Butthisistheage，inwhichthosewhocouldnotread，havebeensupposedtowrite；inwhichthegiantsofantiquatedromancehavebeenexhibitedasrealities。IfweknowlittleoftheancientHighlanders，letusnotfillthevacuitywithOssian。IfwehadnotsearchedtheMagellanickregions，letushoweverforbeartopeoplethemwithPatagons。
HavingwaitedsomedaysatArmidel，wewereflatteredatlastwithawindthatpromisedtoconveyustoMull。Wewentonboardaboatthatwastakinginkelp，andlefttheIsleofSkybehindus。Weweredoomedtoexperience，likeothers，thedangeroftrustingtothewind，whichblewagainstus，inashorttime，withsuchviolence，thatwe，beingnoseasonedsailors，werewillingtocallitatempest。Iwassea-sickandlaydown。Mr。Boswellkeptthedeck。Themasterknewnotwellwhithertogo；andourdifficultiesmightperhapshavefilledaverypathetickpage，hadnotMr。
MacleanofCol，who，witheveryotherqualificationwhichinsularliferequires，isaveryactiveandskilfulmariner，pilotedussafeintohisownharbour。
COL
InthemorningwefoundourselvesundertheIsleofCol，wherewelanded；andpassedthefirstdayandnightwithCaptainMaclean，agentlemanwhohaslivedsometimeintheEastIndies；buthavingdethronednoNabob，isnottoorichtosettleinowncountry。
Nextdaythewindwasfair，andwemighthavehadaneasypassagetoMull；buthaving，contrarilytoourownintention，landeduponanewIsland，wewouldnotleaveitwhollyunexamined。Wethereforesufferedthevesseltodepartwithoutus，andtrustedtheskiesforanotherwind。
Mr。MacleanofCol，havingaverynumerousfamily，has，forsometimepast，residedatAberdeen，thathemaysuperintendtheireducation，andleavestheyounggentleman，ourfriend，togovernhisdominions，withthefullpowerofaHighlandChief。BytheabsenceoftheLaird\'sfamily，ourentertainmentwasmademoredifficult，becausethehousewasinagreatdegreedisfurnished；
butyoungCol\'skindnessandactivitysuppliedalldefects，andprocuredusmorethansufficientaccommodation。
HereIfirstmountedalittleHighlandsteed；andiftherehadbeenmanyspectators，shouldhavebeensomewhatashamedofmyfigureinthemarch。ThehorsesoftheIslands，asofotherbarrencountries，areverylow:theyareindeedmusculousandstrong，beyondwhattheirsizegivesreasonforexpecting；butabulkymanupononeoftheirbacksmakesaverydisproportionateappearance。
FromthehabitationofCaptainMaclean，wewenttoGrissipol，butcalledbythewayonMr。HectorMaclean，theMinisterofCol，whomwefoundinahut，thatis，ahouseofonlyonefloor，butwithwindowsandchimney，andnotinelegantlyfurnished。Mr。Macleanhasthereputationofgreatlearning:heisseventy-sevenyearsold，butnotinfirm，withalookofvenerabledignity，excellingwhatIrememberinanyotherman。
Hisconversationwasnotunsuitabletohisappearance。Ilostsomeofhisgood-will，bytreatingahereticalwriterwithmoreregardthan，inhisopinion，aheretickcoulddeserve。Ihonouredhisorthodoxy，anddidnotmuchcensurehisasperity。Amanwhohassettledhisopinions，doesnotlovetohavethetranquillityofhisconvictiondisturbed；andatseventy-sevenitistimetobeinearnest。
MentionwasmadeoftheEarsetranslationoftheNewTestament，whichhasbeenlatelypublished，andofwhichthelearnedMr。
MacqueenofSkyspokewithcommendation；butMr。Macleansaidhedidnotuseit，becausehecouldmakethetextmoreintelligibletohisauditorsbyanextemporaryversion。FromthisIinferred，thatthelanguageofthetranslationwasnotthelanguageoftheIsleofCol。
Hehasnopublickedificefortheexerciseofhisministry；andcanofficiatetonogreaternumber，thanaroomcancontain；andtheroomofahutisnotverylarge。ThisisalltheopportunityofworshipthatisnowgrantedtotheinhabitantsoftheIsland，someofwhommusttravelthitherperhapstenmiles。Twochapelswereerectedbytheirancestors，ofwhichIsawtheskeletons，whichnowstandfaithfulwitnessesofthetriumphoftheReformation。
Thewantofchurchesisnottheonlyimpedimenttopiety:thereislikewiseawantofMinisters。AparishoftencontainsmoreIslandsthanone；andeachIslandcanhavetheMinisteronlyinitsownturn。AtRaasatheyhad，Ithink，arighttoserviceonlyeverythirdSunday。Alltheprovisionmadebythepresentecclesiasticalconstitution，fortheinhabitantsofaboutahundredsquaremiles，isaprayerandsermoninalittleroom，onceinthreeweeks:andeventhisparsimoniousdistributionisatthemercyoftheweather；
andinthoseIslandswheretheMinisterdoesnotreside，itisimpossibletotellhowmanyweeksormonthsmaypasswithoutanypublickexerciseofreligion。
GRISSIPOLINCOL
AfterashortconversationwithMr。Maclean，wewentontoGrissipol，ahouseandfarmtenantedbyMr。Macsweyn，whereIsawmoreoftheancientlifeofaHighlander，thanIhadyetfound。
Mrs。MacsweyncouldspeaknoEnglish，andhadneverseenanyotherplacesthantheIslandsofSky，Mull，andCol:butshewashospitableandgood-humoured，andspreadhertablewithsufficientliberality。Wefoundteahere，asineveryotherplace，butourspoonswereofhorn。
ThehouseofGrissipolstandsbyabrookveryclearandquick；
whichis，Isuppose，oneofthemostcopiousstreamsintheIsland。
Thisplacewasthesceneofanaction，muchcelebratedinthetraditionalhistoryofCol，butwhichprobablynotworelaterswilltellalike。
Sometime，intheobscureages，MacneilofBarramarriedtheLadyMaclean，whohadtheIsleofColforherjointure。WhetherMacneildetainedCol，whenthewidowwasdead，orwhethershelivedsolongastomakeherheirsimpatient，isperhapsnotnowknown。Theyoungerson，calledJohnGerves，orJohntheGiant，amanofgreatstrengthwhowastheninIreland，eitherforsafety，orforeducation，dreamedofrecoveringhisinheritance；andgettingsomeadventurerstogether，which，inthoseunsettledtimes，wasnothardtodo，invadedCol。Hewasdrivenaway，butwasnotdiscouraged，andcollectingnewfollowers，inthreeyearscameagainwithfiftymen。InhiswayhestoppedatArtorinishinMorvern，wherehisunclewasprisonertoMacleod，andwasthenwithhisenemiesinatent。Macleantookwithhimonlyoneservant，whomheorderedtostayattheoutside；andwhereheshouldseethetentpressedoutwards，tostrikewithhisdirk，itbeingtheintentionofMaclean，asanymanprovokedhim，tolayhandsuponhim，andpushhimback。Heenteredthetentalone，withhisLochabar-axeinhishand，andstrucksuchterrorintothewholeassembly，thattheydismissedhisuncle。
WhenhelandedatCol，hesawthesentinel，whokeptwatchtowardsthesea，runningofftoGrissipol，togiveMacneil，whowastherewithahundredandtwentymen，anaccountoftheinvasion。HetoldMacgill，oneofhisfollowers，thatifheinterceptedthatdangerousintelligence，bycatchingthecourier，hewouldgivehimcertainlandsinMull。Uponthispromise，Macgillpursuedthemessenger，andeitherkilled，orstoppedhim；andhisposterity，tillverylately，heldthelandsinMull。
Thealarmbeingthusprevented，hecameunexpectedlyuponMacneil。
Chiefswereinthosedaysneverwhollyunprovidedforanenemy。A
fightensued，inwhichoneoftheirfollowersissaidtohavegivenanextraordinaryproofofactivity，byboundingbackwardsoverthebrookofGrissipol。Macneilbeingkilled，andmanyofhisclandestroyed，MacleantookpossessionoftheIsland，whichtheMacneilsattemptedtoconquerbyanotherinvasion，butweredefeatedandrepulsed。
Maclean，inhisturn，invadedtheestateoftheMacneils，tookthecastleofBrecacig，andconqueredtheIsleofBarra，whichheheldforsevenyears，andthenrestoredittotheheirs。
CASTLEOFCOL
FromGrissipol，Mr。Macleanconductedustohisfather\'sseat；aneatnewhouse，erectedneartheoldcastle，Ithink，bythelastproprietor。Herewewereallowedtotakeourstation，andlivedverycommodiously，whilewewaitedformoderateweatherandafairwind，whichwedidnotsosoonobtain，butwehadtimetogetsomeinformationofthepresentstateofCol，partlybyinquiry，andpartlybyoccasionalexcursions。
Coliscomputedtobethirteenmilesinlength，andthreeinbreadth。BoththeendsarethepropertyoftheDukeofArgyle，butthemiddlebelongstoMaclean，whoiscalledCol，astheonlyLaird。
Colisnotproperlyrocky；itisratheronecontinuedrock，ofasurfacemuchdiversifiedwithprotuberances，andcoveredwithathinlayerofearth，whichisoftenbroken，anddiscoversthestone。Suchasoilisnotforplantsthatstrikedeeproots；andperhapsinthewholeIslandnothinghaseveryetgrowntotheheightofatable。Theuncultivatedpartsareclothedwithheath，amongwhichindustryhasinterspersedspotsofgrassandcorn；butnoattempthasyetbeenmadetoraiseatree。YoungCol，whohasaverylaudabledesireofimprovinghispatrimony，purposessometimetoplantanorchard；which，ifitbeshelteredbyawall，mayperhapssucceed。Hehasintroducedthecultureofturnips，ofwhichhehasafield，wherethewholeworkwasperformedbyhisownhand。Hisintentionistoprovidefoodforhiscattleinthewinter。ThisinnovationwasconsideredbyMr。Macsweynastheidleprojectofayounghead，heatedwithEnglishfancies；buthehasnowfoundthatturnipswillreallygrow，andthathungrysheepandcowswillreallyeatthem。
Bysuchacquisitionsasthese，theHebridesmayintimeriseabovetheirannualdistress。Whereverheathwillgrow，thereisreasontothinksomethingbettermaydrawnourishment；andbytryingtheproductionofotherplaces，plantswillbefoundsuitabletoeverysoil。
Colhasmanylochs，someofwhichhavetroutsandeels，andothershaveneveryetbeenstocked；anotherproofofthenegligenceoftheIslanders，whomighttakefishintheinlandwaters，whentheycannotgotosea。
Theirquadrupedsarehorses，cows，sheep，andgoats。Theyhaveneitherdeer，hares，norrabbits。Theyhavenovermin，exceptrats，whichhavebeenlatelybroughtthitherbysea，astootherplaces；andarefreefromserpents，frogs，andtoads。
TheharvestinCol，andinLewis，isripesoonerthaninSky；andthewinterinColisnevercold，butverytempestuous。IknownotthatIeverheardthewindsoloudinanyotherplace；andMr。
Boswellobserved，thatitsnoisewasallitsown，fortherewerenotreestoincreaseit。
Noiseisnottheworsteffectofthetempests；fortheyhavethrownthesandfromtheshoreoveraconsiderablepartoftheland；anditissaidstilltoencroachanddestroymoreandmorepasture；butIamnotofopinion，thatbyanysurveysorlandmarks，itslimitshavebeeneverfixed，oritsprogressionascertained。Ifonemanhasconfidenceenoughtosay，thatitadvances，nobodycanbringanyprooftosupporthimindenyingit。Thereasonwhyitisnotspreadtoagreaterextent，seemstobe，thatthewindandraincomealmosttogether，andthatitismadecloseandheavybythewetbeforethestormscanputitinmotion。Sothickisthebed，andsosmalltheparticles，thatifatravellershouldbecaughtbyasuddengustindryweather，hewouldfinditverydifficulttoescapewithlife。
Fornaturalcuriosities，Iwasshownonlytwogreatmassesofstone，whichlielooseupontheground；oneonthetopofahill，andtheotheratasmalldistancefromthebottom。Theycertainlywereneverputintotheirpresentplacesbyhumanstrengthorskill；andthoughanearthquakemighthavebrokenoffthelowerstone，androlleditintothevalley，noaccountcanbegivenoftheother，whichliesonthehill，unless，whichIforgottoexamine，therebestillnearitsomehigherrock，fromwhichitmightbetorn。Allnationshaveatradition，thattheirearliestancestorsweregiants，andthesestonesaresaidtohavebeenthrownupanddownbyagiantandhismistress。Therearesomanymoreimportantthings，ofwhichhumanknowledgecangivenoaccount，thatitmaybeforgivenus，ifwespeculatenolongerontwostonesinCol。
ThisIslandisverypopulous。Aboutnine-and-twentyyearsago，thefenciblemenofColwerereckonedonehundredandforty，whichisthesixthofeighthundredandforty；andprobablysomecontrivedtobeleftoutofthelist。TheMinistertoldus，thatafewyearsagotheinhabitantswereeighthundred，betweentheagesofsevenandofseventy。Roundnumbersareseldomexact。Butinthiscasetheauthorityisgood，andtheerrourlikelytobelittle。Iftotheeighthundredbeaddedwhatthelawsofcomputationrequire，theywillbeincreasedtoatleastathousand；andifthedimensionsofthecountryhavebeenaccuratelyrelated，everymilemaintainsmorethantwenty-five。
Thisproportionofhabitationisgreaterthantheappearanceofthecountryseemstoadmit；forwherevertheeyewanders，itseesmuchwasteandlittlecultivation。Iammoreinclinedtoextendtheland，ofwhichnomeasurehaseverbeentaken，thantodiminishthepeople，whohavebeenreallynumbered。Letitbesupposed，thatacomputedmilecontainsamileandahalf，aswascommonlyfoundtrueinthemensurationoftheEnglishroads，andweshallthenallotnearlytwelvetoamile，whichagreesmuchbetterwithocularobservation。
Here，asinSky，andotherIslands，aretheLaird，theTacksmen，andtheundertenants。
Mr。Maclean，theLaird，hasveryextensivepossessions，beingproprietor，notonlyoffarthegreaterpartofCol，butoftheextensiveIslandofRum，andaveryconsiderableterritoryinMull。
RumisoneofthelargerIslands，almostsquare，andthereforeofgreatcapacityinproportiontoitssides。Bytheusualmethodofestimatingcomputedextent，itmaycontainmorethanahundredandtwentysquaremiles。
ItoriginallybelongedtoClanronald，andwaspurchasedbyCol；
who，insomedisputeaboutthebargain，madeClanronaldprisoner，andkepthimninemonthsinconfinement。Itsownerrepresentsitasmountainous，rugged，andbarren。Inthehillstherearereddeer。Thehorsesareverysmall，butofabreedeminentforbeauty。Col，notlongago，boughtoneofthemfromatenant；whotoldhim，thatashewasofashapeuncommonlyelegant，hecouldnotsellhimbutatahighprice；andthatwhoeverhadhimshouldpayaguineaandahalf。
TherearesaidtobeinBarraaraceofhorsesyetsmaller，ofwhichthehighestisnotabovethirty-sixinches。
TherentofRumisnotgreat。Mr。Macleandeclared，thatheshouldbeveryrich，ifhecouldsethislandattwo-pencehalfpennyanacre。Theinhabitantsarefifty-eightfamilies，whocontinuedPapistsforsometimeaftertheLairdbecameaProtestant。TheiradherencetotheiroldreligionwasstrengthenedbythecountenanceoftheLaird\'ssister，azealousRomanist，tilloneSunday，astheyweregoingtomassundertheconductoftheirpatroness，Macleanmetthemontheway，gaveoneofthemablowontheheadwithayellowstick，Isupposeacane，forwhichtheEarsehadnoname，anddrovethemtothekirk，fromwhichtheyhaveneversincedeparted。Sincetheuseofthismethodofconversion，theinhabitantsofEggandCanna，whocontinuePapists，calltheProtestantismofRum，thereligionoftheYellowStick。
TheonlyPopishIslandsareEggandCanna。EggistheprincipalIslandofaparish，inwhich，thoughhehasnocongregation，theProtestantMinisterresides。Ihaveheardofnothingcuriousinit，butthecaveinwhichaformergenerationoftheIslandersweresmotheredbyMacleod。
Ifwehadtravelledwithmoreleisure，ithadnotbeenfittohaveneglectedthePopishIslands。Poperyisfavourabletoceremony；
andamongignorantnations，ceremonyistheonlypreservativeoftradition。SinceprotestantismwasextendedtothesavagepartsofScotland，ithasperhapsbeenoneofthechieflaboursoftheMinisterstoabolishstatedobservances，becausetheycontinuedtheremembranceoftheformerreligion。Wethereforewhocametohearoldtraditions，andseeantiquatedmanners，shouldprobablyhavefoundthemamongstthePapists。
Canna，theotherPopishIsland，belongstoClanronald。Itissaidnottocomprisemorethantwelvemilesofland，andyetmaintainsasmanyinhabitantsasRum。
WewereatColundertheprotectionoftheyoungLaird，withoutanyofthedistresses，whichMr。Pennant，inafitofsimplecredulity，seemstothinkalmostworthyofanelegybyOssian。Whereverweroved，wewerepleasedtoseethereverencewithwhichhissubjectsregardedhim。Hedidnotendeavourtodazzlethembyanymagnificenceofdress:hisonlydistinctionwasafeatherinhisbonnet；butassoonasheappeared，theyforsooktheirworkandclusteredabouthim:hetookthembythehand，andtheyseemedmutuallydelighted。HehastheproperdispositionofaChieftain，andseemsdesiroustocontinuethecustomsofhishouse。Thebagpiperplayedregularly，whendinnerwasserved，whosepersonanddressmadeagoodappearance；andhebroughtnodisgraceuponthefamilyofRankin，whichhaslongsuppliedtheLairdsofColwithhereditarymusick。
TheTacksmenofColseemtolivewithlessdignityandconveniencethanthoseofSky；wheretheyhadgoodhouses，andtablesnotonlyplentiful，butdelicate。InColonlytwohousespaythewindowtax；foronlytwohavesixwindows，which，Isuppose，aretheLaird\'sandMr。Macsweyn\'s。
Therentshave，tillwithinsevenyears，beenpaidinkind，butthetenantsfindingthatcattleandcornvariedintheirprice，desiredforthefuturetogivetheirlandlordmoney；which，nothavingyetarrivedatthephilosophyofcommerce，theyconsiderasbeingeveryyearofthesamevalue。
Weweretoldofaparticularmodeofunder-tenure。TheTacksmanadmitssomeofhisinferiorneighbourstothecultivationofhisgrounds，onconditionthatperformingallthework，andgivingathirdpartoftheseed，theyshallkeepacertainnumberofcows，sheep，andgoats，andreapathirdpartoftheharvest。Thusbylessthanthetillageoftwoacrestheypaytherentofone。
TherearetenantsbelowtherankofTacksmen，thathavegotsmallertenantsunderthem；forineveryplace，wheremoneyisnotthegeneralequivalent，theremustbesomewhoselabourisimmediatelypaidbydailyfood。
Acountrythathasnomoney，isbynomeansconvenientforbeggars，bothbecausesuchcountriesarecommonlypoor，andbecausecharityrequiressometroubleandsomethought。Apennyiseasilygivenuponthefirstimpulseofcompassion，orimpatienceofimportunity；
butfewwilldeliberatelysearchtheircupboardsortheirgranariestofindoutsomethingtogive。Apennyislikewiseeasilyspent，butvictuals，iftheyareunprepared，requirehouseroom，andfire，andutensils，whichthebeggarknowsnotwheretofind。
Yetbeggarstheresometimesare，whowanderfromIslandtoIsland。
Wehad，inourpassagetoMull，thecompanyofawomanandherchild，whohadexhaustedthecharityofCol。ThearrivalofabeggaronanIslandisaccountedasinistrousevent。Everybodyconsidersthatheshallhavethelessforwhathegivesaway。
Theiralms，Ibelieve，isgenerallyoatmeal。
NeartoColisanotherIslandcalledTireye，eminentforitsfertility。ThoughithasbuthalftheextentofRum，itissowellpeopled，thattherehaveappeared，notlongago，ninehundredandfourteenatafuneral。TheplentyofthisIslandenticedbeggarstoit，whoseemedsoburdensometotheinhabitants，thataformalcompactwasdrawnup，bywhichtheyobligedthemselvestograntnomorerelieftocasualwanderers，becausetheyhadamongthemanindigentwomanofhighbirth，whomtheyconsideredasentitledtoallthattheycouldspare。Ihavereadthestipulation，whichwasinditedwithjuridicalformality，butwasnevermadevalidbyregularsubscription。
IftheinhabitantsofColhavenothingtogive，itisnotthattheyareoppressedbytheirlandlord:theirleasesseemtobeveryprofitable。Onefarmer，whopaysonlysevenpoundsayear，hasmaintainedsevendaughtersandthreesons，ofwhomtheeldestiseducatedatAberdeenfortheministry；andnow，ateveryvacation，opensaschoolinCol。
Lifeishere，insomerespects，improvedbeyondtheconditionofsomeotherIslands。InSkywhatiswantedcanonlybebought，asthearrivalofsomewanderingpedlarmayaffordanopportunity；butinColthereisastandingshop，andinMulltherearetwo。AshopintheIslands，asinotherplacesoflittlefrequentation，isarepositoryofeverythingrequisiteforcommonuse。Mr。Boswell\'sjournalwasfilled，andheboughtsomepaperinCol。ToamanthatrangesthestreetsofLondon，whereheistemptedtocontrivewants，forthepleasureofsupplyingthem，ashopaffordsnoimageworthyofattention；butinanIsland，itturnsthebalanceofexistencebetweengoodandevil。Toliveinperpetualwantoflittlethings，isastatenotindeedoftorture，butofconstantvexation。IhaveinSkyhadsomedifficultytofindinkforaletter；andifawomanbreaksherneedle，theworkisatastop。
Asitis，theIslandersareobligedtocontentthemselveswithsuccedaneousmeansformanycommonpurposes。Ihaveseenthechiefmanofaverywidedistrictridingwithahalterforabridle，andgoverninghishobbywithawoodencurb。
ThepeopleofCol，however，donotwantdexteritytosupplysomeoftheirnecessities。Severalartswhichmaketrades，anddemandapprenticeshipsingreatcities，areherethepracticesofdailyeconomy。Ineveryhousecandlesaremade，bothmouldedanddipped。
Theirwicksaresmallshredsoflinencloth。TheyallknowhowtoextractfromtheCuddy，oilfortheirlamps。Theyalltanskins，andmakebrogues。
AswetravelledthroughSky，wesawmanycottages，buttheyveryfrequentlystoodsingleonthenakedground。InCol，wherethehillsopenedaplaceconvenientforhabitation，wefoundapettyvillage，ofwhicheveryhuthadalittlegardenadjoining；thustheymadeanappearanceofsocialcommerceandmutualoffices，andofsomeattentiontoconvenienceandfuturesupply。ThereisnotintheWesternIslandsanycollectionofbuildingsthatcanmakepretensionstobecalledatown，exceptintheIsleofLewis，whichIhavenotseen。
IfLewisisdistinguishedbyatown，Colhasalsosomethingpeculiar。TheyoungLairdhasattemptedwhatnoIslanderperhapseverthoughton。Hehasbegunaroadcapableofawheel-carriage。
Hehascarrieditaboutamile，andwillcontinueitbyannualelongationfromhishousetotheharbour。
Oftaxeshereisnoreasonforcomplaining；theyarepaidbyaveryeasycomposition。Themalt-taxforColistwentyshillings。
Whiskyisveryplentiful:thereareseveralstillsintheIsland，andmoreismadethantheinhabitantsconsume。
Thegreatbusinessofinsularpolicyisnowtokeepthepeopleintheirowncountry。Astheworldhasbeenletinuponthem，theyhaveheardofhappierclimates，andlessarbitrarygovernment；andiftheyaredisgusted，haveemissariesamongthemreadytoofferthemlandandhouses，asarewardfordesertingtheirChiefandclan。ManyhavedepartedbothfromthemainofScotland，andfromtheIslands；andallthatgomaybeconsideredassubjectslosttotheBritishcrown；foranationscatteredintheboundlessregionsofAmericaresemblesraysdivergingfromafocus。Alltheraysremain，buttheheatisgone。Theirpowerconsistedintheirconcentration:whentheyaredispersed，theyhavenoeffect。
Itmaybethoughtthattheyarehappierbythechange；buttheyarenothappyasanation，fortheyareanationnolonger。Astheycontributenottotheprosperityofanycommunity，theymustwantthatsecurity，thatdignity，thathappiness，whateveritbe，whichaprosperouscommunitythrowsbackuponindividuals。
TheinhabitantsofColhavenotyetlearnedtobewearyoftheirheathandrocks，butattendtheiragricultureandtheirdairies，withoutlisteningtoAmericanseducements。
Therearesomehoweverwhothinkthatthisemigrationhasraisedterrourdisproportionatetoitsrealevil；andthatitisonlyanewmodeofdoingwhatwasalwaysdone。TheHighlands，theysay，nevermaintainedtheirnaturalinhabitants；butthepeople，whentheyfoundthemselvestoonumerous，insteadofextendingcultivation，providedforthemselvesbyamorecompendiousmethod，andsoughtbetterfortuneinothercountries。Theydidnotindeedgoawayincollectivebodies，butwithdrewinvisibly，afewatatime；butthewholenumberoffugitiveswasnotless，andthedifferencebetweenothertimesandthis，isonlythesameasbetweenevaporationandeffusion。
Thisisplausible，butIamafraiditisnottrue。Thosewhowentbefore，iftheywerenotsensiblymissed，astheargumentsupposes，musthavegoneeitherinlessnumber，orinamannerlessdetrimental，thanatpresent；becauseformerlytherewasnocomplaint。Thosewhothenleftthecountryweregenerallytheidledependantsonoverburdenedfamilies，ormenwhohadnoproperty；
andthereforecarriedawayonlythemselves。Inthepresenteagernessofemigration，families，andalmostcommunities，goawaytogether。Thosewhowereconsideredasprosperousandwealthyselltheirstockandcarryawaythemoney。Oncenonewentawaybuttheuselessandpoor；insomepartsthereisnowreasontofear，thatnonewillstaybutthosewhoaretoopoortoremovethemselves，andtoouselesstoberemovedatthecostofothers。
OfantiquitythereisnotmoreknowledgeinColthaninotherplaces；buteverywheresomethingmaybegleaned。
Howladieswereportioned，whentherewasnomoney，itwouldbedifficultforanEnglishmantoguess。In1649，MacleanofDronartinMullmarriedhissisterFingalatoMacleanofColl，withahundredandeightykine；andstipulated，thatifshebecameawidow，herjointureshouldbethreehundredandsixty。Isupposesomeproportionatetractoflandwasappropriatedtotheirpasturage。
Thedispositiontopompousandexpensivefunerals，whichhasatonetimeorotherprevailedinmostpartsofthecivilizedworld，isnotyetsuppressedintheIslands，thoughsomeoftheancientsolemnitiesarewornaway，andsingersarenolongerhiredtoattendtheprocession。Nineteenyearsago，attheburialoftheLairdofCol，werekilledthirtycows，andaboutfiftysheep。Thenumberofthecowsispositivelytold，andwemustsupposeothervictualsinlikeproportion。
Mr。Macleaninformedusofanoddgame，ofwhichhedidnottelltheoriginal，butwhichmayperhapsbeusedinotherplaces，wherethereasonofitisnotyetforgot。AtNew-year\'seve，inthehallorcastleoftheLaird，where，atfestalseasons，theremaybesupposedaverynumerouscompany，onemandresseshimselfinacow\'shide，uponwhichothermenbeatwithsticks。Herunswithallthisnoiseroundthehouse，whichallthecompanyquitsinacounterfeitedfright:thedooristhenshut。AtNew-year\'sevethereisnogreatpleasuretobehadoutofdoorsintheHebrides。
Theyaresuresoontorecoverfromtheirterrourenoughtosolicitforre-admission；which，forthehonourofpoetry，isnottobeobtainedbutbyrepeatingaverse，withwhichthosethatareknowingandprovidenttakecaretobefurnished。
VerynearthehouseofMacleanstandsthecastleofCol，whichwasthemansionoftheLaird，tillthehousewasbuilt。Itisbuiltuponarock，asMr。Boswellremarked，thatitmightnotbemined。
Itisverystrong，andhavingbeennotlonguninhabited，isyetinrepair。Onthewallwas，notlongago，astonewithaninscription，importing，that\'ifanymanoftheclanofMaclonichshallappearbeforethiscastle，thoughhecomeatmidnight，withaman\'sheadinhishand，heshalltherefindsafetyandprotectionagainstallbuttheKing。\'
ThisisanoldHighlandtreatymadeuponaverymemorableoccasion。
Maclean，thesonofJohnGerves，whorecoveredCol，andconqueredBarra，hadobtained，itissaid，fromJamestheSecond，agrantofthelandsofLochiel，forfeited，Isuppose，bysomeoffenceagainstthestate。
Forfeitedestateswerenotinthosedaysquietlyresigned；Maclean，therefore，wentwithanarmedforcetoseizehisnewpossessions，and，Iknownotforwhatreason，tookhiswifewithhim。TheCameronsroseindefenceoftheirChief，andabattlewasfoughtattheheadofLochNess，neartheplacewhereFortAugustusnowstands，inwhichLochielobtainedthevictory，andMaclean，withhisfollowers，wasdefeatedanddestroyed。
Theladyfellintothehandsoftheconquerours，andbeingfoundpregnantwasplacedinthecustodyofMaclonich，oneofatribeorfamilybranchedfromCameron，withorders，ifshebroughtaboy，todestroyhim，ifagirl，tospareher。
Maclonich\'swife，whowaswithchildlikewise，hadagirlaboutthesametimeatwhichladyMacleanbroughtaboy，andMaclonichwithmoregenerositytohiscaptive，thanfidelitytohistrust，contrivedthatthechildrenshouldbechanged。
Macleanbeingthuspreservedfromdeath，intimerecoveredhisoriginalpatrimony；andingratitudetohisfriend，madehiscastleaplaceofrefugetoanyoftheclanthatshouldthinkhimselfindanger；and，asaproofofreciprocalconfidence，MacleantookuponhimselfandhisposteritythecareofeducatingtheheirofMaclonich。
Thisstory，likeallothertraditionsoftheHighlands，isvariouslyrelated，butthoughsomecircumstancesareuncertain，theprincipalfactistrue。MacleanundoubtedlyowedhispreservationtoMaclonich；forthetreatybetweenthetwofamilieshasbeenstrictlyobserved:itdidnotsinkintodisuseandoblivion，butcontinuedinitsfullforcewhilethechieftainsretainedtheirpower。Ihavereadademandofprotection，madenotmorethanthirty-sevenyearsago，foroneoftheMaclonichs，namedEwenCameron，whohadbeenaccessorytothedeathofMacmartin，andhadbeenbanishedbyLochiel，hislord，foracertainterm；attheexpirationofwhichhereturnedmarriedfromFrance，buttheMacmartins，notsatisfiedwiththepunishment，whenheattemptedtosettle，stillthreatenedhimwithvengeance。Hethereforeasked，andobtainedshelterintheIsleofCol。
Thepowerofprotectionsubsistsnolonger，butwhatthelawpermitsisyetcontinued，andMacleanofColnoweducatestheheirofMaclonich。
TherestillremainsintheIslands，thoughitispassingfastaway，thecustomoffosterage。ALaird，amanofwealthandeminence，sendshischild，eithermaleorfemale，toatacksman，ortenant，tobefostered。Itisnotalwayshisowntenant，butsomedistantfriendthatobtainsthishonour；foranhonoursuchatrustisveryreasonablythought。Thetermsoffosterageseemtovaryindifferentislands。InMull，thefathersendswithhischildacertainnumberofcows，towhichthesamenumberisaddedbythefosterer。Thefatherappropriatesaproportionableextentofground，withoutrent，fortheirpasturage。Ifeverycowbringsacalf，halfbelongstothefosterer，andhalftothechild；butiftherebeonlyonecalfbetweentwocows，itisthechild\'s，andwhenthechildreturnstotheparent，itisaccompaniedbyallthecowsgiven，bothbythefatherandbythefosterer，withhalfoftheincreaseofthestockbypropagation。Thesebeastsareconsideredasaportion，andcalledMacalivecattle，ofwhichthefatherhastheproduce，butissupposednottohavethefullproperty，buttoowethesamenumbertothechild，asaportiontothedaughter，orastockfortheson。
Childrencontinuewiththefostererperhapssixyears，andcannot，wherethisisthepractice，beconsideredasburdensome。Thefosterer，ifhegivesfourcows，receiveslikewisefour，andhas，whilethechildcontinueswithhim，grassforeightwithoutrent，withhalfthecalves，andallthemilk，forwhichhepaysonlyfourcowswhenhedismisseshisDalt，forthatisthenameforafosterchild。
Fosterageis，Ibelieve，sometimesperformeduponmoreliberalterms。Ourfriend，theyoungLairdofCol，wasfosteredbyMacsweynofGrissipol。MacsweynthenlivedatenanttoSirJamesMacdonaldintheIsleofSky；andthereforeCol，whetherhesenthimcattleornot，couldgranthimnoland。TheDalt，however，athisreturn，broughtbackaconsiderablenumberofMacalivecattle，andofthefriendshipsoformedtherehavebeengoodeffects。WhenMacdonaldraisedhisrents，Macsweynwas，likeothertenants，discontented，and，resigninghisfarm，removedfromSkytoCol，andwasestablishedatGrissipol。
TheseobservationswemadebyfavourofthecontrarywindthatdroveustoCol，anIslandnotoftenvisited；forthereisnotmuchtoamusecuriosity，ortoattractavarice。
Thegroundhasbeenhitherto，Ibelieve，usedchieflyforpasturage。Inadistrict，suchastheeyecancommand，thereisageneralherdsman，whoknowsallthecattleoftheneighbourhood，andwhosestationisuponahill，fromwhichhesurveysthelowergrounds；andifoneman\'scattleinvadeanother\'sgrass，drivesthembacktotheirownborders。Butothermeansofprofitbegintobefound；kelpisgatheredandburnt，andsloopsareloadedwiththeconcretedashes。Cultivationislikelytobeimprovedbytheskillandencouragementofthepresentheir，andtheinhabitantsofthoseobscurevallieswillpartakeofthegeneralprogressoflife。
TherentsofthepartswhichbelongtotheDukeofArgyle，havebeenraisedfromfifty-fivetoonehundredandfivepounds，whetherfromthelandortheseaIcannottell。Thebountiesoftheseahavelatelybeensogreat，thatafarminSouthuisthasrisenintenyearsfromarentofthirtypoundstoonehundredandeighty。
HewholivesinCol，andfindshimselfcondemnedtosolitarymeals，andincommunicablereflection，willfindtheusefulnessofthatmiddleorderofTacksmen，whichsomewhoapplaudtheirownwisdomarewishingtodestroy。Withoutintelligencemanisnotsocial，heisonlygregarious；andlittleintelligencewilltherebe，whereallareconstrainedtodailylabour，andeverymindmustwaituponthehand。
Afterhavinglistenedforsomedaystothetempest，andwanderedabouttheIslandtillourcuriositywassatisfied，webegantothinkaboutourdeparture。ToleaveColinOctoberwasnotveryeasy。Wehoweverfoundasloopwhichlayonthecoasttocarrykelp；andforapricewhichwethoughtlevieduponournecessities，themasteragreedtocarryustoMull，whencewemightreadilypassbacktoScotland。
MULL
Asweweretocatchthefirstfavourablebreath，wespentthenightnotveryelegantlynorpleasantlyinthevessel，andwerelandednextdayatToborMorar，aportinMull，whichappearstoanunexperiencedeyeformedforthesecurityofships；foritsmouthisclosedbyasmallisland，whichadmitsthemthroughnarrowchannelsintoabasonsufficientlycapacious。Theyareindeedsafefromthesea，butthereisahollowbetweenthemountains，throughwhichthewindissuesfromthelandwithverymischievousviolence。
Therewasnodangerwhilewewerethere，andwefoundseveralothervesselsatanchor；sothattheporthadaverycommercialappearance。
TheyoungLairdofCol，whohaddeterminednottoletuslosehiscompany，whiletherewasanydifficultyremaining，cameoverwithus。Hisinfluencesoonappeared；forheprocuredushorses，andconductedustothehouseofDoctorMaclean，wherewefoundverykindentertainment，andverypleasingconversation。MissMaclean，whowasborn，andhadbeenbredatGlasgow，havingremovedwithherfathertoMull，addedtootherqualifications，agreatknowledgeoftheEarselanguage，whichshehadnotlearnedinherchildhood，butgainedbystudy，andwastheonlyinterpreterofEarsepoetrythatIcouldeverfind。
TheIsleofMullisperhapsinextentthethirdoftheHebrides。
Itisnotbrokenbywaters，norshotintopromontories，butisasolidandcompactmass，ofbreadthnearlyequaltoitslength。OfthedimensionsofthelargerIslands，thereisnoknowledgeapproachingtoexactness。Iamwillingtoestimateitascontainingaboutthreehundredsquaremiles。
MullhadsufferedlikeSkybytheblackwinterofseventy-one，inwhich，contrarytoallexperience，acontinuedfrostdetainedthesnoweightweeksupontheground。Againstacalamityneverknown，noprovisionhadbeenmade，andthepeoplecouldonlypineinhelplessmisery。Onetenantwasmentioned，whosecattleperishedtothevalueofthreehundredpounds；alosswhichprobablymorethanthelifeofmanisnecessarytorepair。Incountrieslikethese，thedescriptionsoffaminebecomeintelligible。Wherebyvigorousandartfulcultivationofasoilnaturallyfertile，thereiscommonlyasuperfluousgrowthbothofgrainandgrass；wherethefieldsarecrowdedwithcattle；andwhereeveryhandisabletoattractwealthfromadistance，bymakingsomethingthatpromotesease，orgratifiesvanity，adearyearproducesonlyacomparativewant，whichisratherseenthanfelt，andwhichterminatescommonlyinnoworseeffect，thanthatofcondemningthelowerordersofthecommunitytosacrificealittleluxurytoconvenience，oratmostalittleconveniencetonecessity。
Butwheretheclimateisunkind，andthegroundpenurious，sothatthemostfruitfulyearswillproduceonlyenoughtomaintainthemselves；wherelifeunimproved，andunadorned，fadesintosomethinglittlemorethannakedexistence，andeveryoneisbusyforhimself，withoutanyartsbywhichthepleasureofothersmaybeincreased；iftothedailyburdenofdistressanyadditionalweightbeadded，nothingremainsbuttodespairanddie。InMullthedisappointmentofaharvest，oramurrainamongthecattle，cutsofftheregularprovision；andtheywhohavenomanufacturescanpurchasenopartofthesuperfluitiesofothercountries。Theconsequenceofabadseasonisherenotscarcity，butemptiness；
andtheywhoseplenty，wasbarelyasupplyofnaturalandpresentneed，whenthatslenderstockfails，mustperishwithhunger。
Alltravelhasitsadvantages。Ifthepassengervisitsbettercountries，hemaylearntoimprovehisown，andiffortunecarrieshimtoworse，hemaylearntoenjoyit。
Mr。Boswell\'scuriositystronglyimpelledhimtosurveyIona，orIcolmkil，whichwastotheearlyagesthegreatschoolofTheology，andissupposedtohavebeentheplaceofsepulturefortheancientkings。I，thoughlesseager，didnotopposehim。
Thatwemightperformthisexpedition，itwasnecessarytotraverseagreatpartofMull。WepassedadayatDr。Maclean\'s，andcouldhavebeenwellcontentedtostaylonger。ButColprovidedushorses，andwepursuedourjourney。Thiswasadayofinconvenience，forthecountryisveryrough，andmyhorsewasbutlittle。Wetravelledmanyhoursthroughatract，blackandbarren，inwhich，however，therewerethereliquesofhumanity；forwefoundaruinedchapelinourway。
Itisnatural，intraversingthisgloomofdesolation，toinquire，whethersomethingmaynotbedonetogivenatureamorecheerfulface，andwhetherthosehillsandmoorsthataffordheathcannotwithalittlecareandlabourbearsomethingbetter?Thefirstthoughtthatoccursistocoverthemwithtrees，forthatinmanyofthesenakedregionstreeswillgrow，isevident，becausestumpsandrootsareyetremaining；andthespeculatisthastilyproceedstocensurethatnegligenceandlazinessthathasomittedforsolongatimesoeasyanimprovement。
Todropseedsintotheground，andattendtheirgrowth，requireslittlelabourandnoskill。Hewhoremembersthatallthewoods，bywhichthewantsofmanhavebeensuppliedfromtheDelugetillnow，wereself-sown，willnoteasilybepersuadedtothinkalltheartandpreparationnecessary，whichtheGeorgickwritersprescribetoplanters。Treescertainlyhavecoveredtheearthwithverylittleculture。TheywavetheirtopsamongtherocksofNorway，andmightthriveaswellintheHighlandsandHebrides。
Butthereisafrightfulintervalbetweentheseedandtimber。Hethatcalculatesthegrowthoftrees，hastheunwelcomeremembranceoftheshortnessoflifedrivenharduponhim。Heknowsthatheisdoingwhatwillneverbenefithimself；andwhenherejoicestoseethestemrise，isdisposedtorepinethatanothershallcutitdown。
Plantationisnaturallytheemploymentofamindunburdenedwithcare，andvacanttofuturity，saturatedwithpresentgood，andatleisuretoderivegratificationfromtheprospectofposterity。Hethatpineswithhunger，isinlittlecarehowothersshallbefed。
Thepoormanisseldomstudioustomakehisgrandsonrich。Itmaybesoondiscovered，whyinaplace，whichhardlysuppliesthecravingsofnecessity，therehasbeenlittleattentiontothedelightsoffancy，andwhydistantconvenienceisunregarded，wherethethoughtsareturnedwithincessantsolicitudeuponeverypossibilityofimmediateadvantage。
Neitherisitquitesoeasytoraiselargewoods，asmaybeconceived。Treesintendedtoproducetimbermustbesownwheretheyaretogrow；andgroundsownwithtreesmustbekeptuselessforalongtime，inclosedatanexpencefromwhichmanywillbediscouragedbytheremotenessoftheprofit，andwatchedwiththatattention，which，inplaceswhereitismostneeded，willneitherbegivennorbought。Thatitcannotbeplowedisevident；andifcattlebesufferedtograzeuponit，theywilldevourtheplantsasfastastheyrise。Evenincoarsercountries，whereherdsandflocksarenotfed，notonlythedeerandthewildgoatswillbrowseuponthem，butthehareandrabbitwillnibblethem。Itisthereforereasonabletobelieve，whatIdonotrememberanynaturalisttohaveremarked，thattherewasatimewhentheworldwasverythinlyinhabitedbybeasts，aswellasmen，andthatthewoodshadleisuretorisehighbeforeanimalshadbrednumberssufficienttointerceptthem。
SirJamesMacdonald，inpartofthewastesofhisterritory，setorsowedtrees，tothenumber，asIhavebeentold，ofseveralmillions，expecting，doubtless，thattheywouldgrowupintofuturenaviesandcities；butforwantofinclosure，andofthatcarewhichisalwaysnecessary，andwillhardlyeverbetaken，allhiscostandlabourhavebeenlost，andthegroundislikelytocontinueanuselessheath。
HavingnotanyexperienceofajourneyinMull，wehadnodoubtofreachingtheseabyday-light，andthereforehadnotleftDr。
Maclean\'sveryearly。Wetravelleddiligentlyenough，butfoundthecountry，forroadtherewasnone，verydifficulttopass。Wewerealwaysstrugglingwithsomeobstructionorother，andourvexationwasnotbalancedbyanygratificationoftheeyeormind。
Wewerenowlongenoughacquaintedwithhillsandheathtohavelosttheemotionthattheyonceraised，whetherpleasingorpainful，andhadourmindemployedonlyonourownfatigue。Wewerehoweversure，underCol\'sprotection，ofescapingallrealevils。TherewasnohouseinMulltowhichhecouldnotintroduceus。Hehadintendedtolodgeus，forthatnight，withagentlemanthatliveduponthecoast，butdiscoveredontheway，thathethenlayinbedwithouthopeoflife。
Weresolvednottoembarrassafamily，inatimeofsomuchsorrow，ifanyotherexpedientcouldhefound；andastheIslandofUlvawasover-againstus，itwasdeterminedthatweshouldpassthestraitandhaverecoursetotheLaird，who，liketheothergentlemenoftheIslands，wasknowntoCol。Weexpectedtofindaferry-boat，butwhenatlastwecametothewater，theboatwasgone。
Wewerenowagainatastop。ItwasthesixteenthofOctober，atimewhenitisnotconvenienttosleepintheHebrideswithoutacover，andtherewasnohousewithinourreach，butthatwhichwehadalreadydeclined。
ULVA
Whilewestooddeliberating，wewerehappilyespiedfromanIrishship，thatlayatanchorinthestrait。Themastersawthatwewantedapassage，andwithgreatcivilitysentushisboat，whichquicklyconveyedustoUlva，wherewewereveryliberallyentertainedbyMr。Macquarry。
ToUlvawecameinthedark，andleftitbeforenoonthenextday。
Averyexactdescriptionthereforewillnotbeexpected。Weweretold，thatitisanIslandofnogreatextent，roughandbarren，inhabitedbytheMacquarrys；aclannotpowerfulnornumerous，butofantiquity，whichmostotherfamiliesarecontenttoreverence。
Thenameissupposedtobeadepravationofsomeother；fortheEarselanguagedoesnotafforditanyetymology。MacquarryisproprietorbothofUlvaandsomeadjacentIslands，amongwhichisStaffa，solatelyraisedtorenownbyMr。Banks。
WhentheIslanderswerereproachedwiththeirignorance，orinsensibilityofthewondersofStaffa，theyhadnotmuchtoreply。
Theyhadindeedconsidereditlittle，becausetheyhadalwaysseenit；andnonebutphilosophers，northeyalways，arestruckwithwonder，otherwisethanbynovelty。Howwoulditsurpriseanunenlightenedploughman，tohearacompanyofsobermen，inquiringbywhatpowerthehandtossesastone，orwhythestone，whenitistossed，fallstotheground!
OftheancestorsofMacquarry，whothuslieshidinhisunfrequentedIsland，Ihavefoundmemorialsinallplaceswheretheycouldbeexpected。
Inquiringafterthereliquesofformermanners，IfoundthatinUlva，and，Ithink，nowhereelse，iscontinuedthepaymentoftheMerchetaMulierum；afineinoldtimesduetotheLairdatthemarriageofavirgin。Theoriginalofthisclaim，asofourtenureofBoroughEnglish，isvariouslydelivered。Itispleasanttofindancientcustomsinoldfamilies。Thispayment，likeothers，was，forwantofmoney，madeancientlyintheproduceoftheland。
Macquarrywasusedtodemandasheep，forwhichhenowtakesacrown，bythatinattentiontotheuncertainproportionbetweenthevalueandthedenominationofmoney，whichhasbroughtmuchdisorderintoEurope。Asheephasalwaysthesamepowerofsupplyinghumanwants，butacrownwillbringatonetimemore，atanotherless。
Ulvawasnotneglectedbythepietyofardenttimes:ithasstilltoshowwhatwasonceachurch。
INCHKENNETH
Inthemorningwewentagainintotheboat，andwerelandedonInchKenneth，anIslandaboutamilelong，andperhapshalfamilebroad，remarkableforpleasantnessandfertility。Itisverdantandgrassy，andfitbothforpastureandtillage；butithasnotrees。ItsonlyinhabitantswereSirAllanMacleanandtwoyoungladies，hisdaughters，withtheirservants。
RomancedoesnotoftenexhibitascenethatstrikestheimaginationmorethanthislittledesertinthesedepthsofWesternobscurity，occupiednotbyagrossherdsman，oramphibiousfisherman，butbyagentlemanandtwoladies，ofhighbirth，polishedmannersandelegantconversation，who，inahabitationraisednotveryfarabovetheground，butfurnishedwithunexpectedneatnessandconvenience，practisedallthekindnessofhospitality，andrefinementofcourtesy。
SirAllanistheChieftainofthegreatclanofMaclean，whichissaidtoclaimthesecondplaceamongtheHighlandfamilies，yieldingonlytoMacdonald。Thoughbythemisconductofhisancestors，mostoftheextensiveterritory，whichwouldhavedescendedtohim，hasbeenalienated，hestillretainsmuchofthedignityandauthorityofhisbirth。WhensoldierswerelatelywantingfortheAmericanwar，applicationwasmadetoSirAllan，andhenominatedahundredmenfortheservice，whoobeyedthesummons，andborearmsunderhiscommand。
Hehadthen，forsometime，residedwiththeyoungladiesinInchKenneth，wherehelivesnotonlywithplenty，butwithelegance，havingconveyedtohiscottageacollectionofbooks，andwhatelseisnecessarytomakehishourspleasant。
Whenwelanded，weweremetbySirAllanandtheLadies，accompaniedbyMissMacquarry，whohadpassedsometimewiththem，andnowreturnedtoUlvawithherfather。
Weallwalkedtogethertothemansion，wherewefoundonecottageforSirAllan，andIthinktwomoreforthedomesticksandtheoffices。Weentered，andwantedlittlethatpalacesafford。Ourroomwasneatlyfloored，andwelllighted；andourdinner，whichwasdressedinoneoftheotherhuts，wasplentifulanddelicate。
IntheafternoonSirAllanremindedus，thatthedaywasSunday，whichheneversufferedtopasswithoutsomereligiousdistinction，andinvitedustopartakeinhisactsofdomestickworship；whichI
hopeneitherMr。Boswellnormyselfwillbesuspectedofadispositiontorefuse。TheelderoftheLadiesreadtheEnglishservice。
InchKennethwasonceaseminaryofecclesiasticks，subordinate，I
suppose，toIcolmkill。SirAllanhadamindtotracethefoundationsofthecollege，butneitherInorMr。Boswell，whobendsakeenereyeonvacancy，wereabletoperceivethem。
Ourattention，however，wassufficientlyengagedbyavenerablechapel，whichstandsyetentire，exceptthattheroofisgone。Itisaboutsixtyfeetinlength，andthirtyinbreadth。OnonesideofthealtarisabasreliefoftheblessedVirgin，andbyitliesalittlebell；which，thoughcracked，andwithoutaclapper，hasremainedthereforages，guardedonlybythevenerablenessoftheplace。Thegroundroundthechapeliscoveredwithgrave-stonesofChiefsandladies；andstillcontinuestobeaplaceofsepulture。
InchKennethisaproperpreludetoIcolmkill。Itwasnotwithoutsomemournfulemotionthatwecontemplatedtheruinsofreligiousstructuresandthemonumentsofthedead。
Onthenextdaywetookamoredistinctviewoftheplace，andwentwiththeboattoseeoystersinthebed，outofwhichtheboat-menforcedupasmanyaswerewanted。EvenInchKennethhasasubordinateIsland，namedSandiland，Isupposeincontempt，wherewelanded，andfoundarock，withasurfaceofperhapsfouracres，ofwhichoneisnakedstone，anotherspreadwithsandandshells，someofwhichIpickedupfortheirglossybeauty，andtwocoveredwithalittleearthandgrass，onwhichSirAllanhasafewsheep。