CONTENTS
THEPYRAMIDS
THESPHINX
SAKKARA
ABYDOS
THENILE
DENDERAH
KARNAK
LUXOR
COLOSSIOFMEMNON
MEDINET-ABU
THERAMESSEUM
DEIR-EL-BAHARI
THETOMBSOFTHEKINGS
EDFU
KOMOMBOS
PHILAE
\"PHARAOH’SBED\"
OLDCAIRO
I
THEPYRAMIDS
WhydoyoucometoEgypt？Doyoucometogainadream，ortoregainlostdreamsofold;togildyourlifewiththedrowsygoldofromance，toloseacreepingsorrow，toforgetthattoomanyofyourhoursaresullen，grey，bereft？WhatdoyouwishofEgypt？
TheSphinxwillnotaskyou，willnotcare。ThePyramids，liftingtheirunnumberedstonestotheclearandwonderfulskies，haveheld，stillhold，theirsecrets;buttheydonotseekforyours。Theterrifictemples，thehot，mysterioustombs，odorousofthedeaddesiresofmen，crouchinginandundertheimmeasurablesands，willmuckyouwiththeirbroodingsilence，withtheirdimandsombrerepose。ThebrownchildrenoftheNile，thetoilerswhosingtheirantiquesongsbytheshadoofandthesakieh，thedragomans，thesmilinggoblinmerchants，theBedouinswholeadyourcamelintothepalerecessesofthedunes——thesewillnottroublethemselvesaboutyourdeepdesires，yourperhapsyearninghungeroftheheartandtheimagination。
YetEgyptisnotunresponsive。
Icamebacktoherwithdread，afterfourteenyearsofabsence——yearsfilledformewiththerumorsofherchanges。Andontheverydayofmyarrivalshecalmlyreassuredme。Shetoldmeinhersupremelymagicalwaythatallwaswellwithher。ShetaughtmeoncemorealessonIhadnotquiteforgotten，butthatIwasgladtolearnagain——
thelessonthatEgyptoweshermostsubtle，mostinnerbeautytoKheper，althoughsheoweshermarvelstomen;thatwhenhecreatedthesunwhichshinesuponher，hegaveherthelustreofherlife，andthatthosewhocometohermustbesun-worshippersiftheywouldtrulyandintimatelyunderstandthetreasureorromancethatliesheapedwithinherbosom。
Thoth，saystheoldlegend，travelledintheBoatoftheSun。IfyouwouldloveEgyptrightly，you，too，mustbeatravellerinthatbark。
Youmustnotfeartosteepyourselfinthemysteryofgold，inthemysteryofheat，inthemysteryofsilencethatseemssoftlyshoweredoutofthesun。Thesacredwhitelotusmustbeyouremblem，andHorus，thehawk-headed，mergedinRa，yourspecialdeity。ScarcelyhadIsetfootoncemoreinEgyptbeforeThothliftedmeintotheBoatofthesunandsoothedmyfearstosleep。
IarrivedinCairo。Isawnewandvasthotels;Isawcrowdedstreets;
brilliantshops;Englishofficialsdrivingimportantlyinvictorias，surelytopaydreadfulcallsofceremony;womeningigantichats，withNiagarasofveil，wavingwhiteglovesastheytalkedof——Iguess——thelatestCairenescandal。IperceivedontherighthandandontheleftwaiterscreatedinSwitzerland，hallportersmadeinGermany，Levantinetouts，determinedJewsholdingfalseantiquitiesintheirleanfingers，anEnglishBaptistminister，inawhitehelmet，drinkingchocolateonaterrace，withaguide-bookinonefist，atickettovisitmonumentsintheother。IheardScottishsoldiersplaying，\"I’llbeinScotlandbeforeye！\"andsomethingwithinme，alurkinghope，I
suppose，seemedtofounderandcollapse——butonlyforamoment。Itwasafterfourintheafternoon。Soondaywouldbedeclining。AndIseemedtorememberthatthedeclineofdayinEgypthadmovedmelongago——
movedmeasfew，rarethingshaveeverdone。WithinhalfanhourIwasalone，farupthelongroad——Ismail’sroad——thatleadsfromthesuburbsofCairotothePyramids。AndthenEgypttookmelikeachildbythehandandreassuredme。
ItwasthefirstweekofNovember，highNilehadnotsubsided，andallthelandhere，betweentheriverandthesandwheretheSphinxkeepswatch，washiddenbeneaththevastandtranquilwatersofwhatseemedatidelesssea——aseafringedwithdensemassesofdate-palms，girdledinthefardistancebypalm-treesthatkeptthewhiteandthebrownhousesintheirfeatheryembrace。Abovetheseisolatedhousespigeonscircled。Inthedistancethelateensailsofboatsglided，sometimesbehindthepalms，comingintoview，vanishingandmysteriouslyreappearingamongtheirnarrowtrunks。Hereandtherealivingthingmovedslowly，wadinghomewardthroughthissea：acamelfromthesandsofGhizeh，abuffalo，twodonkeys，followedbyboyswhoheldwithbrownhandstheirdarkblueskirtsneartheirfaces，aBedouinleaningforwardupontheneckofhisquicklysteppinghorse。AtonemomentI
seemedtolookuponthelagoonsofVenice，awateryvisionfullofaglassycalm。Thenthepalm-treesinthewater，andgrowingtoitsedge，thepalesandsthat，farastheeyescouldsee，fromGhizehtoSakkaraandbeyond，fringedittowardthewest，mademethinkofthePacific，ofpalmyislands，ofaparadisewheremengrowdrowsyinwell-being，anddreamawaytheyears。AndthenIlookedfarther，beyondthepallidlineofthesands，andIsawaPyramidofgold，thewonderKhufuhadbuilt。Asagoldenwonderitsalutedmeafterallmyyearsofabsence。LaterIwastoseeitgreyasgreysands，sulphurcolorintheafternoonfromverynearathand，blackasamonumentdrapedinfunerealvelvetforamourningunderthestarsatnight，whiteasamonstrousmarbletombsoonafterdawnfromthesand-dunesbetweenitandSakkara。Butasagoldenthingitgreetedme，asagoldenmiracleIshallrememberit。
Slowlythesunwentdown。ThesecondPyramidseemedalsomadeofgold。
Drowsilysplendiditanditsgreaterbrotherlookedsetonthegoldensandsbeneaththegoldensky。Andnowthegoldcametravelingdownfromthedeserttothewater，turningitsurelytoawinelikethewineofgoldthatfloweddownMidas’sthroat;then，asthemagicgrew，toaPactolus，andatlasttoagreatsurfacethatresembledgoldenice，hard，glittering，unbrokenbyanyrufflingwave。Theislandsrisingfromthisgoldenicewerejetblack，thehousesblack，thepalmsandtheirshadowsthatfelluponthemarvelblack。Blackwerethebirdsthatflewlowfromrooftoroof，blackthewadingcamels，blackthemeetingleavesofthetalllebbek-treesthatformedatunnelfromwhereIstoodtoMenaHouse。AndpresentlyahugeblackPyramidlaysupineonthegold，andnearitashadowybrotherseemedmorehumblethanit，butscarcelylessmysterious。Thegolddeepened，glowedmorefiercely。IntheskyabovethePyramidshungtinycloudwreathsofrosered，delicateandairyasthegossamersofTunis。AsI
turned，faroffinCairoIsawthefirstlightsglitteringacrossthefieldsofdoura，silverywhite，likediamonds。Butthesilverdidnotcallme。Myimaginationwasheldcaptivebythegold。Iwassummonedbythegold，andIwenton，undertheblacklebbek-trees，onIsmail’sroad，towardit。AndIdweltinitmanydays。
ThewondersofEgyptmanhasmadeseemtoincreaseinstaturebeforethespirits’eyesasmanlearnstoknowthembetter，totowerupeverhighertilltheimaginationisalmoststrickenbytheirloominggreatness。ClimbthegreatPyramid，spendadaywithAbouonitssummit，comedown，penetrateintoitsrecesses，standintheking’schamber，listentothesilencethere，feelitwithyourhands——isitnottangibleinthishotfastnessofincorruptibledeath？——creep，likethesurreptitiousmidgetyoufeelyourselftobe，upthoselongandsteepinclinesofpolishedstone，watchingthegloomydarknessofthenarrowwalls，thefar-offpinpointoflightbornebytheBedouinwhoguidesyou，hearthetwitterofthebatsthathavetheirdwellinginthismonstrousgloomthatmanhasmadetoshelterthethingwhoseambitioncouldneverbeembalmed，thoughthat，ofallqualities，shouldhavebeengivenhere，inthelanditdowered，alifeperpetual。
NowyouknowtheGreatPyramid。Youknowthatyoucanclimbit，thatyoucanenterit。Youhaveseenitfromallsides，underallaspects。
Itisfamiliartoyou。
No，itcanneverbethat。Withitsmorewonderfulcomrade，theSphinx，ithasthepowerpeculiar，soitseemstome，tocertainoftherockandstonemonumentsofEgypt，ofholdingitselfeveraloof，almostlikethesoulofmanwhichcanretreatatwill，liketheBedouinretreatingfromyouintotheblacknessofthePyramid，farup，orfardown，wherethepursuingstranger，unaided，cannotfollow。
II
THESPHINX
OnedayatsunsetIsawabirdtryingtoplaywiththeSphinx——abirdlikeaswallow，butwitharuddybrownonitsbreast，agleamofbluesomewhereonitswings。WhenIcametotheedgeofthesandbasinwhereperhapsKhufusawitlyingnearlyfourthousandyearsbeforethebirthofChrist，theSphinxandthebirdwerequitealone。ThebirdflewneartheSphinx，whimsicallyturningthiswayandthat，flyingnowlow，nowhigh，buteverreturningtothemagnetwhichdrewit，whichheldit，fromwhichitsurelylongedtoextractsomesignofrecognition。Ittwittered，itposeditselfinthegoldenair，withitsbrighteyesfixeduponthoseeyesofstonewhichgazedbeyondit，beyondthelandofEgypt，beyondtheworldofmen，beyondthecentreofthesuntothelastvergesofeternity。AndpresentlyitalightedontheheadoftheSphinx，thenonitsear，thenonitsbreast;andoverthebreastittrippedjerkily，withtiny，elasticsteps，lookingupward，itswholebodyquiveringapparentlywithadesireforcomprehension——adesireforsomemanifestationoffriendship。Thensuddenlyitspreaditswings，and，straightasanarrow，itflewawayoverthesandsandthewaterstowardthedoura-fieldsandCairo。
Andthesunsetwaned，andtheafterglowflamedandfaded，andtheclear，softAfricannightfell。ThepilgrimswhodaybydayvisittheSphinx，likethebird，hadgonebacktoCairo。Theyhadcome，asthebirdhadcome;asthosewhohaveconqueredEgyptcame;astheGreekscame，AlexanderofMacedon，andthePtolemies;astheRomanscame;astheMamelukes，theTurks，theFrench，theEnglishcame。
Theyhadcome——andgone。
Andthatenormousface，withthestainsofstormyredstilladheringtoitscheeks，grewdarkasthedarknessclosedin，turnedbrownasafellah’sface，asthefaceofthatfellahwhowhisperedhissecretinthesphinx’sear，butlearntnosecretinreturn;turnedblackalmostasaNubian’sface。Thenightaccentuateditsappearanceofterriblerepose，ofsuper-humanindifferencetowhatevermightbefall。InthenightIseemedtohearthefootstepsofthedead——ofallthedeadwarriorsandthesteedstheyrode，defilingoverthesandbeforetheunconquerablethingtheyperhapsthoughtthattheyhadconquered。Atlastthefootstepsdiedaway。Therewasasilence。Then，comingdownfromtheGreatPyramid，surelyIheardthelightpatterofadonkey’sfeet。TheywenttotheSphinxandceased。Thesilencewasprofound。
AndIrememberedthelegendthatMary，Joseph，andtheHolyChildoncehaltedhereontheirlongjourney，andthatMarylaidthetiredChristbetweenthepawsoftheSphinxtosleep。YetevenoftheChristthesoulwithinthatbodycouldtakenoheedatall。
Itis，Ithink，oneofthemostastoundingfactsinthehistoryofmanthatamanwasabletocontainwithinhismind，toconceive，theconceptionoftheSphinx。Thathecouldcarryitoutinthestoneisamazing。ButhowmuchmoreamazingitisthatbeforetherewastheSphinxhewasabletoseeitwithhisimagination！OnemaycriticizetheSphinx。Onemaysayimpertinentthingsthataretrueaboutit：
thatseenfrombehindatadistanceitsheadlookslikeanenormousmushroomgrowinginthesand，thatitscheeksareswelledinordinately，thatitsthick-lippedmouthislegal，thatfromcertainplacesitbearsaresemblancetoaprizebull-dog。Allthisdoesnotmatteratall。WhatdoesmatteristhatintotheconceptionandexecutionoftheSphinxhasbeenpouredasupremeimaginativepower。
HewhocreateditlookedbeyondEgypt，beyondthelifeofman。HegraspedtheconceptionofEternity，andrealizedthenothingnessofTime，andherendereditinstone。
IcanimaginethemostdeterminedatheistlookingattheSphinxand，inaflash，notmerelybelieving，butfeelingthathehadbeforehimproofofthelifeofthesoulbeyondthegrave，ofthelifeofthesoulofKhufubeyondthetombofhisPyramid。AlwaysasyoureturntotheSphinxyouwonderatitmore，youadoremorestrangelyitsrepose，yousteepyourselfmoreintimatelyinthealoofpeacethatseemstoemanatefromitaslightemanatesfromthesun。Andasyoulookonitatlastperhapsyouunderstandtheinfinite;youunderstandwhereisthebournetowhichthefiniteflowswithallitsgreatness，asthegreatNileflowsfrombeyondVictoriaNyanzatothesea。
AndasthewonderoftheSphinxtakespossessionofyougradually，sograduallydoyoulearntofeelthemajestyofthePyramidsofGhizeh。
UnliketheStepPyramidofSakkara，which，evenwhenoneisnearit，lookslikeasmallmountain，partofthelandonwhichitrests，thePyramidsofGhizehlookwhattheyare——artificialexcrescences，inventedandcarriedoutbyman，expressionsofman’sgreatness。
Exquisiteastheyareasfeaturesofthedrowsygoldenlandscapeatthesettingofthesun，Ithinktheylookmostwonderfulatnight，whentheyareblackbeneaththestars。OnmanynightsIhavesatinthesandatadistanceandlookedatthem，andalways，andincreasingly，theyhavestirredmyimagination。Theirprofoundcalm，theirclassicalsimplicity，aregreatlyemphasizedwhennodetailcanbeseen，whentheyarebutblackshapestoweringtothestars。Theyseemtoaspirethenlikeprayersprayedbyonewhohassaid，\"Goddoesnotneedanyprayers，butIneedthem。\"Intheirsimplicitytheysuggestacrowdofthoughtsandofdesires。GuydeMaupassanthassaidthatofalltheartsarchitectureisperhapsthemostaesthetic，themostmysterious，andthemostnourishedbyideas。HowtruethisisyoufeelasyoulookattheGreatPyramidbynight。Itseemstobreatheoutmystery。Theimmensebaserecallstoyouthelabyrinthwithin;thelongdescentfromthetinyslitthatgivesyouentrance，youruncertainstepsinitshot，eternalnight，yourfallsontheice-likesurfacesofitspolishedblocksofstone，thecrushingweightthatseemedtolieonyourheartasyoustoleuncertainlyon，summonedalmostasbythedesert;yoursensationofbeingforeverimprisoned，takenandhiddenbyamonsterfromEgypt’swonderfullight，asyoustoodinthecentralchamber，andrealizedthestoneoceanintowhosedepths，likesomeintrepiddiver，youhaddareddeliberatelytocome。
Andthenyoureyestraveluptheslowlyshrinkingwallstilltheyreachthedarkpointwhichisthetop。ThereyoustoodwithAbou，whospendshalfhislifeonthehigheststone，hostagesofthesun，bathedinlightandairthatperhapscametoyoufromtheGoldCoast。Andyousawmenandcamelslikeflies，andCairolikeagreyblur，andtheMokattamhillsalmostasahigherridgeofthesands。ThemosqueofMohammedAliwaslikeacupturnedover。FarbelowsleptthedeadinthatgraveyardoftheSphinx，withitspalestones，itssand，itspalm，its\"SycamoresoftheSouth，\"onceworshippedandregardedasHathor’slivingbody。Andbeyondthemononesidewerethesleepingwaters，withislandssmall，surely，asdelicateEgyptianhands，andontheotherthegreatdesertthatstretches，sotheBedouinssay，onandon\"foramarchofathousanddays。\"
Thatbaseandthatsummit——whatsuggestionandwhatmysteryintheircontrast！Whatsober，eternalbeautyinthedarklinewhichunitesthem，nowsharply，yetsoftly，definedagainstthenight，whichispurpleastheonegarmentofthefellah！Thatlineleadsthesoulirresistiblyfromearthtothestars。
III
SAKKARA
Itwasthe\"LittleChristmas\"oftheEgyptiansasIrodetoSakkara，afterseeingawonderfulfeat，theascentanddescentofthesecondPyramidinnineteenminutesbyayoungBedouincalledMohammedAliwhoveryseriouslyinformedmethattheonlyRoumiwhohadeverreachedthetopwasan\"Americangentlemens\"calledMarkTwain，onhisfirstvisittoEgypt。Onhissecondvisit，Alisaid，Mr。Twainhadabadfoot，anddeclaredhecouldnotbebotheredwiththesecondPyramid。
Hehadbeenupanddownwithoutaguide;hehaddisturbedthejackalwhichlivesnearitssummit，andwhichIsawrunninginthesunshineasAlidrewnearitslair，andhewassatisfiedtorestonhisimmortallaurels。TotheBedouinsofthePyramidsMarkTwain’sworld-
widecelebrityisowingtoonefactalone：heistheonlyRoumiwhohasclimbedthesecondPyramid。Thatiswhyhisnameisknowntoeveryone。
Itwasthe\"LittleChristmas，\"andfromthevillagesintheplaintheEgyptianscamepouringouttovisittheirdeadinthedesertcemeteriesasIpassedbytovisitthedeadinthetombsfaroffonthehorizon。Women，swathedinblack，gatheredingroupsandjumpedmonotonouslyupanddown，totheaccompanimentofstainedhandsclapping，andstrangeandwearysongs。Tinychildrenblewfuriouslyintotintrumpets，emittingsoundsthatwereterriblyEuropean。Menstrodeseriouslyby，orstoodinknotsamongthegraves，talkingvivaciouslyofthethingsofthislife。Asthesunrosehigherintheheavens，thisvisittothedeadbecameacarnivaloftheliving。
Laughterandshrillcriesofmerrimentbetokenedtheresignationofthemourners。Thesand-duneswereblackwithrunningfigures，racing，leaping，chasingoneanother，rollingoverandoverinthewarmandgoldengrains。Somesatamongthegravesandate。Somesang。Somedanced。Isawnoonepraying，afterthesunwasup。TheGreatPyramidofGhizehwastransformedinthismorninghour，andgleamedlikeamarblemountain，orlikethehillcoveredwithsaltatEl-Outaya，inAlgeria。Aswewentonitsankdownintothesands，untilatlastI
couldseeonlyasmallsectionwithitstop，whichlookedalmostaspointedasagiganticneedle。Abouwasthereonthehotstonesinthegoldeneyeofthesun——AbouwholivestorespecthisPyramid，andtoserveTurkishcoffeetothosewhoaredeterminedenoughtoclimbit。
BeforemetheStepPyramidrose，brownalmostasbronze，outofthesandsheredesolateandpallid。SoonIwasinthehouseofMarriette，betweenthelittlesphinxes。
NearCairo，althoughthedesertisrealdesert，itdoesnotgive，tome，atanyrate，theimmenseimpressionofnakedsterility，ofalmostbrassy，sun-bakedfierceness，whichoftenstrikesoneintheSaharatothesouthofAlgeria，whereatmiddayonesometimeshasafeelingofbeinglostuponawasteofmetal，gleaming，angry，tigerishincolor。
Here，inEgypt，boththepeopleandthedesertseemgentler，safer，moreamiable。YetthesetombsofSakkaraarehiddeninadesolationofthesands，peculiarlyblanchedandmournful;andasyouwanderfromtombtotomb，descendingandascending，stealingthroughgreatgalleriesbeneaththesands，creepingthroughtubesofstone，crouchingalmostonhandsandkneesinthesultrychambersofthedead，theawfulnessofthepassingawayofdynastiesandofracecomes，likeacloud，uponyourspirit。ButthiscloudliftsandfloatsfromyouinthecheerfultombofThi，thatroyalcouncillor，thatscribeandconfidant，whoselifemusthavebeenpassedinaroundofsereneactivities，amidasneering，thoughdoubtlessadmiring，population。
Intothistombofwhite，vivaciousfigures，gayalmost，thoughneverwhollyfrivolous——forthesemenwerefullofpurpose，fullofanardorthatseducesevenwhereitseemsgrotesque——ItookwithmeachildoftencalledAli，fromthevillageofKafiah;andasIlookedfromhimtothewallsaroundus，ratherthanthepassingawayoftheraces，I
realizedthepersistenceoftype。ForeverywhereIsawthefaceoflittleAli，witheveryfeatureexactlyreproduced。Herehewasbendingoverasacrifice，leadingasacredbull，feedinggeesefromacup，roastingachicken，pullingaboat，carpentering，polishing，conductingamonkeyforawalk，ormerelysittingboltuprightandsneering。TherewerelinesoflittleAliswiththeirhandsheldtotheirbreasts，theirfacesinprofile，theirkneesrigid，inthehappytombofThi;butheglancedatthemunheeding，didnotrecognizehisancestors。AndhedidnotcaretopenetrateintothetombsofMeraandMeri-Ra-ankh，intotheSerapeumandtheMestabaofPtah-hotep。Perhapshewasright。TheSerapeumisgrandinitsvastness，withitslongandhighgalleriesanditsmightyvaultscontainingthehugegranitesarcophagiofthesacredbullsofApis;Mera，redandwhite，welcomesyoufromanelevatednichebenignly;Ptah-hotep，priestofthefifthdynasty，receivesyou，seatedatatablethatresemblesarakewithlong，yellowteethstandingonitshandle，anddrinkingstifflyacupofwine。Youseeuponthewallnearby，withsympathy，apatientbeingpliedbyanakedandevidentlyanunyieldingphysicianwithmedicinefromajarthatmighthavebeenvisitedbyMorgiana，amusicianplayinguponaninstrumentlikeahugeandstringlessharp。ButitisthehappytombofThithatlingersinyourmemory。Inthattomboneseesproclaimedwithamarvellousingenuityandexpressivenessthejoyandtheactivityoflife。Thimusthavelovedlife;lovedprayerandsacrifice，lovedsportandwar，lovedfeastingandgaiety，laborofthehandsandofthehead，lovedthearts，themusicoffluteandharp，singingbythelingeringandplaintivevoiceswhichseemtoexpresstheessenceoftheeast，lovedsweetodors，lovedsweetwomen——dowenotseehimsittingtoreceiveofferingswithhiswifebesidehim？——lovedtheclearnightsandtheradiantdaysthatinEgyptmakegladtheheartofman。Hemusthavelovedthesplendidgiftoflife，anduseditcompletely。AndsolittleAlihadveryrighttomakehissoleobeisanceatThi’sdelicioustomb，fromwhichdeathitselfseemsbanishedbythesoftandembracingradianceofthealmostlivingwalls。
Thisdelicatecheerfulness，aquiteairygaietyoflife，isoftencombinedinEgypt，andmostbeautifullyandhappilycombined，withtremendoussolidity，heavyimpressiveness，ahugenessthatiswell-
nightragic;anditsuppliesarelieftoeye，tomind，tosoul，thatissweetandrefreshingasthetrickleofatarantellafromareedfluteheardundertheshadowsofatempleofHercules。Lifeshowersuswithcontrasts。Art，whichgivestousasecondandamorewithdrawnlife，openingtousadoorthroughwhichwepasstoourdreams，maywellimitatelifeinthis。
IV
ABYDOS
Throughalongandgoldennoontide，andonintoanafternoonwhoseopulenceofwarmthandlightitseemedcouldneverwane，Isatalone，orwanderedgentlyquitealone，intheTempleofSetiI。atAbydos。
HereagainIwasinaplaceofthedead。InEgyptoneeverseeksthedeadinthesunshine，blackvaultsinthelandofthegold。ButhereinAbydosIwasaccompaniedbywhiteness。ThegeneraleffectofSeti’smightytempleisthatitisawhitetemplewhenseeninfullsunshineandbeneathaskyofblindingblue。Inanaridplaceitstands，justbeyondanEgyptianvillagethatisamazeofdust，ofchildren，ofanimals，andflies。Thelastblindhousesofthevillage，brownasbrownpaper，confrontitonamound，andasIcametowarditagirl-
childswathedinpurplewithear-rings，andatwistoforangehandkerchiefabovehereyes，fullofcloudandfire，leanedfromaroof，sinuouslyasayoungsnake，towatchme。Oneachside，descending，werewhite，ruinedwalls，stretchedoutlikedefacedwhitearmsofthetempletoreceiveme。Istoodstillforamomentandlookedatthenarrow，severelysimpledoorway，atthetwelvebrokencolumnsadvancedoneitherside，whiteandgreyishwhitewiththeirrightangles，theironcepaintedfiguresnowalmostwhollycolorless。
HerelaytheOsirians，thoseblesseddeadofthelandofEgypt，whoworshippedtheJudgeoftheDead，theLordoftheUnderworld，andwhohopedforimmortalitythroughhim——Osiris，husbandofIsis，Osiris，receiverofprayers。Osiristhesunwhowillnotbeconqueredbynight，buteternallyrisesagain，andsoisthesymboloftheresurrectionofthesoul。ItissaidthatSet，thepowerofEvil，torethebodyofOsirisintofourteenfragmentsandscatteredthemovertheland。ButmultitudesofworshippersofOsirisbelievedhimburiednearAbydosand，likethosewholovedthesweetsongsofHafiz，theydesiredtobeburiednearhimwhomtheyadored;andsothisplacebecameaplaceofthedead，aplaceofmanyprayers，awhiteplaceofmanylongings。
Iwasgladtobealonethere。Theguardianleftmeinperfectpeace。I
happilyforgothim。Isatdownintheshadowofacolumnuponitsmightyprojectingbase。Theskywasblindingblue。Greatbeeshummed，likebourdons，throughthesilence，deepeningthealmostheavycalm。
Thesecolumns，architraves，doorways，howmighty，howgrandlystrongtheywere！AndyetsoonIbegantobeawarethatevenhere，wheresurelyoneshouldreadonlytheBookoftheDead，orbenddowntothehotgroundtolistenifperchanceonemighthearthedeadthemselvesmurmuringoverthechaptersofBeatificationfardownintheirhiddentombs，therewasalikeness，agentlegaietyoflife，asinthetombofThi。Theeffectofsoliditywasimmense。Thesecolumnsbulged，almostlikegreatfruitsswollenoutbytheirheadystrengthofblood。
Theytoweredupincrowds。Theheavyroof，brokeninplacesmostmercifullytoshowsquaresandoblongsofthatperfect，callingblue，waslikeafrowningbrow。AndyetIwaswithgrace，withgentleness，withlightness，becauseintheplaceofthedeadIwasagainwiththehappy，livingwalls。Aboveme，ontheroof，therewasagleamofpalestblue，liketheblueIhavesometimesseenatmorningontheIonianseajustwhereitmeetstheshore。Thedoublerowsofgiganticcolumnsstretchedaway，tallalmostasforesttrees，torightofmeandtoleft，andwereshutinbymassivewalls，strongasthewallsofafortress。Andonthesecolumns，andonthesewalls，deadpaintersandgravershadbreathedthesweetbreathoflife。Hereinthesun，formealone，asitseemed，apopulationfollowedtheiroccupations。
Menwalked，andkneeled，andstood，somewhiteandclothed，somenude，someredastheredman’schildthatleapedbeyondthesea。Andherewasthelotus-flowerheldinreverenthands，nottherose-lotus，buttheblossomthattypifiedtherisingagainofthesun，andthat，wornasanamulet，signifiedthegiftofeternalyouth。Andherewashawk-
facedHorus，andhereapriestofferingsacrificetoagod，beliefinwhomhaslongsincepassedaway。Akingrevealedhimselftome，adoringPtah，\"Fatherofthebeginnings，\"whoestablisheduponearth，myfiguresthought，theeverlastingjustice，andagainatthekneesofAmenburningincenseinhishonor。IsisandOsirisstoodtogether，andsacrificewasmadebeforetheirsacredbark。AndSetiworshippedthem，andSeshta，goddessoflearning，wroteinthebookofeternitythenameoftheking。
Thegreatbeeshummed，movingslowlyinthegoldenairamongthemightycolumns，passingslowlyamongtheserecordsofliveslongover，butwhichseemedstilltobe。AndIlookedatthelotus-flowerswhichthelittlegrotesquehandswereholding，hadbeenholdingforhowmanyyears——theflowersthattypifiedtherisingagainofthesunandthedivinegiftofeternalyouth。AndIthoughtofthebirdandtheSphinx，thethingthatwaswhimsicalwooingthethingthatwasmighty。
AndIgazedattheimmensecolumnsandatthelightandlittlefiguresallaboutme。BirdandSphinx，delicatewhimsicality，calmandterrificpower！InEgyptthedeadmenhavecombinedthem，andthecombinationhasanirresistiblefascination，weavesaspellthatentrancesyouinthesunshineandbeneaththeblindingblue。AtAbydosIknewit。AndIlovedthecolumnsthatseemedblownoutwithexuberantstrength，andIlovedthedelicatewhitewallsthat，likethelotus-flower，givetotheworldayouththatseemseternal——ayouththatisneverfrivolous，butthatisfullofthedivine，andyetpathetic，animationofhappylife。
Thegreatbeeshummedmoredrowsily。Isatquitestillinthesun。Andthenpresently，movedbysomepromptinginstinct，Iturnedmyhead，and，faroff，throughthenarrowportalofthetemple，Isawthegirl-
childswathedinpurplestilllying，sinuouslyasayoungsnake，uponthepalm-woodroofabovethebrownearthwalltowatchmewithhereyesofcloudandfire。
Anduponme，likecloudandfire——cloudofthetombsandthegreattemplecolumns，fireofthebrilliantlifepaintedandengraveduponthem——therestolethespellofEgypt。
V
THENILE
IdonotfindinEgyptanymorethestrangenessthatonceamazed，andatfirstalmostbewilderedme。StrangerbyfarisMorocco，strangerthecountrybeyondBiskra，nearMogar，roundTouggourt，evenaboutElKantara。ThereIfeelveryfaraway，asachildfeelsdistancefromdear，familiarthings。IlooktothehorizonexpectantofIknownotwhatmagicaloccurrences，whatmysteries。Iamawareofthesummonstoadvancetomarvellouslands，wheremarvellousthingsmusthappen。IamtakenbythatsensationofalmosttremblingmagicwhichcametomewhenfirstIsawamiragefaroutintheSahara。ButEgypt，thoughitcontainssomanymarvels，hasnolongerformethemarvellousatmosphere。Itskeynoteisseductiveness。
InEgyptonefeelsverysafe。Smilingpolicemeninclothesofspotlesswhite——emblematic，surely，oftheirinnocence！——seemtobeeverywhere，standingcalmlyinthesun。Verygentle，verytender，althoughperhapsnotverytrue，aretheBedouinsatthePyramids。UptheNilethefellaheensmileaskindlyasthepolicemen，smileprotectinglyuponyou，asiftheywouldsay，\"Allahhasplacedusheretotakecareoftheconfidingstranger。\"Noferociousdemandsformoneyfalluponmyears;onlyanoccasionalsuggestionissubtlyconveyedtomethateventhepoormustliveandthatIamimmenselyrich。Anamiable，analmostenticingseductivenessseemsemanatingfromthefertilesoil，shininginthegoldenair，gleamingsoftlyintheambersands，dimplinginthebrown，themauve，thesilvereddiesoftheNile。Itstealsuponone。
Itripplesoverone。Itlapsoneasifwithwarmandscentedwaves。A
sortoflustrouslanguorovertakesone。Inphysicalwell-beingonesinksdown，andwithwideeyesonegazesandlistensandenjoys，andthinksnotofthemorrow。
Thedahabiyeh——herveryname，the/Loulia/，hasagentle，seductive，cooingsound——driftsbroadsidetothecurrentwithfurledsails，orglidessmoothlyonbeforeanamiablenorthwindwithsailsunfurled。
Uponthebloomybanks，richbrownincolor，thebrownmenstoopandstraightenthemselves，andstoopagain，andsing。Thesungleamsontheircopperskins，whichlookpolishedandmetallic。Crouchedinhisnetbehindthedrowsyoxen，thelittleboycirclesthelivelongdaywiththesakieh。Andthesakiehraisesitswailing，waywardvoiceandsingstotheshadoof;andtheshadoofsingstothesakieh;andtheliftedwaterfallsandflowsawayintothegreenwildernessofdourathat，likeaminiatureforest，spreadsoneveryhandtothelowmountains，whichdonotperturbthespirit，asdotheironmountainsofAlgeria。Andalwaysthesunisshining，andthebodyisdrinkinginitswarmth，andthesoulisdrinkinginitsgold。Andalwaystheearsarefullofwarmanddrowsyandmonotonousmusic。Andalwaystheeyesseethelinesofbrownbodies，onthebrownriver-banksabovethebrownwaters，bending，straightening，bending，straightening，withanexquisitelyprecisemonotony。Andalwaysthe/Loulia/seemstobedrifting，soquietlysheslipsup，ordown，thelevelwaterway。
Andonedrifts，too;onecanbutdrift，happily，sleepily，forgettingeverycare。FromAbydostoDenderahonedrifts，andfromDenderahtoKarnak，toLuxor，toallthemarvelsonthewesternshore;andontoEdfu，toKomOmbos，toAssuan，andperhapsevenintoNubia，toAbu-
Simbel，andtoWadi-Halfa。LifeontheNileisalongdream，goldenandsweetashoneyofHymettus。ForIletthe\"divineserpent，\"whoatPhilaemaybeseenissuingfromhercharmedcavern，takemeveryquietlytoseetheabodesofthedead，thehallsofthevanished，uponhergreenandsterileshores。Iknownothingofthebustling，shriekingsteamerthatdefiesher，churningintoangrywavesherwatersfortheedificationofthosewhowould\"do\"Egyptandbegonebeforetheyknowher。
Ifyouareinahurry，donotcometoEgypt。TohurryinEgyptisaswrongastofallasleepinWallstreet，ortositintheGreekTheatreatTaormina，reading\"HowtoMakeaFortunewithaCapitalofFiftyPounds。\"
VI
DENDERAH
FromAbydos，homeofthecultofOsiris，JudgeoftheDead，IcametoDenderah，thegreattempleofthe\"LadyoftheUnderworld，\"asthegoddessHathorwassometimescalled，thoughshewasusuallyworshippedastheEgyptianAphrodite，goddessofjoy，goddessofloveandloveliness。ItwasearlymorningwhenIwentashore。Thesunwasabovetheeasternhills，andaboy，cladinaropeofplaitedgrass，sentmehalfshylythegreeting，\"Mayyourdaybehappy！\"
Youthis，perhaps，themostdivineofallthegiftsofthegods，asthosewhoworethelotus-blossomamuletbelievedthousandsofyearsago，andDenderah，appropriately，isaveryyoungEgyptiantemple，probably，indeed，theyoungestofallthetemplesontheNile。Itsyouthfulness——itisonlyabouttwothousandyearsofage——identifiesithappilywiththehappinessandbeautyofitspresidingdeity，andasIrodetowarditonthecanal-bankintheyoungfreshnessofthemorning，IthoughtofthegoddessSafekhandofthesacredPersea-
tree。WhenSafekhinscribeduponaleafofthePersea-treethenameofkingorconqueror，hegainedeverlastinglife。Wasitthelifeofyouth？Aneverlastinglifeofmiddleagemightbeadoubtfulbenefit。
AndthenmentallyIadded，\"unlessonelivedinEgypt。\"Forheretheyearsdropfromone，andeverygoldenhourbringstoonesurelyanotherdropofthewondrousessencethatsetstimeatdefianceandcharmssadthoughtsaway。
UnlikeWhiteAbydos，WhiteDenderahstandsapartfromhabitations，inastillsolitudeuponablackenedmound。FromfaroffIsawthefa鏰de，large，bare，andsober，rising，inanakednessascompleteasthatofAphroditerisingfromthewave，outoftheplainofbrown，alluvialsoilthatwasbrokenhereandtherebyasharpgreenofgrowingthings。Therewassomethingofsadnessinthescene，andagainIthoughtofHathorasthe\"LadyoftheUnderworld，\"somedeep-eyedbeing，withapalebrow，hairlikethenight，andyearning，wistfulhandsstretchedoutinsupplication。Therewasahushuponthisplace。
Theloudandvehementcryoftheshadoof-mandiedaway。ThesakiehdronedinmyearsnomorelikedistantSicilianpipesplayingatNatale。Ifeltabreathfromthedesert。And，indeed，thedesertwasnear——thatrealisticdesertwhichsuggeststothetravellerapproachestothesea，sothatbeyondeachpalliddune，ashedrawsnearit，hehalfexpectstohearthelappingofthewaves。Presently，when，havingascendedthatmarvellousstaircaseoftheNewYear，walkinginprocessionwiththepriestsuponitswallstowardtheraysofRa，I
cameoutuponthetempleroof，andlookeduponthedesert——uponsheenysands，almostlikeslopesofsatinshininginthesun，uponpalersandsinthedistance，holdinganArab/camposanto/，inwhichrosethelittlecreamycupolasofasheikh’stomb，surroundedbyacreamywall，thoselittlecupolasgavetomeafeelingofthereal，theirresistibleAfricasuchasIhadnotknownsinceIhadbeeninEgypt;
andIthoughtIheardinthedistancetheceaselesshumofprayingandpraisingvoices。
\"Godhathrewardedthefaithfulwithgardensthroughwhichflowrivulets。Theyshallbeforevertherein，andthatistherewardofthevirtuous。\"
ThesensationofsolemnitywhichovertookmeasIapproachedthetempledeepenedwhenIdrewclosetoit，whenIstoodwithinit。Inthefirsthall，mighty，magnificent，fullofenormouscolumnsfromwhichfacesofHathoroncelookedtothefourpointsofthecompass，I
foundonlyonefacealmostcomplete，savedfromthefuryoffanaticsbytheprotectionofthegoddessofchance，inwhomthemodernEgyptiansoimplicitlybelieves。Inshapeitwasadelicateoval。Inthelongeyes，aboutthebrow，thecheeks，therewasastrainedexpressionthatsuggestedtomemorethanagravity——almostananguish——ofspirit。AsIlookedatit，IthoughtofEleanoraDuse。WasthistheidealofjoyinthetimeofthePtolemies？Joymayberapturous，oritmaybeserene;butcoulditeverbelikethis？Thepale，deliciousbluethathereandthere，intinysections，brokethealmosthaggard，greyishwhitenessofthisfirsthallwiththeroofofblack，likebitsofaneveningskyseenthroughtinywindow-slitsinasombreroom，suggestedjoy，wasjoysummedupincolor。ButHathor’sfacewaswearifulandsad。
Fromthegloomoftheinnerhallscameasound，loud，angry，menacing，asIwalkedon，asoundofmenaceandanodor，heavyanddeathlike。
Onlyinthefirsthallhadthosebuildersanddecoratorsoftwothousandyearsagobeenmovedbytheirconceptionofthegoddesstohailher，toworshipher，withthepurityofwhite，withthesweetgaietyofturquoise。Orsoitseemsto-day，whenthepassionofChristianityagainstHathorhasspentitselfanddied。NowChristianscometoseekwhatChristianCoptsdestroyed;wanderthroughthedesertedcourts，desirousoflookinguponthefacesthathavelongsincebeenhackedtopieces。Amorebenignspiritinformsourworld，but，alas！Hathorhasbeensacrificedtodeviltriesofold。Anditiswell，perhaps，thathertempleshouldbesad，likeaplaceofsilentwaitingforthegloriesthataregone。
Witheverystepmymelancholygrew。Encompassedbygloomyodors，assailedbytheclamourofgiganticbats，whichflewfuriouslyamongthemonstrouspillarsneararoofominousasastorm-cloud，myspiritwashauntedbythesadeyesofHathor，whichgazeforeverfromthatcolumninthefirsthall。Weretheyalwayslikethat？Oncethatfacedweltwithacrowdofworship。Andalltheotherfaceshavegone，andallthegloryhaspassed。And，likesomanyoftheliving，thegoddesshaspaidforhersplendors。Thependulumswung，andwheremenadored，menhatedher——herthegoddessofloveandloveliness。Andasthehumanfacechangeswhenterrorandsorrowcome，IfeltasifHathor’sfaceofstonehadchangeduponitscolumn，lookingtowardtheNile，inobediencetotheanguishinherheart;IfeltasifDenderahwereamajestichouseofgrief。SoImustalwaysthinkofit，dark，tragic，andsuperb。TheEgyptiansoncebelievedthatwhendeathcametoaman，thesoulofhim，whichtheycalledtheBa，wingeditswaytothegods，butthat，movedbyasweetunselfishness，itreturnedsometimestohistomb，togivecomforttothepoor，desertedmummy。Uponthelidsofsarcophagiitissometimesrepresentedasabird，flyingdownto，orrestingupon，themummy。AsIwentonwardinthedarkness，amongthecolumns，overtheblocksofstonethatformthepavements，seeingvaguelythesacredboatsuponthewalls，HorusandThoth，thekingbeforeOsiris;asImountedanddescendedwiththeprieststoroofandfloor，Ilonged，insteadoftheclamourofthebats，tohearthelightflutterofthesoftwingsoftheBaofHathor，flyingfromParadisetothissadtempleofthedeserttobringhercomfortinthegloom。I
thoughtofherasapoorwoman，sufferingasonlywomencaninloneliness。
InthemuseumofCairothereisthemummyof\"theladyAmanit，priestessofHathor。\"Sheliesthereuponherback，withherthinbodyslightlyturnedtowardtheleftside，asifinanefforttochangeherposition。Herheadiscompletelyturnedtothesameside。Hermouthiswideopen，showingalltheteeth。Thetongueislollingout。Upontheheadthethin，brownhairmakesalineabovethelittleear，andismingledatthebackoftheheadwithfalsetresses。Roundtheneckisamassofornaments，ofamuletsandbeads。Therightarmandhandliealongthebody。Theexpressionof\"theladyAmanit\"isverystrange，andverysubtle;foritcombineshorror——whichimpliesactivity——withaprofound，animpenetrablerepose，farbeyondthereachofalldisturbance。InthetempleofDenderahIfanciedtheladyAmanitministeringsadly，eventerribly，toalonelygoddess，movinginfearthroughaneternalgloom，dyingatlastthere，overwhelmedbytaskstooheavyforthattinybody，theultra-sensitivespiritthatinhabitedit。Andnowshesleeps——onefeelsthat，asonegazesatthemummy——veryprofoundly，thoughnotyetverycalmly，theladyAmanit。
Buthergoddess——stillshewakesuponhercolumn。
WhenIcameoutatlastintothesunlightofthegrowingday，I
circledthetemple，skirtingitsgigantic，cornicedwalls，fromwhichatintervalstheheadsandpawsofrestinglionsprotrude，toseeanotherwomanwhosefameforlovelinessandseductionisalmostaslegendaryasAphrodite’s。ItisfittingenoughthatCleopatra’sformshouldbegravenuponthetempleofHathor;fitting，also，thatthoughIfoundherinthepresenceofdeities，andinthecompanyofherson，Caesarion，herface，whichisinprofile，shouldhavenothingofHathor’ssadimpressiveness。This，nodoubt，isnottherealCleopatra。Nevertheless，thisfacesuggestsacertainself-complacentcrueltyandsensualityessentiallyhuman，andutterlydetachedfromalldivinity，whereasinthefaceofthegoddessthereisasomethingremote，andevendistantlyintellectual，whichcallstheimaginationto\"thefieldsbeyond。\"
AsIrodebacktowardtheriver，Isawagaintheboycladintheropeofplaitedgrass，andagainhesaid，lessshyly，\"Mayyourdaybehappy！\"Itwasakindlywish。InthedawnIhadfeltittobealmostaprophecy。ButnowIwashauntedbythefaceofthegoddessofDenderah，andIrememberedthelegendofthelovelyLais，who，whenshebegantoage，coveredherselffromtheeyesofmenwithaveil，andwenteverydayateveningtolookuponherstatue，inwhichthegeniusofPraxiteleshadrenderedpermanentthebeautythewomancouldnotkeep。Oneevening，hangingtothestatue’spedestalbyagarlandofredroses，thesculptorfoundamirror，uponthepolisheddiskofwhichweretracedthesewords：
\"Lais，OGoddess，consecratestotheehermirror：nolongerabletoseetherewhatshewas，shewillnotseetherewhatshehasbecome。\"
MyHathorofDenderah，thesad-eyeddwelleronthecolumninthefirsthall，hadsheamirror，wouldsurelyhangit，asLaishunghers，atthefootofthepedestaloftheEgyptianAphrodite;hadsheaveil，wouldsurelycoverthefacethat，solitaryamongthecruelevidencesofChristianferocity，silentlysaystothegloomycourts，totheshiningdesertandtheNile：
\"OnceIwasworshipped，butIamworshippednolonger。\"
VII
KARNAK
Buildingshavepersonalities。Somefascinateasbeautifulwomenfascinate;somecharmasachildmaycharm，naively，simply，butirresistibly。Some，likeconquerors，menofbloodandiron，withoutbowelsofmercy，pitilessanddetermined，strikeawetothesoul，mingledwiththealmostgaspingadmirationthatpowerwakesinman。
Somebringasenseofheavenlypeacetotheheart。Some，likecertaintemplesoftheGreeks，bytheirimmensedignity，speaktothenaturealmostasmusicspeaks，andchangeanxietytotrust。Sometugatthehiddenchordsofromanceandrouseatremblingresponse。Someseemtobeminglingtheirtearswiththetearsofthedead;sometheirlaughterwiththelaughteroftheliving。Thetraveller，sailinguptheNile，holdsintercoursewithmanyofthesedifferentpersonalities。Heissad，perhaps，asIwaswithDenderah;dreamsinthesunwithAbydos;museswithLuxorbeneaththelittletaperingminaretwhencethecalltoprayerdropsdowntobeansweredbytheangelusbell;fallsintoareverieinthe\"thinkingplace\"ofRamesesII。，neartothegiantthatwasoncethemightiestofallEgyptianstatues;eagerlywakestothefascinationofrecordatDeir-el-Bahari;
worshipsinEdfu;byPhilaeiscarriedintoarealmofdelicatemagic，whereengineersarenot。Eachpromptshimtoadifferentmood，eachwakesinhisnatureadifferentresponse。AndatKarnakwhatishe？
Whatmoodenfoldshimthere？Ishesad，thoughtful，awed，orgay？
Anoldladyinahelmet，andotherthingsconsiderednodoubtbyherassuitedtoEgyptratherthantoherself，remarkedinmyhearing，withaScotchaccentandanairofsummingup，thatKarnakwas\"veryniceindeed。\"Thereshewaswrong——Scotchandwrong。Karnakisnotnice。NotemplethatIhaveseenuponthebanksoftheNileisnice。
AndKarnakcannotbesummedupinaphraseorinmanyphrases;cannotevenbeadequatelydescribedinfewormanywords。
LongagoIsawitlightedupwithcoloredfiresonenightfortheKhedive，itsravagedmagnificencetintedwithroseandlividgreenandblue，itspylonsglitteringwithartificialgold，itspopulationofstatues，itsobelisks，andcolumns，changingfromthingsofdreamstothingsofday，fromtwilightmarvelstoshadowyspecters，andfromthesetohardandpiercingrealitiesatthecruelwillofpigmiescrouchingbyitswalls。Now，aftermanyyears，Isawitfirstquietlybymoonlightafterwatchingthesunsetfromthesummitofthegreatpylon。ThatwasapageantworthmorethantheKhedive’s。
Iwasintheair;hadsomethingofthereleasedfeelingIhaveoftenknownuponthetowerofBiskra，lookingouttowardeveningtotheSaharaspaces。ButhereIwasnotconfrontedwithanimmensityofnature，butwithagleamingriverandanimmensityofman。Beneathmewasthenativevillage，intheheartofdaylightdustyandunkempt，butnowbecomingchargedwithvelvetybeauty，withthesoftandheavymysterythatateveningisbornamonggreatpalm-trees。Alongthepaththatledfromit，comingtowardtheavenueofsphinxeswithram’s-
headsthatwatchforeverbeforethetempledoor，agreatwhitecamelstepped，itsrideratinychildwithaclose，whitecapuponhishead。
Thechildwassingingtothegloryofthesunset，orwasittothegloryofAmun，\"thehiddenone，\"oncethelocalgodofThebes，towhomthegrandesttempleintheworldwasdedicated？Ilistentothechildish，quaveringvoice，twitteringalmostlikeabird，andonewordalonecameuptome——thewordonehearsinEgyptfromallthelipsthatspeakandsing：fromtheNubiansroundtheirfiresatnight，fromthelittleboatmenofthelowerreachesoftheNile，fromtheBedouinsofthedesert，andthedonkeyboysofthevillages，fromthesheikhwhoreadsone’sfutureinwaterspiltonaplate，andtheBisharinwithbutteredcurlswhorunstosellonebeadsfromhistentamongthesand-dunes。
\"Allah！\"thechildwassingingashepasseduponhisway。
Pigeonscircledabovetheirprettytowers。Thebatscameout，asiftheyknewhowpreciousistheirblackateveningagainsttheethereallemoncolor，theorangeandthered。Thelittleobeliskbeyondthelastsphinxontheleftbegantochange，asinEgyptallthingschangeatsunset——pylonanddustybush，colossusandbakedearthhovel，sycamore，andtamarisk，statueandtrottingdonkey。Itlookedlikeamysteriousfingerpointedinwarningtowardthesky。TheNilebegantogleam。Uponitssteelandsilvertorchesofamberflamewerelighted。
TheLibyanmountainsbecamespectralbeyondthetombsofthekings。
Thetiny，roughcupolasthatmarkagraveclosetothesphinxes，indaytimedingyandpoor，nowseemedmadeofsomesplendidmaterialworthytoroofthemummyofaking。FaroffapooloftheNile，thatfromherelookedlikealittlepalm-fringedlake，turnedruby-red。TheflagsfromthestandardofLuxor，amongtheminarets，flewoutstraightagainstaskythatwaspaleasaprimrosealmostcoldinitsamazingdelicacy。
Iturned，andbehindmethemoonwasrisen。AlreadyitssilverraysfellupontheruinsofKarnak;uponthethicketsoflotuscolumns;
uponsolitarygatewaysthatnowgiveentrancetonocourts;uponthesacredlake，withitsreeds，wheretheblackwater-fowlwereasleep;
uponslopingwalls，shoredupbyenormousstanchions，likeribsofsomeprehistoricleviathan;uponsmallchambers;uponfallenblocksofmasonry，fragmentsofarchitraveandpavement，ofcapitalandcornice;
anduponthepeopleofKarnak——thosefascinatingpeoplewhostillclingtotheirhabitationintheruins，faithfulthroughmisfortune，affectionatewithasteadfastnessthatdefiesthecrueltyofTime;
uponthelittle，lonelywhitesphinxwiththewoman’sfaceandthedownward-slopingeyesfullofsleepyseduction;uponRamesesII。，withthefaceofakindlychild，notofaking;upontheSphinx，bereftofitscompanion，whichcrouchesbeforethekioskofTaharga，theKingofEthiopia;uponthosetwowhostandtogetherasifdevoted，yetbytheirattitudesseemtoexpresscharactersdiametricallyopposed，greymenandvivid，theonewithfoldedarmscallingtoPeace，theotherwitharmsstretcheddowninagestureofcrudedetermination，summoningWar，asiffromtheunderworld;uponthegranitefootandankleinthetempleofRamesesIII。，whichintheirperfection，liketheheadlessVictoryinParis，andtheNiobideChiaramontiintheVatican，suggestagreatpersonalitythatoncemetwithisnottobeforgotten：upontheseandtheircompanions，whowouldnotforsakethehallsandcourtswhereoncetheydweltwithsplendor，wherenowtheydwellwithruinthatattractsthegapingworld。Themoonwasrisen，butthewestwasstillfullofcolorandlight。Itfaded。Therewasapause。Onlyabarofdullred，holdingahintofbrown，bywherethesunhadsunk。Andminutespassed——minutesformefullofsilentexpectation，whilethemoonlightgrewalittlestronger，afewmoresilverraysslippeddownupontheruins。Iturnedtowardtheeast。Andthencamethatcuriouscrescendoofcolorandoflightwhich，inEgypt，succeedsthediminuendoofcolorandoflightthatisthepreludetothepausebeforetheafterglow。Everythingseemedtobeinsubtlemovement，heavingasabreastheaveswiththebreath;swellingslightly，asifinanefforttobemore，toattractattention，togaininsignificance。Palethingsbecamelivid，holdingapparentlysomeunder-brightnesswhichpartlypenetrateditsenvelope，butabrightnessthatwaswhiteandalmostfrightful。Blackthingsseemedtoglowwithblackness。Theairquivered。Itssilencesurelythrilledwithsound——withsoundthatgreweverlouder。
IntheeastIsawaneffect。TothewestIturnedforthecause。Thesunsetlightwasreturning。HoruswouldnotpermitTumtoreignevenforafewbriefmoments，andKhuns，thesacredgodofthemoon，wouldbewitnessofaconflictinthatlovelywesternregionoftheoceanoftheskywherethebarkofthesunhadfloatedawaybeneaththemountainrimuponthered-and-orangetides。Theafterglowwaslikeanexquisitespasm，isalwayslikeanexquisitespasm，abeautiful，almostdesperateeffortendinginthequietdarknessofdefeat。Andthroughthatspasmodiceffortaworldlivedforsomeminuteswithalifethatseemedunreal，startling，magical。Colorreturnedtothesky——colorethereal，tremblingasifitknewitoughtnottoreturn。Yetitstayedforawhileandevenglowed，thoughitlookedalwaysstrangelypurified，andfullofacrystalcoldness。Thebirdsthatflewagainstitwerenolongerbirds，butdark，movingornaments，devisedsurelybyasupremeartisttoheightenhereandtherethebeautyofthesky。Everythingthatmovedagainsttheafterglow——man，woman，child，camelanddonkey，dogandgoat，languishingbuffalo，andplunginghorse——becameatonceanornament，invented，Ifancied，byageniustoemphasize，byrelievingit，thecolorinwhichtheskywasdrowned。AndKhunswatchedserenely，asifheknewtheend。Andalmostsuddenlythemiraculouseffortfailed。Thingsagainrevealedtheirtruth，whethercommonplaceornot。ThatpooloftheNilewasnomorearedjewelsetinafeatherypatternofstrangedesign，butonlywaterfadingfrommysightbeyondagroupofpalms。Andthatbelowmewasonlyacamelgoinghomeward，andthatachildleadingabronze-coloredsheepwithacurlycoat，andthatadusty，flat-roofedhovel，notthefairyhomeofjinn，ortheabodeofsomemagicianworkingmarvelswiththesun-rayshehadgatheredinhisnet。Theairwasnolongerthrillingwithmusic。Thebreastthathadheavedwithadivinebreathwasstillasthebreastofacorpse。
AndKhunsreignedquietlyovertheplainsofKarnak。
Karnakhasnodistinctivepersonality。Builtundermanykings，itsruinsareascomplexaswereprobablyonceitscompletedtemples，withtheirshrines，theirtowers，theircourts，theirhypo-stylehalls。AsIlookeddownthateveninginthemoonlightIsaw，softenedandmademoretouchingthaninday-time，thosealluringcomplexities，broughtbythenightandKhunsintoaunitythatwasbothtenderandsuperb。
Massesofmasonrylayjumbledinshadowandinsilver;giganticwallscastsharplydefinedgloom;obeliskspointedsignificantlytothesky，seeming，astheyalwaysdo，tobemurmuringamessage;hugedoorwaysstooduplikegiantsunafraidoftheirlonelinessandyetpatheticinit;herewasawatchingstatue，thereonethatseemedtosleep，seenfromafar。YonderQueenHatshepsu，whowroughtwondersatDeir-el-
Bahari，andwhoismorefamiliarperhapsasHatasu，hadlefttheretraces，andnearer，totheright，RamesesIII。hadmadeatemple，surelyforthebirds，sofondtheyareofit，sopertinaciouslytheyhauntit。RamesesII。，mutilatedandimmense，stoodonguardbeforetheterrifichallofSetiI。;andbetweenhimandmyplatformintheairrosethesolitarylotuscolumnthatpreparesyouforthewonderofSeti’shall，whichotherwisemightalmostoverwhelmyou——unlessyouareaScotchladyinahelmet。AndKhunshadhistempleherebytheSphinxofthetwelfthRameses，andPtah，whocreated\"thesuneggandthemoonegg，\"andwhowassaid——onlysaid，alas！——tohaveestablishedonearththe\"everlastingjustice，\"hadhis，andstilltheirstonesreceivethesilvermoon-raysandwakethewonderofmen。ThothmesIII。，ThothmesI。，Shishak，whosmotethekneelingprisonersandvanquishedJeroboam，MedamutandMut，AmenhotepI。，andAmenhotepII。