第9章

Inthefaceofthisplainfactisitnottime,fortheirownsake,thattheAustraliansshoulddroptheircryagainstyellowpeopleandinducetheirParliamenttoabolish,oratleasttomodify,theirimmigrationlawswithregardtotheyellowrace?

Australiansareanxioustoextendtheirtrade,andtheyhavesentcommercialcommissionerstoJapanandotherEasterncountrieswiththeviewtodevelopingandexpandingcommerce。Mr。J。B。Suttor,SpecialCommissionerofNewSouthWales,haspublishedthefollowingadvertisement:

\"NEWSOUTHWALES。TheLandofRewardforCapitalCommerceandIndustry。

SpeciallysubsidizedsteamersnowgivingdirectservicebetweenSydney,THEPREMIERCOMMERCIALCENTEROFAUSTRALIA,ANDSHANGHAI。

ThusofferingspecialfacilitiesforCommerceandTourists。

NEWSOUTHWALESPRODUCTSARESTANDARDSOFEXCELLENCE。\"

Commerceandfriendshipgotogether,buthowAustralianscanexpecttodeveloptradeinacountrywhosepeoplearenotallowedtocometovisithershoresevenforthepurposesoftrade,passesmycomprehension。Perhaps,havingheardsomuchoftheforgivingandmagnanimousspiritoftheChinese,AustraliansexpecttheChinesetogreetthemwithsmilesandtotradewiththem,whilebeingkickedinreturn。

Ibelieveinthedoctrineoftheuniversalbrotherhoodofmen。

Itiscontrarytothelaw(God)ofcreationthatsomepeopleshouldshutoutotherpeoplefromportionsoftheearthsolelyfrommotivesofselfishnessandjealousy;theinjurycausedbysuchselfishactswillsoonerorlaterreactonthedoers。\"Everymanishisownancestor。

Wearepreparingforthedaysthatcome,andwearewhatweareto-dayonaccountofwhathasgonebefore。\"Thedog-in-the-mangerpolicydevelopsdoggishinstinctsinthosewhopractiseit;and,afterall,civilizationwithoutkindnessandjusticeisnotworthhaving。

Inconclusion,IwilllettheEnglishpoet,WilliamWordsworth,state\"Nature\'scase\"。

Listentothesenoblelinesfromtheninthcantoofhis\"Excursion\"。

\"Alas!whatdiffersmorethanmanfromman,Andwhencethatdifference?Whencebutfromhimself?

ForseetheuniversalRaceendowedWiththesameuprightform。ThesunisfixedAndtheinfinitemagnificenceofheavenFixed,withinreachofeveryhumaneye;

Thesleeplessoceanmurmursforallyears;

ThevernalfieldinfusesfreshdelightIntoallhearts。Throughouttheworldofsense,Evenasanobjectissublimeorfair,ThatobjectislaidopentotheviewWithoutreserveorveil;andasapowerIssalutary,oraninfluencesweet,AreeachandallenabledtoperceiveThatpower,thatinfluence,byimpartiallaw,Giftsnoblerarevouchsafedaliketoall;

Reason,and,withthatreason,smilesandtears;

Imagination,freedominthewill;

Consciencetoguideandcheck;anddeathtobeForetasted,immortalityconceivedByall——ablissfulimmortality,TothemwhoseholinessonearthshallmakeTheSpiritcapableofheaven,assured……ThesmokeascendsToHeavenaslightlyfromthecottagehearthAsfromthehaughtiestpalace。HewhosesoulPondersthistrueequality,maywalkThefieldsofearthwithgratitudeandhope;

Yet,inthatmeditation,willhefindMotivetosaddergrief,aswehavefound;

Lamentingancientvirtuesoverthrown,Andfortheinjusticegrieving,thathathmadeSowideadifferencebetweenmanandman。\"

Chapter13。Dinners,Banquets,Etc。

Dinner,asweallknow,indicatesacertainhourandacertainhabitwhoseaimisthenourishmentofthebody,andadeliverancefromhunger;

butinourmoderncivilizedlifeitpossessesotherpurposesalso。

Manisagregariousanimal,andwhenhetakeshisfoodhelikescompany;

fromthispeculiaritytherehassprungupthecustomofdinnerparties。

Inattendingdinnerparties,however,theguestsasaruledonotseeksustenance,theyonlygotothemwhentheyhavenothingelsetodo,andmanyscarcelytouchthefoodthatislaidbeforethem。

Theirobjectistodohonortothehostandhostess,nottoeat,buttobeentertainedbypleasantandcongenialconversation。

Nevertheless,thehost,atwhoseinvitationthecompanyhasassembled,isexpectedtoprovideagreatabundanceandalargevarietyofsavorydishes,aswellasagoodsupplyofchoicewines。Fleshandwineareindispensable,eventhoughtheentertainerseschewbothintheirprivatelife,andmostoftheguestsdailyconsumetoomuchofeach。

Fewhavethecouragetopartwithconventionalpracticeswhenarrangingasocialfunction。

Americanchefsareexcellentcaterers,andwellknowhowtopleasethetastesoftheAmericanpeople。Theyconcentrateontheartofprovidingdaintydishes,andhumaningenuityisheavilytaxedbythemintheireffortstoinventnewgustatorydelicacies。

Thedisheswhichtheyplacebeforeeachguestaresonumerousthatevenagourmandmustleavesomeuntouched。Atafashionabledinnernoonecanpossiblytaste,muchlesseat,everythingthatisplacedbeforehim,yetthefoodisallsonicelycookedandservedinsoappetizingamanner,thatitisdifficulttoresistthetemptationatleasttosampleit;

whenyouhavedonethis,however,youwillcontinueeatinguntilallhasbeenfinished,butyourstomachwillprobablybeasadsufferer,groaninggrievouslyonthefollowingdayonaccountofthefrolicofyourpalate。Thisill-matedpair,althoughbotharechieflyinterestedinfood,seldomseemtoagree。ImustnotomittomentionhoweverthatthenumberofcoursesservedatanAmericanmillionaire\'sdinnerisafteralllessnumerousthanthosefurnishedataChinesefeast。

WhenaChinesegentlemanaskshisfriendstodinewithhimthemenumayincludeanywherefromthirtytofiftyorahundredcourses;

butmanyofthedishesareonlyintendedforshow。Theguestsarenotexpectedtoeateverythingonthetable,oreventotasteeverydelicacy,unless,indeed,theyspeciallydesiretodoso。Again,wedon\'teatsoheartilyasdotheAmericans,butcontentourselveswithoneortwomouthfulsfromeachsetofdishes,andallowappreciableintervalstoelapsebetweencourses,duringwhichwemakemerry,smoke,andotherwiseenjoythecompany。

ThisisadistinctadvantageinfavorofChina。

InEuropeandAmerica,dessertformsthelastcourseatdinner;

inChinathisisservedfirst。Idonotknowwhichisthebetterway。

Chineseareeverreadytoacceptthebestfromeveryquarter,andsomanyofushaverecentlyadoptedtheWesternpracticeregardingdessert,whilestillretainingtheancientChinesecustom,sothatnowweeatsweetmeatsandfruitatthebeginning,duringdinner,andattheend。ThishappycombinationofEasternandWesternpracticesis,Isubmit,worthyofexpansionandextension。Ifitweretobecomeuniversalitwouldhelptodiscouragethepresentunwholesomehabit,foritisnothingmorethanahabit,ofdevouringflesh。

OneofthedishesindispensableatafashionableAmericandinneristheterrapin。Thosewhoeatthesethingssaythattheirfleshhasamostagreeableanddelicateflavor,andthattheirgelatinousskinnynecksandfinsaredelicious,butapparentlythemostpalatabletidbitspallthetasteintime,foritissaidthataboutfortyyearsagoterrapinsweresoabundantandcheapthatworkmenintheiragreementwiththeiremployersstipulatedthatterrapinshouldnotbesuppliedattheirdinnertablemorethanthreetimesaweek。Sincethenterrapinshavebecomesorarethatnostylishdinnerevertakesplacewithoutthisdish。

OystersareanotherWesternsinequanon,andarealwaysservedraw。

Iwonderhowmanyladiesandgentlemenwhoswallowthesemolluscawithsuchevidentrelishknowthattheyareveritablescavengers,whichpickupandswalloweverydirtythinginthewater。

Afriendofmineaftertakingafewofthemononeoccasion,hadtoleavethetableandgohome;hewasillafterwardforseveraldays。

Onecannotbetoocarefulastowhatoneeats。TheUnitedStateshasaPureFoodDepartment,butIthinkitmightlearnagreatdealthatitdoesnotknowifitweretosendacommissiontoChinatostudylifeintheBuddhistmonasteries,whereonlysanitary,healthfulfoodisconsumed。Itisalwaysasurprisetomethatpeoplearesoindifferenttothekindoffoodtheytake。Publichealthofficersareusefulofficials,butwhenwehavebecomemorecivilizedeachindividualwillbehisownhealthofficer。

Someofthewell-knownChinesedishesareveryrelishableandshouldnotbeoverlookedbychefsanddinnerhostesses。

Irefertothesharks\'fins,andbirds\'nest——theEasterncounterpartoftheWesternpiecederesistance——theterrapin。

Fromahygienicpointofviewsharks\'finsmaynotbeconsideredasverydesirable,seeingtheyarepartoftheshark,buttheyarecertainlynotworse,andareperhapsbetter,thanwhatiscalledthe\"highandtender\"pheasant,andotherfleshfoodswhichareconstantlyfoundonWesterndiningtables,andwhicharesoreadilyeatenbyconnoisseurs。Birds\'nestsoupisfarsuperiortoturtlesoup,andIhavetheopinionofanAmericanchemistwhoanalyzedit,thatitisinnocuousandminustheinjuriousuricacidgeneratedbyanimalflesh,thecauseofrheumaticandsimilarpainfulcomplaints。

The\"chopsuey\"suppliedintheChineserestaurantsinNewYork,Chicago,andotherplaces,seemstobeafavoritedishwiththeAmericanpublic。

Itshowsthesimilarityofourtastes,andencouragesmetoexpectthatsomeofmyrecommendationswillbeaccepted。

WillsomeoneinformmewhysomanyvarietiesofwinesarealwaysservedonAmericantables,andwhythesparklingchampagneisneveravoidable?

Wealthyfamilieswillspareneitherpainsnorexpensetospreadmostsumptuousdinners,andithasbeenreportedthatthecostofanentertainmentgivenbyonerichladyamountedtotwentythousandpoundssterling,although,asIhavesaid,eatingisthelastthingforwhichtheguestsassemble。

Idonotsupposethatmanywillagreewithme,butinmyopinionitwouldbemuchmoreagreeable,andimprovethegeneralconversation,ifalldrinksofanintoxicatingnaturewereabolishedfromthediningtable。

Itisgratifyingtoknowthattherearesomefamilies(maythenumberincreaseeveryday!)whereintoxicatingliquorsareneverseenontheirtables。

Thefirstinstanceofthissortthatcameundermynoticewasinthehomeofthatexcellentwoman,Mrs。M。F。Henderson,whoisanardentadvocateofdietreformandteetotalism。Mr。WilliamJenningsBryan,theSecretaryofState,hassetanobleexample,asfromnewspaperreportsitappearsthathegaveafarewelldinnertoAmbassadorBryce,withoutchampagneorotheralcoholicdrinks。HehasaloyalsupporterinShanghai,inthepersonoftheAmericanConsul-General,Dr。A。P。Wilder,who,tothegreatregretofeverybodywhoknowshiminthisport,isretiringfromtheserviceonaccountofill-health。Dr。Wilderisverypopularandfigureslargelyinthesociallifeofthecommunity,butDr。Wilderisastaunchopponentofalcohol,andthroughhisinfluencewinesatpublicdinnersarealwaystreatedasextras。

SolongastheliquortrafficissoextensivelyandprofitablycarriedoninEuropeandAmerica,andsolongastheconsumptionofalcoholissoenormous,solongwilltherebeadifferenceofopinionastoitsilleffects,butinthismatter,bymeansofitsStateProhibitionLaws,Americaissettinganexampletotheworld。Innoothercountryaretheresuchextensivetractswithoutalcoholasthe\"DryStates\"ofAmerica。

China,whoiswagingwaronopium,recognizesinthisfactakindred,activemoralforcewhichisabsentelsewhere,and,shakinghandswithhersisterrepublicacrosstheseas,hopesthatshewillsomedaybeasfreeofalcoholicpoisonsasChinaherselfhopestobeofopium。Everyvice,however,hasitsdefense。

SomeyearsagoImetafamousDutchartistinPeking,who,thoughstillintheprimeoflife,wasobligedtolayasidehisworkforafewdayseachmonth,duetoanoccasionalattackofrheumatism。

Ifoundhewasfondofhiscup,thoughIdidnotunderstandthathewasanimmoderatedrinker。Idiscoursedtohimsomewhatlengthilyabouttheevileffectsofdrink,andshowedhimthatunlesshewaswillingtogiveupallintoxicatingliquor,hisrheumatismwouldnevergivehimup。

Helistenedattentively,ponderedforafewminutes,andthengavethischaracteristicanswer:\"IadmitthesoundnessofyourargumentbutIenjoymyglassexceedingly;ifIweretofollowyouradviceIshouldbedeprivedofalotofpleasure。Indeed,Iwouldratherhavetherheumaticpains,whichdisappearaftertwoorthreedays,andcontinuetoenjoymyalcoholicdrinks,thanendurethemiseryofdoingwithoutthem。\"Iwarnedhimthatincourseoftimehisrheumatismwouldbelongerindurationandattackhimmorefrequently,ifhecontinuedtoignoreitswarningsandtoplaywithwhat,forhim,wascertainlypoison。Whenanyonehasahabit,beitinjuriousorotherwise,itisnoteasytopersuadehimtoabandonit。

\"TheAristocracyofHealth\"writtenbythetalentedMrs。Hendersonisanadmirablework。Iowemuchtoit。Thefactsandargumentsadducedagainsttobaccosmoking,strongdrinkandpoisonousfoods,aresetforthinsuchaclearandconvincingmanner,thatsoonafterreadingitIbecameateetotalerand\"sanitarian\"*

andbeganatoncetoreapthebenefits。IfeltthatIoughtnottokeepsuchagoodthingtomyself,butthatIshouldpreachthedoctrinefarandwide。Isoonfound,however,thatitwasanimpossibletasktotrytosavemenfromthemselves,andIacquiredtheunenviablesobriquetof\"crank\";butIwasnotdismayed。FrommynativefriendsIturnedtotheforeigncommunityinPeking,thinkingthatthelatterwouldpossessbetterjudgment,appreciateandbeconvertedtothesanitariandoctrine。AmongtheforeignersIappealedto,onewasadistinguisheddiplomat,andtheotheragentlemanintheChineseservice,withaworld-widereputation。

Bothwereelderlyandindelicatehealth,anditwasmyearnesthopethatbyreadingMrs。Henderson\'sbook,whichwassenttothem,theywouldbeconvincedoftheirerrorsandturnoveranewleaf——

Iwasdisappointed。Both,inreturningthebook,madesubstantiallythesameanswer。\"Mrs。Henderson\'sworkisveryinteresting,butatmytimeoflifeitisnotadvisabletochangelife-longhabits。

Ieatfleshmoderately,andneverdrinkmuchwine。\"Theybothseemedtooverlookthecrucialproblemastowhetherornotanimalfoodcontainshurtfulpoison。Ifitdoes,itshouldnotbeeatenatall。

Weneverhearofsensiblepeopletakingarsenic,strychnine,orotherpoisons,inmoderation,butmanyfoolishwomen,Ibelieve,takearsenictopaletheircomplexions,whileothers,bothmenandwomen,takestrychnineincombinationwithotherdrugs,asatonic,butwillanyonearguethatthesesubstancesarefoods?

Theruleofmoderationisapplicabletothingswhicharenutritious,oratleastharmless,butnottonoxiousfoods,howeversmallthequantityofpoisontheymaycontain。

Ihaveneverbeenasmokerandhavealwayseschewedtobacco,cigarettes,etc。;thoughforashortwhiletoobligefriendsIoccasionallyacceptedacigarette,nowIfirmlyrefuseeverythingofthesort——

Pleasantconversationatthedinnertableisalwaysenjoyable,andagoodtalkerisalwayswelcome,butIoftenwonderwhyAmericans,whogenerallyaresoquicktoimproveopportunity,andarenotedfortheirfreedomfromtraditionalconventionalisms,donotmakeamoresystematicuseofthegeneralloveofgoodconversation。

Anyonewhoisawittyconversationalist,withalargefundofanecdote,issuretobeaskedbyeverydinnerhosttohelptoentertaintheguests,butifthecompanybelargethefavoritecanbeenjoyedbyonlyafew,andthosewhoaretoofarawaytohear,orwhoarejustnearenoughtohearapartbutnotall,arelikelytofeelaggrieved。

Theycannothearwhatisamusingtherest,whilethetalkelsewherepreventstheirtalkingastheywouldiftherewerenointerruptions。

Araconteurgenerallymonopolizeshalfthecompany,andleavestheotherhalfoutinthecold。Thismightbeavoidediftalkerswereengagedtoentertainthewholecompanyduringdinner,aspianistsarenowsometimesengagedtoplaytothemafterdinner。

Or,theentertainmentmightbevariedbyengagingagoodprofessionalrecitertoreproduceliterarygems,comicorotherwise。Iamsuretheresultwouldbringmoregeneralsatisfactiontothegueststhanthepresentmethodofleavingthemtoentertainthemselves。

Chineseemploysinginggirls;Japanese,geishastotalk,singordance。

TheidealwouldhereagainseemtobeanamalgamationofEastandWest。

Itisdifficultforamixedcrowdtobealwaysagreeable,eveninthecongenialatmosphereofagoodfeast,unlesstheguestshavebeenselectedwithaviewtotheiropinionsratherthantotheirsocialstanding。Placeanumberofpeoplewhoseideasarecommon,withadifference,aroundawell-spreadtableandtherewillbenolackofgood,earnest,instructiveconversation。Mostmenandwomencantalkwelliftheyhavetherightsortoflisteners。

Ifthehearerisunsympatheticthebesttalkerbecomesdumb。

Hostswhorememberthiswillalwaysbeappreciated。

Asarule,adinnerconversationisseldomworthremembering,whichisapity。Man,themostsensibleofallanimals,cantalknonsensebetterthanalltherestofhistribe。PerhapstheflowofwordsmaybeassteadyastheeastwardflowoftheYang-tse-Kianginmyowncountry,butthememoryonlyretainsarecollectionofavague,undefined——what?

Theconversationliketheflavorsprovidedbythecookshasbeenevanescent。

Whyshouldnothostessesmakeasmuchefforttostimulatethemindsoftheirguestsastheydotogratifytheirpalates?

Whataboonitwouldbetomanyabashfulman,sittingnexttoaladywithwhomhehasnothingincommon,ifsomepublicentertainerduringthedinnerrelievedhimfromthenecessityofalwaysthinkingofwhatheshouldsaynext?Howmuchmorehecouldenjoythetastydisheshishostesshadprovided;andasforthelady——

whatanumberofsuppressedyawnsshemighthaveavoided。

Totakegreatpainsandspendlargesumstoprovidenicefoodforpeoplewhocannotenjoyitbecausetheyhavetotalktooneanother,seemsapity。Letonemantalktotherestandleavethemleisuretoeat,ismysuggestion。

Theopportunitiesaffordedatthediningtablemaybeturnedtomanyusefulpurposes。Ofcoursenotallareill-paired,andmanyyoungmenandladiesmeet,sitsidebyside,engageinafriendly,pleasantconversation,renewtheiracquaintanceatothertimes,andfinallymergetheirseparatepathsinthehighwayofmarriage。

PerhapsChinamightborrowaleaffromthiscustomandsubstitutedinnerpartiesforgo-betweens。Thedinner-partymethod,however,hasitsdangersaswellasitsadvantages——itdependsonthepointofview。

Personalpeculiaritiesanddefects,ifany,canbeeasilydetectedbythewayinwhichtheconversationiscarriedon,andthemannerinwhichthefoodishandled。Ithassometimeshappenedthattheaffiancedhavecancelledtheirengagementafteradinnerparty。Ontheotherhand,mattersofgreatimportcanoftenbearrangedatthedinnertablebetterthananywhereelse。Commercialtransactionsinvolvingmillionsofdollarshavefrequentlybeensettledwhilethepartiesweresippingchampagne;

eveninternationalproblems,endinginelaboratenegotiationsandtreaties,havebeenfirstdiscussedwiththeafterdinnercigar。

Theatmosphereofgoodfriendshipandequality,engenderedbyawell-furnishedroom,goodcheer,pleasantcompany,andagenialhostess,disarmsprejudice,removesbarriers,meltsreserve,anddisposesonetoseethatthereisanothersidetoeveryquestion。

InChinawhenpeoplehavequarreledtheirfriendsgenerallyinvitethemtodinner,wherethemattersindisputeareamicablyarranged。

Thesearecalled\"peacedinners\"。IwouldrecommendthatasimilarexpedientshouldbeadoptedinAmerica;manyaknottypointcouldbedisposedofbyafriendlydiscussionatthedinnertable。

Ifinternationaldisputeswerealwaysarrangedinthiswaytherepresentativesofnationshavingcomplaintsagainsteachothermightmoreoftenthannowdiscoverunexpectedwaysofadjustingtheirdifferences。Whyshouldsuchmattersinvariablyberemandedtoformalconferencesandsetspeeches?Thepreliminaries,atleast,wouldprobablybebetterarrangedatdinnerpartiesandsocialfunctions。

Eatinghasalwaysbeenassociatedwithfriendship。\"Toeatsalt\"withanArabformsamostbindingcontract。Even\"theserpent\"inthebookofGenesiscommencedhisacquaintancewithEvebysuggestingameal。

ItalmostseemsasiftherewerecertainunwrittenlawsinAmericansociety,assigningcertainfunctionstocertaindaysintheweek。

IdonotbelieveAmericansaresuperstitious,butIfoundthatThursdaywasgreatlyinfavor。IrememberononeoccasionthatMrs。Grant,widowofthelatePresident,sentaninvitationtomywifeandmyselftodineatherhousesomeThursdayevening;thiswasthreeweeksinadvance,andwereadilyacceptedherinvitation。Afterouracceptance,aboutadozeninvitationscameforthatsameThursday,allofwhichwehad,ofcourse,todecline。Curiouslyenoughwereceivednoinvitationsforanyotherdayduringthatweek,andjustbeforethateventfulThursdaywereceivedaletterfromMrs。Grantcancellingtheinvitationonaccountofthedeathofoneofherrelations,sothatwehadtodineathomeafterall。

NowweChinesemakenosuchdistinctionsbetweendays。

Everydayoftheweekisequallygood;inorderhowevertoavoidclashingwithotherpeoples\'engagements,wegenerallyfixFridaysforourreceptionsordinners,butthereisnotamongtheChineseanentertainmentseasonasthereisinWashington,andothergreatcities,wheneverybodyingoodsocietyisbusyattendingorgiving\"AtHomes\",teapartiesordinners。Ifrequentlyattended\"AtHomes\"orteapartiesinhalf-a-dozenplacesormoreinoneafternoon,butnoonecandineduringthesameeveninginmorethanoneplace。

InthisrespectAmericamightlearnalessonfromChina。Wecanaccepthalf-a-dozeninvitationstodinnerforoneevening;allwehavetodoistogotoeachplaceinturn,partakeofoneortwodishes,excuseourselvestothehostandthengosomewhereelse。

Bythismeansweavoidtheseemingrudenessofadeclination,andescapetheillfeelingswhicharefrequentlycreatedintheWestbyinvitationsbeingrefused。TheChinesemethodmakespossiblethecultivationofdemocraticfriendshipswithoutviolatingaristocraticinstincts,andforcandidatesatelectiontimesitwouldproveanagreeablemethodbywhichtomakenewfriends。

WearelessrigidthanAmericansaboutdroppinginandtakingamouthfulortwoatdinner,evenwithoutaspecialinvitation。*——

*Sincewritingtheabove,IhaveheardfromanAmericanladythat\"progressivedinners\"haverecentlybeenintroducedbytheidleandrichsetofyoungpeopleinNewYork。

Themodusoperandiisthatseveraldinnerswill,byarrangement,begivenonacertainday,andtheguestswillgotoeachhousealternately,eatingoneortwodishesonlyandremainingatthelasthouseforfruit。

Icanhardlybelievethis,butmyfriendassuresmeitisafact。

Itseemsthateatingisturnedintoplay,andtoappreciatethefun,Iwouldliketobeoneoftheactors——

Washingtonofficialsanddiplomatsusuallygivelargeentertainments。

Thearrangingoftheseatsatthedinnertableisadelicatematter,astheruleofprecedencehastobeobserved,andinattentiontotherule,byplacingawrongseatforagentlemanorladywhoisentitledtoahigherplace,maybeconsideredasaslight。Itisatsuchfunctionsasthesethattheprofessionalstory-teller,thegoodreciter,thecleverreader,theperfectentertainerwouldmakethenaturalselfishreserveofmankindlessapparent。

Fashionablepeople,whoentertainagooddeal,are,Iunderstand,oftenpuzzledtoknowhowtoprovidenovelties。InadditiontothesuggestionsIhavemade,mayIbepardonedanother?

TherearemanygoodcooksintheU。S。A。WhynotcommissionthesetosometimespreparearechercheChinesedinner,withthefoodservedinbowlsinsteadofplates,andwithchop-sticks(\"nimblelads\"wecallthem)

forshow,butforksandspoonsforuse。IseenoreasonwhyChinesemealsshouldnotbecomefashionableinAmerica,asWesternpreparationsarefrequentlyfavoredbytheEliteinChina。OnemarkeddifferencebetweenthetwostylesisthemannerinwhichtheChinesepurveyorthrowshismostdelicateflavorsintostrongreliefbyprefacingitwithadietwhichisinsipid,harshorpungent。Contrastsaddzesttoeverythinghuman,beitdining,working,playing,orwooing。

Thissuggestsanoccasional,toothsomevegetarianrepastasaset-offtothesameroundoffish,flesh,fowlandwinefumes。

NopeopleintheworldcanpreparesuchdeliciousvegetarianbanquetsasaChineseculinaryartist。

AbanquetisamoreformalaffairthanthedinnerpartiesIhavebeendiscussing。Itisgenerallygottenuptocelebratesomespecialevent,suchastheconclusionofsomeimportantbusiness,orthebirthdayofsomenationalherolikeWashington,Lincoln,orGrant;

ortheChambersofCommerceandAssociationsofdifferenttradesintheimportantcitiesofAmericawillholdtheirannualmeetingstohearareportanddiscussthebusinessestransactedduringtheyear,windingupbyholdingalargebanquet。

Thefoodsuppliedontheseoccasionsisbynomeanssuperiortothatgivenatprivatedinners,yeteverybodyisgladtobeinvited。

Itistheinevitablerulethatspeechesfollowtheeating,andpeopleattend,notforthesakeofthefood,butfortheprivilegeofhearingotherstalk。

Indeed,exceptfortheopportunityoftalking,orhearingotherstalk,peoplewouldprobablypreferaquietmealathome。

Speakerswithareputation,orators,statesmen,orforeigndiplomatsarefrequentlyinvited,andsometimeseminentmenfromothercountriesaretheguestsofhonor。Thesefunctionsoccureveryyear,andtheForeignMinisterswithwhosecountriestheAssociationshavecommercialrelationsaregenerallypresent。

Thetopicsdiscussedarenearlyalwaysthesame,anditisnoteasytospeakatoneofthesegatheringswithoutgoingoverthesamegroundasthatcoveredonpreviousoccasions。Irememberthatacolleagueofminewhowasacleverdiplomat,andforwhomIhadgreatrespect,oncewhenaskedtomakeanafter-dinnerspeech,reluctantlyroseand,asfarasIcanremember,spoketothefollowingeffect:

\"Mr。Chairmanandgentlemen,IthankyourAssociationforinvitingmetothissplendidbanquet,butasIhadthehonorofspeakingatyourbanquetlastyearIhavenothingmoretoadd,andIreferyoutothatspeech;\"

hethensatdown。Thenoveltyofhisremarks,ofcourse,wonhimapplause,butIshouldliketoknowwhatthecompanyreallythoughtofhim。

Formypart,Ipraisedhiswisdom,forhediplomaticallyrebukedallwhoseonlyinterestisthatwhichhasitsbirthwiththedayanddisappearswiththenight。

BanquetsanddinnersinAmerica,asinChina,are,however,oftenfarremovedfromfrivolities。Statesmensometimesselecttheseopportunitiesforapronouncementoftheirpolicy,eventhePresidentofthenationmayoccasionallythinkitadvisabletodothis。Speechesdeliveredonsuchoccasionsaregenerallyreportedinallthenewspapers,and,ofcourse,discussedbyallsortsofpeople,thewiseandtheotherwise,sothatthespeakerhastobeverycarefulastowhathesays。OurPresidentconfineshimselftothemoreformalprocedureofissuinganofficialmandate,thesameinkind,thoughdifferinginexpression,asanAmericanPresident\'sInauguralAddress,oroneofhisMessagestoCongress。

CommercialmendonotunderstandandareimpatientwiththerestrictionswhichhedgeroundaForeignMinister,andintheiranxietytogetspeakerstheywilllookanywhere。OnoneoccasionIreceivedaninvitationtogotoCanadatoattendabanquetataCommercialClubinoneoftheprincipalCanadiancities。Itwouldhavegivenmegreatpleasuretobeabletocomplywiththisrequest,asIhadnotthenvisitedthatcountry,but,contrarytoinclination,Ihadtodecline。IwasaccreditedasMinistertoWashington,anddidnotfeelatlibertytovisitanothercountrywithoutthespecialpermissionofmyHomeGovernment。

Publicspeaking,likeanyotherart,hastobecultivated。

Howeverscholarlyamanmaybe,andhowevercleverhemaybeinprivateconversation,whencalledupontospeakinpublichemaysometimesmakeaverypoorimpression。Ihaveknownhighlyplacedforeignofficials,withdeservedreputationsforwisdomandability,whowereshockinglypoorspeakersatbanquets。

Theywouldhesitateandalmoststammer,andwouldprovequiteincapableofexpressingtheirthoughtsinanysensibleorintelligentmanner。

Inthisrespect,personalobservationshaveconvincedmethatAmericans,asarule,arebetterspeakersthan……(Iwillnotmentionthenationalityinmymind,itmightgiveoffense。)AnAmerican,who,withoutpreviousnotice,iscalledupontospeak,generallyacquitshimselfcreditably。Heisnearlyalwayswitty,appreciative,andfrank。Thisisdue,Ibelieve,tothethorough-goingnatureofhiseducation:heistaughttobeself-confident,tobelieveinhisownabilitytocreate,toexpresshisopinionswithoutfear。

Adiffidentandretiringman,whosechiefcharacteristicisextrememodesty,isnotlikelytobeagoodspeaker;butAmericansarefreefromthisweakness。

Farbeitfrommetosuggestthattherearenogoodspeakersinothercountries。Americacanbynomeansclaimamonopolyoforators;