第1章

MONDAY-Itwas,ifIrememberrightly,fiveo\'clockwhenwewereallsignalledtobepresentattheFerryDepotoftherailroad。AnemigrantshiphadarrivedatNewYorkontheSaturdaynight,anotherontheSundaymorning,ourownonSundayafternoon,afourthearlyonMonday;andasthereisnoemigranttrainonSundayagreatpartofthepassengersfromthesefourshipswasconcentratedonthetrainbywhichIwastotravel。Therewasababelofbewilderedmen,women,andchildren。Thewretchedlittlebooking-office,andthebaggage-room,whichwasnotmuchlarger,werecrowdedthickwithemigrants,andwereheavyandrankwiththeatmosphereofdrippingclothes。Opencartsfullofbeddingstoodbythehalf-hourintherain。Theofficialsloadedeachotherwithrecriminations。Abearded,mildewedlittleman,whomItaketohavebeenanemigrantagent,wasallovertheplace,hismouthfullofbrimstone,blusteringandinterfering。Itwasplainthatthewholesystem,ifsystemtherewas,hadutterlybrokendownunderthestrainofsomanypassengers。

Myownticketwasgivenmeatonce,andanoldishman,whopreservedhisheadinthemidstofthisturmoil,gotmybaggageregistered,andcounselledmetostayquietlywhereIwastillheshouldgivemethewordtomove。Ihadtakenalongwithmeasmallvalise,aknapsack,whichIcarriedonmyshoulders,andinthebagofmyrailwayrugthewholeofBANCROFT\'SHISTORYOFTHEUNITED

STATES,insixfatvolumes。ItwasasmuchasIcouldcarrywithconvenienceevenforshortdistances,butitinsuredmeplentyofclothing,andthevalisewasatthatmoment,andoftenafter,usefulforastool。IamsureIsatforanhourinthebaggage-

room,andwretchedenoughitwas;yet,whenatlastthewordwaspassedtomeandIpickedupmybundlesandgotunderway,itwasonlytoexchangediscomfortfordownrightmiseryanddanger。

IfollowedtheportersintoalongshedreachingdownhillfromWestStreettotheriver。Itwasdark,thewindblewcleanthroughitfromendtoend;andhereIfoundagreatblockofpassengersandbaggage,hundredsofoneandtonsoftheother。IfeelIshallhaveadifficultytomakemyselfbelieved;andcertainlythescenemusthavebeenexceptional,foritwastoodangerousfordailyrepetition。Itwasatightjam;therewasnofairwaythroughthemingledmassofbruteandlivingobstruction。Intotheupperskirtsofthecrowdporters,infuriatedbyhurryandoverwork,clovetheirwaywithshouts。Imaysaythatwestoodlikesheep,andthattheporterschargedamonguslikesomanymaddenedsheep-

dogs;andIbelievethesemenwerenolongeranswerablefortheiracts。Itmatterednotwhattheywerecarrying,theydrovestraightintothepress,andwhentheycouldgetnofarther,blindlydischargedtheirbarrowful。Withmyownhand,forinstance,I

savedthelifeofachildasitsatuponitsmother\'sknee,shesittingonabox;andsinceIheardofnoaccident,Imustsupposethatthereweremanysimilarinterpositionsinthecourseoftheevening。ItwillgivesomeideaofthestateofmindtowhichwewerereducedifItellyouthatneithertheporternorthemotherofthechildpaidtheleastattentiontomyact。ItwasnottillsometimeafterthatIunderstoodwhatIhaddonemyself,fortowardoffheavyboxesseemedatthemomentanaturalincidentofhumanlife。Cold,wet,clamour,deadoppositiontoprogress,suchasoneencountersinanevildream,hadutterlydauntedthespirits。Wehadacceptedthispurgatoryasachildacceptstheconditionsoftheworld。Formypart,Ishiveredalittle,andmybackachedwearily;butIbelieveIhadneitherahopenorafear,andalltheactivitiesofmynaturehadbecometributarytoonemassivesensationofdiscomfort。

Atlength,andafterhowlonganintervalIhesitatetoguess,thecrowdbegantomove,heavilystrainingthroughitself。Aboutthesametimesomelampswerelighted,andthrewasuddenflareovertheshed。WewerebeingfilteredoutintotheriverboatforJerseyCity。Youmayimaginehowslowlythisfilteringproceeded,throughthedense,chokingcrush,everyoneoverladenwithpackagesorchildren,andyetunderthenecessityoffishingouthisticketbytheway;butitendedatlengthforme,andIfoundmyselfondeckunderaflimsyawningandwithatrifleofelbow-roomtostretchandbreathein。Thiswasonthestarboard;forthebulkoftheemigrantsstuckhopelesslyontheportside,bywhichwehadentered。Invaintheseamenshoutedtothemtomoveon,andthreatenedthemwithshipwreck。

Thesepoorpeoplewereunderaspellofstupor,anddidnotstirafoot。Itrainedasheavilyasever,butthewindnowcameinsuddenclapsandcapfuls,notwithoutdangertoaboatsobadlyballastedasours;andwecreptovertheriverinthedarkness,trailingonepaddleinthewaterlikeawoundedduck,andpassedeverandagainbyhuge,illuminatedsteamersrunningmanyknots,andheraldingtheirapproachbystrainsofmusic。Thecontrastbetweenthesepleasureembarkationsandourowngrimvessel,withherlisttoportandherfreightofwetandsilentemigrants,wasofthatglaringdescriptionwhichwecounttooobviousforthepurposesofart。

ThelandingatJerseyCitywasdoneinastampede。Ihadafixedsenseofcalamity,andtojudgebyconduct,thesamepersuasionwascommontousall。Apanicselfishness,likethatproducedbyfear,presidedoverthedisorderofourlanding。Peoplepushed,andelbowed,andran,theirfamiliesfollowinghowtheycould。

Childrenfell,andwerepickeduptoberewardedbyablow。Onechild,whohadlostherparents,screamedsteadilyandwithincreasingshrillness,asthoughvergingtowardsafit;anofficialkeptherbyhim,butnooneelseseemedsomuchastoremarkherdistress;andIamashamedtosaythatIranamongtherest。IwassowearythatIhadtwicetomakeahaltandsetdownmybundlesinthehundredyardsorsobetweenthepierandtherailwaystation,sothatIwasquitewetbythetimethatIgotundercover。Therewasnowaiting-room,norefreshmentroom;thecarswerelocked;andforatleastanotherhour,orsoitseemed,wehadtocampuponthedraughty,gaslitplatform。Isatonmyvalise,toocrushedtoobservemyneighbours;butastheywereallcold,andwet,andweary,anddrivenstupidlycrazybythemismanagementtowhichwehadbeensubjected,Ibelievetheycanhavebeennohappierthanmyself。Iboughthalf-a-dozenorangesfromaboy,fororangesandnutsweretheonlyrefectiontobehad。Asonlytwoofthemhadevenapretenceofjuice,Ithrewtheotherfourunderthecars,andbeheld,asinadream,grownpeopleandchildrengropingonthetrackaftermyleavings。

Atlastwewereadmittedintothecars,utterlydejected,andfarfromdry。Formyownpart,Igotoutaclothes-brush,andbrushedmytrousersashardasIcouldtillIhaddriedthemandwarmedmybloodintothebargain;butnooneelse,exceptmynextneighbourtowhomIlentthebrush,appearedtotaketheleastprecaution。

Astheywere,theycomposedthemselvestosleep。IhadseenthelightsofPhiladelphia,andbeentwiceorderedtochangecarriagesandtwicecountermanded,beforeIallowedmyselftofollowtheirexample。

TUESDAY-WhenIawoke,itwasalreadyday;thetrainwasstandingidle;Iwasinthelastcarriage,and,seeingsomeothersstrollingtoandfroaboutthelines,Iopenedthedoorandsteppedforth,asfromacaravanbythewayside。Wewerenearnostation,noreven,asfarasIcouldsee,withinreachofanysignal。Agreen,open,undulatingcountrystretchedawayuponallsides。LocusttreesandasinglefieldofIndiancorngaveitaforeigngraceandinterest;

butthecontoursofthelandweresoftandEnglish。ItwasnotquiteEngland,neitherwasitquiteFrance;yetlikeenougheithertoseemnaturalinmyeyes。Anditwasinthesky,andnotupontheearth,thatIwassurprisedtofindachange。Explainithowyoumay,andformypartIcannotexplainitatall,thesunriseswithadifferentsplendourinAmericaandEurope。Thereismorecleargoldandscarletinouroldcountrymornings;morepurple,brown,andsmokyorangeinthoseofthenew。Itmaybefromhabit,buttomethecomingofdayislessfreshandinspiritinginthelatter;ithasaduskierglory,andmorenearlyresemblessunset;

itseemstofitsomesubsequential,eveningepochoftheworld,asthoughAmericawereinfact,andnotmerelyinfancy,fartherfromtheorientofAuroraandthespringsofday。Ithoughtsothen,bytherailroadsideinPennsylvania,andIhavethoughtsoadozentimessinceinfardistantpartsofthecontinent。Ifitbeanillusionitisoneverydeeplyrooted,andinwhichmyeyesightisaccomplice。

Soonafteratrainwhiskedby,announcingandaccompanyingitspassagebytheswiftbeatingofasortofchapelbellupontheengine;andasitwasforthiswehadbeenwaiting,weweresummonedbythecryof\"Allaboard!\"andwentonagainuponourway。Thewholeline,itappeared,wastopsy-turvy;anaccidentatmidnighthavingthrownallthetraffichoursintoarrear。Wepaidforthisintheflesh,forwehadnomealsallthatday。Fruitwecouldbuyuponthecars;andnowandthenwehadafewminutesatsomestationwithameagreshowofrollsandsandwichesforsale;

butweweresomanyandsoravenousthat,thoughItriedateveryopportunity,thecoffeewasalwaysexhaustedbeforeIcouldelbowmywaytothecounter。

OurAmericansunrisehadusheredinanoblesummer\'sday。Therewasnotacloud;thesunshinewasbaking;yetinthewoodyrivervalleysamongwhichwewoundourway,theatmospherepreservedasparklingfreshnesstilllateintheafternoon。Ithadaninlandsweetnessandvarietytoonenewlyfromthesea;itsmeltofwoods,rivers,andthedelvedearth。These,thoughinsofaracountry,wereairsfromhome。Istoodontheplatformbythehour;andasI

saw,oneafteranother,pleasantvillages,cartsuponthehighwayandfishersbythestream,andheardcockcrowsandcheeryvoicesinthedistance,andbeheldthesun,nolongershiningblanklyontheplainsofocean,butstrikingamongshapelyhillsandhislightdispersedandcolouredbyathousandaccidentsofformandsurface,Ibegantoexultwithmyselfuponthisriseinlifelikeamanwhohadcomeintoarichestate。AndwhenIhadaskedthenameofariverfromthebrakesman,andheardthatitwascalledtheSusquehanna,thebeautyofthenameseemedtobepartandparcelofthebeautyoftheland。AswhenAdamwithdivinefitnessnamedthecreatures,sothiswordSusquehannawasatonceacceptedbythefancy。Thatwasthename,asnoothercouldbe,forthatshiningriveranddesirablevalley。

Nonecancareforliteratureinitselfwhodonottakeaspecialpleasureinthesoundofnames;andthereisnopartoftheworldwherenomenclatureissorich,poetical,humorous,andpicturesqueastheUnitedStatesofAmerica。Alltimes,races,andlanguageshavebroughttheircontribution。PekinisinthesameStatewithEuclid,withBellefontaine,andwithSandusky。Chelsea,withitsLondonassociationsofredbrick,SloaneSquare,andtheKing\'sRoad,isownsuburbtostatelyandprimevalMemphis;theretheyhavetheirseat,translatednamesofcities,wheretheMississippirunsbyTennesseeandArkansas;andboth,whileIwascrossingthecontinent,lay,watchedbyarmedmen,inthehorrorandisolationofaplague。Old,redManhattanlies,likeanIndianarrowheadunderasteamfactory,belowanglifiedNewYork。ThenamesoftheStatesandTerritoriesthemselvesformachorusofsweetandmostromanticvocables:Delaware,Ohio,Indiana,Florida,Dakota,Iowa,Wyoming,Minnesota,andtheCarolinas;therearefewpoemswithanoblermusicfortheear:asongful,tunefulland;andifthenewHomershallarisefromtheWesterncontinent,hisversewillbeenriched,hispagessingspontaneously,withthenamesofstatesandcitiesthatwouldstrikethefancyinabusinesscircular。

Lateintheeveningwewerelandedinawaiting-roomatPittsburg。

IhadnowundermychargeayoungandsprightlyDutchwidowwithherchildren;theseIwastowatchoverprovidentiallyforacertaindistancefartherontheway;butasIfoundshewasfurnishedwithabasketofeatables,Ileftherinthewaiting-roomtoseekadinnerformyself。Imentionthismeal,notonlybecauseitwasthefirstofwhichIhadpartakenforaboutthirtyhours,butbecauseitwasthemeansofmyfirstintroductiontoacolouredgentleman。Hedidmethehonourtowaituponmeafterafashion,whileIwaseating;andwitheveryword,look,andgesturemarchedmefartherintothecountryofsurprise。HewasindeedstrikinglyunlikethenegroesofMrs。BeecherStowe,ortheChristyMinstrelsofmyyouth。Imagineagentleman,certainlysomewhatdark,butofapleasantwarmhue,speakingEnglishwithaslightandratheroddforeignaccent,everyinchamanoftheworld,andarmedwithmannerssopatronisinglysuperiorthatIamatalosstonametheirparallelinEngland。Abutlerperhapsridesashighovertheunbutlered,butthenhesetsyourightwithareserveandasortofsighingpatiencewhichoneisoftenmovedtoadmire。Andagain,theabstractbutlerneverstoopstofamiliarity。

Butthecolouredgentlemanwillpassyouawinkatatime;heisfamiliarlikeanupperformboytoafag;heunbendstoyoulikePrinceHalwithPoinsandFalstaff。Hemakeshimselfathomeandwelcome。Indeed,Imaysay,thiswaiterbehavedhimselftomethroughoutthatsuppermuchas,withus,ayoung,free,andnotveryself-respectingmastermightbehavetoagood-lookingchambermaid。Ihadcomepreparedtopitythepoornegro,toputhimathisease,toproveinathousandcondescensionsthatIwasnosharerintheprejudiceofrace;butIassureyouIputmypatronageawayforanotheroccasion,andhadthegracetobepleasedwiththatresult。

Seeinghewasaveryhonestfellow,Iconsultedhimuponapointofetiquette:ifoneshouldoffertotiptheAmericanwaiter?

Certainlynot,hetoldme。Never。Itwouldnotdo。Theyconsideredthemselvestoohighlytoaccept。Theywouldevenresenttheoffer。Asforhimandme,wehadenjoyedaverypleasantconversation;he,inparticular,hadfoundmuchpleasureinmysociety;Iwasastranger;thiswasexactlyoneofthoserareconjunctures……Withoutbeingveryclearseeing,Icanstillperceivethesunatnoonday;andthecolouredgentlemandeftlypocketedaquarter。

WEDNESDAY-AlittleaftermidnightIconvoyedmywidowandorphansonboardthetrain;andmorningfoundusfarintoOhio。

Thishadearlybeenafavouritehomeofmyimagination;IhaveplayedatbeinginOhiobytheweek,andenjoyedsomecapitalsporttherewithadummygun,mypersonbeingstillunbreeched。MypreferencewasfoundedonaworkwhichappearedinCASSELL\'SFAMILY

PAPER,andwasreadaloudtomebymynurse。ItnarratedthedoingsofoneCustaloga,anIndianbrave,who,inthelastchapter,veryobliginglywashedthepaintoffhisfaceandbecameSirReginaldSomebody-or-other;atrickIneverforgavehim。TheideaofamanbeinganIndianbrave,andthengivingthatuptobeabaronet,wasonewhichmymindrejected。Itoffendedverisimilitude,likethepretendedanxietyofRobinsonCrusoeandotherstoescapefromuninhabitedislands。

ButOhiowasnotatallasIhadpicturedit。WewerenowonthosegreatplainswhichstretchunbrokentotheRockyMountains。ThecountrywasflatlikeHolland,butfarfrombeingdull。AllthroughOhio,Indiana,Illinois,andIowa,orforasmuchasIsawofthemfromthetrainandinmywakingmoments,itwasrichandvarious,andbreathedanelegancepeculiartoitself。Thetallcornpleasedtheeye;thetreesweregracefulinthemselves,andframedtheplainintolong,aerialvistas;andtheclean,bright,gardenedtownshipsspokeofcountryfareandpleasantsummereveningsonthestoop。Itwasasortofflatparadise;but,Iamafraid,notunfrequentedbythedevil。

ThatmorningdawnedwithsuchafreezingchillasIhaverarelyfelt;achillthatwasnotperhapssomeasurablebyinstrument,asitstruckhomeupontheheartandseemedtotravelwiththeblood。Daycameinwithashudder。Whitemistslaythinlyoverthesurfaceoftheplain,asweseethemmoreoftenonalake;andthoughthesunhadsoondispersedanddrunkthemup,leavinganatmosphereoffeverheatandcrystalpurenessfromhorizontohorizon,themistshadstillbeenthere,andweknewthatthisparadisewashauntedbykillingdampsandfoulmalaria。Thefencesalongthelineborebuttwodescriptionsofadvertisement;onetorecommendtobaccos,andtheothertovauntremediesagainsttheague。Atthepointofday,andwhilewewereallinthegraspofthatfirstchill,anativeofthestate,whohadgotinatsomewaystation,pronouncedit,withadoctoralair,\"afeverandaguemorning。\"

TheDutchwidowwasapersonofsomecharacter。Shehadconceivedatfirstsightagreataversionforthepresentwriter,whichshewasatnopainstoconceal。Butbeingawomanofapracticalspirit,shemadenodifficultyaboutacceptingmyattentions,andencouragedmetobuyherchildrenfruitsandcandies,tocarryallherparcels,andeventosleepuponthefloorthatshemightprofitbymyemptyseat。Nay,shewassucharattlebynature,and,sopowerfullymovedtoautobiographicaltalk,thatshewasforced,forwantofabetter,totakemeintoconfidenceandtellmethestoryofherlife。Iheardaboutherlatehusband,whoseemedtohavemadehischiefimpressionbytakingheroutpleasuringonSundays。

Icouldtellyouherprospects,herhopes,theamountofherfortune,thecostofherhousekeepingbytheweek,andavarietyofparticularmattersthatarenotusuallydisclosedexcepttofriends。Atonestation,sheshookupherchildrentolookatamanontheplatformandsayifhewerenotlikeMr。Z。;whiletomesheexplainedhowshehadbeenkeepingcompanywiththisMr。Z。,howfarmattershadproceeded,andhowitwasbecauseofhisdesistancethatshewasnowtravellingtotheWest。Then,whenI

wasthusputinpossessionofthefacts,sheaskedmyjudgmentonthattypeofmanlybeauty。Iadmiredittoherheart\'scontent。

Shewasnot,Ithink,remarkablyveraciousintalk,butbroideredasfancyprompted,andbuiltcastlesintheairoutofherpast;

yetshehadthatsortofcandour,tokeepme,inspiteofalltheseconfidences,steadilyawareofheraversion。Herpartingwordswereingeniouslyhonest。\"Iamsure,\"saidshe,\"weallOUGHTtobeverymuchobligedtoyou。\"Icannotpretendthatsheputmeatmyease;butIhadacertainrespectforsuchagenuinedislike。A

poornaturewouldhaveslipped,inthecourseofthesefamiliarities,intoasortofworthlesstolerationforme。

WereachedChicagointheevening。Iwasturnedoutofthecars,bundledintoanomnibus,anddrivenoffthroughthestreetstothestationofadifferentrailroad。Chicagoseemedagreatandgloomycity。Irememberhavingsubscribed,letussaysixpence,towardsitsrestorationattheperiodofthefire;andnowwhenIbeheldstreetafterstreetofponderoushousesandcrowdsofcomfortableburghers,Ithoughtitwouldbeagracefulactforthecorporationtorefundthatsixpence,or,attheleast,toentertainmetoacheerfuldinner。Buttherewasnowordofrestitution。Iwasthatcity\'sbenefactor,yetIwasreceivedinathird-classwaiting-

room,andthebestdinnerIcouldgetwasadishofhamandeggsatmyownexpense。

Icansafelysay,Ihaveneverbeensodog-tiredasthatnightinChicago。Whenitwastimetostart,Idescendedtheplatformlikeamaninadream。Itwasalongtrain,lightedfromendtoend;

andcaraftercar,asIcameupwithit,wasnotonlyfilledbutoverflowing。Myvalise,myknapsack,myrug,withthosesixponderoustomesofBancroft,weighedmedouble;Iwashot,feverish,painfullyathirst;andtherewasagreatdarknessoverme,aninternaldarkness,nottobedispelledbygas。WhenatlastIfoundanemptybench,Isankintoitlikeabundleofrags,theworldseemedtoswimawayintothedistance,andmyconsciousnessdwindledwithinmetoamerepin\'shead,likeataperonafoggynight。

WhenIcamealittlemoretomyself,Ifoundthattherehadsatdownbesidemeaverycheerful,rosylittleGermangentleman,somewhatgoneindrink,whowastalkingawaytome,nineteentothedozen,astheysay。Ididmybesttokeepuptheconversation;foritseemedtomedimlyasifsomethingdependeduponthat。Iheardhimrelate,amongmanyotherthings,thattherewerepickpocketsonthetrain,whohadalreadyrobbedamanoffortydollarsandareturnticket;butthoughIcaughtthewords,IdonotthinkI

properlyunderstoodthesenseuntilnextmorning;andIbelieveI

repliedatthetimethatIwasverygladtohearit。WhatelsehetalkedaboutIhavenoguess;Irememberagabblingsoundofwords,hisprofusegesticulation,andhissmile,whichwashighlyexplanatory:butnomore。AndIsupposeImusthaveshownmyconfusionveryplainly;for,first,Isawhimknithisbrowsatmelikeonewhohasconceivedadoubt;next,hetriedmeinGerman,supposingperhapsthatIwasunfamiliarwiththeEnglishtongue;

andfinally,indespair,heroseandleftme。Ifeltchagrined;

butmyfatiguewastoocrushingfordelay,and,stretchingmyselfasfarasthatwaspossibleuponthebench,Iwasreceivedatonceintoadreamlessstupor。

ThelittleGermangentlemanwasonlygoingalittlewayintothesuburbsafteraDINERFIN,andwasbentonentertainmentwhilethejourneylasted。Havingfailedwithme,hepitchednextuponanotheremigrant,whohadcomethroughfromCanada,andwasnotonejotlesswearythanmyself。Nay,eveninanaturalstate,asI

foundnextmorningwhenwescrapedacquaintance,hewasaheavy,uncommunicativeman。Aftertryinghimondifferenttopics,itappearsthatthelittleGermangentlemanflouncedintoatemper,sworeanoathortwo,anddepartedfromthatcarinquestofliveliersociety。Poorlittlegentleman!Isupposehethoughtanemigrantshouldbearollicking,free-heartedblade,withaflaskofforeignbrandyandalong,comicalstorytobeguilethemomentsofdigestion。

THURSDAY-Isupposetheremustbeacycleinthefatigueoftravelling,forwhenIawokenextmorning,Iwasentirelyrenewedinspiritsandateaheartybreakfastofporridge,withsweetmilk,andcoffeeandhotcakes,atBurlingtonupontheMississippi。

Anotherlongday\'sridefollowed,withbutonefeatureworthyofremark。AtaplacecalledCreston,adrunkenmangotin。Hewasaggressivelyfriendly,but,accordingtoEnglishnotions,notatallunpresentableuponatrain。Foronestageheeludedthenoticeoftheofficials;butjustaswewerebeginningtomoveoutofthenextstation,Cromwellbyname,bycametheconductor。Therewasawordortwooftalk;andthentheofficialhadthemanbytheshoulders,twitchedhimfromhisseat,marchedhimthroughthecar,andsenthimflyingontothetrack。Itwasdoneinthreemotions,asexactasapieceofdrill。Thetrainwasstillmovingslowly,althoughbeginningtomendherpace,andthedrunkardgothisfeetwithoutafall。Hecarriedaredbundle,thoughnotsoredashischeeks;andheshookthismenacinglyintheairwithonehand,whiletheotherstolebehindhimtotheregionofthekidneys。ItwasthefirstindicationthatIhadcomeamongrevolvers,andI