Thesemightwithstrictproprietybetermedpiousfrauds;andI
admirethePeruvianpairforassertingthattheycamefromthesun，whentheirconductprovedthattheymeanttoenlightenabenightedcountry，whoseobedience，orevenattention，couldonlybesecuredbyawe.ThusmuchforconqueringtheINERTIAofreason;but，whenitisonceinmotion，fablesonceheldsacredmayberidiculed;andsacredtheywerewhenusefultomankind.Prometheusalonestolefiretoanimatethefirstman;hisposterityneedsnotsupernaturalaidtopreservethespecies，thoughloveisgenerallytermedaflame;anditmaynotbenecessarymuchlongertosupposemeninspiredbyheaventoinculcatethedutieswhichdemandspecialgracewhenreasonconvincesthemthattheyarethehappiestwhoarethemostnoblyemployed.
InafewdaysIamtosetoutforthewesternpartofNorway，andthenshallreturnbylandtoGothenburg.Icannotthinkofleavingthisplacewithoutregret.Ispeakoftheplacebeforetheinhabitants，thoughthereisatendernessintheirartlesskindnesswhichattachesmetothem;butitisanattachmentthatinspiresaregretverydifferentfromthatIfeltatleavingHullinmywaytoSweden.Thedomestichappinessandgood—humouredgaietyoftheamiablefamilywhereIandmyFrancesweresohospitablyreceivedwouldhavebeensufficienttoensurethetenderestremembrance，withouttherecollectionofthesocialeveningtostimulateit，whengoodbreedinggavedignitytosympathyandwitzesttoreason.
Adieu！——Iamjustinformedthatmyhorsehasbeenwaitingthisquarterofanhour.Inowventuretorideoutalone.Thesteepleservesasalandmark.Ionceortwicelostmyway，walkingalone，withoutbeingabletoinquireafterapath;Iwasthereforeobligedtomaketothesteeple，orwindmill，overhedgeandditch.
Yourstruly.
LETTERIX.
IhavealreadyinformedyouthatthereareonlytwonoblemenwhohaveestatesofanymagnitudeinNorway.OneofthesehasahousenearTonsberg，atwhichhehasnotresidedforsomeyears，havingbeenatcourt，oronembassies.HeisnowtheDanishAmbassadorinLondon.Thehouseispleasantlysituated，andthegroundsaboutitfine;buttheirneglectedappearanceplainlytellsthatthereisnobodyathome.
Astupidkindofsadness，tomyeye，alwaysreignsinahugehabitationwhereonlyservantslivetoputcasesonthefurnitureandopenthewindows.IenterasIwouldintothetomboftheCapulets，tolookatthefamilypicturesthatherefrowninarmour，orsmileinermine.Themildewrespectsnotthelordlyrobe，andthewormriotsuncheckedonthecheekofbeauty.
Therewasnothinginthearchitectureofthebuilding，ortheformofthefurniture，todetainmefromtheavenuewheretheagedpinesstretchedalongmajestically.Timehadgivenagreyishcasttotheirever—greenfoliage;andtheystood，likesiresoftheforest，shelteredonallsidesbyarisingprogeny.IhadnoteverseensomanyoakstogetherinNorwayasinthesewoods，norsuchlargeaspensasherewereagitatedbythebreeze，renderingthewindaudible——naymusical;formelodyseemedonthewingaroundme.Howdifferentwasthefreshodourthatreanimatedmeintheavenue，fromthedampchillnessoftheapartments;andaslittledidthegloomythoughtfulnessexcitedbythedustyhangings，andworm—eatenpictures，resemblethereveriesinspiredbythesoothingmelancholyoftheirshade.Inthewinter，theseaugustpines，toweringabovethesnow，mustrelievetheeyebeyondmeasureandgivelifetothewhitewaste.
Thecontinualrecurrenceofpineandfirgrovesinthedaysometimesweariesthesight，butintheevening，nothingcanbemorepicturesque，or，moreproperlyspeaking，bettercalculatedtoproducepoeticalimages.Passingthroughthem，Ihavebeenstruckwithamystickindofreverence，andIdid，asitwere，homagetotheirvenerableshadows.Notnymphs，butphilosophers，seemedtoinhabitthem——evermusing;Icouldscarcelyconceivethattheywerewithoutsomeconsciousnessofexistence——withoutacalmenjoymentofthepleasuretheydiffused.
Howoftendomyfeelingsproduceideasthatremindmeoftheoriginofmanypoeticalfictions.Insolitude，theimaginationbodiesforthitsconceptionsunrestrained，andstopsenrapturedtoadorethebeingsofitsowncreation.Thesearemomentsofbliss;andthememoryrecallsthemwithdelight.
ButIhavealmostforgottenthemattersoffactImeanttorelate，respectingthecounts.Theyhavethepresentationofthelivingsontheirestates，appointthejudges，anddifferentcivilofficers，theCrownreservingtoitselftheprivilegeofsanctioningthem.Butthoughtheyappoint，theycannotdismiss.Theirtenantsalsooccupytheirfarmsforlife，andareobligedtoobeyanysummonstoworkontheparthereservesforhimself;buttheyarepaidfortheirlabour.Inshort，Ihaveseldomheardofanynoblemensoinnoxious.
Observingthatthegardensroundthecount’sestatewerebettercultivatedthananyIhadbeforeseen，Iwasledtoreflectontheadvantageswhichnaturallyaccruefromthefeudaltenures.Thetenantsofthecountareobligedtoworkatastatedprice，inhisgroundsandgarden;andtheinstructionwhichtheyimperceptiblyreceivefromtheheadgardenertendstorenderthemuseful，andmakesthem，inthecommoncourseofthings，betterhusbandmenandgardenersontheirownlittlefarms.Thusthegreat，whoalonetravelinthisperiodofsociety，fortheobservationofmannersandcustomsmadebysailorsisveryconfined，bringhomeimprovementtopromotetheirowncomfort，whichisgraduallyspreadabroadamongstthepeople，tilltheyarestimulatedtothinkforthemselves.
Thebishopshavenotlargerevenues，andthepriestsareappointedbythekingbeforetheycometothemtobeordained.Thereiscommonlysomelittlefarmannexedtotheparsonage，andtheinhabitantssubscribevoluntarily，threetimesayear，inadditiontothechurchfees，forthesupportoftheclergyman.ThechurchlandswereseizedwhenLutheranismwasintroduced，thedesireofobtainingthembeingprobablytherealstimulusofreformation.Thetithes，whichareneverrequiredinkind，aredividedintothreeparts——onetotheking，anothertotheincumbent，andthethirdtorepairthedilapidationsoftheparsonage.Theydonotamounttomuch.Andthestipendallowedtothedifferentcivilofficersisalsotoosmall，scarcelydeservingtobetermedanindependence;
thatofthecustom—houseofficersisnotsufficienttoprocurethenecessariesoflife——nowonder，then，ifnecessityleadsthemtoknavery.Muchpublicvirtuecannotbeexpectedtilleveryemployment，puttingperquisitesoutofthequestion，hasasalarysufficienttorewardindustry;——whilstnonearesogreatastopermitthepossessortoremainidle.Itisthiswantofproportionbetweenprofitandlabourwhichdebasesmen，producingthesycophanticappellationsofpatronandclient，andthatperniciousespritducorps，proverbiallyvicious.
Thefarmersarehospitableaswellasindependent.OfferingoncetopayforsomecoffeeIdrankwhentakingshelterfromtherain，Iwasasked，ratherangrily，ifalittlecoffeewasworthpayingfor.
Theysmoke，anddrinkdrams，butnotsomuchasformerly.
Drunkenness，oftentheattendantdisgraceofhospitality，willhere，aswellaseverywhereelse，giveplacetogallantryandrefinementofmanners;butthechangewillnotbesuddenlyproduced.
Thepeopleofeveryclassareconstantintheirattendanceatchurch;theyareveryfondofdancing，andtheSundayeveningsinNorway，asinCatholiccountries，arespentinexerciseswhichexhilaratethespiritswithoutvitiatingtheheart.Therestoflabouroughttobegay;andthegladnessIhavefeltinFranceonaSunday，orDecadi，whichIcaughtfromthefacesaroundme，wasasentimentmoretrulyreligiousthanallthestupidstillnesswhichthestreetsofLondoneverinspiredwheretheSabbathissodecorouslyobserved.Irecollect，inthecountrypartsofEngland，thechurchwardensusedtogooutduringtheservicetoseeiftheycouldcatchanylucklesswightplayingatbowlsorskittles;yetwhatcouldbemoreharmless？Itwouldeven，Ithink，beagreatadvantagetotheEnglish，iffeatsofactivity（Idonotincludeboxingmatches）wereencouragedonaSunday，asitmightstoptheprogressofMethodism，andofthatfanaticalspiritwhichappearstobegainingground.IwassurprisedwhenIvisitedYorkshire，onmywaytoSweden，tofindthatsullennarrownessofthinkinghadmadesuchaprogresssinceIwasaninhabitantofthecountry.Icouldhardlyhavesupposedthatsixteenorseventeenyearscouldhaveproducedsuchanalterationfortheworseinthemoralsofaplace——
yes，Isaymorals;forobservanceofforms，andavoidingofpractices，indifferentinthemselves，oftensupplytheplaceofthatregularattentiontodutieswhicharesonatural，thattheyseldomarevauntinglyexercised，thoughtheyareworthallthepreceptsofthelawandtheprophets.Besides，manyofthesedeludedpeople，withthebestmeaning，actuallylosetheirreason，andbecomemiserable，thedreadofdamnationthrowingthemintoastatewhichmeritstheterm;andstillmore，inrunningaftertheirpreachers，expectingtopromotetheirsalvation，theydisregardtheirwelfareinthisworld，andneglecttheinterestandcomfortoftheirfamilies;sothat，inproportionastheyattainareputationforpiety，theybecomeidle.
AristocracyandfanaticismseemequallytobegaininggroundinEngland，particularlyintheplaceIhavementioned;IsawverylittleofeitherinNorway.Thepeopleareregularintheirattendanceonpublicworship，butreligiondoesnotinterferewiththeiremployments.
Asthefarmerscutawaythewoodtheycleartheground.Everyyear，therefore，thecountryisbecomingfittertosupporttheinhabitants.HalfacenturyagotheDutch，Iamtold，onlypaidforthecuttingdownofthewood，andthefarmersweregladtogetridofitwithoutgivingthemselvesanytrouble.Atpresenttheyformajustestimateofitsvalue;nay，Iwassurprisedtofindevenfirewoodsodearwhenitappearstobeinsuchplenty.Thedestruction，orgradualreduction，oftheirforestswillprobablyamelioratetheclimate，andtheirmannerswillnaturallyimproveinthesameratioasindustryrequiresingenuity.Itisveryfortunatethatmenarealongtimebutjustabovethebrutecreation，orthegreaterpartoftheearthwouldneverhavebeenrenderedhabitable，becauseitisthepatientlabourofmen，whoareonlyseekingforasubsistence，whichproduceswhateverembellishesexistence，affordingleisureforthecultivationoftheartsandsciencesthatliftmansofarabovehisfirststate.Inever，myfriend，thoughtsodeeplyoftheadvantagesobtainedbyhumanindustryassinceI
havebeeninNorway.Theworldrequires，Isee，thehandofmantoperfectit，andasthistasknaturallyunfoldsthefacultiesheexercises，itisphysicallyimpossiblethatheshouldhaveremainedinRousseau’sgoldenageofstupidity.And，consideringthequestionofhumanhappiness，where，ohwheredoesitreside？Hasittakenupitsabodewithunconsciousignoranceorwiththehigh—
wroughtmind？Isittheoffspringofthoughtlessanimalspiritsorthedyeoffancycontinuallyflittingroundtheexpectedpleasure？
Theincreasingpopulationoftheearthmustnecessarilytendtoitsimprovement，asthemeansofexistencearemultipliedbyinvention.
YouhaveprobablymadesimilarreflectionsinAmerica，wherethefaceofthecountry，Isuppose，resemblesthewildsofNorway.IamdelightedwiththeromanticviewsIdailycontemplate，animatedbythepurestair;andIaminterestedbythesimplicityofmannerswhichreignsaroundme.Stillnothingsosoonweariesoutthefeelingsasunmarkedsimplicity.IamthereforehalfconvincedthatIcouldnotliveverycomfortablyexiledfromthecountrieswheremankindaresomuchfurtheradvancedinknowledge，imperfectasitis，andunsatisfactorytothethinkingmind.EvennowIbegintolongtohearwhatyouaredoinginEnglandandFrance.Mythoughtsflyfromthiswildernesstothepolishedcirclesoftheworld，tillrecollectingitsvicesandfollies，Iburymyselfinthewoods，butfinditnecessarytoemergeagain，thatImaynotlosesightofthewisdomandvirtuewhichexaltsmynature.
Whatalongtimeitrequirestoknowourselves;andyetalmosteveryonehasmoreofthisknowledgethanheiswillingtoown，eventohimself.IcannotimmediatelydeterminewhetherIoughttorejoiceathavingturnedoverinthissolitudeanewpageinthehistoryofmyownheart，thoughImayventuretoassureyouthatafurtheracquaintancewithmankindonlytendstoincreasemyrespectforyourjudgmentandesteemforyourcharacter.Farewell！
LETTERX.
Ihaveoncemore，myfriend，takenflight，forIleftTonsbergyesterday，butwithanintentionofreturninginmywaybacktoSweden.
TheroadtoLaurvigisveryfine，andthecountrythebestcultivatedinNorway.Ineverbeforeadmiredthebeechtree，andwhenImetstragglersheretheypleasedmestillless.Longandlank，theywouldhaveforcedmetoallowthatthelineofbeautyrequiressomecurves，ifthestatelypine，standingnear，erect，throwinghervastarmsaround，hadnotlookedbeautifulinoppositiontosuchnarrowrules.
Intheserespectsmyveryreasonobligesmetopermitmyfeelingstobemycriterion.Whateverexcitesemotionhascharmsforme，thoughIinsistthatthecultivationofthemindbywarming，nay，almostcreatingtheimagination，producestasteandanimmensevarietyofsensationsandemotions，partakingoftheexquisitepleasureinspiredbybeautyandsublimity.AsIknowofnoendtothem，thewordinfinite，sooftenmisapplied，mightonthisoccasionbeintroducedwithsomethinglikepropriety.
ButIhaverambledawayagain.Iintendedtohaveremarkedtoyoutheeffectproducedbyagroveoftoweringbeech，theairylightnessoftheirfoliageadmittingadegreeofsunshine，which，givingatransparencytotheleaves，exhibitedanappearanceoffreshnessandelegancethatIhadneverbeforeremarked.IthoughtofdescriptionsofItalianscenery.Buttheseevanescentgracesseemedtheeffectofenchantment;andIimperceptiblybreathedsoftly，lestIshoulddestroywhatwasreal，yetlookedsolikethecreationoffancy.Dryden’sfableoftheflowerandtheleafwasnotamorepoeticalreverie.
Adieu，however，tofancy，andtoallthesentimentswhichennobleournature.IarrivedatLaurvig，andfoundmyselfinthemidstofagroupoflawyersofdifferentdescriptions.Myheadturnedround，myheartgrewsick，asIregardedvisagesdeformedbyvice，andlistenedtoaccountsofchicanerythatwascontinuallyembroilingtheignorant.Theselocustswillprobablydiminishasthepeoplebecomemoreenlightened.Inthisperiodofsociallifethecommonaltyarealwayscunninglyattentivetotheirowninterest;buttheirfaculties，confinedtoafewobjects，aresonarrowed，thattheycannotdiscoveritinthegeneralgood.Theprofessionofthelawrendersasetofmenstillshrewderandmoreselfishthantherest;anditisthesemen，whosewitshavebeensharpenedbyknavery，whohereunderminemorality，confoundingrightandwrong.
TheCountofBernstorff，whoreallyappearstome，fromallIcangather，tohavethegoodofthepeopleatheart，awareofthis，haslatelysenttothemayorofeachdistricttoname，accordingtothesizeoftheplace，fourorsixofthebest—informedinhabitants，notmenofthelaw，outofwhichthecitizensweretoelecttwo，whoaretobetermedmediators.Theirofficeistoendeavourtopreventlitigioussuits，andconciliatedifferences.Andnosuitistobecommencedbeforethepartieshavediscussedthedisputeattheirweeklymeeting.Ifareconciliationshould，inconsequence，takeplace，itistoberegistered，andthepartiesarenotallowedtoretract.
Bythesemeansignorantpeoplewillbepreventedfromapplyingforadvicetomenwhomayjustlybetermedstirrers—upofstrife.Theyhaveforalongtime，touseasignificantvulgarism，setthepeoplebytheears，andlivebythespoiltheycaughtupinthescramble.
Thereissomereasontohopethatthisregulationwilldiminishtheirnumber，andrestraintheirmischievousactivity.Buttilltrialsbyjuryareestablished，littlejusticecanbeexpectedinNorway.Judgeswhocannotbebribedareoftentimid，andafraidofoffendingboldknaves，lesttheyshouldraiseasetofhornetsaboutthemselves.Thefearofcensureunderminesallenergyofcharacter;
and，labouringtobeprudent，theylosesightofrectitude.
Besides，nothingislefttotheirconscience，orsagacity;theymustbegovernedbyevidence，thoughinternallyconvincedthatitisfalse.
ThereisaconsiderableironmanufactoryatLaurvigforcoarsework，andalakenearthetownsuppliesthewaternecessaryforworkingseveralmillsbelongingtoit.
ThisestablishmentbelongstotheCountofLaurvig.Withoutafortuneandinfluenceequaltohis，suchaworkcouldnothavebeensetafloat;personalfortunesarenotyetsufficienttosupportsuchundertakings.Neverthelesstheinhabitantsofthetownspeakofthesizeofhisestateasanevil，becauseitobstructscommerce.Theoccupiersofsmallfarmsareobligedtobringtheirwoodtotheneighbouringseaportstobeshipped;buthe，wishingtoincreasethevalueofhis，willnotallowittobethusgraduallycutdown，whichturnsthetradeintoanotherchannel.Addedtothis，natureisagainstthem，thebaybeingopenandinsecure.IcouldnothelpsmilingwhenIwasinformedthatinahardgaleavesselhadbeenwreckedinthemainstreet.Whentherearesuchanumberofexcellentharboursonthecoast，itisapitythataccidenthasmadeoneofthelargesttownsgrowuponabadone.
Thefatherofthepresentcountwasadistantrelationofthefamily;heresidedconstantlyinDenmark，andhissonfollowshisexample.Theyhavenotbeeninpossessionoftheestatemanyyears;
andtheirpredecessorlivednearthetown，introducingadegreeofprofligacyofmannerswhichhasbeenruinoustotheinhabitantsineveryrespect，theirfortunesnotbeingequaltotheprevailingextravagance.
WhatlittleIhaveseenofthemannersofthepeopledoesnotpleasemesowellasthoseofTonsberg.IamforewarnedthatIshallfindthemstillmorecunningandfraudulentasIadvancetowardsthewestward，inproportionastraffictakesplaceofagriculture，fortheirtownsarebuiltonnakedrocks，thestreetsarenarrowbridges，andtheinhabitantsareallseafaringmen，orownersofships，whokeepshops.
TheinnIwasatinLaurvigthisjourneywasnotthesamethatIwasatbefore.Itisagoodone——thepeoplecivil，andtheaccommodationsdecent.TheyseemtobebetterprovidedinSweden;
butinjusticeIoughttoaddthattheychargemoreextravagantly.
MybillatTonsbergwasalsomuchhigherthanIhadpaidinSweden，andmuchhigherthanitoughttohavebeenwhereprovisionissocheap.Indeed，theyseemtoconsiderforeignersasstrangerswhomtheyshallneverseeagain，andmayfairlypluck.Andtheinhabitantsofthewesterncoast，isolated，asitwere，regardthoseoftheeastalmostasstrangers.Eachtowninthatquarterseemstobeagreatfamily，suspiciousofeveryother，allowingnonetocheatthembutthemselves;and，rightorwrong，theysupportoneanotherinthefaceofjustice.
OnthisjourneyIwasfortunateenoughtohaveonecompanionwithmoreenlargedviewsthanthegeneralityofhiscountrymen，whospokeEnglishtolerably.
Iwasinformedthatwemightstilladvanceamileandaquarterinourcabrioles;afterwardstherewasnochoice，butofasinglehorseandwretchedpath，oraboat，theusualmodeoftravelling.
Wethereforesentourbaggageforwardintheboat，andfollowedratherslowly，fortheroadwasrockyandsandy.Wepassed，however，throughseveralbeechgroves，whichstilldelightedmebythefreshnessoftheirlightgreenfoliage，andtheeleganceoftheirassemblage，formingretreatstoveilwithoutobscuringthesun.
Iwassurprised，atapproachingthewater，tofindalittleclusterofhousespleasantlysituated，andanexcellentinn.Icouldhavewishedtohaveremainedthereallnight;butasthewindwasfair，andtheeveningfine，Iwasafraidtotrusttothewind——theuncertainwindofto—morrow.WethereforeleftHelgeraacimmediatelywiththedecliningsun.
Thoughwewereintheopensea，wesailedmoreamongsttherocksandislandsthaninmypassagefromStromstad;andtheyoftenforcedverypicturesquecombinations.Fewofthehighridgeswereentirelybare;theseedsofsomepinesorfirshadbeenwaftedbythewindsorwaves，andtheystoodtobravetheelements.
Sitting，then，inalittleboatontheocean，amidststrangers，withsorrowandcarepressinghardonme——buffetingmeaboutfromclimetoclime——Ifelt\"Liketheloneshrubatrandomcast，Thatsighsandtremblesateachblast！\"
Onsomeofthelargestrockstherewereactuallygroves，theretreatoffoxesandhares，which，Isuppose，hadtrippedovertheiceduringthewinter，withoutthinkingtoregainthemainlandbeforethethaw.
Severaloftheislandswereinhabitedbypilots;andtheNorwegianpilotsareallowedtobethebestintheworld——perfectlyacquaintedwiththeircoast，andeverathandtoobservethefirstsignalorsail.Theypayasmalltaxtothekingandtotheregulatingofficer，andenjoythefruitoftheirindefatigableindustry.
Oneoftheislands，calledVirginLand，isaflat，withsomedepthofearth，extendingforhalfaNorwegianmile，withthreefarmsonit，tolerablywellcultivated.
OnsomeofthebarerocksIsawstragglinghouses;theyroseabovethedenominationofhutsinhabitedbyfishermen.Mycompanionsassuredmethattheywereverycomfortabledwellings，andthattheyhavenotonlythenecessaries，butevenwhatmightbereckonedthesuperfluitiesoflife.Itwastoolateformetogoonshore，ifyouwillallowmetogivethatnametoshiveringrocks，toascertainthefact.
Butraincomingon，andthenightgrowingdark，thepilotdeclaredthatitwouldbedangerousforustoattempttogototheplaceofourdestination——EastRusoer——aNorwegianmileandahalffurther;
andwedeterminedtostopforthenightatalittlehaven，somehalfdozenhousesscatteredunderthecurveofarock.Thoughitbecamedarkeranddarker，ourpilotavoidedtheblindrockswithgreatdexterity.
Itwasaboutteno’clockwhenwearrived，andtheoldhostessquicklypreparedmeacomfortablebed——alittletoosoftorso，butIwasweary;andopeningthewindowtoadmitthesweetestofbreezestofanmetosleep，Isunkintothemostluxuriousrest：itwasmorethanrefreshing.Thehospitablespritesofthegrotssurelyhoveredroundmypillow;and，ifIawoke，itwastolistentothemelodiouswhisperingofthewindamongstthem，ortofeelthemildbreathofmorn.Lightslumbersproduceddreams，whereParadisewasbeforeme.Mylittlecherubwasagainhidingherfaceinmybosom.
Iheardhersweetcooingbeatonmyheartfromthecliffs，andsawhertinyfootstepsonthesands.New—bornhopesseemed，liketherainbow，toappearinthecloudsofsorrow，faint，yetsufficienttoamuseawaydespair.
Somerefreshingbutheavyshowershavedetainedus;andhereIamwritingquitealone——somethingmorethangay，forwhichIwantaname.
IcouldalmostfancymyselfinNootkaSound，oronsomeoftheislandsonthenorth—westcoastofAmerica.Weenteredbyanarrowpassthroughtherocks，whichfromthisabodeappearmoreromanticthanyoucanwellimagine;andseal—skinshangingatthedoortodryaddtotheillusion.
Itisindeedacorneroftheworld，butyouwouldbesurprisedtoseethecleanlinessandcomfortofthedwelling.Theshelvesarenotonlyshiningwithpewterandqueen’sware，butsomearticlesinsilver，moreponderous，itistrue，thanelegant.Thelinenisgood，aswellaswhite.Allthefemalesspin，andthereisaloominthekitchen.Asortofindividualtasteappearedinthearrangementofthefurniture（thisisnottheplaceforimitation）
andakindnessintheirdesiretooblige.Howsuperiortotheapishpolitenessofthetowns！wherethepeople，affectingtobewellbred，fatiguewiththeirendlessceremony.
Themistressisawidow，herdaughterismarriedtoapilot，andhasthreecows.TheyhavealittlepatchoflandataboutthedistanceoftwoEnglishmiles，wheretheymakehayforthewinter，whichtheybringhomeinaboat.Theylivehereverycheap，gettingmoneyfromthevesselswhichstressofweather，orothercauses，bringintotheirharbour.Isuspect，bytheirfurniture，thattheysmugglealittle.Icannowcredittheaccountoftheotherhouses，whichI
lastnightthoughtexaggerated.
IhavebeenconversingwithoneofmycompanionsrespectingthelawsandregulationsofNorway.Heisamanwithingreatportionofcommonsenseandheart——yes，awarmheart.ThisisnotthefirsttimeIhaveremarkedheartwithoutsentiment;theyaredistinct.
Theformerdependsontherectitudeofthefeelings，ontruthofsympathy;thesecharactershavemoretendernessthanpassion;thelatterhasahighersource——callitimagination，genius，orwhatyouwill，itissomethingverydifferent.Ihavebeenlaughingwiththesesimpleworthyfolk——togiveyouoneofmyhalf—scoreDanishwords——andlettingasmuchofmyheartflowoutinsympathyastheycantake.Adieu！Imusttripuptherocks.Therainisever.Letmecatchpleasureonthewing——Imaybemelancholyto—morrow.Nowallmynerveskeeptimewiththemelodyofnature.Ah！letmebehappywhilstIcan.ThetearstartsasIthinkofit.Imustfleefromthought，andfindrefugefromsorrowinastrongimagination——
theonlysolaceforafeelingheart.Phantomsofbliss！idealformsofexcellence！againenclosemeinyourmagiccircle，andwipeclearfrommyremembrancethedisappointmentsthatreaderthesympathypainful，whichexperienceratherincreasesthandamps，bygivingtheindulgenceoffeelingthesanctionofreason.
Oncemorefarewell！
LETTERXI.
IleftPortoer，thelittlehavenImentioned，soonafterIfinishedmylastletter.Theseawasrough，andIperceivedthatourpilotwasrightnottoventurefartherduringahazynight.WehadagreedtopayfourdollarsforaboatfromHelgeraac.Imentionthesum，becausetheywoulddemandtwiceasmuchfromastranger.IwasobligedtopayfifteenfortheoneIhiredatStromstad.Whenwewerereadytosetout，ourboatmanofferedtoreturnadollarandletusgoinoneoftheboatsoftheplace，thepilotwholivedtherebeingbetteracquaintedwiththecoast.Heonlydemandedadollarandahalf，whichwasreasonable.Ifoundhimacivilandratherintelligentman;hewasintheAmericanserviceseveralyears，duringtheRevolution.
Isoonperceivedthatanexperiencedmarinerwasnecessarytoguideus，forwewerecontinuallyobligedtotackabout，toavoidtherocks，which，scarcelyreachingtothesurfaceofthewater，couldonlybediscoveredbythebreakingofthewavesoverthem.
Theviewofthiswildcoast，aswesailedalongit，affordedmeacontinualsubjectformeditation.Ianticipatedthefutureimprovementoftheworld，andobservedhowmuchmanhasstilltodotoobtainoftheearthallitcouldyield.Ievencarriedmyspeculationssofarastoadvanceamillionortwoofyearstothemomentwhentheearthwouldperhapsbesoperfectlycultivated，andsocompletelypeopled，astorenderitnecessarytoinhabiteveryspot——yes，thesebleakshores.Imaginationwentstillfarther，andpicturedthestateofmanwhentheearthcouldnolongersupporthim.Whitherwashetofleefromuniversalfamine？Donotsmile;I
reallybecamedistressedforthesefellowcreaturesyetunborn.Theimagesfastenedonme，andtheworldappearedavastprison.Iwassoontobeinasmallerone——fornoothernamecanIgivetoRusoer.
Itwouldbedifficulttoformanideaoftheplace，ifyouhaveneverseenoneoftheserockycoasts.
Wewereaconsiderabletimeenteringamongsttheislands，beforewesawabouttwohundredhousescrowdedtogetherunderaveryhighrock——stillhigherappearingabove.TalknotofBastilles！Tobebornherewastobebastilledbynature——shutoutfromallthatopenstheunderstanding，orenlargestheheart.Huddledonebehindanother，notmorethanaquarterofthedwellingsevenhadaprospectofthesea.Afewplanksformedpassagesfromhousetohouse，whichyoumustoftenscale，mountingstepslikealaddertoenter.
Theonlyroadacrosstherocksleadstoahabitationsterileenough，youmaysuppose，whenItellyouthatthelittleearthontheadjacentoneswascarriedtherebythelateinhabitant.Apath，almostimpracticableforahorse，goesontoArendall，stillfurthertothewestward.
Iinquiredforawalk，and，mountingneartwohundredstepsmaderoundarock，walkedupanddownforaboutahundredyardsviewingthesea，towhichIquicklydescendedbystepsthatcheatedthedeclivity.Theoceanandthesetremendousbulwarksenclosedmeoneveryside.Ifelttheconfinement，andwishedforwingstoreachstillloftiercliffs，whoseslipperysidesnofootwassohardyastotread.Yetwhatwasittosee？——onlyaboundlesswasteofwater—
—notaglimpseofsmilingnature——notapatchoflivelygreentorelievetheachingsight，orvarytheobjectsofmeditation.
Ifeltmybreathoppressed，thoughnothingcouldbeclearerthantheatmosphere.Wanderingtherealone，Ifoundthesolitudedesirable;
mymindwasstoredwithideas，whichthisnewsceneassociatedwithastonishingrapidity.ButIshudderedatthethoughtofreceivingexistence，andremaininghere，inthesolitudeofignorance，tillforcedtoleaveaworldofwhichIhadseensolittle，forthecharacteroftheinhabitantsisasuncultivated，ifnotaspicturesquelywild，astheirabode.
Havingnoemploymentbuttraffic，ofwhichacontrabandtrademakesthebasisoftheirprofit，thecoarsestfeelingsofhonestyarequicklyblunted.YoumaysupposethatIspeakingeneralterms;andthat，withallthedisadvantagesofnatureandcircumstances，therearestillsomerespectableexceptions，themorepraiseworthy，astrickingisaverycontagiousmentaldisease，thatdriesupallthegenerousjuicesoftheheart.Nothinggenial，infact，appearsaroundthisplace，orwithinthecircleofitsrocks.And，nowI
recollect，itseemstomethatthemostgenialandhumanecharactersIhavemetwithinlifeweremostalivetothesentimentsinspiredbytranquilcountryscenes.What，indeed，istohumanisethesebeings，whorestshutup（fortheyseldomevenopentheirwindows），smoking，drinkingbrandy，anddrivingbargains？Ihavebeenalmoststifledbythesesmokers.Theybegininthemorning，andarerarelywithouttheirpipetilltheygotobed.Nothingcanbemoredisgustingthantheroomsandmentowardstheevening——breath，teeth，clothes，andfurniture，allarespoilt.Itiswellthatthewomenarenotverydelicate，ortheywouldonlylovetheirhusbandsbecausetheyweretheirhusbands.Perhaps，youmayadd，thattheremarkneednotbeconfinedtososmallapartoftheworld;and，entrenous，Iamofthesameopinion.Youmustnottermthisinnuendosaucy，foritdoesnotcomehome.
IfIhadnotdeterminedtowriteIshouldhavefoundmyconfinementhere，evenforthreeorfourdays，tedious.Ihavenobooks;andtopaceupanddownasmallroom，lookingattilesoverhungbyrocks，soonbecomeswearisome.Icannotmounttwohundredstepstowalkahundredyardsmanytimesintheday.Besides，therocks，retainingtheheatofthesun，areintolerablywarm.Iam，nevertheless，verywell;forthoughthereisashrewdnessinthecharacterofthesepeople，depravedbyasordidloveofmoneywhichrepelsme，stillthecomparisonstheyforcemetomakekeepmyheartcalmbyexercisingmyunderstanding.
Everywherewealthcommandstoomuchrespect，butherealmostexclusively;anditistheonlyobjectpursued，notthroughbrakeandbriar，butoverrocksandwaves;yetofwhatusewouldrichesbetome，Ihavesometimesaskedmyself，wereIconfinedtoliveinsuchinaspot？Icouldonlyrelieveafewdistressedobjects，perhapsrenderthemidle，andalltherestoflifewouldbeablank.
Mypresentjourneyhasgivenfreshforcetomyopinionthatnoplaceissodisagreeableandunimprovingasacountrytown.Ishouldliketodividemytimebetweenthetownandcountry;inalonehouse，withthebusinessoffarmingandplanting，wheremymindwouldgainstrengthbysolitarymusing，andinametropolistorubofftherustofthought，andpolishthetastewhichthecontemplationofnaturehadrenderedjust.Thusdowewishaswefloatdownthestreamoflife，whilstchancedoesmoretogratifyadesireofknowledgethanourbestlaidplans.Adegreeofexertion，producedbysomewant，moreorlesspainful，isprobablythepricewemustallpayforknowledge.Howfewauthorsorartistshavearrivedateminencewhohavenotlivedbytheiremployment？
Iwasinterruptedyesterdaybybusiness，andwasprevailedupontodinewiththeEnglishvice—consul.Hishousebeingopentothesea，Iwasmoreatlarge;andthehospitalityofthetablepleasedme，thoughthebottlewasrathertoofreelypushedabout.TheirmannerofentertainingwassuchasIhavefrequentlyremarkedwhenIhavebeenthrowninthewayofpeoplewithouteducation，whohavemoremoneythanwit——thatis，thantheyknowwhattodowith.Thewomenwereunaffected，buthadnotthenaturalgracewhichwasoftenconspicuousatTonsberg.Therewasevenastrikingdifferenceintheirdress，thesehavingloadedthemselveswithfineryinthestyleofthesailors’girlsofHullorPortsmouth.Tastehasnotyettaughtthemtomakeanybutanostentatiousdisplayofwealth.YetIcouldperceiveevenherethefirststepsoftheimprovementwhichIampersuadedwillmakeaveryobviousprogressinthecourseofhalfacentury，anditoughtnottobesooner，tokeeppacewiththecultivationoftheearth.Improvingmannerswillintroducefinermoralfeelings.TheybegintoreadtranslationsofsomeofthemostusefulGermanproductionslatelypublished，andoneofourpartysungasongridiculingthepowerscoalescedagainstFrance，andthecompanydrankconfusiontothosewhohaddismemberedPoland.
Theeveningwasextremelycalmandbeautiful.Notbeingabletowalk，Irequestedaboatastheonlymeansofenjoyingfreeair.
Theviewofthetownwasnowextremelyfine.Ahugerockymountainstoodupbehindit，andavastcliffstretchedoneachside，formingasemicircle.Inarecessoftherockswasaclumpofpines，amongstwhichasteeplerosepicturesquelybeautiful.
Thechurchyardisalmosttheonlyverdantspotintheplace.Here，indeed，friendshipextendsbeyondthegrave，andtograntasodofearthistoaccordafavour.Ishouldratherchoose，diditadmitofachoice，tosleepinsomeofthecavesoftherocks，forIambecomebetterreconciledtothemsinceIclimbedtheircraggysideslastnight，listeningtothefinestechoesIeverheard.WehadaFrenchhornwithus，andtherewasanenchantingwildnessinthedyingawayofthereverberationthatquicklytransportedmetoShakespeare’smagicisland.Spiritsunseenseemedtowalkabroad，andflitfromclifftoclifftosoothemysoultopeace.
Ireluctantlyreturnedtosupper，tobeshutupinawarmroom，onlytoviewthevastshadowsoftherocksextendingontheslumberingwaves.Istoodatthewindowsometimebeforeabuzzfilledthedrawing—room，andnowandthenthedashingofasolitaryoarrenderedthescenestillmoresolemn.
BeforeIcamehereIcouldscarcelyhaveimaginedthatasimpleobject（rocks）couldhaveadmittedofsomanyinterestingcombinations，alwaysgrandandoftensublime.Goodnight！Godblessyou！
LETTERXII.
IleftEastRusoerthedaybeforeyesterday.Theweatherwasveryfine;butsocalmthatweloiteredonthewaternearfourteenhours，onlytomakeaboutsixandtwentymiles.
ItseemedtomeasortofemancipationwhenwelandedatHelgeraac.
Theconfinementwhicheverywherestruckmewhilstsojourningamongsttherocks，mademehailtheearthasalandofpromise;andthesituationshonewithfreshlustrefromthecontrast——fromappearingtobeafreeabode.Hereitwaspossibletotravelbyland——Ineverthoughtthisacomfortbefore——andmyeyes，fatiguedbythesparklingofthesunonthewater，nowcontentedlyreposedonthegreenexpanse，halfpersuadedthatsuchverdantmeadshadnevertillthenregaledthem.
IroseearlytopursuemyjourneytoTonsberg.Thecountrystillworeafaceofjoy——andmysoulwasalivetoitscharms.Leavingthemostloftyandromanticofthecliffsbehindus，wewerealmostcontinuallydescendingtoTonsberg，throughElysianscenes;fornotonlythesea，butmountains，rivers，lakes，andgroves，gaveanalmostendlessvarietytotheprospect.Thecottagerswerestillcarryinghomethehay;andthecottagesonthisroadlookedverycomfortable.Peaceandplenty——Imeannotabundance——seemedtoreignaround——stillIgrewsadasIdrewnearmyoldabode.Iwassorrytoseethesunsohigh;itwasbroadnoon.Tonsbergwassomethinglikeahome——yetIwastoenterwithoutlightinguppleasureinanyeye.Idreadedthesolitarinessofmyapartment，andwishedfornighttohidethestartingtears，ortoshedthemonmypillow，andclosemyeyesonaworldwhereIwasdestinedtowanderalone.Whyhasnaturesomanycharmsforme——callingforthandcherishingrefinedsentiments，onlytowoundthebreastthatfostersthem？Howillusive，perhapsthemostso，aretheplansofhappinessfoundedonvirtueandprinciple;whatinletsofmiserydotheynotopeninahalf—civilisedsociety？Thesatisfactionarisingfromconsciousrectitude，willnotcalmaninjuredheart，whentendernessiseverfindingexcuses;andself—applauseisacoldsolitaryfeeling，thatcannotsupplytheplaceofdisappointedaffection，withoutthrowingagloomovereveryprospect，which，banishingpleasure，doesnotexcludepain.Ireasonedandreasoned;
butmyheartwastoofulltoallowmetoremaininthehouse，andI
walked，tillIwasweariedout，topurchaserest——orratherforgetfulness.
Employmenthasbeguiledthisday，andto—morrowIsetoutforMoss，onmywaytoStromstad.AtGothenburgIshallembracemyFannikin;
probablyshewillnotknowmeagain——andIshallbehurtifshedonot.Howchildishisthis！stillitisanaturalfeeling.Iwouldnotpermitmyselftoindulgethe\"thickcomingfears\"offondness，whilstIwasdetainedbybusiness.YetIneversawacalfboundinginameadow，thatdidnotremindmeofmylittlefrolicker.Acalf，yousay.Yes;butacapitaloneIown.
Icannotwritecomposedly——Iameveryinstantsinkingintoreveries—
—myheartflutters，Iknownotwhy.Fool！Itistimethouwertatrest.
Friendshipanddomestichappinessarecontinuallypraised;yethowlittleisthereofeitherintheworld，becauseitrequiresmorecultivationofmindtokeepawakeaffection，eveninourownhearts，thanthecommonrunofpeoplesuppose.Besides，fewliketobeseenastheyreallyare;andadegreeofsimplicity，andofundisguisedconfidence，which，touninterestedobservers，wouldalmostborderonweakness，isthecharm，naytheessenceofloveorfriendship，allthebewitchinggracesofchildhoodagainappearing.Asobjectsmerelytoexercisemytaste，Ithereforeliketoseepeopletogetherwhohaveanaffectionforeachother;everyturnoftheirfeaturestouchesme，andremainspicturedonmyimaginationinindeliblecharacters.Thezestofnoveltyis，however，necessarytorousethelanguidsympathieswhichhavebeenhackneyedintheworld;asisthefactitiousbehaviour，falselytermedgood—breeding，toamusethose，who，defectiveintaste，continuallyrelyforpleasureontheiranimalspirits，whichnotbeingmaintainedbytheimagination，areunavoidablysoonerexhaustedthanthesentimentsoftheheart.
Friendshipisingeneralsincereatthecommencement，andlastswhilstthereisanythingtosupportit;butasamixtureofnoveltyandvanityistheusualprop，nowonderifitfallwiththeslenderstay.Thefopintheplaypaidagreatercomplimentthanhewasawareofwhenhesaidtoaperson，whomhemeanttoflatter，\"IlikeyoualmostaswellasaNEWACQUAINTANCE.\"WhyamItalkingoffriendship，afterwhichIhavehadsuchawild—goosechase.I
thoughtonlyoftellingyouthatthecrows，aswellaswild—geese，areherebirdsofpassage.
LETTERXIII.
IleftTonsbergyesterday，the22ndofAugust.ItisonlytwelveorthirteenEnglishmilestoMoss，throughacountrylesswildthananytractIhadhithertopassedoverinNorway.Itwasoftenbeautiful，butseldomaffordedthosegrandviewswhichfillratherthansoothethemind.
Weglidedalongthemeadowsandthroughthewoods，withsunbeamsplayingaroundus;and，thoughnocastlesadornedtheprospects，agreaternumberofcomfortablefarmsmetmyeyesduringthisridethanIhaveeverseen，inthesamespace，eveninthemostcultivatedpartofEngland;andtheveryappearanceofthecottagesofthelabourerssprinkledamidstthemexcludedallthosegloomyideasinspiredbythecontemplationofpoverty.
Thehaywasstillbringingin，foroneharvestinNorwaytreadsontheheelsoftheother.Thewoodsweremorevariegated，interspersedwithshrubs.Wenolongerpassedthroughforestsofvastpinesstretchingalongwithsavagemagnificence.Foreststhatonlyexhibitedtheslowdecayoftimeorthedevastationproducedbywarringelements.No;oaks，ashes，beech，andallthelightandgracefultenantsofourwoodsheresportedluxuriantly.Ihadnotobservedmanyoaksbefore，forthegreaterpartoftheoak—planks，I
aminformed，comefromthewestward.
InFrancethefarmersgenerallyliveinvillages，whichisagreatdisadvantagetothecountry;buttheNorwegianfarmers，alwaysowningtheirfarmsorbeingtenantsforlife，resideinthemidstofthem，allowingsomelabourersadwellingrentfree，whohavealittlelandappertainingtothecottage，notonlyforagarden，butforcropsofdifferentkinds，suchasrye，oats，buck—wheat，hemp，flax，beans，potatoes，andhay，whicharesowninstripsaboutit，remindingastrangerofthefirstattemptsatculture，wheneveryfamilywasobligedtobeanindependentcommunity.
Thesecottagersworkatacertainprice（tenpenceperday）forthefarmersonwhosegroundtheylive，andtheyhavesparetimeenoughtocultivatetheirownlandandlayinastoreoffishforthewinter.Thewivesanddaughtersspinandthehusbandsandsonsweave，sothattheymayfairlybereckonedindependent，havingalsoalittlemoneyinhandtobuycoffee，brandyandsomeothersuperfluities.
TheonlythingIdislikedwasthemilitaryservice，whichtrammelsthemmorethanIatfirstimagined.Itistruethatthemilitiaisonlycalledoutonceayear，yetincaseofwartheyhavenoalternativebutmustabandontheirfamilies.Eventhemanufacturersarenotexempted，thoughtheminersare，inordertoencourageundertakingswhichrequireacapitalatthecommencement.And，whatappearsmoretyrannical，theinhabitantsofcertaindistrictsareappointedfortheland，othersfortheseaservice.Consequently，apeasant，bornasoldier，isnotpermittedtofollowhisinclinationshoulditleadhimtogotosea，anaturaldesirenearsomanyseaports.
Intheseregulationsthearbitrarygovernment——theKingofDenmarkbeingthemostabsolutemonarchinEurope——appears，whichinotherrespectsseekstohideitselfinalenitythatalmostrendersthelawsnullities.Ifanyalterationofoldcustomsisthoughtof，theopinionoftheoldcountryisrequiredandmaturelyconsidered.I
haveseveraltimeshadoccasiontoobservethat，fearingtoappeartyrannical，lawsareallowedtobecomeobsoletewhichoughttobeputinforceorbettersubstitutedintheirstead;forthismistakenmoderation，whichbordersontimidity，favourstheleastrespectablepartofthepeople.
Isawonmywaynotonlygoodparsonagehouses，butcomfortabledwellings，withglebelandfortheclerk，alwaysaconsequentialmanineverycountry，abeingproudofalittlesmatteringoflearning，tousetheappropriateepithet，andvainofthestiffgood—breedingreflectedfromthevicar，thoughtheservilitypractisedinhiscompanygivesitapeculiarcast.
Thewidowoftheclergymanisallowedtoreceivethebenefitofthelivingforatwelvemonthafterthedeathoftheincumbent.
Arrivingattheferry（thepassageovertoMossisaboutsixoreightEnglishmiles）IsawthemostlevelshoreIhadyetseeninNorway.TheappearanceofthecircumjacentcountryhadbeenpreparingmeforthechangeofscenewhichwastogreetmewhenI
reachedthecoast.ForthegrandfeaturesofnaturehadbeendwindlingintoprettinessasIadvanced;yettherocks，onasmallerscale，werefinelywoodedtothewater’sedge.Littleartappeared，yetsublimityeverywheregaveplacetoelegance.Theroadhadoftenassumedtheappearanceofagravelledone，madeinpleasure—grounds;
whilstthetreesexcitedonlyanideaofembellishment.Meadows，likelawns，inanendlessvariety，displayedthecarelessgracesofnature;andtheripeningcorngavearichnesstothelandscapeanalogouswiththeotherobjects.
Neverwasasouthernskymorebeautiful，normoresoftitsgales.
Indeed，Iamledtoconcludethatthesweetestsummerintheworldisthenorthernone，thevegetationbeingquickandluxuriantthemomenttheearthisloosenedfromitsicyfettersandtheboundstreamsregaintheirwontedactivity.ThebalanceofhappinesswithrespecttoclimatemaybemoreequalthanIatfirstimagined;fortheinhabitantsdescribewithwarmththepleasuresofawinteratthethoughtsofwhichIshudder.Notonlytheirpartiesofpleasurebutofbusinessarereservedforthisseason，whentheytravelwithastonishingrapiditythemostdirectway，skimmingoverhedgeandditch.
OnenteringMossIwasstruckbytheanimationwhichseemedtoresultfromindustry.Therichestoftheinhabitantskeepshops，resemblingintheirmannersandeventhearrangementoftheirhousesthetradespeopleofYorkshire;withanairofmoreindependence，orratherconsequence，fromfeelingthemselvesthefirstpeopleintheplace.Ihadnottimetoseetheiron—works，belongingtoMr.
Anker，ofChristiania，amanoffortuneandenterprise;andIwasnotveryanxioustoseethemafterhavingviewedthoseatLaurvig.
HereImetwithanintelligentliteraryman，whowasanxioustogatherinformationfrommerelativetothepastandpresentsituationofFrance.ThenewspapersprintedatCopenhagen，aswellasthoseinEngland，givethemostexaggeratedaccountsoftheiratrocitiesanddistresses，buttheformerwithoutanyapparentcommentsorinferences.StilltheNorwegians，thoughmoreconnectedwiththeEnglish，speakingtheirlanguageandcopyingtheirmanners，wishwelltotheRepublicancause，andfollowwiththemostlivelyinterestthesuccessesoftheFrencharms.Sodeterminedwerethey，infact，toexcuseeverything，disgracingthestruggleoffreedom，byadmittingthetyrant’splea，necessity，thatIcouldhardlypersuadethemthatRobespierrewasamonster.
ThediscussionofthissubjectisnotsogeneralasinEngland，beingconfinedtothefew，theclergyandphysicians，withasmallportionofpeoplewhohavealiteraryturnandleisure;thegreaterpartoftheinhabitantshavingavarietyofoccupations，beingownersofships，shopkeepers，andfarmers，haveemploymentenoughathome.Andtheirambitiontobecomerichmaytendtocultivatethecommonsensewhichcharacterisesandnarrowsboththeirheartsandviews，confirmingtheformertotheirfamilies，takingthehandmaidsofitintothecircleofpleasure，ifnotofinterest，andthelattertotheinspectionoftheirworkmen，includingthenoblescienceofbargain—making——thatis，gettingeverythingatthecheapest，andsellingitatthedearestrate.Iamnowmorethaneverconvincedthatitisanintercoursewithmenofscienceandartistswhichnotonlydiffusestaste，butgivesthatfreedomtotheunderstandingwithoutwhichIhaveseldommetwithmuchbenevolenceofcharacteronalargescale.
Besides，thoughyoudonothearofmuchpilferingandstealinginNorway，yettheywill，withaquietconscience，buythingsatapricewhichmustconvincethemtheywerestolen.Ihadanopportunityofknowingthattwoorthreereputablepeoplehadpurchasedsomearticlesofvagrants，whoweredetected.Howmuchofthevirtuewhichappearsintheworldisputonfortheworld？Andhowlittledictatedbyself—respect？——solittle，thatIamreadytorepeattheoldquestion，andask，Whereistruth，orratherprinciple，tobefound？Theseare，perhaps，thevapouringsofaheartillatease——theeffusionsofasensibilitywoundedalmosttomadness.Butenoughofthis;wewilldiscussthesubjectinanotherstateofexistence，wheretruthandjusticewillreign.Howcruelaretheinjurieswhichmakeusquarrelwithhumannature！Atpresentblackmelancholyhoversroundmyfootsteps;andsorrowshedsamildewoverallthefutureprospects，whichhopenolongergilds.
Arainymorningpreventedmyenjoyingthepleasuretheviewofapicturesquecountrywouldhaveaffordedme;forthoughthisroadpassedthroughacountryagreaterextentofwhichwasundercultivationthanIhadusuallyseenhere，itneverthelessretainedallthewildcharmsofNorway.Rocksstillenclosedthevalleys，thegreatsidesofwhichenlivenedtheirverdure.Lakesappearedlikebranchesofthesea，andbranchesoftheseaassumedtheappearanceoftranquillakes;whilststreamletsprattledamongstthepebblesandthebrokenmassofstonewhichhadrolledintothem，givingfantasticturnstothetrees，therootsofwhichtheybared.
Itisnot，infact，surprisingthatthepineshouldbeoftenundermined;itshootsitsfibresinsuchahorizontaldirection，merelyonthesurfaceoftheearth，requiringonlyenoughtocoverthosethatclingtothecrags.Nothingprovestomesoclearlythatitistheairwhichprincipallynourishestreesandplantsastheflourishingappearanceofthesepines.Thefirs，demandingadeepersoil，areseldomseeninequalhealth，orsonumerousonthebarrencliffs.Theytakeshelterinthecrevices，orwhere，aftersomerevolvingages，thepineshavepreparedthemafooting.
Approaching，orratherdescending，toChristiania，thoughtheweathercontinuedalittlecloudy，myeyeswerecharmedwiththeviewofanextensiveundulatedvalley，stretchingoutundertheshelterofanobleamphitheatreofpine—coveredmountains.Farmhousesscatteredaboutanimated，nay，gracedascenewhichstillretainedsomuchofitsnativewildness，thattheartwhichappearedseemedsonecessary，itwasscarcelyperceived.Cattleweregrazingintheshavenmeadows;andthelivelygreenontheirswellingsidescontrastedwiththeripeningcornandrye.Thecornthatgrewontheslopeshadnot，indeed，thelaughingluxurianceofplenty，whichIhaveseeninmoregenialclimes.Afreshbreezesweptacrossthegrain，partingitsslenderstalks，butthewheatdidnotwaveitsheadwithitswontedcarelessdignity，asifnaturehadcrowneditthekingofplants.
Theview，immediatelyontheleft，aswedrovedownthemountain，wasalmostspoiltbythedepredationscommittedontherockstomakealum.Idonotknowtheprocess.Ionlysawthattherockslookedredaftertheyhadbeenburnt，andregrettedthattheoperationshouldleaveaquantityofrubbishtointroduceanimageofhumanindustryintheshapeofdestruction.ThesituationofChristianiaiscertainlyuncommonlyfine，andIneversawabaythatsoforciblygavemeanideaofaplaceofsafetyfromthestormsoftheocean;
allthesurroundingobjectswerebeautifulandevengrand.Butneithertherockymountains，northewoodsthatgracedthem，couldbecomparedwiththesublimeprospectsIhadseentothewestward;
andasforthehills，\"cappedwithETERNALsnow，\"Mr.Coxe’sdescriptionledmetolookforthem，buttheyhadflown，forI
lookedvainlyaroundforthisnoblebackground.
AfewmonthsagothepeopleofChristianiarose，exasperatedbythescarcityandconsequenthighpriceofgrain.Theimmediatecausewastheshippingofsome，saidtobeforMoss，butwhichtheysuspectedwasonlyapretexttosenditoutofthecountry，andIamnotsurethattheywerewrongintheirconjecture.Sucharethetricksoftrade.TheythrewstonesatMr.Anker，theownerofit，asherodeoutoftowntoescapefromtheirfury;theyassembledabouthishouse，andthepeopledemandedafterwards，withsomuchimpetuosity，thelibertyofthosewhoweretakenupinconsequenceofthetumult，thattheGrandBailiffthoughtitprudenttoreleasethemwithoutfurtheraltercation.
Youmaythinkmetoosevereoncommerce，butfromthemanneritisatpresentcarriedonlittlecanbeadvancedinfavourofapursuitthatwearsoutthemostsacredprinciplesofhumanityandrectitude.
Whatisspeculationbutaspeciesofgambling，Imighthavesaidfraud，inwhichaddressgenerallygainstheprize？IwasledintothesereflectionswhenIheardofsometrickspractisedbymerchants，miscalledreputable，andcertainlymenofproperty，duringthepresentwar，inwhichcommonhonestywasviolated：
damagedgoodsandprovisionhavingbeenshippedfortheexpresspurposeoffallingintothehandsoftheEnglish，whohadpledgedthemselvestoreimburseneutralnationsforthecargoestheyseized;
cannonalso，sentbackasunfitforservice，havebeenshippedasagoodspeculation，thecaptainreceivingorderstocruiseabouttillhefellinwithanEnglishfrigate.ManyindividualsIbelievehavesufferedbytheseizuresoftheirvessels;stillIampersuadedthattheEnglishGovernmenthasbeenverymuchimposeduponinthechargesmadebymerchantswhocontrivedtogettheirshipstaken.
ThiscensureisnotconfinedtotheDanes.Adieu，forthepresent，Imusttakeadvantageofamomentoffineweathertowalkoutandseethetown.
AtChristianiaImetwiththatpolitereception，whichrathercharacterisestheprogressofmannersintheworld，thanofanyparticularportionofit.ThefirsteveningofmyarrivalIsuppedwithsomeofthemostfashionablepeopleoftheplace，andalmostimaginedmyselfinacircleofEnglishladies，somuchdidtheyresembletheminmanners，dress，andeveninbeauty;forthefairestofmycountrywomenwouldnothavebeensorrytorankwiththeGrandBailiff’slady.Therewereseveralprettygirlspresent，butsheoutshonethemall，and，whatinterestedmestillmore，Icouldnotavoidobservingthatinacquiringtheeasypolitenesswhichdistinguishespeopleofquality，shehadpreservedherNorwegiansimplicity.Therewas，infact，agracefultimidityinheraddress，inexpressiblycharming.Thissurprisedmealittle，becauseherhusbandwasquiteaFrenchmanoftheancienregime，orratheracourtier，thesamekindofanimalineverycountry.
HereIsawtheclovenfootofdespotism.IboastedtoyouthattheyhadnoviceroyinNorway，buttheseGrandBailiffs，particularlythesuperiorone，whoresidesatChristiania，arepoliticalmonstersofthesamespecies.NeedysycophantsareprovidedforbytheirrelationsandconnectionsatCopenhagenasatothercourts.AndthoughtheNorwegiansarenotintheabjectstateoftheIrish，yetthissecond—handgovernmentisstillfeltbytheirbeingdeprivedofseveralnaturaladvantagestobenefitthedomineeringstate.
TheGrandBailiffsaremostlynoblemenfromCopenhagen，whoactasmenofcommonmindswillalwaysactinsuchsituations——apingadegreeofcourtlyparadewhichclasheswiththeindependentcharacterofamagistrate.Besides，theyhaveadegreeofpoweroverthecountryjudges，whichsomeofthem，whoexerciseajurisdictiontrulypatriarchalmostpainfullyfeel.Icanscarcelysaywhy，myfriend，butinthiscitythoughtfulnessseemedtobeslidingintomelancholyorratherdulness.Thefireoffancy，whichhadbeenkeptaliveinthecountry，wasalmostextinguishedbyreflectionsontheillsthatharasssuchalargeportionofmankind.
Ifeltlikeabirdflutteringonthegroundunabletomount，yetunwillingtocrawltranquillylikeareptile，whilststillconsciousithadwings.
1walkedout，fortheopenairisalwaysmyremedywhenanachingheadproceedsfromanoppressedheart.Chancedirectedmystepstowardsthefortress，andthesightoftheslaves，workingwithchainsontheirlegs，onlyservedtoembittermestillmoreagainsttheregulationsofsociety，whichtreatedknavesinsuchadifferentmanner，especiallyastherewasadegreeofenergyinsomeoftheircountenanceswhichunavoidablyexcitedmyattention，andalmostcreatedrespect.
Iwishedtohaveseen，throughanirongrate，thefaceofamanwhohasbeenconfinedsixyearsforhavinginducedthefarmerstorevoltagainstsomeimpositionsoftheGovernment.Icouldnotobtainaclearaccountoftheaffair，yet，asthecomplaintwasagainstsomefarmersoftaxes，Iaminclinedtobelievethatitwasnottotallywithoutfoundation.Hemusthavepossessedsomeeloquence，orhavehadtruthonhisside;forthefarmersrosebyhundredstosupporthim，andwereverymuchexasperatedathisimprisonment，whichwillprobablylastforlife，thoughhehassentseveralveryspiritedremonstrancestotheuppercourt，whichmakesthejudgessoaversetogivingasentencewhichmaybecavilledat，thattheytakeadvantageofthegloriousuncertaintyofthelaw，toprotractadecisionwhichisonlytoberegulatedbyreasonsofstate.
ThegreaternumberoftheslavesIsawherewerenotconfinedforlife.Theirlabourisnothard;andtheyworkintheopenair，whichpreventstheirconstitutionsfromsufferingbyimprisonment.
Still，astheyareallowedtoassociatetogether，andboastoftheirdexterity，notonlytoeachotherbuttothesoldiersaroundthem，inthegarrison;theycommonly，itisnaturaltoconclude，gooutmoreconfirmedandmoreexpertknavesthanwhentheyentered.
Itisnotnecessarytotracetheoriginoftheassociationofideaswhichledmetothinkthatthestarsandgoldkeys，whichsurroundedmetheeveningbefore，disgracedthewearersasmuchasthefettersIwasviewing——perhapsmore.Ievenbegantoinvestigatethereason，whichledmetosuspectthattheformerproducedthelatter.
TheNorwegiansareextravagantlyfondofcourtlydistinction，andoftitles，thoughtheyhavenoimmunitiesannexedtothem，andareeasilypurchased.Theproprietorsofmineshavemanyprivileges：
theyarealmostexemptfromtaxes，andthepeasantrybornontheirestates，aswellasthoseonthecounts’，arenotbornsoldiersorsailors.
Onedistinction，orrathertrophyofnobility，whichImighthaveoccurredtotheHottentots，amusedme;itwasabunchofhog’sbristlesplacedonthehorses’heads，surmountingthatpartoftheharnesstowhicharoundpieceofbrassoftendangles，fatiguingtheeyewithitsidlemotion.