byAnthonyTrollope
Inthehappydayswhenwewereyoung，nodescriptionconveyedtoussocompleteanideaofmysteriousrealityasthatofanOrientalcity。Weknewitwasactuallythere，buthadsuchvaguenotionsofitswaysandlooks！LetanyonerememberhisearlyimpressionsastoBagdadorGrandCairo，andthensayifthiswasnotso。Itwasprobablytakenfromthe\"ArabianNights，\"andthepictureproducedwasoneofstrange，fantastic，luxurioushouses；ofwomenwhowereeitherveryyoungandverybeautiful，orelseveryoldandverycunning；butineitherstateexercisingmuchmoreinfluenceinlifethanwomenintheEastdonow；
ofgood—natured，capricious，thoughsometimestyrannicalmonarchs；andoflifefullofquaintmysteries，quiteunintelligibleineveryphasis，andonthataccountthemorepicturesque。
AndperhapsGrandCairohasthusfilleduswithmorewondereventhanBagdad。WehavebeeninacertainmannerathomeatBagdad，buthaveonlyvisitedGrandCairooccasionally。Iknownoplacewhichwastome，inearlyyears，sodelightfullymysteriousasGrandCairo。
ButtheroutetoIndiaandAustraliahaschangedallthis。MenfromallcountriesgoingtotheEast，nowpassthroughCairo，anditsstreetsandcostumesarenolongerstrangetous。Ithasbecomealsoaresortforinvalids，orratherforthosewhofearthattheymaybecomeinvalidsiftheyremaininacoldclimateduringthewintermonths。
AndthusatCairothereisalwaystobefoundaconsiderablepopulationofFrench，Americans，andofEnglish。Orientallifeisbroughthometous，dreadfullydilutedbywesterncustoms，andthedelightsofthe\"ArabianNights\"areshornofhalftheirvalue。Whenwehaveseenathingitisneversomagnificenttousaswhenitwashalfunknown。
ItisnotmuchthatwedeigntolearnfromtheseOrientals，——wewhogloryinourcivilisation。Wedonotcopytheirsilenceortheirabstemiousness，northatinvariablemindfulnessofhisownpersonaldignitywhichalwaysadherestoaTurkortoanArab。WechatterasmuchatCairoaselsewhere，andeatasmuchanddrinkasmuch，anddressourselvesgenerallyinthesameolduglycostume。Butwedousuallytakeuponourselvestowearredcaps，andwedorideondonkeys。
NorarethevisitorsfromtheWesttoCairobyanymeansconfinedtothemalesex。LadiesaretobeseeninthestreetsquiteregardlessoftheMahommedancustomwhichpresumesaveiltobenecessaryforanappearanceinpublic；and，totellthetruth，theMahommedansingeneraldonotappeartobemuchshockedbytheireffrontery。
Aquarterofthetownhasinthiswaybecomeinhabitedbymenwearingcoatsandwaistcoats，andbywomenwhoarewithoutveils；buttheEnglishtongueinEgyptfindsitscentreatShepheard’sHotel。ItisherethatpeoplecongregatewhoarelookingoutforpartiestovisitwiththemtheUpperNile，andwhoaregenerallyallsmilesandcourtesy；andherealsoaretobefoundtheywhohavejustreturnedfromthisjourney，andwhoareofteninaframeofmindtowardstheircompanionsthatismuchlessamiable。Fromhence，duringthewinter，acortegeproceedsalmostdailytothepyramids，ortoMemphis，ortothepetrifiedforest，ortotheCityoftheSun。Andthen，again，fourorfivetimesamonththehouseisfilledwithyoungaspirantsgoingouttoIndia，maleandfemale，fullofvalourandbloom；orwithotherscominghome，nolongeryoung，nolongeraspiring，butladenwithchildrenandgrievances。
ThepartywithwhomweareatpresentconcernedisnotabouttoproceedfurtherthanthePyramids，andweshallbeabletogowiththemandreturninoneandthesameday。
ItconsistedchieflyofanEnglishfamily，Mr。andMrs。Damer，theirdaughter，andtwoyoungsons；——ofthesechiefly，becausetheywerethenucleustowhichtheothershadattachedthemselvesasadherents；theyhadoriginatedthejourney，andinthewholemanagementofitMr。Damerretardedhimselfasthemaster。
Theadherentswere，firstly，M。Delabordeau，aFrenchman，nowresidentinCairo，whohadgivenoutthathewasinsomewayconcernedinthecanalabouttobemadebetweentheMediterraneanandtheRedSea。IndiscussiononthissubjecthehadbecomeacquaintedwithMr。Damer；andalthoughthelattergentleman，truetoEnglishinterests，perpetuallydeclaredthatthecanalwouldneverbemade，andthusirritatedM。
Delabordeaunotalittle——nevertheless，somemeasureoffriendshiphadgrownupbetweenthem。
TherewasalsoanAmericangentleman，Mr。JeffersonIngram，whowascomprisingallcountriesandallnationsinonegrandtour，asAmericangentlemensooftendo。Hewasyoungandgood—looking，andhadmadehimselfespeciallyagreeabletoMr。Damer，whohaddeclared，morethanonce，thatMr。IngramwasbyfarthemostrationalAmericanhehadevermet。Mr。IngramwouldlistentoMr。Damerbythehalf—hourastothevirtueoftheBritishConstitution，andhadevensatbyalmostwithpatiencewhenMr。DamerhadexpressedadoubtastothegoodworkingoftheUnitedStates’schemeofpolicy，——which，inanAmerican，wasmostwonderful。ButsomeofthesojournersatShepheard’shadobservedthatMr。IngramwasinthehabitoftalkingwithMissDameralmostasmuchaswithherfather，andarguedfromthat，thatfondastheyoungmanwasofpolitics，hedidsometimesturnhismindtootherthingsalso。
AndthentherewasMissDawkins。NowMissDawkinswasanimportantperson，bothastoherselfandastoherlineoflife，andshemustbedescribed。Shewas，inthefirstplace，anunprotectedfemaleofaboutthirtyyearsofage。Asthisisbecominganestablishedprofession，settingitselfupasitwereinoppositiontotheoldworldideathatwomen，likegreenpeas，cannotcometoperfectionwithoutsupporting—
sticks，itwillbeunderstoodatoncewhatwereMissDawkins’ssentiments。Sheconsidered——oratanyratesoexpressedherself——thatpeascouldgrowverywellwithoutsticks，andcouldnotonlygrowthusunsupported，butcouldalsomaketheirwayabouttheworldwithoutanyincumbranceofstickswhatsoever。Shedidnotintend，shesaid，torivalIdaPfeiffer，seeingthatshewasattachedinamoderatewaytobedandboard，andwasattachedtosocietyinamanneralmostmorethanmoderate；butshehadnoideaofbeingpreventedfromseeinganythingshewishedtoseebecauseshehadneitherfather，norhusband，norbrotheravailableforthepurposeofescort。Shewasahumancreature，witharmsandlegs，shesaid；andsheintendedtousethem。Andthiswasallverywell；butneverthelessshehadastronginclinationtousethearmsandlegsofotherpeoplewhenshecouldmakethemserviceable。
InpersonMissDawkinswasnotwithoutattraction。IshouldexaggerateifIweretosaythatshewasbeautifulandelegant；butshewasgoodlooking，andnotusuallyillmannered。Shewastall，andgiftedwithfeaturesrathersharpandwitheyesverybright。Herhairwasofthedarkestshadeofbrown，andwasalwaysworninbandeaux，veryneatly。
Sheappearedgenerallyinblack，thoughothercircumstancesdidnotleadonetosupposethatshewasinmourning；andthen，noothertravellingcostumeissoconvenient！Shealwaysworeadarkbroad—
brimmedstrawhat，astotheribbonsonwhichshewasratherparticular。Shewasveryneataboutherglovesandboots；andthoughitcannotbesaidthatherdresswasgotupwithoutreferencetoexpense，therecanbenodoubtthatitwasnoteffectedwithoutconsiderableoutlay，——andmoreconsiderablethought。
MissDawkins——SabrinaDawkinswashername，butsheseldomhadfriendsaboutherintimateenoughtousethewordSabrina——wascertainlyacleveryoungwoman。Shecouldtalkonmostsubjects，ifnotwell，atleastwellenoughtoamuse。Ifshehadnotreadmuch，shenevershowedanylamentabledeficiency；shewasgood—humoured，asarule，andcouldonoccasionsbeverysoftandwinning。Peoplewhohadknownherlongwouldsometimessaythatshewasselfish；butwithnewacquaintanceshewasforbearingandself—denying。
WithwhatincomeMissDawkinswasblessednooneseemedtoknow。Shelivedlikeagentlewoman，asfarasoutwardappearancewent，andneverseemedtobeinwant；butsomepeoplewouldsaythatsheknewverywellhowmanysidesthereweretoashilling，andsomeenemyhadoncedeclaredthatshewasan\"oldsoldier。\"SuchwasMissDawkins。
Shealso，aswellasMr。IngramandM。Delabordeau，hadlaidherselfouttofindtheweaksideofMr。Damer。Mr。Damer，withallhisfamily，wasgoinguptheNile，anditwasknownthathehadroomfortwoinhisboatoverandabovehisownfamily。MissDawkinshadtoldhimthatshehadnotquitemadeuphermindtoundergosogreatafatigue，butthat，nevertheless，shehadalongingofthesoultoseesomethingofNubia。TothisMr。Damerhadanswerednothingbut\"Oh！\"
whichMissDawkinshadnotfoundtobeencouraging。
Butshehadnotonthataccountdespaired。Toamarriedmantherearealwaystwosides，andinthisinstancetherewasMrs。DameraswellasMr。Damer。WhenMr。Damersaid\"Oh！\"MissDawkinssighed，andsaid，\"Yes，indeed！\"thensmiled，andbetookherselftoMrs。Damer。
NowMrs。Damerwassoft—hearted，andalsosomewhatold—fashioned。ShedidnotconceiveanyviolentaffectionforMissDawkins，butshetoldherdaughterthat\"thesingleladybyherselfwasaveryniceyoungwoman，andthatitwasathousandpitiessheshouldhavetogoaboutsomuchalonelike。\"
MissDamerhadturnedupherprettynose，thinking，perhaps，howsmallwasthechancethatitevershouldbeherownlottobeanunprotectedfemale。ButMissDawkinscarriedherpointatanyrateasregardedtheexpeditiontothePyramids。
MissDamer，Ihavesaid，hadaprettynose。Imayalsosaythatshehadprettyeyes，mouth，andchin，withothernecessaryappendages，allpretty。AstothetwoMasterDamers，whowererespectivelyoftheagesoffifteenandsixteen，itmaybesufficienttosaythattheywereconspicuousforredcapsandfortheconstancywithwhichtheyracedtheirdonkeys。
Andnowthedonkeys，andthedonkeyboys，andthedragomanswereallstandingatthestepsofShepheard’sHotel。Toeachdonkeytherewasadonkey—boy，andtoeachgentlemantherewasadragoman，sothatagoodlycortegewasassembled，andagoodlynoisewasmade。Itmayhereberemarked，perhapswithsomelittlepride，thatnothalfthenoiseisgiveninEgypttopersonsspeakinganyotherlanguagethatisbestowedonthosewhosevocabularyisEnglish。
Thislastedforhalfanhour。HadthepartybeenFrenchthedonkeyswouldhavearrivedonlyfifteenminutesbeforetheappointedtime。AndthenoutcameDamerpereandDamermere，Damerfille，andDamerfils。
Damermerewasleaningonherhusband，aswasherwont。Shewasnotanunprotectedfemale，andhadnodesiretomakeanyattemptsinthatline。DamerfillewasattendedsedulouslybyMr。Ingram，forwhosedemolishment，however，Mr。Damerstillbroughtup，inaloudvoice，thefagendsofcertainpoliticalargumentswhichhewouldfainhavepoureddirectintotheearsofhisopponent，hadnothiswifebeensopersistentinclaimingherprivileges。M。DelabordeaushouldhavefollowedwithMissDawkins，buthisFrenchpoliteness，orelsehisfearoftheunprotectedfemale，taughthimtowalkontheothersideofthemistressoftheparty。
MissDawkinsleftthehousewithaneageryoungDameryellingoneachsideofher；butnevertheless，thoughthusneglectedbythegentlemenoftheparty，shewasallsmilesandprettiness，andlookedsosweetlyonMr。Ingramwhenthatgentlemanstayedamomenttohelpherontoherdonkey，thathisheartalmostmisgavehimforleavingherassoonasshewasinherseat。
Andthentheywereoff。IngoingfromthehoteltothePyramidsourpartyhadnottopassthroughanyofthequeeroldnarrowstreetsofthetrueCairo——CairotheOriental。Theyalllaybehindthemastheywentdownbythebackofthehotel，bythebarracksofthePashaandtheCollegeoftheDervishes，tothevillageofoldCairoandthebanksoftheNile。
Heretheywerekepthalfanhourwhiletheirdragomansmadeabargainwiththeferryman，astatelyreis，orcaptainofaboat，whodeclaredwithmuchdignitythathecouldnotcarrythemoverforasumlessthansixtimestheamounttowhichhewasjustlyentitled；whilethedragomans，withgreatenergyonbehalfoftheirmasters，offeredhimonlyfivetimesthatsum。
Asfarasthereiswasconcerned，thecontestmightsoonhavebeenatanend，forthemanwasnotwithoutaconscience；andwouldhavebeencontentwithfivetimesandahalf；butthenthethreedragomansquarrelledamongthemselvesastowhichshouldhavethepayingofthemoney，andtheaffairbecameverytedious。
\"Whathorrid，odiousmen！\"saidMissDawkins，appealingtoMr。Damer。
\"Doyouthinktheywillletusgooveratall？\"
\"Well，Isupposetheywill；peopledogetovergenerally，Ibelieve。
Abdallah！Abdallah！whydon’tyoupaytheman？Thatfellowisalwaysstrivingtosavehalfapiastreforme。\"
\"Iwishhewasn’tquitesoparticular，\"saidMrs。Damer，whowasalreadybecomingrathertired；\"butI’msurehe’saveryhonestmanintryingtoprotectusfrombeingrobbed。\"
\"Thatheis，\"saidMissDawkins。\"Whatadelightfultraitofnationalcharacteritistoseethesemensofaithfultotheiremployers。\"Andthenatlasttheygotovertheferry，Mr。Ingramhavingdescendedamongthecombatants，andsettledthematterindisputebythreatsandshouts，andanupliftedstick。
TheycrossedthebroadNileexactlyatthespotwherethenilometer，orriverguage，measuresfromdaytoday，andfromyeartoyear，theincreasingordecreasingtreasuresofthestream，andlandedatavillagewherethousandsofeggsaremadeintochickensbytheprocessofartificialincubation。
Mrs。Damerthoughtthatitwasveryharduponthematernalhens——thehenswhichshouldhavebeenmaternal——thattheyshouldbethusrobbedofthedelightsofmotherhood。
\"Sounnatural，youknow，\"saidMissDawkins；\"soopposedtothefosteringprinciplesofcreation。Don’tyouthinkso，Mr。Ingram？\"
Mr。Ingramsaidhedidn’tknow。HewasagainseatingMissDameronherdonkey，anditmustbepresumedthatheperformedthisfeatclumsily；
forFannyDamercouldjumponandofftheanimalwithhardlyafingertohelpher，whenherbrotherorherfatherwasherescort；butnow，underthehandsofMr。Ingram，thisworkofmountingwasonewhichrequiredconsiderabletimeandcare。AllwhichMissDawkinsobservedwithprecision。
\"It’sallverywelltalking，\"saidMr。Damer，bringinguphisdonkeynearlyalongsidethatofMr。Ingram，andignoringhisdaughter’spresence，justashewouldhavedonethatofhisdog；\"butyoumustadmitthatpoliticalpowerismoreequallydistributedinEnglandthanitisinAmerica。\"
\"Perhapsitis，\"saidMr。Ingram；\"equallydistributedamong，wewillsay，threedozenfamilies，\"andhemadeafeintasthoughtoholdinhisimpetuousdonkey，usingthespur，however，atthesametimeonthesidethatwasunseenbyMr。Damer。Ashedidso，Fanny’sdonkeybecameequallyimpetuous，andthetwocanteredoninadvanceofthewholeparty。ItwasquiteinvainthatMr。Damer，atthetopofhisvoice，shoutedoutsomethingabout\"threedozencorruptibledemagogues。\"Mr。
Ingramfounditquiteimpossibletorestrainhisdonkeysoastolistentothesarcasm。
\"Idobelievepapawouldtalkpolitics，\"saidFanny，\"ifhewereatthetopofMontBlanc，orundertheFallsofNiagara。Idohatepolitics，Mr。Ingram。\"
\"Iamsorryforthat，very，\"saidMr。Ingram，almostsadly。
\"Sorry，why？Youdon’twantmetotalkpolitics，doyou？\"
\"InAmericaweareallpoliticians，moreorless；and，therefore，I
supposeyouwillhateusall。\"
\"Well，IratherthinkIshould，\"saidFanny；\"youwouldbesuchbores。\"
Buttherewassomethinginhereye，asshespoke，whichatonedfortheharshnessofherwords。
\"AveryniceyoungmanisMr。Ingram；don’tyouthinkso？\"saidMissDawkinstoMrs。Damer。Mrs。Damerwasgoingalonguponherdonkey，notaltogethercomfortably。Shemuchwishedtohaveherlordandlegitimateprotectorbyherside，buthehadlefthertothecareofadragomanwhoseEnglishwasnotintelligibletoher，andshewasrathercross。
\"Indeed，MissDawkins，Idon’tknowwhoareniceandwhoarenot。Thisnastydonkeystumblesateverstep。There！IknowIshallbedowndirectly。\"
\"Youneednotbeatallafraidofthat；theyareperfectlysafe，I
believe，always，\"saidMissDawkins，risinginherstirrup，andhandlingherreinsquitetriumphantly。\"Averylittlepracticewillmakeyouquiteathome。\"
\"Idon’tknowwhatyoumeanbyaverylittlepractice。Ihavebeenheresixweeks。Whydidyouputmeonsuchabaddonkeyasthis？\"andsheturnedtoAbdallah，thedragoman。
\"Himberrygooddonkey，mylady；berrygood，——bestofall。CallhimJackinCairo。HimgotoPyramidandback，andmindnoting。\"
\"Whatdoeshesay，MissDawkins？\"
\"HesaysthatthatdonkeyisonecalledJack。IfsoI’vehadhimmyselfmanytimes，andJackisaverygooddonkey。\"
\"Iwishyouhadhimnowwithallmyheart，\"saidMrs。Damer。UponwhichMissDawkinsofferedtochange；butthoseperilsofmountinganddismountingweretoMrs。Dameragreatdealtooseveretoadmitofthis。
\"Sevenmilesofcanaltobecarriedoutintothesea，ataminimumdepthoftwenty—threefeet，andthestonetobefetchedfromHeavenknowswhere！AllthemoneyinFrancewouldn’tdoit。\"ThiswasaddressedbyMr。DamertoM。Delabordeau，whomhehadcaughtaftertheabruptflightofMr。Ingram。
\"DenwewillborrowaleetlefromEngland，\"saidM。Delabordeau。
\"Preciouslittle，Icantellyou。Suchstockwouldnotholditspriceinourmarketsfortwenty—fourhours。Ifitweremade，thefreightswouldbetooheavytoallowofmerchandisepassingthrough。Theheavygoodswouldallgoround；andasforpassengersandmails，youdon’texpecttogetthem，Isuppose，whilethereisarailroadreadymadetotheirhand？\"
\"Yevillcarryallyourshipsthroughvidoutanytransportation。Thinkofthat，myfriend。\"
\"Pshaw！YouareworsethanIngram。OfalltheplansIeverheardofitisthemostmonstrous，themostimpracticable，themost——\"Butherehewasinterruptedbytheentreatiesofhiswife，whohad，inabsolutedeedandfact，slippedfromherdonkey，andwasnowcallinglustilyforherhusband’said。WhereuponMissDawkinsalliedherselftotheFrenchman，andlistenedwithanairofstrongconvictiontothoseargumentswhichweresoweakintheearsofMr。Damer。M。DelabordeauwasabouttorideacrosstheGreatDeserttoJerusalem，anditmightperhapsbequiteaswelltodothatwithhim，astogouptheNileasfarasthesecondcataractwiththeDamers。
\"Andso，M。Delabordeau，youintendreallytostartforMountSinai？\"
\"Yes，mees；veintendtomakeonestartonMondayweek。\"
\"AndsoontoJerusalem。Youarequiteright。Itwouldbeathousandpitiestobeinthesecountries，andtoreturnwithoutgoingoversuchgroundasthat。IshallcertainlygotoJerusalemmyselfbythatroute。\"
\"Vot，mees！you？Wouldyounotfindittoomuchfatigante？\"
\"Icarenothingforfatigue，ifIlikethepartyIamwith，——nothingatall，literally。Youwillhardlyunderstandme，perhaps，M。
Delabordeau；butIdonotseeanyreasonwhyI，asayoungwoman，shouldnotmakeanyjourneythatispracticableforayoungman。\"
\"Ah！datisgreatresolutionforyou，mees。\"
\"Imeanasfarasfatigueisconcerned。YouareaFrenchman，andbelongtothenationthatisattheheadofallhumancivilisation——\"
M。Delabordeautookoffhishatandbowedlow，tothepeakofhisdonkeysaddle。Hedearlylovedtohearhiscountrypraised，asMissDawkinswasaware。
\"AndIamsureyoumustagreewithme，\"continuedMissDawkins，\"thatthetimeisgonebyforwomentoconsiderthemselveshelplessanimals，ortobesoconsideredbyothers。\"
\"MeesDawkinsvouldneverbeconsidered，notinanytimesatall，tobeonehelplessanimal，\"saidM。Delabordeaucivilly。
\"Idonot，atanyrate，intendtobesoregarded，\"saidshe。\"Itsuitsmetotravelalone；notthatIamaversetosociety；quitethecontrary；ifImeetpleasantpeopleIamalwaysreadytojointhem。
Butitsuitsmetotravelwithoutanypermanentparty，andIdonotseewhyfalseshameshouldpreventmyseeingtheworldasthoroughlyasthoughIbelongedtotheothersex。Whyshouldit，M。Delabordeau？\"
M。Delabordeaudeclaredthathedidnotseeanyreasonwhyitshould。
\"IampassionatelyanxioustostanduponMountSinai，\"continuedMissDawkins；\"topresswithmyfeettheearliestspotinsacredhistory，oftheidentityofwhichwearecertain；tofeelwithinmetheawe—
inspiringthrillofthatthricesacredhour！\"
TheFrenchmanlookedasthoughhedidnotquiteunderstandher，buthesaidthatitwouldbemagnifique。
\"YouhavealreadymadeupyourpartyIsuppose，M。Delabordeau？\"
M。DelabordeaugavethenamesoftwoFrenchmenandoneEnglishmanwhoweregoingwithhim。
\"Uponmyworditisagreattemptationtojoinyou，\"saidMissDawkins，\"onlyforthathorridEnglishman。\"
\"Vat，Mr。Stanley？\"
\"Oh，Idon’tmeananydisrespecttoMr。Stanley。ThehorridnessI
speakofdoesnotattachtohimpersonally，buttohisstiff，respectable，ungainly，well—behaved，irrational，anduncivilisedcountry。YouseeIamnotverypatriotic。\"
\"Notquitesomuchasmyfriend，Mr。Damer。\"
\"Ha！ha！ha！anexcellentcreature，isn’the？Andsotheyallare，dearcreatures。Butthentheyaresobackward。TheyaremostanxiousthatIshouldjointhemuptheNile，but——，\"andthenMissDawkinsshruggedhershouldersgracefully，and，assheflatteredherself，likeaFrenchwoman。Afterthattheyrodeoninsilenceforafewmoments。
\"Yes，ImustseeMountSinai，\"saidMissDawkins，andthensigheddeeply。M。Delabordeau，notwithstandingthathiscountrydoesstandattheheadofallhumancivilisation，wasnotcourteousenoughtodeclarethatifMissDawkinswouldjoinhispartyacrossthedesert，nothingwouldbewantingtomakehisbeatitudeinthisworldperfect。
Theirroadfromthevillageofthechicken—batchingovenslayupalongtheleftbankoftheNile，throughanimmensegroveofloftypalm—
trees，lookingoutfromamongwhichourvisitorscouldeverandanonseetheheadsofthetwogreatPyramids；——thatis，suchofthemcouldseeitasfeltanysolicitudeinthematter。
Itisastonishinghowsuchthingslosetheirgreatcharmasmenfindthemselvesintheircloseneighbourhood。ToonelivinginNewYorkorLondon，howecstaticistheinterestinspiredbythesehugestructures。
Onefeelsthatnopricewouldbetoohightopayforseeingthemaslongastimeanddistance，andtheworld’sinexorabletask—work，forbidsuchavisit。Howintensewouldbethedelightofclimbingoverthewondroushandiworkofthosewondrousarchitectssolongsincedead；howthrillingtheawewithwhichonewouldpenetratedownintotheirinteriorcaves——thosecavesinwhichlayburiedthebonesofancientkings，whoseverynamesseemtohavecometousalmostfromanotherworld！
Butallthesefeelingsbecomestrangelydim，theiracuteedgeswonderfullyworn，asthesubjectswhichinspiredthemarebroughtneartous。\"Ah！sothosearethePyramids，arethey？\"saysthetraveller，whenthefirstglimpseofthemisshowntohimfromthewindowofarailwaycarriage。\"Dearme；theydon’tlooksoveryhigh，dothey？
ForHeaven’ssakeputtheblinddown，orweshallbedestroyedbythedust。\"AndthentheecstasyandkeendelightofthePyramidshasvanishedforever。
Ourfriends，therefore，whoforweekspasthadseenfromadistance，thoughtheyhadnotyetvisitedthem，didnotseemtohaveanystrongfeelingonthesubjectastheytrottedthroughthegroveofpalm—trees。
Mr。Damerhadnotyetescapedfromhiswife，whowasstillfretfulfromtheresultofherlittleaccident。
\"ItwasallthechatteringofthatMissDawkins，\"saidMrs。Damer。
\"ShewouldnotletmeattendtowhatIwasdoing。\"
\"MissDawkinsisanass，\"saidherhusband。
\"Itisapityshehasnoonetolookafterher，\"saidMrs。Damer。M。
DelabordeauwasstilllisteningtoMissDawkins’srapturesaboutMountSinai。\"Iwonderwhethershehasgotanymoney，\"saidM。Delabordeautohimself。\"Itcan’tbemuch，\"hewentonthinking，\"orshewouldnotbeleftinthiswaybyherself。\"AndtheresultofhisthoughtswasthatMissDawkins，ifundertaken，mightprobablybecomemoreplaguethanprofit。AstoMissDawkinsherself，thoughshewasecstaticaboutMountSinai——whichwasnotpresent——sheseemedtohaveforgottenthepoorPyramids，whichwerethenbeforehernose。
Thetwoladswereridingracesalongthedustypath，muchtothedisgustoftheirdonkey—boys。Theirtimeforenjoymentwastocome。
Therewerehamperstobeopened；andthentheabsoluteclimbingofthePyramidswouldactuallybeadelighttothem。
AsforMissDamerandMr。Ingram，itwasclearthattheyhadforgottenpalm—trees，Pyramids，theNile，andallEgypt。Theyhadescapedtoamuchfairerparadise。
\"CouldIbeartoliveamongRepublicans？\"saidFanny，repeatingthelastwordsofherAmericanlover，andlookingdownfromherdonkeytothegroundasshedidso。\"IhardlyknowwhatRepublicansare，Mr。
Ingram。\"
\"Letmeteachyou，\"saidhe。
\"Youdotalksuchnonsense。IdeclarethereisthatMissDawkinslookingatusasthoughshehadtwentyeyes。Couldyounotteachher，Mr。Ingram？\"
Andsotheyemergedfromthepalm—treegrove，throughavillagecrowdedwithdirty，stragglingArabchildren，ontothecultivatedplain，beyondwhichthePyramidsstood，nowfullbeforethem；thetwolargePyramids，asmallerone，andthehugesphynx’sheadallinagrouptogether。
\"Fanny，\"saidBobDamer，ridinguptoher，\"mammawantsyou；sotoddleback。\"
\"Mammawantsme！Whatcanshewantmefornow？\"saidFanny，withalookofanythingbutfilialdutyinherface。
\"ToprotectherfromMissDawkins，Ithink。Shewantsyoutorideatherside，sothatDawkinsmayn’tgetather。Now，Mr。Ingram，I’llbetyouhall—a—crownI’matthetopofthebigPyramidbeforeyou。\"
PoorFanny！Sheobeyed，however；doubtlessfeelingthatitwouldnotdoasyettoshowtooplainlythatshepreferredMr。Ingramtohermother。Shearrestedherdonkey，therefore，tillMrs。Damerovertookher；andMr。Ingram，ashepausedforamomentwithherwhileshedidso，fellintothehandsofMissDawkins。
\"Icannotthink，Fanny，howyougetonsoquick，\"saidMrs。Damer。
\"I’malwayslast；butthenmydonkeyissuchaverynastyone。Lookthere，now；he’salwaystryingtogetmeoff。\"
\"WeshallsoonbeatthePyramidsnow，mamma。\"
\"HowonearthIamevertogetbackagainIcannotthink。IamsotirednowthatIcanhardlysit。\"
\"You’llbebetter，mamma，whenyougetyourluncheonandaglassofwine。\"
\"HowonearthwearetoeatanddrinkwiththosenastyArabpeoplearoundus，Ican’tconceive。Theytellmeweshallbeeatenupbythem。But，Fanny，whathasMr。Ingrambeensayingtoyoualltheday？\"
\"Whathashebeensaying，mamma？Oh！Idon’tknow；——ahundredthings，Idaresay。Buthehasnotbeentalkingtomeallthetime。\"
\"Ithinkhehas，Fanny，nearly，sincewecrossedtheriver。Oh，dear！
oh，dear！thisanimaldoeshurtmeso！Everytimehemovesheflingshisheadabout，andthatgivesmesuchabump。\"AndthenFannycommiseratedhermother’ssufferings，andinhercommiserationcontrivedtoeludeanyfurtherquestioningsastoMr。Ingram’sconversation。
\"Majesticpiles，aretheynot？\"saidMissDawkins，who，havingchangedhercompanion，allowedhermindtorevertfromMountSinaitothePyramids。Theywerenowridingthroughcultivatedground，withthevastextentofthesandsofLibyabeforethem。ThetwoPyramidswerestandingonthemarginofthesand，withtheheadoftherecumbentsphynxplainlyvisiblebetweenthem。Butnoideacanbeformedofthesizeofthisimmensefiguretillitisvisitedmuchmoreclosely。Thebodyiscoveredwithsand，andtheheadandneckalonestandabovethesurfaceoftheground。Theywerestilltwomilesdistant，andthesphynxasyetwasbutanobscuremountbetweenthetwovastPyramids。
\"Immensepiles！\"saidMissDawkins，repeatingherownwords。
\"Yes，theyarelarge，\"saidMr。Ingram，whodidnotchoosetoindulgeinenthusiasminthepresenceofMissDawkins。
\"Enormous！Whatagrandidea！——eh，Mr。Ingram？Thehumanracedoesnotcreatesuchthingsasthosenowadays！\"
\"No，indeed，\"heanswered；\"butperhapswecreatebetterthings。\"
\"Better！Youdonotmeantosay，Mr。Ingram，thatyouareanutilitarian。Ido，intruth，hopebetterthingsofyouthanthat。
Yes！steammillsarebetter，nodoubt，andmechanics’institutesandpennynewspapers。Butisnothingtobevaluedbutwhatisuseful？\"
AndMissDawkins，intheheightofherenthusiasm，switchedherdonkeyseverelyovertheshoulder。
\"Imight，perhaps，havesaidalsothatwecreatemorebeautifulthings，\"saidMr。Ingram。
\"Butwecannotcreateolderthings。\"
\"No，certainly；wecannotdothat。\"
\"Norcanweimbuewhatwedocreatewiththegrandassociationswhichenvironthosepileswithsointenseaninterest。Thinkofthemightydead，Mr。Ingram，andoftheirgreathomeswhenliving。Thinkofthehandswhichittooktoraisethosehugeblocks——\"
\"Andoftheliveswhichitcost。\"
\"Doubtless。Thetyrannyandinvinciblepoweroftheroyalarchitectsaddtothegrandeuroftheidea。OnewouldnotwishtohavebackthekingsofEgypt。\"
\"Well，no；theywouldbeneitherusefulnorbeautiful。\"
\"Perhapsnot；andIdonotwishtobepicturesqueattheexpenseofmyfellow—creatures。\"
\"Idoubt，even，whethertheywouldbepicturesque。\"
\"YouknowwhatImean，Mr。Ingram。Buttheassociationsofsuchnames，andthepresenceofthestupendousworkswithwhichtheyareconnected，fillthesoulwithawe。Such，atleast，istheeffectwithmine。\"
\"Ifearthatmytendencies，MissDawkins，aremorerealisticthanyourown。\"
\"Youbelongtoayoungcountry，Mr。Ingram，andarenaturallypronetothinkofmateriallife。Thenecessityoflivingloomslargebeforeyou。\"
\"Verylarge，indeed，MissDawkins。\"
\"Whereaswithus，withsomeofusatleast，thematerialaspecthasgivenplacetooneinwhichpoetryandenthusiasmprevail。Tosuchamongustheassociationsofpasttimesareverydear。Cheops，tome，ismorethanNapoleonBonaparte。\"
\"Thatismorethanmostofyourcountrymencansay，atanyrate，justatpresent。\"
\"Iamawoman，\"continuedMissDawkins。
Mr。Ingramtookoffhishatinacknowledgmentbothoftheannouncementandofthefact。
\"Andtousitisnotgiven——notgivenasyet——toshareinthegreatdeedsofthepresent。Theenvyofyoursexhasdrivenusfromthepathswhichleadtohonour。Butthedeedsofthepastareasmuchoursasyours。\"
\"Oh，quiteasmuch。\"
\"’Tistoyourcountrythatwelookforenfranchisementfromthisthraldom。Yes，Mr。Ingram，thewomenofAmericahavethatstrengthofmindwhichhasbeenwantingtothoseofEurope。IntheUnitedStateswomanwillatlastlearntoexerciseherpropermission。\"
Mr。Ingramexpressedasincerewishthatsuchmightbethecase；andthenwonderingattheingenuitywithwhichMissDawkinshadtravelledroundfromCheopsandhisPyramidtotherightsofwomeninAmerica，hecontrivedtofallback，underthepretenceofaskingaftertheailmentsofMrs。Damer。
Andnowatlasttheywereonthesand，intheabsolutedesert，makingtheirwayuptotheveryfootofthemostnorthernofthetwoPyramids。
TheywerebythistimesurroundedbyacrowdofArabguides，orArabsprofessingtobeguides，whohadalreadyascertainedthatMr。Damerwasthechiefoftheparty，andwereaccordinglydrivinghimalmosttomadnessbytheoffersoftheirservices，andtheirassurancethathecouldnotpossiblyseetheoutsideortheinsideofeitherstructure，orevenremainaliveupontheground，unlessheatonceacceptedtheiroffersmadeattheirownprices。