第2章

LONDON，February7，1847

MydearSons：……OnFridaywedinedwithtwobachelors，Mr。

PeabodyandMr。Coates，whoareAmericanbankers。Mr。PeabodyisafriendofMr。CorcoranandwasformerlyapartnerofMr。RiggsinBaltimore。Mr。CoatesisofBoston……TheymusteredupalltheAmericansthatcouldbefound，andwedinedwithtwenty—sixofourcountrymen。

MondayMorningLasteveningwewereathometoseeanyAmericanswhomightchancetocome……Imaketeainthedrawing—room，onalittletablewithawhitecloth，whichwouldnotbeesteemedCOMMEILFAUTwithus。Thereisnoneoftheparadeofeatinginthelargesteveningpartyhere。Iseenothingbuttea，andsometimesfindaninformalrefreshmenttableintheroomwhereweputonourcloaks。

IgotanoteyesterdayfromtheO’ConnorDon，enclosinganordertoadmitmetotheHouseofCommonsonMonday……Youwillbecurioustoknowwhois\"TheO’ConnorDon。\"HeisDennisO’Connor，Esq。，butisoftheoldestfamilyinIreland，andtherepresentativeofthelastkingsofConnaught。HeiscalledaltogethertheO’ConnorDon，andbeginshisnotetomewiththattitle。YourememberCampbell’spoemof\"O’Connor’sChild\"？

Sunday，14thFebruary……YesterdaymorningwasmybreakfastatSirRobertInglis’s。

Thehourwashalfpastnine，andashishouseistwomilesoffIhadtobeupwondrousearlyforme。Theweatherhasbeenverycoldforthisclimateforthelastfewdays，thoughweshouldthinkitmoderate。Theyknownothingofextremecoldhere。But，toreturntoorbreakfast，where，notwithstandingthecold，theguestswerepunctuallyassembled：TheMarquisofNorthamptonandhissisters，theBishopofLondonwithhisblackapron，SirStratfordCanning，Mr。Rutherford，LordAdvocateforScotland，theSolicitor—Generalandoneortwoothers。TheconversationwasveryagreeableandI

enjoyedmyfirstspecimenofanEnglishbreakfastexceedingly……

Ourinvitationsjostleeachother，nowParliamenthasbegun，foreverybodyinvitesonWednesday，Saturday，orSunday，whentherearenodebates。WehadthreedinnerinvitationsfornextWednesday，fromMr。Harcourt，MarquisofAnglesey，andMrs。Mansfield。Wegototheformer。TheQueenheldaleveeonFriday，forgentlemenonly。Yourfatherwent，ofcourse。

Sunday，February21stIleftoffonSunday，onwhichdayIgotanotefromLadyMorgan，sayingthatshewishedustocomeandmeetsomeagreeablesatherhouse……ThereImetSirWilliamandLadyMolesworth，SirBenjaminHall，etc。，andhadalongtalkwith\"Eothen，\"whoisaquiet，unobtrusivepersoninmanner，thoughhisbookisquiteaneffervescence……OnWednesdaywedinedwithMr。Harcourt，andmetthereLordBrougham，whodidthetalkingchiefly，LordandLadyMahon，Mr。Labouchere，etc。Itwasamostagreeableparty，andwewereverygladtomeetLordBrougham，whomwehadnotbeforeseen。

LordBroughamisentertaining，andverymuchlistenedto。Indeed，theEnglishhabitseemstobetosufferafewpeopletodoupagreatpartofthetalking，suchasMacaulay，Brougham，andSydneySmithandMackintoshintheirday……OnSaturdayevening，atteno’clock，wewenttoalittlepartyatLadyStratheden’s。Afterstayingtherethree—quartersofanhourwewenttoLadyPalmerston’s，wherewerealltheGREATLondonworld，theDuchessofSutherlandamongthenumber。Sheismostnoble，andatthesametimelovely……WehadanautographnotefromSirRobertPeel，invitingustodinenextSaturday，andwereengaged。Ihopetheywillaskusagain，forIknowfewthingsbetterthantoseehim，asweshouldindiningthere。IhavethesameinterestinseeingthereallydistinguishedmenofEngland，thatIshouldhaveinthepicturesandstatuesofRome，andindeed，muchgreater。IwishI

wasbetterpreparedformylifeherebyamoreextensiveculture；

merefineladyismwillnotdo，orprosybluism，butoneneedsforathoroughenjoymentofsociety，ahealthy，practical，andextensiveculture，andauseofthemodernlanguagesinourpositionwouldbeconvenient。Idonotknowhowagentlemancangetonwithoutithere，andIfinditsodesirablethatIdevoteagooddealoftimetospeakingFrenchwithLouisa’sgoverness。YourfatherusesFrenchagreatdealwithhiscolleagues，who，manyofthem，speakEnglishwithgreatdifficulty，andsomenotatall……LadyCharlotteLindsaycameonedaythisweektoengageustodinewithheronWednesday，butyesterdayshecametosaythatshewantedLordBroughamtomeetus，andhecouldnotcometillFriday。Fortunatelywehadnodinnerengagementonthatday，andwearetomeetalsotheMissBerrys；HoraceWalpole’sMissBerrys，whowithLadyCharlotteherself，arethelastremnantsoftheoldschoolhere。

LETTER：ToI。P。D。

February21stMydearUncle：……Iwrote[J。D。]aweekortwobeforeIheardofhisdeath，butwasunabletotellhimanythingofLordNorth，asI

hadnotmetLadyCharlotteLindsay。IhaveseenhertwicethisweekatBaronParke’sandatLordCampbell’s，andtoldherhowmuchIhadwishedtodosobefore，andonwhataccount。Shesaysherfatherheardreadingwithgreatpleasure，andthatoneofhersisterscouldreadtheclassics：Latinand，Ithink，Greek，whichheenjoyedtothelast。Shesaysthathenevercomplainedoflosinghissight，butthathermotherhastoldherthatitworriedhiminhisoldagethatheremainedMinisterduringourtroublesataperiodwhenhewished，himself，toresign。Hesometimestalkedofitinthesolitudeofsleeplessnights，hermotherhastoldher。

OnTuesdaymorningwewereinvitedbyDr。Buckland，theDeanofWestminster，togotohishouse，andfromthencetotheAbbey，towitnessthefuneraloftheDukeofNorthumberland。TheDean，whohascontrolofeverythingintheAbbey，issuedticketstoseveralhundredpersonstogoandwitnessthefuneral，butonlyLordNorthampton’sfamily，theBunsens（thePrussianMinister），andourselves，wenttohishouse，andintotheDean’slittlegallery。

AftertheceremonytherewereacrowdofvisitorsattheDean’s，andImetmanyoldacquaintances，andmademanynewones，amongwhomwereLadyChantrey，aniceperson。Afterthecrowdclearedoff，wesatdowntoalongtableatlunch，alwaysanimportantmealhere，andafterwardtheDeantookmeonhisarmandshowedmeeverythingwithintheAbbeyprecincts。HetookusfirsttothePercyChapeltoseethevaultofthePercys……FromthencetheDeantookustotheJerusalemchamberwhereHenryIVdied，thenallovertheWestminsterschool。Wefirstwenttothehallwheretheyoungmenwereeatingtheirdinner……Wethenwenttotheschool—room，whereeveryinchofthewallandbenchesiscoveredwithnames，someofthemmostillustrious，asDryden’s。Thereweretwobunchesofrods，whichtheDeanassuredmewerenotmeresymbolsofpower，butweredailyused，as，indeed，thebrokentwigsscattereduponthefloorplainlyshowed。Ourferulesarethoughtratherbarbarous，butagentletouchfromaslendertwignotatallso。Theseyoungmenlookedtomeasoldasourcollegians。Wethenwenttotheirstudy—

rooms，play—rooms，andsleeping—rooms。Thewholefortysleepinonelongandwell—ventilatedroom，thewallsofwhichwerealsocoveredwithnames。Atthefootofeachbedwasalargechestcoveredwithleather，asmoulderingandtime—wornastheAbbeyitself。Hereareeducatedthesonsofsomeofthenoblestfamilies，andtheArchbishopofYorkhashadsixsonshere，andallofthemwereinsuccessiontheCaptainoftheschool……

OnWednesdayeveningwewentfirsttoourfriends，theBunsens，wherewewereinvitedtomeettheDuchessofSutherlandwithafewotherpersons。Bunsenisverypopularhere。Heislearnedandaccomplished，andwassomuchpraisedintheBiographyofDr。

Arnold，thelatehistorianofRome，thathehasgreatreputationintheworldofletters……AlthoughwehavegreatpleasureinthesocietyofChevalierandMadamBunsen，andinthosewhomwemeetattheirhouse。Onthisoccasionweonlystayedhalfanhour，whichI

passedintalkingwiththeBishopofNorwichandhiswife，Mrs。

Stanley，andwenttoLadyMorgan’swithoutwaitingtilltheDuchessofSutherlandcame。Therewefoundherlittleroomsfullofagreeablepeople……Thenextday，Thursday，therewasagrandoperaforthebenefitoftheIrish，andalltheDiplomaticCorpswereobligedtotakeboxes。LadyPalmerston，whowasoneofthethreepatronesses，securedaverygoodboxforus，directlyoppositetheQueen，andonlythreefromthestage。

WetookwithusMrs。MilmanandW。T。Davis，towhomitgaveagrandopportunityofseeingtheQueenandtheassembledaristocracy，atleastallwhoarenowinLondon。\"GodsavetheQueen，\"sungwiththewholeaudiencestanding，wasanoblesight。TheQueenalsostood，andattheendgavethreecurtsies。OnFridayCaptainandMrs。Wormeley，withMissWormeley，dinedwithus，withMr。andMrs。

Carlyle，MissMurray，theMaidofHonor，Mr。andMrs。PellofNewYork，withWilliamT。andMr。Brodhead。WilliamwasverygladtoseeCarlyle，whoshowedhimselfofftoperfection，utteringhisparadoxesinbroadScotch。

LasteveningwedinedatMr。ThomasBaring’s，andamostagreeabledinneritwas。Thecompanyconsistedoftwelvepersons，LordandLadyAshburton，etc。IlikeLadyAshburtonextremely。Sheisfullofintelligence，readseverything，talksmostagreeably，andstilllovesAmerica。Sheisbynomeansoneofthosewhoabjuretheircountry。IhaveseenfewpersonsinEnglandwhomIshouldesteemamoredelightfulfriendorcompanionthanLadyAshburton，andIdonotknowwhy，butIhadreceivedadifferentimpressionofher。

LordAshburton，bywhomIsatatdinner，struckmeasstilloneofthewisestmenIhaveseeninEngland。LadyAshburton，whowassittingbyMr。Bancroft，leantforwardandsaidtoherhusband，\"WE

canbringbushelsofcornthisyeartoEngland。\"\"WhodoyoumeanbyWE？\"saidhe。\"Why，weAmericans，tobesure。\"

MondayEveningYesterdaywedinedatCountSt。Aulair’s，theFrenchAmbassador，whoisacharmingoldmanoftheoldFrenchschool，atasortofamicabledinnergiventoLordandLadyPalmerston。LordJohnRussellwasoftheparty，withtheRussianAmbassadorandlady，Mr。

andMadamVandeWeyer，thePrussianandTurkishMinisters。ThehouseoftheFrenchEmbassyisfine，buttheseformalgranddinnersarenotsocharmingasthesmallones。ThepresentstateoffeelingbetweenLordPalmerstonandtheFrenchGovernmentgaveitakindofinterest，however，anditcertainlywentoffinamuchbetterspiritthanLadyNormanby’sfamousparty，whichGuizotwouldnotattend。

ItseemsveryoddtometobeinthemidstoftheseEuropeanaffairs，whichIhaveallmylifelookeduponfromsogreatadistance。

LETTER：ToMrs。W。W。StoryLONDON，March23，1847

MydearMrs。Story：Ishouldhavethankedyoubythelaststeamerforyournoteandthecharmingvolumewhichaccompaniedit，butmythoughtsandfeelingsweresomuchoccupiedbythesadtidingsI

heardfrommyownfamilythatIwrotetonooneoutofit。Thepoems，whichwouldatalltimeshavegivenmegreatpleasure，gavemestillmoreherethantheywouldifIwerewithyouontheothersideoftheAtlantic。IamnotcosmopolitanenoughtoloveanynaturesowellasourAmericannature，andinadditiontothecharmofitspoetry，everypiecebroughtuptomethescenesamidstwhichithadbeenwritten……Howdeartheseassociationsareyourhusbandwillsoonknowwhenhetooisseparatedfromhisnativeshoresandfromthoseheloves……Ishalllookforwardwithgreatpleasuretoseeinghimhere，andonlywishyouweretoaccompanyhim，foryourownsake，forhis，andforours。HisvariousculturewillenablehimtoenjoymostfullyallthatEuropecanyieldhimineverydepartment。MyownregreteversinceIhavebeenherehasbeenthattheseedhasnot\"fallenuponbetterground，\"forthoughIthoughtmyselfnotignorantwholly，I

certainlylosemuchthatImightenjoymorekeenlyifIwerebetterpreparedforit。IenvythepleasurewhichMr。Storywillreceivefrommusic，painting，andsculptureinEurope，evenifheweredestituteofthecreativeinspirationwhichhewilltakewithhim。

Forourselves，wehaveeverythingtomakeushappyhere，andI

shouldbequiteso，ifIcouldforgetthatIhadacountryandchildrenwithverydearfriends3，000milesaway……Therearecertainsympathiesofcountrywhichonecannotovercome。OntheotherhandIcertainlyenjoypleasuresofthehighestkind，andameverydayfloatedlikeoneinadreamintothemidstofpersonsandscenesthatmakemylifeseemmorelikeadramathanareality。

Nothingismoreunrealthantheactualpresenceofpersonsofwhomonehasheardmuch，andlongwishedtosee。OnedayIfindmyselfatdinnerbythesideofSirRobertPeel，anotherbyLordJohnRussell，oratLordLansdowne’stable，withMrs。Norton，oratacharmingbreakfastwithMr。Rogers，surroundedbypicturesandmarbles，orwithtallfeathersandalongtrain，makingcurtsiestoaqueen。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，April2[1847]

HereitisthedaybeforethedespatchesleaveandIhavenotwrittenasinglelinetoyou……OnFridaywedinedatLadyCharlotteLindsay’s，wherewereLordBroughamandLadyMallet，Mr。

RogersandtheBishopofNorwichandhiswife。IntheeveningMissAgnesBerry，whonevergoesoutnow，cameonpurposetoappointaneveningtogoandseehersister，whoistheonethatHoraceWalpolewishedtomarry，andtowhomsomanyofhislaterlettersareaddressed。Sheiseighty—four，hersisterafewyearsyounger，andLadyCharlottenotmuchtheirjunior。

TheseremnantsoftheBELLES—ESPRITSofthelastagearecharmingtome。Theyhaveavastandlongexperienceofthebestsocialcircles，withnativewit，andconstantpracticeintheconversationofsociety……OnWednesday，wedinedatSirRobertPeel’s，withwhomIwasmorecharmedthanwithanybodyIhaveseenyet。IsatbetweenhimandtheSpeakeroftheHouseofCommons。Iwastoldthathewasstiffandstatelyinhismanners，butdidnotthinkhimso，andaminclinedtoimaginethatfreefromtheburdenofthePremiership，heunbendsmore。Hetalkedconstantlywithme，andinspeakingofacertainpicturesaid，\"WhenyoucometoDraytonManorIshallshowittoyou。\"Ishouldliketogothere，buttoseehimselfevenmorethanhispictures。LadyPeelisstillaveryhandsomewoman。

ThenextmorningwebreakfastedwithMr。Rogers。Helives，asyouprobablyknow，in[a]beautifulhouse，thoughsmall，whoseroomslookupontheGreenPark，andfilledwithpicturesandmarbles。Westayedanhourormoreaftertheotherguests，listeningtohisstoresofliteraryanecdoteandpleasanttalk。IntheeveningwewenttotheMissBerrys’，wherewefoundLordMorpeth，whoismuchattachedtothem。MissBerryputherhandonhishead，whichisgettingalittlegray，andsaid：\"Ah，George，andIrememberthedayyouwereborn，yourgrandmotherbroughtyouandputyouinmyarms。\"NowthisgrandmotherofLordMorpeth’swasthecelebratedDuchessofDevonshire，whoelectioneeredforFox，andheledhertotellmeallabouther。\"Eothen\"wasalsothere，LadyLewisandmanyofmyfriends……Auntywishestoknowwhois\"Eothen。\"Shehasprobablyreadhisbook，\"Eothen，orTracesofTravel，\"whichwasverypopulartwoorthreeyearssince。Heisayounglawyer，Mr。

Kinglake，themostmodest，unassumingpersoninhismanners，veryshyandaltogetherveryunlikethedashing，spiritedyoungEnglishmanIfiguredtomyself，whomnothingcoulddauntfromtheArabeventotheplague，whichhedefied。

LETTER：ToI。P。D。

DearUncleandAunt：OnThursday[the25th]wewereinvitedtoSirJohnPakington’s，whosewifeistheBishopofRochester’sdaughter，butwereengagedtoMr。Senior，whohadaskedustomeettheArchbishopofDublin，thecelebratedDr。Whately。HehadcomeoverfromIrelandtomakeaspeechintheHouseofLordsupontheIrishPoorLaw。Heisfulloflearning[and]simplicity，andwithmostgenialheartymanners。RogerswasalsothereandsaidmorefinethingsthanIhaveheardhimsaybeforeatdinner，asheisnowsodeafthathedoesnotheargeneralconversation，andcannottellwheretosendhisshaft，whichisalwayspointed。Heretainsallhissarcasmandepigrammaticpoint，butheshinesnowespeciallyatbreakfast，wherehehashisaudiencetohimself。

WewentfromMr。Senior’stoMr。Milman’s，butnearlyallthegueststhereweredepartedordeparting，thoughoneortworeturnedwithustothedrawing—roomtostaythefewminuteswedid。AmongthelingererswefoundSirWilliamandLadyDuffGordon，thetwoWarburtons，\"Hochelaga\"and\"CrescentandCross，\"and\"Eothen。\"

Mrs。MilmanIreallylove，andweseemuchofthem。

OnSaturdaywasthedreadedDrawing—Room，onwhichoccasionIwastobepresentedtotheQueen……Mr。BancroftandIlefthomeataquarterpastone。Onourarrivalwepassedthroughoneortwocorridors，linedbyattendantswithbattle—axesandpicturesquecostumes，lookingverymuchlikethesupernumerariesonthestage，andwereusheredintotheante—room，alargeandsplendidroom，whereonlytheMinistersandPrivyCouncillors，withtheirfamilies，areallowedtogowiththeDiplomaticCorps。HerewefoundLadyPalmerston，whoshowedmealistshehadgotSirEdwardCust，themasterofceremonies，tomakeoutoftheorderofprecedenceoftheDiplomaticCorps，andwhentheturnwouldcomeforuswhoweretobenewlypresented。Theroomsoonfilledupanditwaslikeapleasantparty，onlymoreamusing，asthecostumesofbothgentlemenandladiesweresosplendid。IgotaseatinthewindowwithMadamVandeWeyerandsawtheQueen’straindriveup。Attheendofthisroomaretwodoors：atthelefthandeverybodyentersthenextapartmentwheretheQueenandhersuitestand，andaftergoingroundthecircle，comeoutattheright—handdoor。AfterthosewhoareprivilegedtogoFIRSTintotheANTE—ROOMleaveit，thegeneralcirclepassin，andtheyalsogoinandoutthesamedoors。Buttogoback。Theleft—handdooropensandSirEdwardCustleadsintheCountessDietrichstein，whoistheeldestAmbassadress，astheCountessSt。AulairisinParis。Assheentersshedropshertrainandthegentlemenushersopenitoutlikeapeacock’stail。ThenMadamVandeWeyer，whocomesnext，followscloseuponthetrainoftheformer，thenBaronessBrunnow，theMadamBunsen，thenMadamLisboa，thenLadyPalmerston，who，asthewifeoftheMinisterforForeignAffairs，istointroducethePrincessCallimachi，BaronessdeBeust，andmyself。ShestationsherselfbythesideoftheQueenandnamesusaswepass。TheQueenspoketononeofus，butgavemeaverygracioussmile，andwhenMr。Bancroftcameby，shesaid：\"I

amverygladtohavehadthepleasureofseeingMrs。Bancroftto—

day。\"Iwasnot[at]allfrightenedandgatheredupmytrainwithasmuchself—possessionasifIwerealone。Ifounditveryentertainingafterwardtowatchthereceptionoftheothers。TheDiplomaticCorpsremainthroughthewhole，theladiesstandingontheleftoftheQueenandthegentlemeninthecentre，butallotherspassoutimmediately……OnSundayeveningMr。BancroftsetoffforParistopasstheEasterrecessofParliament……I

gotaveryinterestingletteryesterdayfromMr。Bancroft。ItseemsthattheCountessCircourt，whosehusbandhasreviewedhisbookandPrescott’s，isamostcharmingperson，andmakesherhouseoneofthemostbrilliantandattractiveinParis。Sinceheleft，anotecamefromMr。Hallam，thecontentsofwhichpleasedmeastheywillyou。ItannouncedthatMr。BancroftwaschosenanHonoraryMemberoftheSocietyofAntiquaries，ofwhichLordMahonispresident，Hallam，vice—president。HallamsaysthesocietyisveryoldandthatheisthefirstcitizenoftheUnitedStatesuponwhomithasbeenconferred，butthathewillnotlongpossessitexclusively，ashis\"highlydistinguishedcountryman，Mr。Prescott，hasalsobeenproposed。\"

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

TuesdayMydearSons：……OnMondaymorningcamethedearMissBerrys，tobegmetocomethateveningtojointheircircle。TheyhavealwaysthebestpeopleinLondonaboutthem，youngaswellasold。

Theoldandthemiddle—agedaremoreattendedtoherethanwithus，wheretheyoungareallinall。AsHaywardsaidtometheotherevening，\"ittakestimetomakePEOPLE，likecathedrals，\"andMr。

RogersandMissBerrycouldnothavebeenwhattheyarenow，fortyyearsago。Alonglifeofexperienceinthemidstconstantlyofthehighestandmostcultivatedcircles，andwithseveralgenerationsofdistinguishedmengiveswhatcanbeacquiredinnootherway。Mr。

Rogerssaidtomeoneday：\"IhavelearntmorefrommenthatfromBOOKS，andwhenIusedtobeinthesocietyofFoxandothergreatmenofthatperiod，andtheywouldsometimessay’Ihavealwaysthoughtsoandso，’thenIhaveopenedmyearsandlistened，forI

saidtomyself，nowIshallgetatthetreasuredresultsoftheexperienceofthesegreatmen。\"ThislittlesayingofMr。Rogersexpressespreciselymyownfeelingsinthesocietyofthevenerableanddistinguishedhere。WithussocietyisleftmoretothecruditiesoftheyoungthaninEngland。Theyoungmaybeinterestingandpromisemuch，buttheyarestillCRUDE。Theelements，howeverfine，arenotyetcompletelyassimilatedandbroughttothatmoreperfecttonewhichcomeslaterinlife。

Monday，April12th……OnSaturdayIwentwithSirWilliamandLadyMolesworthtotheirboxinthenewCoventGardenopera，whichhasbeenopenedforthefirsttimethisweek。ThereIsawGrisiandAlboniandTamburiniinthe\"Semiramide。\"Itwasanewworldofdelighttome。

Grisi，sostatuesqueandsograceful，delightstheeye，theear，andthesoul。Sheissculpture，poetry，andmusicatthesametime……Mr。BancrofthasbeenreceivedwithgreatcordialityinParis。HehasbeenthreetimesinvitedtothePalace，andGuizotandMignetgivehimaccesstoallthathewantsinthearchives，andhepasseshiseveningswithalltheeminentmenandbeautifulwomenofParis。

Guizot，Thiers，Lamartine，Cousin，Salvandi，Thierry，hesees，andenjoysall。Theytakehimtothesalons，too，oftheFaubourgSt。

Germain，amongtheoldFrencharistocracy，andtoinnumerablereceptions。

WednesdayTo—morrowIgototheDrawing—Roomalone，andtocompletetheclimax，theQueenhassentusaninvitationtodineatthePalaceto—morrow，andImustgoALONEfortheFIRSTTIME。IfIlivethroughit，Iwilltellyouallaboutit；butisitnotawkwardintheextreme？

FridayMorningAteighto’clockintheeveningIdrovetothePalace。Mydresswasmycurrant—coloredorgrosseillevelvetwithawreathofwhiteArumlilieswovenintoakindofturban，withgreenleaveandbouquettomatch，ontheberthaofBrusselslace。Iwasreceivedbyaservant，whoescortedmethroughalongnarrowcorridorthelengthofWinthropPlaceandconsignedmetoanotherwhoescortedmeinhisturn，throughanotherwidercorridortothefootofaflightofstairswhichIascendedandfoundanotherservant，whotookmycloakandshowedmeintothegrandcorridororpicturegallery；anobleapartmentofinterminablelength；andsurroundedbypicturesofthebestmasters。GeneralBowles，theMasteroftheHousehold，cameforwardtomeetme，andLordByron，whoisoneoftheLordsinWaiting。IfoundMadamLisboaalreadyarrived，andsooncameinLordandLadyPalmerston，theDukeofNorfolk，theMarquisandMarchionessofExeter，LordandLadyDalhousie，LordCharlesWellesley，sonoftheDukeofWellington，LadyByron，andMr。

Hallam。Wesatandtalkedasatanyotherplace，whenatlasttheQueenwasannounced。Thegentlemenrangedthemselvesononeside，andweontheother，andtheQueenandPrincepassedthrough，shebowing，andweprofoundlycurtseying。AssoonasshepassedtheMarquisofExetercameoverandtookMadamLisboa，andLordDalhousiecameandtookme。TheQueenandPrincesatinthemiddleofalongtable，andIwasjustoppositethePrince，betweenLordExeterandLordDalhousie，whoisthesonoftheformerGovernorofNovaScotia，wasinthelastministry，andamostagreeableperson。

Italkedtomyneighborsasatanyotherdinner，buttheQueenspoketonoonebutPrinceAlbert，withawordortwototheDukeofNorfolk，whowasonherright，andisthefirstpeeroftherealm。

Thedinnerwasratherquicklydespatched，andwhentheQueenrosewefollowedherbackintothecorridor。Shewalkedtothefireandstoodsomeminutes，andthenadvancedtomeandenquiredaboutMr。

Bancroft，hisvisittoParis，ifhehadbeentherebefore，etc。I

expressed，ofcourse，theregrethewouldfeelatlosingthehonorofdiningwithHerMajesty，etc。ShethenhadatalkwithLadyPalmerston，whostoodbymyside，thenwithalltheotherladiesinsuccession，untilatlastPrinceAlbertcameout，soonfollowedbytheothergentlemen。ThePrincethenspoketoalltheladies，asshehaddone，whileshewentinsuccessiontoallthegentlemenguests。Thistooksometimeandwewereobligedtostandallthewhile。

AtlasttheQueen，accompaniedbyherLadyinWaiting，LadyMountEdgcumbe，wenttoasofaattheotherendofthecorridorinfrontofwhichwasaroundtablesurroundedbyarm—chairs。WhentheQueenwasseatedLadyMountEdgcumbecametousandrequestedustotakeourseatsroundthetable。Thiswasalittleprim，forIdidnotknowexactlyhowmuchImighttalktoothersintheimmediatepresenceoftheQueen，andeverybodyseemedalittleconstrained。

Shespoketousall，andverysoonsuchofthegentlemenaswereallowedbytheirrank，joinedusattheroundtable。LordDalhousiecameagaintomysideandIhadaspleasantaconversationwithhim，ratherSOTTOVOCE，however，asIcouldhavehadataprivatehouse。

Athalf—pasttentheQueenroseandshookhandswitheachlady；wecurtsiedprofoundly，andsheandthePrincedeparted。Wethenbadeeachothergood—night，andfoundourcarriagesassoonaswechose。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，May16，1847

MydearSons：Mylettersbythissteamerwillhaveverylittleinterestforyou，as，frombeingincompleteretirement，Ihavenonewthingstorelatedtoyou……Wehavetakenadvantageofourleisuretodrivealittleintothecountry，andonTuesdayIhadapleasureofthehighestorderindrivingdowntoEsherandpassingaquietdaywithLadyByron，thewidowofthepoet。SheisanintimatefriendofMissMurray，whohaslongwishedustoseeheranddesiredhertonamethedayforourvisit。

EsherisalittlevillageaboutsixteenmilesfromLondon，andLadyByronhasselecteditasherresidence，thoughherestatesareinLeicestershire，becauseitisnearLordandLadyLovelace，heronlychild，the\"ADA\"ofpoetry。Wewentinourowncarriage，takingMissMurraywithus，andasthecountryisnowradiantwithblossomsandglowinggreen，thedriveitselfwasveryagreeable。Wearrivedattwoo’clock，andfoundonlyLadyByron，withthesecondboyofLadyLovelaceandhistutor。LadyByronisnowaboutfifty—five，andwiththeremainsofanattractive，ifnotbrilliantbeauty。Shehasextremelydelicatefeatures，andverypaleandfinelydelicateskin。Atoneofvoiceandmannerofthemosttremblingrefinement，withacultureandstrongintellect，almostmasculine，butwhichbetraysitselfundersuchsweetandgentleandunobtrusiveformsthatoneisonlyledtoperceiveitbyslowdegrees。Sheisthemostmodestandunostentatiouspersononecanwellconceive。Shelivessimply，andthechiefofherlargeincome（youknowshewastherichMissMilbank）shedevotestoothers。AfterlunchshewishedmetoseealittleofthecountryroundEsherandorderedherponiesandsmallcarriageforherselfandme，whileMr。BancroftandMissMurraywalked。Wewentfirsttotheroyalseat，Claremont，wherethePrincessCharlottelivedsohappilywithLeopold，andwhereshedied。ItsparkadjoinsLadyByron’s，andtheQueenallowsheraprivatekeythatshemayenjoyitsexquisitegrounds。Hereweleftthepedestrians，whileLadyByrontookmeamoreextensivedrive，asshewishedtoshowmesomeoftheheathsintheneighborhood，whicharecoveredwithfurze，nowonemassofyellowbloom。

Everyobjectisseeninfullreliefagainstthesky，andafigureonhorsebackispeculiarlystriking。IamalwaysremindedofthebeginningofoneofJames’snovels，whichisusually，youknow，afterthismanner：\"Itwastowardthecloseofadullautumndaythattwohorsemenwereseen，\"etc。，etc。LadyByrontookmetotheestateofaneighboringgentleman，toshowmeafineoldtowercoveredwithivy，whereWolseytookrefugefromhispersecutors，withhisfaithfulfollower，Cromwell。

Uponourreturnwefoundthelastoftheoldharpers，blind，andwithagenuineoldIrishharp，andafterhearinghisnationalmelodiesforhalfanhour，takingacupofcoffee，andenjoyingalittlemoreofLadyByron’sconversation，wedeparted，havinghadadayheapedupwiththerichestandbestenjoyments。Icouldnothelpthinking，asIwaswalkingupanddownthebeautifulpathsofClaremontPark，withthefreshspringairblowingaboutme，theprimroses，daisies，andwildbluebellsundermyfeet，andLadyByronatmyside，thatitwasmorelikeapageoutofapoemthanareality。

OnSundaynightanyAmericanswhoareherecometoseeus……Mr。

Hardingbroughtwithhimagentleman，whomheintroducedasMr。

Alison。Mr。BancroftaskedhimifhewererelatedtoArchdeaconAlison，whowrotethe\"EssayonTaste。\"\"Iamhisson，\"saidhe。

\"Ah，then，youarethebrotherofthehistorian？\"saidMr。Bancroft。

\"Iamthehistorian，\"wasthereply……Aneveningvisitorisathingunheardof，andthereforemylifeisverylonely，nowIdonotgointosociety。IseenooneexceptSundayevenings，and，occasionally，afriendbeforedinner。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。

LONDON，May24，[1847]

MydearSons：……OnFridaywebothwenttoseethePalaceofHamptonCourtwithmydear，good，MissMurray，Mr。Winthropandson，andLouise……Onourarrival，wefound，toourgreatvexation，thatFridaywastheonlydayintheweekinwhichvisitorswerenotadmitted，andthatwemustcontentourselveswithseeingthegroundsandgobackwithoutaglimpseofitsnoblegalleriesofpictures。

Fortunatelyforus，MissMurrayhadseveralfriendsamongthepersonstowhomtheQueenhasassignedapartmentsinthevastedifice，andtheywillinglyyieldedtheirapprobationofouradmissionifshecouldpossiblywinoverMrs。Grundy，thehousekeeper。Thisnamesoundedratherinauspicious，butMr。

Winthropsuggestedthattheremightbea\"Felix\"toqualifyit，andsointhiscaseitturnedout。Mrs。Grundyassertedthatsuchathinghadneverbeendone，thatitwasaverydangerousprecedent，etc。，butintheendtheweightofaMaidofHonorandaForeignMinisterprevailed，andwesaweverythingtomuchgreateradvantagethanifwehad150personsfollowingon，asMr。WinthropsayshehadtheotherdayatWindsorCastle……Onourway[home]wemetLadyByronwithherprettylittlecarriageandponies。Shealightedandwedidthesame，andhadquiteapleasantlittleinterviewinthedustyroad。

Sunday，May30thYourfatherlefttownonMonday……Hedidnotreturnuntilthe27th，themorningoftheQueen’sBirthdayDrawing—Room。OnthatoccasionIwentdressedinwhitemourning……Itwasapetticoatofwhitecrapeflouncedtothewaistwiththeedgesnotched。A

trainofwhiteglacetrimmedwitharucheofwhitecrape。Awreathandbouquetofwhitelilacs，withoutanygreen，asgreenisnotusedinmourning。Thearrayofdiamondsonthisoccasionwasmagnificentinthehighestdegree，andeverybodywasintheirmostsplendidarray。ThenexteveningtherewasaconcertatthePalace，atwhichJennyLind，Grisi，Alboni，Mario，andTamburinisang。Iwentdressedin[a]deepblackdressandenjoyedthemusichighly。Seatswereplacedinrowsintheconcert—roomandonesatquietlyasifinchurch。Attheendofthefirstpart，theroyalfamilywiththeirroyalguests，theGrandDukeConstantineofRussia，andtheGrandDukeandDuchessofSaxe—Weimarwenttothegranddining—roomandsuppedbythemselves，withtheirsuites，whileanotherelegantrefreshmenttablewasspreadinanotherapartmentfortheotherguests……JennyLindalittledisappointedme，Imustconfess，buttheytellmethathersongswerenotadaptedonthateveningtothedisplayofhervoice。

OnSundayeveningyourfatherdinedwithBaronBrunnow，theRussianMinister，tomeettheGrandDukeConstantine。ItsohappenedthattheGrandDukeandDuchessofSaxe—WeimarappointedanaudiencetoBaronandBaronessBrunnowatseven，andtheyhadnotreturnedathalf—pastseven，whentheGrandDukeandtheirotherguestsarrived。

TheBaronessimmediatelyadvancedtotheGrandDukeandsunkonherkneesbeforehim，askingpardoninRussian。Hebeggedhertorise，butsheremainedintheattitudeofdeephumiliation，untiltheGrandDukesunkalsoonHISkneesandgentlyraisedher，andthenkissedheronthecheek，aprivilege，youknow，ofroyalty……OnMondayeveningwebothwenttoaconcertatMr。Hudson’s，thegreatrailway\"king，\"whohasjustmadeanimmensefortunefromrailwaystocks，andisnowdesiroustogetintosociety。Thesethingsaremanagedinacuriouswayhere。ANOUVEAURICHEgetsseveralladiesoffashiontopatronizetheirentertainmentandinvitealltheguests。OurinvitationwasfromLadyParke，whowrotemetwonotesaboutit，sayingthatshewouldbehappytomeetmeatMrs。Hudson’ssplendidmansion，wherewouldbethebestmusicandsocietyofLondon；and，trueenough，therewastheDukeofWellingtonandalltheworld。LadyParkestoodattheentranceofthesplendidsuiteofroomstoreceivetheguestsandintroducethemtotheirhostandhostess。OnTuesdaymorningIgotanotefromMr。

EliotWarburton（brotherof\"Hochelaga\"）tocometohisroomattwoo’clockandlookatsomedrawings。Tooursurprisewefoundquiteapartyseatedatlunch，andacollectionofmanyagreeablepersonsandsomelionsandlionesses。TherewasLordRoss，thegreatastronomer；BaronessRothschild，alovelyJewess；MissStrickland，theauthoressofthe\"QueensofEngland\"；\"Eothen，\"andmanymore。

Mr。Polk，CHARGEatNaples，andbrotherofthePresident，dinedwithus，andMissMurray，andintheeveningcameMr。andMrs。McLean，heasonofJudgeMcLean，ofOhio。

June17thOnFridayeveningwewenttotheQueen’sBall，andforthefirsttimesawHerMajestydance，whichshedoesverywell，andsodoestheDuchessofSutherland，grandmotherthoughshebe。

OnMondayeveningwewenttoaconcertgiventotheQueenbytheDukeofWellingtonatApsleyHouse。Thiswasanoccasionnottobeforgotten，butIcannotdescribeit。OnTuesdayIwentforthefirsttimetohearadebateuponthePortugalinterferenceintheHouseofLords。Itbroughtoutalltheleaders，andIwassofortunateastohearamostpowerfulspeechfromLordStanley，onefromLordLansdowneindefenceoftheMinistryandonefromtheDukeofWellington，who，onthisoccasion，sidedwiththeMinisters。OnWednesdaywasthegreatFETEgivenbytheDuchessofSutherlandtotheQueen。Itwaslikeachapterofafairytale。PersonsfromallthecourtsofEuropewhoweretheretoldusthatnowhereinEuropewasthereanythingasfineasthehallandgrandstaircasewheretheDuchessreceivedherguests。Itexceededmyutmostconceptionsofmagnificenceandbeauty。Thevastsizeoftheapartment，thevaultedceilings，thearabesqueornaments，thefinepictures，theprofusionofflowers，themusic，theflourishoftrumpets，astheQueenpassedbackwardandforward，thesuperbdressesanddiamondsofthewomen，theparti—coloredfulldressofthegentlemenallcontributedtomakeupascenenottobeforgotten。TheQueen’sBallwasnottobecomparedtoit，somuchmoreeffectiveisStaffordHousethanBuckinghamPalace……Wewerefortunatetobepresentthere，forStaffordHouseisnotopenedinthiswaybutonceinayearortwo，andtheDuke’shealthisnowsoveryuncertain，thatitmaybemanyyearsbeforeithappensagain。Hewasnotpresenttheotherevening。

LETTER：ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。

MydearUncleandAunt：

LONDON，June20，1847

Onthe19th，Saturday，webreakfastedwithLadyByronandmyfriend，MissMurray，atMr。Rogers’。HeandLadyByronhadnotmetformany，manyyears，andtheirrenewalofoldfriendshipwasveryinterestingtowitness。Mr。RogerstoldmethathefirstintroducedhertoLordByron。Afterbreakfasthehadbeenrepeatingsomelinesofpoetrywhichhethoughtfine，whenhesuddenlyexclaimed：\"ButthereisabitofAmericanPROSE，which，Ithink，hadmorepoetryinitthanalmostanymodernverse。\"Hethenrepeated，Ishouldthink，morethanapagefromDana’s\"TwoYearsBeforetheMast，\"describingthefallingoverboardofoneofthecrew，andtheeffectitproduced，notonlyatthemoment，butforsometimeafterward。I

wonderedathismemory，whichenabledhimtorecitesobeautifullyalongprosepassage，somuchmoredifficultthanverse。Severalofthosepresentwithwhomthebookwasafavorite，weresogladtohearfrommethatitwasasTRUEasinteresting，fortheyhadregardeditaspartlyaworkofimagination。LadyByronhadtoldMr。RogerswhenshecameinthatLadyLovelace，herdaughter（Ada）

wishedalsotopayhimavisit，andwouldcomeafterbreakfasttojoinusforhalfanhour。ShealsohadnotseenRogers，IBELIEVE，ever。LadyLovelacejoinedussoonafterbreakfast，andaswewerespeakingoftheenchantmentofStaffordHouseonWednesdayevening，Mr。Rogersproposedtogooveritandseeitsfinepicturesbydaylight。Heimmediatelywenthimselfbyashortbackpassagethroughtheparktoaskpermissionandreturnedwithalltheeagernessandgallantryofayoungmantosaythathehadobtainedit。Wehadthusanopportunityofseeing，inthemostleisurelywayandinthemostdelightfulsociety，thefinepicturesandnobleapartmentsofStaffordHouseagain……OnTuesdayMr。HallamtookustotheBritishMuseum，andbeingadirector，hecouldenteronaprivateday，whenwewerenotannoyedbyacrowd，and，moreover，wehadtheadvantageofthebestinterpretersandguides。Wedidnotevenenterthelibrary，whichrequiresadaybyitself，butconfinedourselvestotheAntiquityrooms……AsIenteredtheroomdevotedtotheElginmarbles，theworksofthe\"divinePhidias，\"Isteppedwithawe，asifenteringatemple，andtheSecretary，whowasbymyside，observingit，toldmethattheGrandDukeConstantine，whenhecameafewdaysbefore，made，asheentered，amostprofoundandreverentialbow。Thiswasoneofmymostdelightfulmornings，andIlefttheAntiquitieswithastrongerdesiretoseethemagainthanbeforeIhadseenthematall。

Sunday，June27th……IwentonWednesdaytodineatLordMonteagle’stomeetFatherMathew，andtheArchbishopofDublin（Dr。Whately）alsodinedthere。

FatherMathewspokewithgreatinterestofAmericaandofAmericanliberality，andisveryanxioustogotoourcountry。HesawMr。

ForbesatCorkandspokeofhimwithgreatregard……On[Saturday]Mr。BancroftwenttothepalacetoseetheKingoftheBelgians，withtherestoftheDiplomaticCorps。AfterhisreturnwewenttoWestminsterHalltoseetheprizepictures，asLordLansdownehadsentusticketsfortheprivateview。TheCommissionofFineArtshaveofferedprizesforthebesthistoricalpicturesthatmayservetoadornthenewHousesofParliament，andthepicturesofthiscollectionwereallpaintedwiththatview。OneofthosewhichhavereceivedaprizeisJohnRobinsonbestowinghisfarewellblessinguponthePilgrimsatLeyden，whichisverypleasing。Itwastomelikeafriendinastrangecountry，andI

lingeredoveritthelongest。

July2dWednesday[evening]wewenttoLadyDuffGordon’s，whoisthedaughterofMrs。Austin，wherewasamostagreeableparty，andamongothers，Andersen，theDanishpoet—authorofthe\"Improvisatore。\"Hehasamoststrikingpoeticalphysiognomy，butashetalkedonlyGermanorbadFrench，IlefthimtoMr。Bancroftintheconversationway。

Thenextmorningbeforenineo’clockweweretoldthatMr。Rogers，thepoet，wasdownstairs。Icouldnotimaginewhathadbroughthimoutsoearly，butfoundthatMoore，thepoet，hadcometotownandwouldstaybutaday，andwemustgothatverymorningandbreakfastwithhimatteno’clock。Wewentandfoundadelightfulcircle。I

satbetweenMooreandRogers，whowasinhisverybesthumor。Mooreisbutawreck，butmostainterestingone。

LETTER：ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。

NunehamPark，July27，1847

MydearUncleandAunt：……Imustgobacktothedaywhenmylastlettersweredespatched，asmylifesincehasbeenfullofinterest。OnMondayevening，the19th，wewenttotheFrenchplay，toseeRachelin\"Phedre。\"Shefarsurpassedmyimaginationintheexpressionofallthepowerfulpassions……OnTuesdayMr。

BancroftwentdowntohearLordJohnmakeaspeechtohisconstituentsinthecity，whileIwenttoseeMissBurdett—Couttslaythecorner—stoneofthechurchwhich\"theBishopofLondonhaspermittedhertobuild，\"touseherownexpressioninhernotetome。Intheeveningwedinedtherewithmanyoftheclergy，andLordBrougham，LordDundonald，etc。IwentdownwiththeDeanofWestminster，whowasveryagreeableandinstructive。HeandDr。

Whatelyhavethesimplicityofchildren，withanimmensedealofknowledge，whichtheyimpartinthemostpleasantway。Saturday，the24th，weweretoleavetownforourfirstcountryexcursion。WewereinvitedbyDr。Hawtrey，theHeadMasterofEton，tobepresentattheceremoniesaccompanyingtheannualelectionofsuchboysontheFoundationasareselectedtogouptoKing’sCollege，Cambridge，wheretheyarealsoplacedonaFoundation。FromreadingDr。Arnold’slifeyouwillhavelearnedthattheheadmasterofoneoftheseverygreatschoolsisnounimportantpersonage。Dr。

Hawtreyhasanincomeofsixorseventhousandpounds。Heisunmarried，buthastwosinglesisterswholivewithhim，andhisestablishmentinoneoftheoldcollegehousesisfullofeleganceandcomfort。Wetookanopentravellingcarriagewithimperials，anddrovedowntoEtonwithourownhorses，arrivingaboutoneo’clock。Attwo，precisely，theProvostofKing’sCollege，Cambridge，wastoarrive，andtobereceivedundertheoldgatewayofthecloisterbytheCaptainoftheschoolwithaLatinspeech。

Afterdinnerthereisaregattaamongtheboys，whichisoneofthecharacteristicandpleasingoldcustoms。AllthefashionablesofLondonwhohavesonsatEtoncomedowntowitnesstheirhappiness，andtheriverbankisfullofgayety。TheeveningfinishedwiththemostbeautifulfireworksIeversaw，whichlighteduptheCastlebehindandwerereflectedintheThamesbelow，whiletheglancingoarsoftheyoungboatmen，andthemusicoftheirbandwithamerrychimeofbellsfromSt。George’sChapel，above，allcombinedtogivegayetyandinteresttothescene。Thenextmorning（Sunday），afteranagreeablebreakfastinthelong，low—walledbreakfast—room，whichopensupontheflowergarden，wewenttoWindsortoworshipinSt。

George’sChapel。TheQueen’sstallisratherlargerthantheothers，andoneisleftvacantforthePrinceofWales。

LONDON，July29thAndnowwithanewsheetImustbeginmyaccountofNuneham……

TheArchbishopofYorkisthesecondsonofLordVernon，buthisuncle，EarlHarcourt，dyingwithoutchildren，lefthimallhisestate，uponwhichhetookthenameofHarcourt。Wearrivedaboutfouro’clock……Thedinnerwasathalf—pastseven，andwhenI

wentdownIfoundtheDuchessofSutherland，LadyCarolineLeveson—

Gower，LordKildare，andseveralofthesonsanddaughtersoftheArchbishop。Thedinnerandeveningpassedoffveryagreeably。TheDuchessisamosthigh—bredperson，andthoroughlycourteous。Asweweregoinginoroutofaroominsteadofprecedingme，whichwasherright，shealwaysmademetakeherarm，whichwasadelicatewayofgettingoverherprecedence……Athalf—pastninethe[nextmorning]wemetinthedrawing—room，whentheArchbishopledthewaydowntoprayers。Thiswasabeautifulscene，forheisnowninety，andtohearhimreadtheprayerswithafirm，clearvoice，whilehisfamilyanddependentskneltabouthimwasapleasurenevertobeforgotten……AtfiveIwastodriveroundtheparkwiththeArchbishophimselfinhisopencarriage。Thisdrivewasmostcharming。Heexplainedeverything，toldmewhensuchtreeswouldbefelled，andwhencertaintractsofunderwoodwouldbefitforcutting，howoldthedifferent—sizeddeerwere——inshort，thewholeeconomyofanEnglishpark。Everyprettypointofview，too，hemademesee，andwasasactiveandwide—awakeasifhewerethirty，ratherthanninety……Thenextmorning，afterprayersandbreakfast，Itookmyleave。

LETTER：ToA。H。

BISHOP’SPALACE，NORWICH，August1stMydearAnn：HowIwishIcouldtransportyoutothespotwhereI

amwriting，butifIcouldsummonitbeforeyouractualvisionyouwouldtakeitforadreamoraromance，sodifferentiseverythingwithinthewallswhichenclosetheprecinctsofanEnglishCathedralfromanythingwecanconceiveonoursideofthewater……SomeofthelearnedpeopleandnoblemenhaveformedanArchaeologicalSocietyforthestudyandpreservation[of]theinterestingarchitecturalantiquitiesofthekingdom，and[it]isupontheoccasionoftheannualmeetingofthissocietyforaweekatNorwichthattheBishophasinvitedustostayafewdaysatthepalaceandjointhemintheiragreeableantiquarianexcursions。WearrivedonFridayatfiveo’clockafteralongdulljourneyoffivehoursontherailway……Stayinginthehouseareourfriends，Mr。andMrs。Milman，LordNorthamptonandhisson，LordAlwyneCompton，andtheBishop’sfamily，consistingofMrs。Stanley，andoftwoMissStanleys，agreeableandhighlycultivatedgirls，andMr。ArthurStanley，thewriterofDr。Arnold’sBiography。

Afterdinnercompanysoonarrived。AmongthemwereMrs。Opie，whoresideshere。Sheisapleasing，livelyoldlady，infullQuakerdress。Themostcuriousfeatureoftheeveningwasavisitwhichthecompanypaidtothecellarandkitchen，whichwerelightedupfortheoccasion。TheywerebuildbytheoldNormanbishopsofthetwelfthcentury，andhadvaultedstoneroofsasbeautifullycarvedandribbedasachurch。

Thenextday，Saturday，theantiquariansmadealongexcursiontohuntupsomeruins，whiletheMilmans，Mr。Stanley，andourselves，wenttovisittheplaceofLadySuffield，abouttwelvemilesdistant，andwhichisthemostperfectspecimenoftheElizabethanstyle。LadySuffieldherselfisasElizabethanasherestablishment；sheisofone[of]theoldesthighToryfamiliesandsoopposedtoinnovationsofallsortsthatthoughherletters，whichusedtoarriveattwo，beforetheopeningoftherailwaytwoyearsago，nowarriveatseveninthemorning，theyareneverallowedtobebroughttilltheoldhour……ThismorningMr。

BancroftandtherestaregoneonanexcursiontoYarmouthtoseesomeruins，whileIremainheretowitnessthechairingoftwonewmembersofParliament，whohavejustbeenelected，ofwhomLordDouro，sonoftheDukeofWellington，isone。

LETTER：ToI。P。D。

AUDLEYEND，October14，1847

DearUncle：WearestayingforafewdaysatLordBraybrooke’splace，oneofthemostmagnificentinEngland；butbeforeIsayawordaboutitImusttellyouofA。’ssafearrivalandhowhappyI

havebeenmadebyhavinghimwithmeagain……OnSaturdaythe9thwehadthehonorofdiningwiththeLORDMAYORtomeettheDukeofCambridge，aFETEsounlikeanythingelseandaccompaniedbysomanyoldandpeculiarcustomsthatImustdescribeittoyouatfulllength。TheMansionHouseisintheheartoftheCITY，andisverymagnificentandspacious，theEgyptianHall，asthedining—roomiscalled，beingoneofthenoblestapartmentsIhaveseen。Theguestswereabout250innumberandwerereceivedbytheLadyMayoressSITTING。Whendinnerwasannounced，theLordMayorwentoutfirst，precededbythesword—bearerandmace—bearerandalltheinsigniaofoffice。ThencametheDukeofCambridgeandtheLadyMayoress，thenMr。BancroftandItogether，whichisthecustomatthesegreatcivicfeasts。WemarchedthroughthelonggallerybythemusicofthebandtotheEgyptianHall，wheretworaisedseatslikethroneswereprovidedfortheLordMayorandMayoressattheheadofthehall。OntherighthandoftheLordMayorsattheDukeofCambridgeinaCOMMONCHAIR，forroyaltyyieldsentirelytotheMayor，onhisownground。OntherightoftheDukeofCambridgesattheMayoress—

elect（forthepresentdignitariesgooutofofficeonthe1stofNovember）。OnthelefthandofthepresentLadyMayoresssattheLordMayor—ELECT，thenIcamewithmyhusbandonmylefthandinveryconjugalstyle。

Therewerethreetablesthewholelengthofthehall，andthatatwhichwewereplacedwentacrossatthehead。Whenweareplaced，theheraldstandsbehindtheLordMayorandcries：\"MyLords，Ladies，andGentlemen，praysilence，forgrace。\"Thenthechaplaininhisgown，goesbehindtheLordMayorandsaysgrace。Afterthesecondcoursetwolargegoldcups，nearlytwofeethigh，areplacedbeforetheMayorandMayoress。Theheraldthencrieswithaloudvoice：\"HisRoyalHighnesstheDukeofCambridge，theAmericanMinister，theLordChiefBaron，\"etc。，etc。（enumeratingaboutadozenofthemostdistinguishedguests），\"andladiesandgentlemenall，theLordMayorandLadyMayoressdobidyoumostheartilywelcomeandinviteyoutodrinkinalovingcup。\"WhereupontheMayorandMayoressriseandeachturntotheirnextneighbor，whotakeoffthecoverwhiletheydrink。Aftermyright—handneighbor，theLordMayor—elect，hadputonthecover，heturnstomeandsays，\"Pleasetakeoffthecover，\"whichIdoandholditwhilehedrinks；

thenIreplacethecoverandturnroundtoMr。Bancroft，whorisesandperformsthesameofficeformewhileIdrink；thenheturnstohisnextneighbor，whotakesoffthecoverforhim。IhavenotfeltsosolemnsinceIstooduptobemarriedaswhenMr。BancroftandI

werestandingupalonetogether，therestofthecompanylookingon，Iwiththisgreatheavygoldcupinmyhand，soheavythatIcouldscarcelyliftittomymouthwithbothhands，andhewiththecoverbeforeme，withratheramischievousexpressioninhisface。Thencametwoimmensegoldplattersfilledwithrosewater，whichwerealsopassedround。Thesegoldvesselswereonlyusedbythepersonsattheheadtable；theotherguestswereservedwithsilvercups。

Whenthedessertandthewineareplacedonthetable，theheraldsays，\"MyLords，Ladies，andGentlemen，pleasetochargeyourglasses。\"Afterwedulychargeourglassestheheraldcries：

\"Lords，Ladies，andGentlemen，praysilencefortheLordMayor。\"Hethenrisesandproposesthefirsttoast，whichis，ofcourse，always\"TheQueen。\"Afteratimecamethe\"AmericanMinister，\"whowasobligedtoriseupatmyelbowandrespond。Wegothomejustaftertwelve。

AndnowletmetrytogiveyousomefaintideaofAudleyEnd，whichisbyfarthemostmagnificenthouseIhaveseenyet。ItwasbuiltbytheEarlofSuffolk，sonoftheDukeofNorfolkwhowasbeheadedinElizabeth’sreignforhightreason，uponthesiteofanabbey，thelandsofwhichhadbeengrantedbythecrowntothatpowerfulfamily。OneoftheEarlsofSuffolkdyingwithoutsons，theEARLDOM

passedintoanotherbranchandtheBARONYandESTATEofHowarddeWaldencameintothefemaleline。Incourseoftime，aLordHowarddeWaldendyingwithoutason，histitlealsopassedintoanotherfamily，buthisestatewenttohisnephew，LordBraybrooke，thefatherofthepresentLord。LadyBraybrookeisthedaughteroftheMarquisofCornwallis，andgranddaughterofourAmericanLordCornwallis。

ThehouseisoftheElizabethanperiodandisoneofthebestpreservedspecimensofthatstyle，butofitsvastextentandmagnificenceIcangiveyounoidea。Wearrivedaboutfiveo’clock，andwereusheredthroughanimmensehallofcarvedoakhungwithbannersupafinestaircasetothegrandsaloon，wherewewerereceivedbythehostandhostess。NowofthisgrandsaloonImusttrytogiveyouaconception。Itwas，Ishouldthink，fromseventy—

fivetoonehundredfeetinlength。Theceilingoverheadwasveryrichwithhangingcorbels，likestalactites，andtheentirewallswerepanelled，withafull—lengthfamilyportraitineachpanel，whichwasarchedatthetop，sothatthewholewallwascomposedoftheseround—toppedpictureswithrichgildingbetween。

Notwithstandingitsvastsize，thesofasandtablesweresodisposedallovertheapartmentastogiveitthemostfriendly，warm，andsocialaspect。

LadyBraybrookeherselfusheredmetomyapartments，whichwerethestaterooms。FirstcameMr。Bancroft’sdressing—room，wherewasablazingfire。Thencamethebedroom，withthestatebedofblueandgold，coveredwithembroidery，andwiththearmsandcoronetofHowarddeWalden。Thewallswerehungwithcrimsonandwhitedamask，andthesofasandchairsalso，anditwassurroundedbypictures，amongothersafulllengthofQueenCharlotte，justoppositethefootofthebed，alwayssalutedmeeverymorningwhenI

awoke，withherfan，herhoop，andherdeepruffles。

Mydressing—room，whichwasontheoppositesidefromMr。

Bancroft’s，wasaperfectgem。ItwaspaintedbythefamousRebeccowhocameoverfromItalytoornamentsomanyofthegreatEnglishhousesatonetime。Thewholeceilingandwallswerecoveredwithbeautifuldesignsandwithgilding，andabeautifulrecessforacouchwassupportedbyflutedgildedcolumns；thearchitravesandmouldingsofthedoorsweregilt，andthepanelsofthedoorswerefilledwithRebecco’sbeautifuldesigns。Thechairswereoflightblueembroideredwiththick，heavygold，andallthisbearingthestampofantiquitywasathousandtimesmoreinterestingthanmeremodernsplendor。Inthecentreoftheroomwasatoiletofwhitemuslin（universalhere），andonitagiltdressing—glass，whichgaveprettyeffecttothewhole。

IsatatdinnerbetweenLordBraybrookeandSirJohnBoileau，andfoundthembothveryagreeable。Thedining—roomisasmagnificentastheotherapartments。TheceilingisintheElizabethanstyle，coveredwithfigures，andthewallswhiteandgoldpanellinghungwithfull—lengthfamilyportraitsnotsetintothewalllikethesaloon，butinframes。Intheeveningtheyoungpeoplehadaroundgameatcardsandtheelderonesseemedtoprefertalkingtoagameatwhist。Theladiesbroughtdowntheirembroideryornetting。Atelevenatraywithwineandwaterisbroughtinandaquantityofbedcandlesticks，andeverybodyretireswhentheylike。Thenextmorningtheguestsassembledathalf—pastnineinthegreatgallerywhichleadstothechapeltogointogethertoprayers。Thechapelisreallyabeautifullittlepieceofarchitecture，withavaultedroofandwindowsofpaintedglass。OnonesideistheoriginalcastofthelargemonumenttoLordCornwallis（ourlord）whichisinWestminsterAbbey。Afterbreakfastwepassedacoupleofhoursingoingalloverthehouse，whichisinperfectkeepingineverypart。

Wereturnedtothelibrary，aroomassplendidasthesaloon，onlyinsteadofpicturedpanelsitwassurroundedbybooksinbeautifulgiltbindings。IntheimmensebaywindowwasalargeLouisQuatorzetable，roundwhichtheladiesallplacedthemselvesattheirembroidery，thoughIpreferredlookingovercuriousilluminatedmissals，etc。，etc。

ThenextdaywasthemeetingoftheCountyAgriculturalSociety……Atthehourappointedweallrepairedtothegroundwheretheprizesweretobegivenout……LordBraybrookemadefirstamostpaternalandinterestingaddress，whichshowedmeinthemostfavorableviewtherelationbetweenthenobleandthelowerclassinEngland，arelationwhichmustdependmuchonthepersonalcharacterofthelordofthemanor……Firstcameprizestoploughmen，thentheploughboys，thentheshepherds，thentosuchpeasantsashadrearedmanychildrenwithoutaid，thentowomenwhohadbeenmanyyearsinthesamefarmer’sservice，etc。，etc。Aclockwasawardedtoapoormanandhiswifewhohadrearedsixchildrenandburiedsevenwithoutaidfromtheparish。TherapturewithwhichMr。andMrs。Flittonandthewholesixchildrengazedonthisclock，animmensetreasureforapeasant’scottage，wasbothcomicandaffecting……Thenextmorningwemadeouradieustoourkindhostandhostess，andsetoffforLondon，accompaniedbySirJohnTyrrell，MajorBeresford，andyoungMr。Boileau。

LETTER：ToW。D。B。

LONDON，November4，1847

DearW。：……Mr。BancroftandIdinedonFriday，the22d，withMr。andMrs。Hawes，under—SecretaryofState，tomeetMr。Brooke，theRajahofSarawak，whoisagreatlioninLondonjustnow。HeisanEnglishgentlemanoflargefortunewhohasdonemuchtoChristianizeBorneo，andtoopenitstradetotheEnglish。IsatbetweenhimandMr。Ward，formerlyMinistertoMexicobeforeMr。

Pakenham。HewroteaverynicebookonMexico，andisanagreeableandintelligentperson……OnWednesdayA。andIwenttogethertotheNationalGallery，andjustasweweresettingoutMr。ButlerofNewYorkcameinandIinvitedhimtojoinus……WhilewewereseatedbeforeacharmingClaudewhoshouldcomeinbutMr。R。W。

Emersonandwehadquiteajoyfulgreeting。JustthencameinMr。

Rogerswithtwoladies，oneoneacharm。HerenewedhisrequestthatIwouldbringmysontobreakfastwithhim，andappointedFridaymorning，andthenaddedifthosegentlemenwhoarewithyouareyourfriendsandcountrymen，perhapstheywillaccompanyyou。

Theyverygladlyacceded，andIwasthankfulMr。Emersonhadchancedtobewithmeatthatmomentasitprocuredhimahighpleasure。

YesterdayyourfatherandIdinedwithSirGeorgeGrey……Aboutfouro’clockcameonsuchafogasIhavenotseeninLondon，andthenewspapersofthismorningspeakofitasgreaterthanhasbeenknownformanyyears。SirGeorgeGreylivesinEatonPlace，whichisparallelandjustbehindEatonSquare。Ingoingthatlittledistance，thoughthereisabrilliantgaslightateverydoor，thecoachmanwascompletelybewildered，andlosthimselfentirely。Wecouldonlywalkthehorses，thefootmanexploringahead。Whentheguestsbydegreesarrived，therewasthesamerejoicingasifwehadmetonMontSt。BernardafteracontestwithanAlpinesnow—storm……LadyGreytoldmeshewasdiningwiththeQueenonceinoneofthesetremendousfogs，andthatmanyoftheguestsdidnotarrivetilldinnerwashalfthrough，whichwashorribleataroyaldinner；

buttheelementscarelittleforroyalty。

November14thOnSaturdaywedinedattheDucdeBroglie’s。HemarriedthedaughterofMadamdeStael，butsheisnotnowliving。IwasveryagreeablyplacedwithMr。Macaulayononesideofme，sothatI

founditmorepleasantthandiplomaticdinnersusually。AttheEnglishtableswemeetpeoplewhoknoweachotherwell，andhaveacommoncultureandtastesandhabitsoffamiliarity，andafundofpleasantstories，butofcourse，atforeigntables，theyneitherknoweachotherortheEnglishsowellastogivethesameeasyflowtoconversation。Iamafraidwearethegreatestdiners—outinLondon，butwearebroughtintocontactagreatdealwiththeliteraryandParliamentarypeople，whichourcolleaguesknowlittleabout，asalsowiththeclergyandthejudges。Ishouldnotbewillingtomakeitthehabitofmylife，butitistimenotmisspentduringtheyearsofourabodehere……ThegoodoldArchbishopofYorkisdead，andIamgladIpaidmyvisittohimwhenIdid。Mr。

Rogershaspaidmealongvisitto—dayandgavemealltheparticularsofhisdeath。ItwasasubjectIshouldnothaveintroduced，forofthatknotofintimatefriends，Mr。Grenville，theArchbishop，andhimself，heisnowallthatremains。

November28th……OnMondayeveningIwentwithoutMr。BancrofttoalittlepartyatMrs。Lyell’s，whereIwasintroducedtoMrs。Somerville。

Shehasresidedforthelastnineyearsabroad，chieflyatVenice，buthasnowcometoLondonandtakenahouseverynearus……Herdaughtertoldmethatnothingcouldexceedtheeaseandsimplicitywithwhichherliteraryoccupationswerecarriedon。SheisjustpublishingabookuponNaturalGeographywithoutregardtopoliticalboundaries。Shewritesprincipallybeforesherisesinthemorningonalittlepieceofboard，withherinkstandonatablebyherside。Aftersheleavesherroomsheisasmuchatleisureasotherpeople，butifanideastrikeshershetakesherlittleboardintoacornerorwindowandwritesquietlyforashorttimeandreturnstojointhecircle。

Dr。Somervilletoldmethathiswifedidnotdiscoverhergeniusformathematicstillshewasaboutsixteen。Herbrother，whohasnotalentforit，wasreceivingamathematicallessonfromamasterwhileshewashemmingandstitchingintheroom。InthiswayshefirstheardtheproblemsofEuclidstatedandwasravished。Whenthelessonwasover，shecarriedoffthebooktoherroomanddevouredit。Foralongtimeshepursuedherstudiessecretly，asshehadscaledheightsofsciencewhichwerenotconsideredfemininebythoseabouther。

December2dIputdownmypenyesterdaywhenthecarriagecametothedoorformydrive。Itwasadaybright，beaming，andexhilaratingasoneofourownwinterdays。IwassobusyenjoyingtheunusualbeamsoftheuncloudedsunthatIdidnotperceiveforsometimethatIhadleftmymuff，andwasobligedtodrivehomeagaintogetit。WhileIwaswaitinginthecarriageforthefootmantogetit，twoofthemostagreeableold—ladyfacesintheworldpresentedthemselvesatthewindow。TheyweretheMissBerrys。Theyhaddrivenupbehindmeandgotouttohavealittletalkonthesidewalk。ItookthemintoMr。Bancroft’sroomandwasthankfulthatmymuffhadsentmebacktoreceiveavisitwhichattheirageisrarelypaid……I

foundthemfullofdelightatMr。Brooke，theRajahofSarawak，withwhosenoblenessofsoultheywouldhavegreatsympathy。HeisjustnowthelionofLondon，andlikeallotherlionsisrunafterbymostpeoplebecauseheisone，andbythefewbecausehedeservestobeone。Now，lestyoushouldknownothingabouthim，letmetellyouthatathisownexpensehefittedoutavessel，andestablishedhimselfatBorneo，wherehesoonacquiredsogreat[an]ascendancyoverthenativeRajah，thatheinsistedonresigningtohimthegovernmentofhisprovinceofSarawak。Here，withonlythreeEuropeancompanions，bymoralandintellectualforcealone，hesucceededinsuppressingpiracyandcivilwaramongthenativesandopenedatradewiththeinteriorofBorneowhichpromisesgreatadvantagestoEngland……EverybodyherehastheINFLUENZA——aright—downinfluenza，thatsendspeopletotheirbeds。Thosewhohavetriumphedattheirexemptionintheevening，wakeupperhapsinthemorningfullofachesineverylimb，andscoffnolonger……

Dinnerpartiesaresometimesquitebrokenupbytheexcusesthatcomepouringinatthelastmoment。LadyJohnRussellhadsevenlastweekatasmalldinneroftwelve；1，200policemenatonetimeweretakenoffduty，sothatthethievesmighthavehadtheirownway，buttheywereprobablyasbadlyoffthemselves。

LETTER：ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。

LONDON，December16，1847

MydearUncleandAunt：……OnSaturdayMr。HallamwroteusthatSirRobertPeelhadpromisedtobreakfastwithhimonMondaymorningandhethoughtweshouldliketomeethiminthatquietway。Sowepresentedourselvesatteno’clock，andwerejoinedbySirRobert，LordMahon，Macaulay，andMilman，whowithHallamhimself，formedacirclethatcouldnotbeexceededinthewideworld。Iwastheonlylady，exceptMissHallam；butIamespeciallyfavoredinthebreakfastline。IwouldcrosstheAtlanticonlyforthepleasureI

hadthatmorninginhearingsuchmentalkfortwoorthreehoursinanentirelyeasyunceremoniousbreakfastway。SirRobertwasfullofstories，andshowedhimselfasmuchthescholarasthestatesman。

Macaulaywasoverflowingasusual，andLordMahonandMilmanarefulloflearningandaccomplishments。Theclassicalscholarshipofthesemenisveryperfectandsometimesonecatchesaglimpseofawfullydeepabyssesoflearning。ButthenitisONLYaglimpse，fortheirlearninghasnocumbrousanddullpedantryaboutit。Theyareallmenofsocietyandmenoftheworld，whokeepupwithiteverywhere。Thereismanyapleasantstoryandmanyagoodjoke，andeverythingdiscussedbutpolitics，which，asSirRobertandMacaulaybelongtooppositedynasties，mightbedangerousground。

AfterdinnerwewentalittlebeforetentoLadyCharlotteLindsay’s。ShecamelastweektosaythatshewastohavealittledinneronMondayandwishedustocomeinafterwards。Thisisuniversalhere，andistheeasiestandmostagreeableformofsociety。ShehadLordBroughamandColonelandMrs。Dawson—Damer，etc。，todine……Mrs。Damerwishedustocomethenexteveningtoherinthesameway，justtogetourcupoftea。ThesenicelittleteasarewhatyouneedinBoston。Thereisnosupper，noexpense，nothingbutsociety。Mrs。DameristhegranddaughterofthebeautifulLadyWaldegrave，thenieceofHoraceWalpole，whomarriedtheDukeofGloucester。ShewasleftanorphanatayearoldandwasconfidedbyhermothertothecareofMrs。Fitzherbert。

ShelivedwithheruntilhermarriageandwasagreatpetofGeorgeIV，andtellsagreatmanyinterestingstoriesofhimandMrs。

Fitzherbert，whowasfiveyearsolderthanhe。