Mr。WallisBudgesaysinhisbookontheantiquitiesofEgypt：\"ItwouldbeunjusttothememoryofagreatmanandaloyalservantofHatshepsu，ifweomittedtomentionthenameofSenmut，thearchitectandoverseerofworksatDeir-el-Bahari。\"ByallmeansletSenmutbementioned，andthenlethimbeutterlyforgotten。Aradiantqueenreignshere——aqueenoffantasyandsplendor，andofthatdivineshallowness——refinedfrivolityliterallycutintothemountain——whichisthenoteofDeir-el-Bahari。Andwhatacleverbackground！Oh，Hatshepsuknewwhatshewasdoingwhenshebuilthertemplehere。ItwasnotthesolemnSenmut（heworeabeard，I’msure）whochosethatbackground，ifIknowanythingofwomen。
LongbeforeIvisitedDeir-el-BahariIhadlookedatitfromafar。Myeyeshadbeendrawntoitmerelyfromitssituationrightunderneaththemountains。Ihadasked：\"Whatdothoselittlepillarsmean？Andarethoselittledoors？\"Ihadpromisedmyselftogothere，asonepromisesoneselfa/bonnebouche/tofinishahappybanquet。AndIhadrealizedthesubtlety，essentiallyfeminine，thathadplacedatemplethere。AndMenu-Hotep’stemple，perhapsyousay，wasitnottherebeforethequeen’s？Thenhemusthavepossessedasubtletypurelyfeminine，orhavebeenadvisedbyoneofhiswivesinhisbuildingoperations，orbysomefavoritefemaleslave。Blundering，unsubtlemanwouldprobablythinkthatthebestwaytoattractandtofixattentiononanyobjectwastomakeitmuchbiggerthanthingsnearandaroundit，tosetupagiantamongdwarfs。
NotsoQueenHatshepsu。Moreartfulinhergeneration，shesetherlongbutlittletempleagainsttheprecipicesofLibya。Andwhatistheresult？Simplythatwheneveronelookstowardthemonesays，\"Whatarethoselittlepillars？\"Orifoneismoreinstructed，onethinksaboutQueenHatshepsu。Theprecipicesareasnothing。Awoman’swilehasblottedthemout。
Andyethowgrandtheyare！Ihavecalledthemtiger-coloredprecipices。Andtheysuggesttawnywildbeasts，fierce，bredinalandthatisthepreyofthesun。Everyshadeoforangeandyellowglowsandgrowspaleontheirbosses，intheirclefts。Theyshootoutturretsofrockthatblazelikeflamesintheday。Theyshowgreatteeth，likethetigerwhenanyonedrawsnear。And，likethetiger，theyseemperpetuallyinformedbyaspiritthatisangry。Blakewroteofthetiger：
\"Tiger，tiger，burningbrightIntheforestsofthenight。\"
Thesetiger-precipicesofLibyaareburningthings，avidlikebeastsofprey。Buttherestoredapricot-coloredpillarsarenotafraidoftheirimpendingfury——furyofabeastbaffledbyatrickylittlewoman，almostitseemstome;andstilllessafraidarethewhitepillars，andthebrilliantpaintingsthatdecoratethewallswithin。
AsmanypeopleinthesadbutlovelyislandsoffthecoastofScotlandbelievein\"doubles，\"astheoldclassicwritersbelievedinman’s\"genius，\"sotheancientEgyptianbelievedinhis\"Ka，\"orseparateentity，asortofspiritualotherself，tobepropitiatedandministeredto，presentedwithgifts，andservedwithenergyandardor。
OnthistempleofDeir-el-BahariisthesceneofthebirthofHatshepsu，andtherearetwobabies，theprincessandherKa。ForthisimaginedKa，whenagreatqueen，longafter，shebuiltthistemple，orchapel，thatofferingsmightbemadethereoncertainappointeddays。
FortunateKaofHatshepsutohavehadsocheerfuladwelling！
LivelinesspervadesDeir-el-Bahari。Iremember，whenIwasonmyfirstvisittoEgypt，lunchingatThebeswithMonsieurNavilleandMr。
Hogarth，andafterwardgoingwiththemtowatchthediggingawayofthemassesofsandandrubbishwhichconcealedthisgraciousbuilding。
Irememberthesongsofthehalf-nakedworkmentoilingandsweatinginthesun。andIrememberseeingawhitetemplewallcomeupintothelightwithallthepaintedfiguressurelydancingwithjoyuponit。
Andtheyaresurelydancingstill。
Hereyoumaysee，brilliantasyesterday’spictureanywhere，fascinatinglydecorativetreesgrowingbravelyinlittlepots，redpeopleofferingincensewhichispileduponmoundslikemountains，Ptah-Seket，Osirisreceivingaroyalgiftofwine，thequeeninthecompanyofvariousdivinities，andtheterribleordealofthecows。
Thecowsarebeingweighedinscales。Therearethreeofthem。Oneisaphilosopher，andreposeswithanairthatsays，\"Eventhislastindignityofbeingweighedagainstmywillcannotperturbmysoaringspirit。\"Buttheothertwosittingup，lookasapprehensiveasoldladiesinarockingexpress，expectantofanaccident。Thevividnessofthecolorsinthistempleisquitewonderful。Andmuchofitsgreatattractioncomesratherfromitsposition，andfromthem，thanessentiallyfromitself。AtDeir-el-Bahari，whatthelongshellcontains——itshappymurmuroflife——ismorefascinatingthantheshell。There，insteadofbeingupliftedoroverawedbyform，wearerejoicedbycolor，bythehighvivacityofarrestedmovement，bythestorythatcolorandmovementtell。Andoverallthereisthebright，blue，paintedsky，studded，almostdistractedlystudded，withaplethoraoftheyellowstarstheEgyptiansmadelikestarfish。
Therestoredapricot-coloredcolumnsoutsidelookunhappilysuburbanwhenyouarenearthem。Thewhitecolumnswiththeirarchitravesaremorepleasanttotheeyes。Thenichesfullofbrighthues，thearchedchapels，thesmallwhitestepsleadingupwardtoshallowsanctuaries，thesmallblackfoxesfacingeachotheronlittleyellowpedestals——
attractonelikethedetailsandamusingornamentsofacleverwoman’sboudoir。Throughthismostcharacteristictempleonerovesinagailyattentivemood，feelingallthetimeHatshepsu’sfascination。
Youmayseeher，ifyouwill，alittleladyonthewall，withafacedecidedlysensual——along，straightnose，thicklips，anexpressionratherdeterminedthanagreeable。HermotherlooksasSemiticasaJewmoneylenderinBrickLane，London。Herhusband，ThothmesII。，hasaweakandpoor-spiritedcountenance——decidedlyanaccomplishedperformeronthesecondviolin。Themotherwearsonherheadasnake，nodoubtacobra-di-capello，thesymbolofhersovereignty。Thothmesiscladinaloin-cloth。Andagod，withasleepyexpressionandaveryfish-likehead，appearsinthisgroupofpersonagestoofferthekeyoflife。Anotherpaintingofthequeenshowsheronherkneesdrinkingmilkfromthesacredcow，withanintentandgreedyfigure，andanextraordinarilysensualandexpressiveface。Thatshewaswellguardedissurelyprovedbyabravedisplayofhersoldiers——redmenonawhitewall。Fulloflifeandgaietyallinarowtheycome，holdingweapons，and，apparently，branches，andadvancingwithagaitoftriumphthattellsof\"spaciousdays。\"Andattheirheadisanofficer，wholooksback，muchlikeamoderndrillsergeant，toseehowhismenaremarching。
Inthesouthernshrineofthetemple，cutintherockasisthenorthernshrine，oncemoreIfoundtracesofthe\"LadyoftheUnder-
World。\"ForthisshrinewasdedicatedtoHathor，thoughthewholetemplewassacredtotheThebangodAmun。Uponacolumnweretheremainsofthegoddess’sface，withabroadbrowandlong，largeeyes。
Somefanatichadhackedawaythemouth。
ThetombofHatshepsuwasfoundbyMr。TheodoreM。Davis，andthefamous/Vache/ofDeir-el-BaharibyMonsieurNavilleaslatelyas1905。ItstandsinthemuseumatCairo，butforeveritwillbeconnectedinthemindsofmenwiththetiger-coloredprecipicesandtheColonnadesofThebes。BehindtheruinsofthetempleofMentu-
HotepIII。，inachapelofpaintedrock，theVache-Hathorwasfound。
Itisnoteasytoconveybyanydescriptiontheimpressionthismarvellousstatuemakes。Manyofusloveourdogs，ourhorses，someofusadoreourcats;butwhichofuscanthink，withoutasmile，ofworshippingacow？YetthecowwastheEgyptianAphrodite’ssacredanimal。Undertheformofacowshewasoftenrepresented。Andinthestatuesheispresentedtousasalimestonecow。Andpositivelythiscowistobeworshipped。
Sheisshownintheactapparentlyofsteppinggravelyforwardoutofasmallarchedshrine，thewallsofwhicharedecoratedwithbrilliantpaintings。Hercolorisredandyellowishred，andiscoveredwithdarkblotchesofaverydarkgreen，whichlookalmostblack。Onlyoneortwoareofabluishcolor。Herheightismoderate。Istandaboutfivefootnine，andIfoundthatonherpedestalthelineofherbackwasaboutlevelwithmychest。Thelowerpartofthebody，muchofwhichisconcealedbytheunderblockoflimestone，iswhite，tingedwithyellow。Thetailisred。Abovethehead，openandclosedlotus-
flowersformahead-dress，withthelunardiskandtwofeathers。Andthelonglotus-stalksflowdownoneachsideofthenecktowardtheground。Atthebackofthishead-dressareascarabandacartouche。
Thegoddessisadvancingsolemnlyandgently。Awonderfulcalm，amatchless，serenedignity，enfoldher。
Inthebodyofthiscowoneisable，indeedoneisalmostobliged，tofeelthesoulofagoddess。Theincredibleisaccomplished。ThedeadEgyptianmakestheironic，theskepticalmodernworldfeeldeityinalimestonecow。Howisitdone？Iknownot;butitisdone。Geniuscandonearlyeverything，itseems。UnderthechinofthecowthereisastandingstatueoftheKingMentu-Hotep，andbeneathherthekingkneelsasaboy。Wonderfullyexpressiveandsolemnlyrefinedisthecow’sface，whichisofdarkcolor，likethecolorofalmostblackearth——earthfertilizedbytheNile。Dignified，dominating，almostbutjustnotstern，stronglyintelligent，and，throughitsbeautifulintelligence，entirelysympathetic（\"tounderstandall，istopardonall\"），thisface，oncethoroughlyseen，completelynoticed，canneverbeforgotten。Thisisoneofthemostbeautifulstatuesintheworld。
WhenIwasatDeir-el-BahariIthoughtofitandwishedthatitstillstoodthereneartheColonnadesofThebesunderthetiger-coloredprecipices。AndthenIthoughtofHatshepsu。Surelyshewouldnotbrookarivalto-daynearthetemplewhichshemade——arivallonglostandlongforgotten。Isnotherinfluencestillthereupontheterracedplatforms，amongtheapricotandthewhitecolumns，nearthepaintingsofthelandofPunt？Diditnotwhispertotheantiquaries，eventothesoldiersfromCairo，whoguardedtheVache-Hathorinthenight，tomakehastetotakeherawayfarfromthehillsofThebesandfromtheNile’slongsouthernreaches，thatthegreatqueenmightoncemorereignalone？Theyobeyed。Hatshepsuwasappeased。And，likeadelicatewoman，perfumedandarranged，clothedinacreationofwhiteandblueandorange，standingeversoknowinglyagainstabackgroundoforangeandpink，ofredandofbrown-red，sherulesatDeir-el-Bahari。
XIII
THETOMBSOFTHEKINGS
OnthewaytothetombsofthekingsIwenttothetempleofKurna，thatlonelycenotaph，withitssand-coloredmassivefa鏰de，itsheapsoffallenstone，itswideandruineddoorway，itsthick，almostrough，columnsrecallingMedinet-Abu。Thereisnotverymuchtosee，butfromthereonehasafineviewofothertemples——oftheRamesseum，lookingsuperb，likeagrandskeleton;ofMedinet-Abu，distant，verypalegoldinthemorningsunlight;oflittleDeir-al-Medinet，theprettychildofthePtolemies，withtheheadsofthesevenHathors。AndfromKurnatheColossiareexceptionallygrandandexceptionallypersonal，sopersonalthatoneimaginesoneseestheexpressionsofthefacesthattheynolongerpossess。
Evenifyoudonotgointothetombs——butyouwillgo——youmustridetothetombsofthekings;andyoumust，ifyoucareforthefinesseofimpressions，rideonablazingdayandtowardthehourofnoon。
Thentheravineisitself，likethegreatactthatdemonstratesatemperament。Itisthenarrowhomeoffire，hemmedinbybrilliantcolors，nearlyall——perhapsquiteall——ofwhichcouldbefoundinaglowingfurnace。Everyshadeofyellowisthere——lemonyellow，sulphuryellow，theyellowofamber，theyellowoforangewithitstendencytowardred，theyellowofgold，sandcolor，suncolor。Cannotalltheseyellowsbefoundinafire？Andtherearethereds——pinkofthecarnation，pinkofthecoral，redofthelittlerosethatgrowsincertainplacesofsands，redofthebrightflame’sheart。Andallthesecolorsaremingledincompletesterility。Andallarefusedintoafiercebrotherhoodbythesun。andlikeaflood，theyseemflowingtotheredandtheyellowmountains，likeafloodthatisflowingtoitssea。Youaretakenbythemtowardthemountains，onandon，tilltheworldisclosingin，andyouknowthewaymustcometoanend。Anditcomestoanend——inatomb。
Yougotoadoorintherock，andaguardianletsyouin，andwantstofollowyouin。Preventhimifyoucan。Payhim。Goinalone。ForthisisthetombofAmenhotepII。;andhehimselfishere，fardown，atrestunderthemountain，thiskingwholivedandreignedmorethanfourteenhundredyearsbeforethebirthofChrist。Theravine-valleyleadstohim，andyoushouldgotohimalone。Heliesintheheartofthelivingrock，inthedullheatoftheearth’sbowels，whichislikenootherheat。Youdescendbystairsandcorridors，youpassoverawellbyabridge，youpassthroughanakedchamber;andthekingisnotthere。Andyougoondownanotherstaircase，andalonganothercorridor，andyoucomeintoapillaredchamber，withpaintingsonitswalls，andonitspillars，paintingsofthekinginthepresenceofthegodsoftheunderworld，understarsinasoftbluesky。Andbelowyou，shutinonthefarthersidebythesolidmountaininwhosebreastyouhaveallthistimebeenwalking，thereisacrypt。Andyouturnawayfromthebrightpaintings，anddownthereyouseetheking。
ManyyearsagoinLondonIwenttotheprivateviewoftheRoyalAcademyatBurlingtonHouse。Iwentintheafternoon，whenthegallerieswerecrowdedwithpoliticiansandartists，withdealers，gossips，quidnuncs，and/flaneurs/;withauthors，fashionablelawyers，anddoctors;withmenandwomenoftheworld;withyoungdandiesandactresses/envogue/。Aroarofvoiceswentuptotheroof。Everyonewastalking，smiling，laughing，commenting，andcriticizing。Itwasalittlepictureoftheveryworldlyworldthatlovesthethingsofto-dayandthechimeofthepassinghours。Andsuddenlysomepeoplenearmeweresilent，andsometurnedtheirheadstostarewithastrangelyfixedattention。AndIsawcomingtowardmeanemaciatedfigure，ratherbent，muchdrawntogether，walkingslowlyonlegslikesticks。Itwascladinblack，withagleamofcolor。Aboveitwasafacesointenselythinthatitwaslikethefaceofdeath。Andinthisfaceshonetwoeyesthatseemedfullof——theotherworld。And，likeabreathfromtheotherworldpassing，thismanwentbymeandwashiddenfrommebythethrong。ItwasCardinalManninginthelastdaysofhislife。
Thefaceofthekingislikehis，butithasanevendeeperpathosasitlooksupwardtotherock。Andtheking’ssilencebidsyoubesilent，andhisimmobilitybidsyoubestill。Andhissad，andunutterableresignationsiftsawe，asbythedesertwindthesandissiftedintothetemples，intothetempleofyourheart。Andyoufeelthetouchoftime，butthetouchofeternity，too。Andas，inthatrock-hewnsanctuary，youwhisper\"/Paxvobiscum/，\"yousayitforalltheworld。
XIV
EDFU
PrayerpervadestheEast。Faroffacrossthesands，whenoneistravelinginthedesert，oneseesthinminaretsrisingtowardthesky。
Adesertcityisthere。ItsignalsitspresencebythismuteappealtoAllah。Andwheretherearenominarets——inthegreatwastesofthedunes，intheeternalsilence，thelifelessnessthatisnotbrokenevenbyanylonely，wanderingbird——thecamelsarestoppedattheappointedhours，thepoor，andoftenragged，robesarelaiddown，thebrownpilgrimsprostratethemselvesinprayer。Andtherichmanspreadshiscarpet，andprays。Andthehalf-nakednomadspreadsnothing;butheprays，too。TheEastisfulloflustandfullofmoney-getting，andfullofbartering，andfullofviolence;butitisfullofworship——ofworshipthatdisdainsconcealment，thatrecksnotofridiculeorcomment，thatbelievestooutterlytocareifothersdisbelieve。ThereareintheEastmanymenwhodonotpray。Theydonotlaughatthemanwhodoes，liketheunprayingChristian。Thereisnothingludicroustotheminprayer。InEgyptyourNubiansailorpraysinthesternofyourdahabiyeh;andyourEgyptianboatmanpraysbytherudderofyourboat;andyourblackdonkey-boypraysbehindaredrockinthesand;andyourcamel-manprayswhenyouarerestinginthenoontide，watchingthefar-offquiveringmirage，lostinsomewaywarddream。
Andmustyounotpray，too，whenyouentercertaintempleswhereoncestrangegodswereworshippedinwhomnomannowbelieves？
ThereisonetempleontheNilewhichseemstoembraceinitsarmsalltheworshipofthepast;tobefullofprayersandsolemnpraises;tobetheholder，thenoblekeeper，ofthesacredlongings，oftheunearthlydesiresandaspirations，ofthedead。ItisthetempleofEdfu。Fromalltheothertemplesitstandsapart。Itisthetempleofinwardflame，ofthesecretsoulofman;ofthatmysterywithinusthatisexquisitelysensitive，andexquisitelyalive;thathaslongingsitcannottell，andsorrowsitdarenotwhisper，andlovesitcanonlylove。
ToHorusitwasdedicated——hawk-headedHorus——thesonofIsisandOsiris，whowascrownedwithmanycrowns，whowastheyoungApollooftheoldEgyptianworld。ButthoughIknowthis，IamneverabletoassociateEdfuwithHorus，thatchildwearingtheside-lock——whenheisnothawk-headedinhissolaraspect——thatboywithhisfingerinhismouth，thatyouthwhofoughtagainstSet，murdererofhisfather。
Edfu，initssolemnbeauty，initsperfectionofform，seemstometopassintoaregionaltogetherbeyondidentificationwiththeworshipofanyspecialdeity，withparticularattributes，perhapswithparticularlimitations;onewhocanbegravenuponwalls，anduponarchitravesandpillarspaintedinbrilliantcolors;onewhocanpersonallypursueacriminal，likesomepolicemaninthestreet;evenonewhocanriseupontheworldinthevisiblegloryofthesun。Tome，Edfumustalwaysrepresenttheworld-worshipof\"theHiddenOne\";
notAmun，godofthedead，fusedwithRa，withAmsu，orwithKhnum：
butthatother\"HiddenOne，\"whoisGodofthehappyhunting-groundofsavages，withwhomtheBuddhiststrivestomergehisstrangeserenityofsoul;whoisadoredinthe\"HolyPlaces\"bytheMoslem，andliftedmysticallyabovetheheadsofkneelingCatholicsincathedralsdimwithincense，andmerrilypraisedwiththebanjoandthetrumpetinthestreetsofblackEnglishcities;whoisaskedforchildrenbylongingwomen，andfornewdollsbylispingbabes;whomtheatheistdeniesintheday，andfearsinthedarknessofnight;whoisonthelipsalikeofpriestandblasphemer，andinthesoulofallhumanlife。
Edfustandsalone，notnearanyothertemple。Itisnotpagan;itisnotChristian：itisaplaceinwhichtoworshipaccordingtothedictatesofyourheart。
EdfustandsaloneonthebankoftheNilebetweenLuxorandAssuan。ItisnotveryfarfromEl-Kab，oncethecapitalofUpperEgypt，anditisabouttwothousandyearsold。Thebuildingofittookoveronehundredandeightyyears，anditisthemostperfectlypreservedtempleto-dayofalltheantiqueworld。Itishugeanditissplendid。
Ithastowersonehundredandtwelvefeethigh，apropylontwohundredandfifty-twofeetbroad，andwallsfourhundredandfiftyfeetlong。
BeguninthereignofPtolemyIII。，itwascompletedonlyfifty-sevenyearsbeforethebirthofChrist。
Youknowthesefactsaboutit，andyouforgetthem，oratleastyoudonotthinkofthem。WhatdoesitallmatterwhenyouarealoneinEdfu？
Lettheantiquariangowithhisanxiousnosealmosttouchingthestone;lettheEgyptologistpeerthroughhisglassesathieroglyphsandpuzzleoutthemeaningofcartouches：butletuswanderatease，andworshipandregardtheexquisiteform，anddrinkinthemysticalspirit，ofthisverywonderfultemple。
Doyoucareaboutform？Hereyouwillfinditinabsoluteperfection。
Edfuistheconsecrationofform。InproportionitissupremeaboveallotherEgyptiantemples。Itsbeautyofformislikethechiselledlovelinessofaperfectsonnet。Whiletheworldlasts，noarchitectcanarisetocreateabuildingmoresatisfying，morecalmwiththecalmoffaultlessness，moreserenewithajustserenity。Orsoitseemstome。IthinkofthemostlovelybuildingsIknowinEurope——oftheAlhambraatGranada，oftheCappellaPalatinainthepalaceatPalermo。AndEdfuIplacewiththem——Edfuutterlydifferentfromthem，moredifferent，perhaps，eventhantheyarefromeachother，butakintothem，asallgreatbeautyismysteriouslyakin。IhavespentmorningaftermorningintheAlhambra，andmanyandmanyanhourintheCappellaPalatina;andneverhaveIbeenwearyofeither，orlongedtogoaway。AndthissamesweetdesiretostaycameovermeinEdfu。The/Loulia/wastiedupbythehighbankoftheNile。Thesailorsweregladtorest。Therewasnosteamersoundingitshideoussirentocallmetoitscrowdeddeck。SoIyieldedtomydesire，andforlongIstayedinEdfu。AndwhenatlastIleftitIsaidtomyself，\"Thisisasupremething，\"andIknewthatwithinmehadsuddenlydevelopedthecuriouspassionforbuildingsthatsomepeopleneverfeel，andthatothersfeelevergrowingandgrowing。
Yes，Edfuissupreme。Noalterationcouldimproveit。Anychangemadeinit，howeverslight，couldonlybeharmfultoit。Pureandperfectisitsdesign——broadpropylon，greatopencourtyardwithpillaredgalleries，halls，chambers，sanctuary。Itsdignityanditssobrietyarematchless。Iknowtheymustbe，becausetheytouchedmesostrangely，withakindofreticentenchantment，andIamnotbynatureenamoredofsobriety，ofreticenceandcalm，butaminclinedtodelightinalmostviolentforce，inbrilliance，and，especially，incombinationsofcolor。IntheAlhambraonefindsbothforceandfairylikelightness，deliciousproportions，delicatefantasy，aspellasofsubtlemagicians;intheCappellaPalatina，ajeweledsplendor，combinedwithasmallperfectionofformwhichsimplycaptivatesthewholespiritandleadsittoadoration。InEdfuyouarefacetofacewithhugenessandwithgrandeur;butsoonyouarescarcelyawareofeither——inthesense，atleast，thatconnectsthesequalitieswithacertainoverwhelming，almoststrikingdown，ofthespiritandthefaculties。Whatyouareawareofisyourownimmenseandbeautifulcalmofuttersatisfaction——acalmwhichhasquietlyinundatedyou，likeawavelesstideofthesea。Howrareitistofeelthisabsolutesatisfaction，thispraisingserenity！Thecriticalspiritgoes，likeabirdfromanopenedwindow。Theexcited，laudatory，volublespiritgoes。Andthissplendidcalmisleft。Ifyoustayhere，you，asthistemplehasbeen，willbemoldedintoabeautifulsobriety。Fromthetopofthepylonyouhavereceivedthisstillandgloriousimpressionfromthematchlessdesignofthewholebuilding，whichyouseebestfromthere。Whenyoudescendtheshallowstaircase，whenyoustandinthegreatcourt，whenyougointotheshadowyhalls，thenitisthattheuttersatisfactionwithinyoudeepens。Thenitisthatyoufeeltheneedtoworshipinthisplacecreatedforworship。
TheancientEgyptiansmademostoftheirtemplesinconformitywithasingletype。Thesanctuarywasattheheart，thecore，ofeachtemple——thesanctuarysurroundedbythechambersinwhichwerelaidupthepreciousobjectsconnectedwithceremoniesandsacrifices。Leadingtothiscoreofthetemple，whichwassometimescalled\"thedivinehouse，\"werevarioushallstheroofsofwhichweresupportedbycolumns——thosehypostylehallswhichoneseesperpetuallyinEgypt。
Beforethefirstofthesehallswasacourtyardsurroundedbyacolonnade。Inthecourtyardthepriestsofthetempleassembled。Thepeoplewereallowedtoenterthecolonnade。Agatewaywithtowersgaveentrancetothecourtyard。IfonevisitsmanyoftheEgyptiantemples，onesoonbecomesawareofthesubtlety，combinedwithasortofhighsimplicityandsenseofmysteryandpoetry，ofthesebuildersofthepast。Asagreatwriterleadsoneon，withaconcealedbutbeautifulart，fromthefirstwordstowhichalltheotherwordsareministeringservants;asthegreatmusician——Wagnerinhis\"Meistersinger，\"forinstance——leadsonefromthefirstnotesofhisscoretothosefinalnoteswhichmagnificentlyrevealtothelistenerstherealmeaningofthosefirstnotes，andofallthenoteswhichfollowthem：sotheEgyptianbuildersleadthespiritgently，mysteriouslyforwardfromthegatewaybetweenthetowerstothedistanthousedivine。Whenoneenterstheoutercourt，onefeelsthefar-offsanctuary。Almostunconsciouslyoneisawarethatforthatsanctuaryalltherestofthetemplewascreated;thattothatsanctuaryeverythingtends。Andinspiritoneisdrawnsoftlyonwardtothatveryholyplace。Slowly，perhaps，thebodymovesfromcourtyardtohypostylehall，andfromonehalltoanother。Hieroglyphsareexamined，cartouchespuzzledout，paintingsofprocessions，orbas-reliefsofpastimesandofsacrifices，lookedatwithcareandinterest;butallthetimeonehasthesenseofwaiting，ofawantunsatisfied。Andonlywhenoneatlastreachesthesanctuaryisoneperfectlyatrest。Forthenthespiritfeels：\"Thisisthemeaningofitall。\"
OneofthemeanswhichtheEgyptianarchitectsusedtocreatethissenseofapproachisverysimple，butperfectlyeffective。Itconsistedonlyinmakingeachhallonaveryslightlyhigherlevelthantheoneprecedingit，andthesanctuary，whichisnarrowandmysteriouslydarkonthehighestlevelofall。Eachtimeonetakesanupwardstep，orwalksupalittleinclineofstone，thebodyseemstoconveytothesouladeepermessageofreverenceandawe。InnoothertempleisthissenseofapproachtotheheartofathingsoacuteasitiswhenonewalksinEdfu。Innoothertemple，whenthesanctuaryisreached，hasonesuchastrongconsciousnessofbeingindeedwithinasacredheart。
ThecolorofEdfuisapaleanddelicatebrown，warminthestrongsunshine，butseldomglowing。Itsfirstdoorwayisextraordinarilyhigh，andisnarrow，butverydeep，witharoofshowingtracesofthatdeliciousclearblue-greenwhichislikeathincryofjoyrisingupinthesolemntemplesofEgypt。Asmallsphinxkeepswatchontheright，justwheretheguardianstands;thisguardian，thegiftofthepast，squat，evenfat，withaveryperfectfaceofadeterminedandhandsomeman。Inthecourt，uponapedestal，standsabigbird，andnearitisanotherbird，orratherhalfofabird，leaningforward，andverymuchdefaced。Andinthisgreatcourtyardthereareswarmsoflivingbirds，twitteringinthesunshine。Throughthedoorwaybetweenthetowersoneseesaglimpseofanativevillagewiththecupolasofamosque。
Istoodandlookedatthecupolasforamoment。ThenIturned，andforgotforatimethelifeoftheworldwithout——thatmen，perhaps，wereprayingbeneaththosecupolas，orpraisingtheMoslem’sGod。ForwhenIturned，Ifelt，asIhavesaid，asifalltheworshipoftheworldmustbeconcentratedhere。Standingfardowntheopencourt，inthefullsunshine，Icouldseeintothefirsthypostylehall，butbeyondonlyadarkness——adarknesswhichledmeon，inwhichthefurtherchambersofthehousedivinewerehidden。AsIwentonslowly，theperfectionoftheplanofthedeadarchitectswasgraduallyrevealedtome，whenthedarknessgaveupitssecrets;whenIsawnotclearly，butdimly，thelongwaybetweenthecolumns，thenoblecolumnsthemselves，thegradual，slightupwardslope——graduatedbygenius;thereisnootherword——whichledtothesanctuary，seenatlastasalittledarkness，inwhichallthemysteryofworship，andofthesilentdesiresofmen，wassurelyconcentrated，andkeptbythestoneforever。Eventhesuccessionofthedarknesses，likeshadowsgrowingdeeperanddeeper，seemedplannedbysomegreatartistinthemanagementoflight，andsoofshadoweffects。TheperfectionofformisinEdfu，impossibletodescribe，impossiblenottofeel。Thetremendouseffectithas——aneffectuponthesoul——iscreatedbyacombinationofshapes，ofproportions，ofdifferentlevels，ofdifferentheights，byconsummategraduation。Andtheseshapes，proportions，differentlevels，andheights，areseenindimness。NotthatjewelleddimnessonelovesinGothiccathedrals，buttheheavydimnessofwindowless，mightychamberslightedonlybyarebukeddaylightevertryingtostealin。Oneiscapturedbynoornament，seducedbynolovelycolors。Betterthananyornament，greaterthananyradiantgloryofcolor，isthismassiveausterity。Itisliketheultimateinanart。Everythinghasbeentried，everystrangeness/bizarrerie/，absurdity，everywildschemeofhues，everypreposteroussubject——totakeanextremeinstance，acamel，wearingatop-hat，andlightedupbyfire-works，whichIsawrecentlyinapicture-galleryofMunich。Andattheendageniuspaintsaportraitofawrinkledoldwoman’sface，andtheworldregardsandworships。Oralldiscordshavebeenflungtogetherpell-mell，resolutionofthemhasbeendeferredperpetually，perhapsevendeniedaltogether，chordofBmajorhasbeenstruckwithCmajor，workshaveclosedupontheleadingnoteorthedominantseventh，symphonieshavebeencomposedtobeplayedinthedark，ortobeaccompaniedbyamagic-lantern’sefforts，operasbeenproducedwhicharemerelycarnageandarow——andattheendageniuswritesalittlesong，andtheworldgivesthetributeofitsbreathlesssilenceanditstears。Anditknowsthatthoughotherthingsmaybedone，betterthingscanneverbedone。Fornoperfectioncanexceedanyotherperfection。
AndsoinEdfuIfeelthatthisuntintedausterityisperfect;thatwhatevermaybedoneinarchitectureduringfutureagesoftheworld，Edfu，whileitlasts，willremainathingsupreme——supremeinformand，becauseofthissupremacy，supremeinthespellwhichitcastsuponthesoul。
Thesanctuaryisjustasmall，beautifullyproportioned，inmostchamber，withablackroof，containingasortofaltarofgranite，andagreatpolishedgraniteshrinewhichnodoubtoncecontainedthegodHorus。Iamgladheisnottherenow。Howfarmoreimpressiveitistostandinanemptysanctuaryinthehousedivineof\"theHiddenOne，\"
whomthenationsoftheworldworship，whethertheyspreadtheirrobesonthesandandturntheirfacestoMecca，orbeatthetambourineandsing\"gloryhymns\"ofsalvation，orflagellatethemselvesinthenightbeforethepatronsaintofthePassionists，oronlygazeatthesnow-
whiteplumethatfloatsfromthesnowsofEtnaundertheroseofdawn，andfeelthesoulbehindNature。AmongthetemplesofEgypt，Edfuisthehousedivineof\"theHiddenOne，\"theperfecttempleofworship。
XV
KOMOMBOS
Somepeopletalkofthe\"sameness\"oftheNile;andthereisalovelysamenessofgoldenlight，ofdeliciousair，ofpeople，andofscenery。
ForEgyptis，afterall，mainlyagreatriverwithstripsoneachsideofcultivatedland，flat，green，notveryvaried。River，greenplains，yellowplains，pink，brown，steel-grey，orpale-yellowmountains，wailofshadoof，wailofsakieh。Yes，Isupposethereisasameness，asortofgoldenmonotony，inthislandpervadedwithlightandpervadedwithsound。Alwaysthereislightaroundyou，andyouarebathinginit，andnearlyalways，ifyouareliving，asIwas，onthewater，thereisamultitudeofminglingsoundsfloating，floatingtoyourears。Astherearetwolinesofgreenland，twolinesofmountains，followingthecourseoftheNile;soaretheretwolinesofvoicesthatceasetheircallingandtheirsingingonlyasyoudrawneartoNubia。Forthen，withthegreenland，theyfadeaway，thesemilesuponmilesofcallingandsingingbrownmen;andamberandruddysandscreepdownwardtotheNile。Andtheairseemssubtlychanging，andthelightperhapsgrowingalittleharder。Andyouareawareofotherregionsunlikethoseyouareleaving，moreAfrican，moresavage，lesssuave，lesslikeadreaming。Andespeciallythesilencemakesagreatimpressiononyou。Butbeforeyouenterthissilence，betweentheamberandruddywallsthatwillleadyouontoNubia，andtothelandofthecrocodile，youhaveavisittopay。Forhere，highuponaterrace，lookingoveragreatbendoftheriverisKomOmbos。AndKomOmbosisthetempleofthecrocodilegod。
SebekwasoneoftheoldestandoneofthemosteviloftheEgyptiangods。IntheFayumhewasworshipped，aswellasatKomOmbos，andthere，intheholylakeofhistemple，werenumbersofholycrocodiles，whichStrabotellsusweredecoratedwithjewelslikeprettywomen。Hedidnotgetonwiththeothergods，andwassometimesconfusedwithSet，whopersonifiednaturaldarkness，andwhoalsowasworshippedbythepeopleaboutKomOmbos。
IhavespokenofthegoldensamenessoftheNile，butthissamenessisbrokenbythevarietyofthetemples。Hereyouhaveastrikinginstanceofthisvariety。Edfu，onlyfortymilesfromKomOmbos，thenexttemplewhichyouvisit，isthemostperfecttempleinEgypt。KomOmbosisoneofthemostimperfect。Edfuisadivinehouseof\"theHiddenOne，\"fullofasacredatmosphere。KomOmbosisthehouseofcrocodiles。InancientdaystheinhabitantsofEdfuabhorred，aboveeverything，crocodilesandtheirworshippers。AndhereatKomOmbosthecrocodilewasadored。Youareinadifferentatmosphere。
Assoonasyouland，youaregreetedwithcrocodiles，thoughfortunatelynotbythem。Aheapoftheirblackmummiesisshowntoyoureposinginasortoftomborshrineopenatoneendtotheair。Bythesemummiesthenewnoteisloudlystruck。Thecrocodileshavecarriedyouinaninstantfromthatwhichispervadinglygeneraltothatwhichisnarrowlyparticular;fromthepurelynoble，whichseemstobelongtoalltime，totheentirelybarbaric，whichbelongsonlytotimesoutworn。Itisdifficulttofeelasifonehadanythingincommonwithmenwhoseriouslyworshippedcrocodiles，hadprieststofeedthem，anddecoratedtheirscalyneckswithjewels。
YetthecrocodilegodhadanobletempleatKomOmbos，atemplewhichdatesfromthetimesofthePtolemies，thoughtherewasatempleinearlierdayswhichhasnowdisappeared。Itssituationissplendid。ItstandshighabovetheNile，andclosetotheriver，onaterracewhichhasrecentlybeenconstructedtosaveitfromtheencroachmentsofthewater。Anditlooksdownuponaviewwhichisexquisiteintheclearlightofearlymorning。Ontheright，andfaroff，isadeliciouspinkbarenessofdistantflatsandhills。Oppositethereisafloodofverdureandoftreesgoingtomountains，aspitofsandwhereisaninletoftheriver，withacrowdofnativeboats，perhapswaitingforawind。OntheleftisthebigbendoftheNile，singularlybeautiful，almostvoluptuousinform，andgirdledwitharadiantgreenofcrops，withpalm-trees，andagainthedistanthills。SebekwaswelladvisedtohavehistempleshereandinthegloriousFayum，thatlandflowingwithmilkandhoney，wheretheairisfullofthevoicesoftheflocksandherds，andalivewiththewildpigeons;wherethesweetsugar-canetowersupinfairyforests，thebelovedhomeofthejackal;wherethegreencornwavestothehorizon，andtherunletsofwatermakeamazeofsilverthreadscarryinglifeanditshappymurmurthroughallthevastoasis。
Attheguardian’sgatebywhichyougointheresitsnotawatchdog，noryetacrocodile，butawatchcat，small，butverydetermined，andveryattentivetoitsduties，andneatlycarvedinstone。Youtrytolooklikeacrocodile-worshipper。Itisdeceived，andletsyoupass。
AndyouarealonewiththegrowingmorningandKomOmbos。
Iwasnevertaken，caughtupintoanatmosphere，inKomOmbos。I
examineditwithinterest，butIdidnotfeelaspell。Itsgrandeurisgreat，butitdidnotaffectmeasdidthegrandeurofKarnak。Itsnobilitycannotbequestioned，butIdidnotstillyrejoiceinit，asinthenobilityofLuxor，orthefreesplendoroftheRamesseum。
TheoldestthingatKomOmbosisagatewayofsandstoneplacedtherebyThothmesIII。asatributetoSebek。Thegreattempleisofawarm-
browncolor，averyrichandparticularlybeautifulbrown，thatsoothesandalmostcomfortstheeyesthathavebeenformanydaysboldlyassaultedbythesun。Upontheterraceplatformabovetheriveryoufacealowandruinedwall，onwhichtherearesomelivelyreliefs，beyondwhichisalarge，opencourtcontainingaquantityofstunted，oncebigcolumnsstandingonbigbases。Immediatelybeforeyouthetempletowersup，verygigantic，verymajestic，withastonepavement，wallsonwhichstillremainsometracesofpaintings，andreallygrandcolumns，enormousinsizeandingoodformation。Therearefinearchitraves，andsomebitsofroofing，butthegreaterpartisopentotheair。Throughadoorwayisasecondhallcontainingcolumnsmuchlessnoble，andbeyondthisonewalksinruin，amongcrumbledorpartlydestroyedchambers，brokenstatues，becomemereslabsofgraniteandfallenblocksofstone。Attheendisawall，withapavementborderingit，andarowofchambersthatlooklikemonkishcells，closedbysmalldoors。AtKomOmbostherearetwosanctuaries，onededicatedtoSebek，theothertoHeru-ur，orHaroeris，aformofHorusinEgyptiancalled\"theElder，\"whichwasworshippedwithSebekherebytheadmirersofcrocodiles。Eachofthemcontainsapedestalofgraniteuponwhichoncerestedasacredbarkbearinganimageofthedeity。
Therearesomefinereliefsscatteredthroughthesemightyruins，showingSebekwiththeheadofacrocodile，Heru-urwiththeheadofahawksocharacteristicofHorus，andonestrangeanimalwhichhasnofewerthanfourheads，apparentlymeantfortheheadsoflions。OnereliefwhichIspeciallynoticedforitslife，itscharmingvivacity，anditsalmostamusingfidelitytodetailsunchangedto-day，depictsanumberofducksinfullflightnearamassoflotus-flowers。I
remembereditonedayintheFayum，sointimatelyassociatedwithSebek，whenIrodetwentymilesoutfromcamponadromedarytotheendofthegreatlakeofKurun，wherethesandwastesoftheLibyandesertstretchtothepaleandwavelesswaterswhich，thatday，lookedcuriouslydesolateandevensinisterunderalow，greysky。Beyondthewirytamarisk-bushes，whichgrowfaroutfromtheshore，thousandsuponthousandsofwildduckwerefloatingasfarastheeyescouldsee。Wetookastrangenativeboat，mannedbytwohalf-nakedfishermen，andwererowedwithbig，broad-bladedoarsoutuponthesilentfloodthatthesilentdesertsurrounded。Buttheduckweretoowaryevertoletusgetwithinrangeofthem。Aswedrewgentlynear，theyroseinblackthrongs，andskimmedlowintothedistanceofthewintrylandscape，trailingtheirlegsbehindthem，liketheduckonthewallofKomOmbos。Therewasnoduckfordinnerincampthatnight，andthecookwasinconsolable。ButIhadseenareliefcometolife，andsurmountedmydisappointment。
KomOmbosandEdfu，thetwohousesoftheloversandhatersofcrocodiles，oratleastoftheloversandthehatersoftheirworship，Ishallalwaysthinkofthemtogether，becauseIdriftedonthe/Loulia/fromonetotheother，andsawnointerestingtemplebetweenthemandbecausetheirpersonalitiesareasopposedaswere，centuriesago，thetenetsofthosewhoadoredwithinthem。TheEgyptiansofoldweredevotedtothehuntingofcrocodiles，whichonceaboundedinthereachesoftheNilebetweenAssuanandLuxor，andalsomuchlowerdown。ButIbelievethatnoreliefs，orpaintings，ofthissportaretobefounduponthewallsofthetemplesandthetombs。ThefearofSebek，perhaps，prevailedevenoverthedwellersaboutthetempleofEdfu。Yethowcouldfearofanycrocodilegodinfectthesoulsofthosewhowereprivilegedtoworshipinsuchatemple，orevenreverentlytostandunderthecolonnadewithinthedoor？Aswell，perhaps，onemightaskhowmencouldbeinspiredtoraisesuchaperfectbuildingtoadeitywiththefaceofahawk？ButHoruswasnotthegodofcrocodiles，butagodofthesun。Andhispowertoinspiremenmusthavebeenvast;forthegreatestconcentrationinstoneinEgypt，and，Isuppose，inthewholeworld，theSphinx，asDeRougeprovedbyaninscriptionatEdfu，wasarepresentationofHorustransformedtoconquerTyphon。TheSphinxandEdfu！Forsuchmarvelsweoughttoblessthehawk-headedgod。Andifweforgetthehawk，whichonemeetssoperpetuallyuponthewallsoftombsandtemples，andidentifyHorusratherwiththeGreekApollo，theyellow-hairedgodofthesun，driving\"westerlyalldayinhisflamingchariot，\"andshootinghisgoldenarrowsatthehappyworldbeneath，wecanbeatpeacewiththosedeadEgyptians。ForeverypilgrimwhogoestoEdfuto-dayissurelyaworshipperofthesolaraspectofHorus。Aslongastheworldlaststherewillbesun-worshippers。EverybrownmanupontheNileisone，andeverygoodAmericanwhocrossestheoceanandcomesatlastintothesombrewonderofEdfu，andIwasoneuponthedeckofthe/Loulia/。
Andweallworshipasyetinthedark，asintheexquisitedark，likefaith，oftheHolyofHoliesofHorus。
XVI
PHILAE
AsIdrewslowlynearerandnearertothehomeof\"thegreatEnchantress，\"or，asIsiswasalsocalledinbygonedays，\"theLadyofPhilae，\"thelandbegantochangeincharacter，tobefullofanewandbarbaricmeaning。InrecentyearsIhavepaidmanyvisitstonorthernAfrica，butonlytoTunisiaandAlgeria，countriesthatarewilderlooking，andmuchwilderseemingthanEgypt。Now，asI
approachedAssuan，Iseemedatlasttobealsoapproachingthereal，theintenseAfricathatIhadknownintheSahara，theenigmaticsiren，savageandstrangeandwonderful，whomthetypicalOuledNail，crownedwithgold，andtuftedwithostrichplumes，paintedwithkohl，tattooed，andperfumed，hungwithgoldencoinsandamulets，andframedinplaitsofcoarse，falsehair，representsindifferentlytotheeyesofthetravellingstranger。ForatlastIsawthesandsthatIlovecreepingdowntothebanksoftheNile。Andtheybroughtwiththemthatwonderfulairwhichbelongsonlytothem——theairthatdwellsamongthedunesinthesolitaryplaces，thatislikethecooltouchofLibertyuponthefaceofaman，thatmakesthebrownchildofthenomadaslithe，tireless，andfierce-spiritedasayoungpanther，andsetsflameintheeyesoftheArabhorse，andgivesspeedofthewindtotheSloughi。Thetrueloverofthedesertcanneverridhissoulofitspassionforthesands，andnowmyheartleapedasIstoleintotheirpureembraces，asIsawtorightandleftambercurvesandsheenyrecesses，shiningridgesandbloomyclefts。Thecleandelicacyofthosesandsthat，inlongandglowinghills，stretchedoutfromNubiatomeetme，whocouldeverdescribethem？Whocouldeverdescribetheirsoftandenticingshapes，theirexquisitegradationsofcolor，thelittleshadowsintheirhollows，thefierybeautyoftheircrests，thepatternsthecoolwindsmakeuponthem？Itisanenchanted/royaume/ofthesandsthroughwhichoneapproachesIsis。
Isisandengineers！WeEnglishpeoplehaveeffectedthatcuriousintroduction，andwegreatlyprideourselvesuponit。WehavepresentedSirWilliamGarstin，andMr。JohnBlue，andMr。FitzMaurice，andotherclever，hard-workingmentothefabledLadyofPhilae，andtheyhavegivenheragift：adamtwothousandyardsinlength，uponwhichtouristsgosmilingontrolleys。Isishasherexpensivetribute——itcostaboutamillionandahalfpounds——andnodoubtsheoughttobegratified。
YetIthinkIsismournsonalteredPhilae，asshemournswithhersister，Nepthys，attheheadsofsomanymummiesofOsiriansuponthewallsofEgyptiantombs。Andthoughthefellaheenveryrightlyrejoice，therearesomeunpracticalsentimentalistswhoformacompanyabouther，andmaketheirplaintwithhers——theirplaintforthepeacethatisgone，forthelostcalm，thedepartedpoetry，thatoncehung，likeadelicious，likeaninimitable，atmosphere，aboutthepalmsofthe\"HolyIsland。\"
IconfessthatIdreadedtorevisitPhilae。Ihadsweetmemoriesoftheislandthathadbeenwithmeformanyyears——memoriesofstillmorningsunderthepalm-trees，watchingtheglidingwatersoftheriver，orgazingacrossthemtothelongsweepoftheemptysands;
memoriesofdrowsy，goldennoons，whenthebrightworldseemedsoftlysleeping，andthealmostdaffodil-coloredtempledreamedunderthequiveringcanopyofblue;memoriesofeveningswhenabenedictionfromtheliftedhandsofRomancesurelyfelluponthetempleandtheislandandtheriver;memoriesofmoonlitnights，whenthespiritsoftheoldgodstowhomthetempleswererearedsurelyheldconversewiththespiritsofthedesert，withMirageandherpaleandevadingsistersofthegreatspaces，underthebrilliantstars。Iwasafraid，becauseI
couldnotbelievetheasservationsofcertainpracticalpersons，fullofthehardandalmostangrydesireof\"Progress，\"thatnoharmhadbeendonebythecreationofthereservoir，butthat，onthecontrary，ithadbenefitedthetemple。Theactionofthewateruponthestone，theysaidwithvehementvoices，insteadoflooseningitandcausingittocrumbleuntimelyaway，hadtendedtohardenandconsolidateit。
HereIshouldliketolie，butIresistthetemptation。MonsieurNavillehasstatedthatpossiblytheEnglishengineershavehelpedtoprolongthelivesofthebuildingsofPhilae，andMonsieurMasperohasdeclaredthat\"thestateofthetempleofPhilaebecomescontinuallymoresatisfactory。\"Sobeit！Longevityhasbeen，byahappychance，secured。Butwhatofbeauty？Whatofthebeautyofthepast，andwhatoftheschemesforthefuture？IsPhilaeeventobeleftasitis，orarethewatersoftheNiletobeartificiallyraisedstillhigher，untilPhilaeceasestobe？Soon，nodoubt，ananswerwillbegiven。
Meanwhile，insteadofthelittleislandthatIknew，andthoughtalittleparadisebreathingoutenchantmentinthemidstoftitanicsterility，Ifoundasomethingdiseased。Philaenow，whenoutofthewater，asitwasallthetimewhenIwaslastinEgypt，lookslikeathingstrickenwithsomecreepingmalady——oneofthosemaladieswhichbegininthelowermembersofabody，andworktheirwaygraduallybutinexorablyupwardtothetrunk，untiltheyattaintheheart。
Icametoitbythedesert，anddescendedtoShellal——Shellalwithitsrailway-station，itsworkmen’sbuildings，itstents，itsdozensofscreenstoprotectthehewersofstonefromtheburningraysofthesun，itsbustleofpeople，ofoverseers，engineers，andworkmen，Egyptian，Nubian，Italian，andGreek。ThesilenceIhadknownwasgone，thoughthedesertlayallaround——thegreatsands，thegreatmassesofgranitethatlookasifpatientlywaitingtobefashionedintoobelisks，andsarcophagi，andstatues。Butawaythereacrossthebendoftheriver，dominatingtheuglyrummageofthisintrusivebeehiveofhumanbees，sheergraceovercomingstrengthbothofnatureandhumannature，rosethefabled\"Pharaoh’sBed\";gracious，tender，fromShellalmostdelicatelyperfect，andglowingwithpalegoldagainstthegrimbackgroundofthehillsonthewesternshore。Itseemedtopleadformercy，likesomethingfemininethreatenedwithoutrage，toprotestthroughitsmerebeauty，asawomanmightprotestbyanattitude，againstfurtherdesecration。
AndinthedistancetheNileroaredthroughthemanygatesofthedam，makinganswertotheprotest。
Whatironywasinthisscene！IntheolddaysofEgyptPhilaewassacredground，wastheNile-protectedhomeofsacerdotalmysteries，wasaveritableMeccatothebelieversinOsiris，towhichitwasforbiddeneventodrawnearwithoutpermission。TheancientEgyptianssworesolemnly\"ByhimwhosleepsinPhilae。\"Nowtheysometimesswearangrilyathimwhowakesin，oratleastby，Philae，andkeepsthemsteadilygoingattheirappointedtasks。Andinsteadofitbeingforbiddentodrawneartoasacredspot，needymenfromforeigncountriesflockthitherineagercrowds，nottoworshipinbeauty，buttoearnalivingwage。
And\"Pharaoh’sBed\"looksoutoverthewaterandseemstowonderwhatwillbetheend。
IwasgladtoescapefromShellal，pursuedbytheshriekofanengineannouncingitsdeparturefromthestation，gladtobeonthequietwater，toputitbetweenmeandthatcrowdofbusyworkers。BeforemeIsawavastlake，notunlovely，whereoncetheNileflowedswiftly，faroffagreysmudge——theverydamnabledam。Allaroundmewasagrimandcruelworldofrocks，andofhillsthatlookalmostlikeheapsofrubbish，someofthemgrey，someofthemincolorsodarkthattheyresemblethelavatorrentspetrifiednearCatania，orthe\"BlackCountry\"inEnglandthroughwhichonerushesonone’swaytothenorth。Justhereandthere，sweetlyalmostasthepinkblossomsofthewildoleander，whichIhaveseenfromSicilianseasliftingtheirheadsfromthecrevicesofsearocks，theamberandrosysandsofNubiasmileddownovergrit，stone，andgranite。
ThesettingofPhilaeissevere。Eveninbrightsunshineithasanironlook。Onagreyorstormydayitwouldbeforbiddingoreventerrible。IntheoldwintersandspringsonelovedPhilaethemorebecauseofthecontrastofitssettingwithitsownlyricalbeauty，itscurioustendernessofcharm——acharminwhichtheisleitselfwasmingledwithitsbuildings。Butnow，andbeforemyboathadtouchedthequay，Isawthattheislandmustbeignored——ifpossible。
Thewaterwithwhichitisentirelycoveredduringagreatpartoftheyearseemstohavecastablightuponit。Theveryfewpalmshaveadroopingandtragicair。Thegroundhasagangrenedappearance，andmuchofitshowsacrawlingmassofunwholesome-lookingplants，whichseemcrouchingdownasifashamedoftheirbrutalexposurebytherecededriver，andofharshandyellow-greengrass，unattractivetotheeyes。AsIsteppedonshoreIfeltasifIweresteppingondisease。Butatleasttherewerethebuildingsundisturbedbyanyoutrage。AgainIturnedtoward\"Pharaoh’sBed，\"towardthetemplestandingapartfromit，whichalreadyIhadseenfromthedesert，nearShellal，gleamingwithitsgracioussand-yellow，liftingitsseriesofstraightlinesofmasonryabovetheriverandtherocks，looking，fromadistance，verysimple，withasimplicitylikethatofclearwater，butasenticingasthelightonthefirstrealdayofspring。
Iwentfirstto\"Pharaoh’sBed。\"
Imagineawomanwithaperfectlylovelyface，withfeaturesasexquisitelyproportionedasthose，say，ofPraxiteles’sstatueoftheCnidianAphrodite，forwhichKingNicomedeswaswillingtoremittheentirenationaldebtofCnidus，andwithawarmlywhiterose-leafcomplexion——oneofthosecomplexionsonesometimesseesinItalianwomen，colorless，yetsuggestivealmostofglow，ofpurity，withtheflameofpassionbehindit。Imaginethatwomanattackedbyamaladywhichleavesherfeaturesexactlyastheywere，butwhichchangesthecolorofherface——fromthethroatupwardtojustbeneaththenose——
fromthewarmwhitetoamottled，greyishhue。Imaginethelinethatwouldseemtobetracedbetweenthetwocomplexions——themottledgreybelowthewarmwhitestillglowingabove。Imaginethis，andyouhave\"Pharaoh’sBed\"andthetempleofPhilaeastheyareto-day。
XVII
\"PHARAOH’SBED\"
\"Pharaoh’sBed，\"whichstandsaloneclosetotheNileontheeasternsideoftheisland，isnotoneofthoserugged，majesticbuildings，fullofgrandeurandsplendor，whichcanbear，can\"carryoff，\"asitwere，acruellyimposeduglinesswithoutbeingaffectedasawhole。Itis，onthecontrary，asmall，almostanairy，andafemininelyperfectthing，inwhichasingularlovelinessofformwascombinedwithasingularlovelinessofcolor。Thespellitthrewoveryouwasnotsomuchaspellwovenofdetailsasaspellwovenofdivineuniformity。
Toputitinverypracticallanguage，\"Pharaoh’sBed\"was\"allofapiece。\"Theformwasmarriedtothecolor。Thecolorseemedtomeltintotheform。Itwasindeedabedinwhichthesoulthatworshipsbeautycouldresthappilyentranced。Nothingjarred。Antiquariessaythatapparentlythisbuildingwasleftunfinished。Thatmaybeso。ButforallthatitwasoneofthemostfinishedthingsinEgypt，essentiallyathingtoinspirewithinonethe\"perfectcalmthatisGreek。\"TheblightingtouchoftheNile，whichhaschangedthebeautifulpaleyellowofthestoneofthelowerpartofthebuildingtoahideousanddrearygrey——whichmademethinkofasteelknifeonwhichliquidhasbeenspiltandallowedtorun——hasdestroyedtheuniformity，thebalance，thefaultlessmelodyliftedupbyformandcolor。Andsoitiswiththetemple。Itis，asitwere，cutintwobytheintrusionintoitofthishideous，mottledcomplexionleftbytherecededwater。Everywhereoneseesdiseaseonthewallsandcolumns，almostblottingoutbas-reliefs，givingtotheiractivefiguresamorbid，asicklylook。TheeffectisspeciallydistressingintheopencourtthatprecedesthetemplededicatedtotheLadyofPhilae。Inthiscourt，whichisatthesouthernendoftheisland，theNileatcertainseasonsisnowforcedtoriseverynearlyashighasthecapitalsofmanyofthecolumns。Theconsequenceofthisisthatherethediseaseseemsmakingrapidstrides。Onefeelsitisdrawingneartotheheart，andthatthepoor，doomedinvalidmaycollapseatanymoment。