第1章

LETTER：TOW。D。B。ANDA。B。

LIVERPOOL，October26，1846

Mydearsons：ThankGodwithmethatweareoncemoreonTERRA

FIRMA。Wearrivedyesterdaymorningatteno’clock，afteraveryroughvoyageandafterridingallnightintheChannelinatremendousgale，sobadthatnopilotcouldreachustobringusinonSaturdayevening。Arecordofaseavoyagewillbeonlyinterestingtoyouwholoveme，butImustgiveittoyouthatyoumayknowwhattoexpectifyoueverundertakeit；butfirst，Imustsumitallupbysayingthatofallhorrors，ofallphysicalmiseries，tortures，anddistresses，aseavoyageisthegreatest……TheLiverpoolpaperthismorning，afterannouncingourarrivalsays：\"TheGREATWESTERn，notwithstandingsheencounteredthroughoutaseriesofmostseveregales，accomplishedthepassageinsixteendaysandtwelvehours。\"

TobeginatthemomentIleftNewYork：IwassoabsorbedbythepainofpartingfromyouthatIwasinastateofcompleteapathywithregardtoallaboutme。Ididnotsentimentalizeabout\"therecedingshoresofmycountry；\"Ihardlylookedatthem，indeed。

FridayIwasawokeinthemiddleofthenightbytheroaringofthewindandseaandSUCHmotionofthevessel。

ThegalelastedallSaturdayandSunday，strongfromtheNorth，andaswewereintheregionwherethewatersoftheBayofFundyrunoutandmeetthoseoftheGulfofSt。Lawrence，afterwardswehadastrongcrosssea。Mayyouneverexperiencea\"crosssea。\"……OhhowIwishedithadpleasedGodtoplantsomelittleislandsasresting—placesinthegreatwasteofwaters，somerestingstation。

Butno，wemustkeepon，on，witheverythinginmotionthatyoureyecouldreston。Everythingtumblingabout……Welivedthroughit，however，andthesunofSundaymornroseclearandbright。ApilotgotonboardaboutsevenandattenwewereinLiverpool。

WeareattheAdelphi。BeforeIhadtakenoffmybonnetMr。RichardRathbone，oneofthewealthiestmerchantshere，calledtoinviteustodinethenextday……Mrs。RichardRathbonehaswrittenthatbeautiful\"DiaryofLadyWilloughby，\"and，whatismore，theysayitisaperfectreflectofherownlovelylifeandcharacter。Whenshepublishedthebooknooneknewofitbutherhusband，notevenherbrothersandsisters，and，ofcourse，sheconstantlyheardspeculationsastotheauthenticityofthebook，andwasoftenappealedtoforheropinion。Sheisveryunpretendingandsweetinhermanners；talkslittle，andseemsnotatalllikealiterarylady。

IlikethesepeopleinLiverpool。Theyseemtometothinklessoffashionandmoreofsubstantialexcellencethanourwealthypeople。

Iamnotsurebuttheexistenceofahigherclassabovethemhasafavorableeffect，bylimitingtheminsomeways。Thereismuchlessshowoffurnitureinthehousesthanwithus，thoughtheirservantsandequipagesareinmuchbetterkeeping。Iamnotsorrytobedetainedhereforafewdaysbymyillnesstobecomeacquaintedwiththem，andIthinkyourfatherlikesitalso，andwillfinditusefultohim。Letmesay，whileIthinkofit，howmuchIwaspleasedwiththeGREATWESTERN。Thatuppersaloonwiththeairpassingthroughitwasagreatcomforttome。Thecaptain，theservants，thetable，areallexcellent。Everythingonboardwasasniceasinthebesthotel，andmygruelsandbrothsbeautifullymade。OneofthestewardessesdidmoreformethanIeverhaddonebyanyservantofmyown……YourfatherandLouisawereillbutthreeorfourdays，andthenyourfatherreadTacitusandtalkedtotheladies，whileLouisaplayedwiththeotherchildren。

TheAdelphi，myfirstspecimenofanEnglishhotel，isperfectlycomfortable，andthoughanimmenseestablishment，isquietasaprivatehouse。ThereisnoneofthebustleoftheAstor，andifI

ringmybedroombellitisansweredbyawomanwhoattendstomeassiduously。Thelandlordpaysusavisiteverydaytoknowifwehaveallwewish。

LONDON，Sunday，November1

HereIaminthemightyheart，butbeforeIsayonewordaboutitI

willgoonfromWednesdayeveningwithmyjournal。OnThursday，thoughstillveryfeeble，IdinedatGreenBank，thecountry—seatofMr。WilliamRathbone。IwasunwillingtoleaveLiverpoolwithoutsharingwithyourfathersomeofthehospitalitiesofferedtousandmadeagreatefforttogo。Theplaceisverybeautifulandthehousefullofcomfortableelegance。

ThenextmorningwestartedforBirmingham，ninety—sevenmilesfromLiverpool，onourwaytoLondon，asIamunabletotravelthewholewayinaday。OnthisrailwayIfeltforthefirsttimethesuperiorityofEnglandtoourowncountry。Thecarsaredividedintofirst，second，andthirdclasses。Wetookafirst—classcar，whichhasallthecomfortsofaprivatecarriage。

JustasweenteredBirminghamIobservedthefinestseat，surroundedbyaparkwallandwithaverypicturesqueoldchurch，thatIhadseenontheway。OnenquiringofyoungMr。VanWart，whocametoseeusinBirmingham（thenephewofWashingtonIrving），whoseplaceitwas，hesaiditwasnowcalledAstonHallandwasownedbyMr。

Watt，butitwasformerlyownedbytheBracebridges，andwastheveritable\"BracebridgeHall，\"andthathisunclehadpassedhisChristmasthere。

OnarrivingherewefoundourroomsallreadyforusatLong’sHotel，keptbyMr。Markwell，awinemerchant。ThehouseisinNewBondStreet，intheverycentreofmovementattheWestEnd，andMr。

Markwellfullofpersonalassiduity，whichweneverseewithus。Hecomestothecarriagehimself，givesmehisarmtogoupstairs，issomuchobligedtousforhonoringhishouse，ushersyouintodinner，atleastonthefirstday，andseatsyou，etc。，etc。

Donotimagineusinfresh，new—lookingroomsasweshouldbeinNewYorkorPhiladelphia。No，inLondonevennewthingslookold，butalmosteverythingISold。Ourparlorhasthreewindowsdowntothefloor，butitisverydark。Thepaintismaplecolor，andeverythingisdingyinappearance。Thewindowinmybedroomlookslikeahornlantern，sothickisthesmoke，andyeteverythingisscrupulouslyclean。Onourarrival，Boyd，theSecretaryofLegation，sooncame，andstayedtodinewithusatsix。Ourdinnerwasanexcellentsoup，theboiledcodgarnishedwithfriedsmelts，theroastbeefandaFRICANDEAUwithsweetbreads，thenapheasant，andafterwards，dessert。

ThismorningMr。Batescameveryearlytoseeus，andthenMr。

JosephCoolidge，wholooksveryyoungandhandsome；thenMr。Colman，whoalsolooksverywell，Mr。BoydandaMr。Haight，ofNewYork，andMr。Gair，sonofMr。GairofLiverpool，apleasingyoungman。

MondayEveningThismorningcameMr。Aspinwall，thenCaptainWormeley，thenDr。

Holland，thenMrs。Bates，thenMr。JosephJayandhissister，thenTomAppleton，Mrs。andMissWormeley，andMrs。FranklinDexter。Dr。

Hollandcameasecondtimetotakemeadrive，butMrs。Batesbeingwithmehetookyourfather。Mrs。Batestookmetodosomeshopping，andtoseeaboutsomehouses。Theyareverydesirousweshouldbeintheirneighborhood，inPortlandPlace，butIhaveafancymyselfforthenewpartoftown。Ihavebeensousedallmylifetoseethingsfreshandclean—looking，thatIcannotgetaccustomedtotheLondondinge，andsomeofthefinesthouseslooktomeasthoughIwouldliketogivethemagoodscouring。TellCousinM。nevertocometoEngland，shewouldbeshockedeveryminute，withallthegrandeur。Anewcountryiscleaner—looking，thoughitmaynotbesopicturesque。

IgotyourletterswhenIarrivedhere，andIwishthismaygiveyoubutalittlepleasuretheygaveme。Prayneverletasteamercomewithoutatokenfrombothofyou……WithlovetoGrandmaandUncleThomas，believeme，withmorelovethaneverbefore，ELIZABETHD。BANCROFT

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，November3，1846……Thisday，atfive，yourfatherhadhisfirstinterviewwithLordPalmerston，whowillacquainttheQueenwithhisarrival，andaftershehasreceivedhimweshallleaveourcardsuponalltheministersandCORPSDIPLOMATIQUE。

November4thYourfatherhadamostagreeabledinneratLordHolland’s。HemetthereLordandLadyPalmerston，LordMorpeth，LorddeMauley，Mr。

Harcourt，asonoftheArchbishopofYork，etc。HetookoutLadyHollandandLordMorpeth，LadyPalmerston，theonlyladiespresent。

HollandHouseissurroundedby200acresinthemidstofthewesternpartofLondon，orratherKensington。LordHollandhasnochildren，andthefamilydieswithhim。TheydinedintheroominwhichAddisondied。

To—day，tomysurprise，cameLadyPalmerston，whichwasagreatcourtesy，asitwasmyplacetomakethefirstvisit。SheisthesisterofLordMelbourne。LorddeMauleyhasalsobeenhere……

To—dayIhavebeendrivingthroughsomeofthebeststreetsinLondon，andmyideasofitsextentandmagnificencearerisingfast。

Thehousesaremorepicturesquethanours，andsomeofthemmostnoble。Thevastnessofagreatcapitallikethiscannotburstupononeatonce。Itseffectincreasesdaily。TheextentofthePark，surroundedbymansionswhichlook，someofthem，likeawholehistoryinthemselves，hasto—dayquitedazzledmyimagination。

November5thThismorning，Thursday，cameaninvitationtodinewithLordandLadyPalmerstononSaturday。SirGeorgeGrey，anotheroftheministers，cametoseeusto—dayandLordMahon。YourfatherandI

havebeenallthemorninglookingathouses，andhavenearlyconcludedupononeinEatonSquare。Wefindahotelveryexpensive，andnotverycomfortableforus，asyourfatherisveryrestivewithouthisbooksabouthim。Mr。Harcourtalsocametoseeusto—

day。ImentionasmanyofthenamesofourvisitorsasIcanrecollect，asitwillgiveyousomeideaofthecompositionofEnglishsociety……Thismomentalargecardinanenvelopehasbeenbroughtme，whichrunsthus：\"TheLordStewardhasreceivedHerMajesty’scommandstoinviteMr。BancrofttodinneratWindsorCastleonThursday，12thNovember，toremainuntilFriday，13th。\"I

amgladhewilldinetherebeforeme，thathemaytellmetheorderofperformances。

Friday，November6th……Wehadto—dayadelightfulvisitfromRogers，thePoet，whoisnowquiteold，butwithamostinterestingcountenance。Hewasfullofcordiality，and，atparting，ashetookmyhand，said：\"Ouracquaintancemustbecomefriendship。\"Mr。Harcourtcameagainandsatanhourwithus，andhasintroducedyourfatherattheTraveller’sClubandtheAthenaeumClub。To—nightcamemynewlady’smaid，Russell。Shedresseshairbeautifully，butisrathertoogreatapersontosuitmyfancy。

SundayEvening，November8thOnFridayeveningwemetatMrs。Wormeley’sacosylittleknotofAmericans。TheDexterswerestayingthereandtherewereMr。andMrs。AtkinsonandMissPratt，Mr。andMrs。Aspinwall，Mr。andMissJay，Mr。andMrs。Putnam，Mr。Colman，Mr。Pickering，etc。

WednesdayEveningOnMondaywecametoourHOME，preferringittothehotel，thoughitisnotyetinorderforourreception，andwehavenotyetallourservants。LasteveningwedinedwithLordMorpethathisfather’shouse。Hisfamilyarealloutoftown，butheremainsbecauseofhisministerialduties。LordMorpethtookmeoutandIsatbetweenhimandSirGeorgeGrey。YourfathertookoutLadyTheresaLewis，whoisasisterofLordClarendon。ShewasfullofintelligenceandIlikeherextremely。BaronandLadyParke（adistinguishedjudge），LadyMorgan，Mr。Mackintosh，Dr。andMrs。Holland（SidneySmith’sdaughter），andMr。andMrs。FranklinDexter，withseveralothersweretheparty。

DuringdinneronegentlemanwassoveryagreeablethatIwonderedwhohecouldbe，butasLordPalmerstonhadtoldmethatMr。

MacaulaywasinEdinburgh，Ididnotthinkofhim。Aftertheladiesleftthegentlemen，myfirstquestiontoMrs。Hollandwasthenameofhernextneighbor。\"Why，Mr。Macaulay，\"washeranswer，andI

waspleasednottohavebeendisappointedinapersonofwhomIhadheardsomuch。WhenthegentlemencameinIwasintroducedtohimandtalkedtohimandheardhimtalknotalittle。

Thesepersonsallcamethenextdaytoseeus，whichgaverisetofreshinvitations。

ThismorningwehavebeendrivingroundtoleavecardsontheCORPS

DIPLOMATIQUE，andMr。HarcourthastakenmeallovertheAthenaeumClub—house，asuperbestablishment。TheyhavegivenyourfatheraninvitationtotheClub，aprivilegewhichissometimessoughtforyears，Mr。Harcourtsays……HaveInotneededallmyenergies？

Wehavebeenherejustafortnight，andIcamesoillthatIcouldhardlywalk。Wearenowathousekeeping，andIaminthefullcareerinLondonsociety。TheytoldmeIshouldseenooneuntilspring，butyouseewedineoutorgooutintheeveningalmosteveryday……ForthegratificationofS。D。orAuntI。，whomaywonderhowIgetalongindressmatters，goingoutasIdidinmyplainblackdress，IwilltellyouthatMrs。Murray，theQueen’sdressmaker，mademe，assoonasIfoundthesecallsandinvitationspouringin，twodresses。Oneofblackvelvet，verylow，withshortsleeves，andanotherofveryrichblackwateredsilk，withdraperyofblacktulleonthecorsageandsleeves……Ihavefittedmyselfwithseveralprettylittlehead—dresses，someinsilver，somewithplumes，butallwhite，andIfindmyvelvetandsilksuitalloccasions。Idonotlikediningwithbarearmsandneck，butI

must。

Tuesday，November17thLasteveningwepassedattheEarlofAuckland’s，theheadoftheAdmiralty。ThepartywasattheAdmiralty，wherethereisabeautifulresidenceforthefirstlord……IhadalongtalkwithLordMorpethlasteveningaboutMr。Sumner，andtoldhimofhisnomination。Hehasastrongregardforhim……NotamomenthaveIhadtoaLondon\"lion。\"IhavedrivenpastWestminster，buthavenotbeeninit。IhaveseennothingofLondonbutwhatcameinmywayinreturningvisits。

LETTER：ToI。P。D。

LONDON，November17，1846

MydearUncle：IcannothelprefreshingtheremembranceofmewithyouanddearAuntybyaddressingaseparatelettertoyou……

Yesterdaywehailedwithdelightourlettersfromhome……Onefeelsinaforeignlandtheabsenceofcommonsympathiesandinterests，whichalwayssurroundusinanypartofourowncountry。

Andyetnothingcanexceedthekindnesswithwhichwehavebeenreceivedhere。

LasteveningIwenttomyfirstgreatEnglishdinneranditwasamostagreeableone……Itseemsalittleoddtoarepublicanwomantofindherselfinrightofhercountrytakingprecedenceofmarchionesses，butonesoongetsusedtoallthings。Wesatdowntodinnerateightandgotthroughaboutten。Whentheladiesrose，I

foundIwasexpectedtogofirst。Afterdinnerotherguestswereinvitedandtothefirstpersonwhocamein，abouthalf—pastten，LadyPalmerstonsaid：\"Oh，thankyouforcomingsoearly。\"ThiswasLadyTankervilleoftheoldFrenchfamilyofdeGrammontandniecetoPrincePolignac。ThenextwasLadyEmilydeBurgh，thedaughteroftheMarchionessofClanricarde，abeautifulgirlofseventeen。Sheisverylovely，wearsaGrecianbraidroundherheadlikeacoronet，andalwayssitsbyhermother，whichwouldnotsuitouryounggirls。ThencameLordandLadyAshley，LordEbrington，andsomanytitledpersonagesthatIcannotrememberhalf。

Thedinnerismuchthesameasoursinallitsmodesofserving，buttheyhavesolesandturbot，insteadofourfishes，andtheirpheasantsarenotourpheasants，ortheirpartridgesourpartridges。

Neitherhavewesomanyfootmenwithliveriesofallcolours，orsomuchgoldandsilverplate……ThenextmorningMr。BancroftbreakfastedwithDr。HollandtomeettheMarquisofLansdownealone。

[Thursday]hewentdowntoWindsortodinewiththeQueen。HetookouttodinnertheQueen’smother，theDuchessofKent，theQueengoingwiththePrinceofSaxe—Weimar，whowaspayingavisitattheCastle。HetalkedGermantotheDuchessduringdinner，whichI

suspectsheliked，fortheQueenspokeofittohimafterwards，andLordPalmerstontoldmetheDuchesssaidhespokeverypureGerman。

WhilehewasdiningatWindsorIwenttoapartyallaloneattheCountessGrey’s，whichIthoughtrequiredsomecourage。

OfallthepersonsIseeheretheMarquisofLansdowneexcitesthemostlivelyregard。HiscountenanceandmannersarefullofbenevolenceandIthinkheunderstandsAmericabetterthananyoneelseofthehigharistocracy。ItoldhimIwasbornatPlymouthandwasasproudofmypureAnglo—SaxonPilgrimdescentasifitweretracedfromalineofNormanConquerors。Nearlyalltheministersandtheirwivescametoseeusimmediately，withoutwaitingforustomakethefirstvisit，whichistherule，andalmosteverypersonwhomwehavemetinsociety，whichcertainlyindicatesanamiablefeelingtowardourcountry。Wecouldnotwellhavereceivedmorecourtesythanwehavedone，andithasbeenextendedfreelyandimmediately，withoutwaitingfortheformsofetiquette。PraysaytoMr。Everetthowoftenwehearpersonsspeakofhim，andwithhighestregard。Ifeelasifwewerereapingsomeofthefruitsofhissowing。

Mr。Bancroftsendsyouapackofcards，oneoftheidenticaltwopackswithwhichtheQueenplayedPatiencetheeveninghewasatWindsor。Theyweretheperquisiteofapagewhobroughtthemtohim。HewasmuchpleasedwiththeQueenandthoughthermuchprettierthananyrepresentationofherwhichwehaveseen，andwithaverysweetexpression。LadyHollandhadbeenstayingtwoorthreedaysatWindsor，andwastoleavethenextmorning。WhentheQueentookleaveofheratnight，shekissedherquiteinmyVirginiafashion。

DearUncle：Howmuchmoreyourniecewouldhavewrittenifto—daywerenotpacketday，Icannotsay。IshallsendyousomenewspapersandapackofcardswhichIsawintheQueen’shands。TheAmericanMinisterandMrs。Bancrofthavesinceplayedagameofpiquetwiththem。TheQueen’shandswereascleanashersmilewasgracious。

BestregardstotheJudgeandAuntIsaac。

Yoursmosttruly，GeorgeBancroft。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，November29，1846

AfteralongintervalIfindagainaquietSundayeveningtoresumemyjournaltoyou。OnMondaywedinedatLordJohnRussell’s，andmetmanyofthepersonswehavemetbeforeandtheDuchessofInverness，thewidowoftheDukeofSussex。OnTuesdaywedinedatDr。Holland’s。Hiswifeanddaughterarecharming，andthenwemet，besides，LadyCharlotteLindsay，theonlysurvivingchildofLordNorth，Mr。andMrs。Milman（theauthorofthe\"FallofJerusalem\"），andMr。Macaulay。YesterdayIwenttoreturnthevisitoftheMilmansandfoundthattheentrancetotheirhouse，hebeingaprebendofWestminsterAbbey，wasactuallyinthecloistersoftheAbbey。Theywerenotathome，butItookmyfootmanandwanderedatleisurethroughthecloisters，treadingateverysteponthetombofsomeoldabbotwithdatesof1160andthereabouts。

NothingcouldbemoredelightfulthanLondonisnow，ifIhadonlyalittlemorephysicalvigortoenjoyit。Weseeeverybodymorefrequently，andknowthembetterthaninthefullseason，andwehavesomeofthebestspecimensofEnglishsociety，too，herejustnow，astheWhigministrybringsagooddealoftheabilityofthearistocracytoitsaid。Thesubjectsofconversationamongwomenaremoregeneralthanwithus，and[they]aremuchmorecultivatedthanourwomenasabody，notourblues。Theyneversew，orattend，aswedo，todomesticaffairs，andsoliveforsociallifeandunderstanditbetter。

LONDON，December2，1846

MydearMrs。Polk：youtoldmewhenIpartedfromyouatWashingtonthatyouwouldliketogetfrommeoccasionallysomeaccountsofmyexperiencesinEnglishsociety。Ithoughtatthattimethatweshouldseeverylittleofituntilthespring，butcontrarytomyexpectationwehavebeenoutalmosteverydaysinceourarrival。WemadeourDEBUTinLondononthefirstdayofNovember（thesuicidalmonthyouknow）inthemidstofanorange—coloredfog，inwhichyoucouldnotseeyourhandbeforeyou。Theprospectforthewinterseemed，Imustsay，rather\"triste，\"butthenextdaythefogclearedoff，peoplecameconstantlytoseeus，andwehadagreeableinvitationsforeveryday，andLondonputonanewaspect。OutfirstdinnerwasatLordPalmerston’s，wherewemetwhatthenewspaperscalladistinguishedcircle。TheMarquisofLansdowne，LordandLadyJohnRussell，MarquisandMarchionessofClanricarde（Canning’sdaughter），EarlandCountessGrey，SirGeorgeandLadyGrey，etc。，etc。IwastakenoutbyLordPalmerston，withLordGreyontheotherside，andfoundthewholethingverylikeoneofourWashingtondinners，andIwasquiteasmuchatmyease，andtheyseemedmadeofthesamematerialsasourcabinetathome。IhavesincedinedatLordMorpeth’s，LordJohnRussell’s，LordMahon’s，Dr。Holland’s，BaronParke’s，ThePrussianMinister’s，andto—daywedinewiththeDuchessofInverness，thewidowoftheDukeofSussex；

to—morrowwithMr。Milman，aprebendofWestminsterandadistinguishedmanofletters。WehavebeenatagreatmanySOIREES，atLadyPalmerston’s，LadyGrey’s，LordAuckland’s，LadyLewis’s，etc。，etc。

Andnow，havinggivenyousomeideaWHOMweareseeinghere，youwillwishtoknowhowIlikethem，andhowtheydifferfromourownpeople。AtthesmallerdinnersandSOIREESatthisseasonIcannot，ofcourse，receiveafullimpressionofEnglishsociety，butcertainlythosepersonsnowintownarecharmingpeople。TheirmannersareperfectlysimpleandIentirelyforget，exceptwhentheirhistoricnamesfalluponmyear，thatIamwiththeproudaristocracyofEngland。AllthepersonswhosenamesIhavementionedtoyougiveoneadecidedimpressionnotonlyofabilityandagreeablemanners，butofexcellenceandthedomesticvirtues。

Thefurnitureandhouses，too，arelesssplendidandostentatious，thanthoseofourlargecities，though[they]havemoreplate，andliveriedservants。Theformsofsocietyandthestandardofdress，too，areverylikeours，exceptthataduchessoracountesshasmorehereditarypointlaceanddiamonds。Thegeneralstyleofdress，perhaps，isnotsotasteful，sosimplyelegantasours。UponthewholeIthinkmorehighlyofourowncountry（Imeanfromasocialpointofviewalone）thanbeforeIcameabroad。ThereislesssuperiorityoverusinmannersandallthesocialartsthanI

couldhavebelievedpossibleinacountrywherealargeandwealthyclasshavebeensetapartfromtimeimmemorialtocreate，asitwere，asocialstandardofhighrefinement。ThechiefdifferencethatIperceiveisthis：Inourcountrythepositionofeverybodyisundefinedandrestsaltogetheruponpublicopinion。Thisleadssometimestoalittleassumptionandpretensionofmanner，whichthehighestclasshere，whoseclaimsarealwaysallowedbyallaboutthem，arenevertemptedtoputon。Fromthisresultsanextremesimplicityofmanner，likethatofafamilycircleamongus。

WhatIhavesaid，however，applieslesstotheSouththantothelargecitiesoftheNorth，withwhichIammostfamiliarathome。I

hopeourmemorywillnotbecompletelyeffacedinWashington，forweclingtoourfriendstherewithstronginterest。PresentmyrespectfulregardstothePresident，andmylovetoMrs。WalkerandMissRucker。TotheMasonsalso，andouroldcolleaguesall，andpraylayyourroyalcommandsuponsomebodytowriteme。IlongtoknowwhatisgoingoninWashington。ThePleasantonspromisedtodoso，andAnniePayne，towhomandtoMrs。Madisongivealsomybestlove。Believemeyourswiththehighestregard。

E。D。BANCROFT。

LETTER：2DecemberYesterdaywedinedatthePrussianMinister’s，ChevalierBunsen’s。

HemetyourfatherinRometwentyyearssince，andhasreceiveduswithgreatenthusiasm。YesterdayatdinnerheactuallyroseinhisseatandmadequiteaspeechwelcominghimtoEnglandashistorian，oldfriend，etc。，andendedbyofferinghishealth，whichyourfatherrepliedtoshortly，inafewwords。ImaginesuchanoutbreakuponroutineatadinnerinEngland!NobodycouldhavedoneitbutoneofGermanblood，butIdaresaytheEveretts，whoknowhim，couldimagineitall。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，December19，1846

MydearSons：……YesterdaywedinedatMacready’sandmetquiteanew，andtous，amostagreeablecircle。TherewasCarlyle，whotalkedalldinner—timeinhisbroadScotch，inthemostinimitableway。Heisfullofwit，andhappenedtogetuponJamesI。，uponwhichtopichewassuperb。ThentherewasBabbage，thegreatmathematician，Fonblanc，theeditoroftheEXAMINER，etc。，etc。ThedaybeforewedinedatMr。FrederickElliott’swithasmallpartyofeight，ofwhichLadyMorganwasone，andalsoabrotherofLordNormanby’s，whomIlikedverymuch。LadyMorgan，whohadnothithertomuchpleasedme，cameoutinthissmallcirclewithallherIrishwitandhumor，andgavemequitenewnotionsofhertalent。

ShemademelaughtillIcried。OnSaturdaywedinedatSirRoderickMurchison’s，thePresidentoftheGeologicalSociety，verygreatinthescientificway。

WehavestruckupagreatfriendshipwithMissMurray，theQueen’sMaidofHonor，whopaidmeavisitofthreehoursto—day，inthemidstofwhichcameinColonelEstcourt，whomIwasdelightedtosee，asyoumaysuppose。MissMurrayistomeaveryinterestingperson，thoughagreattalker；aconvenientfaulttoastranger。

SheisconnectedwithhalfthenoblefamiliesinEngland，isthegrand—daughteroftheDuchessofAthol，whogovernedtheIsleofManasaqueen，andthedescendantofScott’sCountessofDerby。ThoughsprungofsuchToryblood，andamaidofhonor，shethinksfreelyuponallsubjects。Religion，politics，andpersons，shedecidesuponforherself，andhasasmanybenevolentschemesasoldMadamJackson。

IreturnedthevisitofMr。andMrs。Leslie，thepainter，thisweek，andsawthepictureheisnowpaintingfortheVice—Chancellor。Itisasketchofchildren，aboydrivinghistwolittlesistersashorses。OneofthelittlegirlsisverylikeSusie，hersize，hair，andcomplexion。HowIlongedtoberichenoughtoorderacopy，buthispicturescostafortune。IpaidalsoavisitthisweektotheDuchessofInverness，whomIfoundintheprettiest，cosiestmorningboudoirlookingontothegardensofthePalace。Inshort，Ido，orsee，everyhour，somethingthatifIwereatravelleronly，Icouldmakequiteastoryof。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，January1，1847

MydearSons：……Iwrotemylastsheetonthe19thandyourfatherwentonthatdaytoCambridgetobepresentatthetri—

centennialcelebrationofTrinityCollege……Hewentalsothedayaftertheanniversary，whichwasonour22ndDecember，toEly，withPeacock，thegreatmathematician，whoisDeanofEly，toseethegreatcathedralthere……WhilehewasatCambridgeIpassedtheeveningofthe22ndatLadyMorgan’s，whohappenedtohaveamostagreeableset……LadyMorgan’sreunionsareentertainingtomebecausetheyarecollectionsoflions，buttheyarenotstrictlyandexclusivelyfashionable。TheyremindmeintheircompositionfromvariouscirclesofMrs。Otis’spartiesinBoston。WehaveinthisrespectanadvantageovertheEnglishthemselves，asinourpositionweseeagreatvarietyofcliques。

Forinstance，lastevening，the31st，ItookLouisa，athalf—pastseven，tothehouseofMr。Hawes，anunderSecretaryofState，toseeabeautifulchildren’smasque。Itwasanimpersonationofthe\"OldYear\"dressedalittlelikeLEARwithsnowyhairanddraperies。

OLDYEARplayedhispartinimitably，attimeswithgreatpathos，andthenintroducingwittyhitsatallthedoingsofhisreign，suchasexplodingcotton，thenewplanet，asubjectwhichheputatrestas\"FARBEYONDOURREACH，\"etc。，etc。Hethenintroducedonebyonethechildrenofallagesas\"Days\"ofthecomingyear。TherewasTWELFTHDAY，crownedasQueenwithhercakeinherhands；therewasCHRISTMAS，coveredwithhollyandmistletoe；therewasAPRILFOOL’S

DAY，dressedasHarlequin；therewas，aboveall，SHROVETUESDAY，withherfrying—panofpancakes，dressedasalittlecook；therewasacharmingboyoffourteenorfifteen，asST。VALENTINE’SDAYwithhispacketofvalentinesaddressedtotheyoungladiespresent；

therewasthe5THOFNOVEMBER，fullofwitandfun，etc。；thelongestday，anelderbrother，ofWilliam’sheight，withacapofthreeorfourfeethigh；andhislittlesisteroffive，astheshortestday。Thiswasallarrangedtomusicandeachmadelittlespeeches，introducingthemselves。TheOLDYEAR，afterintroducinghissuccessors，andaftermuchpathos，is\"going，going——gone，\"andfallscoveredwithhisdrapery，uponremovingwhich，insteadofthelifelessbodyoftheOLDYEAR，isdiscoveredasweetlittleflower—

crownedgirloffiveorsix，astheNEWYEAR。Itwascharming，andIwassopleasedthat，insteadoftakingLouisaawayatnineo’clockasIintended，Ilefthertosee\"SirRogerdeCoverly，\"inthedressofhistime。

LastnightatMr。Putnam’s，ImetWilliamandMaryHowitt，andsomeofthelesserlights。Ihaveputdownmypentoansweranote，justbroughtin，todinenextThursdaywiththeDowagerCountessofCharleville，wherewewerelastweek，intheevening。Sheiseighty—four（tellthistoGrandmamma）andlikesstilltosurroundherselfwithBEAUXandBELLESESPRITS，andashersonanddaughterresidewithher，thisisstilleasy……TheoldladytalksFrenchasfastaspossible，andtroublesmesomewhatbytalkingittome，forgettingthataforeignminister’swifecantalkEnglish……

Yourfatherlikestobehere。HehascopyinggoingonintheStatePaperOfficeandBritishMuseum，andhisheartisfullofmanuscripts。Itisthefirstthought，Ibelieve，whoeverhesees，whatpapersareintheirfamily。Hemakesgreatinterestwitheventheladiessometimesforthispurpose。Uponthewhole，Ilovemyowncountrybetterthanever，butwhetherIshallnotmiss，uponmyreturn，somethingstowhichIamgraduallygettingaccustomed，I

haveyettolearn。Thegratificationofmixingconstantlywiththoseforemostintheworldforrank，science，literature，orallwhichadornssocietyisgreat，butthereisacertainyearningtowardthosewhosehabits，education，andmodesofthoughtarethesameasourown，whichInevercangetover。InthefulltideofconversationIoftenstopandthink，\"Imayunconsciouslybejarringtheprejudicesorpreconceivednotionsofthesepeopleuponathousandpoints；forhowdifferentlyhaveIbeentrainedfromthesewomenofhighrank，andmen，too，withwhomIamnowthrown。\"Uponalltopicsweareaccustomedtothink，perhaps，withmorelatitude，religion，politics，morals，everything。IliketheEnglishextremely，evenmorethanIexpected，andyethappyamItothinkthatourownbestportionsofsocietycanbearacomparisonwiththeirs。WhenIseeyouIcanexplaintoyouthedifferences，butI

thinkweneednotbeashamedofourselves。

LETTER：ToI。P。D。

LONDON，January2，1847

MydearUncle：……Ireferyoutomyletterstomyboys，forallthenewpersonsandplaceswemayhaveseenlately，whileIgiveyouforAunty’samusementaminuteaccountofmyvisitintothecountryatMr。Bates’s，wherethingsaremanagedinascrupulouslyEnglishmanner，sothatitwillgiveherthesameideaofcountrylifehere，asifitwereanobleman’scastle。OurinvitationwastoarriveonThursday，thedaybeforeChristmas，todine，andtoremainuntilthefollowingTuesdaymorning。HisplaceisatEastSHEEN，whichreceivesitsnamefromtheAnglo—SaxonwordforBEAUTY。ItadjoinsRichmondPark，beyondwhichisthecelebratedRichmondHill，Twickenham，Kew，etc。，etc……WearrivedatEastSheenathalf—

pastfive；butIoughtfirsttomentionthePREPARATIONSforacountryexcursion。Ourowncarriagehas，ofcourse，nodickeyformymaid，orconveniencesforluggage，sowetakeatravellingcarriage。Theimperials（whicharelarge，flatboxes，coveringthewholetopofthecarriage，CAPITALforvelvetdresses，andsmalleronesfittingintoalltheseatsINthecarriage，andBEFOREandBEHIND）arebroughttoyouthedaybefore。IammerelyaskedwhatdressesIwishtaken，andthatisallIknowofthematter，sothoroughlydoesanEnglishmaidunderstandherbusiness。Wewereshownonourarrivalintoacharmingroom，semi—library。

Inafewminutesaservantcametoshowmetomyapartment，whichwasverysuperb，withacomfortabledressing—roomandfireforMr。

Bancroft，wherethefaithfulKeatsunpackedhisdressingmaterials，whileIwasinafewmomentsseatedatthetoilettoundergomyhair—dressing，surroundedbyallmyapparatus，andablazingfiretowelcomemewithahissingtea—kettleofhotwaterandeverycomfort。

HowwelltheEnglishunderstandit，Ilearnmoreandmoreeveryday。

Mymaidhadalargeroomaboveme，alsowithafire；indeed，a\"lady’s\"maidisaVERYGREATcharacterINDEED，andwouldbemuchmoreunwillingtotakeherteawith，orspeakfamiliarlyto，afootmanorahousemaidthanIshould。MygreatestmistakesinEnglandhavebeencommittedtowardthosehighdignitaries，myownmaidandthebutler，whosegrandeurIentirelymisappreciatedandinvaded，asinmyignoranceIplacedthem，aswedo，onthesamelevelwithotherservants。Shehasherfiremadeforher，andLOAF

sugarinhertea，whichsheandCatessipinsolitarymajesty。

However，sheismostconscientiousandworthy，aswellasdignified，andthoroughlyaccomplishedinherbusiness。AsallthesethingsarepicturesofEnglishlife，ImentionthemtoamuseAunty，wholikestoknowhowthesemattersaremanaged。

AfterIamdressed，Ijointhecircleinthelibrary，whereIamintroducedtoMr。andMadamVandeWeyer，andLouisBuonaparte，thesonofLouis，theex—KingofHolland，andofHortense，Josephine’sdaughter。HewasalongtimeimprisonedinthefortressofHam，andhasnotlongbeenfree。TherewasalsoNapoleon，sonofJeromeBuonaparte，andthePrincessofWurtemberg。Theyweremostagreeable，intelligent，andamiableyoungmen，andIwasgladtomeetthem。LordandLadyLangdale（whohaveaplaceintheneighborhood）wereinvitedtodinewithus。HeisMasteroftheRollsandwaselevatedtothepeeragefromgreatdistinctionatthebar。LadyLangdaleisasensibleandexcellentperson。AtdinnerI

satbetweenMr。BatesandLordLangdale，whomIlikedverymuch。

Thenextmorningweassembledattenforbreakfast，whichwasataroundtable，withasortofcirculartray，whichturnsattheleasttouchinthecentre，leavingonlyarimroundthetableforplatesandcups。Thiswascoveredalsowithawhiteclothandonitwereplacedallthebreakfastviands，withbutter，sugar，cream，bread，toast—rackandpreserves。Youneednoservants，butturnitroundandhelpyourself。IbelievetheVandeWeyersintroducedit，fromavisitinWales。Teaandcoffeeareservedfromaside—tablealways，here。LetmetellAuntythatoursimplebreakfastDRESSisunknowninEngland。Youcomedowninthemorningdressedfortheday，untilsixorsevenintheevening，whenyourdressislowneckandshortsleevesfordinner。Atthisseasonthemorningdressisarichsilkorvelvet，highbodyquitecloseinthethroatwithhandsomecollarandcuffs，andALWAYSacap。MadamVandeWeyerworeeverydayadifferentdress，allveryrich，butIadheredtoablackwateredsilkwiththesamesimplecapIworeathome。

ItookadrivethroughRichmondPark（whereHenrytheEighthwatchedtoseeasignalontheTowerwhenAnneBoleyn’sheadfell，andgallopedofftomarryJaneSeymour）toRichmondTerrace，whichisravishinglybeautifulevenatthisseason……Thenextdaythegentlemanallwenttotown，andMadamVandeWeyerandIpassedthedayTETE—A—TETE，verypleasantly，asherexperienceindiplomaticlifeisveryusefultome……Hermannersareverypleasingandentirelyunaffected。Shehasgreattactandquicknessofperception，greatintelligenceandamiabilityandisaltogetherextremelywell—fittedfortheROLEsheplaysinlife。Herhusbandischarming……Theyhavethreechildren，verylovely。Theeldest，Victor，afineboyofsevenyearsold，Victoria，agirloffour，forwhomtheQueenwassponsor，andAlbert，towhomPrinceAlbertperformedthesameoffice。Thiswas，ofcourse，voluntaryintheroyalparties，asitwasnotafavortobeasked……MadamVandeWeyerisnotspoiled，certainly，bytheprominentpartshewascalledtoplayinthisgreatcentreoftheworldatsoearlyanage，andmakesanexcellentcourtier。Icouldnothelppityingher，however，forlookingforwardtogoingthrough，yearafteryear，thesameroundofceremonies，forms，andsociety。Forus，itisanewstudy，andinvaluableforashorttime；butIcouldnotbearitforlife，astheseEuropeandiplomatists。Besides，weAmericansreallyenjoyakindofsociety，andamuchnearerintercoursethanotherforeigners，intheliterary，scientific，andevensocialcircles。

OnSaturdayeveningLordWilliamFitzroyanddaughterjoinedourpartywithSirWilliamHookerandLadyHooker……SirWilliamHookerisoneofthemostinterestingpersonsIhaveseeninEngland。HeisagreatnaturalistandhasthechargeofthegreatBotanicalGardensatKew。Hedevotedamorningtousthere，anditwasthemostdelightfuloneIhavepassed。Therearetwenty—eightdifferentconservatoriesfilledwiththevegetablewondersofthewholeworld。LengthoftimeandregalwealthhaveconspiredtomaketheKewgardensbeyondourconceptionsentirely……SirWilliampointedouttousallthatwasveryrareorcurious，whichaddedmuchtomypleasure……HeshowedusadrawingofthelargestFLOWEReverknownonearth，whichSirStamfordRafflesdiscoveredinSumatra。Itwasaparasitewithoutleavesorstem，andtheflowerweighedfifteenpounds。LadyRafflesfurnishedhimthematerialsforthedrawing。Idinedincompanywithhernotlongago，andregretnowthatIdidnotmakehertellmeaboutthewondersofthatregion。Atthesamedinneryoumaymeetsomanypeople，eachhavingtheirpeculiargift，thatonecannotavailoneselfoftheopportunityofextractingfromeachwhatisprecious。IalwayswishIcouldsitbyeverybodyatthesametime，andIcouldoftenemployadozenheads，ifIhadthem，insteadofmypoor，miserableone。

FromSirWilliamHookerIlearnedasmuchabouttheVEGETABLEworld，asMr。BancroftdidfromtheDeanofElyonARCHITECTURE，whenheexpoundedtohimthecathedralofEly；pointingoutthesuccessivestylesoftheGothic，andthedifferentperiodsinwhichthedifferentpartswerebuilt。Booksaredullteacherscomparedwiththesegiftedmengivingyoualectureuponsubjectsbeforeyoureyes。

OnSundaywedinedwithoutownparty；onMondaysomediplomaticpeople，theLisboasandoneofMr。Bates’spartners，andonTuesdaywecamehome。ImustnotomitavisitwhileweweretherefromMr。

Taylor（VanArtevelde），whoisson—in—lawofLordMonteagle，andlivesintheneighborhood。Hehasafinecountenanceandstillfinervoice，andisaltogetheroneofthoseliterarypersonswhodonotdisappointyou，butwhosewholebeingisequaltotheirworks。

Ihopetoseemoreofhim，astheyspokeof\"CULTIVATING\"us，andMr。TaylorwasquiteaPROTEGEofourkindanddearfriend，Dr。

Holland，anddedicatedhislastpoemtohim。Thisexpression，\"I

shallCULTIVATEyou，\"wehearconstantly，anditstrikesmeasoddlyasourWestern\"BEINGRAISED。\"Indeed，IhearimproperAnglicismsconstantly，andtheyhavenearlyasmanyaswehave。Theupperclasses，here，however，doSPEAKEnglishsoroundlyandfully，givingeveryLETTERitsdue，thatitpleasesmyearamazingly。

OnWednesdayIgoforthefirsttimetoWestminsterAbbey，onEpiphany，toheartheAthanasianCreedchanted。Ihaveasyethadnotimeforsight—seeing，asthedaysaresoshortthatnecessaryvisitstakeallmytime。Noonegoesoutinacarriagetillaftertwo，astheservantsdineatone，andinthemorningearlythefootmanisemployedinthehouse。Acoachmanneverleaveshisboxhere，andafootmanisindispensableonalloccasions。Novisitcanbepaidtillthree；andthisgivesmeverylittletimeintheseshortdays。EverythinghereisinflexibleasthelawsoftheMedesandPersians，andthoughIamcalled\"Mistress\"evenbyoldCateswithhisgreyhairandblackcoat，Icannotmakeoneofthemdoanything，exceptBYthepersonandATthetimewhichEnglishcustomprescribes。Theyarebroughtuptofillcertainsituations，andfillthemperfectly，butcannotorwillnotvary。

IamfrequentlyaskedbytheladieshereifIhaveformedahouseholdtopleasemeandIamobligedtoconfessthatIhaveaverynicehousehold，butthatIamtheonlyrefractorymemberofit。

Iamalwaysaskingthewrongpersonforcoals，etc。，etc。Thedivisionoflabor，orratherceremonies，betweenthebutlerandfootman，IhavenowmasteredIbelieveinsomedegree，butthatbetweentheUPPERandUNDERhouse—maidisstillaprofoundmysterytome，thoughtheupperhasexplainedtomeforthetwentiethtimethatshedidonly\"thetopofthework。\"Mycookcomesuptomeeverymorningfororders，andalwaysdropsthedeepestcurtsey，butthenIdoubtifherhandsareeverprofanedbytouchingapoker，andsheNEVERwashesadish。SheiscookandHOUSEKEEPER，andpresidesoverthehousekeeper’sroom；whichhasaBrusselscarpetandcentretable，withonesideentirelyoccupiedbythelinenpresses，ofwhichmymaid（myvice—regent，onlyMUCHgreaterthanme）keepsthekeyanddispenseseverytowel，evenforthekitchen。Shekeepslistsofeverythingandwouldfeelboundtoreplaceanythingmissing。IshallmakeyoulaughandMrs。Goodwinstare，bysomeofmyhousekeepingstories，thenexteveningIpassinyourlittlepleasantparlor（awordunknownhere）。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，January10，1847

MyverydearChildren：……YesterdaywedinedatLadyCharleville’s，theoldladyofeighty—four，atwhosehouseI

mentionedaneveningvisitinmylast，andImusttellyouallaboutittoentertaindearGrandma。Iwillbeminuteforonce，andgiveyoutheLITTLEdetailsofaLondondinner，andtheyareallpreciselyalike。WearrivedatCavendishSquareaquarterbeforeseven（veryearly）andwereshownintoasemi—libraryonthesamefloorwiththedining—room。Theservantstakeyourcloak，etc。，inthepassage，andIamnevershownintoaroomwithamirroraswithus，andneverintoachamberorbedroom。

WefoundLadyCharlevilleandherdaughterwithoneyounggentlemanwithwhomIchattedtilldinner，andwho，Ifound，wasSirWilliamBurdette，sonofSirFrancisandbrotherofMissAngelinaCoutts。I

happenedtohaveonthecorsageofmyblackvelvetawhitemossroseandbuds，whichIthoughtratheryouthfulforME，buttheoldladyhad[them]onhercap。Sheisfullofintelligence，andhasalwaysbeeninthehabitofdrawingagreatdeal……VerysooncameinLordAylmer，[who]wasformerlyGovernorofCanada，andLadyColchester，daughterofLordEllenborough，averyprettywomanofthirty—five，Ishouldthink；SirWilliamandLadyChattertonandMr。

AlgernonGreville，whosegrandmotherwrotethebeautiful\"PrayerforIndifference，\"anoldfavoriteofmine，andMr。MacGregor，thepoliticaleconomist。LordAylmertookmeoutandIfoundhimaniceoldpeer，anddiscoveredthateversincethedeathofhisuncle，LordWhitworth，whosetitleisextinct，hehadbornethearmsofbothAylmerandWhitworth。Mr。BancrofttookoutLadyColchester，andtheoldladywaswheeledoutpreciselyasGrandmais。

Attableshehelpedtothefish（cod，garnishedroundwithsmelts）

andinsistedoncarvingtheturkeyherself，whichshedidextremelywell。Bytheway，IobservetheynevercarvethebreastofaturkeyLONGITUDINALLY，aswedo，butinshortslices，alittlediagonallyfromthecentre。Thismakesmanymoreslices，andquitelargeenoughwheretherearesomanyotherdishes。ThefourENTREEdishesarealwaysplacedonthetablewhenwesitdown，accordingtoouroldfashion，andnotonebyone。Theyhave[them]warmedwithhotwater，sothattheykeephotwhilethesoupandfishareeaten。

Turkey，evenBOILEDturkey，isbroughtonAFTERtheENTREES，mutton（asaddlealways）orvenison，withapheasantorpartridges。WiththeroastisalwaysputontheSWEETS，astheyarecalled，asthetermdessertseemsrestrictedtothelastcourseoffruits。Duringthedinnertherearealwayslongstripsofdamaskallroundthetablewhichareremovedbeforethedessertisputon，andthereisnobrushingofcrumbs。Youmaynotcareforallthis，butthehousekeepersmay。IhadMr。Grevilletheothersideofme，whoseemedmuchsurprisedthatI，anAmerican，shouldknowthe\"PrayerforIndifference，\"whichhedoubtediftwentypersonsinEnglandreadinthesemoderndays。

ItisagreatmysterytomeyethowpeoplegettoknoweachotherinLondon。Personstalktoyouwhomyoudonotknow，fornooneisintroduced，asageneralrule。Ihavesometimesquiteanacquaintancewithaperson，andexchangevisits，andyetdonotsucceedforalongtimeinputtingtheirnameandthepersontogether……Itisagreatpuzzletoastranger，buthasitsconveniencesfortheEnglishthemselves。WeareendeavoringtobecomeacquaintedwiththeEnglishmind，notonlythroughsociety，butthroughitsproductsinotherways。Naturalscienceisthedepartmentintowhichtheyseemtohavethrowntheirintellectmosteffectivelyforthelasttenorfifteenyears。WearereadingWhewell’s\"HistoryoftheInductiveSciences，\"whichgivesoneasummaryofwhathasbeenaccomplishedinthatway，notonlyinpastages，butinthepresent。EverymomenthereisprecioustomeandI

amanxioustomakethebestuseofit，butIhaveimmensedemandsonmytimeineveryway。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

Tuesdaynight，January19，1847

To—daywehavebeenpresentattheopeningofParliament，buthowcanIpicturetoyoutheinterestandmagnificenceofthescene。I

willbeginquiteback，andgiveyouallthepreparationsfora\"CourtDay。\"Tendaysbefore，anotewaswrittentoLordWilloughbyd’Eresby，informinghimofmyintentiontoattend，thataseatmightbereservedforme，andalsosolicitingseveralticketsforAmericanladiesandgentlemen……Icannottakethemwithme，however，astheseatassignedtotheladiesofForeignMinistersisverynearthethrone。ThismorningwhenIawokethefogwasthickerthanI

everknewit，evenhere。Theairwasonedenseorange—coloredmass。

WhatapitytheEnglishcannotborrowourbrightblueskiesinwhichtoexhibittheirroyalpageants!

Mr。Bancroft’scourtdresshadnotbeensenthome，ourservants’

liverieshadnotmadetheirappearance，andourcarriageonlyarrivedlastnight，andIhadnotpassedjudgmentuponit。Fogsandtradesmen!thesearethetormentsofLondon。Verysooncamethetailorwithembroidereddress，sword，andchapeau，but，alas!Mr。

Isidore，whowastohavedressedmyhairathalf—pasttenwasnotforthcoming，andtocompletemyperplexity，hehadmyhead—dressinhispossession。Atlast，justasRussellhadresumedherofficeatthetoilet，cameIsidore，alittlebeforetwelve，coiffureandall，whichwassoprettythatIquireforgavehimallhissins。ItwasofgreenleavesandwhiteFLEUR—DE—LIS，withawhiteostrichfeatherdroopingononeside。Iwearmyhairnowplaininfront，andthewreathwasveryflatandclassicalinitsstyle。Mydresswasblackvelvetwithaveryrichbertha。AbouquetonthefrontofFLEUR—DE—

LIS，likethecoiffure，andaCashmereshawl，completedmyarray。I

havehadthediamondpinandearringswhichyoufathergaveme，reset，andmadeintoamagnificentbrooch，andsoarrangedthatI

canalsowearitasanecklaceorbracelet。Onthisoccasionitwasmynecklace。

MissMurraycametogowithme，asshewishedtobebymysidetopointouteverybody，andherbadgeasMaidofHonorwouldtakehertoanypartofthehouse。Athalf—pasttwelvesheandIsetout，andafterleavingusthecarriagereturnedforyourfatherandMr。

Brodhead。Butfirstletmetellyousomethingofourequipage。ItisaCHARIOT，notacoach；thatis，ithasbutoneseat，butthewholefrontbeingglassmakesitmuchmoreagreeabletosuchpersonsashavenotlargefamilies。Thecolorismaroon，withasilvermoulding，andhastheAmericanarmsonthepanel。Theliveriesareblueandred；onCourtDaystheyhaveblueplushbreeches，andwhitesilkstockings，withbucklesontheirshoes。Yourfatherleavesallthesematterstome，andtheyhavegivenmenolittleplague。WhenIthoughtIhadarrangedeverythingnecessary，thecoachman，goodoldBrooks，solicitedanaudienceadayortwoago，andbegan，\"Mistress，didyoutellthemtosendthepadsandthefrontsandthehand—pieces？\"\"Heavensandearth!whatareallthesethings？\"saidI。\"Why，ma’am，wealwayshaspadsunderthesaddleonCourtDays，trimmedroundwiththecolorsofthelivery，andwehasfrontsmadeofribbinforthehorses’heads，andwehaswhitehand—piecesforthereins。\"Thisisaspecimenofthelittletroublesofcourtlife，butithasitscompensations。TogobacktoMissMurrayandmyself，whoaredrivingthroughtheparkbetweenfilesofpeople，thousandsandthousandsallawaitingwithpatient，loyalfacesthepassageoftheQueenandoftheStatecarriages。TheQueen’swasdrawnbyeightcream—coloredhorses，andtheservantsflamingwithscarletandgold。Thispartofthepark，nearthepalace，isonlyaccessibletothecarriagesoftheforeignministers，ministers，andofficersofthehousehold。

WearriveattheParliamentHouse，movethroughthelongcorridorandgiveupourticketsatthedoorofthechamber。Itisaverylong，narrowroom。Attheupperendisthethrone，ontherightistheseatoftheambassadors，ontheleft，oftheirladies。Justinfrontofthethroneisthewool—sackoftheLordChancellor，lookinglikeadrawing—roomdivan，coveredwithcrimsonvelvet。Belowthisarerowsofseatsforthejudges，whoareallintheirwigsandscarletrobes；thebishopsandthepeers，allinrobesofscarletandermine。OppositethethroneatthelowerendistheBaroftheCommons。OntherightoftheQueen’schairisavacantone，onwhichiscarvedthethreeplumes，theinsigniaofthePrinceofWales，whowilloccupyitwhenheissevenornineyearsold；ontheleftPrinceAlbertsits。

Theseatassignedmewasinthefrontrow，andquiteopen，likeasofa，sothatIcouldtalkwithanygentlemanwhomIknew。MadamVandeWeyerwasononesideofmeandthePrincessCallimachiontheother，andMissMurrayjustbehindme。Sheinsistedonintroducingtomeallhernoblerelatives。Hercousin，theyoungDukeofAthol；theDukeofBuccleuch；hernephewtheMarquisofCamden；herbrothertheBishopofRochester。ThereweremanywhomI

hadseenbefore，sothatthehourpassedveryagreeably。VerysooncameintheDukeofCambridge，atwhicheverybodyrose，hebeingaroyalduke。Hewasdressedinthescarletkinglyrobe，trimmedwithermine，andwithhiswhitehairandwhiskers（heisanoldman）wasmostpicturesqueandscenic，remindingmeofKingLearandotherstagekings。Herequestedtobeintroducedtome，uponwhichI

rose，ofcourse。Hesoonsaid，\"Beseated，\"andwewentonwiththeconversation。ItoldhimhowmuchIlikedKewGarden，wherehehasafavoriteplace。

WhenIfirstenteredIwasgreetedverycordiallybyapersonageinablackgownandwig，whomIdidnotknow。Helaughedandsaid：\"I

amMr。Senior，whomyousawonlySaturdayevening，butyoudonotknowmeinmywig。\"Itis，indeed，anentiretransformation，foritreachesdownontheshoulders。Heisamasterinchancery。Hestoodbymenearlyallthetimeandpointedoutmanyofthejudges，andsomepersonsnotinMissMurray’sline。

Butthetrumpetssound!theQueenapproaches!Thetrumpetcontinues，andfirstenteratasidedoorcloseatmyelbowthecollegeofheraldsrichlydressed，slowly，twoandtwo；thenthegreatofficersofthehousehold，thentheLordChancellorbearingthepurse，seal，andspeechoftheQueen，withthemacebearersbeforehim。ThenLordLansdownewiththecrown，theEarlofZetland，withthecapofmaintenance，andtheDukeoffWellington，withtheswordofState。ThenPrinceAlbert，leadingtheQueen，followedbytheDuchessofSutherland，MistressoftheRobes，andtheMarchionessofDouro，daughter—in—lawoftheDukeofWellington，whoisoneoftheladiesinwaiting。TheQueenandPrincesitdown，whileeverybodyelseremainsstanding。TheQueenthensaysinavoicemostclearandsweet：\"Mylords（rollingther），beseated。\"

Uponwhichthepeerssitdown，exceptthosewhoenterwiththeQueen，whogroupthemselvesaboutthethroneinthemostpicturesquemanner。TheQueenhadacrownofdiamonds，withsplendidnecklaceandstomacherofthesame。TheDuchessofSutherlandclosebyhersidewithherducalcoronetofdiamonds，andalittleback，LadyDouro，also，withhercoronet。OntherightofthethronestoodtheLordChancellor，withscarletrobeandflowingwig，holdingthespeech，surroundedbytheemblemsofhisoffice；alittlefarther，onesteplowerdown，LordLansdowne，holdingthecrownonacrimsonvelvetcushion，andonthelefttheDukeofWellington，brandishingtheswordofStateintheair，withtheEarlofZetlandbyhisside。

TheQueen’strainofroyalpurple，orratherdeepcrimson，wasbornebymanytrain—bearers。Thewholesceneseemedtomelikeadreamoravision。AfterafewminutestheLordChancellorcameforwardandpresentedthespeechtotheQueen。Shereaditsittingandmostexquisitely。Hervoiceisflute—likeandherwholeemphasisdecidedandintelligent。VerysoonafterthespeechisfinishedsheleavestheHouse，andweallfollow，assoonaswecangetourcarriages。

LordLansdownetoldmebeforeshecameinthatthespeechwouldbelongerthanusual，\"butnotsolongasyourPresident’sspeeches。\"

Ithasbeenadayofhighpleasureandmorelikearomancethanarealitytome，andbeingintheverymidstofitasIwas，madeitmorestrikingthanifIhadlookedonfromadistantgallery。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。