第2章

CHAPTERV。

FromtheArrivaloftheFleetatRiodeJaneiro,tillitsDeparturefortheCapeofGoodHope;withsomeRemarksontheBrazils。

BrazilisacountryveryimperfectlyknowninEurope。ThePortugueze,frompoliticalmotives,havebeensparingintheiraccountsofit。

Whenceourdescriptionsofit,inthegeographicalpublicationsinEngland,aredrawn,Iknownot:thattheyaremiserablyerroneousanddefective,iscertain。

ThecityofSt。Sebastianstandsonthewestsideoftheharbour,inalowunhealthysituation,surroundedonallsidesbyhills,whichstopthefreecirculationofair,andsubjectitsinhabitantstointermittentsandputriddiseases。Itisofconsiderableextent:Mr。CookmakesitaslargeasLiverpool;butLiverpool,in1767,whenMr。Cookwrote,wasnottwo—thirdsofitspresentsize。PerhapsitequalsChester,orExeter,intheshareofgrounditoccupies,andisinfinitelymorepopulousthaneitherofthem。

Thestreetsintersecteachotheratrightangles,aretolerablywellbuilt,andexcellentlypaved,aboundingwithshopsofeverykind,inwhichthewantsofastranger,ifmoneyisnotoneofthem,canhardlyremainunsatisfied。

Aboutthecentreofthecity,andatalittledistancefromthebeach,thePalaceoftheViceroystands,along,lowbuilding,nowiseremarkableinitsexteriorappearance;thoughwithinaresomespaciousandhandsomeapartments。Thechurchesandconventsarenumerous,andrichlydecorated;

hardlyanightpasseswithoutsomeofthelatterbeingilluminatedinhonouroftheirpatronsaints,whichhasaverybrillianteffectwhenviewedfromthewater,andwasatfirstmistakenbyusforpublicrejoicings。

AtthecornerofalmosteverystreetstandsalittleimageoftheVirgin,stuckroundwithlightsinanevening,beforewhichpassengersfrequentlystoptoprayandsingveryloudly。Indeed,theheighttowhichreligiouszealiscarriedinthisplace,cannotfailofcreatingastonishmentinastranger。

Thegreatestpartoftheinhabitantsseemtohavenootheroccupation,thanthatofpayingvisitsandgoingtochurch,atwhichtimesyouseethemsallyforthrichlydressed,enchapeaubras,withtheappendagesofabagforthehair,andasmallsword:evenboysofsixyearsoldareseenparadingabout,furnishedwiththeseindispensablerequisites。Exceptwhenattheirdevotions,itisnoteasytogetasightofthewomen,andwhenobtained,thecomparisonsdrawnbyatraveller,latelyarrivedfromEngland,arelittleflatteringtoPortuguezebeauty。Injustice,however,totheladiesofSt。Sebastian,Imustobserve,thatthecustomofthrowingnosegaysatstrangers,forthepurposeofbringingonanassignation,whichDoctorSolander,andanothergentlemanofMr。Cook’sship,metwithwhenhere,wasneverseenbyanyofusinasingleinstance。Weweresodeplorablyunfortunateastowalkeveryeveningbeforetheirwindowsandbalconies,withoutbeinghonouredwithasinglebouquet,thoughnymphsandflowerswereinequalandgreatabundance。

Amongotherpublicbuildings,Ihadalmostforgottomentionanobservatory,whichstandsnearthemiddleofthetown,andistolerablywellfurnishedwithastronomicalinstruments。Duringourstayhere,someSpanishandPortuguesemathematicianswereendeavouringtodeterminetheboundariesoftheterritoriesbelongingtotheirrespectivecrowns。Unhappily,however,forthecauseofscience,thesegentlemanhavenothithertobeenabletocoincideintheiraccounts,sothatverylittleinformationonthishead,tobedependedupon,couldbegained。Howfarpoliticalmotivesmayhavecausedthisdisagreement,Idonotpresumetodecide;thoughitdeservesnotice,thatthePortugueseaccusetheAbbeedelaCaille,whoobservedherebyorderoftheKingofFrance,ofhavinglaiddownthelongitudeofthisplaceforty—fivemilestoomuchtotheeastward。

Untiltheyear1770,alltheflourinthesettlementwasbroughtfromEurope;

butsincethattimetheinhabitantshavemadesorapidaprogressinraisinggrain,astobeabletosupplythemselveswithitabundantly。

TheprincipalcorncountryliesaroundRioGrande,inthelatitudeof32degsouth,wherewheatflourishessoluxuriantly,astoyieldfromseventytoeightybushelsforone。Coffeealso,whichtheyformerlyreceivedfromPortugal,nowgrowsinsuchplentyastoenablethemtoexportconsiderablequantitiesofit。Butthestaplecommodityofthecountryissugar。Thattheyhavenot,however,learnttheartofmakingpalatablerum,theEnglishtroopsinNewSouthWalescanbeartestimony;alargequantity,veryillflavoured,havingbeenboughtandshippedherefortheuseofthegarrisonofPortJackson。

Itwasin1771thatSt。Salvador,whichhadformorethanacenturybeenthecapitalofBrazil,ceasedtobeso;andthattheseatofGovernmentwasremovedtoSt。Sebastian。Thechangetookplaceonaccountofthecolonialwar,atthattimecarriedonbytheCourtsofLisbonandMadrid。

And,indeed,weretheobjectofsecurityalonetodeterminetheseatofGovernment,IknowbutfewplacesbettersituatedinthatrespectthantheoneIamdescribing;thenaturalstrengthofthecountry,joinedtothedifficultieswhichwouldattendanattackonthefortifications,beingsuchastorenderitveryformidable。

ItmaybepresumedthatthePortugueseGovernmentiswellapprizedofthiscircumstanceandofthelittlerisquetheyruninbeingdeprivedofsoimportantapossession,elseitwillnotbeeasytopenetratethereasonswhichinducethemtotreatthetroopswhocomposethegarrisonwithsuchcruelnegligence。Theirregimentswereorderedoutwithapromiseofbeingrelieved,andsentbacktoEuropeattheendofthreeyears,inconformitytowhichtheysettledalltheirdomesticarrangements。

ButthefaithofGovernmenthasbeenbroken,andattheexpirationoftwentyyears,allthatislefttotheremnantoftheseunfortunatemen,istosufferinsubmissivesilence。IwasoneeveningwalkingwithaPortugueseofficer,whenthissubjectwasstarted,andonmytellinghim,thatsuchabreachofpublichonourtoEnglishtroopswouldbecomeasubjectofparliamentaryenquiry,heseizedmyhandwithgreateagerness,\"Ah,Sir!\"

exclaimedhe,\"yoursisafreecountry——we\"!————Hisemotionsspokewhathistonguerefused。

AsIammentioningthearmy,Icannothelpobserving,thatIsawnothingheretoconfirmtheremarkofMr。Cook,thattheinhabitantsoftheplace,whenevertheymeetanofficerofthegarrison,bowtohimwiththegreatestobsequiousness;andbyomittingsuchaceremony,wouldsubjectthemselvestobeknockeddown,thoughtheotherseldomdeignstoreturnthecompliment。

Theinterchangeofcivilitiesisgeneralbetweenthem,andseemsbynomeansextorted。Thepeoplewhocouldsubmittosuchinsolentsuperiority,would,indeed,deservetobetreatedasslaves。

Thepoliceofthecityisverygood。Soldierspatrolethestreetsfrequently,andriotsareseldomheardof。Thedreadfulcustomofstabbing,frommotivesofprivateresentment,isnearlyatanend,sincethechurchhasceasedtoaffordanasylumtomurderers。Inotherrespects,theprogressofimprovementappearsslow,andfetteredbyobstaclesalmostinsurmountable,whosebanefulinfluencewillcontinue,untilamoreenlightenedsystemofpolicyshallbeadopted。Frommorningtonighttheearsofastrangeraregreetedbythetinklingoftheconventbells,andhiseyessalutedbyprocessionsofdevotees,whoseadorationandlevityseemtokeepequalpace,andsucceedeachotherinturns。\"Doyouwanttomakeyoursonsickofsoldiering?ShewhimtheTrainbandsofLondononafield—day。\"

LethimwhowouldwishtogivehissonadistastetoPopery,pointouttohimthesloth,theignorance,andthebigotryofthisplace。

Beingnearlyreadytodepartbythe1stofSeptember,asmanyofficersaspossiblewentonthatdaytothepalacetotakeleaveofhisExcellency,theViceroyoftheBrazils,towhomwehadbeenpreviouslyintroduced;

whoonthis,andeveryotheroccasion,waspleasedtohonouruswiththemostdistinguishedmarksofregardandattention。Somepart,indeed,ofthenumerousindulgenciesweexperiencedduringourstayhere,mustdoubtlessbeattributedtothehighrespectinwhichthePortugueseheldGovernorPhillip,whowasformanyyearsacaptainintheirnavy,andcommandedashipofwaronthisstation:inconsequenceofwhich,manyprivilegeswereextendedtous,veryunusualtobegrantedtostrangers。

Wewereallowedthelibertyofmakingshortexcursionsintothecountry,andontheseoccasions,aswellaswhenwalkinginthecity,themortifyingcustomofhavinganofficerofthegarrisonattendinguswasdispensedwithonourleavingournamesandranks,atthetimeoflanding,withtheadjutantofordersatthepalace。Ithappened,however,sometimes,thatthepresenceofamilitarymanwasnecessarytopreventimpositionintheshopkeepers,whofrequentlymadeapracticeofaskingmorefortheirgoodsthantheworthofthem。Inwhichcaseanofficer,whenappliedto,alwaystoldustheusualpriceofthecommoditywiththegreatestreadiness,andadjustedthetermsofthepurchase。

OnthemorningofthefourthofSeptemberweleftRiodeJaneiro,amplyfurnishedwiththegoodthingswhichitshappysoilandclimesoabundantlyproduce。Thefuturevoyagermaywithsecuritydependonthisplaceforlayinginmanypartsofhisstock。Amongthesemaybeenumeratedsugar,coffee,rum,portwine,rice,tapioca,andtobacco,besidesverybeautifulwoodforthepurposesofhouseholdfurniture。

Poultryisnotremarkablycheap,butmaybeprocuredinanyquantity;

asmayhopsatalowrate。Themarketsarewellsuppliedwithbutcher’smeat,andvegetablesofeverysortaretobeprocuredatapricenexttonothing;

theyamsareparticularlyexcellent。Orangesaboundsomuch,astobesoldforsixpenceahundred;andlimesaretobehadontermsequallymoderate。

Bananas,cocoanuts,andguavas,arecommon;butthefewpineapplesbroughttomarketarenotremarkableeitherforflavour,orcheapness。

Besidestheinducementstolayoutmoneyalreadymentioned,thenaturalistmayaddtohiscollectionbyanalmostendlessvarietyofbeautifulbirdsandcuriousinsects,whicharetobeboughtatareasonableprice,wellpreserved,andneatlyassorted。

Ishallclosemyaccountofthisplacebyinformingstrangers,whomaycomehere,thatthePortuguesereckontheirmoneyinrees,animaginarycoin,twentyofwhichmakeasmallcopperpiececalleda’vintin’,andsixteenoftheselasta’petack’。Everypieceismarkedwiththenumberofreesitisworth,sothatamistakecanhardlyhappen。Englishsilvercoinhaslostitsreputationhere,anddollarswillbefoundpreferabletoanyothermoney。

CHAPTERVI。

ThePassagefromtheBrazilstotheCapeofGoodHope;

withanAccountoftheTransactionsoftheFleetthere。

OurpassagefromRiodeJaneirototheCapeofGoodHopewasequallyprosperouswiththatwhichhadprecededit。Westeeredawaytothesouth—east,andlostsightoftheAmericancoastthedayafterourdeparture。

Fromthistimeuntilthe13thofOctober,whenwemadetheCape,nothingremarkableoccurred,exceptthelossofaconvictintheshipIwasonboard,whounfortunatelyfellintothesea,andperishedinspiteofoureffortstosavehim,bycuttingadriftalifebuoyandhoistingoutaboat。

Duringthepassage,aslightdysenteryprevailedinsomeoftheships,butwasinnoinstancemortal。WewereatfirstinclinedtoimputeittothewaterwetookonboardattheBrazils,butastheeffectwasverypartial,someothercausewasmoreprobablytheoccasionofit。

Atseveno’clockintheeveningofthe13thofOctober,wecastanchorinTableBay,andfoundmanyshipsofdifferentnationsintheharbour。

LittlecanbeaddedtothemanyaccountsalreadypublishedoftheCapeofGoodHope,though,ifanopiniononthesubjectmightberisqued,thedescriptionstheycontainaretooflattering。WhencontrastedwithRiodeJaneiro,itcertainlysuffersinthecomparison。Indeedwearrivedatatimeequallyunfavourableforjudgingoftheproduceofthesoilandthetemperofitscultivators,whohadsufferedconsiderablyfromadearththathadhappenedtheprecedingseason,andcreatedageneralscarcity。

Norwasthechagrinofthesedeprivationslessenedbythenewsdailyarrivingoftheconvulsionsthatshooktherepublic,whichcouldnotfailtomakeanimpressionevenonBatavianphlegm。

Asaconsiderablequantityofflour,andtheprincipalpartofthelivestock,whichwastostoreourintendedsettlement,weremeanttobeprocuredhere,GovernorPhilliplostnotimeinwaitingonMynheerVanGraaffe,theDutchGovernor,torequestpermission(accordingtothecustomoftheplace)topurchaseallthatwestoodinneedof。Howfarthedemandextended,Iknownot,norMynheerVanGraaffe’sreasonsforcomplyingwithitinpartonly。Tothisgentleman’spoliticalsentimentsIconfessmyselfastranger;thoughIshoulddohispolitenessandliberalityathisowntableaninjustice,wereInottotakethispublicopportunityofacknowledgingthem;

norcanIresisttheopportunitywhichpresentsitself,toinformmyreaders,inhonorofM。VanGraaffe’shumanity,thathehasmaderepeatedeffortstorecovertheunfortunateremainsofthecrewoftheGrosvenorIndiaman,whichwaswreckedaboutfiveyearsagoonthecoastofCaffraria。

ThisinformationwasgivenmebyColonelGordon,commandantoftheDutchtroopsattheCape,whoseknowledgeoftheinteriorpartsofthiscountrysurpassesthatofanyotherman。AndIamsorrytosaythattheColoneladded,theseunhappypeoplewereirrecoverablylosttotheworldandtheirfriends,bybeingdetainedamongtheCaffres,themostsavagesetofbrutesonearth。

HisExcellencyresidesattheGovernmenthouse,intheEastIndiaCompany’sgarden。Thislastisofconsiderableextent,andisplantedchieflywithvegetablesfortheDutchIndiamenwhichmayhappentotouchattheport。

Someofthewalksareextremelypleasantfromtheshadetheyafford,andthewholegardenisveryneatlykept。Theregularlinesintersectingeachotheratrightangles,inwhichitislaidout,will,nevertheless,affordbutlittlegratificationtoanEnglishman,whohasbeenusedtocontemplatethenaturalstylewhichdistinguishesthepleasuregroundsofhisowncountry。Attheheadofthecentrewalksstandsamenagerie,onwhich,aswellasthegarden,manypompouseulogiumshavebeenpassed,thoughinmyownjudgment,consideringthelocaladvantagespossessedbytheCompany,itispoorlyfurnishedbothwithanimalsandbirds;atyger,azebra,somefineostriches,acassowary,andthelovelycrown—fowl,areamongthemostremarkable。

Thetableland,whichstandsatthebackofthetown,isablackdrearylookingmountain,apparentlyflatattop,andofmorethanelevenhundredyardsinheight。Thegustsofwindwhichblowfromitareviolenttoanexcess,andhaveaveryunpleasanteffect,byraisingthedustinsuchclouds,astorenderstirringoutofdoorsnexttoimpossible。Norcananyprecautionpreventtheinhabitantsfrombeingannoyedbyit,asmuchwithindoorsaswithout。

Atlengththewished—forday,onwhichthenexteffortforreachingtheplaceofourdestinationwastobemade,appeared。Themorningwascalm,butthelandwindgettingupaboutnoon,onthe12thofNovemberweweighedanchor,andsoonleftfarbehindeverysceneofcivilizationandhumanizedmanners,toexplorearemoteandbarbarousland;andplantinitthosehappyarts,whichaloneconstitutethepre—eminenceanddignityofothercountries。

TheliveanimalswetookonboardonthepublicaccountfromtheCape,forstockingourprojectedcolony,were,twobulls,threecows,threehorses,forty—foursheep,andthirty—twohogs,besidesgoats,andaverylargequantityofpoultryofeverykind。Aconsiderableadditiontothiswasmadebytheprivatestocksoftheofficers,whowere,however,underanecessityofcircumscribingtheiroriginalintentionsonthisheadverymuch,fromtheexcessivedearnessofmanyofthearticles。Itwillreadilybebelieved,thatfewofthemilitaryfounditconvenienttopurchasesheep,whenhaytofeedthemcostssixteenshillingsahundredweight。

Theboarding—housesonshore,towhichstrangershaverecourse,aremorereasonablethanmightbeexpected。Foradollarandahalfperdaywewerewelllodged,andpartookofatabletolerablysuppliedintheFrenchstyle。Shouldatraveller’sstockoftearunshort,itisathousandchancestoonethathewillbeabletoreplenishithereatacheaperratethaninEngland。Hemayprocureplentyofarrackandwhitewine;alsoraisins,anddriedfruitsofothersorts。Ifhedislikestoliveataboarding—house,hewillfindthemarketswellstored,andthepriceofbutcher’smeatandvegetablesfarfromexcessive。

Justbeforethesignalforweighingwasmade,aship,underAmericancolours,enteredtheroad,boundfromBoston,fromwhenceshehadsailedonehundredandfortydays,onatradingvoyagetotheEastIndies。

Inherroute,shehadbeenluckyenoughtopickupseveraloftheinferiorofficersandcrewoftheHarcourtEast—Indiaman,whichshiphadbeenwreckedononeoftheCapedeVerdIslands。Themaster,whoappearedtobeamanofsomeinformation,onbeingtoldthedestinationofourfleet,gaveitashisopinion,thatifareceptioncouldbesecured,emigrationswouldtakeplacetoNewSouthWales,notonlyfromtheoldcontinent,butthenewone,wherethespiritofadventureandthirstfornoveltywereexcessive。

CHAPTERVII。

ThePassagefromtheCapeofGoodHopetoBotanyBay。

Wehadhardlyclearedthelandwhenasouth—eastwindsetin,and,exceptatshortintervals,continuedtoblowuntilthe19thofthemonth;

whenwewereinthelatitudeof37deg40minsouth,andbythetime—keeper,inlongitude11deg30mineast,sothatourdistancefromBotanyBayhadincreasednearlyanhundredleaguessinceleavingtheCape。

Asnoappearanceofachangeinourfavourseemedlikelytotakeplace,GovernorPhillipatthistimesignifiedhisintentionofshiftinghispennantfromtheSiriustothe’Supply’,andproceedingonhisvoyagewithoutwaitingfortherestofthefleet,whichwasformedintwodivisions。Thefirstconsistingofthreetransports,knowntobethebestsailors,wasputunderthecommandofaLieutenantofthenavy;andtheremainingthree,withthevictuallers,leftinchargeofCaptainHunter,ofhisMajesty’sshipSirius。Inthelastdivisionwasthevessel,inwhichtheauthorofthisnarrativeserved。Variouscausespreventedtheseparationfromtakingplaceuntilthe25th,whenseveralsawyers,carpenters,blacksmiths,andothermechanics,wereshiftedfromdifferentshipsintothe’Supply’,inordertofacilitatehisExcellency’sintentionofforwardingthenecessarybuildingstobeerectedatBotanyBay,bythetimetherestofthefleetmightbeexpectedtoarrive。LieutenantGovernorRoss,andtheStaffofthemarinebattalion,alsoremovedfromtheSiriusintotheScarboroughtransport,oneoftheshipsofthefirstdivision,inordertoaffordeveryassistancewhichthepublicservicemightreceive,bytheirbeingearlyonthespotonwhichourfutureoperationsweretobeconducted。

Fromthistimeasuccessionoffairwindsandpleasantweathercorrespondedtooureagerdesires,andonthe7thofJanuary,1788,thelongwishedforshoreofVanDiemengratifiedoursight。Wemadethelandattwoo’clockintheafternoon,theveryhourweexpectedtoseeitfromthelunarobservationsofCaptainHunter,whoseaccuracy,asanastronomer,andconductasanofficer,hadinspireduswithequalgratitudeandadmiration。

Aftersolongaconfinement,onaservicesopeculiarlydisgustingandtroublesome,itcannotbematterofsurprisethatwewereoverjoyedatthenearprospectofachangeofscene。Bysunsetwehadpassedbetweentherocks,whichCaptainFurneauxnamedtheMewstoneandSwilly。

TheformerbearsaverycloseresemblancetothelittleislandnearPlymouth,whenceittookitsname:itslatitudeis43deg48minsouth,longitude146deg25mineastofGreenwich。

Inrunningalongshore,wecastmanyananxiouseyetowardstheland,onwhichsomuchofourfuturedestinydepended。Ourdistance,joinedtothehazinessoftheatmosphere,preventedus,however,frombeingabletodiscovermuch。Withourbestglasseswecouldseenothingbuthillsofamoderateheight,cloathedwithtrees,towhichsomelittlepatchesofwhitesandstonegavetheappearanceofbeingcoveredwithsnow。

Manyfireswereobservedonthehillsintheevening。

AsnopersonintheshipIwasonboardhadbeenonthiscoastbefore,weconsultedalittlechart,publishedbySteele,oftheMinories,London,andfoundit,ingeneral,verycorrect;itwouldbemoreso,werenottheMewstonelaiddownattoogreatadistancefromtheland,andoneobjectmadeoftheEddystoneandSwilly,when,infact,theyaredistinct。