第1章

PISCATAQUARIVER

Thousingestbythegleamingisles，Bywoods，andfieldsofcorn，Thousingest，andthesunlightsmilesUponmybirthdaymorn。

ButIwithinacity，I，Sofullofvagueunrest，WouldalmostgivemylifetolieAnhouruponuponthybreast。

Toletthewherrylistlessgo，And，wraptindreamyjoy，Dip，andsurgeidlytoandfro，Liketheredharbor-buoy；

Tositinhappyindolence，Torestupontheoars，AndcatchtheheavyearthyscentsThatblowfromsummershores；

Toseetheroundedsungodown，AndwithitspartingfiresLightupthewindowsofthetownAndburnthetaperingspires；

AndthentohearthemuffledtollsFromsteeplesslimandwhite，Andwatch，amongtheIslesofShoals，TheBeacon’sorangelight。

ORiver！flowingtothemainThroughwoods，andfieldsofcorn，HearthoumylongingandmypainThissunnybirthdaymorn；

AndtakethissongwhichfancyshapesTomusiclikethineown，AndsingittothecliffsandcapesAndcragswhereIamknown！

CONTENTS

I。CAPTAINJOHNSMITH

II。ALONGTHEWATERSIDE

III。ASTROLLABOUTTOWN

IV。ASTROLLABOUTTOWN（continued）

V。OLDSTRAWBERRYBANK

VI。SOMEOLDPORTSMOUTHPROFILES

VII。PERSONALREMINISCENCES

INDEXOFNAMES

ANOLDTOWNBYTHESEA

I。

CAPTAINJOHNSMITH

ICALLitanoldtown，butitisonlyrelativelyold。Whenonereflectsonthecountlesscenturiesthathavegonetothefor-mationofthiscrustofearthonwhichwetemporarilymove，themostancientcitiesonitssurfaceseemmerelythingsoftheweekbeforelast。Itwasonlytheotherday，then——thatistosay，inthemonthofJune，1603——thatoneMartinPring，intheshipSpeedwell，anenormousshipofnearlyfiftytonsburden，fromBristol，England，sailedupthePiscataquaRiver。TheSpeedwell，numberingthirtymen，officersandcrew，hadforconsorttheDiscoverer，oftwenty-sixtonsandthirteenmen。

Afterfollowingthewindingsof\"thebraveriver\"fortwelvemilesormore，thetwovesselsturnedbackandputtoseaagain，havingfailedinthechiefobjectoftheexpedition，whichwastoobtainacargoofthemedicinalsassafras-tree，fromthebarkofwhich，aswellknowntoourancestors，couldbedistilledtheElixirofLife。

ItwasatsomepointontheleftbankofthePiscataqua，threeorfourmilesfromthemouthoftheriver，thatworthyMasterPringprobablyeffectedoneofhisseverallandings。Thebeautifulstreamwidenssuddenlyatthisplace，andthegreenbanks，thencoveredwithanetworkofstrawberryvines，andslopinginvitinglytothelipofthecrystalwater，musthavewonthetiredmariners。

Theexplorersfoundthemselvesontheedgeofavastforestofoak，hemlock，maple，andpine；buttheysawnosassafras-treestospeakof，nordidtheyencounter——whatwouldhavebeeninfinitelylesstotheirtaste——andred-men。HereandtherewerediscoverablethescatteredashesoffireswheretheIndianshadencampedearlierinthespring；theywereabsentnow，atthesilveryfalls，higherupthestream，wherefishaboundedatthatseason。ThesoftJunebreeze，ladenwiththedelicatebreathofwild-flowersandthepungentodorsofspruceandpine，ruffledtheduplicateskyinthewater；thenewleaveslispedpleasantlyinthetreetops，andthebirdsweresingingasiftheyhadgonemad。Norudersoundormovementoflifedisturbedtheprimevalsolitude。MasterPringwouldscarcelyrecognizethespotwerehetolandthereto-day。

ElevenyearsafterwardsamuchcleverermanthanthecommanderoftheSpeedwelldroppedanchorinthePiscataqua——CaptainJohnSmithoffamousmemory。AfterslayingTurksinhand-to-handcombats，anddoingallsortsofdoughtydeedswhereverhechancedtodecoratetheglobewithhispresence，hehadcomewithtwovesselstothefisheriesontherockyselvageofMaine，whencuriosity，orperhapsadeepermotive，ledhimtoexaminetheneighboringshorelines。Witheightofhismeninasmallboat，aship’syawl，heskirtedthecoastfromPenobscotBaytoCapeCod，keepinghiseyeopen。Thiskeepinghiseyeopenwasapeculiarityofthelittlecaptain；possiblyafamilytrait。ItwasSmithwhoreallydiscoveredtheIslesofShoals，exploringinpersonthosemassesofbleachedrock——those\"islesassezhautes，\"

ofwhichtheFrenchnavigatorPierredeGuast，SieurdeMonts，hadcaughtabird’s-eyeglimpsethroughthetwilightin1605。

CaptainSmithchristenedthegroupSmith’sIsles，atitlewhichposterity，withsingularpersistenceofingratitude，hasignored。

ItwasatardysenseofjusticethatexpresseditselfafewyearsagoinerectingonStarIslandasimplemarbleshafttothememoryofJOHNSMITH——themultitudinous！Perhapsthislongdelayisexplainedbyanaturalhesitationtolabelamonumentsoambiguously。

ThemodernJason，meanwhile，wasnotwithouthonorinhisowncountry，whatevermayhavehappenedtohiminhisownhouse，forthepoetGeorgeWitheraddressedacopyofpompousverses\"TohisFriendCaptainSmith，uponhisDescriptionofNewEngland。\"\"Sir，\"

hesays——

\"Sir：yourRelationsIhaueread：whichshewTher’sreasonIshouldhonorthemandyou：

AndiftheirmeaningIhavevnderstood，Idaretocensurethus：YourProject’sgood；

Andmay（iffollow’d）doubtlessequitthepaineWithhonour，pleasureandatrebblegaine；

BesidethebenefitthatshallariseTomakemorehappyourPosterities。\"

TheearliestmapofthisportionofourseaboardwaspreparedbySmithandlaidbeforePrinceCharles，whoaskedtogivethecountryaname。HechristeneditNewEngland。InthatremarkablemapthesiteofPortsmouthiscallHull，andKitteryandYorkareknownasBoston。

ItwasdoubtlessowingtoCaptainJohnSmith’srepresentationonhisreturntoEnglandthattheLaconiaCompanyselectedthebanksofthePiscataquafortheirplantation。SmithwasonanintimatefootingwithSirFerinandGorges，who，fiveyearssubsequently，madeatourofinspectionalongtheNewEnglandcoast，incompanywithJohnMason，thenGovernorofNewfoundland。OneoftheresultsofthissummercruiseisthetownofPortsmouth，amongwhoseleafyways，andintosomeofwhoseold-fashionedhouses，I

purposetotakethereader，ifhehaveanidlehouronhishands。

Shouldwemeettheflittingghostofsomeold-timeworthy，onthestaircaseoratalonelystreetcorner，thereadermustbepreparedforit。

II。

ALONGTHEWATERSIDE

ITisnotsupposablethattheearlysettlersselectedthesiteoftheirplantationonaccountofitspicturesqueness。Theywereinfluencedentirelybythelayoftheland，itsnearnessandeasyaccesstothesea，andthesecureharboritofferedtotheirfishing-vessels；yettheycouldnothavechosenamorebeautifulspothadbeautybeenthesoleconsideration。ThefirstsettlementwasmadeatOdiorne’sPoint——thePilgrims’RockofNewHampshire；

theretheManor，orMason’sHall，wasbuiltbytheLaconiaCompanyin1623。Itwasnotuntil1631thattheGreatHousewaserectedbyHumphreyChadbornonStrawberryBank。Mr。Chadborn，consciouslyorunconsciously，sowedaseedfromwhichacityhassprung。

ThetownofPortsmouthstretchesalongthesouthbankofthePiscataqua，abouttwomilesfromtheseaasthecrowflies——threemilesfollowingtheserpentinecourseoftheriver。Thestreambroadenssuddenlyatthispoint，andatfloodtide，lyingwithoutarippleinabasinformedbytheinterlockedislandsandthemainland，itlooksmorelikeanislandlakethanariver。Totheunaccustomedeyethereisnovisibleoutlet。StandingononeofthewharvesatthefootofStateStreetorCourtStreet，astrangerwouldatfirstscarcelysuspectthecontiguityoftheocean。Alittleobservation，however，wouldshowhimthathewasinaseaport。Therichredrustonthegablesandroofsofancientbuildingslookingseawardwouldtellhimthat。Thereisafitfulsalineflavorintheair，andifwhilehegazedadensewhitefogshouldcomerollingin，likealineofphantombreakers，hewouldnolongerhaveanydoubts。

Itisofcoursetheoldestpartofthetownthatskirtstheriver，thoughfewofthenotablehousesthatremainaretobefoundthere。LikeallNewEnglandsettlements，Portsmouthwasbuiltofwood，andhasbeensubjectedtoextensiveconflagrations。Yourarelycomeacrossabrickbuildingthatisnotshockinglymodern。ThefirsthouseofthekindwaserectedbyRichardWibirdtowardsthecloseoftheseventeenthcentury。

Thoughmanyoftheoldlandmarkshavebeensweptawaybythefatefulhandoftimeandfire，thetownimpressesyouasaveryoldtown，especiallyasyousaunteralongthestreetsdownbytheriver。Theworm-eatenwharves，someofthemcoveredbyasparse，unhealthybeardofgrass，andtheweather-stained，unoccupiedwarehousesaresufficienttosatisfyamoderateappetiteforantiquity。Thesedesertedpiersandtheselongrowsofemptybarracks，withtheirsarcasticcranesprojectingfromtheeaves，ratherpuzzlethestranger。Whythisgreatpreparationforacommercialactivitythatdoesnotexist，andevidentlyhadnotforyearsexisted？Therearenoshipslyingatthepier-heads；

therearenogangsofstevedoresstaggeringundertheheavycasesofmerchandise；hereandthereisabargeladendowntothebulwarkswithcoal，andhereandthereasquare-riggedschoonerfromMainesmotheredwithfragrantplanksandclapboards；animportedcitizenisfishingattheendofthewharf，aruminativefreckledsonofDrogheda，inperfectsympathywiththeindolentsunshinethatseemstobesoleproprietorofthesecrumblingpilesandridiculouswarehouses，fromwhicheventheghostofprosperityhasflown。

Onceuponatime，however，PortsmouthcarriedonanextensivetradewiththeWestIndies，threateningasamaritimeporttoeclipsebothBostonandNewYork。Atthewindowsofthesemustycounting-roomswhichoverlooktherivernearSpringMarketusedtostandportlymerchants，inkneebreechesandsilvershoe-bucklesandplum-coloredcoatswithrufflesatthewrist，waitingfortheirshipstocomeuptheNarrows；thecriesofstevedoresandthechantsofsailorsatthewindlassusedtoechoalongtheshorewhereallissilencenow。Forreasonsnotworthsettingforth，thetradewiththeIndiesabruptlyclosed，havingruinedaswellasenrichedmanyaPortsmouthadventurer。Thisexplainstheemptywarehousesandtheunusedwharves。Portsmouthremainstheinterestingwidowofaonceverylivelycommerce。I

fancythatfewfortunesareeithermadeorlostinPortsmouthnowadays。Formerlyitturnedoutthebestships，asitdidtheablestshipcaptains，intheworld。Therewerefamiliesinwhichtheloveforbluewaterwasinimmemorialtrait。Theboyswerealwayssailors；\"agrey-headedshipmaster，ineachgeneration，retiringfromthequarter-decktothehomestead，whileaboyoffourteentookthehereditaryplacebeforethemast，confrontingthesaltsprayandthegale，whichhadblastedagainsthissireandgrandsire。\"（1。HawthorneinhisintroductiontoTheScarletLetter。）Withthousandsofmilesofsea-lineandascoreortwoofthefinestharborsontheglobe，wehaveadroitlyturnedoverourcarryingtradetoforeignnations。

Inotherdays，asIhavesaid，ahighmaritimespiritwascharacteristicofPortsmouth。Thetowndidaprofitablebusinessinthewarof1812，sendingoutalargefleetofthesauciestsmallcraftonrecord。Apleasantstoryistoldofoneoftheselittleprivateers——theHarlequin，ownedandcommandedbyCaptainElihuBrown。TheHarlequinonedaygavechasetoalargeship，whichdidnotseemtohavemuchfightaboard，andhadgotitintoclosequarters，whensuddenlytheshystrangerthrewopenherports，andprovedtobeHisMajesty’sShip-of-WarBulwark，seventy-fourguns。PoorCaptainBrown！

Portsmouthhasseverallargecottonfactoriesandoneortwocorpulentbreweries；itisawealthyoldtown，withalikingforfirstmortgagebonds；butitswarmestloverwillnotclaimforitthedistinctionofbeingagreatmercantilecentre。Themajorityofheryoungmenareforcedtoseekotherfieldstoreap，andalmosteverycityintheUnion，andmanyacityacrossthesea，canpointtosomeeminentmerchant，lawyer，orwhatnot，as\"aPortsmouthboy。\"PortsmouthevenfurnishedthelatekingoftheSandwichIslands，Kekuanaoa，withaprimeminister，andhisnankeenMajestyneverhadabetter。Theaffectionwhichalltheseexilescherishfortheirbirthplaceisworthyofremark。Ontwooccasions——in1852and1873，thetwohundredandfiftiethanniversaryofthesettlementofStrawberryBank——thetransplantedsonsofPortsmouthwereseizedwithanimpulsetoreturnhome。Simultaneouslyandalmostwithoutconcertedaction，thelinesofpilgrimstookuptheirmarchfromeveryquarteroftheglobe，andsweptdownwithmusicandbannersonthemotherlyoldtown。

Tocomebacktothewharves。IdonotknowofanyspotwithsuchafascinatingairofdreamsandidlenessaboutitastheoldwharfattheendofCourtStreet。Theveryfactthatitwasonceanoisy，busyplace，crowdedwithsailorsandsoldiers——inthewarof1812——givesanemphasistothequietthatbroodsoveritto-day。Theloungerwhositsofasummerafternoononarustyanchorflukeintheshadowofoneofthesilentwarehouses，andlookonthelonelyriverasitgoesmurmuringpastthetown，cannotbetoogratefultotheIndiatradeforhavingtakenitselfoffelsewhere。

Whataslumberous，delightful，lazyplaceitis！Thesunshineseemstolieafootdeepontheplanksofthedustywharf，whichyieldsuptothewarmthavagueperfumeofthecargoesofrum，molasses，andspicethatusedtobepileduponit。Theriverisasblueastheinsideofaharebell。Theoppositeshore，inthestrangelyshiftingmagiclightsofskyandwater，stretchesalonglikethesilverycoastoffairyland。Directlyoppositeyouisthenavyyard，anditsneatofficers’quartersandworkshopsandarsenals，anditsvastshiphouses，inwhichthekeelofmanyafamousfrigatehasbeenlaid。Thosemonsterbuildingsonthewater’sedge，withtheirroofspiercedwithinnumerablelittlewindows，whichblinklikeeyesinthesunlight，andtheshiphouses。Onyourrightliesaclusterofsmallislands，——thereareadozenormoreintheharbor——onthemostextensiveofwhichyouseethefading-awayremainsofsomeearthworksthrownupin1812。Betweenthis——Trefethren’sIsland——andPeirce’sIslandlietheNarrows。Perhapsabarkorasloop-of-warismakinguptotown；thehulkishiddenamoungtheislands，andthetopmastshavetheeffectofsweepingacrossthedryland。Onyourleftisalongbridge，morethanaquarterofamileinlength，setuponpileswherethewateristwentyorthirtyfeetdeep，leadingtothenavyyardandKittery——theKitterysooftenthethemeofWhittier’sverse。

Thisisamereoutlineofthelandscapethatspreadsbeforeyou。

Itschangefulbeautyofformandcolor，withthesummercloudsfloatingoverit，isnottobepaintedinwords。Iknowofmanyaplacewherethesceneryismorevariedandstriking；butthereisamandragoraqualityintheatmosphereherethatholdsyoutothespot，andmakesthehalf-hoursseemlikeminutes。Icouldfancyamansittingontheendofthatoldwharfverycontentedlyfortwoorthreeyears，provideditcouldbealwaysinJune。

Perhaps，too，onewoulddesireittobealwayshighwater。Thetidefallsfromeighttotwelvefeet，andwhenthewatermakesoutbetweenthewharvessomeofthepicturesquenessmakesoutalso。Acorrodedsectionofstovepipemailedinbarnacles，ortheskeletonofahoopskirtprotrudingfromthetidemudliketheremainsofsomeold-timewreck，isapttobreaktheenchantment。

IfearIhavegiventhereaderanexaggeratedideaofthesolitudethatreignsalongtheriver-side。Sometimesthereissocietyhereofanunconventionalkind，ifyoucaretoseekit。

Asidefromtheforeigngentlemanbeforementioned，youarelikelytoencounter，fartherdowntheshoretowardthePointofGraves（aburial-placeofthecolonialperiod），abatteredandagednativefishermanboilinglobstersonalittlegravellybench，wheretheriverwhispersandlispsamongthepebblesasthetidecreepsin。Itisaweather-beatenex-skipperorex-pilot，withstrandsofcoarsehair，likeseaweed，fallingaboutafacethathastheexpressionofahalf-openclam。Heisalwaysreadytotalkwithyou，thisamphibiousperson；andifheisnotthemostentertainingofgossips——moreweather-wisethatOldProbabilities，andasfullofmovingincidentasOthellohimself——thenheisnotthewintery-hairedshipmanIusedtoseeafewyearsagoonthestripofbeachjustbeyondLibertyBridge，buildinghisdrift-woodfireunderagreattinboiler，andmakingitlivelyforalotofreluctantlobsters。

Iimaginethatverylittlechangehastakenplaceinthisimmediatelocality，knownprosaicallyasPuddleDock，duringthepastfiftyorsixtyyears。TheviewyougetlookingacrossLibertyBridge，WaterStreet，isprobablythesameineveryrespectthatpresenteditselftotheeyesofthetownfolkacenturyago。Theflagstaff，ontheright，istherepresentativeoftheold\"standardofliberty\"whichtheSonsplantedonthisspotinJanuary，1766，signalizingtheiroppositiontotheenforcementoftheStampAct。OnthesameoccasionthepatriotscalledatthehouseofMr。GeorgeMeserve，theagentfordistributingthestampsinNewHampshire，andrelievedhimofhisstamp-master’scommission，whichdocumenttheycarriedonthepointofaswordthroughthetowntoLibertyBridge（theSwingBridge），wheretheyerectedthestaff，withthemotto，\"Liberty，Property，andnoStamp！\"

TheStampActwastogointooperationonthefirstdayofNovember。Onthepreviousmorningthe\"NewHampshireGazette\"

appearedwithadeepblackborderandallthetypographicalemblemsofaffliction，forwasnotLibertydead？Atallevents，the\"Gazette\"itselfwasasgoodasdead，sincetheprintercouldnolongerpublishitifheweretobehandicappedbyaheavytax。

\"Thedaywasusheredinbythetollingofallthebellsintown，thevesselsintheharborhadtheircolorshoistedhalf-masthigh；aboutthreeo’clockafuneralprocessionwasformed，havingacoffinwiththisinscription，LIBERTY，AGED145，STAMPT。Itmovedfromthestatehouse，withtwounbraceddrums，throughtheprincipalstreets。AsitpassedtheParade，minute-gunswerefired；attheplaceofintermentaspeechwasdeliveredontheoccasion，statingthemanyadvantageswehadreceivedandthemelancholyprospectbeforeus，attheseemingdepartureofourinvaluableliberties。Butsomesignoflifeappearing，Libertywasnotdepositedinthegrave；itwasrescuedbyanumberofhersons，themottochangedtoLibertyrevived，andcarriedoffintriumph。ThedetestableActwasburiedinitsstead，andtheclodsofthevalleywerelaiduponit；thebellschangedtheirmelancholysoundtoamorejoyfultone。\"（1。AnnalsofPortsmouth，byNathanielAdams，1825。）

Withthissideglanceatoneofthecurioushumorsofthetime，weresumeourperegrinations。

Turningdownalaneonyourleft，afewrodsbeyondLibertyBridge，youreachaspotknownasthePointofGraves，chieflyinterestingasshowingwhatagraveyardmaycometoifitlastlongenough。In1671oneCaptainJohnPickering，ofwhomweshallhavemoretosay，cededtothetownapieceofgroundonthisneckforburialpurposes。Itisanodd-shapedlot，comprisingabouthalfanacre，inclosedbyacrumblingredbrickwalltwoorthreefeethigh，withwoodcapping。Theplaceisovergrownwiththistles，rankgrass，andfungi；theblackslateheadstoneshavemostlyfallenover；thosethatstillmakeapretenseofstandingslanttoeverypointofthecompass，andlookasiftheywerebeingblownthiswayandthatbyamysteriousgalewhichleaveseverythingelseuntouched；themoundshavesunktothecommonlevel，andtheoldundergroundtombshavecollapsed。Hereandtherethemossandweedsyoucanpickoutsomenamethatshinesinthehistoryoftheearlysettlement；hundredsoftheflowerofthecolonyliehere，buttheknownandtheunknown，gentleandsimple，mingletheirdustonaperfectequalitynow。Themarblethatonceboreahaughtycoatofarmsisassmoothasthehumblestslatestoneguiltlessofheraldry。Thelionandtheunicorn，wherevertheyappearonsomecrackedslab，areverymuchtamedbytime。Theoncefat-facedcherubs，withwingateithercheek，arethemerestskeletonsnow。Pride，pomp，grief，andremembranceareallatend。Noreverentfeetcomehere，notearsfallhere；theoldgraveyarditselfisdead！Amoredismal，uncannyspotthanthisattwilightwouldbehardtofind。Itisnoticedthatwhentheboyspassitafternightfall，theyalwaysgobywhistlingwithagayetythatisperfectlyhollow。

Letusgetintosomecheerfulerneighborhood！

III。

ASTROLLABOUTTOWN

ASyouleavetheriverfrontbehindyou，andpass\"uptown，\"thestreetsgrowwider，andthearchitecturebecomesmoreambitious——streetsfringedwithbeautifuloldtreesandlinedwithcommodiousprivatedwellings，mostlysquarewhitehouses，withspacioushallsrunningthroughthecentre。PrevioustotheRevolution，whitepaintwasseldomusedonhouses，andthediamond-shapedwindowpanewasalmostuniversal。Manyoftheresidencesstandbackfromthebrickorflagstonesidewalk，andhaveprettygardensatthesideorintherear，madebrightwithdahliasandsweetwithcinnamonroses。Ifyouchancetoliveinatownwheretheauthoritiescannotrestuntiltheyhavedestroyedeveryprecioustreewithintheirblightingreach，youwillbeespeciallycharmedbythebeautyofthestreetsofPortsmouth。

Insomepartsofthetown，whenthechestnutsareinblossom，youwouldfancyyourselfinagardeninfairyland。Inspring，summer，andautumnthefoliageisthegloryofthefairtown——herluxuriantgreenandgoldentreeses！NothingcouldseemmoreliketheworkofenchantmentthanthespectaclewhichcertainstreetsinPortsmouthpresentinthemidwinterafteraheavysnowstorm。

Youmaywalkformilesunderwonderfulsilveryarchesformedbytheoverhangingandinterlacedboughsofthetrees，festoonedwithadraperyevenmoregracefulanddazzlingthanspringtimegivesthem。Thenumerouselmsandmapleswhichshadetheprincipalthoroughfaresarenottheresultofchance，buttheamplerewardofthelovingcarethatistakentopreservethetrees。ThereisasocietyinPortsmouthdevotedtoarboriculture。Itisnotunusualthereforpersonstoleavelegaciestobeexpendedinsettingoutshadeandornamentaltreesalongsomefavoritewalk。RichardsAvenue，along，unbuiltthoroughfareleadingfromMiddleStreettotheSouthBurying-Ground，perpetuatesthenameofacitizenwhogavethelaborofhisownhandstothebeautifyingofthatwindsweptandbarrenroadthecemetery。Thisfondnessandcarefortreesseemstobeamatterofheredity。Sofarbackas1660theselectmeninstitutedafineoffiveshillingsforthecuttingoftimberoranyotherwoodfromoffthetowncommon，exceptingunderspecialconditions。

Inthebusinesssectionofthetowntreesarefew。ThechiefbusinessstreetsareCongressandMarket。MarketStreetisthestrongholdofthedry-goodsshops。Thereareseasons，Isuppose，whentheseshopsarecrowded，butIhaveneverhappenedtobeinPortsmouthatthetime。Iseldompassthroughthenarrowcobble-pavedstreetwithoutwonderingwherethecustomersarethatmustkeepalltheseflourishinglittleestablishmentsgoing。

CongressStreet——amoreelegantthoroughfarethanMarket——istheNevskiProspektofPortsmouth。AmongtheprominentbuildingsistheAthenaeum，containingareading-roomandlibrary。Fromthehighroofofthisbuildingthestrollerwilldowelltotakeaglanceatthesurroundingcountry。Hewillnaturallyturnseawardforthemorepicturesqueaspects。Ifthedayisclear，hewillseethefamousIsleofShoals，lyingninemilesaway——Appledore，Smutty-Nose，StarIsland，WhiteIsland，etc。；

therearenineoftheminall。OnAppledoreisLaighton’sHotel，andnearitthesummercottageofCeliaThaxter，thepoetoftheIsles。OnthenorthernendofStarIslandisthequainttownofGosport，withatinystonechurchperchedlikeasea-gullonitshighestrock。AmilesouthwestformStarIslandliesWhiteIsland，onwhichisalighthouse。Mrs。Thaxtercallsthisthemostpicturesqueofthegroup。Perilousneighbors，Omariner！inanybuttheserenestweather，thesewrinkled，scarred，arestorm-smittenrocks，flankedbywickedsunkenledgesthatgrowwhiteatthelipwithragewhenthegreatwindsblow！

Howpeacefulitalllooksoffthere，onthesmoothemeraldsea！

andhowsoftlythewavesseemtobreakonyonderpointwheretheunfinishedfortis！ThatistheancienttownofNewcastle，toreachwhichfromPortsmouthyouhavetocrossthreebridgeswiththemostenchantingsceneryinNewHampshirelyingoneitherhand。AtNewcastlethepoetStedmanhasbuiltforhissummeringsanenviablelittlestonechateau——aseashellintowhichIfancythesirenscreeptowarmthemselvesduringthewintermonths。Soitisneverwithoutitssinger。

OppositeNewcastleisKitteryPoint，aromanticspot，whereSirWilliamPepperell，thefirstAmericanbaronet，oncelived，andwherehistombnowis，inhisorchardacrosstheroad，afewhundredyardsfromthe\"goodlymansion\"hebuilt。Theknight’stombandtheoldPepperellHouse，whichhasbeensomewhatcurtailedofitfairproportions，aretheobjectsoffrequentpilgrimagestoKitteryPoint。

Fromtheelevation（theroofoftheAthenaeun）thenavyyard，theriverwithitsbridgesandislands，theclusteredgablesofKitteryandNewcastle，theillimitableoceanbeyondmakeapictureworthclimbingfourorfiveflightsofstairstogazeupon。Glancingdownonthetownnestledinthefoliage，itseemslikeatowndroppedbychanceinthemidstofaforest。Amongtheprominentobjectswhichliftthemselvesabovethetreetopsarethebelfriesofthevariouschurches，thewhitefa鏰deofthecustomhouse，andthemansardandchimneysoftheRockingham，theprincipalhotel。ThepilgrimwillbesurprisedtofindinPortsmouthoneofthemostcompletelyappointedhotelsintheUnitedStates。TheantiquarianmaylamentthedemolitionoftheoldBellTavern，andthinkregretfullyofthegoodcheeroncefurnishedthewayfarerbyMasterStaversatthesignoftheEarlofHalifax，andbyMasterStoodleyathisinnonDanielStreet；

buttheordinarytravelerwillthankhisstars，andconfessthathislineshavefalleninpleasantplaces，whenhefindshimselfamongthefrescoesoftheRockingham。

ObliquelyoppositethedoorstepoftheAthenaeum——wearesupposedtobeonterrafirmaagain——standstheOldNorthChurch，asubstantialwoodenbuilding，handsomelysetonwhatiscalledTheParade，alargeopenspaceformedbythejunctionofCongress，Market，Daniel，andPleasantstreets。Hereindaysinnocentofwater-worksstoodthetownpump，whichonmorethanoneoccasionservedaswhipping-post。

ThechurchesofPortsmoutharemoreremarkablefortheirnumberthantheirarchitecture。WiththeexceptionoftheStoneChurchtheyareconstructedofwoodorplainbrickinthesimpleststyle。St。John’sChurchistheonlyonelikelytoattracttheeyeofastranger。ItisfinelysituatedonthecrestofChurchHill，overlookingtheever-beautifulriver。Thepresentedificewasbuiltin1808onthesiteofwhatwasknownasQueen’sChapel，erectedin1732，anddestroyedbyfireDecember24，1806。

ThechapelwasnamedinhonorofQueenCaroline，whofurnishedthebooksforthealtarandpulpit，theplate，andtwosolidmahoganychairs，whicharestillinuseinSt。John’s。Withinthechancelrailisacuriousfontofporphyry，takenbyColonelJohnTuftonMasonatthecaptureofSenegalfromtheFrenchin1758，andpresentedtotheEpiscopalSocietyon1761。Thepeculiarlysweet-tonedbellwhichcallstheparishionersofSt。

John’stogethereverySabbathis，Ibelieve，thesamethatformerlyhunginthebelfryoftheoldQueen’sChapel。Ifso，thebellhasahistoryofitsown。ItwasbroughtfromLouisburgatthetimeofthereductionofthatplacein1745，andgiventothechurchbytheofficersoftheNewHampshiretroops。

TheOldSouthMeeting-Houseisnottobepassedwithoutmention。

Itisamongthemostagedsurvivalsofpre-revolutionarydays。

Neitheritsarchitecturenotitsage，however，isitschiefwarrantforournotice。Theabsurdnumberofwindowsinthisbatteredoldstructureiswhatstrikesthepasser-by。Thechurchwaserectedbysubscription，andthesecloselysetlargewindowsareduetoHenrySherburne，oneofthewealthiestcitizensoftheperiod，whoagreedtopayforwhateverglasswasused。Ifthebuildingcouldhavebeencomposedentirelyofglassitwouldhavebeendonebythethriftyparishioners。

Portsmouthisrichingraveyards——theyseemtobeaNewEnglandspecialty——ancientandmodern。Amongtheoldburial-placestheoneattachedtoSt。John’sChurchisperhapsthemostinteresting。Ithasnotbeenpermittedtofallintoruin，liketheoldcemeteryatthePointofGraves。Whenaheadstoneheretopplesoveritiskindlyliftedupandsetonitspinsagain，andencouragedtodoitsduty。Ifitutterlyrefuses，andisnotshammingdecrepitude，ithasitsfacesponged，andisallowedtorestandsunitselfagainstthewallofthechurchwitharowofotherexempts。Thetreesarekeptpruned，thegrasstrimmed，andhereandthereisarosebushdroopingwithaweightofpensivepaleroses，asbecomesarosebushinachurchyard。

Theplacehasaboutitanindescribablesoothingatmosphereofrespectabilityandcomfort。HereresttheremainsoftheprincipalandloftiestinrankintheirgenerationofthecitizensofPortsmouthpriortotheRevolution——stanch，royalty-lovinggovernors，counselors，andsecretariesoftheProvidenceofNewHampshire，allsnuglygatheredunderthemotherlywingoftheChurchofEngland。Itisalmostimpossibletowalkanywherewithoutsteppingonagovernor。Yougrowhaughtyinspiritafterawhile，andscorntotreadonanythinglessthanoneofHisMajesty’scolonelsorsecretaryundertheCrown。HerearethetombsoftheAtkinsons，theJaffreys，theSherburnes，theSheafes，theMarshes，theMannings，theGardners，andothersofthequality。Allaroundyouunderfootaretumbled-incoffins，withhereandtherearustyswordatop，andfadedescutcheons，andcrumblingarmorialdevices。Youaremovingintheverybestsociety。

This，however，isnottheearliestcemeteryinPortsmouth。Anhour’swalkfromtheEpiscopalyardwillbringyoutothespot，alreadymentioned，wherethefirsthousewasbuiltandthefirstgravemade，atOdiorne’sPoint。TheexactsiteoftheManorisnotknown，butitissupposedtobeafewrodsnorthofanoldwellofstill-flowingwater，atwhichtheTomsonsandtheHiltonsandtheircomradesslakedtheirthirstmorethantwohundredandsixtyyearsago。Oriorne’sPointisownedbyMr。EbenL。Odiorne，alinealdescendantoftheworthywhoheldthepropertyin1657。

Notfarfromtheoldspringistheresting-placeoftheearliestpioneers。

\"ThisfirstcemeteryofthewhitemaninNewHampshire，\"writesMr。Brewster，（1。Mr。CharlesW。Brewster，fornearlyfiftyyearstheeditorofthePortsmouthJournal，andtheauthoroftwovolumesoflocalsketchestowhichthewriterofthesepageshereacknowledgeshisindebtedness。）\"occupiesaspaceofperhapsonehundredfeetbyninety，andiswellwalledin。Thewesternsideisnowusedasaburial-placeforthefamily，buttwothirdsofitisfilledwithperhapsfortygraves，indicatedbyroughheadandfootstones。Whothererestnoonenowlivingknows。Butthesamecareistakenoftheirquietbedsasiftheywereoftheproprietor’sownfamily。In1631Masonsentoverabouteightyemigrantsmanyofwhomdiedinafewyears，andheretheywereprobablyburied。Heretoo，doubtless，resttheremainsofseveralofthosewhosenamesstandconspicuousinourearlystaterecords。\"

IV。

ASTROLLABOUTTOWN（continued）

WHENWashingtonvisitedPortsmouthin1789hewasnotmuchimpressedbythearchitectureofthelittletownthathadstoodbyhimsostoutlyinthestruggleforindependence。\"Therearesomegoodhouses，\"hewrites，inadiarykeptthatyearduringatourthroughConnecticut，Massachusetts，andNewHampshire，\"

amongwhichColonelLangdon’smaybeesteemedthefirst；butingeneraltheyareindifferent，andalmostentirelyofwood。Onwonderingatthis，asthecountryisfullofstoneandgoodclayforbricks，Iwastoldthatonaccountofthefogsanddamptheydeemedthemwholesomer，andforthatreasonpreferredwoodbuildings。\"

ThehouseofColonelLangdon，onPleasantStreet，isanexcellentsampleofthesolidanddignifiedabodeswhichourgreat-grandsireshadthesensetobuild。Theartoftheirconstructionseemstohavebeenalostartthesefiftyyears。

HereGovernorJohnLangdonresidedfrom1782untilthetimeofhisdeathin1819——aperiodduringwhichmanyanillustriousmanpassedbetweenthosetwowhitepillarsthatsupportthelittlebalconyoverthefrontdoor；amongtherestLouisPhilippeandhisbrothers，theDucsdeMontpensierandBeaujolais，andtheMarquisdeChastellus，amajor-generalintheFrencharmy，servingundertheCountdeRochambeau，whomheaccompaniedfromFrancetotheStatesin1780。Thejournalofthemarquiscontainsthisreferencetohishost：\"AfterdinnerwewenttodrinkteawithMr。Langdon。Heisahandsomeman，andofnoblecarriage；hehasbeenamemberofCongress，andisnowoneofthefirstpeopleofthecountry；hishouseiselegantandwellfurnished，andtheapartmentsadmirablywellwainscoted\"（thisreadslikeMr。SamuelPepys）；\"andhehasagoodmanuscriptchartoftheharborofPortsmouth。Mrs。Langdon，hiswife，isyoung，fair，andtolerablyhandsome，butIconversedlesswithherthanherhusband，inwhosefavorIwasprejudicedfromknowingthathehaddisplayedgreatcourageandpatriotismatthetimeofBurgoynes’sexpedition。\"

ItwasattheheightoftheFrenchRevolutionthatthethreesonsoftheDued’OrleanswereentertainedattheLangdonmansion。

Yearsafterward，whenLouisPhilippewasonthethroneofFrance，heinquiredofaPortsmouthladypresentedathiscourtifthemansionofcebraveGouverneurLangdonwasstillinexistence。

Thehousestandsbackadecorousdistancefromthestreet，undertheshadowsofsomegiganticoaksorelms，andpresentsanimposingappearanceasyouapproachitoverthetessellatedmarblewalk。Ahundredortwofeetoneithersideofthegate，andabuttingonthestreet，isasmallsquarebuildingofbrick，onestoryinheight——probablytheporter’slodgeandtool-houseofformerdays。Thereisalargefruitgardenattachedtothehouse，whichisinexcellentcondition，takinglifecomfortably，andhavingthecomplacentairofawell-preservedbeauoftheancienregime。TheLangdonmansionwasownedandlongoccupiedbythelateRev。Dr。Burroughs，foraperiodofforty-sevenyearstheesteemedrectororSt。John’sChurch。

AttheotherendofPleasantStreetisanothernotablehouse，towhichweshallcomebyandby。ThoughPresidentWashingtonfoundPortsmouthbutmoderatelyattractivefromanarchitecturalpointofview，thevisitorofto-day，ifhehaveanantiquariantaste，willfindhimselfembarrassedbythenumberoflocalitiesandbuildingsthatappealtohisinterest。ManyofthesebuildingswerenewandundoubtedlycommonplaceenoughatthedateofWashington’svisit；timeandassociationhavegiventhemaquaintnessandasignificancewhichnowmaketheirarchitectureaquestionofsecondaryimportance。