Thedaybefore，myattentionhadfrequentlybeenattractedbythewildbeautiesofthecountrywepassedthrough.
Therockswhichtossedtheirfantasticheadssohighwereoftencoveredwithpinesandfirs，variedinthemostpicturesquemanner.
Littlewoodsfilleduptherecesseswhenforestsdidnotdarkenthescene，andvalleysandglens，clearedofthetrees，displayedadazzlingverdurewhichcontrastedwiththegloomoftheshadingpines.Theeyestoleintomanyacovertwheretranquillityseemedtohavetakenupherabode，andthenumberoflittlelakesthatcontinuallypresentedthemselvesaddedtothepeacefulcomposureofthescenery.Thelittlecultivationwhichappeareddidnotbreaktheenchantment，nordidcastlesreartheirturretsalofttocrushthecottages，andprovethatmanismoresavagethanthenativesofthewoods.Iheardofthebearsbutneversawthemstalkforth，whichIwassorryfor;Iwishedtohaveseenoneinitswildstate.
Inthewinter，Iamtold，theysometimescatchastraycow，whichisaheavylosstotheowner.
Thefarmsaresmall.Indeedmostofthehouseswesawontheroadindicatedpoverty，orratherthatthepeoplecouldjustlive.
Towardsthefrontierstheygrewworseandworseintheirappearance，asifnotwillingtoputsterilityitselfoutofcountenance.Nogardenssmiledroundthehabitations，notapotatoorcabbagetoeatwiththefishdryingonasticknearthedoor.Alittlegrainhereandthereappeared，thelongstalksofwhichyoumightalmostreckon.Thedaywasgloomywhenwepassedoverthisrejectedspot，thewindbleak，andwinterseemedtobecontendingwithnature，faintlystrugglingtochangetheseason.Surely，thoughtI，ifthesunevershineshereitcannotwarmthesestones;mossonlycleavestothem，partakingoftheirhardness，andnothinglikevegetablelifeappearstocheerwithhopetheheart.
SofarfromthinkingthattheprimitiveinhabitantsoftheworldlivedinasouthernclimatewhereParadisespontaneouslyarose，Iamledtoinfer，fromvariouscircumstances，thatthefirstdwellingofmanhappenedtobeaspotlikethiswhichledhimtoadoreasunsoseldomseen;forthisworship，whichprobablyprecededthatofdemonsordemigods，certainlyneverbeganinasouthernclimate，wherethecontinualpresenceofthesunpreventeditsbeingconsideredasagood;orratherthewantofitneverbeingfelt，thisgloriousluminarywouldcarelesslyhavediffuseditsblessingswithoutbeinghailedasabenefactor.Manmustthereforehavebeenplacedinthenorth，totempthimtorunafterthesun，inorderthatthedifferentpartsoftheearthmightbepeopled.NordoI
wonderthathordesofbarbariansalwayspouredoutoftheseregionstoseekformilderclimes，whennothinglikecultivationattachedthemtothesoil，especiallywhenwetakeintotheviewthattheadventuringspirit，commontoman，isnaturallystrongerandmoregeneralduringtheinfancyofsociety.TheconductofthefollowersofMahomet，andthecrusaders，willsufficientlycorroboratemyassertion.
ApproachingnearertoStromstad，theappearanceofthetownprovedtobequiteincharacterwiththecountrywehadjustpassedthrough.Ihesitatedtousethewordcountry，yetcouldnotfindanother;stillitwouldsoundabsurdtotalkoffieldsofrocks.
Thetownwasbuiltonandunderthem.Threeorfourweather—beatentreeswereshrinkingfromthewind，andthegrassgrewsosparinglythatIcouldnotavoidthinkingDr.Johnson’shyperbolicalassertion\"thatthemanmeritedwellofhiscountrywhomadeafewbladesofgrassgrowwheretheynevergrewbefore，\"mightherehavebeenutteredwithstrictpropriety.Thesteeplelikewisetoweredaloft，forwhatisachurch，evenamongsttheLutherans，withoutasteeple？
Buttopreventmischiefinsuchanexposedsituation，itiswiselyplacedonarockatsomedistancenottoendangertheroofofthechurch.
Ramblingabout，Isawthedooropen，andentered，whentomygreatsurpriseIfoundtheclergymanreadingprayers，withonlytheclerkattending.IinstantlythoughtofSwift’s\"DearlybelovedRoger，\"
butoninquiryIlearntthatsomeonehaddiedthatmorning，andinSwedenitiscustomarytoprayforthedead.
Thesun，whoIsuspectedneverdaredtoshine，begannowtoconvincemethathecameforthonlytotorment;forthoughthewindwasstillcutting，therocksbecameintolerablywarmundermyfeet，whilsttheherringeffluvia，whichIbeforefoundsoveryoffensive，oncemoreassailedme.Ihastenedbacktothehouseofamerchant，thelittlesovereignoftheplace，becausehewasbyfartherichest，thoughnotthemayor.
Hereweweremosthospitablyreceived，andintroducedtoaveryfineandnumerousfamily.Ihavebeforementionedtoyoutheliliesofthenorth，Imighthaveadded，waterlilies，forthecomplexionofmany，evenoftheyoungwomen，seemtobebleachedonthebosomofsnow.Butinthisyouthfulcircletherosesbloomedwithalltheirwontedfreshness，andIwonderedfromwhencethefirewasstolenwhichsparkledintheirfineblueeyes.
Hereweslept;andIroseearlyinthemorningtoprepareformylittlevoyagetoNorway.Ihaddeterminedtogobywater，andwastoleavemycompanionsbehind;butnotgettingaboatimmediately，andthewindbeinghighandunfavourable，Iwastoldthatitwasnotsafetogotoseaduringsuchboisterousweather;Iwas，therefore，obligedtowaitforthemorrow，andhadthepresentdayonmyhands，whichIfearedwouldbeirksome，becausethefamily，whopossessedaboutadozenFrenchwordsamongstthemandnotanEnglishphrase，wereanxioustoamuseme，andwouldnotletmeremainaloneinmyroom.Thetownwehadalreadywalkedroundandround，andifweadvancedfartheronthecoast，itwasstilltoviewthesameunvariedimmensityofwatersurroundedbybarrenness.
Thegentlemen，wishingtopeepintoNorway，proposedgoingtoFredericshall，thefirsttown——thedistancewasonlythreeSwedishmiles.Thereandbackagainwasbutaday’sjourney，andwouldnot，Ithought，interferewithmyvoyage.Iagreed，andinvitedtheeldestandprettiestofthegirlstoaccompanyus.IinvitedherbecauseIliketoseeabeautifulfaceanimatedbypleasure，andtohaveanopportunityofregardingthecountry，whilstthegentlemenwereamusingthemselveswithher.
Ididnotknow，forIhadnotthoughtofit，thatweweretoscalesomeofthemostmountainouscliffsofSwedeninourwaytotheferrywhichseparatesthetwocountries.
Enteringamongstthecliffs，wewereshelteredfromthewind，warmsunbeamsbegantoplay，streamstoflow，andgrovesofpinesdiversifiedtherocks.Sometimestheybecamesuddenlybareandsublime.Once，inparticular，aftermountingthemostterrificprecipice，wehadtopassthroughatremendousdefile，wheretheclosingchasmseemedtothreatenuswithinstantdestruction，when，turningquickly，verdantmeadowsandabeautifullakerelievedandcharmedmyeyes.
IhadnevertravelledthroughSwitzerland，butoneofmycompanionsassuredmethatIshouldnottherefindanythingsuperior，ifequal，tothewildgrandeuroftheseviews.
Aswehadnottakenthisexcursionintoourplan，thehorseshadnotbeenpreviouslyordered，whichobligedustowaittwohoursatthefirstpost.Thedaywaswearingaway.Theroadwassobadthatwalkinguptheprecipicesconsumedthetimeinsensibly;butaswedesiredhorsesateachpostreadyatacertainhour，wereckonedonreturningmorespeedily.
Westoppedtodineatatolerablefarm;theybroughtusoutham，butter，cheese，andmilk，andthechargewassomoderatethatI
scatteredalittlemoneyamongstthechildrenwhowerepeepingatus，inordertopaythemfortheirtrouble.
Arrivedattheferry，wewerestilldetained，forthepeoplewhoattendattheferrieshaveastupidkindofsluggishnessintheirmanner，whichisveryprovokingwhenyouareinhaste.AtpresentI
didnotfeelit，for，scramblingupthecliffs，myeyefollowedtheriverasitrolledbetweenthegrandrockybanks;and，tocompletethescenery，theywerecoveredwithfirsandpines，throughwhichthewindrustledasifitwerelullingitselftosleepwiththedecliningsun.
BeholdusnowinNorway;andIcouldnotavoidfeelingsurpriseatobservingthedifferenceinthemannersoftheinhabitantsofthetwosidesoftheriver，foreverythingshowsthattheNorwegiansaremoreindustriousandmoreopulent.TheSwedes（forneighboursareseldomthebestfriends）accusetheNorwegiansofknavery，andtheyretaliatebybringingachargeofhypocrisyagainsttheSwedes.
Localcircumstancesprobablyrenderbothunjust，speakingfromtheirfeelingsratherthanreason;andisthisastonishingwhenweconsiderthatmostwritersoftravelshavedonethesame，whoseworkshaveservedasmaterialsforthecompilersofuniversalhistories？Allareeagertogiveanationalcharacter，whichisrarelyjust，becausetheydonotdiscriminatethenaturalfromtheacquireddifference.Thenatural，Ibelieve，ondueconsideration，willbefoundtoconsistmerelyinthedegreeofvivacity，orthoughtfulness，pleasuresorpain，inspiredbytheclimate，whilstthevarietieswhichtheformsofgovernment，includingreligion，producearemuchmorenumerousandunstable.
Apeoplehavebeencharacterisedasstupidbynature;whataparadox！becausetheydidnotconsiderthatslaves，havingnoobjecttostimulateindustry;havenottheirfacultiessharpenedbytheonlythingthatcanexercisethem，self—interest.Othershavebeenbroughtforwardasbrutes，havingnoaptitudefortheartsandsciences，onlybecausetheprogressofimprovementhadnotreachedthatstagewhichproducesthem.
Thosewriterswhohaveconsideredthehistoryofman，orofthehumanmind，onamoreenlargedscalehavefallenintosimilarerrors，notreflectingthatthepassionsareweakwherethenecessariesoflifearetoohardlyortooeasilyobtained.
Travellerswhorequirethateverynationshouldresembletheirnativecountry，hadbetterstayathome.Itis，forexample，absurdtoblameapeoplefornothavingthatdegreeofpersonalcleanlinessandeleganceofmannerswhichonlyrefinementoftasteproduces，andwillproduceeverywhereinproportionassocietyattainsageneralpolish.Themostessentialservice，Ipresume，thatauthorscouldrendertosociety，wouldbetopromoteinquiryanddiscussion，insteadofmakingthosedogmaticalassertionswhichonlyappearcalculatedtogirdthehumanmindroundwithimaginarycircles，likethepaperglobewhichrepresentstheoneheinhabits.
Thisspiritofinquiryisthecharacteristicofthepresentcentury，fromwhichthesucceedingwill，Iampersuaded，receiveagreataccumulationofknowledge;anddoubtlessitsdiffusionwillinagreatmeasuredestroythefactitiousnationalcharacterswhichhavebeensupposedpermanent，thoughonlyrenderedsobythepermanencyofignorance.
ArrivingatFredericshall，atthesiegeofwhichCharlesXII.losthislife，wehadonlytimetotakeatransientviewofitwhilsttheywerepreparingussomerefreshment.
PoorCharles！Ithoughtofhimwithrespect.IhavealwaysfeltthesameforAlexander，withwhomhehasbeenclassedasamadmanbyseveralwriters，whohavereasonedsuperficially，confoundingthemoralsofthedaywiththefewgrandprinciplesonwhichunchangeablemoralityrests.Makingnoallowancefortheignoranceandprejudicesoftheperiod，theydonotperceivehowmuchtheythemselvesareindebtedtogeneralimprovementfortheacquirements，andeventhevirtues，whichtheywouldnothavehadtheforceofmindtoattainbytheirindividualexertionsinalessadvancedstateofsociety.
Theeveningwasfine，asisusualatthisseason，andtherefreshingodourofthepinewoodsbecamemoreperceptible，foritwasnineo’clockwhenweleftFredericshall.AttheferryweweredetainedbyadisputerelativetoourSwedishpassport，whichwedidnotthinkofgettingcountersignedinNorway.Midnightwascomingon，yetitmightwithsuchproprietyhavebeentermedthenoonofnightthat，hadYoungevertravelledtowardsthenorth，Ishouldnothavewonderedathisbecomingenamouredofthemoon.ButitisnottheQueenofNightalonewhoreignshereinallhersplendour，thoughthesun，loiteringjustbelowthehorizon，decksherwithinagoldentingefromhiscar，illuminatingthecliffsthathidehim;theheavensalso，ofaclearsoftenedblue，throwherforward，andtheeveningstarappearsasmallermoontothenakedeye.Thehugeshadowsoftherocks，fringedwithfirs，concentratingtheviewswithoutdarkeningthem，excitedthattendermelancholywhich，sublimatingtheimagination，exaltsratherthandepressesthemind.
Mycompanionsfellasleep——fortunatelytheydidnotsnore;andI
contemplated，fearlessofidlequestions，anightsuchasIhadneverbeforeseenorfelt，tocharmthesenses，andcalmtheheart.
Theveryairwasbalmyasitfreshenedintomorn，producingthemostvoluptuoussensations.Avaguepleasurablesentimentabsorbedme，asIopenedmybosomtotheembracesofnature;andmysoulrosetoitsAuthor，withthechirpingofthesolitarybirds，whichbegantofeel，ratherthansee，advancingday.Ihadleisuretomarkitsprogress.Thegreymorn，streakedwithsilveryrays，usheredintheorientbeams（howbeautifullyvaryingintopurple！），yetIwassorrytolosethesoftwaterycloudswhichprecededthem，excitingakindofexpectationthatmademealmostafraidtobreathe，lestIshouldbreakthecharm.Isawthesun——andsighed.
Oneofmycompanions，nowawake，perceivingthatthepostillionhadmistakentheroad，begantoswearathim，androusedtheothertwo，whoreluctantlyshookoffsleep.
Wehadimmediatelytomeasurebackoursteps，anddidnotreachStromstadbeforefiveinthemorning.
Thewindhadchangedinthenight，andmyboatwasready.
Adishofcoffee，andfreshlinen，recruitedmyspirits，andI
directlysetoutagainforNorway，purposingtolandmuchhigherupthecoast.
Wrappingmygreat—coatroundme，Ilaydownonsomesailsatthebottomoftheboat，itsmotionrockingmetorest，tilladiscourteouswaveinterruptedmyslumbers，andobligedmetoriseandfeelasolitarinesswhichwasnotsosoothingasthatofthepastnight.
Adieu！
LETTERVI.
Theseawasboisterous，but，asIhadanexperiencedpilot，Ididnotapprehendanydanger.Sometimes，Iwastold，boatsaredrivenfaroutandlost.However，Iseldomcalculatechancessonicely——
sufficientforthedayistheobviousevil！
Wehadtosteeramongstislandsandhugerocks，rarelylosingsightoftheshore，thoughitnowandthenappearedonlyamistthatborderedthewater’sedge.ThepilotassuredmethatthenumerousharboursontheNorwaycoastwereverysafe，andthepilot—boatswerealwaysonthewatch.TheSwedishsideisverydangerous，Iamalsoinformed;andthehelpofexperienceisnotoftenathandtoenablestrangevesselstosteerclearoftherocks，whichlurkbelowthewaterclosetotheshore.
Therearenotideshere，norintheCattegate，and，whatappearedtomeaconsequence，nosandybeach.Perhapsthisobservationhasbeenmadebefore;butitdidnotoccurtometillIsawthewavescontinuallybeatingagainstthebarerocks，withouteverrecedingtoleaveasedimenttoharden.
Thewindwasfair，tillwehadtotackaboutinordertoenterLaurvig，wherewearrivedtowardsthreeo’clockintheafternoon.
Itisaclean，pleasanttown，withaconsiderableiron—work，whichgiveslifetoit.
AstheNorwegiansdonotfrequentlyseetravellers，theyareverycurioustoknowtheirbusiness，andwhotheyare——socurious，thatI
washalftemptedtoadoptDr.Franklin’splan，whentravellinginAmerica，wheretheyareequallyprying，whichwastowriteonapaper，forpublicinspection，myname，fromwhenceIcame，whereI
wasgoing，andwhatwasmybusiness.ButifIwereimportunedbytheircuriosity，theirfriendlygesturesgratifiedme.Awomancomingaloneinterestedthem.AndIknownotwhethermywearinessgavemealookofpeculiardelicacy，buttheyapproachedtoassistme，andinquireaftermywants，asiftheywereafraidtohurt，andwishedtoprotectme.ThesympathyIinspired，thusdroppingdownfromthecloudsinastrangeland，affectedmemorethanitwouldhavedonehadnotmyspiritsbeenharassedbyvariouscauses——bymuchthinking——musingalmosttomadness——andevenbyasortofweakmelancholythathungaboutmyheartatpartingwithmydaughterforthefirsttime.
Youknowthat，asafemale，Iamparticularlyattachedtoher;I
feelmorethanamother’sfondnessandanxietywhenIreflectonthedependentandoppressedstateofhersex.Idreadlestsheshouldbeforcedtosacrificeherhearttoherprinciples，orprinciplestoherheart.WithtremblinghandIshallcultivatesensibilityandcherishdelicacyofsentiment，lest，whilstIlendfreshblushestotherose，IsharpenthethornsthatwillwoundthebreastIwouldfainguard;Idreadtounfoldhermind，lestitshouldrenderherunfitfortheworldsheistoinhabit.Haplesswoman！whatafateisthine！
ButwhitheramIwandering？Ionlymeanttotellyouthattheimpressionthekindnessofthesimplepeoplemadevisibleonmycountenanceincreasedmysensibilitytoapainfuldegree.Iwishedtohavehadaroomtomyself，fortheirattention，andratherdistressingobservation，embarrassedmeextremely.Yet，astheywouldbringmeeggs，andmakemycoffee，IfoundIcouldnotleavethemwithouthurtingtheirfeelingsofhospitality.
Itiscustomaryhereforthehostandhostesstowelcometheirguestsasmasterandmistressofthehouse.
Myclothes，intheirturn，attractedtheattentionofthefemales，andIcouldnothelpthinkingofthefoolishvanitywhichmakesmanywomensoproudoftheobservationofstrangersastotakewonderverygratuitouslyforadmiration.Thiserrortheyareveryapttofallintowhen，arrivedinaforeigncountry，thepopulacestareatthemastheypass.Yetthemakeofacaporthesingularityofagownisoftenthecauseoftheflatteringattentionwhichafterwardssupportsafantasticsuperstructureofself—conceit.
Nothavingbroughtacarriageoverwithme，expectingtohavemetapersonwhereIlanded，whowasimmediatelytohaveprocuredmeone，Iwasdetainedwhilstthegoodpeopleoftheinnsentroundtoalltheiracquaintancetosearchforavehicle.Arudesortofcabriolewasatlastfound，andadriverhalfdrunk，whowasnotlesseagertomakeagoodbargainonthataccount.IhadaDanishcaptainofashipandhismatewithme;theformerwastorideonhorseback，atwhichhewasnotveryexpert，andthelattertopartakeofmyseat.
Thedrivermountedbehindtoguidethehorsesandflourishthewhipoverourshoulders;hewouldnotsufferthereinsoutofhisownhands.TherewassomethingsogrotesqueinourappearancethatI
couldnotavoidshrinkingintomyselfwhenIsawagentleman—likemaninthegroupwhichcrowdedroundthedoortoobserveus.I
couldhavebrokenthedriver’swhipforcrackingtocallthewomenandchildrentogether，butseeingasignificantsmileontheface，I
hadbeforeremarked，Iburstintoalaughtoallowhimtodosotoo，andawayweflew.Thisisnotaflourishofthepen，forweactuallywentonfullgallopalongtime，thehorsesbeingverygood;indeed，Ihavenevermetwithbetter，ifsogood，post—horsesasinNorway.TheyareofastoutermakethantheEnglishhorses，appeartobewellfed，andarenoteasilytired.
Ihadtopassover，Iwasinformed，themostfertileandbestcultivatedtractofcountryinNorway.ThedistancewasthreeNorwegianmiles，whicharelongerthantheSwedish.Theroadswereverygood;thefarmersareobligedtorepairthem;andwescamperedthroughagreatextentofcountryinamoreimprovedstatethananyIhadviewedsinceIleftEngland.Stilltherewassufficientofhills，dales，androckstopreventtheideaofaplainfromenteringthehead，orevenofsuchsceneryasEnglandandFranceafford.Theprospectswerealsoembellishedbywater，rivers，andlakesbeforetheseaproudlyclaimedmyregard，andtheroadrunningfrequentlythroughloftygrovesrenderedthelandscapesbeautiful，thoughtheywerenotsoromanticasthoseIhadlatelyseenwithsuchdelight.
ItwaslatewhenIreachedTonsberg，andIwasgladtogotobedatadecentinn.Thenextmorningthe17thofJuly，conversingwiththegentlemanwithwhomIhadbusinesstotransact，IfoundthatI
shouldbedetainedatTonsbergthreeweeks，andIlamentedthatI
hadnotbroughtmychildwithme.
Theinnwasquiet，andmyroomsopleasant，commandingaviewofthesea，confinedbyanamphitheatreofhangingwoods，thatIwishedtoremainthere，thoughnooneinthehousecouldspeakEnglishorFrench.Themayor，myfriend，however，sentayoungwomantomewhospokealittleEnglish，andsheagreedtocallonmetwiceadaytoreceivemyordersandtranslatethemtomyhostess.
Mynotunderstandingthelanguagewasanexcellentpretextfordiningalone，whichIprevailedonthemtoletmedoatalatehour，fortheearlydinnersinSwedenhadentirelyderangedmyday.I
couldnotalterittherewithoutdisturbingtheeconomyofafamilywhereIwasasavisitor，necessityhavingforcedmetoacceptofaninvitationfromaprivatefamily，thelodgingsweresoincommodious.
AmongsttheNorwegiansIhadthearrangementofmyowntime，andI
determinedtoregulateitinsuchamannerthatImightenjoyasmuchoftheirsweetsummerasIpossiblycould;short，itistrue，but\"passingsweet.\"
Ineverenduredawinterinthisrudeclime，consequentlyitwasnotthecontrast，buttherealbeautyoftheseasonwhichmadethepresentsummerappeartomethefinestIhadeverseen.Shelteredfromthenorthandeasternwinds，nothingcanexceedthesalubrity，thesoftfreshnessofthewesterngales.Intheeveningtheyalsodieaway;theaspenleavestrembleintostillness，andreposingnatureseemstobewarmedbythemoon，whichhereassumesagenialaspect.Andifalightshowerhaschancedtofallwiththesun，thejuniper，theunderwoodoftheforest，exhalesawildperfume，mixedwithathousandnamelesssweetsthat，soothingtheheart，leaveimagesinthememorywhichtheimaginationwilleverholddear.
Natureisthenurseofsentiment，thetruesourceoftaste;yetwhatmisery，aswellasrapture，isproducedbyaquickperceptionofthebeautifulandsublimewhenitisexercisedinobservinganimatednature，wheneverybeauteousfeelingandemotionexcitesresponsivesympathy，andtheharmonisedsoulsinksintomelancholyorrisestoecstasy，justasthechordsaretouched，liketheAEolianharpagitatedbythechangingwind.Buthowdangerousisittofosterthesesentimentsinsuchanimperfectstateofexistence，andhowdifficulttoeradicatethemwhenanaffectionformankind，apassionforanindividual，isbuttheunfoldingofthatlovewhichembracesallthatisgreatandbeautiful！
Whenawarmhearthasreceivedstrongimpressions，theyarenottobeeffaced.Emotionsbecomesentiments，andtheimaginationrenderseventransientsensationspermanentbyfondlyretracingthem.I
cannot，withoutathrillofdelight，recollectviewsIhaveseen，whicharenottobeforgotten，norlooksIhavefeltineverynerve，whichIshallnevermoremeet.Thegravehasclosedoveradearfriend，thefriendofmyyouth.Stillsheispresentwithme，andI
hearhersoftvoicewarblingasIstrayovertheheath.Fatehasseparatedmefromanother，thefireofwhoseeyes，temperedbyinfantinetenderness，stillwarmsmybreast;evenwhengazingonthesetremendouscliffssublimeemotionsabsorbmysoul.And，smilenot，ifIaddthattherosytintofmorningremindsmeofasuffusionwhichwillnevermorecharmmysenses，unlessitreappearsonthecheeksofmychild.HersweetblushesImayyethideinmybosom，andsheisstilltooyoungtoaskwhystartsthetearsonearakintopleasureandpain.
Icannotwriteanymoreatpresent.To—morrowwewilltalkofTonsberg.
LETTERVII.
ThoughthekingofDenmarkbeanabsolutemonarch，yettheNorwegiansappeartoenjoyalltheblessingsoffreedom.Norwaymaybetermedasisterkingdom;butthepeoplehavenoviceroytolorditoverthem，andfattenhisdependantswiththefruitoftheirlabour.
Thereareonlytwocountsinthewholecountrywhohaveestates，andexactsomefeudalobservancesfromtheirtenantry.Alltherestofthecountryisdividedintosmallfarms，whichbelongtothecultivator.Itistruesomefew，appertainingtotheChurch，arelet，butalwaysonaleaseforlife，generallyrenewedinfavouroftheeldestson，whohasthisadvantageaswellasarighttoadoubleportionoftheproperty.Butthevalueofthefarmisestimated，andafterhisportionisassignedtohimhemustbeanswerablefortheresiduetotheremainingpartofthefamily.
Everyfarmerfortenyearsisobligedtoattendannuallyabouttwelvedaystolearnthemilitaryexercise，butitisalwaysatasmalldistancefromhisdwelling，anddoesnotleadhimintoanynewhabitsoflife.
ThereareaboutsixthousandregularsalsoingarrisonatChristianiaandFredericshall，whoareequallyreserved，withthemilitia，forthedefenceoftheirowncountry.SothatwhenthePrinceRoyalpassedintoSwedenin1788，hewasobligedtorequest，notcommand，themtoaccompanyhimonthisexpedition.
Thesecorpsaremostlycomposedofthesonsofthecottagers，whobeinglabourersonthefarms，areallowedafewacrestocultivateforthemselves.Thesemenvoluntarilyenlist，butitisonlyforalimitedperiod（sixyears），attheexpirationofwhichtheyhavethelibertyofretiring.Thepayisonlytwopenceadayandbread;
still，consideringthecheapnessofthecountry，itismorethansixpenceinEngland.
ThedistributionoflandedpropertyintosmallfarmsproducesadegreeofequalitywhichIhaveseldomseenelsewhere;andtherichbeingallmerchants，whoareobligedtodividetheirpersonalfortuneamongsttheirchildren，theboysalwaysreceivingtwiceasmuchasthegirls，propertyhasmetachanceofaccumulatingtillovergrowingwealthdestroysthebalanceofliberty.
Youwillbesurprisedtohearmetalkofliberty;yettheNorwegiansappeartometobethemostfreecommunityIhaveeverobserved.
Themayorofeachtownordistrict，andthejudgesinthecountry，exerciseanauthorityalmostpatriarchal.Theycandomuchgood，butlittleharm，——aseveryindividualcanappealfromtheirjudgment;andastheymayalwaysbeforcedtogiveareasonfortheirconduct，itisgenerallyregulatedbyprudence.\"Theyhavenottimetolearntobetyrants，\"saidagentlemantome，withwhomIdiscussedthesubject.
Thefarmersnotfearingtobeturnedoutoftheirfarms，shouldtheydispleaseamaninpower，andhavingnovotetobecommandedatanelectionforamockrepresentative，areamanlyrace;fornotbeingobligedtosubmittoanydebasingtenureinordertolive，oradvancethemselvesintheworld，theyactwithanindependentspirit.Ineveryethaveheardofanythinglikedomineeringoroppression，exceptingsuchashasarisenfromnaturalcauses.Thefreedomthepeopleenjoymay，perhaps，renderthemalittlelitigious，andsubjectthemtotheimpositionsofcunningpractitionersofthelaw;buttheauthorityofofficeisbounded，andtheemolumentsofitdonotdestroyitsutility.
Lastyearamanwhohadabusedhispowerwascashiered，ontherepresentationofthepeopletothebailiffofthedistrict.
TherearefourinNorwaywhomightwithproprietybetermedsheriffs;andfromtheirsentenceanappeal，byeitherparty，maybemadetoCopenhagen.
Nearmostofthetownsarecommons，onwhichthecowsofalltheinhabitants，indiscriminately，areallowedtograze.Thepoor，towhomacowisnecessary，arealmostsupportedbyit.Besides，torenderlivingmoreeasy，theyallgoouttofishintheirownboats，andfishistheirprincipalfood.
Thelowerclassofpeopleinthetownsareingeneralsailors;andtheindustrioushaveusuallylittleventuresoftheirownthatservetorenderthewintercomfortable.
Withrespecttothecountryatlarge，theimportationisconsiderablyinfavourofNorway.
Theyareforbidden，atpresent，toexportcornorryeonaccountoftheadvancedprice.
TherestrictionwhichmostresemblesthepainfulsubordinationofIreland，isthatvessels，tradingtotheWestIndies，areobligedtopassbytheirownports，andunloadtheircargoesatCopenhagen，whichtheyafterwardsreship.Thedutyisindeedinconsiderable，butthenavigationbeingdangerous，theyrunadoublerisk.
Thereisanexciseonallarticlesofconsumptionbroughttothetowns;buttheofficersarenotstrict，anditwouldbereckonedinvidioustoenterahousetosearch，asinEngland.
TheNorwegiansappeartomeasensible，shrewdpeople，withlittlescientificknowledge，andstilllesstasteforliterature;buttheyarearrivingattheepochwhichprecedestheintroductionoftheartsandsciences.
Mostofthetownsareseaports，andseaportsarenotfavourabletoimprovement.Thecaptainsacquirealittlesuperficialknowledgebytravelling，whichtheirindefatigableattentiontothemakingofmoneypreventstheirdigesting;andthefortunethattheythuslaboriouslyacquireisspent，asitusuallyisintownsofthisdescription，inshowandgoodliving.Theylovetheircountry，buthavenotmuchpublicspirit.Theirexertionsare，generallyspeaking，onlyfortheirfamilies，which，Iconceive，willalwaysbethecase，tillpolitics，becomingasubjectofdiscussion，enlargestheheartbyopeningtheunderstanding.TheFrenchRevolutionwillhavethiseffect.Theysing，atpresent，withgreatglee，manyRepublicansongs，andseemearnestlytowishthattherepublicmaystand;yettheyappearverymuchattachedtotheirPrinceRoyal，and，asfarasrumourcangiveanideaofacharacter，heappearstomerittheirattachment.WhenIamatCopenhagen，Ishallbeabletoascertainonwhatfoundationtheirgoodopinionisbuilt;atpresentIamonlytheechoofit.
Intheyear1788hetravelledthroughNorway;andactsofmercygavedignitytotheparade，andinteresttothejoyhispresenceinspired.Atthistownhepardonedagirlcondemnedtodieformurderinganillegitimatechild，acrimeseldomcommittedinthiscountry.Sheissincemarried，andbecomethecarefulmotherofafamily.Thismightbegivenasaninstance，thatadesperateactisnotalwaysaproofofanincorrigibledepravityofcharacter，theonlyplausibleexcusethathasbeenbroughtforwardtojustifytheinflictionofcapitalpunishments.
Iwillrelatetwoorthreeotheranecdotestoyou，forthetruthofwhichIwillnotvouchbecausethefactswerenotofsufficientconsequenceformetotakemuchpainstoascertainthem;and，trueorfalse，theyevincethatthepeopleliketomakeakindofmistressoftheirprince.
Anofficer，mortallywoundedattheill—advisedbattleofQuistram，desiredtospeakwiththeprince;andwithhisdyingbreath，earnestlyrecommendedtohiscareayoungwomanofChristiania，towhomhewasengaged.Whentheprincereturnedthere，aballwasgivenbythechiefinhabitants：heinquiredwhetherthisunfortunategirlwasinvited，andrequestedthatshemight，thoughofthesecondclass.Thegirlcame;shewaspretty;andfindingherselfamonghersuperiors，bashfullysatdownasnearthedooraspossible，nobodytakingnoticeofher.Shortlyafter，theprinceentering，immediatelyinquiredforher，andaskedhertodance，tothemortificationoftherichdames.Afteritwasoverhehandedhertothetopoftheroom，andplacinghimselfbyher，spokeofthelossshehadsustained，withtenderness，promisingtoprovideforanyonesheshouldmarry，asthestorygoes.Sheissincemarried，andhehasnotforgottenhispromise.
Alittlegirl，duringthesameexpedition，inSweden，whoinformedhimthatthelogsofabridgewereoutunderneath，wastakenbyhisorderstoChristiania，andputtoschoolathisexpense.
BeforeIretailotherbeneficialeffectsofhisjourney，itisnecessarytoinformyouthatthelawsherearemild，anddonotpunishcapitallyforanycrimebutmurder，whichseldomoccurs.
Everyotheroffencemerelysubjectsthedelinquenttoimprisonmentandlabourinthecastle，orratherarsenalatChristiania，andthefortressatFredericshall.Thefirstandsecondconvictionproducesasentenceforalimitednumberofyears——two，three，five，orseven，proportionedtotheatrocityofthecrime.Afterthethirdheiswhipped，brandedintheforehead，andcondemnedtoperpetualslavery.Thisistheordinarycourseofjustice.Forsomeflagrantbreachesoftrust，oractsofwantoncruelty，criminalshavebeencondemnedtoslaveryforlifetimefirsttheofconviction，butnotfrequently.Thenumberoftheseslavesdonot，Iaminformed，amounttomorethanahundred，whichisnotconsiderable，comparedwiththepopulation，upwardsofeighthundredthousand.ShouldI
passthroughChristiania，onmyreturntoGothenburg，Ishallprobablyhaveanopportunityoflearningotherparticulars.
ThereisalsoaHouseofCorrectionatChristianiafortriflingmisdemeanours，wherethewomenareconfinedtolabourandimprisonmentevenforlife.Thestateoftheprisonerswasrepresentedtotheprince，inconsequenceofwhichhevisitedthearsenalandHouseofCorrection.Theslavesatthearsenalwereloadedwithironsofagreatweight;heorderedthemtobelightenedasmuchaspossible.
ThepeopleintheHouseofCorrectionwerecommandednottospeaktohim;butfourwomen，condemnedtoremainthereforlife，gotintothepassage，andfellathisfeet.Hegrantedthemapardon;andinquiringrespectingthetreatmentoftheprisoners，hewasinformedthattheywerefrequentlywhippedgoingin，andcomingout，andforanyfault，atthediscretionoftheinspectors.Thiscustomhehumanelyabolished，thoughsomeoftheprincipalinhabitants，whosesituationinlifehadraisedthemabovethetemptationofstealing，wereofopinionthatthesechastisementswerenecessaryandwholesome.
Inshort，everythingseemstoannouncethattheprincereallycherishesthelaudableambitionoffulfillingthedutiesofhisstation.ThisambitionischerishedanddirectedbytheCountBernstorff，thePrimeMinisterofDenmark，whoisuniversallycelebratedforhisabilitiesandvirtue.Thehappinessofthepeopleisasubstantialeulogium;and，fromallIcangather，theinhabitantsofDenmarkandNorwayaretheleastoppressedpeopleofEurope.Thepressisfree.TheytranslateanyoftheFrenchpublicationsoftheday，delivertheiropiniononthesubject，anddiscussthoseitleadstowithgreatfreedom，andwithoutfearingtodispleasetheGovernment.
Onthesubjectofreligiontheyarelikewisebecomingtolerant，atleast，andperhapshaveadvancedastepfurtherinfree—thinking.
OnewriterhasventuredtodenythedivinityofJesusChrist，andtoquestionthenecessityorutilityoftheChristiansystem，withoutbeingconsidereduniversallyasamonster，whichwouldhavebeenthecaseafewyearsago.TheyhavetranslatedmanyGermanworksoneducation;andthoughtheyhavenotadoptedanyoftheirplans，ithasbecomeasubjectofdiscussion.Therearesomegrammarandfreeschools;but，fromwhatIhear，notverygoodones.Allthechildrenlearntoread，write，andcastaccounts，forthepurposesofcommonlife.Theyhavenouniversity;andnothingthatdeservesthenameofscienceistaught;nordoindividuals，bypursuinganybranchofknowledge，exciteadegreeofcuriositywhichistheforerunnerofimprovement.Knowledgeisnotabsolutelynecessarytoenableaconsiderableportionofthecommunitytolive;and，tillitis，Ifearitneverbecomesgeneral.
Inthiscountry，wheremineralsabound，thereisnotonecollection;
and，inallprobability，Iventureaconjecture，thewantofmechanicalandchemicalknowledgerendersthesilverminesunproductive，forthequantityofsilverobtainedeveryyearisnotsufficienttodefraytheexpenses.Ithasbeenurgedthattheemploymentofsuchanumberofhandsisverybeneficial.Butapositivelossisnevertobedoneaway;andthemen，thusemployed，wouldnaturallyfindsomeothermeansofliving，insteadofbeingthusadeadweightonGovernment，orratheronthecommunityfromwhomitsrevenueisdrawn.
AboutthreeEnglishmilesfromTonsbergthereisasaltwork，belonging，likealltheirestablishments，toGovernment，inwhichtheyemployaboveahundredandfiftymen，andmaintainnearlyfivehundredpeople，whoearntheirliving.Theclearprofit，anincreasingone，amountstotwothousandpoundssterling.Andastheeldestsonoftheinspector，aningeniousyoungman，hasbeensentbytheGovernmenttotravel，andacquiresomemathematicalandchemicalknowledgeinGermany，ithasachanceofbeingimproved.
HeistheonlypersonIhavemetwithherewhoappearstohaveascientificturnofmind.IdonotmeantoassertthatIhavenotmetwithotherswhohaveaspiritofinquiry.
Thesalt—worksatSt.Ubesarebasinsinthesand，andthesunproducestheevaporation，butherethereisnobeach.Besides，theheatofsummerissoshort—livedthatitwouldbeidletocontrivemachinesforsuchaninconsiderableportionoftheyear.Theythereforealwaysusefires;andthewholeestablishmentappearstoberegulatedwithjudgment.
Thesituationiswellchosenandbeautiful.Idonotfind，fromtheobservationofapersonwhohasresidedhereforfortyyears，thattheseaadvancesorrecedesonthiscoast.
Ihavealreadyremarkedthatlittleattentionispaidtoeducation，exceptingreading，writing，andtherudimentsofarithmetic;Ioughttohaveaddedthatacatechismiscarefullytaught，andthechildrenobligedtoreadinthechurches，beforethecongregation，toprovethattheyarenotneglected.
Degrees，toenableanyonetopractiseanyprofession，mustbetakenatCopenhagen;andthepeopleofthiscountry，havingthegoodsensetoperceivethatmenwhoaretoliveinacommunityshouldatleastacquiretheelementsoftheirknowledge，andformtheiryouthfulattachmentsthere，areseriouslyendeavouringtoestablishauniversityinNorway.AndTonsberg，asacentralplaceinthebestpartofthecountry，hadthemostsuffrages，for，experiencingthebadeffectsofametropolis，theyhavedeterminednottohaveitinornearChristiania.Shouldsuchanestablishmenttakeplace，itwillpromoteinquirythroughoutthecountry，andgiveanewfacetosociety.Premiumshavebeenoffered，andprizequestionswritten，whichIamtoldhavemerit.Thebuildingcollege—halls，andotherappendagesoftheseatofscience，mightenableTonsbergtorecoveritspristineconsequence，foritisoneofthemostancienttownsofNorway，andoncecontainedninechurches.Atpresentthereareonlytwo.Oneisaveryoldstructure，andhasaGothicrespectabilityaboutit，whichscarcelyamountstograndeur，because，torenderaGothicpilegrand，itmusthaveahugeunwieldinessofappearance.
ThechapelofWindsormaybeanexceptiontothisrule;Imeanbeforeitwasinitspresentnice，cleanstate.WhenIfirstsawit，thepillarswithinhadacquired，bytime，asombrehue，whichaccordedwiththearchitecture;andthegloomincreaseditsdimensionstotheeyebyhidingitsparts;butnowitallburstsontheviewatonce，andthesublimityhasvanishedbeforethebrushandbroom;forithasbeenwhite—washedandscrapedtillithasbecomeasbrightandneatasthepotsandpansinanotablehouse—
wife’skitchen——yes;theveryspursontherecumbentknightsweredeprivedoftheirvenerablerust，togiveastrikingproofthataloveoforderintrifles，andtasteforproportionandarrangement，areverydistinct.Theglareoflightthusintroducedentirelydestroysthesentimentthesepilesarecalculatedtoinspire;sothat，whenIheardsomethinglikeajigfromtheorgan—loft，I
thoughtitanexcellenthallfordancingorfeasting.ThemeasuredpaceofthoughtwithwhichIhadenteredthecathedralchangedintoatrip;andIboundedontheterrace，toseetheroyalfamily，withanumberofridiculousimagesinmyheadthatIshallnotnowrecall.
TheNorwegiansarefondofmusic，andeverylittlechurchhasanorgan.InthechurchIhavementionedthereisaninscriptionimportingthatakingJamesVI.ofScotlandandI.ofEngland，whocamewithmorethanprincelygallantrytoescorthisbridehome——
stoodthere，andhearddivineservice.
Thereisalittlerecessfullofcoffins，whichcontainsbodiesembalmedlongsince——solong，thatthereisnotevenatraditiontoleadtoaguessattheirnames.
Adesireofpreservingthebodyseemstohaveprevailedinmostcountriesoftheworld，futileasitistotermitapreservation，whenthenoblestpartsareimmediatelysacrificedmerelytosavethemuscles，skin，andbonefromrottenness.WhenIwasshownthesehumanpetrifactions，Ishrankbackwithdisgustandhorror.\"Ashestoashes！\"thoughtI——\"Dusttodust！\"Ifthisbenotdissolution，itissomethingworsethannaturaldecay——itistreasonagainsthumanity，thustoliftuptheawfulveilwhichwouldfainhideitsweakness.Thegrandeuroftheactiveprincipleisnevermorestronglyfeltthanatsuchasight，fornothingissouglyasthehumanformwhendeprivedoflife，andthusdriedintostone，merelytopreservethemostdisgustingimageofdeath.Thecontemplationofnobleruinsproducesamelancholythatexaltsthemind.Wetakearetrospectoftheexertionsofman，thefateofempiresandtheirrulers，andmarkingthegranddestructionofages，itseemsthenecessarychangeoftheleadingtoimprovement.Ourverysoulexpands，andweforgetourlittleness——howpainfullybroughttoourrecollectionbysuchvainattemptstosnatchfromdecaywhatisdestinedsosoontoperish.Life，whatartthou？Wheregoesthisbreath？——this_I_，somuchalive？Inwhatelementwillitmix，givingorreceivingfreshenergy？Whatwillbreaktheenchantmentofanimation？ForworldsIwouldnotseeaformIloved——embalmedinmyheart——thussacrilegiouslyhandled？Pugh！mystomachturns.
Isthisallthedistinctionoftherichinthegrave？Theyhadbetterquietlyallowthescytheofequalitytomowthemdownwiththecommonmass，thanstruggletobecomeamonumentoftheinstabilityofhumangreatness.
Theteeth，nails，andskinwerewhole，withoutappearingblackliketheEgyptianmummies;andsomesilk，inwhichtheyhadbeenwrapped，stillpreserveditscolour——pink——withtolerablefreshness.
Icouldnotlearnhowlongthebodieshadbeeninthisstate，inwhichtheybidfairtoremaintilltheDayofJudgment，ifthereistobesuchaday;andbeforethattime，itwillrequiresometroubletomakethemfittoappearincompanywithangelswithoutdisgracinghumanity.Godblessyou！Ifeelaconvictionthatwehavesomeperfectibleprincipleinourpresentvestment，whichwillnotbedestroyedjustaswebegintobesensibleofimprovement;andIcarenotwhathabititnextputson，surethatitwillbewiselyformedtosuitahigherstateofexistence.Thinkingofdeathmakesustenderlyclingtoouraffections;withmorethanusualtendernessI
thereforeassureyouthatIamyours，wishingthatthetemporarydeathofabsencemaynotendurelongerthanisabsolutelynecessary.
LETTERVIII.
TonsbergwasformerlytheresidenceofoneofthelittlesovereignsofNorway;andonanadjacentmountainthevestigesofafortremain，whichwasbattereddownbytheSwedes，theentranceofthebaylyingclosetoit.
HereIhavefrequentlystrayed，sovereignofthewaste;Iseldommetanyhumancreature;andsometimes，recliningonthemossydown，undertheshelterofarock，theprattlingoftheseaamongstthepebbleshaslulledmetosleep——nofearofanyrudesatyr’sapproachingtointerruptmyrepose.Balmyweretheslumbers，andsoftthegales，thatrefreshedme，whenIawoketofollow，withaneyevaguelycurious，thewhitesails，astheyturnedthecliffs，orseemedtotakeshelterunderthepineswhichcoveredthelittleislandsthatsogracefullyrosetorendertheterrificoceanbeautiful.Thefishermenwerecalmlycastingtheirnets，whilstthesea—gullshoveredovertheunruffleddeep.Everythingseemedtoharmoniseintotranquillity;eventhemournfulcallofthebitternwasincadencewiththetinklingbellsonthenecksofthecows，that，pacingslowlyoneaftertheother，alonganinvitingpathinthevalebelow，wererepairingtothecottagestobemilked.WithwhatineffablepleasurehaveInotgazed——andgazedagain，losingmybreaththroughmyeyes——myverysouldiffuseditselfinthescene;
and，seemingtobecomeallsenses，glidedinthescarcely—agitatedwaves，meltedinthefresheningbreeze，or，takingitsflightwithfairywing，tothemistymountainwhichboundedtheprospect，fancytrippedovernewlawns，morebeautifuleventhanthelovelyslopesonthewindingshorebeforeme.Ipause，againbreathless，totrace，withreneweddelight，sentimentswhichentrancedme，when，turningmyhumideyesfromtheexpansebelowtothevaultabove，mysightpiercedthefleecycloudsthatsoftenedtheazurebrightness;
andimperceptiblyrecallingthereveriesofchildhood，IbowedbeforetheawfulthroneofmyCreator，whilstIrestedonitsfootstool.
Youhavesometimeswondered，mydearfriend，attheextremeaffectionofmynature.Butsuchisthetemperatureofmysoul.Itisnotthevivacityofyouth，theheydayofexistence.ForyearshaveIendeavouredtocalmanimpetuoustide，labouringtomakemyfeelingstakeanorderlycourse.Itwasstrivingagainstthestream.Imustloveandadmirewithwarmth，orIsinkintosadness.
TokensoflovewhichIhavereceivedhavewrappedmeinElysium，purifyingthehearttheyenchanted.Mybosomstillglows.Donotsaucilyask，repeatingSterne’squestion，\"Maria，isitstillsowarm？\"Sufficiently，OmyGod！Hasitbeenchilledbysorrowandunkindness;stillnaturewillprevail;andifIblushatrecollectingpastenjoyment，itistherosyhueofpleasureheightenedbymodesty，fortheblushofmodestyandshameareasdistinctastheemotionsbywhichtheyareproduced.
Ineedscarcelyinformyou，aftertellingyouofmywalks，thatmyconstitutionhasbeenrenovatedhere，andthatIhaverecoveredmyactivityevenwhilstattainingalittleembonpoint.Myimprudencelastwinter，andsomeuntowardaccidentsjustatthetimeIwasweaningmychild，hadreducedmetoastateofweaknesswhichI
neverbeforeexperienced.AslowfeverpreyedonmeeverynightduringmyresidenceinSweden，andafterIarrivedatTonsberg.BychanceIfoundafinerivuletfilteredthroughtherocks，andconfinedinabasinforthecattle.Ittastedtomelikeachalybeate;atanyrate，itwaspure;andthegoodeffectofthevariouswaterswhichinvalidsaresenttodrinkdepends，Ibelieve，moreontheair，exercise，andchangeofscene，thanontheirmedicinalqualities.Ithereforedeterminedtoturnmymorningwalkstowardsit，andseekforhealthfromthenymphofthefountain，partakingofthebeverageofferedtothetenantsoftheshade.
Chancelikewiseledmetodiscoveranewpleasureequallybeneficialtomyhealth.Iwishedtoavailmyselfofmyvicinitytotheseaandbathe;butitwasnotpossiblenearthetown;therewasnoconvenience.TheyoungwomanwhomImentionedtoyouproposedrowingmeacrossthewateramongsttherocks;butasshewaspregnant，Iinsistedontakingoneoftheoars，andlearningtorow.
Itwasnotdifficult，andIdonotknowapleasanterexercise.I
soonbecameexpert，andmytrainofthinkingkepttime，asitwere，withtheoars，orIsufferedtheboattobecarriedalongbythecurrent，indulgingapleasingforgetfulnessorfallacioushopes.
Howfallacious！yet，withouthope，whatistosustainlife，butthefearofannihilation——theonlythingofwhichIhaveeverfeltadread.Icannotbeartothinkofbeingnomore——oflosingmyself——
thoughexistenceisoftenbutapainfulconsciousnessofmisery;
nay，itappearstomeimpossiblethatIshouldceasetoexist，orthatthisactive，restlessspirit，equallyalivetojoyandsorrow，shouldonlybeorganiseddust——readytoflyabroadthemomentthespringsnaps，orthesparkgoesoutwhichkeptittogether.Surelysomethingresidesinthisheartthatisnotperishable，andlifeismorethanadream.
Sometimes，totakeupmyoaroncemore，whentheseawascalm，Iwasamusedbydisturbingtheinnumerableyoungstarfishwhichfloatedjustbelowthesurface;Ihadneverobservedthembefore，fortheyhavenotahardshelllikethosewhichIhaveseenontheseashore.
Theylooklikethickenedwaterwithawhiteedge，andfourpurplecircles，ofdifferentforms，wereinthemiddle，overanincrediblenumberoffibresorwhitelines.Touchingthem，thecloudysubstancewouldturnorclose，firstononeside，thenontheother，verygracefully，butwhenItookoneofthemupintheladle，withwhichIheavedthewateroutoftheboat，itappearedonlyacolourlessjelly.
Ididnotseeanyoftheseals，numbersofwhichfollowedourboatwhenwelandedinSweden;butthoughIliketosportinthewaterI
shouldhavehadnodesiretojoinintheirgambols.
Enough，youwillsay，ofinanimatenatureandofbrutes，tousethelordlyphraseofman;letmehearsomethingoftheinhabitants.
ThegentlemanwithwhomIhadbusinessistheMayorofTonsberg.HespeaksEnglishintelligibly，and，havingasoundunderstanding，I
wassorrythathisnumerousoccupationspreventedmygainingasmuchinformationfromhimasIcouldhavedrawnforthhadwefrequentlyconversed.Thepeopleofthetown，asfarasIhadanopportunityofknowingtheirsentiments，areextremelywellsatisfiedwithhismannerofdischarginghisoffice.Hehasadegreeofinformationandgoodsensewhichexcitesrespect，whilstacheerfulness，almostamountingtogaiety，enableshimtoreconciledifferencesandkeephisneighboursingoodhumour.\"Ilostmyhorse，\"saidawomantome，\"buteversince，whenIwanttosendtothemill，orgoout，theMayorlendsmeone.HescoldsifIdonotcomeforit.\"
Acriminalwasbranded，duringmystayhere，forthethirdoffence;
butthereliefhereceivedmadehimdeclarethatthejudgewasoneofthebestmenintheworld.
Isentthiswretchatrifle，atdifferenttimes，totakewithhimintoslavery.Asitwasmorethanheexpected，hewishedverymuchtoseeme，andthiswishbroughttomyremembranceananecdoteI
heardwhenIwasinLisbon.
Awretchwhohadbeenimprisonedseveralyears，duringwhichperiodlampshadbeenputup，wasatlastcondemnedtoacrueldeath，yet，inhiswaytoexecution，heonlywishedforonenight’srespitetoseethecitylighted.
Havingdinedincompanyatthemayor’sIwasinvitedwithhisfamilytospendthedayatoneoftherichestmerchant’shouses.ThoughI
couldnotspeakDanishIknewthatIcouldseeagreatdeal;yes，I
ampersuadedthatIhaveformedaveryjustopinionofthecharacteroftheNorwegians，withoutbeingabletoholdconversewiththem.
Ihadexpectedtomeetsomecompany，yetwasalittledisconcertedatbeingusheredintoanapartmentfullofwelldressedpeople，andglancingmyeyesroundtheyrestedonseveralveryprettyfaces.
Rosycheeks，sparklingeyes，andlightbrownorgoldenlocks;forI
neversawsomuchhairwithayellowcast，and，withtheirfinecomplexions，itlookedverybecoming.
Thesewomenseemamixtureofindolenceandvivacity;theyscarcelyeverwalkout，andwereastonishedthatIshouldforpleasure，yettheyareimmoderatelyfondofdancing.Unaffectedintheirmanners，iftheyhavenopretensionstoelegance，simplicityoftenproducesagracefulnessofdeportment，whentheyareanimatedbyaparticulardesiretoplease，whichwasthecaseatpresent.Thesolitarinessofmysituation，whichtheythoughtterrible，interestedthemverymuchinmyfavour.Theygatheredroundme，sungtome，andoneoftheprettiest，towhomIgavemyhandwithsomedegreeofcordiality，tomeettheglanceofhereyes，kissedmeveryaffectionately.
Atdinner，whichwasconductedwithgreathospitality，thoughweremainedattabletoolong，theysungseveralsongs，and，amongsttherest，translationsofsomepatrioticFrenchones.Astheeveningadvancedtheybecameplayful，andwekeptupasortofconversationofgestures.AstheirmindsweretotallyuncultivatedIdidnotlosemuch，perhapsgained，bynotbeingabletounderstandthem;forfancyprobablyfilledup，moretotheiradvantage，thevoidinthepicture.Bethatasitmay，theyexcitedmysympathy，andIwasverymuchflatteredwhenIwastoldthenextdaythattheysaiditwasapleasuretolookatme，Iappearedsogood—natured.
Themenweregenerallycaptainsofships.SeveralspokeEnglishverytolerably，buttheyweremerelymatter—of—factmen，confinedtoaverynarrowcircleofobservation.Ifounditdifficulttoobtainfromthemanyinformationrespectingtheirowncountry，whenthefumesoftobaccodidnotkeepmeatadistance.
Iwasinvitedtopartakeofsomeotherfeasts，andalwayshadtocomplainofthequantityofprovisionandthelengthoftimetakentoconsumeit;foritwouldnothavebeenpropertohavesaiddevour，allwentonsofairandsoftly.Theservantswaitasslowlyastheirmistressescarve.
Theyoungwomenhere，aswellasinSweden，havecommonlybadteeth，whichIattributetothesamecauses.Theyarefondoffinery，butdonotpaythenecessaryattentiontotheirpersons，torenderbeautylesstransientthanaflower，andthatinterestingexpressionwhichsentimentandaccomplishmentsgiveseldomsuppliesitsplace.
Theservantshave，likewise，aninferiorsortoffoodhere，buttheirmastersarenotallowedtostrikethemwithimpunity.Imighthaveaddedmistresses，foritwasacomplaintofthiskindbroughtbeforethemayorwhichledmetoaknowledgeofthefact.
Thewagesarelow，whichisparticularlyunjust，becausethepriceofclothesismuchhigherthanthatofprovision.Ayoungwoman，whoiswetnursetothemistressoftheinnwhereIlodge，receivesonlytwelvedollarsayear，andpaystenforthenursingofherownchild.Thefatherhadrunawaytogetclearoftheexpense.Therewassomethinginthismostpainfulstateofwidowhoodwhichexcitedmycompassionandledmetoreflectionsontheinstabilityofthemostflatteringplansofhappiness，thatwerepainfulintheextreme，tillIwasreadytoaskwhetherthisworldwasnotcreatedtoexhibiteverypossiblecombinationofwretchedness.Iaskedthesequestionsofaheartwrithingwithanguish，whilstIlistenedtoamelancholydittysungbythispoorgirl.Itwastooearlyfortheetobeabandoned，thoughtI，andIhastenedoutofthehousetotakemysolitaryevening’swalk.AndhereIamagaintotalkofanythingbutthepangsarisingfromthediscoveryofestrangedaffectionandthelonelysadnessofadesertedheart.
Thefatherandmother，ifthefathercanbeascertained，areobligedtomaintainanillegitimatechildattheirjointexpense;but，shouldthefatherdisappear，goupthecountryortosea，themothermustmaintainitherself.However，accidentsofthiskinddonotpreventtheirmarrying，andthenitisnotunusualtotakethechildorchildrenhome，andtheyarebroughtupveryamicablywiththemarriageprogeny.
Itooksomepainstolearnwhatbookswerewrittenoriginallyintheirlanguage;butforanycertaininformationrespectingthestateofDanishliteratureImustwaittillIarriveatCopenhagen.
Thesoundofthelanguageissoft，agreatproportionofthewordsendinginvowels;andthereisasimplicityintheturnofsomeofthephraseswhichhavebeentranslatedtomethatpleasedandinterestedme.InthecountrythefarmersusetheTHOUandTHEE;
andtheydonotacquirethepolitepluralsofthetownsbymeetingatmarket.Thenothavingmarketsestablishedinthelargetownsappearstomeagreatinconvenience.Whenthefarmershaveanythingtoselltheybringittotheneighbouringtownandtakeitfromhousetohouse.Iamsurprisedthattheinhabitantsdonotfeelhowveryincommodiousthisusageistobothparties，andredressit;
they，indeed，perceiveit，forwhenIhaveintroducedthesubjecttheyacknowledgedthattheywereofteninwantofnecessaries，therebeingnobutchers，andtheywereoftenobligedtobuywhattheydidnotwant;yetitwasthecustom，andthechangingofcustomsofalongstandingrequiresmoreenergythantheyyetpossess.I
receivedasimilarreplywhenIattemptedtopersuadethewomenthattheyinjuredtheirchildrenbykeepingthemtoowarm.Theonlywayofparryingoffmyreasoningwasthattheymustdoasotherpeopledid;inshort，reasononanysubjectofchange，andtheystopyoubysayingthat\"thetownwouldtalk.\"Apersonofsense，withalargefortunetoensurerespect，mightbeveryusefulhere，byinducingthemtotreattheirchildrenandmanagetheirsickproperly，andeatfooddressedinasimplermanner——theexample，forinstance，ofacount’slady.
Reflectingontheseprejudicesmademereverttothewisdomofthoselegislatorswhoestablishedinstitutionsforthegoodofthebodyunderthepretextofservingheavenforthesalvationofthesoul.