第1章

INTRODUCTION

ByR。A。StreatfeildSinceButler’sdeathin1902hisfamehasspreadsorapidlyandtheworldoflettersnowtakessokeenininterestinthemanandhiswritingsthatnoapologyisnecessaryfortherepublicationofevenhisleastsignificantworks。IhadlongdesiredtobringoutaneweditionofhisearliestbookAFIRSTYEARINCANTERBURYSETTLEMENT，togetherwiththeotherpiecesthathewroteduringhisresidenceinNewZealand，and，thatwishbeingnowrealised，IhaveaddedasupplementarygroupofpieceswrittenduringhisundergraduatedaysatCambridge，sothatthepresentvolumeformsatolerablycompleterecordofButler’sliteraryactivityuptothedaysofEREWHON，theonlyomissionofanyimportancebeingthatofhispamphlet，publishedanonymouslyin1865，THEEVIDENCE

FORTHERESURRECTIONOFJESUSCHRISTASCONTAINEDINTHEFOUR

EVANGELISTSCRITICALLYEXAMINED。Ihavenotreprintedthis，becausepracticallythewholeofitwasincorporatedintoTHEFAIRHAVEN。

AFIRSTYEARINCANTERBURYSETTLEMENThaslongbeenoutofprint，andcopiesoftheoriginaleditionaredifficulttoprocure。Butlerprofessedtothinkpoorlyofit。Writingin1889tohisfriendAlfredMarks，whohadpickedupasecond-handcopyandfeltsomedoubtastoitsauthorship，hesaid：\"Iamafraidthelittlebookyouhavereferredtowaswrittenbyme。Mypeopleeditedmylettershome。Ididnotwritefreelytothem，ofcourse，becausetheyweremypeople。IfIwasatallfreeranywheretheycutitoutbeforeprintingit;besides，IhadnotyetshedmyCambridgeskinanditstrailiseverywhere，Iamafraid，perceptible。Ihaveneverreadthebookmyself。IdippedintoafewpageswhentheysentittomeinNewZealand，butsaw’prig’writtenuponthemsoplainlythatIreadnomoreandneverhaveandnevermeanto。Iamtoldthebooksellsfor1poundacopyinNewZealand;infact，lastautumnIknowSirWalterBullergavethatforacopyinEngland，soasaspeculationitisworth2s。6d。or3s。IstoleapassageortwofromitforEREWHON，meaningtoletitgoandneverbereprintedduringmylifetime。\"

Thismustbetakenwithagrainofsalt。ItwasButler’shabitsometimestoentertainhisfriendsandhimselfbyspeakingofhisownworkswithstudieddisrespect，aswhen，withreferencetohisownDARWIN

ANDTHEORIGINOFSPECIES，whichalsoisreprintedinthisvolume，hedescribedphilosophicaldialoguesas\"themostoffensiveform，exceptpoetryandbooksoftravelintosupposedunknowncountries，thatevenliteraturecanassume。\"ThecircumstanceswhichledtoAFIRSTYEAR

beingwrittenhavebeenfullydescribedbyMr。FestingJonesinhissketchofButler’slifeprefixedtoTHEHUMOUROFHOMER（Fifield，London，1913，Kennerley，NewYork），andIwillonlybrieflyrecapitulatethem。ButlerleftEnglandforNewZealandinSeptember，1859，remaininginthecolonyuntil1864。AFIRSTYEARwaspublishedin1863inButler’snamebyhisfather，whocontributedashortpreface，statingthatthebookwascompiledfromhisson’sjournalandletters，withextractsfromtwopaperscontributedtoTHEEAGLE，themagazineofSt。

John’sCollege，Cambridge。Thesetwopapershadappearedin1861intheformofthreearticlesentitled\"OurEmigrant\"andsigned\"Cellarius。\"

BycomparingthesearticleswiththebookaspublishedbyButler’sfatheritispossibletoarriveatsomeconclusionastotheamountofeditingtowhichButler’sprosewassubmitted。Somepassagesinthearticlesdonotappearinthebookatall;othersappearunaltered;

othersagainhavebeenslightlydoctored，apparentlywiththeobjectofrobbingthemofacertainyouthful\"cocksureness，\"whichprobablygrateduponthepaternalnerves，butseemstometocreateanatmosphereofanengagingfreshnesswhichImissintheeditedversion。Somuchofthe\"OurEmigrant\"articlesisrepeatedinAFIRSTYEARalmostifnotquiteverbatimthatitdidnotseemworthwhiletoreprintthearticlesintheirentirety。Ihave，however，includedinthiscollectiononeextractfromthelatterwhichwasnotincorporatedintoAFIRSTYEAR，thoughitdescribesatgreaterlengthanincidentreferredtoonp。74。

Fromthisextract，whichIhavecalled\"CrossingtheRangitata，\"readerswillbeabletoseeforthemselveshowfreshandspiritedButler’soriginaldescriptionsofhisadventureswere，andwillprobablyregretthathedidnottakethepublicationofAFIRSTYEARintohisownhands，insteadofallowinghisfathertohaveahandinit。

Withregardtotheotherpiecesincludedinthisvolume{1}Ihavethoughtitbesttoprefixbriefnotes，whennecessary，toeachinturnexplainingthecircumstancesinwhichtheywerewrittenand，whenitwaspossible，givingthedateofcomposition。

InpreparingthebookforpublicationIhavebeenmateriallyhelpedbyfriendsinbothhemispheres。MythanksarespeciallyduetoMissColborne-Veel，ofChrist-church，N。Z。，forcopyingsomeofButler’searlycontributionstoTHEPRESS，andinparticularforherkindnessinallowingmetomakeuseofhernoteson\"TheEnglishCricketers\";toMr。

A。T。Bartholomewforhiscourtesyinallowingmetoreprinthisarticleon\"ButlerandtheSimeonites，\"whichoriginallyappearedinTHE

CAMBRIDGEMAGAZINEof1March，1913，andthrowssointerestingalightuponacertainpassageinTHEWAYOFALLFLESH。ThearticleisherereprintedbythekindpermissionoftheeditorandproprietorofTHE

CAMBRIDGEMAGAZINE;toMr。J。F。HarrisforhisgenerousassistanceintracingandcopyingseveralofButler’searlycontributionstoTHE

EAGLE;toMr。W。H。Triggs，theeditorofTHEPRESS，forallowingmetomakeuseofmuchinterestingmatterrelatingtoButlerthathasappearedinthecolumnsofthatjournal;andlastlytoMr。HenryFestingJones，whosehelpandcounselhavebeenasinvaluabletomeinpreparingthisvolumeforthePressastheyhavebeeninpastyearsinthecaseoftheotherbooksbyButlerthatIhavebeenprivilegedtoedit。

R。A。STREATFEILD。

PREFACE

[BytheRev。ThomasButler]

Thewriterofthefollowingpages，havingresolvedonemigratingtoNewZealand，tookhispassageintheill-fatedshipBurmah，whichneverreachedherdestination，andisbelievedtohaveperishedwithallonboard。Hisberthwaschosen，andthepassage-moneypaid，whenimportantalterationsweremadeinthearrangementsofthevessel，inordertomakeroomforsomestockwhichwasbeingsentouttotheCanterburySettlement。

Thespaceleftfortheaccommodationofthepassengersbeingthuscurtailed，andthecomfortsofthevoyageseeminglikelytobemuchdiminished，thewriterwasmostprovidentiallyinducedtochangehisship，and，afewweekslater，securedaberthinanothervessel。

Theworkiscompiledfromtheactuallettersandjournalofayoungemigrant，withextractsfromtwopaperscontributedbyhimtotheEagle，aperiodicalissuedbysomeofthemembersofSt。John’sCollege，Cambridge，atwhichthewritertookhisdegree。Thisvarietyinthesourcesfromwhichthematerialsareputtogethermustbetheapologyforsomedefectsintheirconnectionandcoherence。Itishopedalsothatthecircumstancesofbodilyfatigueandactualdifficultyunderwhichtheywereoftenwritten，willexcusemanyfaultsofstyle。

Forwhateverofpresumptionmayappearingivingthislittlebooktothepublic，thefriendsofthewriteraloneareanswerable。Itwasattheirwishonlythatheconsentedtoitsbeingprinted。Itis，however，submittedtothereader，inthehopethattheunbiassedimpressionsofcoloniallife，astheyfellfreshlyonayoungmind，maynotbewhollydevoidofinterest。ItsvaluetohisfriendsathomeisnotdiminishedbythefactthattheMS。，havingbeensentouttoNewZealandforrevision，was，onitsreturn，lostintheColombo，andwasfishedupfromtheIndianOceansonearlywashedoutastohavebeenwithsomedifficultydeciphered。

Itshouldbefurtherstated，fortheencouragementofthosewhothinkoffollowingtheexampleoftheauthor，andemigratingtothesamesettlement，thathismostrecentlettersindicatethathehasnoreasontoregretthestepthathehastaken，andthattheresultsofhisundertakinghavehithertofullyjustifiedhisexpectations。

LANGARRECTORY

June29，1863

CHAPTERI

EmbarkationatGravesend——ArrestofPassenger——TilburyFort——Deal——BayofBiscayGale——BecalmedoffTeneriffe——FireintheGalley——TradeWinds——

BeltofCalms——DeathonBoard——Shark——Current——S。E。TradeWinds——

Temperature——Birds——SouthernCross——Cyclone。

Itisawindy，rainyday——coldwithal;alittleboatisputtingofffromthepieratGravesend，andmakingforashipthatislyingmooredinthemiddleoftheriver;thereinaresomehalf-dozenpassengersandalotofheterogeneous-lookingluggage;amongthepassengers，andtheownerofsomeofthemostheterogeneousoftheheterogeneousluggage，ismyself。

Theshipisanemigrantship，andIamoneoftheemigrants。

Onhavingclamberedovertheship’ssideandfoundmyselfondeck，Iwassomewhattakenabackwiththeapparentlyinextricableconfusionofeverythingonboard;theslushuponthedecks，thecrying，thekissing，themusteringofthepassengers，thestowingawayofbaggagestillleftuponthedecks，therainandthegloomyskycreatedakindofhalf-

amusing，half-distressingbewilderment，whichIcouldplainlyseetobeparticipatedinbymostoftheotherlandsmenonboard。Honestcountryagriculturistsandtheirwiveswerelookingasthoughtheywonderedwhatitwouldendin;someweresittingontheirboxesandmakingashowofreadingtractswhichwerebeingpresentedtothembyaserious-lookinggentlemaninawhitetie;butalldaylongtheyhadperusedthefirstpageonly，atleastIsawnoneturnoverthesecond。

Andsotheafternoonworeon，wet，cold，andcomfortless——nodinnerservedonaccountofthegeneralconfusion。Theemigrationcommissionerwastakingafinalsurveyoftheshipandshakinghandswiththis，that，andtheotherofthepassengers。Fresharrivalskeptcontinuallycreatingalittleadditionalexcitement——theseweresaloonpassengers，whoalonewerepermittedtojointheshipatGravesend。Byandbyacoupleofpolicemenmadetheirappearanceandarrestedoneoftheparty，aLondoncabman，fordebt。Hehadalargefamily，andasubscriptionwassoonstartedtopaythesumheowed。Subsequently，amuchlargersubscriptionwouldhavebeenmadeinordertohavehimtakenawaybyanybodyoranything。

Littlebylittletheconfusionsubsided。Theemigrationcommissionerleft;atsixwewereatlastallowedsomevictuals。Unpackingmybooksandarrangingtheminmycabinfilleduptheremainderoftheevening，savethetimedevotedtoacoupleofmeditativepipes。Theemigrantswenttobed，andwhen，ataboutteno’clock，Iwentupforalittletimeuponthepoop，IheardnosoundsavetheclangingoftheclocksfromthevariouschurchesofGravesend，thepatteringofrainuponthedecks，andtherushingoftheriverasitgurgledagainsttheship’sside。

Earlynextmorningthecocksbegantocrowvociferously。Wehadaboutsixtycoupleoftheoldestinhabitantsofthehen-roostonboard，whichwereintendedfortheconsumptionofthesaloonpassengers——adestinywhichtheyhavesincefulfilled：youngfowlsdieonshipboard，onlyoldonesstandingtheweatherabouttheline。Besidesthis，thepigsbegangruntingandthesheepgaveventtoanoccasionalfeeblebleat，theonlyexpressionofsurpriseordiscontentwhichIheardthemutterduringtheremainderoftheirexistence，fornow，alas！theyarenomore。I

rememberdreamingIwasinafarmyard，andwokeassoonasitwaslight。

Risingimmediately，Iwentondeckandfoundthemorningcalmandsulky——

norain，buteverythingverywetandverygrey。TherewasTilburyFort，sodifferentfromStanfield’sdashingpicture。TherewasGravesend，whichbutayearbeforeIhadpassedonmywaytoAntwerpwithsolittlenotionthatIshouldeverleaveitthus。Musinginthisway，andtakingalastlookatthegreenfieldsofoldEngland，soakingwithrain，andcomfortlessthoughtheythenlooked，Isoonbecameawarethatwehadweighedanchor，andthatasmallsteam-tugwhichhadbeengettinghersteamupforsomelittletimehadalreadybeguntosubtractamiteofthedistancebetweenourselvesandNewZealand。Andso，earlyinthemorningofSaturday，October1，1859，westartedonourvoyage。

Theriverwidenedouthourbyhour。Soonourlittlesteam-tugleftus。

Afairwindsprungup，andattwoo’clock，orthereabouts，wefoundourselvesoffRamsgate。Hereweanchoredandwaitedtillthetide，earlynextmorning。ThistookustoDeal，offwhichweagainremainedawholeday。OnMondaymorningweweighedanchor，andsincethenwehavehaditontheforecastle，andtrustwemayhavenofurtheroccasionforituntilwearriveatNewZealand。

Iwillnotwastetimeandspacebydescribingthehorriblesea-sicknessofmostofthepassengers，amiserywhichIdidnotmyselfexperience，noryetwillIprolongthenarrativeofourvoyagedowntheChannel——itwasshortandeventless。ThecaptainsaysthereismoredangerbetweenGravesendandtheStartPoint（wherewelostsightofland）thanallthewaybetweenthereandNewZealand。Fogsaresofrequentandcollisionsoccursooften。Ourownpassagewasfreefromadventure。IntheBayofBiscaythewaterassumedabluehueofalmostincredibledepth;there，moreover，wehadourfirsttouchofagale——notthatitdeservedtobecalledagaleincomparisonwithwhatwehavesinceexperienced，stillwelearntwhatdouble-reefsmeant。Afterthisthewindfellverylight，andcontinuedsoforafewdays。Onreferringtomydiary，Iperceivethatonthe10thofOctoberwehadonlygotasfarsouthastheforty-

firstparalleloflatitude，andlateonthatnightaheavysquallcomingupfromtheS。W。broughtafoulwindwithit。Itsoonfreshened，andbytwoo’clockinthemorningthenoiseoftheflappingsails，asthemenwerereefingthem，andofthewindroaringthroughtherigging，wasdeafening。Allnextdaywelayhovetounderaclose-reefedmain-

topsail，which，beinginterpreted，meansthattheonlysailsetwasthemain-topsail，andthatthatwasclosereefed;moreover，thattheshipwaslaidatrightanglestothewindandtheyardsbracedsharpup。

Thusashipdriftsveryslowly，andremainssteadierthanshewouldotherwise;sheshipsfewornoseas，and，thoughsherollsagooddeal，ismuchmoreeasyandsafethanwhenrunningatallnearthewind。Nextdaywedriftedduenorth，andonthethirdday，thefuryofthegalehavingsomewhatmoderated，weresumed——notourcourse，butacourseonlyfourpointsoffit。Thenextseveraldayswewerebaffledbyfoulwinds，jammeddownonthecoastofPortugal;andthenwehadanothergalefromthesouth，notsuchaoneasthelast，butstillenoughtodriveusmanymilesoutofourcourse;andthenitfellcalm，whichwasalmostworse，forwhenthewindfellthesearose，andweweretossedaboutinsuchamanneraswouldhaveforbiddenevenMorpheushimselftosleep。Andsowecrawledontill，onthemorningofthe24thofOctober，bywhichtime，ifwehadhadanythinglikeluck，weshouldhavebeencloseontheline，wefoundourselvesaboutthirtymilesfromthePeakofTeneriffe，becalmed。Thiswasalongwayoutofourcourse，whichlaythreeorfourdegreestothewestwardattheveryleast;butthesightofthePeakwasagreattreat，almostcompensatingforpastmisfortunes。TheIslandofTeneriffeliesinlatitude28degrees，longitude16degrees。Itisaboutsixtymileslong;towardsthesouthernextremitythePeaktowersupwardstoaheightof12，300feet，farabovetheotherlandoftheisland，thoughthattooisveryelevatedandrugged。Ourtelescopesrevealedserratedgulliesuponthemountainsides，andshowedusthefastnessesoftheislandinamannerthatmadeuslongtoexplorethem。Wedeceivedourselveswiththehopethatsomespeculativefishermanmightcomeouttouswithorangesandgrapesforsale。Hewouldhaverealisedahandsomesumifhehad，butunfortunatelynonewasawareoftheadvantagesoffered，andsowelookedandlongedinvain。TheotherislandswerePalma，Gomera，andFerro，allofthemlofty，especiallyPalma——allofthembeautiful。OntheseaboardofPalmawecoulddetecthousesinnumerable;itseemedtobeverythicklyinhabitedandcarefullycultivated。Thecalmcontinuingthreedays，wetookstockoftheislandsprettyminutely，clearastheywere，andrarelyobscuredevenbyapassingcloud;theweatherwasblazinghot，butbeneaththeawningitwasverydelicious;acalm，however，isamonotonousthingevenwhenanislandlikeTeneriffeisinview，andwesoontiredbothofitandofthegambolsoftheblackfish（aspeciesofwhale），andtheoperationsonboardanAmericanvesselhardby。

Ontheeveningofthethirddayalightairsprungup，andwewatchedtheislandsgraduallyretireintothedistance。Nextmorningtheywerefaintandshrunken，andbymiddaytheyweregone。Thewindwasthecommencementofthenorth-easttrades。Onthenextday（Thursday，October27，lat。27degrees40minutes）thecookwasboilingsomefatinalargesaucepan，whenthebottomburntthroughandthefatfelloutoverthefire，gotlighted，andthenranaboutthewholegalley，blazingandflamingasthoughitwouldsettheplaceonfire，whereatanalarmoffirewasraised，theeffectofwhichwaselectrical：therewasnorealdangerabouttheaffair，forafireiseasilyextinguishableonashipwhenonlyaboveboard;itiswhenitbreaksoutinthehold，isunperceived，gainsstrength，andfinallyburstsitsprison，thatitbecomesaseriousmattertoextinguishit。Thiswasquenchedinfiveminutes，butthefacesofthefemalesteeragepassengerswereawful。I

noticedaboutmanyapeculiarcontractionandelevationofoneeyebrow，whichIhadneverseenbeforeonthelivinghumanface，thoughofteninpictures。Idon’tmeantosaythatallthefacesofallthesaloonpassengerswerevoidofanyemotionwhatever。

Thetradescarriedusdowntolatitude9degrees。Theywerebutlightwhiletheylasted，andleftussoon。ThereisnowindmoreagreeablethantheN。E。trades。Thesunkeepstheairdeliciouslywarm，thebreezedeliciouslyfresh。Thevesselsitsboltupright，steeringaS。S。W。course，withthewindnearlyaft：sheglidesalongwithscarcelyanyperceptiblemotion;sometimes，inthecabin，onewouldfancyonemustbeondryland。Theskyisofagreyishblue，andtheseasilvergrey，withaveryslighthazeroundthehorizon。Thewaterisverysmooth，evenwithawindwhichwouldelsewhereraiseaconsiderablesea。

Inlatitude19degrees，longitude25degrees，wefirstfellinwithflyingfish。Theseareusuallyinflocks，andareseeningreatestabundanceinthemorning;theyflyagreatwayandverywell，notwiththekindofjumpwhichafishtakeswhenspringingoutofthewater，butwithabonafideflight，sometimesclosetothewater，sometimessomefeetaboveit。Oneflewonboard，andmeasuredroughlyeighteeninchesbetweenthetipsofitswings。OnSaturday，November5，thetradesleftussuddenlyafterathunder-storm，whichgaveusanopportunityofseeingchainlightning，whichIonlyremembertohaveseenonceinEngland。Assoonasthestormwasover，weperceivedthatthewindwasgone，andknewthatwehadenteredthatunhappyregionofcalmswhichextendsoverabeltofsomefivedegreesrathertothenorthoftheline。

Weknewthattheweatheraboutthelinewasoftencalm，buthadpicturedtoourselvesagorgeoussun，goldensunsets，cloudlesssky，andseaofthedeepestblue。Onthecontrary，suchweatherisneverknownthere，oronlybymistake。Itisagloomyregion。Sombreskyandsombresea。

Largecauliflower-headedmassesofdazzlingcumulustowerinfrontofabackgroundoflavender-colouredsatin。Therearecloudsofeveryshapeandsize。Thesailsidlyflapasthesearisesandfallswithaheavyregularbutwindlessswell。Creakingyardsandgroaningrudderseemtolamentthattheycannotgeton。Thehorizonishardandblack，savewhenblentsoftlyintotheskyupononequarteroranotherbyarapidlyapproachingsquall。Apuffofwind——\"Squaretheyards！\"——theshipsteersagain;another——shemovesslowlyonward;itblows——sheslipsthroughthewater;itblowshard——sherunsveryhard——sheflies;adropofrain——thewindlulls;threeorfourmoreofthesizeofhalfacrown——

itfallsverylight;itrainshard，andthenthewindisdead——whereontheraincomesdowninatorrentwhichthosemustseewhowouldbelieve。

Theairissohighlychargedwithmoisturethatanydampthingremainsdampandanydrythingdampens：thedecksarealwayswet。Mouldspringsupanywhere，evenontheverybootswhichoneiswearing;theatmosphereislikethatofavapourbath，andthedensecloudsseemtowardoffthelight，butnottheheat，ofthesun。Thedrearymonotonyofsuchweatheraffectsthespiritsofall，andeventhehealthofsome。

Onepoorgirlwhohadlongbeenconsumptive，butwhoapparentlyhadralliedmuchduringthevoyage，seemedtogivewaysuddenlyassoonaswehadbeenadayinthisbeltofcalms，andfourdaysafter，weloweredherovertheship’ssideintothedeep。

Onedaywehadalittleexcitementincapturingashark，whosetriangularblackfinhadbeenveeringaboutabovewaterforsometimeatalittledistancefromtheship。Iwillnotdetailaprocessthathassooftenbeendescribed，butwillcontentmyselfwithsayingthathedidnotdieunavenged，inasmuchasheadministeredaseriesofcuffsandblowstoanyonethatwasnearhimwhichwouldhavedonecredittoaprize-fighter，andseveralofthemengotseverehandlingor，Ishouldrathersay，\"tailing\"fromhim。Hewasaccompaniedbytwobeautifullystripedpilotfish——thenever-failingattendantsoftheshark。

Onedayduringthiscalmwefellinwithacurrent，whentheaspectoftheseawascompletelychanged。Itresembledafuriouslyrushingriver，andhadthesoundbelongingtoastrongstream，onlymuchintensified;

thewaves，too，tosseduptheirheadsperpendicularlyintotheair;

whilsttheemptyflour-casksdriftedaheadofusandtooneside。Itwasimpossibletolookattheseawithoutnoticingitsverysingularappearance。Soonawindspringingupraisedthewavesandobliteratedthemoremanifestfeaturesofthecurrent，butfortwoorthreedaysafterwardswecouldperceiveitmoreorless。Thereisalwaysatthistimeofyearastrongwesterlysethere。ThewindwasthecommencementoftheS。E。trades，andwaswelcomedbyallwiththegreatestpleasure。

Intwodaysmorewereachedtheline。

Wecrossedthelinefartoomuchtothewest，inlongitude31degrees6

minutes，afteraverylongpassageofnearlysevenweeks，suchasourcaptainsaysheneverrememberstohavemade;finewinds，however，nowbegantofavourus，andinanotherweekwegotoutofthetropics，havinghadthesunverticallyoverhead，soastohavenoshadow，ontheprecedingday。Strangetosay，theweatherwasneveratalloppressivelyhotafterlatitude2degreesnorth，orthereabouts。Afinewind，orindeedalightwind，atsearemovesallunpleasantheatevenofthehottestandmostperpendicularsun。Theonlytimethatwesufferedanyinconvenienceatallfromheatwasduringthebeltofcalms;whenthesunwasverticallyoverourheadsitfeltnohotterthanonanordinarysummerday。Immediately，however，uponleavingthetropicsthecoldincreasedsensibly，andinlatitude27degrees8minutesIfindthatIwasnotwarmonceallday。Sincethenwehavenoneofuseverbeenwarm，savewhentakingexerciseorinbed;whenthethermometerwasupat50degreeswethoughtitveryhighandcalleditwarm。Thereasonofthemuchgreatercoldofthesouthernthanofthenorthernhemisphereisthattheformercontainssomuchlessland。Ihavenotseenthethermometerbelow42degreesinmycabin，butamsurethatoutsideithasoftenbeenverymuchlower。Wealmostallgotchilblains，andwonderedmuchwhatthewinterofthishemispheremustbelikeifthiswasitssummer：Ibelieve，however，thatassoonaswegetoffthecoastofAustralia，whichIhopewemaydoinacoupleofdays，weshallfeelaverysensibleriseinthethermometeratonce。Hadweknownwhatwascoming，weshouldhavepreparedbetteragainstit，butweweremostofusundertheimpressionthatitwouldbewarmsummerweatheralltheway。Nodoubtwefeltitmorethanweshouldotherwiseonaccountofourhavingsolatelycrossedtheline。

Thegreatfeatureofthesouthernseasisthemultitudeofbirdswhichinhabitit。Hugealbatrosses，molimorks（asmalleralbatross），Capehens，Capepigeons，parsons，boobies，whalebirds，muttonbirds，andmanymore，wheelcontinuallyabouttheship’sstern，sometimesindozens，sometimesinscores，alwaysinconsiderablenumbers。Ifapersontakestwopiecesofporkandtiesthemtogether，leavingperhapsayardofstringbetweenthetwopieces，andthenthrowsthemintothesea，onealbatrosswillcatchholdofoneend，andanotheroftheother，eachboltshisownendandthentugsandfightswithhisrivaltilloneorotherhastodisgorgehisprize;wehavenot，however，succeededincatchingany，neitherhavewetriedtheaboveexperimentourselves。

Albatrossesarenotwhite;theyaregrey，orbrownwithawhitestreakdowntheback，andspreadingalittleintothewings。Theunderpartofthebirdisabluish-white。TheyremainwithoutmovingthewingalongertimethananybirdthatIhaveeverseen，butsomesupposethateachindividualfeatherisvibratedrapidly，thoughinverysmallspace，withoutanymotionbeingimpartedtothemainpinionsofthewing。Iaminformedthatthereisastrongmuscleattachedtoeachofthelargeplumesintheirwings。Itcertainlyisstrangehowsolargeabirdshouldbeabletotravelsofarandsofastwithoutanymotionofthewing。Albatrossesareoftenentirelybrown，butfarthersouth，andwhenold，Iamtold，theybecomesometimesquitewhite。Thestarsofthesouthernhemispherearelaudedbysome：Icannotseethattheysurpassorequalthoseofthenorthern。Some，ofcourse，arethesame。Thesoutherncrossisaverygreatdelusion。Itisn’tacross。Itisakite，akiteupsidedown，anirregularkiteupsidedown，withonlythreerespectablestarsandoneverypoorandverymuchoutofplace。Nearit，however，isatrulymysteriousandinterestingobjectcalledthecoalsack：itisablackpatchintheskydistinctlydarkerthanalltherestoftheheavens。Nostarshinesthroughit。ThepropernameforitistheblackMagellancloud。

WereachedtheCape，passingaboutsixdegreessouthofit，intwenty-

fivedaysaftercrossingtheline，averyfairpassage;andsincetheCapewehavedonewelluntilaweekago，when，afteraseriesofveryfineruns，andduringasfairabreezeasonewouldwishtosee，weweresomeofusastonishedtoseethecaptaingivingorderstoreeftopsails。

Theroyalswerestowed，sowerethetop-gallant-sails，topsailsclosereefed，mainsailreefed，andjustat10。45p。m。，asIwasgoingtobed，Iheardthecaptaingivetheordertotakeareefintheforesailandfurlthemainsail;butbeforeIwasinbedaquarterofanhourafterwards，ablastofwindcameuplikeawall，andallnightitblewaregularhurricane。Theglass，whichhaddroppedveryfastallday，andfallenlowerthanthecaptainhadeverseenitinthesouthernhemisphere，hadgivenhimwarningwhatwascoming，andhehadpreparedforit。Thatnightweranawaybeforethewindtothenorth，nextdaywelayhove-totillevening，andtwodaysafterwardsthegalewasrepeated，butwithstillgreaterviolence。Thecaptainwasallreadyforit，andaship，ifsheisagoodsea-boat，maylaughatanywindsoranywavesprovidedshebeprepared。Thedangeriswhenashiphasgotallsailsetandoneoftheseburstsofwindisshotoutather;thenhermastsgooverboardinnotime。Sailorsgenerallyestimateagaleofwindbytheamountofdamageitdoes，iftheydon’tloseamastorgettheirbulwarkswashedaway，oratanyratecarryawayafewsails，theydon’tcallitagale，butastiffbreeze;if，however，theyarecaughtevenbycomparativelyaveryinferiorsquall，andlosesomething，theycallitagale。

Thecaptainassuredusthattheseaneverassumesamuchgranderormoreimposingaspectthanthatwhichitworeonthisoccasion。Hecalledmetolookatitbetweentwoandthreeinthemorningwhenitwasatitsworst;itwascertainlyverygrand，andmadeatremendousnoise，andthewindwouldscarcelyletonestand，andmadesucharoaringintheriggingasIneverheard，buttherewasnotthatterrificappearancethatIhadexpected。Itdidn’tsuggestanyideastoone’smindaboutthepossibilityofanythinghappeningtoone。Itwasexcessivelyunpleasanttoberolledhitherandthither，andIneverfelttheforceofgravitysuchanuisancebefore;one’ssoupatdinnerwouldfaceoneatanangleof45degreeswiththehorizon，itwouldlookasthoughimmovableonasteepinclinedplane，anditrequiredthenicesthandlingtokeeptheplanetrulyhorizontal。Sowithone’stea，whichwouldalternatelyrushforwardtobedrunkandflyasthoughonewereaTantalus;sowithallone’sgoods，whichwouldbeseizedwiththemosterraticpropensities。Stillwewereunabletoimagineourselvesinanydanger，savethatoneflaxen-headedyouthoftwo-and-twentykeptwakinguphiscompanionforthepurposeofsayingtohimatintervalsduringthenight，\"Isay，isn’titawful？\"tillfinallysilencedhimwithaboot。WhileonthesubjectofstormsImayadd，thatacaptain，ifatallascientificman，cantellwhetherheisinacyclone（aswewere）

ornot，andifheisinacyclonehecantellinwhatpartofitheis，andhowhemuststeersoastogetoutofit。Acycloneisastormthatmovesinacircleroundacalmofgreaterorlessdiameter;thecalmmovesforwardinthecentreoftherotatorystormattherateoffromoneortwotothirtymilesanhour。Alargecyclone500milesindiameter，rushingfuriouslyrounditscentre，willstilladvanceinarightline，onlyveryslowlyindeed。Asmallone50or60milesacrosswillprogressmorerapidly。Onevesselsailedforfivedaysattherateof12，13，and14knotsanhourroundoneofthesecyclonesbeforethewindallthetime，yetinthefivedaysshehadmadeonly187milesinastraightline。Itellthistaleasitwastoldtome，buthavenotstudiedthesubjectsmyself。Whateversaloonpassengersmaythinkaboutagaleofwind，Iamsurethatthepoorsailorswhohavetogoaloftinitandreeftopsailscannotwelcomeitwithanypleasure。

CHAPTERII

LifeonBoard——Calm——BoatLowered——SnaresandTraps——Land——Drivenoffcoast——EnterPortLyttelton——RequisitesforaSeaVoyage——SpiritofAdventurearoused。

Beforecontinuingthenarrativeofmyvoyage，Imustturntoothertopicsandgiveyousomeaccountofmylifeonboard。Mytimehaspassedverypleasantly：Ihavereadagooddeal;IhavenearlyfinishedGibbon’sDeclineandFalloftheRomanEmpire，amstudyingLiebig’sAgriculturalChemistry，andlearningtheconcertinaontheinstrumentofoneofmyfellow-passengers。Besidesthis，Ihavehadthegettingupandmanagementofourchoir。Wepractisethreeorfourtimesaweek;wechanttheVenite，Glorias，andTeDeums，andsingonehymn。Ihavetwobasses，twotenors，onealto，andlotsofgirls，andthesingingcertainlyisbetterthanyouwouldhearinninecountryplacesoutoften。Ihavebeengladbythismeanstoformtheacquaintanceofmanyofthepoorerpassengers。Myhealthhasbeenverygoodallthevoyage：I

havenothadaday’ssea-sickness。Theprovisionsarenotveryfirst-

rate，andthedayafterto-morrow，beingChristmasDay，weshallsighfortheroastbeefofOldEngland，asourdinnerwillbesomewhatofthemeagrest。Nevermind！OnthewholeIcannotseereasontofindanygreatfault。Wehaveagoodship，agoodcaptain，andvictualssufficientinquantity。Everyonebutmyselfabusestheownerslikepickpockets，butIratherfancythatsomeofthemwillfindthemselvesworseoffinNewZealand。WhenIcomeback，ifIlivetodoso（andI

sometimesamassawonderfulfortuneinaveryshorttime，andcomebackfabulouslyrich，anddoallsortsofthings），IthinkIshalltrytheoverlandroute。Almosteveryeveningfourofushaveaverypleasantrubber，whichnevergetsstale。Soyouwillhavegatheredthat，thoughveryanxioustogettoourjourney’send，which，withluck，wehopetodoinaboutthreeweeks’time，stillthevoyagehasnotprovedatalltheunbearablethingthatsomeofusimagineditwouldhavebeen。OnegreatamusementIhaveforgottentomention——thatis，shuffle-board，agamewhichconsistsinsendingsomeroundwoodenplattersalongthedeckintosquareschalkedandnumberedfromonetoten。Thisgamewillreallykeeponequitehotinthecoldestweatherifplayedwithspirit。

Duringthemonththathaselapsedsincewritingthelastsentence，wehavehadstronggalesandlong，tediouscalms。Ononeoftheseoccasionsthecaptainloweredaboat，andalotofusscrambledovertheship’ssideandgotin，takingitinturnstorow。Thefirstthingthatsurpriseduswastheverymuchwarmertemperatureofthesea-levelthanthatondeck。Thechangewasastonishing。Ihavesufferedfromaseverecoldeversincemyreturntotheship。Ondeckitwascold，thermometer46degrees;onthesea-levelitwasdeliciouslywarm。Thenextthingthatsurpriseduswasthewayinwhichtheshipwaspitching，thoughitappearedadeadcalm。UpsheroseanddownshefelluponagreathummockyswellwhichcamelazilyupfromtheS。W。，makingourhorizonfromtheboatalluneven。Ondeckwehadthoughtitaveryslightswell;intheboatweperceivedwhataheavy，humpy，ungainlyheapofwaterskeptrisingandsinkingallroundus，sometimesblockingoutthewholeship，savethetopofthemainroyal，inthestrangestwayintheworld。Wepulledroundtheship，thinkingwehadneverinourlivesseenanythingsobeautifulasshethenlookedinthesunnymorning，whensuddenlywesawalargerippleinthewatersnotfaroff。

Atfirstthecaptainimaginedittohavebeencausedbyawhale，andwasratheralarmed，butbyandbyitturnedouttobenothingbutashoaloffish。Thenwemadeforalargepieceofseaweedwhichwehadseensomewayastern。Itextendedsometenfeetdeep，andwasahuge，tangled，loose，floatingmass;amongitnestledlittlefishesinnumerable，andaswelookeddownamiditsintricatebranchesthroughthesun-litazureofthewater，theeffectwasbeautiful。Thismassweattachedtotheboat，andwithgreatlabourandlongtimesucceededingettingituptotheship，thelittlefishesfollowingbehindtheseaweed。Itwasimpossibletoliftitonboard，sowefastenedittotheship’ssideandcameintoluncheon。Afterlunchsomeropeswerearrangedtohoisttheladiesinachairovertheship’ssideandlowerthemintotheboat——aprocesswhichcreatedmuchmerriment。Intotheboatweputhalfadozenofchampagne——

asightwhichgavecouragetooneortwotobravethedescentwhohadnotpreviouslyventuredonsuchafeat。Thentheladieswerepulledroundtheship，and，whenaboutamileaheadofher，wedrankthechampagneandhadaregularjollification。Returningtoshowthemtheseaweed，thelittlefisheslookedsogoodthatsomeonethoughtofacertainnetwherewiththedoctorcatchesoceaninsects，porpytas，clios，spinulas，etc。Withthiswecaughtinhalfanhouramidmuchscreaming，laughter，andunspeakableexcitement，nolessthan250ofthem。Theywereaboutfiveincheslong——funnylittlebluefisheswithwholesome-

lookingscales。Weatethemnextday，andtheywereexcellent。Someexpectedthatweshouldhaveswollenorsufferedsomebadeffects，butnoevilhappenedtous：notbutwhatthesedeep-seafishesarefrequentlypoisonous，butIbelievethatscalyfishesarealwaysharmless。Wereturnedbyhalf-pastthree，afteramostenjoyableday;

but，asproofoftheheatbeingmuchgreaterintheboat，Imaymentionthatoneofthepartylosttheskinfromhisfaceandarms，andthatwewereallmuchsunburnteveninsoshortatime;yetonemanwhobathedthatdaysaidhehadneverfeltsuchcoldwaterinhislife。

Wearenow（January21）ingreathopesofsightinglandinthreeorfourdays，andarereallybeginningtofeelneartheendofourvoyage：notthatIcanrealisethistomyself;itseemsasthoughIhadalwaysbeenonboardtheship，andwasalwaysgoingtobe，andasifallmypastlifehadnotbeenmine，buthadbelongedtosomebodyelse，orasthoughsomeonehadtakenmineandleftmehisbymistake。Iexpect，however，thatwhenthelandactuallycomesinsightweshallhavelittledifficultyinrealisingthefactthatthevoyagehascometoaclose。

TheweatherhasbeenmuchwarmersincewehavebeenoffthecoastofAustralia，eventhoughAustraliaissome100northofourpresentposition。Ihavenot，however，yetseenthethermometerhigherthansincewepassedtheCape。NowweareduesouthofthesouthpointofVanDiemen’sLand，andconsequentlynearerlandthanwehavebeenforsometime。WearemakingfortheSnares，twohighisletsaboutsixtymilessouthofStewart’sIsland，thesouthernmostoftheNewZealandgroup。Wesailimmediatelytothenorthofthem，andthenturnupsuddenly。TheroutewehavetotakepassesbetweentheSnaresandtheTraps——tworatherominous-soundingnames，butIbelievemoreterribleinnamethaninanyotherparticular。

January22。——YesterdayatmiddayIwassittingwritinginmycabin，whenIheardthejoyfulcryof\"Land！\"and，rushingondeck，sawtheswellingandbeautifuloutlineofthehighlandinStewart’sIsland。WehadpassedclosebytheSnaresinthemorning，buttheweatherwastoothickforustoseethem，thoughthebirdsflockedtherefrominmyriads。WethenpassedbetweentheTraps，whichthecaptainsawdistinctly，oneoneachsideofhim，fromthemaintopgallantyard。Landcontinuedinsighttillsunset，butsincethenithasdisappeared。To-day（Sunday）

wearespeedingupthecoast;theanchorsareready，andto-morrowbyearlydaylightwetrusttodropthemintheharbourofLyttelton。Wehavereason，fromcertainnewspapers，tobelievethatthemailsleaveonthe23rdofthemonth，inwhichcaseIshallhavenotimeormeanstoaddasinglesyllable。

January26。——Alasforthevanityofhumanspeculation！Afterwritingthelastparagraphthewindfelllight，thensprungupfoul，andsowewereslowlydriventotheE。N。E。OnMondaynightitblewhard，andwehadclose-reefedtopsails。Tuesdaymorningatfiveitwaslovely，andthereefswereallshakenout;alightairsprangup，andtheship，at10o’clock，hadcomeuptohercourse，whensuddenly，withoutthesmallestwarning，agalecamedownuponusfromtheS。W。likeawall。

Themenwereluckilyverysmartintakingincanvas，butatonetimethecaptainthoughtheshouldhavehadtocutawaythemizzenmast。Wewerereducedliterallytobarepoles，andlay-tounderapieceoftarpaulin，sixtimesdoubled，andabouttwoyardssquare，fastenedupinthemizzenrigging。Alldayandnightwelaythus，driftingtoleewardatthreeknotsanhour。Inthetwenty-fourhourswehaddriftedsixtymiles。

Nextdaythewindmoderated;butat12wefoundthatwewereeightymilesnorthofthepeninsulaandsome3degreeseastofit。Sowesetalittlesail，andcommencedforereachingslowlyonourcourse。Littleandlittlethewinddied，anditsoonfelldeadcalm。Thatevening（Wednesday），sometwentyalbatrossesbeingcongregatedlikeaflockofgeeseroundtheship’sstern，wesucceededincatchingsomeofthem，thefirstwehadcaughtonthevoyage。Wewouldhaveletthemgoagain，butthesailorsthinkthemgoodeating，andbeggedthemofus，atthesametimeprophesyingtwodays’foulwindforeveryalbatrosstaken。Itwasthendeadcalm，butalightwindsprangupinthenight，andonThursdaywesightedBanksPeninsula。Againthewindfelltantalisinglylight，butwekeptdrawingslowlytowardland。Inthebeautifulsunsetsky，crimsonandgold，blue，silver，andpurple，exquisiteandtranquillising，layridgebehindridge，outlinebehindoutline，sunlightbehindshadow，shadowbehindsunlight，gullyandserratedravine。Hotpuffsofwindkeptcomingfromtheland，andtherewereseveralfiresburning。Igotmyarm-chairondeck，andsmokedaquietpipewiththeintensestsatisfaction。Littlebylittlethenightdrewdown，andthenweroundedtheheadlands。Strangelydidthewavessoundbreakingagainsttherocksoftheharbour;strangely，too，lookedtheoutlinesofthemountainsthroughthenight。Presentlywesawalightaheadfromaship：wedrewslowlynear，andaswepassedyoumighthaveheardapindrop。\"Whatship’sthat？\"saidastrangevoice。——TheRomanEmperor，saidthecaptain。\"Areyouallwell？\"——\"Allwell。\"Thenthecaptainasked，\"HastheRobertSmallarrived？\"——\"No，\"wastheanswer，\"noryettheBurmah。\"{2}YoumayimaginewhatIfelt。Thenarocketwassentup，andthepilotcameonboard。HegaveusaroaringrepublicanspeechonthesubjectofIndia，China，etc。Iratheradmiredhim，especiallyashefaithfullypromisedtosendussomefreshbeefsteaksandpotatoesforbreakfast。Anorth-westersprungupassoonaswehaddroppedanchor：haditcommencedalittlesoonerweshouldhavehadtoputoutagaintosea。ThatnightIpackedaknapsacktogoonshore，butthewindblewsohardthatnoboatcouldputofftilloneo’clockintheday，atwhichhourIandoneortwootherslanded，and，proceedingtothepostoffice，weretoldtherewerenolettersforus。Iafterwardsfoundminehadgonehundredsofmilesawaytoanamesake——acrueldisappointment。

Afewwordsconcerningtheprecautionsadvisableforanyonewhoisabouttotakealongsea-voyagemayperhapsbeuseful。Firstandforemost，unlessprovidedwithacompanionwhomhewellknowsandcantrust，hemusthaveacabintohimself。Therearemanymenwithwhomonecanbeonexcellenttermswhennotcompelledtobeperpetuallywiththem，butwhomthepropinquityofthesamecabinwouldrendersimplyintolerable。

Itwouldnotevenbeparticularlyagreeabletobeawakenedduringahardlycapturedwinkofsleepbythequestion\"Isitnotawful？\"that，however，wouldbeaminorinconvenience。Noone，Iamsure，willrepentpayingafewpoundsmoreforasinglecabinwhohasseentheinconveniencethatothershavesufferedfromhavingadrunkenordisagreeablecompanioninsoconfinedaspace。Itisnotevenlikealargeroom。Heshouldhavebooksinplenty，bothlightandsolid。A

foldingarm-chairisagreatcomfort，andaverycheapone。InthehotweatherIfoundmineinvaluable，and，inthebush，itwillstillcomeinusefully。Heshouldhavealittletableandcommonchair：thesearerealluxuries，asallwhohavetriedtowrite，orseenothersattemptit，fromalowarm-chairatawashing-standwillreadilyacknowledge。

Asmalldisinfectingcharcoalfilterisverydesirable。Ship’swaterisoftenbad，andtheship’sfiltermaybeoldanddefective。Minehassecuredmeandothersduringthevoyagepureandsweet-tastingwater，whenwecouldnotdrinkthatsuppliedusbytheship。Abottleortwoofraspberryvinegarwillbefoundaluxurywhenneartheline。BytheaidofthesemeansandappliancesIhavesucceededinmakingmyselfexceedinglycomfortable。Asmallchestofdrawerswouldhavebeenpreferabletoacoupleofboxesformyclothes，andIshouldrecommendanothertogetone。Aten-poundnotewillsufficeforallthesethings。

Thebunkshouldnotbetoowide：onerollssoinroughweather;ofcourseitshouldnotbeathwartships，ifavoidable。Nooneinhisrightmindwillgosecondclassifhecan，byanyhookorcrook，raisemoneyenoughtogofirst。

Onthewhole，therearemanyadvantageousresultsfromasea-voyage。

One’sgeographyimprovesapace，andnumberlessincidentsoccurpregnantwithinteresttoalandsman;moreover，therearesuretobemanyonboardwhohavetravelledfarandwide，andonegainsagreatdealofinformationaboutallsortsofracesandplaces。Oneeffectis，perhaps，pernicious，butthiswillprobablysoonwearoffonland。Itawakensanadventurousspirit，andkindlesastrongdesiretovisitalmosteveryspotuponthefaceoftheglobe。ThecaptainyarnsaboutCaliforniaandtheChinaseas——thedoctoraboutValparaisoandtheAndes——anotherravesaboutHawaiiandtheislandsofthePacific——whileafourthwillcomparenothingwithJapan。

Theworldbeginstofeelverysmallwhenonefindsonecangethalfrounditinthreemonths;andonementallydeterminestovisitalltheseplacesbeforecomingbackagain，nottomentionagoodmanymore。

Isearchmydiaryinvaintofindsomepretermittedadventurewherewithtogiveyouathrill，or，asgoodMrs。B。callsit，\"afeel\";butIcanfindnone。Themailisgoing;Iwillwriteagainbythenext。

CHAPTERIII

AspectofPortLyttelton——AscentofHillbehindit——View——ChristChurch——

Yankeeisms——ReturntoPortLytteltonandShip——PhormiumTenax——VisittoaFarm——MoaBones。

January27，1860。——Oh，theheat！thecleartransparentatmosphere，andthedust！HowshallIdescribeeverything——thelittletownlet，forI

cannotcallittown，nestlingbeneaththebarehillsthatwehadbeenlookingatsolonginglyallthemorning——thescatteredwoodenboxesofhouses，withraggedroodsofscrubbygroundbetweenthem——thetussocksofbrowngrass——thehugewide-leafedflax，withitsnowseedystem，sometimes15or16feethigh，luxuriantandtropical-looking——thehealthyclear-complexionedmen，shaggy-bearded，rowdy-hatted，andindependent，picturesofrudehealthandstrength——thestores，supplyingallheterogeneouscommodities——themountains，risingrightbehindtheharbourtoaheightofoverathousandfeet——thevariedoutlineoftheharbournowsmoothandsleeping。Ahme！pleasantsightandfreshtosea-strickeneyes。Thehotair，too，wasverywelcomeafterourlongchill。

Wedinedatthetabled’hoteattheMitre——soforeignandyetsoEnglish——thewindowsopentotheground，lookinguponthelovelyharbour。Hithercomemoreoftheshaggyclear-complexionedmenwiththerowdyhats;lookedatthemwithaweandbefittingrespect。Muchgrievedtofindbeersixpenceaglass。Thiswasindeedserious，andwasoneofthefirstintimationswhichwereceivedthatwewereinalandwheremoneyflieslikewild-fire。

AfterdinnerIandanothercommencedtheascentofthehillbetweenportandChristChurch。Wehadnotgonefarbeforeweputourknapsacksonthebackofthepack-horsethatgoesoverthehilleveryday（poorpack-

horse！）。Itisindeedanawfulpullupthathill;yetweweresoanxioustoseewhatwasontheothersideofitthatwescarcelynoticedthefatigue：Ithoughtitverybeautiful。Itisvolcanic，brown，anddry;largeintervalsofcrumblingsoil，andthenastiff，wiry，uncompromising-lookingtussockoftheveryhardestgrass;thenperhapsaflaxbush，or，asweshouldhavesaid，aflaxplant;thenmorecrumbly，brown，drysoil，mixedwithfinebutdriedgrass，andthenmoretussocks;volcanicrockeverywherecroppingout，sometimesredandtolerablysoft，sometimesblackandabominablyhard。Therewasagreatdeal，too，ofaveryuncomfortablepricklyshrub，whichtheycallIrishman，andwhichIdonotlikethelookofatall。Therewerecattlebrowsingwheretheycould，buttomyeyesitseemedasthoughtheyhadbutpoortimesofit。Sowecontinuedtoclimb，pantingandbroilingintheafternoonsun，andmuchadmiringthelovelyviewbeneath。Atlastwenearthetop，andlookdownupontheplain，boundedbythedistantApennines，thatrunthroughthemiddleoftheisland。Nearathand，atthefootofthehill，wesawafewprettylittlebox-likehousesintrim，prettylittlegardens，stacksofcornandfields，alittleriverwithacraftortwolyingnearawharf，whilstthenearercountrywassquaredintomany-colouredfields。But，afterall，theviewwasratherofthe\"longstare\"description。Therewasagreatextentofcountry，butveryfewobjectstoattracttheeyeandmakeitrestanywhileinanygivendirection。Themountainswantedoutlines;theywerenotbrokenupintofineformsliketheCarnarvonshiremountains，butwereratheralong，blue，lofty，evenline，liketheJurafromGenevaortheBerwynfromShrewsbury。Theplains，too，werelovelyincolouring，butwouldhavebeenwonderfullyimprovedbyanobjectortwoalittlenearerthanthemountains。Imustconfessthattheview，thoughundoubtedlyfine，ratherdisappointedme。Theoneinthedirectionoftheharbourwasinfinitelysuperior。

AtthebottomofthehillwemetthecartoChristChurch;ithaltedsometimeatalittlewoodenpublic-house，andbyandbyatanother，wherewasaMethodistpreacher，whohadjustbeenreapingcornfortwopoundsanacre。Heshowedmesomehalf-dozenstalksofgiganticsize，butmostofthatalongtheroadsidewasthinandpoor。ThenwereachedChristChurchonthelittleriverAvon;itislargerthanLytteltonandmorescattered，butnotsopretty。Here，too，themenareshaggy，clear-complexioned，brown，andhealthy-looking，andwearexceedinglyrowdyhats。IputupatMr。RowlandDavis’s;andasnooneduringtheeveningseemedmuchinclinedtotalktome，Ilistenedtotheconversation。

Theall-engrossingtopicsseemedtobesheep，horses，dogs，cattle，Englishgrasses，paddocks，bush，andsoforth。Fromaboutseveno’clockintheeveningtillabouttwelveatnightIcannotsaythatIheardmuchelse。TheseweretheexactthingsIwantedtohearabout，andI

listenedtilltheyhadbeenrepeatedsomanytimesoverthatIalmostgrewtiredofthesubject，andwishedtheconversationwouldturntosomethingelse。Afewexpressionswerenotfamiliartome。WhenweshouldsayinEngland\"Certainlynot，\"itishere\"Nofear，\"or\"Don’tYOUbelieveit。\"Whentheywanttoanswerintheaffirmativetheysay\"ItisSO，\"\"ItdoesSO。\"Theword\"hum，\"too，withoutpronouncingtheU，isinamusingrequisition。Iperceivedthatthisstoodeitherforassent，ordoubt，orwonder，orageneralexpressionofcomprehensionwithoutcompromisingthehummer’sownopinion，andindeedforagreatmanymorethingsthanthese;infact，ifamandidnotwanttosayanythingatallhesaid\"humhum。\"Itisaverygoodexpression，andsavesmuchtroublewhenitsfamiliarusehasbeenacquired。BeyondthesetriflesInoticednoYankeeism，andtheconversationwasEnglishinpointofexpression。Iwasratherstartledathearingonegentlemanaskanotherwhetherhemeanttowashthisyear，andreceivetheanswer\"No。\"Isoondiscoveredthataperson’ssheeparehimself。Ifhissheepareclean，heisclean。Hedoesnotwashhissheepbeforeshearing，buthewashes;and，mostmarvellousofall，itisnothissheepwhichlamb，buthe\"lambsdown\"himself。

***

Ihavepurchasedahorse，bynameDoctor。Ihopeheisahomoeopathist。

Heisincolourbay，distinctlybrandedP。C。onthenearshoulder。I

amgladthebrandisclear，for，asyouwellknow，allhorsesarealiketomeunlessthereissomeviolentdistinctionintheircolour。ThishorseIboughtfrom——，towhomMr。FitzGeraldkindlygavemealetterofintroduction。IthoughtIcouldnotdobetterthanbuyfromapersonofknowncharacter，seeingthatmyownignoranceissoverygreatuponthesubject。Ihadtogive55pounds，but，ashorsesaregoing，thatdoesnotseemmuchoutoftheway。Heisagoodriver-horse，andverystrong。Ahorseisanabsolutenecessityinthissettlement;heisyourcarriage，yourcoach，andyourrailwaytrain。

OnFridayIwenttoPortLyttelton，meetingonthewaymanyofourlatefellow-passengers——somedespondent，somehopeful;oneortwodinnerlessandinthedumpswhenwefirstencounteredthem，butdinneredandhopefulwhenwemetthemagainonourreturn。Wechattedwithandencouragedthemall，pointingoutthegeneralhealthy，well-conditionedlookoftheresidents。Wentonboard。Howstrangelychangedtheshipappeared！Sunny，motionless，andquiet;nonoisychildren，noslatternly，slipshodwomenrollingaboutthedecks，noslush，nowashingofdirtylinenindirtierwater。Therewastheoldmateinacleanshirtatlast，leaningagainstthemainmast，andsmokinghisyardofclay;thebutcherclose——shavenandclean;thesailorssmart，andwelcominguswithasmile。Italmostlookedlikegoinghome。DinedinLytteltonwithseveralofmyfellow-passengers，whoevidentlythoughtitbesttobeoffwiththeoldlovebeforetheywereonwiththenew，i。e。

tospendalltheybroughtwiththembeforetheysetaboutacquiringanewfortune。ThenwentandhelpedMr。andMrs。R。toarrangetheirnewhouse，i。e。R。andIscrubbedthefloorsofthetworoomstheyhavetakenwithsoap，scrubbing-brushes，flannel，andwater，madethemrespectablyclean，andremovedhisboxesintotheirproperplaces。

Saturday。——Rodeagaintoport，andsawmycaseofsaddlerystillonboard。Whenridingbackthehazeobscuredthesnowyrange，andthesceneryremindedmemuchofCambridgeshire。ThedistinctivemarkswhichcharacteriseitasnotEnglisharetheoccasionalTipalms，whichhaveaverytropicalappearance，andtheluxurianceofthePhormiumtenax。Ifyoustripashredofthisleafnotthickerthananordinarypieceofstring，youwillfindithardworktobreakit，ifyousucceedindoingsoatallwithoutcuttingyourfinger。Onthewhole，iftheroadleadingfromHeathcoteFerrytoChristChurchwerethroughanavenueofmulberrytrees，andthefieldsoneithersidewerecultivatedwithIndiancornandvineyards，andifthroughtheseyoucouldcatchanoccasionalglimpseofadistantcathedralofpurewhitemarble，youmightwellimagineyourselfnearingMilan。Asitis，thecountryisasortofacrossbetweentheplainsofLombardyandthefensofNorthCambridgeshire。

Atnight，alotofNelsonandWellingtonmencametotheclub。Iwasamusedatdinnerbyacertainsailorandothers，whomaintainedthattheendoftheworldwaslikelytoarriveshortly;theprincipalargumentappearingtobe，thattherewasnomoresheepcountrytobefoundinCanterbury。Thisfactis，Ifear，onlytootrue。Withthissingleexception，theconversationwaspurelyhorsyandsheepy。Thefactis，theracesareapproaching，andtheyarethegrandannualjubileeofCanterbury。

Nextmorning，Irodesomemilesintothecountry，andvisitedafarm。

Foundtheinmates（twobrothers）atdinner。Coldboiledmuttonandbread，andcoldteawithoutmilk，pouredstraightfromahugekettleinwhichitismadeeverymorning，seemthestaplecommodities。Nopotatoes——nothinghot。Theyhadnoservant，andnocow。Thebread，whichwasverywhite，wasmadebytheyounger。Theyshowedme，withsomelittlepleasure，someoftheimprovementstheyweremaking，andtoldmewhattheymeanttodo;andIlookedatthemwithgreatrespect。

Thesemenwereasgoodgentlemen，intheconventionalsenseoftheword，asanywithwhomweassociateinEngland——Idaresay，defacto，muchbetterthanmanyofthem。Theyshowedmesomemoaboneswhichtheyhadploughedup（themoa，asyoudoubtlessknow，wasanenormousbird，whichmusthavestoodsomefifteenfeethigh），alsosomestoneMaoribattle-

axes。Theyboughtthislandtwoyearsago，andassuredmethat，eventhoughtheyhadnottouchedit，theycouldgetforitcentpercentuponthepricewhichtheythengave。

CHAPTERIV

SheeponTerms，ScheduleandExplanation——InvestmentinSheep-run——RiskofDisease，andLawsupontheSubject——InvestmentinlayingdownLandinEnglishGrass——InFarming——JourneytoOxford——JourneytotheGlaciers——

RemoteSettlers——LiteratureintheBush——BlanketsandFlies——AscentoftheRakaia——Campingout——Glaciers——Minerals——Parrots——UnexploredCol——

BurningtheFlats——Return。

February10，1860。——Imustconfesstobeingfairlypuzzledtoknowwhattodowiththemoneyyouhavesentme。Everyonesuggestsdifferentinvestments。Onesaysbuysheepandputthemoutonterms。Iwillexplaintoyouwhatthismeans。Icanbuyathousandewesfor1250

pounds;theseIshouldplaceinthechargeofasquatterwhoserunisnotfullystocked（andindeedthereishardlyarunintheprovincefullystocked）。Thispersonwouldtakemysheepforeitherthree，four，five，ormoreyears，aswemightarrange，andwouldallowmeyearly2s。

6d。perheadinlieuofwool。Thiswouldgiveme2s。6d。astheyearlyintereston25s。Besidesthishewouldallowme40percentperannumofincrease，halfmale，andhalffemale，andofthesethefemaleswouldbearincreasealsoassoonastheyhadattainedtheageoftwoyears;

moreover，theincreasewouldreturnme2s。6d。perheadwoolmoneyassoonastheybecamesheep。Attheendoftheterm，mysheepwouldbereturnedtomeasperagreement，withnodeductionfordeaths，buttheoriginalsheepwouldbe，ofcourse，somuchtheolder，andsomeofthembeingdoubtlessdead，sheepofthesameageastheywouldhavebeenwillbereturnedintheirplace。

Iwillsubjoinascheduleshowingwhat500eweswillamounttoinsevenyears;wewilldatefromJanuary，1860，andwillsupposetheyearlyincreasetobeone-halfmaleandone-halffemale。

EwesEweWetherEweWetherWethersTotalLambsLambsHoggetsHoggets1yearold}

January，}

1860}500——————————500

1861500100100——————700

1862500100100100100——900

18636001201201001001001140

18647001401401201202001420

18658201641641401403201748

18669601921921641644602132

186711242252251921926242582

Theyearlywoolmoneywouldbe：-

Poundss。d。

January，1861……2s。6d。perhead62100

1862……87100

1863……112100

1864……142100

1865……177100

1866……218100

1867……266100

Totalwoolmoneyreceived……1067100

Originalcapitalexpended……62500

Iwillexplainbrieflythemeaningofthis。

Wewillsupposethattheeweshavealltwoteethtostartwith——twoteethindicateoneyearold，fourteethtwoyears，sixteeththreeyears，eightteeth（orfullmouthed）fouryears。FortheedificationofsomeofmyreadersasignorantasIammyselfuponovinematters，Imaymentionthattheaboveteetharetobelookedforinthelowerjawandnottheupper，thefrontportionofwhichistoothless。Theewes，then，beingoneyearoldtostartwith，theywillbeeightyearsoldattheendofsevenyears。Ihaveonly，however，givenyousolongatermthatyoumayseewhatwouldbetheresultofputtingoutsheepontermseitherforthree，four，five，six，orsevenyears，accordingasyoulike。Sheepateightyearsoldwillbeintheiroldage：theywilllivenineortenyears——sometimesmore，butaneight-year-oldsheepwouldbewhatiscalledabroken-mouthedcreature;thatistosay，itwouldhavelostsomeofitsteethfromoldage，andwouldgenerallybefoundtocrawlalongatthetailendofthemob;sothatofthe2582

sheepreturnedtome，500wouldbeveryold，200wouldbesevenyearsold，200sixyearsold。Allthesewouldpassasoldsheep，andnotfetchverymuch;onemightgetabout15s。aheadforthelotallround。

Perhaps，however，youmightsellthe200sixyearsoldwiththeyoungerones。Nottooverestimate，countthese700oldsheepasworthnothingatall，andconsiderthatIhave1800sheepinprimeorder，reckoningthelambsassheep（aweanedlambbeingworthnearlyasmuchasafull-

grownsheep）。Supposethesesheeptohavegonedowninvaluefrom25s。

aheadto10s。，andattheendofmytermIrealise900pounds。SupposethatofthewoolmoneyIhaveonlyspent62pounds10s。perannum，i。e。

tenpercentontheoriginaloutlay，andthatIhavelaidbytheremainderofthewoolmoney。Ishallhavefromthewoolmoneyasurplusof630pounds（someofwhichshouldhavebeenmakingtenpercentinterestforsometime）;thatistosay，mytotalreceiptsforthesheepshouldbeattheleast1530pounds。Saythatthecapitalhadonlydoubleditselfinthesevenyears，theinvestmentcouldnotbeconsideredabadone。Theaboveisabona-fidestatementofoneofthecommonestmethodsofinvestingmoneyinsheep。IcannotthinkfromallIhaveheardthatsheepwillbelowerthan10s。ahead，stillsomeplacetheminimumvalueaslowas6s。{3}

Thequestionarises，Whatistobedonewithone’smoneywhenthetermisout？Icannotanswer;yetsurelythecolonycannotbequiteusedupinsevenyears，andonecanhardlysupposebutthat，eveninthatadvancedstateofthesettlement，meanswillnotbefoundofinvestingafewthousandpoundstoadvantage。

ThegeneralrecommendationwhichIreceiveistobuythegoodwillofarun;thiscannotbedoneunderabout100poundsforeverythousandacres。Thus，arunof20，000acreswillbeworth2000pounds。Still，ifamanhassufficientcapitaltostockitwellatonce，itwillpayhim，evenatthisprice。Wewillsupposetheruntocarry10，000sheep。

Thewoolmoneyfromtheseshouldbe2500poundsperannum。Ifamancanstartwith2000ewes，itwillnotbelongbeforehefindshimselfworth10，000sheep。Thenthesaleofsurplusstockwhichhehasnotcountrytofeedshouldfetchhiminfully1000poundsperannum;sothat，allowingthecountrytocost2000pounds，andthesheep2500pounds，andallowing1000poundsforworking，plant，buildings，dray，bullocks，andstores，and500poundsmoreforcontingenciesandexpensesofthefirsttwoyears，duringwhichtherunwillnotfullypayitsownexpenses——foracapitalof6000poundsamanmayinafewyearsfindhimselfpossessedofsomethinglikeanetincomeof2000poundsperannum。Marvellousasallthissounds，Iamassuredthatitistrue。{4}Ontheotherhand，therearerisks。Thereistheuncertaintyofwhatwillbedoneintheyear1870，whentherunslapsetotheGovernment。Thegeneralopinionappearstobe，thattheywillbere-let，atagreatlyadvancedrent，tothepresentoccupiers。Thepresentrentoflandisafarthingperacreforthefirstandsecondyears，ahalfpennyforthethird，andthreefarthingsforthefourthandeverysucceedingyear。Mostofthewastelandsintheprovincearenowpayingthreefarthingsperacre。Thereisthedangeralsoofscab。Thisappearstodependagooddealuponthepositionoftherunanditsnature。Thus，arunsituatedintheplainsoverwhichsheeparebeingconstantlydrivenfromtheprovinceofNelson，willbeinmoredangerthanoneontheremoterregionsofthebackcountry。InNelsontherearefew，ifany，lawsagainstcarelessnessinrespectofscab。InCanterburythelawsareverystringent。SheephavetobedippedthreemonthsbeforetheyquitNelson，andinspectedandre-dipped（intobaccowaterandsulphur）ontheirentryintothisprovince。Nevertheless，asinglesheepmayremaininfected，evenafterthisseconddipping。Thescabmaynotbeapparent，butitmaybreakoutafterhavingbeenamonthortwoinalatentstate。

Onesheepwillinfectothers，andthewholemobwillsoonbecomediseased;indeed，amobisconsideredunsound，andcompelledtobedipped，ifevenasinglescabbysheephavejoinedit。Dippingisanexpensiveprocess，andifaman’ssheeptrespassontohisneighbour’srunhehastodiphisneighbour’salso。Moreover，scabmaybreakoutjustbeforeorinmid-winter，whenitisalmostimpossible，ontheplains，togetfirewoodsufficienttoboilthewaterandtobacco（sheepmustbedippedwhilsttheliquidisatatemperatureofnotlessthan90

degrees），andwhentheseverityofthesou’-westersrendersitnearlycertainthatagoodfewsheepwillbelost。Lambs，too，iftherebelambsabout，willbelostwholesale。Ifthesheepbenotcleanwithinsixmonthsaftertheinformationislaid，thesumrequiredtobedepositedwithGovernmentbytheowner，onthelayingofsuchinformation，isforfeited。Thissumisheavy，thoughIdonotexactlyknowitsamount。Onedippingwouldnotberuinous，butthereisalwaysachanceofsomescabbysheephavingbeenleftupontherununmustered，andtheflockthusbecominginfectedafresh，sothatthewholeworkmayhavetobedoneoveragain。Iperceiveasortofshuddertorunthroughasheepfarmerattheverynameofthisdisease。Therearenofourlettersinthealphabetwhichheappearssomortallytodetest，andwithgoodreason。