Ifthechiefuseofpropertybepower，intheshapeoftherespectitprocures，isitnotamongtheinconsistenciesofhumannaturemostincomprehensible，thatmenshouldfindapleasureinhoardinguppropertywhichtheystealfromtheirnecessities，evenwhentheyareconvincedthatitwouldbedangeroustodisplaysuchanenviablesuperiority？Isnotthisthesituationofserfsineverycountry.
Yetarapacitytoaccumulatemoneyseemstobecomestrongerinproportionasitisallowedtobeuseless.
WealthdoesnotappeartobesoughtforamongsttheDanes，toobtaintheexcellentluxuriesoflife，forawantoftasteisveryconspicuousatCopenhagen;somuchsothatIamnotsurprisedtohearthatpoorMatildaoffendedtherigidLutheransbyaimingtorefinetheirpleasures.Theelegancewhichshewishedtointroducewastermedlasciviousness;yetIdonotfindthattheabsenceofgallantryrendersthewivesmorechaste，orthehusbandsmoreconstant.Lovehereseemstocorruptthemoralswithoutpolishingthemanners，bybanishingconfidenceandtruth，thecharmaswellascementofdomesticlife.Agentleman，whohasresidedinthiscitysometime，assuresmethathecouldnotfindlanguagetogivemeanideaofthegrossdebaucheriesintowhichthelowerorderofpeoplefall;andthepromiscuousamoursofthemenofthemiddlingclasswiththeirfemaleservantsdebasebothbeyondmeasure，weakeningeveryspeciesoffamilyaffection.
Ihaveeverywherebeenstruckbyonecharacteristicdifferenceintheconductofthetwosexes;women，ingeneral，areseducedbytheirsuperiors，andmenjiltedbytheirinferiors：rankandmannersawetheone，andcunningandwantonnesssubjugatetheother;
ambitioncreepingintothewoman’spassion，andtyrannygivingforcetotheman’s，formostmentreattheirmistressesaskingsdotheirfavourites：ergoisnotmanthenthetyrantofthecreation？
Stillharpingonthesamesubject，youwillexclaim——HowcanIavoidit，whenmostofthestrugglesofaneventfullifehavebeenoccasionedbytheoppressedstateofmysex？Wereasondeeplywhenwefeelforcibly.
Buttoreturntothestraightroadofobservation.Thesensualitysoprevalentappearstometoariseratherfromindolenceofmindanddullsenses，thanfromanexuberanceoflife，whichoftenfructifiesthewholecharacterwhenthevivacityofyouthfulspiritsbeginstosubsideintostrengthofmind.
Ihavebeforementionedthatthemenaredomestictyrants，consideringthemasfathers，brothers，orhusbands;butthereisakindofinterregnumbetweenthereignofthefatherandhusbandwhichistheonlyperiodoffreedomandpleasurethatthewomenenjoy.Youngpeoplewhoareattachedtoeachother，withtheconsentoftheirfriends，exchangerings，andarepermittedtoenjoyadegreeoflibertytogetherwhich1havenevernoticedinanyothercountry.Thedaysofcourtshipare，therefore，prolongedtillitbeperfectlyconvenienttomarry：theintimacyoftenbecomesverytender;andiftheloverobtaintheprivilegeofahusband，itcanonlybetermedhalfbystealth，becausethefamilyiswilfullyblind.Ithappensveryrarelythatthesehonoraryengagementsaredissolvedordisregarded，astigmabeingattachedtoabreachoffaithwhichisthoughtmoredisgraceful，ifnotsocriminal，astheviolationofthemarriage—vow.
Donotforgetthat，inmygeneralobservations，Idonotpretendtosketchanationalcharacter，butmerelytonotethepresentstateofmoralsandmannersasItracetheprogressoftheworld’simprovement.Because，duringmyresidenceindifferentcountries，myprincipalobjecthasbeentotakesuchadispassionateviewofmenaswillleadmetoformajustideaofthenatureofman.And，todealingenuouslywithyou，IbelieveIshouldhavebeenlesssevereintheremarksIhavemadeonthevanityanddepravityoftheFrench，hadItravelledtowardsthenorthbeforeIvisitedFrance.
Theinterestingpicturefrequentlydrawnofthevirtuesofarisingpeoplehas，Ifear，beenfallacious，exceptingtheaccountsoftheenthusiasmwhichvariouspublicstruggleshaveproduced.WetalkofthedepravityoftheFrench，andlayastressontheoldageofthenation;yetwherehasmorevirtuousenthusiasmbeendisplayedthanduringthetwolastyearsbythecommonpeopleofFrance，andintheirarmies？IamobligedsometimestorecollectthenumberlessinstanceswhichIhaveeitherwitnessed，orheardwellauthenticated，tobalancetheaccountofhorrors，alas！buttootrue.Iam，therefore，inclinedtobelievethatthegrossviceswhichIhavealwaysseemalliedwithsimplicityofmanners，aretheconcomitantsofignorance.
What，forexample，haspiety，undertheheathenorChristiansystem，been，butablindfaithinthingscontrarytotheprinciplesofreason？Andcouldpoorreasonmakeconsiderableadvanceswhenitwasreckonedthehighestdegreeofvirtuetodoviolencetoitsdictates？Lutherans，preachingreformation，havebuiltareputationforsanctityonthesamefoundationastheCatholics;yetIdonotperceivethataregularattendanceonpublicworship，andtheirotherobservances，makethemawhitmoretrueintheiraffections，orhonestintheirprivatetransactions.Itseems，indeed，quiteaseasytoprevaricatewithreligiousinjunctionsashumanlaws，whentheexerciseoftheirreasondoesnotleadpeopletoacquireprinciplesforthemselvestobethecriterionofallthosetheyreceivefromothers.
Iftravelling，asthecompletionofaliberaleducation，weretobeadoptedonrationalgrounds，thenorthernstatesoughttobevisitedbeforethemorepolishedpartsofEurope，toserveastheelementsevenoftheknowledgeofmanners，onlytobeacquiredbytracingthevariousshadesindifferentcountries.But，whenvisitingdistantclimes，amomentarysocialsympathyshouldnotbeallowedtoinfluencetheconclusionsoftheunderstanding，forhospitalitytoofrequentlyleadstravellers，especiallythosewhotravelinsearchofpleasure，tomakeafalseestimateofthevirtuesofanation，which，Iamnowconvinced，bearanexactproportiontotheirscientificimprovements.
Adieu.
LETTERXX.
IhaveformerlycensuredtheFrenchfortheirextremeattachmenttotheatricalexhibitions，becauseIthoughtthattheytendedtorenderthemvainandunnaturalcharacters;butImustacknowledge，especiallyaswomenofthetownneverappearintheParisianasatourtheatres，thatthelittlesavingoftheweekismoreusefullyexpendedthereeverySundaythaninporterorbrandy，tointoxicateorstupifythemind.ThecommonpeopleofFrancehaveagreatsuperiorityoverthatclassineveryothercountryonthisveryscore.ItismerelythesobrietyoftheParisianswhichrenderstheirfetesmoreinteresting，theirgaietyneverbecomingdisgustingordangerous，asisalwaysthecasewhenliquorcirculates.
Intoxicationisthepleasureofsavages，andofallthosewhoseemploymentsratherexhausttheiranimalspiritsthanexercisetheirfaculties.Isnotthis，infact，thevice，bothinEnglandandthenorthernstatesofEurope，whichappearstobethegreatestimpedimenttogeneralimprovement？Drinkingisheretheprincipalrelaxationofthemen，includingsmoking，butthewomenareveryabstemious，thoughtheyhavenopublicamusementsasasubstitute.
Ioughttoexceptonetheatre，whichappearsmorethanisnecessary;
forwhenIwasthereitwasnothalffull，andneithertheladiesnoractressesdisplayedmuchfancyintheirdress.
Theplaywasfoundedonthestoryofthe\"MockDoctor;\"and，fromthegesturesoftheservants，whowerethebestactors，Ishouldimaginecontainedsomehumour.Thefarce，termedballet，wasakindofpantomime，thechildishincidentsofwhichweresufficienttoshowthestateofthedramaticartinDenmark，andthegrosstasteoftheaudience.Amagician，inthedisguiseofatinker，entersacottagewherethewomenareallbusyironing，andrubsadirtyfrying—panagainstthelinen.Thewomenraiseahue—and—cry，anddanceafterhim，rousingtheirhusbands，whojoininthedance，butgetthestartoftheminthepursuit.Thetinker，withthefrying—
panforashield，rendersthemimmovable，andblackstheircheeks.
Eachlaughsattheother，unconsciousofhisownappearance;
meanwhilethewomenentertoenjoythesport，\"therarefun，\"withotherincidentsofthesamespecies.
Thesingingwasmuchonaparwiththedancing，theoneasdestituteofgraceastheotherofexpression;buttheorchestrawaswellfilled，theinstrumentalbeingfarsuperiortothevocalmusic.
Ihavelikewisevisitedthepubliclibraryandmuseum，aswellasthepalaceofRosembourg.Thispalace，nowdeserted，displaysagloomykindofgrandeurthroughout，forthesilenceofspaciousapartmentsalwaysmakesitselftobefelt;Iatleastfeelit，andI
listenforthesoundofmyfootstepsasIhavedoneatmidnighttothetickingofthedeath—watch，encouragingakindoffancifulsuperstition.Everyobjectcarriedmebacktopasttimes，andimpressedthemannersoftheageforciblyonmymind.Inthispointofviewthepreservationofoldpalacesandtheirtarnishedfurnitureisuseful，fortheymaybeconsideredashistoricaldocuments.
Thevacuumleftbydepartedgreatnesswaseverywhereobservable，whilstthebattlesandprocessionsportrayedonthewallstoldyouwhohadhereexcitedrevelryafterretiringfromslaughter，ordismissedpageantryinsearchofpleasure.Itseemedavasttombfulloftheshadowyphantomsofthosewhohadplayedortoiledtheirhouroutandsunkbehindthetapestrywhichcelebratedtheconquestsofloveorwar.Couldtheybenomore——towhommyimaginationthusgavelife？Couldthethoughts，ofwhichthereremainedsomanyvestiges，havevanishedquiteaway？Andthesebeings，composedofsuchnoblematerialsofthinkingandfeeling，havetheyonlymeltedintotheelementstokeepinmotionthegrandmassoflife？Itcannotbe！——aseasilycouldIbelievethatthelargesilverlionsatthetopofthebanquetingroomthoughtandreasoned.Butavaunt！yewakingdreams！yetIcannotdescribethecuriositiestoyou.
Therewerecabinetsfullofbaublesandgems，andswordswhichmusthavebeenwieldedbygiant’shand.Thecoronationornamentswaitquietlyheretillwanted，andthewardrobeexhibitsthevestmentswhichformerlygracedtheseshows.Itisapitytheydonotlendthemtotheactors，insteadofallowingthemtoperishingloriously.
Ihavenotvisitedanyotherpalace，exceptingHirsholm，thegardensofwhicharelaidoutwithtaste，andcommandthefinestviewsthecountryaffords.AstheyareinthemodernandEnglishstyle，I
thoughtIwasfollowingthefootstepsofMatilda，whowishedtomultiplyaroundhertheimagesofherbelovedcountry.IwasalsogratifiedbythesightofaNorwegianlandscapeinminiature，whichwithgreatproprietymakesapartoftheDanishKing’sgarden.Thecottageiswellimitated，andthewholehasapleasingeffect，particularlysotomewholoveNorway——itspeacefulfarmsandspaciouswilds.
ThepubliclibraryconsistsofacollectionmuchlargerthanI
expectedtosee;anditiswellarranged.OfthevalueoftheIcelandicmanuscriptsIcouldnotformajudgment，thoughthealphabetofsomeofthemamusedme，byshowingwhatimmenselabourmenwillsubmitto，inordertotransmittheirideastoposterity.
Ihavesometimesthoughtitagreatmisfortuneforindividualstoacquireacertaindelicacyofsentiment，whichoftenmakesthemwearyofthecommonoccurrencesoflife;yetitisthisverydelicacyoffeelingandthinkingwhichprobablyhasproducedmostoftheperformancesthathavebenefitedmankind.Itmightwithpropriety，perhaps，betermedthemaladyofgenius;thecauseofthatcharacteristicmelancholywhich\"growswithitsgrowth，andstrengthenswithitsstrength.\"
Therearesomegoodpicturesintheroyalmuseum.Donotstart，I
amnotgoingtotroubleyouwithadullcatalogue，orstupidcriticismsonmasterstowhomtimehasassignedtheirjustnicheinthetempleoffame;hadtherebeenanybylivingartistsofthiscountry，Ishouldhavenoticedthem，asmakingapartofthesketchesIamdrawingofthepresentstateoftheplace.Thegoodpicturesweremixedindiscriminatelywiththebadones，inordertoassorttheframes.ThesamefaultisconspicuousinthenewsplendidgalleryformingatParis;thoughitseemsanobviousthoughtthataschoolforartistsoughttobearrangedinsuchamanner，astoshowtheprogressivediscoveriesandimprovementsintheart.
Acollectionofthedresses，arms，andimplementsoftheLaplandersattractedmyattention，displayingthatfirstspeciesofingenuitywhichisratheraproofofpatientperseverance，thancomprehensionofmind.Thespecimensofnaturalhistory，andcuriositiesofart，werelikewisehuddledtogetherwithoutthatscientificorderwhichalonerendersthemuseful;butthismaypartlyhavebeenoccasionedbythehastymannerinwhichtheywereremovedfromthepalacewheninflames.
Therearesomerespectablemenofsciencehere，butfewliterarycharacters，andfewerartists.Theywantencouragement，andwillcontinue，Ifear，fromthepresentappearanceofthings，tolanguishunnoticedalongtime;forneitherthevanityofwealth，northeenterprisingspiritofcommerce，hasyetthrownaglancethatway.
Besides，thePrinceRoyal，determinedtobeeconomical，almostdescendstoparsimony;andperhapsdepresseshissubjects，bylabouringnottooppressthem;forhisintentionsalwaysseemtobegood——yetnothingcangiveamoreforcibleideaofthedulnesswhicheatsawayallactivityofmind，thantheinsipidroutineofacourt，withoutmagnificenceorelegance.
ThePrince，fromwhatIcannowcollect，hasverymoderateabilities;yetissowelldisposed，thatCountBernstorfffindshimastractableashecouldwish;forIconsidertheCountastherealsovereign，scarcelybehindthecurtain;thePrincehavingnoneofthatobstinateself—sufficiencyofyouth，sooftentheforerunnerofdecisionofcharacter.HeandthePrincesshiswife，dineeverydaywiththeKing，tosavetheexpenseoftwotables.Whatamummeryitmustbetotreatasakingabeingwhohaslostthemajestyofman！
ButevenCountBernstorff’smoralitysubmitstothisstandingimposition;andheavailshimselfofitsometimes，tosoftenarefusalofhisown，bysayingitistheWILLoftheKing，mymaster，wheneverybodyknowsthathehasneitherwillnormemory.Muchthesameuseismadeofhimas，Ihaveobserved，sometermagantwivesmakeoftheirhusbands;theywoulddwellonthenecessityofobeyingtheirhusbands，poorpassivesouls，whoneverwereallowedTOWILL，whentheywantedtoconcealtheirowntyranny.
AstoryistoldhereoftheKing’sformerlymakingadogcounsellorofstate，becausewhenthedog，accustomedtoeatattheroyaltable，snatchedapieceofmeatoffanoldofficer’splate，hereprovedhimjocosely，sayingthathe，monsieurlechien，hadnottheprivilegeofdiningwithhismajesty，aprivilegeannexedtothisdistinction.
Theburningofthepalacewas，infact，afortunatecircumstance，asitaffordedapretextforreducingtheestablishmentofthehousehold，whichwasfartoogreatfortherevenueoftheCrown.
ThePrinceRoyal，atpresent，runsintotheoppositeextreme;andtheformality，ifnottheparsimony，ofthecourt，seemstoextendtoalltheotherbranchesofsociety，whichIhadanopportunityofobserving;thoughhospitalitystillcharacterisestheirintercoursewithstrangers.
Butletmenowstop;Imaybealittlepartial，andvieweverythingwiththejaundicedeyeofmelancholy——forIamsad——andhavecause.
Godblessyou！
LETTERXXI.
IhaveseenCountBernstorff;andhisconversationconfirmsmeintheopinionIhadpreviouslyformedofhim;Imean，sincemyarrivalatCopenhagen.Heisaworthyman，alittlevainofhisvirtuealaNecker;andmoreanxiousnottodowrong，thatistoavoidblame，thandesirousofdoinggood;especiallyifanyparticulargooddemandsachange.Prudence，inshort，seemstobethebasisofhischaracter;and，fromthetenoroftheGovernment，Ishouldthinkincliningtothatcautiouscircumspectionwhichtreadsontheheelsoftimidity.Hehasconsiderableinformation，andsomefinesse;orhecouldnotbeaMinister.Determinednottoriskhispopularity，forheistenderlycarefulofhisreputation，hewillnevergloriouslyfaillikeStruensee，ordisturb，withtheenergyofgenius，thestagnantstateofthepublicmind.
IsupposethatLavater，whomheinvitedtovisithimtwoyearsago——
somesaytofixtheprinciplesoftheChristianreligionfirmlyinthePrinceRoyal’smind，foundlinesinhisfacetoprovehimastatesmanofthefirstorder;becausehehasaknackatseeingagreatcharacterinthecountenancesofmeninexaltedstations，whohavenoticedhimorhisworks.Besides，theCount’ssentimentsrelativetotheFrenchRevolution，agreeingwithLavater’s，musthaveensuredhisapplause.
TheDanes，ingeneral，seemextremelyaversetoinnovation，andifhappinessonlyconsistinopinion，theyarethehappiestpeopleintheworld;forIneversawanysowellsatisfiedwiththeirownsituation.Yettheclimateappearstobeverydisagreeable，theweatherbeingdryandsultry，ormoistandcold;theatmosphereneverhavingthatsharp，bracingpurity，whichinNorwaypreparesyoutobraveitsrigours.Idonotheartheinhabitantsofthisplacetalkwithdelightofthewinter，whichistheconstantthemeoftheNorwegians;onthecontrary，theyseemtodreaditscomfortlessinclemency.
Therampartsarepleasant，andmusthavebeenmuchmoresobeforethefire，thewalkersnotbeingannoyedbythecloudsofdustwhich，atpresent，theslightestwindwaftsfromtheruins.Thewindmills，andthecomfortablehousescontiguous，belongingtothemillers，aswellastheappearanceofthespaciousbarracksforthesoldiersandsailors，tendtorenderthiswalkmoreagreeable.Theviewofthecountryhasnotmuchtorecommendittonoticebutitsextentandcultivation：yetastheeyealwaysdelightstodwellonverdantplains，especiallywhenweareresidentinagreatcity，theseshadywalksshouldbereckonedamongsttheadvantagesprocuredbytheGovernmentfortheinhabitants.IlikethembetterthantheRoyalGardens，alsoopentothepublic，becausethelatterseemsunkintheheartofthecity，toconcentrateitsfogs.
Thecanalswhichintersectthestreetsareequallyconvenientandwholesome;buttheviewoftheseacommandedbythetownhadlittletointerestmewhilsttheremembranceofthevariousboldandpicturesqueshoresIhadseenwasfreshinmymemory.Stilltheopulentinhabitants，whoseldomgoabroad，mustfindthespotsweretheyfixtheircountryseatsmuchpleasanteronaccountofthevicinityoftheocean.
OneofthebeststreetsinCopenhagenisalmostfilledwithhospitals，erectedbytheGovernment，and，Iamassured，aswellregulatedasinstitutionsofthiskindareinanycountry;butwhetherhospitalsorworkhousesareanywheresuperintendedwithsufficienthumanityIhavefrequentlyhadreasontodoubt.
TheautumnissouncommonlyfinethatIamunwillingtoputoffmyjourneytoHamburgmuchlonger，lesttheweathershouldaltersuddenly，andthechillyharbingersofwintercatchmehere，whereI
havenothingnowtodetainmebutthehospitalityofthefamiliestowhomIhadrecommendatoryletters.Ilodgedatanhotelsituatedinalargeopensquare，wherethetroopsexerciseandthemarketiskept.Myapartmentswereverygood;andonaccountofthefireI
wastoldthatIshouldbechargedveryhigh;yet，payingmybilljustnow，IfindthedemandsmuchlowerinproportionthaninNorway，thoughmydinnerswereineveryrespectbetter.
IhaveremainedmoreathomesinceIarrivedatCopenhagenthanI
oughttohavedoneinastrangeplace，butthemindisnotalwaysequallyactiveinsearchofinformation，andmyoppressedhearttoooftensighsout—
\"Howdull，flat，andunprofitableAretomealltheusagesofthisworld：
Thatitshouldcometothis！\"
Farewell！Faretheewell，Isay;ifthoucanst，repeattheadieuinadifferenttone.
LETTERXXII.
IarrivedatCorsoerthenightafterIquittedCopenhagen，purposingtotakemypassageacrosstheGreatBeltthenextmorning，thoughtheweatherwasratherboisterous.Itisaboutfour—and—twentymilesbutasbothIandmylittlegirlareneverattackedbysea—
sickness——thoughwhocanavoidennui？——IenteraboatwiththesameindifferenceasIchangehorses;andasfordanger，comewhenitmay，Idreaditnotsufficientlytohaveanyanticipatingfears.
TheroadfromCopenhagenwasverygood，throughanopen，flatcountrythathadlittletorecommendittonoticeexceptingthecultivation，whichgratifiedmyheartmorethanmyeye.
ItookabargewithaGermanbaronwhowashasteningbackfromatourintoDenmark，alarmedbytheintelligenceoftheFrenchhavingpassedtheRhine.Hisconversationbeguiledthetime，andgaveasortofstimulustomyspirits，whichhadbeengrowingmoreandmorelanguideversincemyreturntoGothenburg;youknowwhy.IhadoftenendeavouredtorousemyselftoobservationbyreflectingthatIwaspassingthroughsceneswhichIshouldprobablyneverseeagain，andconsequentlyoughtnottoomitobserving.StillIfellintoreveries，thinking，bywayofexcuse，thatenlargementofmindandrefinedfeelingsareoflittleusebuttobarbthearrowsofsorrowwhichwaylayuseverywhere，eludingthesagacityofwisdomandrenderingprinciplesunavailing，ifconsideredasabreastworktosecureourownhearts.
Thoughwehadnotadirectwind，wewerenotdetainedmorethanthreehoursandahalfonthewater，justlongenoughtogiveusanappetiteforourdinner.
Wetravelledtheremainderofthedayandthefollowingnightincompanywiththesameparty，theGermangentlemanwhomIhavementioned，hisfriend，andservant.Themeetingsatthepost—houseswerepleasanttome，whousuallyheardnothingbutstrangetonguesaroundme.Margueriteandthechildoftenfellasleep，andwhentheywereawakeImightstillreckonmyselfalone，asourtrainofthoughtshadnothingincommon.Marguerite，itistrue，wasmuchamusedbythecostumeofthewomen，particularlybythepannierwhichadornedboththeirheadsandtails，andwithgreatgleerecountedtomethestoriesshehadtreasuredupforherfamilywhenoncemorewithinthebarriersofdearParis，notforgetting，withthatarch，agreeablevanitypeculiartotheFrench，whichtheyexhibitwhilsthalfridiculingit，toremindmeoftheimportancesheshouldassumewhensheinformedherfriendsofallherjourneysbyseaandland，showingthepiecesofmoneyshehadcollected，andstammeringoutafewforeignphrases，whichsherepeatedinatrueParisianaccent.Happythoughtlessness！ay，andenviableharmlessvanity，whichthusproducedagaiteducoeurworthallmyphilosophy！
ThemanIhadhiredatCopenhagenadvisedmetogoroundabouttwentymilestoavoidpassingtheLittleBeltexceptingbyaferry，asthewindwascontrary.Butthegentlemenoverruledhisarguments，whichwewereallverysorryforafterwards，whenwefoundourselvesbecalmedontheLittleBelttenhours，tackingaboutwithoutceasing，togaintheshore.
Anoversightlikewisemadethepassageappearmuchmoretedious，nay，almostinsupportable.WhenIwentonboardattheGreatBelt，Ihadprovidedrefreshmentsincaseofdetention，whichremaininguntouchedIthoughtnotthenanysuchprecautionnecessaryforthesecondpassage，misledbytheepithetof\"little，\"thoughIhavesincebeeninformedthatitisfrequentlythelongest.Thismistakeoccasionedmuchvexation;forthechild，atlast，begantocrysobitterlyforbread，thatfancyconjuredupbeforemethewretchedUgolino，withhisfamishedchildren;andI，literallyspeaking，envelopedmyselfinsympathetichorrors，augmentedbyeveryfearmybabeshed，fromwhichIcouldnotescapetillwelanded，andaluncheonofbreadandbasinofmilkroutedthespectresoffancy.
Ithensuppedwithmycompanions，withwhomIwassoonaftertopartforever——alwaysamostmelancholydeath—likeidea——asortofseparationofsoul;foralltheregretwhichfollowsthosefromwhomfateseparatesusseemstobesomethingtornfromourselves.ThesewerestrangersIremember;yetwhenthereisanyoriginalityinacountenance，ittakesitsplaceinourmemory，andwearesorrytoloseanacquaintancethemomenthebeginstointerestus，throughpickeduponthehighway.Therewas，infact，adegreeofintelligence，andstillmoresensibility，inthefeaturesandconversationofoneofthegentlemen，thatmademeregretthelossofhissocietyduringtherestofthejourney;forhewascompelledtotravelpost，byhisdesiretoreachhisestatebeforethearrivaloftheFrench.
Thiswasacomfortableinn，aswereseveralothersIstoppedat;buttheheavysandyroadswereveryfatiguing，afterthefineoneswehadlatelyskimmedoverbothinSwedenandDenmark.ThecountryresembledthemostopenpartofEngland——laidoutforcornratherthangrazing.Itwaspleasant，yettherewaslittleintheprospectstoawakencuriosity，bydisplayingthepeculiarcharacteristicsofanewcountry，whichhadsofrequentlystolemefrommyselfinNorway.Weoftenpassedoverlargeunenclosedtracts，notgracedwithtrees，oratleastverysparinglyenlivenedbythem，andthehalf—formedroadsseemedtodemandthelandmarks，setupinthewaste，topreventthetravellerfromstrayingfaroutofhisway，andploddingthroughthewearisomesand.
Theheathsweredreary，andhadnoneofthewildcharmsofthoseofSwedenandNorwaytocheattime;neithertheterrificrocks，norsmilingherbagegratefultothesightandscentedfromafar，madeusforgettheirlength.Stillthecountryappearedmuchmorepopulous，andthetowns，ifnotthefarmhouses，weresuperiortothoseofNorway.Ieventhoughtthattheinhabitantsoftheformerhadmoreintelligence——atleast，IamsuretheyhadmorevivacityintheircountenancesthanIhadseenduringmynortherntour：theirsensesseemedawaketobusinessandpleasure.Iwasthereforegratifiedbyhearingoncemorethebusyhumofindustriousmenintheday，andtheexhilaratingsoundsofjoyintheevening;for，astheweatherwasstillfine，thewomenandchildrenwereamusingthemselvesattheirdoors，orwalkingunderthetrees，whichinmanyplaceswereplantedinthestreets;andasmostofthetownsofanynoteweresituatedonlittlebaysorbranchesoftheBaltic，theirappearanceasweapproachedwasoftenverypicturesque，and，whenweentered，displayedthecomfortandcleanlinessofeasy，ifnottheeleganceofopulent，circumstances.Butthecheerfulnessofthepeopleinthestreetswasparticularlygratefultome，afterhavingbeendepressedbythedeathlikesilenceofthoseofDenmark，whereeveryhousemademethinkofatomb.Thedressofthepeasantryissuitedtotheclimate;inshort，noneofthatpovertyanddirtappeared，atthesightofwhichtheheartsickens.
AsIonlystoppedtochangehorses，takerefreshment，andsleep，I
hadnotanopportunityofknowingmoreofthecountrythanconclusionswhichtheinformationgatheredbymyeyesenabledmetodraw，andthatwassufficienttoconvincemethatIshouldmuchratherhavelivedinsomeofthetownsInowpassthroughthaninanyIhadseeninSwedenorDenmark.Thepeoplestruckmeashavingarrivedatthatperiodwhenthefacultieswillunfoldthemselves;inshort;theylookalivetoimprovement，neithercongealedbyindolence，norbentdownbywretchednesstoservility.
Fromthepreviousimpression——IscarcelycantracewhenceIreceivedit——IwasagreeablysurprisedtoperceivesuchanappearanceofcomfortinthispartofGermany.Ihadformedaconceptionofthetyrannyofthepettypotentatesthathadthrownagloomyveiloverthefaceofthewholecountryinmyimagination，thatclearedawaylikethedarknessofnightbeforethesunasIsawthereality.I
shouldprobablyhavediscoveredmuchlurkingmisery，theconsequenceofignorantoppression，nodoubt，hadIhadtimetoinquireintoparticulars;butitdidnotstalkabroadandinfectthesurfaceoverwhichmyeyeglanced.Yes，Iampersuadedthataconsiderabledegreeofgeneralknowledgepervadesthiscountry，foritisonlyfromtheexerciseofthemindthatthebodyacquirestheactivityfromwhichIdrewtheseinferences.Indeed，theKingofDenmark’sGermandominions——Holstein——appearedtomefarsuperiortoanyotherpartofhiskingdomwhichhadfallenundermyview;andtherobustrusticstohavetheirmusclesbraced，insteadofthe，asitwere，loungeoftheDanishpeasantry.
ArrivingatSleswick，theresidenceofPrinceCharlesofHesse—
Cassel，thesightofthesoldiersrecalledalltheunpleasingideasofGermandespotism，whichimperceptiblyvanishedasIadvancedintothecountry.Iviewed，withamixtureofpityandhorror，thesebeingstrainingtobesoldtoslaughter，orbeslaughtered，andfellintoreflectionsonanoldopinionofmine，thatitisthepreservationofthespecies，notofindividuals，whichappearstobethedesignoftheDeitythroughoutthewholeofNature.Blossomscomeforthonlytobeblighted;fishlaytheirspawnwhereitwillbedevoured;andwhatalargeportionofthehumanracearebornmerelytobesweptprematurelyaway！Doesnotthiswasteofbuddinglifeemphaticallyassertthatitisnotmen，butMan，whosepreservationissonecessarytothecompletionofthegrandplanoftheuniverse？Childrenpeepintoexistence，suffer，anddie;menplaylikemothsaboutacandle，andsinkintotheflame;war，and\"thethousandillswhichfleshisheirto，\"mowthemdowninshoals;
whilstthemorecruelprejudicesofsocietypalsyexistence，introducingnotlesssurethoughslowerdecay.
Thecastlewasheavyandgloomy，yetthegroundsaboutitwerelaidoutwithsometaste;awalk，windingundertheshadeofloftytrees，ledtoaregularlybuiltandanimatedtown.
Icrossedthedrawbridge，andenteredtoseethisshellofacourtinminiature，mountingponderousstairs——itwouldbeasolecismtosayaflight——upwhicharegimentofmenmighthavemarched，shoulderingtheirfirelockstoexerciseinvastgalleries，whereallthegenerationsofthePrincesofHesse—Casselmighthavebeenmusteredrankandfile，thoughnotthephantomsofallthewretchedtheyhadbarteredtosupporttheirstate，unlesstheseairysubstancescouldshrinkandexpand，likeMilton’sdevils，tosuittheoccasion.
Thesightofthepresence—chamber，andofthecanopytoshadethefauteuilwhichapedathrone，mademesmile.Alltheworldisastage，thoughtI;andfewarethereinitwhodonotplaytheparttheyhavelearntbyrote;andthosewhodonot，seemmarkssetuptobepeltedatbyfortune，orratherassign—postswhichpointouttheroadtoothers，whilstforcedtostandstillthemselvesamidstthemudanddust.
Waitingforourhorses，wewereamusedbyobservingthedressofthewomen，whichwasverygrotesqueandunwieldy.ThefalsenotionofbeautywhichprevailshereaswellasinDenmark，Ishouldthinkveryinconvenientinsummer，asitconsistsingivingarotunditytoacertainpartofthebody，notthemostslim，whenNaturehasdoneherpart.ThisDutchprejudiceoftenleadsthemtotoilundertheweightofsometenoradozenpetticoats，which，withanenormousbasket，literallyspeaking，asabonnet，orastrawhatofdimensionsequallygigantic，almostcompletelyconcealthehumanformaswellasfacedivine，oftenworthshowing;stilltheylookedclean，andtrippedalong，asitwere，beforethewind，withaweightoftacklethatIcouldscarcelyhavelifted.ManyofthecountrygirlsImetappearedtomepretty——thatis，tohavefinecomplexions，sparklingeyes，andakindofarch，hoydenplayfulnesswhichdistinguishesthevillagecoquette.Theswains，intheirSundaytrim，attendedsomeofthesefaironesinamoreslouchingpace，thoughtheirdresswasnotsocumbersome.Thewomenseemtotaketheleadinpolishingthemannerseverywhere，thisbeingtheonlywaytobettertheircondition.
FromwhatIhaveseenthroughoutmyjourney，IdonotthinkthesituationofthepoorinEnglandismuch，ifatall，superiortothatofthesameclassindifferentpartsoftheworld;andinIrelandIamsureitismuchinferior.IalludetotheformerstateofEngland;foratpresenttheaccumulationofnationalwealthonlyincreasesthecaresofthepoor，andhardenstheheartsoftherich，inspiteofthehighlyextolledrageforalmsgiving.
YouknowthatIhavealwaysbeenanenemytowhatistermedcharity，becausetimidbigots，endeavouringthustocovertheirsins，doviolencetojustice，till，actingthedemigod，theyforgetthattheyaremen.Andthereareotherswhodonoteventhinkoflayingupatreasureinheaven，whosebenevolenceismerelytyrannyindisguise;
theyassistthemostworthless，becausethemostservile，andtermthemhelplessonlyinproportiontotheirfawning.
AfterleavingSleswick，wepassedthroughseveralprettytowns;
Itzcholparticularlypleasedme;andthecountry，stillwearingthesameaspect，wasimprovedbytheappearanceofmoretreesandenclosures.Butwhatgratifiedmemostwasthepopulation.Iwaswearyoftravellingfourorfivehours，nevermeetingacarriage，andscarcelyapeasant;andthentostopatsuchwretchedhutsasI
hadseeninSwedenwassurelysufficienttochillanyheartawaketosympathy，andthrowagloomovermyfavouritesubjectofcontemplation，thefutureimprovementoftheworld.
Thefarmhouses，likewise，withthehugestables，intowhichwedrovewhilstthehorseswereputtingtoorbaiting，wereverycleanandcommodious.Therooms，withadoorintothishall—likestableandstorehouseinone，weredecent;andtherewasacompactnessintheappearanceofthewholefamilylyingthussnuglytogetherunderthesameroofthatcarriedmyfancybacktotheprimitivetimes，whichprobablyneverexistedwithsuchagoldenlustreastheanimatedimaginationlendswhenonlyabletoseizetheprominentfeatures.
Atoneofthem，aprettyyoungwoman，withlanguishingeyesofcelestialblue，conductedusintoaveryneatparlour，andobservinghowlooselyandlightlymylittlegirlwasclad，begantopityherinthesweetestaccents，regardlessoftherosydownofhealthonhercheeks.Thissamedamselwasdressed——itwasSunday——withtasteandevencoquetry，inacottonjacket，ornamentedwithknotsofblueribbon，fancifullydisposedtogivelifetoherfinecomplexion.I
loiteredalittletoadmireher，foreverygesturewasgraceful;
and，amidsttheothervillagers，shelookedlikeagardenlilysuddenlyrearingitsheadamongstgrainandcorn—flowers.Asthehousewassmall，Igaveherapieceofmoneyratherlargerthanitwasmycustomtogivetothefemalewaiters——forIcouldnotprevailonhertositdown——whichshereceivedwithasmile;yettookcaretogiveit，inmypresence，toagirlwhohadbroughtthechildasliceofbread;bywhichIperceivedthatshewasthemistressordaughterofthehouse，andwithoutdoubtthebelleofthevillage.
Therewas，inshort，anappearanceofcheerfulindustry，andofthatdegreeofcomfortwhichshutoutmisery，inallthelittlehamletsasIapproachedHamburg，whichagreeablysurprisedme.
Theshortjacketswhichthewomenwearhere，aswellasinFrance，arenotonlymorebecomingtotheperson，butmuchbettercalculatedforwomenwhohaverusticorhouseholdemploymentsthanthelonggownsworninEngland，danglinginthedirt.
AlltheinnsontheroadwerebetterthanIexpected，thoughthesoftnessofthebedsstillharassedme，andpreventedmyfindingtherestIwasfrequentlyinwantof，toenablemetobearthefatigueofthenextday.Thechargesweremoderate，andthepeopleverycivil，withacertainhonesthilarityandindependentspiritintheirmanner，whichalmostmademeforgetthattheywereinnkeepers，asetofmen——waiters，hostesses，chambermaids，&c.，downtotheostler，whosecunningservilityinEnglandIthinkparticularlydisgusting.
TheprospectofHamburgatadistance，aswellasthefineroadshadedwithtrees，ledmetoexpecttoseeamuchpleasantercitythanIfound.
Iwasawareofthedifficultyofobtaininglodgings，evenattheinns，onaccountoftheconcourseofstrangersatpresentresortingtosuchacentricalsituation，anddeterminedtogotoAltonathenextdaytoseekforanabode，wantingnowonlyrest.Butevenforasinglenightweweresentfromhousetohouse，andfoundatlastavacantroomtosleepin，whichIshouldhaveturnedfromwithdisgusthadtherebeenachoice.
Iscarcelyknowanythingthatproducesmoredisagreeablesensations，Imeantospeakofthepassingcares，therecollectionofwhichafterwardsenlivensourenjoyments，thanthoseexcitedbylittledisastersofthiskind.Afteralongjourney，withoureyesdirectedtosomeparticularspot，toarriveandfindnothingasitshouldbeisvexatious，andsinkstheagitatedspirits.ButI，whoreceivedthecruellestofdisappointmentslastspringinreturningtomyhome，termsuchastheseemphaticallypassingcares.Knowyouofwhatmaterialssomeheartsaremade？Iplaythechild，andweepattherecollection——forthegriefisstillfreshthatstunnedaswellaswoundedme——yetneverdiddropsofanguishlikethesebedewthecheeksofinfantineinnocence——andwhyshouldtheymine，thatneverwasstainedbyablushofguilt？Innocentandcredulousasachild，whyhaveInotthesamehappythoughtlessness？Adieu！
LETTERXXIII.
ImighthavesparedmyselfthedisagreeablefeelingsIexperiencedthefirstnightofmyarrivalatHamburg，leavingtheopenairtobeshutupinnoiseanddirt，hadIgoneimmediatelytoAltona，wherealodginghadbeenpreparedformebyagentlemanfromwhomIreceivedmanycivilitiesduringmyjourney.IwishedtohavetravelledincompanywithhimfromCopenhagen，becauseIfoundhimintelligentandfriendly，butbusinessobligedhimtohurryforward，andIwrotetohimonthesubjectofaccommodationsassoonasIwasinformedofthedifficultiesImighthavetoencountertohousemyselfandbrat.
ItisbutashortandpleasantwalkfromHamburgtoAltona，undertheshadeofseveralrowsoftrees，andthiswalkisthemoreagreeableafterquittingtheroughpavementofeitherplace.
Hamburgisanill，close—builttown，swarmingwithinhabitants，and，fromwhatIcouldlearn，likealltheotherfreetowns，governedinamannerwhichbearshardonthepoor，whilstnarrowingthemindsoftherich;thecharacterofthemanislostintheHamburger.AlwaysafraidoftheencroachmentsoftheirDanishneighbours，thatis，anxiouslyapprehensiveoftheirsharingthegoldenharvestofcommercewiththem，ortakingalittleofthetradeofftheirhands—
—thoughtheyhavemorethantheyknowwhattodowith——theyareeveronthewatch，tilltheirveryeyesloseallexpression，exceptingthepryingglanceofsuspicion.
ThegatesofHamburgareshutatseveninthewinterandnineinthesummer，lestsomestrangers，whocometotrafficinHamburg，shouldpreferliving，andconsequently——soexactlydotheycalculate——spendtheirmoneyoutofthewallsoftheHamburger’sworld.Immensefortuneshavebeenacquiredbytheper—cents.arisingfromcommissionsnominallyonlytwoandahalf，butmountedtoeightortenatleastbythesecretmanoeuvresoftrade，nottoincludetheadvantageofpurchasinggoodswholesaleincommonwithcontractors，andthatofhavingsomuchmoneyleftintheirhands，nottoplaywith，Icanassureyou.Mushroomfortuneshavestartedupduringthewar;themen，indeed，seemofthespeciesofthefungus，andtheinsolentvulgaritywhichasuddeninfluxofwealthusuallyproducesincommonmindsishereveryconspicuous，whichcontrastswiththedistressesofmanyoftheemigrants，\"fallen，fallenfromtheirhighestate，\"sucharetheupsanddownsoffortune’swheel.Manyemigrantshavemet，withfortitude，suchatotalchangeofcircumstancesasscarcelycanbeparalleled，retiringfromapalacetoanobscurelodgingwithdignity;butthegreaternumberglideabout，theghostsofgreatness，withtheCroixdeSt.Louisostentatiouslydisplayed，determinedtohope，\"thoughheavenandearththeirwishescrossed.\"Stillgoodbreedingpointsoutthegentleman，andsentimentsofhonouranddelicacyappeartheoffspringofgreatnessofsoulwhencomparedwiththegrovellingviewsofthesordidaccumulatorsofcent.percent.
Situationseemstobethemouldinwhichmen’scharactersareformed：somuchso，inferringfromwhatIhavelatelyseen，thatI
meannottobeseverewhenIadd——previouslyaskingwhypriestsareingeneralcunningandstatesmenfalse？——thatmenentirelydevotedtocommerceneveracquireorlosealltasteandgreatnessofmind.
Anostentatiousdisplayofwealthwithoutelegance，andagreedyenjoymentofpleasurewithoutsentiment，embrutesthemtilltheytermallvirtueofanheroiccast，romanticattemptsatsomethingaboveournature，andanxietyaboutthewelfareofothers，asearchaftermiseryinwhichwehavenoconcern.ButyouwillsaythatI
amgrowingbitter，perhapspersonal.Ah！shallIwhispertoyou，thatyouyourselfarestrangelyalteredsinceyouhaveentereddeeplyintocommerce——morethanyouareawareof;neverallowingyourselftoreflect，andkeepingyourmind，orratherpassions，inacontinualstateofagitation？Naturehasgivenyoutalentswhichliedormant，orarewastedinignoblepursuits.Youwillrouseyourselfandshakeofftheviledustthatobscuresyou，ormyunderstanding，aswellasmyheart，deceivesmeegregiously——onlytellmewhen.Buttogofartherafield.
MadamelaFayetteleftAltonathedayIarrived，toendeavour，atVienna，toobtaintheenlargementofherhusband，orpermissiontosharehisprison.Shelivedinalodginguptwopairsofstairs，withoutaservant，hertwodaughterscheerfullyassisting;choosing，aswellasherself，todescendtoanythingbeforeunnecessaryobligations.Duringherprosperity，andconsequentidleness，shedidnot，Iamtold，enjoyagoodstateofhealth，havingatrainofnervouscomplaints，which，thoughtheyhavenotaname，unlessthesignificantwordennuibeborrowed，hadanexistenceinthehigherFrenchcircles;butadversityandvirtuousexertionsputtheseillstoflight，anddispossessedherofadevilwhodeservestheappellationoflegion.
MadameGenusalsoresidedatAltonasometime，underanassumedname，withmanyothersufferersoflessnotethoughhigherrank.Itis，infact，scarcelypossibletostiroutwithoutmeetinginterestingcountenances，everylineamentofwhichtellsyouthattheyhaveseenbetterdays.
AtHamburg，Iwasinformed，adukehadenteredintopartnershipwithhiscook，whobecomingatraiteur，theywerebothcomfortablysupportedbytheprofitarisingfromhisindustry.Manynobleinstancesoftheattachmentofservantstotheirunfortunatemastershavecometomyknowledge，bothhereandinFrance，andtouchedmyheart，thegreatestdelightofwhichistodiscoverhumanvirtue.
AtAltona，apresidentofoneoftheci—devantparliamentskeepsanordinary，intheFrenchstyle;andhiswifewithcheerfuldignitysubmitstoherfate，thoughsheisarrivedatanagewhenpeopleseldomrelinquishtheirprejudices.Agirlwhowaitstherebroughtadozendoublelouisd’orconcealedinherclothes，attheriskofherlife，fromFrance，whichshepreserveslestsicknessoranyotherdistressshouldovertakehermistress，\"who，\"sheobserved，\"wasnotaccustomedtohardships.\"Thishousewasparticularlyrecommendedtomebyanacquaintanceofyours，theauthorofthe\"AmericanFarmer’sLetters.\"Igenerallydineincompanywithhim：
andthegentlemanwhomIhavealreadymentionedisoftendivertedbyourdeclamationsagainstcommerce，whenwecomparenotesrespectingthecharacteristicsoftheHamburgers.\"Why，madam，\"saidhetomeoneday，\"youwillnotmeetwithamanwhohasanycalftohisleg;
bodyandsoul，musclesandheart，areequallyshrivelledupbyathirstofgain.Thereisnothinggenerousevenintheiryouthfulpassions;profitistheironlystimulus，andcalculationsthesoleemploymentoftheirfaculties，unlessweexceptsomegrossanimalgratificationswhich，snatchedatsparemoments，tendstillmoretodebasethecharacter，because，thoughtouchedbyhistrickingwand，theyhaveallthearts，withoutthewit，ofthewing—footedgod.\"
Perhapsyoumayalsothinkustoosevere;butImustaddthatthemoreIsawofthemannersofHamburg，themorewasIconfirmedinmyopinionrelativetothebalefuleffectofextensivespeculationsonthemoralcharacter.Menarestrangemachines;andtheirwholesystemofmoralityisingeneralheldtogetherbyonegrandprinciplewhichlosesitsforcethemomenttheyallowthemselvestobreakwithimpunityovertheboundswhichsecuredtheirself—
respect.Amanceasestolovehumanity，andthenindividuals，asheadvancesinthechaseafterwealth;asoneclasheswithhisinterest，theotherwithhispleasures：tobusiness，asitistermed，everythingmustgiveway;nay，issacrificed，andalltheendearingcharitiesofcitizen，husband，father，brother，becomeemptynames.But——butwhat？Why，tosnapthechainofthought，I
mustsayfarewell.Cassandrawasnottheonlyprophetesswhosewarningvoicehasbeendisregarded.Howmucheasieritistomeetwithloveintheworldthanaffection！
Yourssincerely.
LETTERXXIV.
MylodgingsatAltonaaretolerablycomfortable，thoughnotinanyproportiontothepriceIpay;but，owingtothepresentcircumstances，allthenecessariesoflifearehereextravagantlydear.Consideringitasatemporaryresidence，thechiefinconvenienceofwhichIaminclinedtocomplainistheroughstreetsthatmustbepassedbeforeMargueriteandthechildcanreachalevelroad.
TheviewsoftheElbeinthevicinityofthetownarepleasant，particularlyastheprospectshereaffordsolittlevariety.I
attemptedtodescend，andwalkclosetothewater’sedge;buttherewasnopath;andthesmellofglue，hangingtodry，anextensivemanufactoryofwhichiscarriedonclosetothebeach，Ifoundextremelydisagreeable.Buttocommerceeverythingmustgiveway;
profitandprofitaretheonlyspeculations——\"double——double，toilandtrouble.\"Ihaveseldomenteredashadywalkwithoutbeingsoonobligedtoturnasidetomakeroomfortherope—makers;andtheonlytreeIhaveseen，thatappearedtobeplantedbythehandoftaste，isinthechurchyard，toshadethetombofthepoetKlopstock’swife.
Mostofthemerchantshavecountryhousestoretiretoduringthesummer;andmanyofthemaresituatedonthebanksoftheElbe，wheretheyhavethepleasureofseeingthepacket—boatsarrive——theperiodsofmostconsequencetodividetheirweek.
Themovingpicture，consistingoflargevesselsandsmallcraft，whicharecontinuallychangingtheirpositionwiththetide，rendersthisnobleriver，thevitalstreamofHamburg，veryinteresting;andthewindingshavesometimesaveryfineeffect，twoorthreeturnsbeingvisibleatonce，intersectingtheflatmeadows;asuddenbendoftenincreasingthemagnitudeoftheriver;andthesilveryexpanse，scarcelygliding，thoughbearingonitsbosomsomuchtreasure，looksforamomentlikeatranquillake.
Nothingcanbestrongerthanthecontrastwhichthisflatcountryandstrandafford，comparedwiththemountainsandrockycoastI
havelatelydweltsomuchamong.InfancyIreturntoafavouritespot，whereIseemedtohaveretiredfrommanandwretchedness;butthedinoftradedragsmebacktoallthecareIleftbehind，whenlostinsublimeemotions.Rocksaspiringtowardstheheavens，and，asitwere，shuttingoutsorrow，surroundedme，whilstpeaceappearedtostealalongthelaketocalmmybosom，modulatingthewindthatagitatedtheneighbouringpoplars.NowIhearonlyanaccountofthetricksoftrade，orlistentothedistressfultaleofsomevictimofambition.
ThehospitalityofHamburgisconfinedtoSundayinvitationstothecountryhousesIhavementioned，whendishafterdishsmokesupontheboard，andtheconversationeverflowinginthemuddychannelofbusiness，itisnoteasytoobtainanyappropriateinformation.HadIintendedtoremainheresometime，orhadmymindbeenmorealivetogeneralinquiries，Ishouldhaveendeavouredtohavebeenintroducedtosomecharactersnotsoentirelyimmersedincommercialaffairs，thoughinthiswhirlpoolofgainitisnotveryeasytofindanybutthewretchedorsuperciliousemigrants，whoarenotengagedinpursuitswhich，inmyeyes，appearasdishonourableasgambling.Theinterestsofnationsarebarteredbyspeculatingmerchants.MyGod！withwhatsangfroidartfultrainsofcorruptionbringlucrativecommissionsintoparticularhands，disregardingtherelativesituationofdifferentcountries，andcanmuchcommonhonestybeexpectedinthedischargeoftrustsobtainedbyfraud？
Butthisentrenous.
Duringmypresentjourney，andwhilstresidinginFrance，Ihavehadanopportunityofpeepingbehindthescenesofwhatarevulgarlytermedgreataffairs，onlytodiscoverthemeanmachinerywhichhasdirectedmanytransactionsofmoment.Theswordhasbeenmerciful，comparedwiththedepredationsmadeonhumanlifebycontractorsandbytheswarmoflocustswhohavebattenedonthepestilencetheyspreadabroad.Thesemen，liketheownersofnegroships，neversmellontheirmoneythebloodbywhichithasbeengained，butsleepquietlyintheirbeds，termingsuchoccupationslawfulcallings;yetthelightningmarksnottheirroofstothunderconvictiononthem\"andtojustifythewaysofGodtoman.\"
WhyshouldIweepformyself？\"Take，Oworld！thymuchindebtedtear！\"Adieu！
LETTERXXV.
ThereisaprettylittleFrenchtheatreatAltona，andtheactorsaremuchsuperiortothoseIsawatCopenhagen.ThetheatresatHamburgarenotopenyet，butwillveryshortly，whentheshuttingofthegatesatseveno’clockforcesthecitizenstoquittheircountryhouses.But，respectingHamburg，Ishallnotbeabletoobtainmuchmoreinformation，asIhavedeterminedtosailwiththefirstfairwindforEngland.
ThepresenceoftheFrencharmywouldhaverenderedmyintendedtourthroughGermany，inmywaytoSwitzerland，almostimpracticable，hadnottheadvancingseasonobligedmetoaltermyplan.Besides，thoughSwitzerlandisthecountrywhichforseveralyearsIhavebeenparticularlydesiroustovisit，Idonotfeelinclinedtorambleanyfartherthisyear;nay，Iamwearyofchangingthescene，andquittingpeopleandplacesthemomenttheybegintointerestme.
Thisalsoisvanity！
DOVER.
Ileftthisletterunfinished，asIwashurriedonboard，andnowI
haveonlytotellyouthat，atthesightofDovercliffs，Iwonderedhowanybodycouldtermthemgrand;theyappearsoinsignificanttome，afterthoseIhadseeninSwedenandNorway.
Adieu！Myspiritofobservationseemstobefled，andIhavebeenwanderingroundthisdirtyplace，literallyspeaking，tokilltime，thoughthethoughtsIwouldfainflyfromlietooclosetomyhearttobeeasilyshookoff，orevenbeguiled，byanyemployment，exceptthatofpreparingformyjourneytoLondon.
Godblessyou！
MARY.
APPENDIX.
Privatebusinessandcareshavefrequentlysoabsorbedmeastopreventmyobtainingalltheinformationduringthisjourneywhichthenoveltyofthesceneswouldhaveafforded，hadmyattentionbeencontinuallyawaketoinquiry.ThisinsensibilitytopresentobjectsIhaveoftenhadoccasiontolamentsinceIhavebeenpreparingtheselettersforthepress;but，asapersonofanythoughtnaturallyconsidersthehistoryofastrangecountrytocontrasttheformerwiththepresentstateofitsmanners，aconvictionoftheincreasingknowledgeandhappinessofthekingdomsIpassedthroughwasperpetuallytheresultofmycomparativereflections.
ThepovertyofthepoorinSwedenrendersthecivilisationverypartial，andslaveryhasretardedtheimprovementofeveryclassinDenmark，yetbothareadvancing;andthegiganticevilsofdespotismandanarchyhaveinagreatmeasurevanishedbeforethemelioratingmannersofEurope.Innumerableevilsstillremain，itistrue，toafflictthehumaneinvestigator，andhurrythebenevolentreformerintoalabyrinthoferror，whoaimsatdestroyingprejudicesquicklywhichonlytimecanrootout，asthepublicopinionbecomessubjecttoreason.
Anardentaffectionforthehumanracemakesenthusiasticcharacterseagertoproducealterationinlawsandgovernmentsprematurely.Torenderthemusefulandpermanent，theymustbethegrowthofeachparticularsoil，andthegradualfruitoftheripeningunderstandingofthenation，maturedbytime，notforcedbyanunnaturalfermentation.And，toconvincemethatsuchachangeisgaininggroundwithacceleratingpace，theviewIhavehadofsocietyduringmynorthernjourneywouldhavebeensufficienthadInotpreviouslyconsideredthegrandcauseswhichcombinetocarrymankindforwardanddiminishthesumofhumanmisery.