TheseasonisendinginthelittlesummersettlementontheDownEastcoastwhereIhavebeenpassingthelastthreemonths,andwitheachloathdaythesenseofitspeculiarcharmgrowsmorepoignant。
AprescienceofthehomesicknessIshallfeelforitwhenIgoalreadybeginstotormentme,andIfindmyselfwishingtoimaginesomeformofwordswhichshallkeepalikenessofitatleastthroughthewinter;someshadowysemblancewhichImayturntohereafterifanychanceorchangeshoulddestroyortransformit,or,whatismorelikely,ifIshouldnevercomebacktoit。Perhapsothersinthedistantfuturemayturntoitforaglimpseofouractuallifeinoneofitsmostcharacteristicphases;Iamsurethatinthedistantpresenttherearemanymillionsofourowninlanderstowhomitwouldbealtogetherstrange。
I。
Inacertainsortfragileiswrittenalloverourcolony;asfarasthevisiblebodyofitisconcerneditisinexpressiblyperishable;afireandahighwindcouldsweepitallaway;andoneofthemostAmericanofallAmericanthingsistheleastfittedamongthemtosurvivefromthepresenttothefuture,andimparttoitthesignificanceofwhatmaysoonbea\"portionandparcel\"ofourextremelyforgetfulpast。
Itisalsoinasupremelytransitionalmoment:onemightsaythatlastyearitwasnotquitewhatitisnow,andnextyearitmaybealtogetherdifferent。Infact,oursummercolonyisinthathappyhourwhentherudenessofthefirstsummerconditionshasbeenleftfarbehind,andvulgarluxuryhasnotyetcumbrouslysucceededtoasortofsylvandistinction。
Thetypeofitssimpleandsufficinghospitalitiesistheseven—o’clocksupper。Everyone,inhotelorincottage,dinesbetweenoneandtwo,andnolessscrupulouslysupsatseven,unlessitisafewextremistswhosupathalf—pastseven。Atthisfunction,whichisourchiefsocialevent,itis’derigueur’forthemennottodress,andtheycomeinanysortofsackorjacketorcutaway,lettingtheladiesmakeupthepompswhichtheyforego。Fromthisfactmaybeinferredtheinformalityofthemen’sday—timeattire;andthesamenoteissoundedinthewholerangeofthecottagelife,sothatonceavisitorfromtheworldoutside,whohadbeenexasperatedbeyondendurancebytheabsenceofformamongus(ifsuchaneffectcouldbefromacausesonegative),burstoutwiththereproach,\"Oh,youmakeafetishofyourinformality!\"
\"Fetish\"is,perhaps,rathertoostrongaword,butIshouldnotmindsayingthatinformalitywasthetutelarygeniusoftheplace。Americanmenareeverywhereimpatientofform。Itburdensandbothersthem,andtheyliketothrowitoffwhenevertheycan。Wemaynotbesoverydemocraticatheartasweseem,butweareimpatientofceremoniesthatseparateuswhenitisourbusinessorourpleasuretogetatoneanother;anditispartofoursplendortoignoretheceremonies,aswedotheexpenses。Wehaveallthedecentgradesofrichesandpovertyinourcolony,butourinformalityisnotmorethetreasureofthehumblethanofthegreat。Inthenatureofthingsitcannotlast,however,andtheonlyquestionishowlongitwilllast。Ithink,myself,untilsomeoneimaginesgivinganeight—o’clockdinner;thenalltheinformalitieswillgo,andthewholetrainofevilswhichsuchadinnerconnoteswillrushin。
II。
Thecottagesthemselvesareofseveralsorts,andsomestillexistintheearlierstagesofmutationfromthefishermen’sandfarmers’houseswhichformedtheirgerm。Butthesearenowmostlyletaslodgingstobachelorsandothersingleorsemi—detachedfolkswhogofortheirmealstotheneighboringhotelsorboarding—houses。Thehotelsareeachthecentreofthissortofcentripetallife,aswellasthehomesoftheirownscoresorhundredsofinmates。Asingleboarding—housegathersaboutithalfadozendependentcottageswhichitcaresfor,andfeedsatitstable;andevenwherethecottageshavekitchensandallthehousekeepingfacilities,theirinmatessometimesprefertodineatthehotels。
Byfarthegreaternumberofcottagers,however,keephouse,bringingtheirservicewiththemfromthecities,andsettlingintheirsummerhomesforthreeorfourorfivemonths。
Thehousesconformmoreorlesstoonetype:apicturesquestructureofcolonialpattern,shingledtotheground,andstainedorlefttotakeaweather—stainofgrayishbrown,withcavernousverandas,anddormer—
windowedroofscoveringtenortwelverooms。Withintheyare,ifnotelaboratelyfinished,elaboratelyfittedup,withaconstantregardtohealthintheplumbinganddrainage。Thewaterisbroughtinasystemofpipesfromalakefivemilesaway,andasitisonlyforsummerusethepipesarenotburiedfromthefrost,butwanderalongthesurface,throughthefernsandbramblesofthetoughlittlesea—sideknollsonwhichthecottagesareperched,andclimbtheoldtumblingstonewallsoftheoriginalpasturesbeforedivingintothecementedbasements。
Mostofthecottagesareownedbytheiroccupants,andfurnishedbythem;
therest,notlessattractiveandhardlylesstastefullyfurnished,belongtonatives,whohavecaughtontothearchitecturalanddomesticpreferencesofthesummerpeople,andhavebuiltthemtolet。Therugositiesofthestonypasturelandendinawoodedpointseaward,andcurveeastandnorthinasuccessionofbeaches。Itisonthepoint,andmainlyshortofitswoodedextremity,thatthecottagesofoursettlementaredropped,asneartheoceanasmaybe,andwithaslittleorderasbirds’nestsinthegrass,amongthesweet—fern,laurel,bay,wildraspberries,anddog—roses,whichitistheidealtoleaveasuntouchedaspossible。Wheel—wornlanesthattwistaboutamongthehollowsfindthecottagesfromthehighway,butfoot—pathsapproachonecottagefromanother,andpeoplewalkratherthandrivetoeachother’sdoors。
Fromthedeep—bosomed,well—shelteredlittleharborthetidesswiminland,halfascoreofwindingmiles,upthechannelofariverwhichwithoutthemwouldbeatricklingrivulet。Anirregularlineofcottagesfollowstheshorealittleway,andthenleavestherivertotheschoonersandbargeswhichnavigateitasfarastheoldestpile—builtwoodenbridgeinNewEngland,andtheseintheirturnabandonittothefleetsofrow—boatsandcanoesinwhichsummeryouthofbothsexesexploreittoitssourceoverdepthsasclearasglass,pastwoodedheadlandsandlow,rush—borderedmeadows,throughreachesandopeningsofpastoralfields,andundertheshadowofdreaminggroves。
IfthereisanythinglovelierthanthesceneryofthisgentleriverIdonotknowit;andIdoubtiftheskyispurerandbluerinparadise。Thisseemstobetheconsensus,tacitorexplicit,oftheyouthwhovisitit,andemploythelandscapefortheirpicnicsandtheirwaterpartiesfromthebeginningtotheendofsummer。
Theriverisverymuchusedforsunsetsbythecottagerswholiveonit,andwhoclaimasuperioritythroughthemtothecottagersonthepoint。
Animpartialmindobligesmetosaythatthesunsetsareallgoodinourcolony;thereisnoplacefromwhichtheyarebad;andyetforacertaintragicalsunset,wherethedyingdaybleedsslowlyintothechanneltillitisfilledfromshoretoshorewithredasfarastheeyecanreach,theriverisunmatched。
Formyownpurposes,itisnotlessacceptable,however,whenthefoghascomeinfromthesealikeavisiblereverie,andblurredthewholevalleywithitswhiteness。Ifindthatparticularlygoodtolookatfromthetrolley—carwhichvisitsandrevisitstheriverbeforefinallyleavingit,withasortofdesperation,andhidingitspassionwithasuddenplungeintothewoods。
III。
Theoldfishingandseafaringvillage,whichhasnowalmostlosttherecollectionofitsfirstestateinitsabsorptionwiththecareofthesummercolony,wassparselydroppedalongthehighwayborderingtheharbor,andtheshoresoftheriver,wherethepilesofthetime—wornwharvesarestillrotting。Afewhousesofthepastremain,butthetypeofthesummercottagehasimpresseditselfuponallthelaterbuilding,andthenativeispassingarchitecturally,ifnotpersonally,intoabeyance。Hetakesthesituationphilosophically,andintheseasonhecaterstothesummercolonynotonlyasthelandlordoftherentedcottages,andthekeeperofthehotelsandboarding—houses,butaslivery—stableman,grocer,butcher,marketman,apothecary,anddoctor;
thereisnotoneforeignaccentinanyofthesecallings。Ifthenativeisafarmer,hedevoteshimselftovegetables,poultry,eggs,andfruitforthesummerfolks,andbringsthesesuppliestotheirdoors;hischildrenappearwithflowers;andtherearemanyproofsthathehasaccuratelysizedthecottagersupintheirtastesandfanciesaswellastheirneeds。Idoubtifwehavesizedhimupsowell,orifoursomewhatconventionalizedidealofhimisperfectlyrepresentative。Heis,perhaps,morecomplexthanheseems;heiscertainlymuchmoreself—
sufficingthanmighthavebeenexpected。Thesummerfolksarethematerialfromwhichhisprosperityiswrought,butheisnotdependent,andisveryfarfromsubmissive。Asinallrightconditions,itisheretheemployerwhoasksforwork,nottheemployee;andtheworkmustberespectfullyaskedfor。Therearemanyfablestothiseffect,as,forinstance,thatoftheladywhosaidtoasummervisitor,criticaloftheweek’swashshehadbroughthome,\"I’llwashyouandI’llironyou,butI
won’ttakenoneofyourjaw。\"Aprimitiveindependenceisthekeynoteofthenativecharacter,anditsuffersnoinfringement,butratherboastsitself。\"We’reindependenthere,Itellyou,\"saidthefriendlypersonwhoconsentedtotakeoffthewiredoor。\"IwasdownBangorwaydoin’apieceofwork,andafellowcomealong,andsayshe,’Iwantyoushouldhurryuponthatjob。’’Hello!’saysI,’IguessI’llpullout。’Well,wecalculatetodoourwork,\"headded,withanaccentwhichsufficientlyimpliedthattheirconsciencesneedednobossingintheperformance。
Thenativecompliancewithanysummer—visitingrequestiscommonlyinsomesuchformas,\"Well,Idon’tknowbutwhatIcan,\"or,\"Iguessthereain’tanythingtohinderme。\"Thiscomplianceissorarely,ifever,carriedtothepointofdomesticservicethatitmayfairlybesaidthatallthedomesticservice,atleastofthecottagers,isimported。
Thenativeswillwaitatthehoteltables;theywillcomein\"toaccommodate\";buttheywillnot\"liveout。\"Iwasonedaywitnessoftheextremefailureofafriendwhosecitycookhadsuddenlyabandonedhim,andwhoappliedtoafriendlyfarmer’swifeinthevainhopethatshemighthelphimtosomeonewhowouldhelphisfamilyoutintheirstrait。
\"Why,thereain’tagirlintheHollowthatlivesout!Why,ifyouwassickabed,Idon’tknowasIknowanybody’tyoucouldgittosetupwithyou。\"Thenativeswillnotliveoutbecausetheycannotkeeptheirself—
respectintheconditionsofdomesticservice。Somepeoplelaughatthisself—respect,butmostsummerfolkslikeit,asIownIdo。
Inourpartlymythicalestimateofthenativeandhisrelationtous,heisimaginedasholdingakindofcarnivalwhenweleavehimattheendoftheseason,anditisbelievedthathelikesustogoearly。Wehavehadhisgoodofficesatafairpriceallsummer,butasitdrawstoaclosetheyarerenderedmoreandmorefitfully。Fromsome,perhapsflattered,reportsofthehappinessofthenativesatthedepartureofthesojourners,Ihavepicturedthemdancingasortoffarandole,andstretchingwithlinkedhandsfromthefarthestsummercottageuptherivertothelastonthewoodedpoint。Itiscertainthattheygettired,andIcouldnotblamethemiftheyweregladtoberidoftheirguests,andtogobacktotheirownsociallife。Thisincludeschurchfestivalsofdiverskinds,lecturesandshows,sleigh—rides,theatricals,andreading—clubs,andaplentifuluseofbooksfromtheexcellentlychosenfreevillagelibrary。Theysayfranklythatthesummerfolkshavenoideahowpleasantitiswhentheyaregone,andIamsurethatthegayetiestowhichweleavethemmustbemoretolerablethanthosewhichwegobacktointhecity。Itmaybe,however,thatIamtooconfident,andthattheirgayetiesareonlydifferent。Ishouldreallyliketoknowjustwhattheentertainmentsarewhicharegiveninabuildingdevotedtotheminacountryneighborhoodthreeorfourmilesfromthevillage。Itwasonceachurch,butisnowusedsolelyforsocialamusements。
IV
TheamusementsofthesummercolonyIhavealreadyhintedat。Besidessuppers,therearealsoteas,oflargerscope,bothafternoonandevening。Therearehopseveryweekatthetwolargesthotels,whicharepracticallyfreetoall;andthebathing—beachis,ofcourse,asupremeattraction。Thebath—houses,whichareverycleanandwellequipped,arenotverycheap,eitherfortheseasonorforasinglebath,andthereisaprettypavilionattheedgeofthesands。ThisisalwaysfullofgossipingspectatorsofthehardyadventurerswhobravetidestooremotefromtheGulfStreamtobeevermuchwarmerthansixtyorsixty—fivedegrees。Thebathersaremostlyyoungpeople,whohavethecourageoftheirprettybathing—costumesortheinextinguishableardoroftheiryears。Ifitisnotratherseriousbusinesswiththemall,stillI
admirethefortitudewithwhichsomeofthemremaininfifteenminutes。
Beyondourcolony,whichcallsitselfthePort,thereisafarmorepopulouswatering—place,eastofthePoint,knownastheBeach,whichistheresortofpeopleseveralgradesofgentilitylowerthanours:somany,infact,thatwenevercanspeakoftheBeachwithoutavertingourfaces,or,atthebest,withatolerantsmile。Itisreallyasuccessionofbeaches,allmuchlongerand,Iamboundtosay,morebeautifulthanours,linedwithrowsofthehumblersortofsummercottagesknownasshells,andwithmanyhotelsofcorrespondingdegree。Thecottagesmaybehiredbytheweekormonthatabouttwodollarsaday,andtheyaresupposedtobetakenbyinlandpeopleoflittlesocialimportance。Verylikelythisistrue;buttheyseemedtobeverynice,quietpeople,andI
commonlysawtheladiesreading,ontheirverandas,booksandmagazines,whilethegentlemensprayedthedustyroadbeforethemwiththegardenhose。Theplacehadalsoformeanagreeablealiensuggestion,andinpassingthelongrowofcottagesIwasslightlyremindedofScheveningen。