Whyshoulditbecheapertoerectastructurewherethesizeofthewindowsbearsnorationalrelationtothesizeofthefront？Isthereanyprofitinamisplacedchimney-stalk？Doesahard-working，greedybuildergainmoreonamonstrositythanonadecentcottageofequalplainness？Frankly，weshouldsay，No。Bricksmaybeomitted，andgreentimberemployed，intheconstructionofevenaveryelegantdesign；andthereisnoreasonwhyachimneyshouldbemadetovent，becauseitissosituatedastolookcomelyfromwithout。Ontheotherhand，thereisanoblewayofbeingugly：ahigh-aspiringfiascolikethefallofLucifer。Therearedaringandgaudybuildingsthatmanagetobeoffensive，withoutbeingcontemptible；andweknowthat’foolsrushinwhereangelsfeartotread。’Buttoaimatmakingacommon-
placevilla，andtomakeitinsufferablyuglyineachparticular；toattemptthehomeliestachievement，andtoattainthebottomofderidedfailure；nottohaveanytheorybutprofitandyet，atanequalexpense，tooutstripallcompetitorsintheartofconceivingandrenderingpermanentdeformity；andtodoallthisinwhatis，bynature，oneofthemostagreeableneighbourhoodsinBritain：-whatarewetosay，butthatthisalsoisadistinction，hardtoearnalthoughnotgreatlyworshipful？
Indifferentbuildingsgivepaintothesensitive；
butthesethingsoffendtheplainesttaste。Itisadangerwhichthreatenstheamenityofthetown；andasthiseruptionkeepsspreadingonourborders，wehaveeverthefarthertowalkamongunpleasantsights，beforewegainthecountryair。IfthepopulationofEdinburghwerealiving，autonomousbody，itwouldariselikeonemanandmakenighthideouswitharson；thebuildersandtheiraccompliceswouldbedriventowork，liketheJewsofyore，withthetrowelinonehandandthedefensivecutlassintheother；andassoonasoneofthesemasonicwondershadbeenconsummated，right-mindediconoclastsshouldfallthereonandmakeanendofitatonce。
Possiblythesewordsmaymeettheeyeofabuilderortwo。Itisnouseaskingthemtoemployanarchitect；
forthatwouldbetotouchtheminadelicatequarter，anditsusewouldlargelydependonwhatarchitecttheyweremindedtocallin。Butletthemgetanyarchitectintheworldtopointoutanyreasonablywell-
proportionedvilla，nothisowndesign；andletthemreproducethatmodeltosatiety。
CHAPTERVIII。
THECALTONHILL。
THEeastofnewEdinburghisguardedbyacraggyhill，ofnogreatelevation，whichthetownembraces。
TheoldLondonroadrunsononesideofit；whiletheNewApproach，leavingitontheotherhand，completesthecircuit。Youmountbystairsinacuttingoftherocktofindyourselfinafieldofmonuments。DugaldStewarthasthehonoursofsituationandarchitecture；Burnsismemorialisedlowerdownuponaspur；LordNelson，asbefitsasailor，giveshisnametothetop-gallantoftheCaltonHill。Thislattererectionhasbeendifferentlyandyet，inbothcases，aptlycomparedtoatelescopeandabutter-churn；comparisonsapart，itranksamongthevilestofmen’shandiworks。Butthechieffeatureisanunfinishedrangeofcolumns，’theModernRuin’asithasbeencalled，animposingobjectfromfarandnear，andgivingEdinburgh，evenfromthesea，thatfalseair；ofaModernAthenswhichhasearnedforhersomanyslightingspeeches。ItwasmeanttobeaNationalMonument；anditspresentstateisaverysuitablemonumenttocertainnationalcharacteristics。TheoldObservatory-aquaintbrownbuildingontheedgeofthesteep-andthenewObservatory-aclassicaledificewithadome-occupythecentralportionofthesummit。Allthesearescatteredonagreenturf，browsedoverbysomesheep。
Thescenesuggestsreflectionsonfameandonman’sinjusticetothedead。YouseeDugaldStewartrathermorehandsomelycommemoratedthanBurns。Immediatelybelow，intheCanongatechurchyard，liesRobertFergusson，Burns’smasterinhisart，whodiedinsanewhileyetastripling；andifDugaldStewarthasbeensomewhattooboisterouslyacclaimed，theEdinburghpoet，ontheotherhand，ismostunrighteouslyforgotten。ThevotariesofBurns，acrewtoocommoninallranksinScotlandandmoreremarkablefornumberthandiscretion，eagerlysuppressallmentionoftheladwhohandedtohimthepoeticimpulseand，uptothetimewhenhegrewfamous，continuedtoinfluencehiminhismannerandthechoiceofsubjects。Burnshimselfnotonlyacknowledgedhisdebtinafragmentofautobiography，buterectedatomboverthegraveinCanongatechurchyard。Thiswasworthyofanartist，butitwasdoneinvain；andalthoughIthinkIhavereadnearlyallthebiographiesofBurns，Icannotrememberoneinwhichthemodestyofnaturewasnotviolated，orwhereFergussonwasnotsacrificedtothecreditofhisfollower’soriginality。
ThereisakindofgapingadmirationthatwouldfainrollShakespeareandBaconintoone，tohaveabiggerthingtogapeat；andaclassofmenwhocannoteditoneauthorwithoutdisparagingallothers。Theyareindeedmistakeniftheythinktopleasethegreatoriginals；andwhoeverputsFergussonrightwithfame，cannotdobetterthandedicatehislabourstothememoryofBurns，whowillbethebestdelightedofthedead。
Ofallplacesforaview，thisCaltonHillisperhapsthebest；sinceyoucanseetheCastle，whichyoulosefromtheCastle，andArthur’sSeat，whichyoucannotseefromArthur’sSeat。Itistheplacetostrollononeofthosedaysofsunshineandeastwindwhicharesocommoninourmorethantemperatesummer。Thebreezecomesoffthesea，withalittleofthefreshness，andthattouchofchill，peculiartothequarter，whichisdelightfultocertainveryruddyorganizationsandgreatlythereversetothemajorityofmankind。Itbringswithitafaint，floatinghaze，acunningdecolourizer，althoughnotthickenoughtoobscureoutlinesnearathand。ButthehazeliesmorethicklytowindwardatthefarendofMusselburghBay；andovertheLinksofAberladyandBerwickLawandthehumpoftheBassRockitassumestheaspectofabankofthinseafog。
Immediatelyunderneathuponthesouth，youcommandtheyardsoftheHighSchool，andthetowersandcourtsofthenewJail-alargeplace，castellatedtotheextentoffolly，standingbyitselfontheedgeofasteepcliff，andoftenjoyfullyhailedbytouristsastheCastle。Intheone，youmayperhapsseefemaleprisonerstakingexerciselikeastringofnuns；intheother，schoolboysrunningatplayandtheirshadowskeepingstepwiththem。Fromthebottomofthevalley，agiganticchimneyrisesalmosttotheleveloftheeye，atallerandashapelieredificethanNelson’sMonument。Lookalittlefarther，andthereisHolyroodPalace，withitsGothicfrontalandruinedabbey，andtheredsentrypacingsmartlytooandfrobeforethedoorlikeamechanicalfigureinapanorama。Bywayofanoutpost，youcansingleoutthelittlepeak-roofedlodge，overwhichRizzio’smurderersmadetheirescapeandwhereQueenMaryherself，accordingtogossip，bathedinwhitewinetoentertainherloveliness。Behindandoverhead，lietheQueen’sPark，fromMuschat’sCairntoDumbiedykes，St。Margaret’sLoch，andthelongwallofSalisburyCrags：andthence，byknollandrockybulwarkandprecipitousslope，theeyerisestothetopofArthur’sSeat，ahillformagnitude，amountaininvirtueofitsbolddesign。Thisuponyourleft。Upontheright，theroofsandspiresoftheOldTownclimboneaboveanothertowherethecitadelprintsitsbroadbulkandjaggedcrownofbastionsonthewesternsky-
Perhapsitisnowoneintheafternoon；andatthesameinstantoftime，aballrisestothesummitofNelson’sflagstaffcloseathand，and，faraway，apuffofsmokefollowedbyareportburstsfromthehalf-moonbatteryattheCastle。Thisisthetime-gunbywhichpeoplesettheirwatches，asfarastheseacoastorinhillfarmsuponthePentlands-Tocompletetheview，theeyeenfiladesPrincesStreet，blackwithtraffic，andhasabroadlookoverthevalleybetweentheOldTownandtheNew：here，fullofrailwaytrainsandsteppedoverbythehighNorthBridgeuponitsmanycolumns，andthere，greenwithtreesandgardens。
Onthenorth，theCaltonHillisneithersoabruptinitselfnorhasitsoexceptionalanoutlook；andyetevenhereitcommandsastrikingprospect。AgullyseparatesitfromtheNewTown。ThisisGreenside，wherewitcheswereburnedandtournamentsheldinformerdays。
Downthatalmostprecipitousbank，Bothwelllaunchedhishorse，andsofirst，astheysay，attractedthebrighteyesofMary。Itisnowtesselatedwithsheetsandblanketsouttodry，andthesoundofpeoplebeatingcarpetsisrarelyabsent。Beyondallthis，thesuburbsrunouttoLeith；Leithcampsontheseasidewithherforestofmasts；Leithroadsarefullofshipsatanchor；
thesunpicksoutthewhitepharosuponInchkeithIsland；
theFirthextendsoneitherhandfromtheFerrytotheMay；thetownsofFifeshiresit，eachinitsbankofblowingsmoke，alongtheoppositecoast；andthehillsenclosetheview，excepttothefarthesteast，wherethehazeofthehorizonrestsupontheopensea。ThereliestheroadtoNorway：adearroadforSirPatrickSpensandhisScotsLords；andyondersmokeonthehithersideofLargoLawisAberdour，fromwhencetheysailedtoseekaqueenforScotland。
’Olang，lang，maytheladiessit，Wi’theirfansintotheirhand，OreretheyseeSirPatrickSpensComesailingtotheland！’
Thesightofthesea，evenfromacity，willbringthoughtsofstormandseadisaster。Thesailors’wivesofLeithandthefisherwomenofCockenzie，notsittinglanguorouslywithfans，butcrowdingtothetailoftheharbourwithashawlabouttheirears，maystilllookvainlyforbraveScotsmenwhowillreturnnomore，orboatsthathavegoneontheirlastfishing。SinceSirPatricksailedfromAberdour，whatamultitudehavegonedownintheNorthSea！YonderisAuldhame，wheretheLondonsmackwentashoreandwreckerscuttheringsfromladies’fingers；andafewmilesroundFifeNessisthefatalInchcape，nowastarofguidance；andtheleeshoretotheeastoftheInchcape，isthatForfarshirecoastwhereMucklebackitsorrowedforhisson。
Thesearethemainfeaturesofthesceneroughlysketched。Howtheyarealltiltedbytheinclinationoftheground，howeachstandsoutindelicatereliefagainsttherest，whatmanifolddetail，andplayofsunandshadow，animateandaccentuatethepicture，isamatterforapersononthespot，andturningswiftlyonhisheels，tograspandbindtogetherinonecomprehensivelook。Itisthecharacterofsuchaprospect，tobefullofchangeandofthingsmoving。Themultiplicityembarrassestheeye；andthemind，amongsomuch，suffersitselftogrowabsorbedwithsinglepoints。
Youremarkatreeinahedgerow，orfollowacartalongacountryroad。Youturntothecity，andseechildren，dwarfedbydistanceintopigmies，atplayaboutsuburbandoorsteps；youhaveaglimpseuponathoroughfarewherepeoplearedenselymoving；younoteridgeafterridgeofchimney-stacksrunningdownhillonebehindanother，andchurchspiresrisingbravelyfromtheseaofroofs。Atoneoftheinnumerablewindows，youwatchafiguremoving；ononeofthemultitudeofroofs，youwatchclamberingchimney-sweeps。Thewindtakesarunandscattersthesmoke；bellsareheard，farandnear，faintandloud，totellthehour；orperhapsabirdgoesdippingevenlyoverthehousetops，likeagullacrossthewaves。Andhereyouareinthemeantime，onthispastoralhillside，amongnibblingsheepandlookeduponbymonumentalbuildings。
Returnthitheronsomeclear，dark，moonlessnight，witharingoffrostintheair，andonlyastarortwosetsparsedlyinthevaultofheaven；andyouwillfindasightasstimulatingasthehoariestsummitoftheAlps。
Thesolitudeseemsperfect；thepatientastronomer，flatonhisbackundertheObservatorydomeandspyingheaven’ssecrets，isyouronlyneighbour；andyetfromallroundyoutherecomeupthedullhumofthecity，thetrampofcountlesspeoplemarchingoutoftime，therattleofcarriagesandthecontinuouskeenjingleofthetramwaybells。Anhourorsobefore，thegaswasturnedon；lamplightersscouredthecity；ineveryhouse，fromkitchentoattic，thewindowskindledandgleamedforthintothedusk。Andsonow，althoughthetownliesblueanddarklingonherhills，innumerablespotsofthebrightelementshinefarandnearalongthepavementsanduponthehighfacades。Movinglightsoftherailwaypassandrepassbelowthestationarylightsuponthebridge。
Lightsburninthejail。LightsburnhighupinthetallLANDSandontheCastleturrets，theyburnlowdowninGreensideoralongthePark。Theyrunoutonebeyondtheotherintothedarkcountry。TheywalkinaprocessiondowntoLeith，andshinesinglyfaralongLeithPier。
Thus，theplanofthecityandhersuburbsismappedoutuponthegroundofblackness，aswhenachildpricksadrawingfullofpinholesandexposesitbeforeacandle；
notthedarkestnightofwintercanconcealherhighstationandfancifuldesign；everyeveningintheyearsheproceedstoilluminateherselfinhonourofherownbeauty；andasiftocompletethescheme-orratherasifsomeprodigalPharaohwerebeginningtoextendtotheadjacentseaandcountry-half-wayovertoFife，thereisanoutpostoflightuponInchkeith，andfartoseaward，yetanotherontheMay。
Andwhileyouarelooking，acrossupontheCastleHill，thedrumsandbuglesbegintorecallthescatteredgarrison；theairthrillswiththesound；thebuglessingaloud；andthelastrisingflourishmountsandmeltsintothedarknesslikeastar：amartialswan-song，fitlyroundinginthelaboursoftheday。
CHAPTERIX。
WINTERANDNEWYEAR。
THEScotchdialectissingularlyrichintermsofreproachagainstthewinterwind。SNELL，BLAE，NIRLY，andSCOWTHERING，arefourofthesesignificantvocables；
theyareallwordsthatcarryashiverwiththem；andformypart，asIseethemalignedbeforemeonthepage，I
ampersuadedthatabigwindcomestearingovertheFirthfromBurntislandandthenorthernhills；IthinkIcanhearithowlinthechimney，andasIsetmyfacenorthwards，feelitssmartingkissesonmycheek。Eveninthenamesofplacesthereisoftenadesolate，inhospitablesound；andIremembertwofromthenearneighbourhoodofEdinburgh，CauldhameandBlaw-weary，thatwouldpromisebutstarvingcomforttotheirinhabitants。Theinclemencyofheaven，whichhasthusendowedthelanguageofScotlandwithwords，hasalsolargelymodifiedthespiritofitspoetry。Bothpovertyandanorthernclimateteachmentheloveofthehearthandthesentimentofthefamily；andthelatter，initsownright，inclinesapoettothepraiseofstrongwaters。InScotland，alloursingershaveastaveortwoforblazingfiresandstoutpotations：-togetindoorsoutofthewindandtoswallowsomethinghottothestomach，arebenefitssoeasilyappreciatedwheretheydwelt！
Andthisisnotonlysoincountrydistrictswheretheshepherdmustwadeinthesnowalldayafterhisflock，butinEdinburghitself，andnowheremoreapparentlystatedthanintheworksofourEdinburghpoet，Fergusson。Hewasadelicateyouth，Itakeit，andwillinglyslunkfromtherobustiouswintertoaninnfire-side。Lovewasabsentfromhislife，oronlypresent，ifyouprefer，insuchaformthateventheleastseriousofBurns’samouretteswasennoblingbycomparison；andsothereisnothingtotemperthesentimentofindoorrevelrywhichpervadesthepoorboy’sverses。Althoughitischaracteristicofhisnativetown，andthemannersofitsyouthtothepresentday，thisspirithasperhapsdonesomethingtorestricthispopularity。Herecallsasupper-partypleasantrywithsomethingakintotenderness；andsoundsthepraisesoftheactofdrinkingasifitwerevirtuous，oratleastwitty，initself。Thekindlyjar，thewarmatmosphereoftavernparlours，andtherevelryoflawyers’clerks，donotofferbythemselvesthematerialsofarichexistence。Itwasnotchoice，somuchasanexternalfate，thatkeptFergussoninthisroundofsordidpleasures。AScotofpoetictemperament，andwithoutreligiousexaltation，dropsasifbynatureintothepublic-house。Thepicturemaynotbepleasing；butwhatelseisamantodointhisdog’sweather？
Tononebutthosewhohavethemselvessufferedthethinginthebody，canthegloomanddepressionofourEdinburghwinterbebroughthome。Forsomeconstitutionsthereissomethingalmostphysicallydisgustinginthebleakuglinessofeasterlyweather；thewindwearies，thesicklyskydepressesthem；andtheyturnbackfromtheirwalktoavoidtheaspectoftheunrefulgentsungoingdownamongperturbedandpallidmists。Thedaysaresoshortthatamandoesmuchofhisbusiness，andcertainlyallhispleasure，bythehaggardglareofgaslamps。Theroadsareasheavyasafallow。Peoplegoby，sodrenchedanddraggle-tailedthatIhaveoftenwonderedhowtheyfoundthehearttoundress。Andmeantimethewindwhistlesthroughthetownasifitwereanopenmeadow；andifyoulieawakeallnight，youhearitshriekingandravingoverheadwithanoiseofshipwrecksandoffallinghouses。Inaword，lifeissounsightlythattherearetimeswhentheheartturnssickinaman’sinside；andthelookofatavern，orthethoughtofthewarm，fire-litstudy，islikethetouchoflandtoonewhohasbeenlongstrugglingwiththeseas。
Astheweatherhardenstowardsfrost，theworldbeginstoimproveforEdinburghpeople。Weenjoysuperb，sub-arcticsunsets，withtheprofileofthecitystampedinindigouponaskyofluminousgreen。Thewindmaystillbecold，butthereisabrisknessintheairthatstirsgoodblood。Peopledonotalllookequallysouranddowncast。Theyfallintotwodivisions：one，theknightofthebluefaceandhollowpaunch，whomWinterhasgottenbythevitals；theotherwelllinedwithNew-
year’sfare，consciousofthetouchofcoldonhisperiphery，butsteppingthroughitbytheglowofhisinternalfires。SuchanoneIremember，triplycasedingrease，whomnoextremityoftemperaturecouldvanquish。
’Well，’wouldbehisjovialsalutation，’here’sasneezer！’Andthelookofthesewarmfellowsistonic，andupholdstheirdroopingfellow-townsmen。Thereisyetanotherclasswhodonotdependoncorporaladvantages，butsupportthewinterinvirtueofabraveandmerryheart。Oneshiveringevening，coldenoughforfrostbutwithtoohighawind，andalittlepastsundown，whenthelampswerebeginningtoenlargetheircirclesinthegrowingdusk，abraceofbarefootlassieswereseencomingeastwardintheteethofthewind。Iftheonewasasmuchasnine，theotherwascertainlynotmorethanseven。Theyweremiserablyclad；andthepavementwassocold，youwouldhavethoughtnoonecouldlayanakedfootonitunflinching。Yettheycamealongwaltzing，ifyouplease，whiletheeldersangatunetogivethemmusic。Thepersonwhosawthis，andwhoseheartwasfullofbitternessatthemoment，pocketedareproofwhichhasbeenofusetohimeversince，andwhichhenowhandson，withhisgoodwishes，tothereader。
Atlength，Edinburgh，withhersatellitehillsandalltheslopingcountry，aresheetedupinwhite。Ifithashappenedinthedarkhours，nursesplucktheirchildrenoutofbedandrunwiththemtosomecommandingwindow，whencetheymayseethechangethathasbeenworkeduponearth’sface。’A’thehillsarecoveredwi’
snaw，’theysing，’andWinter’snoocomefairly！’Andthechildren，marvellingatthesilenceandthewhitelandscape，findaspellappropriatetotheseasoninthewords。Thereverberationofthesnowincreasesthepaledaylight，andbringsallobjectsnearertheeye。ThePentlandsaresmoothandglittering，withhereandtheretheblackribbonofadry-stonedyke，andhereandthere，iftherebewind，acloudofblowingsnowuponashoulder。TheFirthseemsaleadencreek，thatamanmightalmostjumpacross，betweenwell-powderedLothianandwell-powderedFife。Andtheeffectisnot，asinothercities，athingofhalfaday；thestreetsaresoontroddenblack，butthecountrykeepsitsvirginwhite；
andyouhaveonlytoliftyoureyesandlookovermilesofcountrysnow。Anindescribablecheerfulnessbreathesaboutthecity；andthewell-fedheartsitslightlyandbeatsgailyinthe-bosom。ItisNew-year’sweather。
New-year’sDay，thegreatnationalfestival，isatimeoffamilyexpansionsandofdeepcarousal。
Sometimes，byasorestokeoffateforthisCalvinisticpeople，theyear’sanniversaryfailsuponaSunday，whenthepublic-housesareinexorablyclosed，whensingingandevenwhistlingisbanishedfromourhomesandhighways，andtheoldesttoperfeelscalledupontogotochurch。
Thuspulledabout，asifbetweentwoloyalties，theScotchhavetodecidemanynicecasesofconscience，andridethemarchesnarrowlybetweentheweeklyandtheannualobservance。Apartyofconvivialmusicians，nextdoortoafriendofmine，hungsuspendedinthismanneronthebrinkoftheirdiversions。Fromteno’clockonSundaynight，myfriendheardthemtuningtheirinstruments：andasthehouroflibertydrewnear，eachmusthavehadhismusicopen，hisbowinreadinessacrossthefiddle，hisfootalreadyraisedtomarkthetime，andhisnervesbracedforexecution；forhardlyhadthetwelfthstroke。soundedfromtheearlieststeeple，beforetheyhadlauncedforthintoasecularbravura。
Currant-loafisnowpopulareatinginallhouse-
holds。Forweeksbeforethegreatmorning，confectionersdisplaystacksofScotchbun-adense，blacksubstance，inimicaltolife-andfullmoonsofshortbreadadornedwithmottoesofpeelorsugar-plum，inhonouroftheseasonandthefamilyaffections。’FraeAuldReekie，’’A
guidNewYeartoyea’，’’FortheAuldFolkatHame，’areamongthemostfavouredofthesedevices。Canyounotseethecarrier，afterhalf-a-day’sjourneyonpinchinghill-roads，drawupbeforeacottageinTeviotdale，orperhapsinManorGlenamongtherowans，andtheoldpeoplereceivingtheparcelwithmoisteyesandaprayerforJockorJeaninthecity？Foratthisseason，onthethresholdofanotheryearofcalamityandstubbornconflict，menfeelaneedtodrawcloserthelinksthatunitethem；theyreckonthenumberoftheirfriends，likealliesbeforeawar；andtheprayersgrowlongerinthemorningastheabsentarerecommendedbynameintoGod’skeeping。
Onthedayitself，theshopsareallshutasonaSunday；onlytaverns，toyshops，andotherholidaymagazines，keepopendoors。Everyonelooksforhishandsel。Thepostmanandthelamplightershaveleft，ateveryhouseintheirdistricts，acopyofvernacularverses，askingandthankinginabreath；anditischaracteristicofScotlandthattheseversesmayhavesometimesatouchofrealityindetailorsentimentandameasureofstrengthinthehandling。Alloverthetown，youmayseecomforter’dschoolboyshastingtosquandertheirhalf-crowns。Thereareaninfinityofvisitstobepaid；alltheworldisinthestreet，exceptthedaintierclasses；thesacramentalgreetingishearduponallsides；AuldLangSyneismuchinpeople’smouths；andwhiskyandshortbreadarestaplearticlesofconsumption。
Fromanearlyhourastrangerwillbeimpressedbythenumberofdrunkenmen；andbyafternoondrunkennesshasspreadtothewomen。Withsomeclassesofsociety，itisasmuchamatterofdutytodrinkhardonNew-year’sDayastogotochurchonSunday。Somehavebeensavingtheirwagesforperhapsamonthtodotheseasonhonour。
Manycarryawhisky-bottleintheirpocket，whichtheywillpresswithembarrassingeffusiononaperfectstranger。Itisinexpedienttoriskone’sbodyinacab，ornot，atleast，untilafteraprolongedstudyofthedriver。Thestreets，whicharethrongedfromendtoend，becomeaplacefordelicatepilotage。Singlyorarm-in-
arm，somespeechless，othersnoisyandquarrelsome，thevotariesoftheNewYeargomeanderinginandoutandcannoningoneagainstanother；andnowandagain，onefallsandliesashehasfallen。Beforenight，somanyhavegonetobedorthepoliceoffice，thatthestreetsseemalmostclearer。AndasGUISARDSandFIRST-FOOTERS
arenownotmuchseenexceptincountryplaces，whenoncetheNewYearhasbeenrunginandproclaimedattheTronrailings，thefestivitiesbegintofindtheirwayindoorsandsomethinglikequietreturnsuponthetown。Butthink，inthesepiledLANDS，ofallthesenselesssnorers，allthebrokenheadsandemptypockets！
Ofold，EdinburghUniversitywasthesceneofheroicsnowballing；andoneriotobtainedtheepichonoursofmilitaryintervention。Butthegreatgeneration，Iamafraid，isatanend；andevenduringmyowncollegedays，thespiritappreciablydeclined。Skatingandsliding，ontheotherhand，arehonouredmoreandmore；
andcurling，beingacreatureofthenationalgenius，islittlelikelytobedisregarded。ThepatriotismthatleadsamantoeatScotchbunwillscarcedeserthimatthecurling-pond。Edinburgh，withitslong，steeppavements，istheproperhomeofsliders；manyahappyurchincanslidethewholewaytoschool；andtheprofessionoferrand-boyistransformedintoaholidayamusement。Asforskating，thereisscarceanycitysohandsomelyprovided。DuddingstoneLochliesundertheabruptsouthernsideofArthur’sSeat；insummerashieldofblue，withswanssailingfromthereeds；inwinter，afieldofringingice。Thevillagechurchsitsaboveitonagreenpromontory；andthevillagesmokerisesfromamonggoodlytrees。Atthechurchgates，isthehistoricalJOUG；aplaceofpenancefortheneckofdetectedsinners，andthehistoricalLOUPING-ONSTANE，fromwhichDutch-builtlairdsandfarmersclimbedintothesaddle。HerePrinceCharliesleptbeforethebattleofPrestonpans；andhereDeaconBrodie，oroneofhisgang，stoleaploughcoulterbeforetheburglaryinChessel’sCourt。Ontheoppositesideoftheloch，thegroundrisestoCraigmillarCastle，aplacefriendlytoStuartMariolaters。Itisworthaclimb，eveninsummer，tolookdownuponthelochfromArthur’sSeat；butitistenfoldmoresoonadayofskating。Thesurfaceisthickwithpeoplemovingeasilyandswiftlyandleaningoveratathousandgracefulinclinations；thecrowdopensandcloses，andkeepsmovingthroughitselflikewater；
andtheiceringstohalfamileaway，withtheflyingsteel。Asnightdrawson，thesinglefiguresmeltintothedusk，untilonlyanobscurestir，andcomingandgoingofblackclusters，isvisibleupontheloch。A
littlelonger，andthefirsttorchiskindledandbeginstoflitrapidlyacrosstheiceinaringofyellowreflection，andthisisfollowedbyanotherandanother，untilthewholefieldisfullofskimminglights。
CHAPTERX。
TOTHEPENTLANDHILLS。
ONthreesidesofEdinburgh，thecountryslopesdownwardfromthecity，heretothesea，theretothefatfarmsofHaddington，theretothemineralfieldsofLinlithgow。Onthesouthalone，itkeepsrisinguntilitnotonlyout-topstheCastlebutlooksdownonArthur’sSeat。Thecharacteroftheneighbourhoodisprettystronglymarkedbyascarcityofhedges；bymanystonewallsofvaryingheight；byafairamountoftimber，someofitwellgrown，butapttobeofabushy，northernprofileandpoorinfoliage；byhereandtherealittleriver，EskorLeithorAlmond，busilyjourneyinginthebottomofitsglen；andfromalmosteverypoint，byapeepoftheseaorthehills。Thereisnolackofvariety，andyetmostoftheelementsarecommontoallparts；andthesoutherndistrictisalonedistinguishedbyconsiderablesummitsandawideview。
FromBoroughmuirhead，wheretheScottisharmyencampedbeforeFlodden，theroaddescendsalonghill，atthebottomofwhichandjustasitispreparingtomountupontheotherside，itpassesatoll-barandissuesatonceintotheopencountry。EvenasIwritethesewords，theyarebeingantiquatedintheprogressofevents，andthechiselsaretinklingonanewrowofhouses。Thebuildershaveatlengthadventuredbeyondthetollwhichheldtheminrespectsolong，andproceedtocareerinthesefreshpastureslikeaherdofcoltsturnedloose。AsLordBeaconsfieldproposedtohanganarchitectbywayofstimulation，aman，lookingonthesedoomedmeads，imaginesasimilarexampletodeterthebuilders；foritseemsasifitmustcometoanopenfightatlasttopreserveacornerofgreencountryunbedevilled。Andhere，appropriatelyenough，therestoodinolddaysacrow-hauntedgibbet，withtwobodieshangedinchains。Iusedtobeshown，whenachild，aflatstoneintheroadwaytowhichthegibbethadbeenfixed。Peopleofawillingfancywerepersuaded，andsoughttopersuadeothers，thatthisstonewasneverdry。
Andnowonder，theywouldadd，forthetwomenhadonlystolenfourpencebetweenthem。
Forabouttwomilestheroadclimbsupwards，alonghotwalkinsummertime。Youreachthesummitataplacewherefourwaysmeet，besidethetollofFairmilehead。
Thespotisbreezyandagreeablebothinnameandaspect。
Thehillsareclosebyacrossavalley：KirkYetton，withitslong，uprightscarsvisibleasfarasFife，andAllermuirthetallestonthissidewithwoodandtilledfieldrunninghighupontheirborders，andhaunchesallmouldedintoinnumerableglensandshelvingsandvariegatedwithheatherandfern。Theaircomesbrisklyandsweetlyoffthehills，purefromtheelevationandrusticallyscentedbytheuplandplants；andevenatthetoll，youmayhearthecurlewcallingonitsmate。Atcertainseasons，whenthegullsdeserttheirsurfyforelands，thebirdsofseaandmountainhuntandscreamtogetherinthesamefieldbyFairmilehead。Thewinged，wildthingsintermixtheirwheelings，thesea-birdsskimthetree-topsandfishamongthefurrowsoftheplough。
Theselittlecraftofairareathomeinalltheworld，solongastheycruiseintheirownelement；and，likesailors，askbutfoodandwaterfromtheshorestheycoast。
Below，overastream，theroadpassesBowBridge，nowadairy-farm，butonceadistilleryofwhisky。Itchanced，sometimeinthepastcentury，thatthedistillerwasontermsofgood-fellowshipwiththevisitingofficerofexcise。Thelatterwasofaneasy，friendlydisposition，andamasterofconvivialarts。
Nowandagain，hehadtowalkoutofEdinburghtomeasurethedistiller’sstock；andalthoughitwasagreeabletofindhisbusinessleadhiminafriend’sdirection，itwasunfortunatethatthefriendshouldbealoserbyhisvisits。Accordingly，whenhegotaboutthelevelofFairmilehead，thegaugerwouldtakehisflute，withoutwhichhenevertravelled，fromhispocket，fitittogether，andsetmanfullytoplaying，asifforhisowndelectationandinspiredbythebeautyofthescene。Hisfavouriteair，itseems，was’Overthehillsandfaraway。’Atthefirstnote，thedistillerprickedhisears。AfluteatFairmilehead？andplaying’Overthehillsandfaraway？’Thismustbehisfriendlyenemy，thegauger。Instantlyhorseswereharnessed，andsundrybarrelsofwhiskyweregotuponacart，drivenatagalloproundHillEnd，andburiedinthemossyglenbehindKirkYetton。Inthesamebreath，youmaybesure，afatfowlwasputtothefire，andthewhitestnaperypreparedforthebackparlour。Alittleafter，thegauger，havinghadhisfillofmusicforthemoment，camestrollingdownwiththemostinnocentairimaginable，andfoundthegoodpeopleatBowBridgetakenentirelyunawaresbyhisarrival，butnonethelessgladtoseehim。Thedistiller’sliquorandthegauger’sflutewouldcombinetospeedthemomentsofdigestion；andwhenbothweresomewhatmellow，theywouldwinduptheeveningwith’Overthehillsandfaraway’toanaccompanimentofknowingglances。Andatleast，thereisasmugglingstory，withoriginalandhalf-idyllicfeatures。
Alittlefurther，theroadtotherightpassesanuprightstoneinafield。ThecountrypeoplecallitGeneralKay’smonument。Accordingtothem，anofficerofthatnamehadperishedthereinbattleatsomeindistinctperiodbeforethebeginningofhistory。Thedateisreassuring；forIthinkcautiouswritersaresilentontheGeneral’sexploits。ButthestoneisconnectedwithoneofthoseremarkabletenuresoflandwhichlingeronintothemodernworldfromFeudalism。Wheneverthereigningsovereignpassesby，acertainlandedproprietorisheldboundtoclimbontothetop，trumpetinhand，andsoundaflourishaccordingtothemeasureofhisknowledgeinthatart。Happilyforarespectablefamily，crownedheadshavenogreatbusinessinthePentlandHills。Butthestorylendsacharacterofcomicalitytothestone；andthepasser-bywillsometimeschuckletohimself。
Thedistrictisdeartothesuperstitious。Hardby，attheback-gateofComiston，abelatedcarterbeheldaladyinwhite，’withthemostbeautiful，clearshoesuponherfeet，’wholookeduponhiminaveryghastlymannerandthenvanished；andjustinfrontistheHunters’
Tryst，oncearoadsideinn，andnotsolongagohauntedbythedevilinperson。Satanledtheinhabitantsapitifulexistence。Heshookthefourcornersofthebuildingwithlamentableoutcries，beatatthedoorsandwindows，overthrewcrockeryinthedeadhoursofthemorning，anddancedunholydancesontheroof。Everykindofspiritualdisinfectantwasputinrequisition；
chosenministersweresummonedoutofEdinburghandprayedbythehour；piousneighbourssatupallnightmakinganoiseofpsalmody；butSatanmindedthemnomorethanthewindaboutthehill-tops；anditwasonlyafteryearsofpersecution，thathelefttheHunters’Trystinpeacetooccupyhimselfwiththeremainderofmankind。
WhatwithGeneralKay，andthewhitelady，andthissingularvisitation，theneighbourhoodoffersgreatfacilitiestothemakersofsun-myths；andwithoutexactlycastinginone’slotwiththatdisenchantingschoolofwriters，onecannothelphearingagooddealofthewinterwindinthelaststory。’Thatnicht，’saysBurns，inoneofhishappiestmoments，-
’THATNICHTACHILDMIGHTUNDERSTAND
THEDEILHADBUSINESSONHISHAND。’
Andifpeoplesitupallnightinloneplacesonthehills，withBiblesandtremulouspsalms，theywillbeapttohearsomeofthemostfiendishnoisesintheworld；
thewindwillbeatondoorsanddanceuponroofsforthem，andmakethehillshowlaroundtheircottagewithaclamourlikethejudgment-day。
Theroadgoesdownthroughanothervalley，andthenfinallybeginstoscalethemainslopeofthePentlands。
Abouquetofoldtreesstandsroundawhitefarmhouse；
andfromaneighbouringdell，youcanseesmokerisingandleavesrufflinginthebreeze。Straightabove，thehillsclimbathousandfeetintotheair。Theneighbourhood，aboutthetimeoflambs，isclamorouswiththebleatingofflocks；andyouwillbeawakened，inthegreyofearlysummermornings，bythebarkingofadogorthevoiceofashepherdshoutingtotheechoes。This，withthehamletlyingbehindunseen，isSwanston。
Theplaceinthedellisimmediatelyconnectedwiththecity。Longago，thisshelteredfieldwaspurchasedbytheEdinburghmagistratesforthesakeofthespringsthatriseorgatherthere。Aftertheyhadbuilttheirwater-houseandlaidtheirpipes，itoccurredtothemthattheplacewassuitableforjunketing。Onceentertained，withjovialmagistratesandpublicfunds，theidealedspeedilytoaccomplishment；andEdinburghcouldsoonboastofamunicipalPleasureHouse。Thedellwasturnedintoagarden；andontheknollthatsheltersitfromtheplainandtheseawinds，theybuiltacottagelookingtothehills。TheybroughtcrocketsandgargoylesfromoldSt。Giles’swhichtheywerethenrestoring，anddisposedthemonthegablesandoverthedoorandaboutthegarden；andthequarrywhichhadsuppliedthemwithbuildingmaterial，theydrapedwithclematisandcarpetedwithbedsofroses。Somuchforthepleasureoftheeye；forcreaturecomfort，theymadeacapaciouscellarinthehillsideandfitteditwithbinsofthehewnstone。Inprocessoftime，thetreesgrewhigherandgaveshadetothecottage，andtheevergreenssprangupandturnedthedellintoathicket。
There，purplemagistratesrelaxedthemselvesfromthepursuitofmunicipalambition；cockedhatsparadedsoberlyaboutthegardenandinandoutamongthehollies；authoritativecanesdrewcipheringuponthepath；andatnight，fromhighuponthehills，ashepherdsawlightedwindowsthroughthefoliageandheardthevoiceofcitydignitariesraisedinsong。
Thefarmisolder。ItwasfirstagrangeofWhitekirkAbbey，tilledandinhabitedbyrosyfriars。
Thence，aftertheReformation，itpassedintothehandsofatrue-blueProtestantfamily。Duringthecovenantingtroubles，whenanightconventiclewashelduponthePentlands，thefarmdoorsstoodhospitablyopentillthemorning；thedresserwasladenwithcheeseandbannocks，milkandbrandy；andtheworshipperskeptslippingdownfromthehillbetweentwoexercises，ascouplesvisitthesupper-roombetweentwodancesofamodernball。IntheForty-Five，someforagingHighlandersfromPrinceCharlie’sarmyfelluponSwanstoninthedawn。Thegreat-grandfatherofthelatefarmerwasthenalittlechild；himtheyawakenedbypluckingtheblanketsfromhisbed，andheremembered，whenhewasanoldman，theirtruculentlooksanduncouthspeech。Thechurnstoodfullofcreaminthedairy，andwiththistheymadetheirbroseinhighdelight。’Itwasbrawbrose，’saidoneofthem。Atlasttheymadeoff，ladenlikecamelswiththeirbooty；andSwanstonFarmhaslainoutofthewayofhistoryfromthattimeforward。Idonotknowwhatmaybeyetinstoreforit。Ondarkdays，whenthemistrunslowuponthehill，thehousehasagloomyairasifsuitableforprivatetragedy。ButinhotJuly，youcanfancynothingmoreperfectthanthegarden，laidoutinalleysandarboursandbright，old-fashionedflower-
plots，andendinginaminiatureravine，alltrellis-workandmossandtinklingwaterfall，andhousedfromthesununderfathomsofbroadfoliage。
Thehamletbehindisoneoftheleastconsiderableofhamlets，andconsistsofafewcottagesonagreenbesideaburn。Someofthem（astrangethinginScotland）aremodelsofinternalneatness；thebedsadornedwithpatchwork，theshelvesarrayedwithwillow-
patternplates，thefloorsandtablesbrightwithscrubbingorpipe-clay，andtheverykettlepolishedlikesilver。Itisthesignofacontentedoldageincountryplaces，wherethereislittlematterforgossipandnostreetsights。Houseworkbecomesanart；andatevening，whenthecottageinteriorshinesandtwinklesintheglowofthefire，thehousewifefoldsherhandsandcontemplatesherfinishedpicture；thesnowandthewindmaydotheirworst，shehasmadeherselfapleasantcornerintheworld。Thecitymightbeathousandmilesaway，andyetitwasfromclosebythatMr。BoughpaintedthedistantviewofEdinburghwhichhasbeenengravedforthiscollection；andyouhaveonlytolookattheetching，*toseehownearitisathand。Buthillsandhillpeoplearenoteasilysophisticated；andifyouwalkouthereonasummerSunday，itisaslikeasnottheshepherdmaysethisdogsuponyou。Butkeepanunmovedcountenance；theylookformidableatthecharge，buttheirheartsareintherightplace，andtheywillonlybarkandsprawlaboutyouonthegrass，unmindfuloftheirmaster’sexcitations。
*OneoftheillustrationsoftheFirstEdition。
KirkYettonformsthenorth-easternangleoftherange；thence，thePentlandstrendofftosouthandwest。
Fromthesummityoulookoveragreatexpanseofchampaignslopingtothesea，andbeholdalargevarietyofdistanthills。TherearethehillsofFife，thehillsofPeebles，theLammermoorsandtheOchils，moreorlessmountainousinoutline，moreorlessbluewithdistance。
OfthePentlandsthemselves，youseeafieldofwildheatherypeakswithapondgleaminginthemidst；andtothatsidetheviewisasdesolateasifyouwerelookingintoGallowayorApplecross。Toturntotheotherislikeapieceoftravel。FaroutinthelowlandsEdinburghshowsherself，makingagreatsmokeoncleardaysandspreadinghersuburbsaboutherformiles；theCastlerisesdarklyinthemidst，andcloseby，Arthur’sSeatmakesaboldfigureinthelandscape。Allaround，cultivatedfields，andwoods，andsmokingvillages，andwhitecountryroads，diversifytheunevensurfaceoftheland。Trainscrawlslowlyabroadupontherailwaylines；
littleshipsaretackingintheFirth；theshadowofamountainouscloud，aslargeasaparish，travelsbeforethewind；thewinditselfrufflesthewoodandstandingcorn，andsendspulsesofvaryingcolouracrossthelandscape。Soyousit，likeJupiteruponOlympus，andlookdownfromafaruponmen’slife。Thecityisassilentasacityofthedead：fromallitshummingthoroughfares，notavoice，notafootfall，reachesyouuponthehill。Thesea-surf，thecriesofploughmen，thestreamsandthemill-wheels，thebirdsandthewind，keepupananimatedconcertthroughtheplain；fromfarmtofarm，dogsandcrowingcockscontendtogetherindefiance；andyetfromthisOlympianstation，exceptforthewhisperingrumourofatrain，theworldhasfallenintoadeadsilence，andthebusinessoftownandcountrygrownvoicelessinyourears。Acryinghill-bird，thebleatofasheep，awindsinginginthedrygrass，seemnotsomuchtointerrupt，astoaccompany，thestillness；
buttothespiritualear，thewholescenemakesamusicatoncehumanandrural，anddiscoursespleasantreflectionsonthedestinyofman。Thespiryhabitablecity，ships，thedividedfields，andbrowsingherds，andthestraighthighways，tellvisiblyofman’sactiveandcomfortableways；andyoumaybeneversolaggardandneversounimpressionable，butthereissomethingintheviewthatspiritsupyourbloodandputsyouintheveinforcheerfullabour。
ImmediatelybelowisFairmilehead，aspotofroofandasmokingchimney，wheretworoads，nothickerthanpackthread，intersectbesideahangingwood。Ifyouarefanciful，youwillberemindedofthegaugerinthestory。Andthethoughtofthisoldexciseman，whooncelippedandfingeredonhispipeandutteredclearnotesfromitinthemountainair，andthewordsofthesongheaffected，carryyourmind’Overthehillsandfaraway’
todistantcountries；andyouhaveavisionofEdinburghnot，asyouseeher，inthemidstofalittleneighbourhood，butasabossupontheroundworldwithallEuropeandthedeepseaforhersurroundings。Foreveryplaceisacentretotheearth，whencehighwaysradiateorshipssetsailforforeignports；thelimitofaparishisnotmoreimaginarythanthefrontierofanempire；andasamansittingathomeinhiscabinetandswiftlywritingbooks，soacitysendsabroadaninfluenceandaportraitofherself。ThereisnoEdinburghemigrant，farornear，fromChinatoPeru，butheorshecarriessomelivelypicturesofthemind，somesunsetbehindtheCastlecliffs，somesnowscene，somemazeofcitylamps，indelibleinthememoryanddelightfultostudyintheintervalsoftoil。Foranysuch，ifthisbookfallintheirway，hereareafewmorehomepictures。Itwouldbepleasant，iftheyshouldrecogniseahousewheretheyhaddwelt，orawalkthattheyhadtaken。