IdoubtnotbutwhentherewasacollegeatInchKenneth，therewasahermitageuponSandiland。
Havingwanderedoverthoseextensiveplains，wecommittedourselvesagaintothewindsandwaters；andafteravoyageofabouttenminutes，inwhichwemetwithnothingveryobservable，wereagainsafeupondryground。
WetoldSirAllanourdesireofvisitingIcolmkill，andentreatedhimtogiveushisprotection，andhiscompany。Hethoughtpropertohesitatealittle，buttheLadieshinted，thatastheyknewhewouldnotfinallyrefuse，hewoulddobetterifhepreservedthegraceofreadycompliance。Hetooktheiradvice，andpromisedtocarryusonthemorrowinhisboat。
Wepassedtheremainingpartofthedayinsuchamusementsaswereinourpower。SirAllanrelatedtheAmericancampaign，andateveningoneoftheLadiesplayedonherharpsichord，whileColandMr。BoswelldancedaScottishreelwiththeother。
WecouldhavebeeneasilypersuadedtoalongerstayuponInchKenneth，butlifewillnotbeallpassedindelight。ThesessionatEdinburghwasapproaching，fromwhichMr。Boswellcouldnotbeabsent。
Inthemorningourboatwasready:itwashighandstrong。SirAllanvictualleditfortheday，andprovidedablerowers。WenowpartedfromtheyoungLairdofCol，whohadtreateduswithsomuchkindness，andconcludedhisfavoursbyconsigningustoSirAllan。
Herewehadthelastembraceofthisamiableman，who，whilethesepageswerepreparingtoattesthisvirtues，perishedinthepassagebetweenUlvaandInchKenneth。
SirAllan，towhomthewholeregionwaswellknown，toldusofaveryremarkablecave，towhichhewouldshowustheway。Wehadbeendisappointedalreadybyonecave，andwerenotmuchelevatedbytheexpectationofanother。
Itwasyetbettertoseeit，andwestoppedatsomerocksonthecoastofMull。Themouthisfortifiedbyvastfragmentsofstone，overwhichwemadeourway，neitherverynimbly，norverysecurely。
Theplace，however，wellrepaidourtrouble。Thebottom，asfarasthefloodrushesin，wasencumberedwithlargepebbles，butasweadvancedwasspreadoverwithsmoothsand。Thebreadthisaboutforty-fivefeet:theroofrisesinanarch，almostregular，toaheightwhichwecouldnotmeasure；butIthinkitaboutthirtyfeet。
Thispartofourcuriositywasnearlyfrustrated；forthoughwewenttoseeacave，andknewthatcavesaredark，weforgottocarrytapers，anddidnotdiscoverouromissiontillwewerewakenedbyourwants。SirAllanthensentoneoftheboatmenintothecountry，whosoonreturnedwithonelittlecandle。Wewerethusenabledtogoforward，butcouldnotventurefar。Havingpassedinwardfromtheseatoagreatdepth，wefoundontherighthandanarrowpassage，perhapsnotmorethansixfeetwide，obstructedbygreatstones，overwhichweclimbedandcameintoasecondcave，inbreadthtwenty-fivefeet。Theairinthisapartmentwasverywarm，butnotoppressive，norloadedwithvapours。Ourlightshowednotokensofafeculentorcorruptedatmosphere。Herewasasquarestone，called，aswearetold，Fingal\'sTable。
Ifwehadbeenprovidedwithtorches，weshouldhaveproceededinoursearch，thoughwehadalreadygoneasfarasanyformeradventurer，exceptsomewhoarereportednevertohavereturned；
and，measuringourwayback，wefounditmorethanahundredandsixtyyards，theeleventhpartofamile。
Ourmeasureswerenotcriticallyexact，havingbeenmadewithawalkingpole，suchasitisconvenienttocarryintheserockycountries，ofwhichIguessedthelengthbystandingagainstit。
Inthistherecouldbenogreaterrour，nordoImuchdoubtbuttheHighlander，whomweemployed，reportedthenumberright。Morenicetyhoweverisbetter，andnomanshouldtravelunprovidedwithinstrumentsfortakingheightsanddistances。
Thereisyetanothercauseoferrournotalwayseasilysurmounted，thoughmoredangeroustotheveracityofitinerarynarratives，thanimperfectmensuration。Anobserverdeeplyimpressedbyanyremarkablespectacle，doesnotsuppose，thatthetraceswillsoonvanishfromhismind，andhavingcommonlynogreatconvenienceforwriting，defersthedescriptiontoatimeofmoreleisure，andbetteraccommodation。
Hewhohasnotmadetheexperiment，orwhoisnotaccustomedtorequirerigorousaccuracyfromhimself，willscarcelybelievehowmuchafewhourstakefromcertaintyofknowledge，anddistinctnessofimagery；howthesuccessionofobjectswillbebroken，howseparatepartswillbeconfused，andhowmanyparticularfeaturesanddiscriminationswillbecompressedandconglobatedintoonegrossandgeneralidea。
Tothisdilatorynotationmustbeimputedthefalserelationsoftravellers，wherethereisnoimaginablemotivetodeceive。Theytrustedtomemory，whatcannotbetrustedsafelybuttotheeye，andtoldbyguesswhatafewhoursbeforetheyhadknownwithcertainty。ThusitwasthatWheelerandSpondescribedwithirreconcilablecontrarietythingswhichtheysurveyedtogether，andwhichbothundoubtedlydesignedtoshowastheysawthem。
Whenwehadsatisfiedourcuriosityinthecave，sofarasourpenuryoflightpermittedus，weclamberedagaintoourboat，andproceededalongthecoastofMulltoaheadland，calledAtun，remarkableforthecolumnarformoftherocks，whichriseinaseriesofpilasters，withadegreeofregularity，whichSirAllanthinksnotlessworthyofcuriositythantheshoreofStaffa。
Notlongafterwecametoanotherrangeofblackrocks，whichhadtheappearanceofbrokenpilasters，setonebehindanothertoagreatdepth。ThisplacewaschosenbySirAllanforourdinner。
Wewereeasilyaccommodatedwithseats，forthestoneswereofallheights，andrefreshedourselvesandourboatmen，whocouldhavenootherresttillwewereatIcolmkill。
Theeveningwasnowapproaching，andwewereyetataconsiderabledistancefromtheendofourexpedition。Wecouldthereforestopnomoretomakeremarksintheway，butsetforwardwithsomedegreeofeagerness。Thedaysoonfailedus，andthemoonpresentedaverysolemnandpleasingscene。Theskywasclear，sothattheeyecommandedawidecircle:theseawasneitherstillnorturbulent:thewindneithersilentnorloud。Wewereneverfarfromonecoastoranother，onwhich，iftheweatherhadbecomeviolent，wecouldhavefoundshelter，andthereforecontemplatedateasetheregionthroughwhichweglidedinthetranquillityofthenight，andsawnowarockandnowanislandgrowgraduallyconspicuousandgraduallyobscure。IcommittedthefaultwhichI
havejustbeencensuring，inneglecting，aswepassed，tonotetheseriesofthisplacidnavigation。
WewereverynearanIsland，calledNun\'sIsland，perhapsfromanancientconvent。HereissaidtohavebeendugthestonethatwasusedinthebuildingsofIcolmkill。Whetheritisnowinhabitedwecouldnotstaytoinquire。
AtlastwecametoIcolmkill，butfoundnoconvenienceforlanding。
Ourboatcouldnotbeforcedverynearthedryground，andourHighlanderscarriedusoverthewater。
WewerenowtreadingthatillustriousIsland，whichwasoncetheluminaryoftheCaledonianregions，whencesavageclansandrovingbarbariansderivedthebenefitsofknowledge，andtheblessingsofreligion。Toabstractthemindfromalllocalemotionwouldbeimpossible，ifitwereendeavoured，andwouldbefoolish，ifitwerepossible。Whateverwithdrawsusfromthepowerofoursenses；
whatevermakesthepast，thedistant，orthefuturepredominateoverthepresent，advancesusinthedignityofthinkingbeings。
Farfrommeandfrommyfriends，besuchfrigidphilosophyasmayconductusindifferentandunmovedoveranygroundwhichhasbeendignifiedbywisdom，bravery，orvirtue。Thatmanislittletobeenvied，whosepatriotismwouldnotgainforceupontheplainofMarathon，orwhosepietywouldnotgrowwarmeramongtheruinsofIona!
Wecametoolatetovisitmonuments:somecarewasnecessaryforourselves。WhateverwasintheIsland，SirAllancouldcommand，fortheinhabitantswereMacleans；buthavinglittletheycouldnotgiveusmuch。HewenttotheheadmanoftheIsland，whomFame，butFamedelightsinamplifying，representsasworthnolessthanfiftypounds。Hewasperhapsproudenoughofhisguests，butillpreparedforourentertainment；however，hesoonproducedmoreprovisionthanmennotluxuriousrequire。Ourlodgingwasnexttobeprovided。Wefoundabarnwellstockedwithhay，andmadeourbedsassoftaswecould。
Inthemorningweroseandsurveyedtheplace。Thechurchesofthetwoconventsarebothstanding，thoughunroofed。Theywerebuiltofunhewnstone，butsolid，andnotinelegant。Ibroughtawayrudemeasuresofthebuildings，suchasIcannotmuchtrustmyself，inaccuratelytaken，andobscurelynoted。Mr。Pennant\'sdelineations，whicharedoubtlessexact，havemademyunskilfuldescriptionlessnecessary。
Theepiscopalchurchconsistsoftwoparts，separatedbythebelfry，andbuiltatdifferenttimes。Theoriginalchurchhad，likeothers，thealtaratoneend，andtowerattheother:butasitgrewtoosmall，anotherbuildingofequaldimensionwasadded，andthetowerthenwasnecessarilyinthemiddle。
Thattheseedificesareofdifferentagesseemsevident。ThearchofthefirstchurchisRoman，beingpartofacircle；thatoftheadditionalbuildingispointed，andthereforeGothick，orSaracenical；thetowerisfirm，andwantsonlytobeflooredandcovered。
Ofthechambersorcellsbelongingtothemonks，therearesomewallsremaining，butnothingapproachingtoacompleteapartment。
Thebottomofthechurchissoincumberedwithmudandrubbish，thatwecouldmakenodiscoveriesofcuriousinscriptions，andwhattherearehavebeenalreadypublished。Theplaceissaidtobeknownwheretheblackstoneslieconcealed，onwhichtheoldHighlandChiefs，whentheymadecontractsandalliances，usedtotaketheoath，whichwasconsideredasmoresacredthananyotherobligation，andwhichcouldnotbeviolatedwithouttheblackestinfamy。Inthosedaysofviolenceandrapine，itwasofgreatimportancetoimpressuponsavagemindsthesanctityofanoath，bysomeparticularandextraordinarycircumstances。Theywouldnothaverecoursetotheblackstones，uponsmallorcommonoccasions，andwhentheyhadestablishedtheirfaithbythistremendoussanction，inconstancyandtreacherywerenolongerfeared。
Thechapelofthenunneryisnowusedbytheinhabitantsasakindofgeneralcow-house，andthebottomisconsequentlytoomiryforexamination。Someofthestoneswhichcoveredthelaterabbesseshaveinscriptions，whichmightyetberead，ifthechapelwerecleansed。Theroofofthis，asofalltheotherbuildings，istotallydestroyed，notonlybecausetimberquicklydecayswhenitisneglected，butbecauseinanislandutterlydestituteofwood，itwaswantedforuse，andwasconsequentlythefirstplunderofneedyrapacity。
Thechancelofthenuns\'chapeliscoveredwithanarchofstone，towhichtimehasdonenoinjury；andasmallapartmentcommunicatingwiththechoir，onthenorthside，likethechapter-
houseincathedrals，roofedwithstoneinthesamemanner，islikewiseentire。
Inoneofthechurcheswasamarblealtar，whichthesuperstitionoftheinhabitantshasdestroyed。Theiropinionwas，thatafragmentofthisstonewasadefenceagainstshipwrecks，fire，andmiscarriages。Inonecornerofthechurchthebasonforholywaterisyetunbroken。
Thecemeteryofthenunnerywas，tillverylately，regardedwithsuchreverence，thatonlywomenwereburiedinit。Thesereliquesofvenerationalwaysproducesomemournfulpleasure。Icouldhaveforgivenagreatinjurymoreeasilythantheviolationofthisimaginarysanctity。
Southofthechapelstandthewallsofalargeroom，whichwasprobablythehall，orrefectoryofthenunnery。Thisapartmentiscapableofrepair。Oftherestoftheconventthereareonlyfragments。
Besidesthetwoprincipalchurches，thereare，Ithink，fivechapelsyetstanding，andthreemoreremembered。Therearealsocrosses，ofwhichtwobearthenamesofSt。JohnandSt。Matthew。
Alargespaceofgroundabouttheseconsecratededificesiscoveredwithgravestones，fewofwhichhaveanyinscription。Hethatsurveysit，attendedbyaninsularantiquary，maybetoldwheretheKingsofmanynationsareburied，andifhelovestosoothhisimaginationwiththethoughtsthatnaturallyriseinplaceswherethegreatandthepowerfulliemingledwiththedust，lethimlisteninsubmissivesilence；forifheasksanyquestions，hisdelightisatanend。
Ionahaslongenjoyed，withoutanyverycredibleattestation，thehonourofbeingreputedthecemeteryoftheScottishKings。Itisnotunlikely，that，whentheopinionoflocalsanctitywasprevalent，theChieftainsoftheIsles，andperhapssomeoftheNorwegianorIrishprinceswererepositedinthisvenerableenclosure。Butbywhomthesubterraneousvaultsarepeopledisnowutterlyunknown。Thegravesareverynumerous，andsomeofthemundoubtedlycontaintheremainsofmen，whodidnotexpecttobesosoonforgotten。
Notfarfromthisawfulground，maybetracedthegardenofthemonastery:thefishpondsareyetdiscernible，andtheaqueduct，whichsuppliedthem，isstillinuse。
Thereremainsabrokenbuilding，whichiscalledtheBishop\'shouse，Iknownotbywhatauthority。Itwasoncetheresidenceofsomemanabovethecommonrank，forithastwostoriesandachimney。Wewereshewnachimneyattheotherend，whichwasonlyanich，withoutperforation，butsomuchdoesantiquariancredulity，orpatriotickvanityprevail，thatitwasnotmuchmoresafetotrusttheeyeofourinstructorthanthememory。
ThereisintheIslandonehousemore，andonlyone，thathasachimney:weenteredit，andfounditneitherwantingrepairnorinhabitants；buttothefarmers，whonowpossessit，thechimneyisofnogreatvalue；fortheirfirewasmadeonthefloor，inthemiddleoftheroom，andnotwithstandingthedignityoftheirmansion，theyrejoiced，liketheirneighbours，inthecomfortsofsmoke。
Itisobserved，thatecclesiasticalcollegesarealwaysinthemostpleasantandfruitfulplaces。Whiletheworldallowedthemonkstheirchoice，itissurelynodishonourthattheychosewell。ThisIslandisremarkablyfruitful。Thevillagenearthechurchesissaidtocontainseventyfamilies，which，atfiveinafamily，ismorethanahundredinhabitantstoamile。Thereareperhapsothervillages:yetbothcornandcattleareannuallyexported。
ButthefruitfulnessofIonaisnowitswholeprosperity。Theinhabitantsareremarkablygross，andremarkablyneglected:IknownotiftheyarevisitedbyanyMinister。TheIsland，whichwasoncethemetropolisoflearningandpiety，hasnownoschoolforeducation，nortempleforworship，onlytwoinhabitantsthatcanspeakEnglish，andnotonethatcanwriteorread。
ThepeopleareoftheclanofMaclean；andthoughSirAllanhadnotbeenintheplaceformanyyears，hewasreceivedwithallthereverenceduetotheirChieftain。Oneofthembeingsharplyreprehendedbyhim，fornotsendinghimsomerum，declaredafterhisdeparture，inMr。Boswell\'spresence，thathehadnodesignofdisappointinghim，\'for，\'saidhe，\'Iwouldcutmybonesforhim；
andifhehadsenthisdogforit，heshouldhavehadit。\'
Whenweweretodepart，ourboatwasleftbytheebbatagreatdistancefromthewater，butnosoonerdidwewishitafloat，thantheislandersgatheredroundit，and，bytheunionofmanyhands，pusheditdownthebeach；everymanwhocouldcontributehishelpseemedtothinkhimselfhappyintheopportunityofbeing，foramoment，usefultohisChief。
Wenowleftthoseillustriousruins，bywhichMr。Boswellwasmuchaffected，norwouldIwillinglybethoughttohavelookeduponthemwithoutsomeemotion。Perhaps，intherevolutionsoftheworld，IonamaybesometimeagaintheinstructressoftheWesternRegions。
ItwasnolongvoyagetoMull，where，underSirAllan\'sprotection，welandedintheevening，andwereentertainedforthenightbyMr。
Maclean，aMinisterthatlivesuponthecoast，whoseeleganceofconversation，andstrengthofjudgment，wouldmakehimconspicuousinplacesofgreatercelebrity。NextdaywedinedwithDr。
Maclean，anotherphysician，andthentravelledontothehouseofaverypowerfulLaird，MacleanofLochbuy；forinthiscountryeveryman\'snameisMaclean。
Whereracesarethusnumerous，andthuscombined，nonebuttheChiefofaclanisaddressedbyhisname。TheLairdofDunveganiscalledMacleod，butothergentlemenofthesamefamilyaredenominatedbytheplaceswheretheyreside，asRaasa，orTalisker。
ThedistinctionofthemeanerpeopleismadebytheirChristiannames。Inconsequenceofthispractice，thelateLairdofMacfarlane，aneminentgenealogist，consideredhimselfasdisrespectfullytreated，ifthecommonadditionwasappliedtohim。
Mr。Macfarlane，saidhe，maywithequalproprietybesaidtomany；
butI，andIonly，amMacfarlane。
Ourafternoonjourneywasthroughacountryofsuchgloomydesolation，thatMr。BoswellthoughtnopartoftheHighlandsequallyterrifick，yetwecamewithoutanydifficulty，atevening，toLochbuy，wherewefoundatrueHighlandLaird，roughandhaughty，andtenaciousofhisdignity；who，hearingmyname，inquiredwhetherIwasoftheJohnstonsofGlencroe，orofArdnamurchan。
Lochbuyhas，liketheotherinsularChieftains，quittedthecastlethatshelteredhisancestors，andlivesnearit，inamansionnotveryspaciousorsplendid。IhaveseennohousesintheIslandsmuchtobeenviedforconvenienceormagnificence，yettheybaretestimonytotheprogressofartsandcivility，astheyshewthatrapineandsurprisearenolongerdreaded，andaremuchmorecommodiousthantheancientfortresses。
ThecastlesoftheHebrides，manyofwhicharestanding，andmanyruined，werealwaysbuiltuponpointsofland，onthemarginofthesea。Forthechoiceofthissituationtheremusthavebeensomegeneralreason，whichthechangeofmannershasleftinobscurity。
Theywereofnouseinthedaysofpiracy，asdefencesofthecoast；foritwasequallyaccessibleinotherplaces。Hadtheybeensea-marksorlight-houses，theywouldhavebeenofmoreusetotheinvaderthanthenatives，whocouldwantnosuchdirectionsoftheirownwaters:forawatch-tower，acottageonahillwouldhavebeenbetter，asitwouldhavecommandedawiderview。
Iftheybeconsideredmerelyasplacesofretreat，thesituationseemsnotwellchosen；fortheLairdofanIslandissafestfromforeignenemiesinthecenter；onthecoasthemightbemoresuddenlysurprisedthanintheinlandparts；andtheinvaders，iftheirenterprisemiscarried，mightmoreeasilyretreat。Someconvenience，however，whateveritwas，theirpositionontheshoreafforded；foruniformityofpracticeseldomcontinueslongwithoutgoodreason。
AcastleintheIslandsisonlyasingletowerofthreeorfourstories，ofwhichthewallsaresometimeseightorninefeetthick，withnarrowwindows，andclosewindingstairsofstone。Thetoprisesinacone，orpyramidofstone，encompassedbybattlements。
Theintermediatefloorsaresometimesframesoftimber，asincommonhouses，andsometimesarchesofstone，oralternatelystoneandtimber；sothattherewasverylittledangerfromfire。Inthecenterofeveryfloor，fromtoptobottom，isthechiefroom，ofnogreatextent，roundwhichtherearenarrowcavities，orrecesses，formedbysmallvacuities，orbyadoublewall。Iknownotwhethertherebeevermorethanonefire-place。Theyhadnotcapacitytocontainmanypeople，ormuchprovision；buttheirenemiescouldseldomstaytoblockadethem；foriftheyfailedinthefirstattack，theirnextcarewastoescape。
Thewallswerealwaystoostrongtobeshakenbysuchdesultoryhostilities；thewindowsweretoonarrowtobeentered，andthebattlementstoohightobescaled。Theonlydangerwasatthegates，overwhichthewallwasbuiltwithasquarecavity，notunlikeachimney，continuedtothetop。Throughthishollowthedefendantsletfallstonesuponthosewhoattemptedtobreakthegate，andpoureddownwater，perhapsscaldingwater，iftheattackwasmadewithfire。ThecastleofLochbuywassecuredbydoubledoors，ofwhichtheouterwasanirongrate。
Ineverycastleisawellandadungeon。Theuseofthewellisevident。Thedungeonisadeepsubterraneouscavity，walledonthesides，andarchedonthetop，intowhichthedescentisthroughanarrowdoor，byaladderorarope，sothatitseemsimpossibletoescape，whentheropeorladderisdrawnup。Thedungeonwas，I
suppose，inwar，aprisonforsuchcaptivesasweretreatedwithseverity，and，inpeace，forsuchdelinquentsashadcommittedcrimeswithintheLaird\'sjurisdiction；forthemansionsofmanyLairdswere，tillthelateprivationoftheirprivileges，thehallsofjusticetotheirowntenants。
Asthesefortificationsweretheproductionsofmerenecessity，theyarebuiltonlyforsafety，withlittleregardtoconvenience，andwithnonetoeleganceorpleasure。ItwassufficientforaLairdoftheHebrides，ifhehadastronghouse，inwhichhecouldhidehiswifeandchildrenfromthenextclan。Thattheyarenotlargenorsplendidisnowonder。Itisnoteasytofindhowtheywereraised，suchastheyare，bymenwhohadnomoney，incountrieswherethelabourersandartificerscouldscarcelybefed。
ThebuildingsindifferentpartsoftheIslandshewtheirdegreesofwealthandpower。IbelievethatforallthecastleswhichI
haveseenbeyondtheTweed，theruinsyetremainingofsomeoneofthosewhichtheEnglishbuiltinWales，wouldsupplymaterials。
Thesecastlesaffordanotherevidencethatthefictionsofromantickchivalryhadfortheirbasistherealmannersofthefeudaltimes，wheneveryLordofaseignorylivedinhisholdlawlessandunaccountable，withallthelicentiousnessandinsolenceofuncontestedsuperiorityandunprincipledpower。Thetraveller，whoeverhemightbe，comingtothefortifiedhabitationofaChieftain，would，probably，havebeeninterrogatedfromthebattlements，admittedwithcautionatthegate，introducedtoapettyMonarch，fiercewithhabitualhostility，andvigilantwithignorantsuspicion；who，accordingtohisgeneraltemper，oraccidentalhumour，wouldhaveseatedastrangerashisguestatthetable，orasaspyconfinedhiminthedungeon。
LochbuymeanstheYellowLake，whichisthenamegiventoaninletofthesea，uponwhichthecastleofMr。Macleanstands。Thereasonoftheappellationwedidnotlearn。
WewerenowtoleavetheHebrides，wherewehadspentsomeweekswithsufficientamusement，andwherewehadamplifiedourthoughtswithnewscenesofnature，andnewmodesoflife。Moretimewouldhavegivenusamoredistinctview，butitwasnecessarythatMr。
Boswellshouldreturnbeforethecourtsofjusticewereopened；anditwasnotpropertolivetoolonguponhospitality，howeverliberallyimparted。
OftheseIslandsitmustbeconfessed，thattheyhavenotmanyallurements，buttothemereloverofnakednature。Theinhabitantsarethin，provisionsarescarce，anddesolationandpenurygivelittlepleasure。
Thepeoplecollectivelyconsideredarenotfew，thoughtheirnumbersaresmallinproportiontothespacewhichtheyoccupy。
Mullissaidtocontainsixthousand，andSkyfifteenthousand。OfthecomputationrespectingMull，Icangivenoaccount；butwhenI
doubtedthetruthofthenumbersattributedtoSky，oneoftheMinistersexhibitedsuchfactsasconqueredmyincredulity。
Oftheproportion，whichtheproductofanyregionbearstothepeople，anestimateiscommonlymadeaccordingtothepecuniarypriceofthenecessariesoflife；aprincipleofjudgmentwhichisnevercertain，becauseitsupposeswhatisfarfromtruth，thatthevalueofmoneyisalwaysthesame，andsomeasuresanunknownquantitybyanuncertainstandard。Itiscompetentenoughwhenthemarketsofthesamecountry，atdifferenttimes，andthosetimesnottoodistant，aretobecompared；butofverylittleuseforthepurposeofmakingonenationacquaintedwiththestateofanother。
Provisions，thoughplentiful，aresoldinplacesofgreatpecuniaryopulencefornominalprices，towhich，howeverscarce，wheregoldandsilverareyetscarcer，theycanneverberaised。
IntheWesternIslandsthereissolittleinternalcommerce，thathardlyanythinghasaknownorsettledrate。Thepriceofthingsbroughtin，orcarriedout，istobeconsideredasthatofaforeignmarket；andeventhisthereissomedifficultyindiscovering，becausetheirdenominationsofquantityaredifferentfromours；andwhenthereisignoranceonbothsides，noappealcanbemadetoacommonmeasure。
This，however，isnottheonlyimpediment。TheScots，withavigilanceofjealousywhichnevergoestosleep，alwayssuspectthatanEnglishmandespisesthemfortheirpoverty，andtoconvincehimthattheyarenotlessrichthantheirneighbours，aresuretotellhimapricehigherthanthetrue。WhenLesley，twohundredyearsago，relatedsopunctiliously，thatahundredheneggs，newlaid，weresoldintheIslandsforapeny，hesupposedthatnoinferencecouldpossiblyfollow，butthateggswereingreatabundance。Posterityhassincegrownwiser；andhavinglearned，thatnominalandrealvaluemaydiffer，theynowtellnosuchstories，lesttheforeignershouldhappentocollect，notthateggsaremany，butthatpencearefew。
Moneyandwealthhavebytheuseofcommerciallanguagebeensolongconfounded，thattheyarecommonlysupposedtobethesame；
andthisprejudicehasspreadsowidelyinScotland，thatIknownotwhetherIfoundmanorwoman，whomIinterrogatedconcerningpaymentsofmoney，thatcouldsurmounttheilliberaldesireofdeceivingme，byrepresentingeverythingasdearerthanitis。
FromLochbuywerodeaveryfewmilestothesideofMull，whichfacesScotland，where，havingtakenleaveofourkindprotector，SirAllan，weembarkedinaboat，inwhichtheseatprovidedforouraccommodationwasaheapofroughbrushwood；andonthetwenty-
secondofOctoberreposedatatolerableinnonthemainland。
Onthenextdaywebeganourjourneysouthwards。Theweatherwastempestuous。Forhalfthedaythegroundwasrough，andourhorseswerestillsmall。Hadtheyrequiredmuchrestraint，wemighthavebeenreducedtodifficulties；forIthinkwehadamongstusbutonebridle。Wefedthepooranimalsliberally，andtheyperformedtheirjourneywell。Inthelatterpartoftheday，wecametoafirmandsmoothroad，madebythesoldiers，onwhichwetravelledwithgreatsecurity，busiedwithcontemplatingthesceneaboutus。
Thenightcameonwhilewehadyetagreatpartofthewaytogo，thoughnotsodark，butthatwecoulddiscernthecataractswhichpoureddownthehills，ononeside，andfellintoonegeneralchannelthatranwithgreatviolenceontheother。Thewindwasloud，therainwasheavy，andthewhistlingoftheblast，thefalloftheshower，therushofthecataracts，andtheroarofthetorrent，madeanoblerchorusoftheroughmusickofnaturethanithadeverbeenmychancetohearbefore。Thestreams，whichrancrossthewayfromthehillstothemaincurrent，weresofrequent，thatafterawhileIbegantocountthem；and，intenmiles，reckonedfifty-five，probablymissingsome，andhavingletsomepassbeforetheyforcedthemselvesuponmynotice。AtlastwecametoInverary，wherewefoundaninn，notonlycommodious，butmagnificent。
Thedifficultiesofperegrinationwerenowatanend。Mr。BoswellhadthehonourofbeingknowntotheDukeofArgyle，bywhomwewereverykindlyentertainedathissplendidseat，andsuppliedwithconveniencesforsurveyinghisspaciousparkandrisingforests。
AftertwodaysstayatInveraryweproceededSouthwardoverGlencroe，ablackanddrearyregion，nowmadeeasilypassablebyamilitaryroad，whichrisesfromeitherendoftheglenbyanacclivitynotdangerouslysteep，butsufficientlylaborious。Inthemiddle，atthetopofthehill，isaseatwiththisinscription，\'Rest，andbethankful。\'Stoneswereplacedtomarkthedistances，whichtheinhabitantshavetakenaway，resolved，theysaid，\'tohavenonewmiles。\'
Inthisrainyseasonthehillsstreamedwithwaterfalls，which，crossingtheway，formedcurrentsontheotherside，thatranincontrarydirectionsastheyfelltothenorthorsouthofthesummit。Being，bythefavouroftheDuke，wellmounted，Iwentupanddownthehillwithgreatconvenience。
FromGlencroewepassedthroughapleasantcountrytothebanksofLochLomond，andwerereceivedatthehouseofSirJamesColquhoun，whoisownerofalmostallthethirtyislandsoftheLoch，whichwewentinaboatnextmorningtosurvey。Theheavinessoftherainshortenedourvoyage，butwelandedononeislandplantedwithyew，andstockedwithdeer，andonanothercontainingperhapsnotmorethanhalfanacre，remarkablefortheruinsofanoldcastle，onwhichtheospreybuildsherannualnest。HadLochLomondbeeninahappierclimate，itwouldhavebeentheboastofwealthandvanitytoownoneofthelittlespotswhichitincloses，andtohaveemployeduponitalltheartsofembellishment。Butasitis，theislets，whichcourtthegazeratadistance，disgusthimathisapproach，whenhefinds，insteadofsoftlawns；andshadythickets，nothingmorethanuncultivatedruggedness。
WheretheLochdischargesitselfintoariver，calledtheLeven，wepassedanightwithMr。Smollet，arelationofDoctorSmollet，towhosememoryhehasraisedanobeliskonthebanknearthehouseinwhichhewasborn。Thecivilityandrespectwhichwefoundateveryplace，itisungratefultoomit，andtedioustorepeat。Hereweweremetbyapost-chaise，thatconveyedustoGlasgow。
TodescribeacitysomuchfrequentedasGlasgow，isunnecessary。
Theprosperityofitscommerceappearsbythegreatnessofmanyprivatehouses，andageneralappearanceofwealth。ItistheonlyepiscopalcitywhosecathedralwasleftstandingintherageofReformation。Itisnowdividedintomanyseparateplacesofworship，which，takenalltogether，composeagreatpile，thathadbeensomecenturiesinbuilding，butwasneverfinished；forthechangeofreligionintercepteditsprogress，beforethecrossislewasadded，whichseemsessentialtoaGothickcathedral。
Thecollegehasnothadasufficientshareoftheincreasingmagnificenceoftheplace。Thesessionwasbegun；foritcommencesonthetenthofOctoberandcontinuestothetenthofJune，butthestudentsappearednotnumerous，being，Isuppose，notyetreturnedfromtheirseveralhomes。Thedivisionoftheacademicalyearintoonesession，andonerecess，seemstomebetteraccommodatedtothepresentstateoflife，thanthatvariegationoftimebytermsandvacationsderivedfromdistantcenturies，inwhichitwasprobablyconvenient，andstillcontinuedintheEnglishuniversities。SomanysolidmonthsastheScotchschemeofeducationjoinstogether，allowandencourageaplanforeachpartoftheyear；butwithus，hethathassettledhimselftostudyinthecollegeissoontemptedintothecountry，andhethathasadjustedhislifeinthecountry，issummonedbacktohiscollege。
YetwhenIhaveallowedtotheuniversitiesofScotlandamorerationaldistributionoftime，Ihavegiventhem，sofarasmyinquirieshaveinformedme，allthattheycanclaim。Thestudents，forthemostpart，gothitherboys，anddepartbeforetheyaremen；
theycarrywiththemlittlefundamentalknowledge，andthereforethesuperstructurecannotbelofty。Thegrammarschoolsarenotgenerallywellsupplied；forthecharacterofaschool-masterbeingtherelesshonourablethaninEngland，isseldomacceptedbymenwhoarecapabletoadornit，andwheretheschoolhasbeendeficient，thecollegecaneffectlittle。
MenbredintheuniversitiesofScotlandcannotbeexpectedtobeoftendecoratedwiththesplendoursofornamentalerudition，buttheyobtainamediocrityofknowledge，betweenlearningandignorance，notinadequatetothepurposesofcommonlife，whichis，Ibelieve，verywidelydiffusedamongthem，andwhichcountenancedingeneralbyanationalcombinationsoinvidious，thattheirfriendscannotdefendit，andactuatedinparticularsbyaspiritofenterprise，sovigorous，thattheirenemiesareconstrainedtopraiseit，enablesthemtofind，ortomaketheirwaytoemployment，riches，anddistinction。
FromGlasgowwedirectedourcoursetoAuchinleck，anestatedevolved，throughalongseriesofancestors，toMr。Boswell\'sfather，thepresentpossessor。Inourwaywefoundseveralplacesremarkableenoughinthemselves，butalreadydescribedbythosewhoviewedthematmoreleisure，orwithmuchmoreskill；andstoppedtwodaysatMr。Campbell\'s，agentlemanmarriedtoMr。Boswell\'ssister。
Auchinleck，whichsignifiesastonyfield，seemsnotnowtohaveanyparticularclaimtoitsdenomination。Itisadistrictgenerallylevel，andsufficientlyfertile，butlikealltheWesternsideofScotland，incommodedbyveryfrequentrain。Itwas，withtherestofthecountry，generallynaked，tillthepresentpossessorfinding，bythegrowthofsomestatelytreesnearhisoldcastle，thatthegroundwasfavourableenoughtotimber，adorneditverydiligentlywithannualplantations。
LordAuchinleck，whoisoneoftheJudgesofScotland，andthereforenotwhollyatleisurefordomestickbusinessorpleasure，hasyetfoundtimetomakeimprovementsinhispatrimony。Hehasbuiltahouseofhewnstone，verystately，anddurable，andhasadvancedthevalueofhislandswithgreattendernesstohistenants。
Iwas，however，lessdelightedwiththeeleganceofthemodernmansion，thanwiththesullendignityoftheoldcastle。I
clamberedwithMr。Boswellamongtheruins，whichaffordstrikingimagesofancientlife。Itis，likeothercastles，builtuponapointofrock，andwas，Ibelieve，ancientlysurroundedwithamoat。Thereisanotherrocknearit，towhichthedrawbridge，whenitwasletdown，issaidtohavereached。Here，intheagesoftumultandrapine，theLairdwassurprisedandkilledbytheneighbouringChief，whoperhapsmighthaveextinguishedthefamily，hadhenotinafewdaysbeenseizedandhanged，togetherwithhissons，byDouglas，whocamewithhisforcestothereliefofAuchinleck。
Atnogreatdistancefromthehouserunsapleasingbrook，byaredrock，outofwhichhasbeenhewnaveryagreeableandcommodioussummer-house，atlessexpence，asLordAuchinlecktoldme，thanwouldhavebeenrequiredtobuildaroomofthesamedimensions。
Therockseemstohavenomoredampnessthananyotherwall。Suchopportunitiesofvarietyitisjudiciousnottoneglect。
WenowreturnedtoEdinburgh，whereIpassedsomedayswithmenoflearning，whosenameswantnoadvancementfrommycommemoration，orwithwomenofelegance，whichperhapsdisclaimsapedant\'spraise。
TheconversationoftheScotsgrowseverydaylessunpleasingtotheEnglish；theirpeculiaritieswearfastaway；theirdialectislikelytobecomeinhalfacenturyprovincialandrustick，eventothemselves。Thegreat，thelearned，theambitious，andthevain，allcultivatetheEnglishphrase，andtheEnglishpronunciation，andinsplendidcompaniesScotchisnotmuchheard，exceptnowandthenfromanoldLady。
ThereisonesubjectofphilosophicalcuriositytobefoundinEdinburgh，whichnoothercityhastoshew；acollegeofthedeafanddumb，whoaretaughttospeak，toread，towrite，andtopracticearithmetick，byagentleman，whosenameisBraidwood。Thenumberwhichattendshimis，Ithink，abouttwelve，whichhebringstogetherintoalittleschool，andinstructsaccordingtotheirseveraldegreesofproficiency。
Idonotmeantomentiontheinstructionofthedeafasnew。
HavingbeenfirstpractiseduponthesonofaconstableofSpain，itwasafterwardscultivatedwithmuchemulationinEngland，byWallisandHolder，andwaslatelyprofessedbyMr。Baker，whoonceflatteredmewithhopesofseeinghismethodpublished。Howfaranyformerteachershavesucceeded，itisnoteasytoknow；theimprovementofMr。Braidwood\'spupilsiswonderful。Theynotonlyspeak，write，andunderstandwhatiswritten，butifhethatspeakslookstowardsthem，andmodifieshisorgansbydistinctandfullutterance，theyknowsowellwhatisspoken，thatitisanexpressionscarcelyfigurativetosay，theyhearwiththeeye。
ThatanyhaveattainedtothepowermentionedbyBurnet，offeelingsounds，bylayingahandonthespeaker\'smouth，Iknownot；butI
haveseensomuch，thatIcanbelievemore；asingleword，orashortsentence，Ithink，maypossiblybesodistinguished。
Itwillreadilybesupposedbythosethatconsiderthissubject，thatMr。Braidwood\'sscholarsspellaccurately。Orthographyisvitiatedamongsuchaslearnfirsttospeak，andthentowrite，byimperfectnotionsoftherelationbetweenlettersandvocalutterance；buttothosestudentseverycharacterisofequalimportance；forlettersaretothemnotsymbolsofnames，butofthings；whentheywritetheydonotrepresentasound，butdelineateaform。
ThisschoolIvisited，andfoundsomeofthescholarswaitingfortheirmaster，whomtheyaresaidtoreceiveathisentrancewithsmilingcountenancesandsparklingeyes，delightedwiththehopeofnewideas。OneoftheyoungLadieshadherslatebeforeher，onwhichIwroteaquestionconsistingofthreefigures，tobemultipliedbytwofigures。Shelookeduponit，andquiveringherfingersinamannerwhichIthoughtverypretty，butofwhichI
knownotwhetheritwasartorplay，multipliedthesumregularlyintwolines，observingthedecimalplace；butdidnotaddthetwolinestogether，probablydisdainingsoeasyanoperation。I
pointedattheplacewherethesumtotalshouldstand，andshenoteditwithsuchexpeditionasseemedtoshewthatshehaditonlytowrite。
Itwaspleasingtoseeoneofthemostdesperateofhumancalamitiescapableofsomuchhelp；whateverenlargeshope，willexaltcourage；afterhavingseenthedeaftaughtarithmetick，whowouldbeafraidtocultivatetheHebrides?
Sucharethethingswhichthisjourneyhasgivenmeanopportunityofseeing，andsucharethereflectionswhichthatsighthasraised。Havingpassedmytimealmostwhollyincities，Imayhavebeensurprisedbymodesoflifeandappearancesofnature，thatarefamiliartomenofwidersurveyandmorevariedconversation。
Noveltyandignorancemustalwaysbereciprocal，andIcannotbutbeconsciousthatmythoughtsonnationalmanners，arethethoughtsofonewhohasseenbutlittle。