第2章

Beyondthecottagesettlementsisastrugglinglittlepark,dedicatedtotheonlyIndiansaintIeverheardof,thoughtheremaybeothers。Hisstatue,colossalinsheet—lead,andpaintedthecoppercolorofhisrace,offersanyheathencomerthechoicebetweenaBibleinoneofhishandsandatomahawkintheother,attheentranceofthepark;andthereareothersheet—leadgroupsandfiguresinthewhiteofallegoryatdifferentpoints。Itpromisestobeaprettyenoughlittleplaceinfutureyears,butasyetitisnotmuchresortedtobytheexcursionswhichlargelyformtheprosperityoftheBeach。Theconcertsandthe\"high—classvaudeville\"promisedhavenotflourishedinthepavilionprovidedforthem,andoneoftwomonkeysinthezoologicaldepartmenthasperishedofthepublicinattention。Thishasnotfatallyaffectedthecaptivebear,whorisestohishindlegs,andeatspeanutsanddoughnutsinthatpositionlikeafellow—citizen。Withthecockatoosandparrots,andthedozendeerinaninclosureofwirenetting,heisnomeanattraction;buthedoesnotcharmtheexcursionistsawayfromthesummervillageattheshore,wheretheyspendlongafternoonssplashingamongthewaves,orinlollinggroupsofmen,women,andchildrenonthesand。Inthemoreactivegayeties,Ihaveseennothingsodecidedduringthewholeseasonasthebehaviorofthreeyounggirlswhooncecameupoutofthesea,andobligedmebydancingameasureonthesmooth,hardbeachintheirbathing—dresses。

Ithoughtitverypretty,butIdonotbelievesuchathingcouldhavebeenseenonOURbeach,whichissafefromallexcursionists,andsacredtothecottageandhotellifeofthePort。

Besidesourbeachanditsbathing,wehaveareading—clubforthemen,evolvedfromoneoftheoldnativehouses,andverandaedroundforsummeruse;andwehavegolf—linksandagolfclub—housewithineasytrolleyreach。Thelinksareasenergetically,ifnotasgenerally,frequentedasthesands,andthesportfindsthefavorwhichattendsiteverywhereinthedecayoftennis。Thetennis—courtswhichIsawthrongedaboutbyeagergirl—crowds,here,sevenyearsago,arenowalmostwhollyabandonedtotheloversofthegame,whoarenearlyalwaysmen。

Perhapstheonlything(besides,ofcourse,ourcommonmortality)whichwehaveincommonwiththeexcursionistsisourloveofthetrolley—line。

This,byitsadmirableequipment,andbytheterroritinspiresinhorses,haswell—nighabolisheddriving;andfollowingtheoldcountryroads,asitdoes,withanoccasionalshort—cutthoughthedeep,green—

lightedwoodsoracrosstheprismaticsaltmeadows,itisofapicturesquevarietyentirelysatisfying。Afterayearofferventoppositionandprotest,thewholecommunity——whetherofsummerorofwinterfolks——nowgladlyacceptsthetrolley,andthegrandestcottagerandthelowliesthoteldwellermeetinagratefulappreciationofitsbeautyandcomfort。

Somepassagreatpartofeveryafternoononthetrolley,andoneladyhasachievedcelebritybyspendingfourdollarsaweekintrolley—rides。

Theexhilarationoftheseisvariedwithanoccasionalapprehensionwhenthecarpitchesdownasharpincline,andtwistsalmostatrightanglesonasuddencurveatthebottomwithoutslackingitsspeed。Aladywhoventuredanappealtotheconductoratonesuchcrisiswasreassured,andatthesametimetaughtherplace,byhisreply:\"Thatmotorman’slife,ma’am,isjustasprecioustohimaswhatyoursistoyou。\"

Shehad,perhaps,reallyventuredtoofar,forordinarilytheemployeesofthetrolleydonotfindoccasiontousesomuchseveritywiththeirpassengers。Theylookaftertheircomfortasfaraspossible,andseekeventoanticipatetheirwantsinunexpectedcases,ifImaybelieveastorywhichwastoldbyawitness。Shehadlongexpectedtoseesomeonethrownoutoftheopencaratoneofthesharpcurves,andonedaysheactuallysawawomanhurledfromtheseatintotheroad。Luckilythewomanslightedonherfeet,andstoodlookingroundinadaze。

\"Oh!oh!\"exclaimedanotherwomanintheseatbehind,\"she’sleftherumbrella!\"

Theconductorpromptlythrewitouttoher。

\"Why,\"demandedthewitness,\"didthatladywishtogetouthere?\"

Theconductorhesitatedbeforehejerkedthebellpulltogoon:Thenhesaid,\"Well,she’llwantherumbrella,anyway。\"

Theconductorsare,infact,verycivilaswellaskind。Iftheyseeahorseinanxietyattheapproachofthecar,theyconsideratelystop,andlethimgetbywithhisdriverinsafety。Bysuchmeans,withtheirfrequenttripsandlowfares,andwiththeeaseandcomfortoftheircars,theyhaveconciliatedpublicfavor,andthetrolleyhasdrawntravelawayfromthesteamrailroadinsuchmeasurethatitrannotrainslastwinter。

Thetrolley,infact,isafadofthesummerfolksthisyear;butwhatitwillbeanothernooneknows;itmaybetheirhissingandby—word。Inthemeantime,asIhavealreadysuggested,theyhaveotheramusements。

Thesearenotalwaysofanaturesogeneralasthetrolley,orsoparticularasthetea。Buteachofthelargerhotelshasbeenfullysuppliedwithentertainmentsforthebenefitoftheirprojectors,thoughnearlyeverythingofthesorthadsomesortofcharitableslant。I

assistedatastereopticonlectureonAlaskafortheaidofsomeyouthfulAlaskansofbothsexes,whowereshownfirstintheirsavagestate,andthenastheyappearedafteramerelyrudimentaleducation,inthecostumesandprofilesofourowncivilization。Ineverwouldhavesupposedthateducationcoulddosomuchinsoshortatime;andIgladlygavemymitefortheirfurtherdevelopmentinclassicbeautyandafinalelegance。Mymitewastakenupinahat,which,passedroundamongtheaudience,isacommonmeansofcollectingthespectators’expressionsofappreciation。Otherentertainments,ofaprouderframe,exactanadmissionfee,butIamnotsurethatthesearebetterthansomeofthehat—shows,astheyarecalled。

Thetaleofoursummeramusementswouldbesadlyincompletewithoutsomerecordofthebull—fightsgivenbytheSpanishprisonersofwarontheneighboringisland,wheretheywereconfinedtheyearofthewar。

Admissiontothesecouldbehadonlybyfavoroftheofficersincharge,andevenamongtheEliteofthecolonythosewhowentwereamoreelectfew。Still,thedayIwent,thereweresomefiftyorseventy—fivespectators,whoarrivedbytrolleyneartheisland,andwalkedtothestockadewhichconfinedthecaptives。Arealbull—fight,Ibelieve,isalwaysgivenonSunday,andPuritanprejudiceyieldedtousageeveninthecaseofaburlesquebull—fight;atanyrate,itwasonaSundaythatwecrouchedinanirregularsemicircleonarisinggroundwithintheprisonpale,andfacedthecaptiveaudienceinanothersemicircle,acrossalittlealleyfortheentrancesandexitsoftheperformers。Thepresidentofthebull—fightwasfirstbroughttotheplaceofhonorinahand—cart,andthencamethebanderilleros,thepicadores,andtheespada,wonderfullyeffectiveandcorrectinwhitemuslinandcoloredtissue—paper。Muchmaybedoneinpersonaldecorationwithadvertisingplacards;andtheloftymuralcrownofthepresidenturgedthepubliconbothsidestoUsePlugCut。Thepicador’spasteboardhorsewasattachedtohismiddle,foreandaft,andlookedquitethesortofhaplessjadewhichisordinarilysacrificedtothebulls。Thetorohimselfwascomposedoftwoprisoners,whosehorizontalbackswerecoveredwithabrownblanket;andhisfeet,sometimesbareandsometimesshodwithindia—rubberboots,wereofthehumanpattern。Practicablehorns,ofasomewhattooyieldingsubstance,branchedfromafrontofpasteboard,andaclothtail,apttocomeoffinthecharge,swungfromhisrear。Ihaveneverseenagenuinecorrida,butaladypresent,whohad,toldmethatthiswasconductedwithalltherightcircumstance;anditiscertainthattheperformersenteredintotheirpartswiththeartisticgustoftheirrace。Thepicadorsustainedsometerrificfalls,andinhisqualityofhorsehadtobetakenoutrepeatedlyandsewedup;thebanderillerostormentedandeludedthetorowithtable—covers,oneredandtwodrab,tilltheespadatookhimfromthem,andwithdueceremony,afteraspeechtothepresident,drovehisbladehometothebull’sheart。Istayedtoseethreebullskilled;thelastwasuncommonlyfierce,andwhenhishindquarterscameofforout,hisforequarterschargedjoyouslyamongtheaficionadosontheprisoners’side,andmadehavocintheirthicklypackedranks。Theespadawhokilledthisbullwasshoweredwithcigarsandcigarettesfromourside。

IdonotknowwhattheSabbath—keepingshadesoftheoldPuritansmadeofourpresenceatsuchafeteonSunday;butpossiblytheyhadgotonsofarinabetterlifeastobelessshockedatthedecayofpietyamongusthanpleasedattheriseofsuchChristianityashadbroughtus,likefriendsandcomrades,togetherwithourpublicenemiesinthisharmlessfun。Iwishtosaythatthetobaccolavishedupontheespadawascollectedforthebehoofofalltheprisoners。

OurfictionhasmadesomuchofoursummerplacesasthemiseensceneofitslovestoriesthatIsupposeIoughttosaysomethingofthissideofourcoloniallife。ButaftersixtyIsuspectthatone’seyesarepoorforthatsortofthing,andIcanonlysaythatinitsearliestandsimplestepochthePortwasparticularlyfamousforthegoodtimesthattheyoungpeoplehad。Theystillhavegoodtimes,thoughwhetheronjusttheoldtermsIdonotknow。Iknowthattheriverisstillherewithitscanoesandrowboats,itsmeadowyreachesaptfordualsolitude,anditsgrovesforpicnics。Thereisnotmuchbicycling——theroadsareroughandhilly——butthereissomethingofit,anditismightyprettytoseetheyouthofbothsexesbicyclingwiththeirheadsbare。Theygoaboutbareheadedonfootandinbuggies,too,andtheyounggirlsseekthetanwhichtheirmothersusedsoanxiouslytoshun。

Thesail—boats,mannedbyweather—wornandweatherwiseskippers,areratherforthepleasureofsucholdersummerfolksashaveatasteforcod—fishing,whichishereverygood。Butateveryage,andinwhateversortourcolonistsamusethemselves,itiswiththeleastpossibleceremony。Itisasif,Naturehavingtakenthemsohospitablytoherheart,theyfeltconventionanaffronttoher。Aroundtheircottages,asIhavesaid,theyprefertoleaveherprimitivebeautyuntouched,andsherewardstheirforbearancewithsuchaprofusionofwildflowersasIhaveseennowhereelse。Thelow,pinklaurelflushedallthestonyfieldstotheedgesoftheirverandaswhenwefirstcame;themeadowsweremilk—

whitewithdaisies;intheswampyplacesdelicateorchidsgrew,inthepoolstheflagsandfloweringrushes;allthepathsandway—sidesweresetwithdog—roses;thehollowsandstonytopswerebroadlymattedwithgroundjuniper。Sincethenthegoldenrodhaspassedfromglorytoglory,firstmixingitsyellow—powderedplumeswiththered—purpletuftsoftheiron—weed,andthenwiththewildasterseverywhere。Therehascomelateradwarfsort,sixortenincheshigh,wonderfullyrichandfine,which,withalow,whiteaster,seemstoholdthefieldagainsteverythingelse,thoughthetallergolden—rodandthemassesofthehigh,blueastersnodlessthicklyaboveit。Butthesesmallerbloomsdeckthegroundinincredibleprofusion,andhaveaninnocentairofbeingstuckin,asiftheyhadbeenfancifullyusedforornamentbychildrenorIndians。

Inalittlewhilenow,asitisalmosttheendofSeptember,allthefeatherygoldwillhavefadedtothesoft,paleghostsofthatloveliness。Thesummerbirdshavelongbeensilent;thecrows,asiftheyweresomanyexultantnatives,areshoutingintheblueskyabovethewindrowsoftherowan,injubilantprescienceofthedepopulationofourcolony,whichfledthehotelsafortnightago。Thedaysaregrowingshorter,andtheredeveningsfallingearlier;sothatthecottagers’

husbandswhocomeupeverySaturdayfromtownmightwellbeimpatientforaMondayoffinalreturn。Thosewhocamefromremoterdistanceshavegonebackalready;andtheladycottagers,lingeringhardilyontillOctober,mustfindthesightoftheemptyhotelsandthewindowsoftheneighboringhouses,whichnolongerbrightenafterthechillynightfall,ratherdepressing。Everyonesaysthatthisistheloveliesttimeofyear,andthatitwillbedivinehereallthroughOctober。Buttherearesuddenandunexpecteddefections;thereisasteadypulloftheheartcityward,whichitishardtoresist。Thefirstgreatexoduswasonthefirstofthemonth,whenthehotelsweredesertedbyfour—fifthsoftheirguests。Therestfollowed,halfofthemwithintheweek,andwithinafortnightnonebutanallbutinaudibleandinvisibleremnantwereleft,whomadenoimpressionofsummersojourninthedesertedtrolleys。

Thedaysnowgobyinmoodsofrapidsuccession。Therehavebeendayswhentheseahaslainsmilinginplacidderisionoftherecreantswhohavefledthelingeringsummer;therehavebeennightswhenthewindshaveroaredroundthecottagesinwildmenaceofthefaithfulfewwhohaveremained。

Wehavehadamagnificentstorm,whichcame,asanequinoctialstormshould,exactlyattheequinox,andforadayandanightheapedtheseaupontheshoreinthunderingsurgestwentyandthirtyfeethigh。I

watchedtheseattheirawfulest,fromthewidewindowsofacottagethatcrouchedintheveryedgeofthesurf,withtheeffectofclutchingtherockswithonehandandholdingitsroofonwiththeother。TheseawassuchasightasIhavenotseenonshipboard,andwhileIluxuriouslyshudderedatit,Ihadtheadvantageofamellowlog—fireatmyback,purringandsoftlycracklinginaquietindifferencetothestorm。

Twenty—fourhoursmoremadeallsereneagain。Bloodcurdlingtalesoflobster—potscarriedtoseafilledtheair;buttheairwasasblandlyunconsciousofeverhavingbeenafuryasaladywhohasfoundherlosttemper。SwiftalternationsofweatheraresocharacteristicofourcolonialclimatethattheotherafternoonIwentoutwithmyumbrellaagainsttheraw,coldrainofthemorning,andhadtoraiseitagainstthebroilingsun。ThreedaysagoIcouldsaythatthegreenofthewoodshadnotouchofhecticinit;butalreadythelowtreesoftheswamp—landhaveflamedintocrimson。Everymorning,whenIlookout,thiscrimsonisofafierierintensity,andthetreesonthedistantuplandsarebeginningslowlytokindle,withasortofinnerglowwhichhasnotyetburstintoablaze。Hereandtherethegolden—rodisrusting;butthereseemsonlytobemoreandmoreasterssorts;andIhaveseenladiescominghomewithsheavesofbluegentians;Ihaveheardthattheorchidsarebeginningagaintolighttheirtenderlampsfromtheburningblackberryvinesthatstrayfromthepasturestotheedgeoftheswamps。

Afteranapparentlytotalevanescencetherehasbeenalikeresuscitationofthespiritofsummersociety。IntheverylastweekofSeptemberwehavegonetoasupper,whichlingeredfaroutofitsseasonlikeoneoftheselateflowers,andtherehasbeenanafternoonteawhichassembledanastonishingnumberofcottagers,allsecretlysurprisedtofindoneanotherstillhere,andprofessingopenlyapitytingedwithcontemptforthosewhoareherenolonger。

Iblamedthosewhohadgonehome,butImyselfsnifftheasphaltafar;

theroarofthestreetcallstomewiththemagicthatthevoiceoftheseaislosing。Justnowitshinesentreatingly,itshineswinningly,inthesunwhichismellowingtoanOctobertenderness,anditshinesunderamoonofperfectorb,whichseemstohavethewholeheavenstoitselfin\"thefirstwatchofthenight,\"exceptfor\"theredplanetMars。\"Thisbeginstoburninthewestbeforetheflushofsunsethaspassedfromit;

andthen,later,afewmoon—washedstarspiercethevastvaultwiththeirkeenpoints。Thestarswhichsopowderedthesummerskyseemmostlytohavegonebacktotown,wherenodoubtpeopletakethemforelectriclights。