforalongwhileupontheoppositemountain；whenonturningacornermydonkeyandIissuedourselvesintoherlight。IhademptiedoutmybrandyatFlorac，forIcouldbearthestuffnolonger，andreplaceditwithsomegenerousandscentedVolnay；andnowIdranktothemoon\'ssacredmajestyupontheroad。Itwasbutacoupleofmouthfuls；yetIbecamethenceforthunconsciousofmylimbs，andmybloodflowedwithluxury。EvenModestinewasinspiredbythispurifiednocturnalsunshine，andbestirredherlittlehoofsastoaliveliermeasure。Theroadwoundanddescendedswiftlyamongmassesofchestnuts。Hotdustrosefromourfeetandflowedaway。
Ourtwoshadows-minedeformedwiththeknapsack，herscomicallybestriddenbythepack-nowlaybeforeusclearlyoutlinedontheroad，andnow，asweturnedacorner，wentoffintotheghostlydistance，andsailedalongthemountainlikeclouds。Fromtimetotimeawarmwindrustleddownthevalley，andsetallthechestnutsdanglingtheirbunchesoffoliageandfruit；theearwasfilledwithwhisperingmusic，andtheshadowsdancedintune。Andnextmomentthebreezehadgoneby，andinallthevalleynothingmovedexceptourtravellingfeet。Ontheoppositeslope，themonstrousribsandgulliesofthemountainwerefaintlydesignedinthemoonshine；andhighoverhead，insomelonehouse，thereburnedonelightedwindow，onesquaresparkofredinthehugefieldofsadnocturnalcolouring。
Atacertainpoint，asIwentdownward，turningmanyacuteangles，themoondisappearedbehindthehill；andIpursuedmywayingreatdarkness，untilanotherturningshotmewithoutpreparationintoSt。GermaindeCalberte。Theplacewasasleepandsilent，andburiedinopaquenight。Onlyfromasingleopendoor，somelamplightescapedupontheroadtoshowmethatIwascomeamongmen\'shabitations。Thetwolastgossipsoftheevening，stilltalkingbyagardenwall，directedmetotheinn。Thelandladywasgettingherchickstobed；thefirewasalreadyout，andhad，notwithoutgrumbling，toberekindled；halfanhourlater，andImusthavegonesupperlesstoroost。
THELASTDAY
WHENIawoke(Thursday，2ndOctober)，and，hearingagreatflourishingofcocksandchucklingofcontentedhens，betookmetothewindowofthecleanandcomfortableroomwhereIhadsleptthenight，Ilookedforthonasunshinymorninginadeepvaleofchestnutgardens。Itwasstillearly，andthecockcrows，andtheslantinglights，andthelongshadowsencouragedmetobeoutandlookroundme。
St。GermaindeCalberteisagreatparishnineleaguesroundabout。
Attheperiodofthewars，andimmediatelybeforethedevastation，itwasinhabitedbytwohundredandseventy-fivefamilies，ofwhichonlyninewereCatholic；andittooktheCUREseventeenSeptemberdaystogofromhousetohouseonhorsebackforacensus。Buttheplaceitself，althoughcapitalofacanton，isscarcelargerthanahamlet。Itliesterracedacrossasteepslopeinthemidstofmightychestnuts。TheProtestantchapelstandsbelowuponashoulder；inthemidstofthetownisthequaintoldCatholicchurch。
ItwasherethatpoorDuChayla，theChristianmartyr，kepthislibraryandheldacourtofmissionaries；herehehadbuilthistomb，thinkingtolieamongagratefulpopulationwhomhehadredeemedfromerror；andhitheronthemorrowofhisdeaththeybroughtthebody，piercedwithtwo-and-fiftywounds，tobeinterred。Cladinhispriestlyrobes，hewaslaidoutinstateinthechurch。TheCURE，takinghistextfromSecondSamuel，twentiethchapterandtwelfthverse，\'AndAmasawallowedinhisbloodinthehighway，\'preachedarousingsermon，andexhortedhisbrethrentodieeachathispost，liketheirunhappyandillustrioussuperior。InthemidstofthiseloquencetherecameabreezethatSpiritSeguierwasnearathand；andbehold!alltheassemblytooktotheirhorses\'heels，someeast，somewest，andtheCUREhimselfasfarasAlais。
StrangewasthepositionofthislittleCatholicmetropolis，athimblefulofRome，insuchawildandcontraryneighbourhood。Ontheonehand，thelegionofSalomonoverlookeditfromCassagnas；
ontheother，itwascutofffromassistancebythelegionofRolandatMialet。TheCURE，Louvrelenil，althoughhetookapanicatthearch-priest\'sfuneral，andsohurriedlydecampedtoAlais，stoodwellbyhisisolatedpulpit，andthenceutteredfulminationsagainstthecrimesoftheProtestants。Salomonbesiegedthevillageforanhourandahalf，butwasbeatenback。Themilitiamen，onguardbeforetheCURE\'Sdoor，couldbeheard，intheblackhours，singingProtestantpsalmsandholdingfriendlytalkwiththeinsurgents。Andinthemorning，althoughnotashothadbeenfired，therewouldnotbearoundofpowderintheirflasks。
Wherewasitgone？AllhandedovertotheCamisardsforaconsideration。Untrustyguardiansforanisolatedpriest!
ThatthesecontinualstirswereoncebusyinSt。GermaindeCalberte，theimaginationwithdifficultyreceives；allisnowsoquiet，thepulseofhumanlifenowbeatssolowandstillinthishamletofthemountains。Boysfollowedmeagreatwayoff，likeatimidsortoflion-hunters；andpeopleturnedroundtohaveasecondlook，orcameoutoftheirhouses，asIwentby。Mypassagewasthefirstevent，youwouldhavefancied，sincetheCamisards。
Therewasnothingrudeorforwardinthisobservation；itwasbutapleasedandwonderingscrutiny，likethatofoxenorthehumaninfant；yetitweariedmyspirits，andsoondrovemefromthestreet。
Itookrefugeontheterraces，whichareheregreenlycarpetedwithsward，andtriedtoimitatewithapenciltheinimitableattitudesofthechestnutsastheybearuptheircanopyofleaves。Everandagainalittlewindwentby，andthenutsdroppedallaroundme，withalightanddullsound，uponthesward。Thenoisewasasofathinfallofgreathailstones；buttherewentwithitacheerfulhumansentimentofanapproachingharvestandfarmersrejoicingintheirgains。Lookingup，Icouldseethebrownnutpeeringthroughthehusk，whichwasalreadygaping；andbetweenthestemstheeyeembracedanamphitheatreofhill，sunlitandgreenwithleaves。
Ihavenotoftenenjoyedaplacemoredeeply。Imovedinanatmosphereofpleasure，andfeltlightandquietandcontent。Butperhapsitwasnottheplacealonethatsodisposedmyspirit。
Perhapssomeonewasthinkingofmeinanothercountry；orperhapssomethoughtofmyownhadcomeandgoneunnoticed，andyetdonemegood。Forsomethoughts，whichsurewouldbethemostbeautiful，vanishbeforewecanrightlyscantheirfeatures；asthoughagod，travellingbyourgreenhighways，shouldbutopethedoor，giveonesmilinglookintothehouse，andgoagainforever。WasitApollo，orMercury，orLovewithfoldedwings？Whoshallsay？Butwegothelighteraboutourbusiness，andfeelpeaceandpleasureinourhearts。
IdinedwithapairofCatholics。Theyagreedinthecondemnationofayoungman，aCatholic，whohadmarriedaProtestantgirlandgoneovertothereligionofhiswife。AProtestantborntheycouldunderstandandrespect；indeed，theyseemedtobeofthemindofanoldCatholicwoman，whotoldmethatsamedaytherewasnodifferencebetweenthetwosects，savethat\'wrongwasmorewrongfortheCatholic，\'whohadmorelightandguidance；butthisofaman\'sdesertionfilledthemwithcontempt。
\'Itisabadideaforamantochange，\'saidone。
Itmayhavebeenaccidental，butyouseehowthisphrasepursuedme；andformyself，Ibelieveitisthecurrentphilosophyintheseparts。Ihavesomedifficultyinimaginingabetter。It\'snotonlyagreatflightofconfidenceforamantochangehiscreedandgooutofhisfamilyforheaven\'ssake；buttheoddsare-nay，andthehopeis-that，withallthisgreattransitionintheeyesofman，hehasnotchangedhimselfahairbreadthtotheeyesofGod。
Honourtothosewhodoso，forthewrenchissore。Butitarguessomethingnarrow，whetherofstrengthorweakness，whetheroftheprophetorthefool，inthosewhocantakeasufficientinterestinsuchinfinitesimalandhumanoperations，orwhocanquitafriendshipforadoubtfulprocessofthemind。AndIthinkI
shouldnotleavemyoldcreedforanother，changingonlywordsforotherwords；butbysomebravereading，embraceitinspiritandtruth，andfindwrongaswrongformeasforthebestofothercommunionsThephylloxerawasintheneighbourhood；andinsteadofwinewedrankatdinneramoreeconomicaljuiceofthegrape-LaParisienne，theycallit。Itismadebyputtingthefruitwholeintoacaskwithwater；onebyonetheberriesfermentandburst；
whatisdrunkduringthedayissuppliedatnightinwater:so，witheveranotherpitcherfromthewell，andeveranothergrapeexplodingandgivingoutitsstrength，onecaskofParisiennemaylastafamilytillspring。Itis，asthereaderwillanticipate，afeeblebeverage，butverypleasanttothetaste。
Whatwithdinnerandcoffee，itwaslongpastthreebeforeIleftSt。GermaindeCalberte。IwentdownbesidetheGardonofMialet，agreatglaringwatercoursedevoidofwater，andthroughSt。
EtiennedeValleeFrancaise，orValFrancesque，astheyusedtocallit；andtowardseveningbegantoascendthehillofSt。
Pierre。Itwasalongandsteepascent。BehindmeanemptycarriagereturningtoSt。JeanduGardkeptharduponmytracks，andnearthesummitovertookme。Thedriver，liketherestoftheworld，wassureIwasapedlar；but，unlikeothers，hewassureofwhatIhadtosell。Hehadnoticedthebluewoolwhichhungoutofmypackateitherend；andfromthishehaddecided，beyondmypowertoalterhisdecision，thatIdealtinblue-woolcollars，suchasdecoratetheneckoftheFrenchdraught-horse。
IhadhurriedtothetopmostpowersofModestine，forIdearlydesiredtoseetheviewupontheothersidebeforethedayhadfaded。ButitwasnightwhenIreachedthesummit；themoonwasridinghighandclear；andonlyafewgreystreaksoftwilightlingeredinthewest。Ayawningvalley，gulfedinblackness，laylikeaholeincreatednatureatmyfeet；buttheoutlineofthehillswassharpagainstthesky。TherewasMountAigoal，thestrongholdofCastanet。AndCastanet，notonlyasanactiveundertakingleader，deservessomementionamongCamisards；forthereisasprayofroseamonghislaurel；andheshowedhow，eveninapublictragedy，lovewillhaveitsway。Inthehightideofwarhemarried，inhismountaincitadel，ayoungandprettylasscalledMariette。Thereweregreatrejoicings；andthebridegroomreleasedfive-and-twentyprisonersinhonourofthegladevent。
Sevenmonthsafterwards，Mariette，thePrincessoftheCevennes，astheycalledherinderision，fellintothehandsoftheauthorities，whereitwasliketohavegonehardwithher。ButCastanetwasamanofexecution，andlovedhiswife。HefellonValleraugue，andgotaladythereforahostage；andforthefirstandlasttimeinthatwartherewasanexchangeofprisoners。
Theirdaughter，pledgeofsomestarrynightuponMountAigoal，hasleftdescendantstothisday。
ModestineandI-itwasourlastmealtogether-hadasnackuponthetopofSt。Pierre，Ionaheapofstones，shestandingbymeinthemoonlightanddecorouslyeatingbreadoutofmyhand。Thepoorbrutewouldeatmoreheartilyinthismanner；forshehadasortofaffectionforme，whichIwassoontobetray。
ItwasalongdescentuponSt。JeanduGard，andwemetnoonebutacarter，visibleafaroffbytheglintofthemoononhisextinguishedlantern。
Beforeteno\'clockwehadgotinandwereatsupper；fifteenmilesandastiffhillinlittlebeyondsixhours!
FAREWELL，MODESTINE!
ONexamination，onthemorningofOctober3rd，Modestinewaspronouncedunfitfortravel。Shewouldneedatleasttwodays\'
repose，accordingtotheostler；butIwasnoweagertoreachAlaisformyletters；and，beinginacivilisedcountryofstage-coaches，Ideterminedtosellmyladyfriendandbeoffbythediligencethatafternoon。Ouryesterday\'smarch，withthetestimonyofthedriverwhohadpursuedusupthelonghillofSt。Pierre，spreadafavourablenotionofmydonkey\'scapabilities。Intendingpurchaserswereawareofanunrivalledopportunity。BeforetenI
hadanofferoftwenty-fivefrancs；andbeforenoon，afteradesperateengagement，Isoldher，saddleandall，forfive-and-
thirty。Thepecuniarygainisnotobvious，butIhadboughtfreedomintothebargain。
StJeanduGardisalargeplace，andlargelyProtestant。Themaire，aProtestant，askedmetohelphiminasmallmatterwhichisitselfcharacteristicofthecountry。TheyoungwomenoftheCevennesprofitbythecommonreligionandthedifferenceofthelanguagetogolargelyasgovernessesintoEngland；andherewasone，anativeofMialet，strugglingwithEnglishcircularsfromtwodifferentagenciesinLondon。IgavewhathelpIcould；andvolunteeredsomeadvice，whichstruckmeasbeingexcellent。
OnethingmoreInote。Thephylloxerahasravagedthevineyardsinthisneighbourhood；andintheearlymorning，undersomechestnutsbytheriver，Ifoundapartyofmenworkingwithacider-press。I
couldnotatfirstmakeoutwhattheywereafter，andaskedonefellowtoexplain。
\'Makingcider，\'hesaid。\'OUI，C\'ESTCOMMECA。COMMEDANSLE
NORD!\'
Therewasaringofsarcasminhisvoice:thecountrywasgoingtothedevil。
ItwasnotuntilIwasfairlyseatedbythedriver，andrattlingthrougharockyvalleywithdwarfolives，thatIbecameawareofmybereavement。IhadlostModestine。UptothatmomentIhadthoughtIhatedher；butnowshewasgone，\'Andoh!
Thedifferencetome!\'
Fortwelvedayswehadbeenfastcompanions；wehadtravelledupwardsofahundredandtwentymiles，crossedseveralrespectableridges，andjoggedalongwithoursixlegsbymanyarockyandmanyaboggyby-road。Afterthefirstday，althoughsometimesIwashurtanddistantinmanner，Istillkeptmypatience；andasforher，poorsoul!shehadcometoregardmeasagod。Shelovedtoeatoutofmyhand。Shewaspatient，elegantinform，thecolourofanidealmouse，andinimitablysmall。Herfaultswerethoseofherraceandsex；hervirtueswereherown。Farewell，andifforever-
FatherAdamweptwhenhesoldhertome；afterIhadsoldherinmyturn，Iwastemptedtofollowhisexample；andbeingalonewithastage-driverandfourorfiveagreeableyoungmen，Ididnothesitatetoyieldtomyemotion。