Fromyou，mydearBasil，theconfidantofmyhopestowardNoto，I
knowImaylookforsympathynowthatmyadvanceshavemetwithsuchhappyissue，howeverincompletebemyaccount。AndsoIaskyoutobemybestmaninthematterbeforetheworld。
Everyours，PercivalLowell。
BasilHallChamberlain，Esq。
Contents。
I。AnUnknown。
II。OffandOn。
III。TheUsuiPass。
IV。Zenkoji。
V。No。
VI。OnaNewCorniceRoad。
VII。OyaShiradzu，KoShiradzu。
VIII。AcrosstheEtchiuDelta。
IX。OvertheArayamaPass。
X。AnInlandSea。
XI。Anamidzu。
XII。AtSeaAgain。
XIII。OntheNotoHighway。
XIV。TheHarinokiToge。
XV。TowardthePass。
XVI。Riuzanjita。
XVII。OvertheSnow。
XVIII。AGenialInkyo。
XIX。OurPassportandtheBasha。
XX。DowntheTenriugawa。
XXI。TotheSea。
NOTO：anunexploredcornerofJapan。
I。AnUnknown。
ThefancytookmetogotoNoto。
Itseemedastrangefancytomyfriends。
YetImakenoapologyforit;foritwasacaseofloveatfirstsight。
Scanning，oneevening，inTokyo，themapofJapan，inavague，itineraryway，withthelookonefirstgivestothecrowdoffacesinaballroom，myeyewascaughtbytheposeofaprovincethatstoodoutingraphicmysteryfromthewesterncoast。Itmadeastrikingfigurethere，withitsdeep-bosomedbaysanditsboldheadlands。Itsname，itappeared，wasNoto;andthenametoopleasedme。Ilikeditsvowelcolor;Ilikeditsconsonantform，theliquidnandthedecisivet。
Whimsically，ifyouplease，itsuggestedbothwomanlinessandwill。
ThemoreIlookedthemoreIlonged，untilthedesirecarriedmenotsimplyoffmyfeet，butontothem。
Nobodyseemedtoknowmuchaboutmyinamorata。Indeed，thoseIaskedaskedme，intheirownwantofinformation，whyIwent，andwhattherewastosee：ofwhichquestions，theseconditselfdidforanswertothefirst。WhynotinfacthavesetmyheartongoingtoNotojustbecauseitwasnotknown！Notthatitiswelltobelievealltheunseentobemuchworththeseeing，butthatIhadanitchingsoletotreadwhatothershadnotalreadyeffacinglybetrodden。
Privately，Iwasdelightedwiththegenerallackofknowledgeonthesubject。Itservedadmirablytoputmeinconceitwithmychoice;
althoughIwillownIwasratheratalosstoaccountforit，andI
canonlyexplainitnowbythefactthattheplacewassooutoftheway，andnotveryunlikeothers，afterall。Beingthuscandid，I
oughtperhapstogoastepfartherandrenouncethename。But，onthetwogreatprinciplesthatthepursuitisitselftheprizeandthatthemeansjustifiestheend，Iprefertokeepit。Fortherewasmuchofinteresttomebytheway;andIclingtothenameoutofakindofloyaltytomyownfancy。IliketothinkthatXenophonfeltasmuchinhisAnabasis，thoughbutonebookoutofsevendealswiththegoingup，theothersixbeingoccupiedwiththegettingsafelyawayagain。ItisnottoldthatXenophonregrettedhisadventure。
CertainlyIamnotsorryIwasweddedtomyidea。
TomostofmyacquaintanceNotowasscarcelysomuchasaname，anditslocalhabitationwaspurelycartographic。Ifoundbutonemanwhohadbeenthere，andhehaddroppeddownuponit，bywayofharbor，fromaboat。Somesympatheticsouls，however，wentsofartowarditastoaskwhereitwas。
TothewestwardofTokyo，sofarwestthatthesettingsunnolongerseemstoloseitselfamongthemountains，butplungesforgoodandallstraightintotheshiningNirvanaofthesea，astrangelyshapedpromontorymakesoutfromtheland。ItistheprovinceofNoto，standingaloneinpeninsularisolation。
Itwaspartlyinthispositionthatthefascinationlay。Withdrawnfromitsfellows，withitsbacktotheland，itfacedthegloryofthewesternsky，asifinvirginalvisiongazingoutuponthedeep。
Doublywithdrawnisit，forthatthecoastfromwhichitstandsapartisitselfalmostunvisitedbyEuropeans，——anout-of-the-worldstate，inmarkedcontrasttotheshoreborderingthePacific，whichisnowacurbstoneonthegreatwaterwayroundtheearth，andincidentallymakesahappyparenthesisofpromenadeforthehastyglobe-trotter。
Theform，too，ofthepeninsulacameinforashareinitsattraction。
Itscoastlinewassocoquettishlyirregular。Ifitturneditsbackontheland，itstretcheditshandsouttothesea，onlytowithdrawthemagainthenextmoment，——adoubleinvitation。Indeed，thereisnohappierlinkingoflandtowater。Thenavigatorinsuchpartsbecomeshimselfadelightfullyamphibiouscreature，athomeinbothelements。Shouldhetireoftheone，hecanalwaystaketotheother。
Besides，suchfeaturesinacoastsuggestacertainclean-cutcharacterofprofile，——apromise，inJapanatleast，rarelyunkept。
Toreachthistopographicallycharmingprovince，themainislandhadtobecrossedatitswidest，and，owingtoloftymountainchains，muchtackingtobedonetoboot。Atmosphericallythedistanceisevengreaterthanafoot。Indeed，thechangeinclimateislikeachangeinzone;forthetrendofthemainislandatthispoint，beingnearlyeastandwest，givestotheonecoastasoutherlyexposure，andtotheotheranortherlyone，whilethehighestwallofpeaksinJapan，theHida-Shinshiurange，shutsoffmostmeteorologicalcommunication。LongafterTokyoisbaskinginspring，thewestcoaststillliesburiedindeepdriftsofsnow。
Itwasmymisfortunetogotothisout-of-the-wayspotalone。Iwasdulysensibleofmycommiserablestateattimes。Indeed，inthosestrangeflashesofdualconsciousnesswhenamanseeshisownconditionasifitwereanother’s，Ipitiedmyselfrightheartily;
forIholdthattravelislikelifeinthis，atleast，thatacongenialcompaniondividesthetroublesanddoublesthejoys。
Topleaseone’sselfissomuchharderthantobepleasedbyanother;
andwhenitcomestodoubtanddifficulty，therearedrawbackstobeingone’sownguide，philosopher，andfriend。Thetreatmentistoohomoeopathicbyhalf。
AnexcuseforacompanionexistedinthepersonofmyJapaneseboy，orcook。Hehadbeenboytomeyearsbefore;andonthisreturnofhisformermastertothelandoftheenlightened，hehadcomebacktohisallegiance，promotinghimselftothepostofcook。Duringthejourneyheactedinbothcapacitiesindifferently，——inonesense，notintheother。Inadditiontobeingcapablehewaswillingandofgreatendurance。Besides，hewaspassionatelyfondoftravel。
HeknewnomoreaboutNotothanI，andattimes，ontheroad，hecouldnotmakeoutwhatthecountryfolksaid，forthedifferenceindialect;
whichlackofspecialqualificationmuchincreasedhischarmasafellow-traveler。HeneitherspokenorunderstoodEnglish，ofcourse，andsurprisedme，aftersurprisinghimself，onthelastdaybutoneofourtrip，bycomingoutwiththewords\"allright。\"Hissurname，appropriatelyenough，meantmountain-rice-field，andhislastname——whichweshouldcallhisfirstname——wasYejiro，orlucky-younger-son。Besidescookingexcellentlywell，hemadepaperplumblossomsbeautifully，andonceconstructedastringtelephoneoutofhisownhead。Imentionthesesamplesofaccomplishmenttoshowthathewasnomeredabblerinpotsandpans。
Inadditiontohisvariousculinarycontrivanceswetookalargeandmotleystockofcannedfood，someofhisownhome-madebread，andabottleofwhiskey。Welaidinbutasmallsupplyofbeer;notthatIpurposedtoforegothatagreeablebeverage，butbecause，inthisEuropeanizedage，itcanbegotinallthelargertowns。Indeed，thebeerbrewedinYokohamato-dayrankswiththebestintheworld。
ItisingreatdemandinTokyo，whileitsimported，orprofessedlyimported，rivalshavefreelypercolatedintotheinterior，sopopularwiththeupperanduppermiddleclasseshavemaltliquorsbecome。
Nowadays，whenaJapanesethinkstogoinforCapuandissipationregardlessofexpense，hetreatshimselftoabottleofbeer。
Theselarder-likedetailsarenotmeanttoimplythatImadeagodofmypalate，butthatotherwisemydigestionwouldhaveplayedthedevilwithme。InJapan，toattempttoliveoffthecountryinthecountryisapieceofamateuractingtheaverageEuropeanbitterlyregretsaftertheplay，ifnotduringitsperformance。Wearenotinwardlycontrivedtothrivesolelyonriceandpickles。
Itisbest，too，forajourneyintotheinterior，totakewithyouyourownbedding;sheets，thatis，andblankets。ThebeditselfYejiroeasilyimprovisedoutofinnumerablefutons，asthequiltsusedatnightbytheJapanesearecalled。Asingleoneisenoughforanative，butYejiro，withpraiseworthyzeal，madeapracticeofaskingforhalf-a-dozen，whichhepiledoneupontheotherinthemiddleoftheroom。Eachhadaperceptiblethicknessandaroundedloglikeedge;andwhenthetimecameforturninginontopofthelot，IwasalwaysremindedofthelatterendofaGrecianhero，thestructurelookedsolikeafuneralpyre。Whentotheaboveindispensableswereaddedclothes，camera，dryplates，books，andsundries，itmadeacollectionofhouseholdgodsquiteappallingtoconsideronthemarch。IhadnoideaIownedhalfsomuchintheworldfromwhichitwouldpainmetobeparted。Asmypropertylayspreadoutforpacking，Istaredatitaghast。
Totransportallthesebelongings，nativeingenuitysuggestedathingcalledayanagigori;severalofthem，infact。Nowtheconstructionofakoriiselementallyingenious。Itconsistssimplyoftwowickerbaskets，ofthesameshape，butofslightlydifferentsize，fittingintoeachotherupsidedown。Thetwoarethentiedtogetherwithcord。
Thebeautyoftheidealiesinitsextension;forinproportionasthetwocoversarepulledoutorpushedhomewillthepairholdfromamaximumcapacityofbothtoaminimumcapacityofone。Itispossibleeventostartwithmorethanamaximum，ifthecontentsbesuchasarenotgiventofallingoutbytheway。Thecontrivanceissimplyinvaluablewhenitcomestotransportingfood;forthen，asyoueatyourwaydown，theobligingcoversshrinktomeetthevacuum。
Ifmorethanonekoribenecessary，aneasystepindevicesleadstoaseriesofgradedsizes。Thenallyourbasketseventuallycollapseintoone。
Thelastbutmostimportantarticleofallwasmypassport，whichcarefullydescribedmyproposedroute，andwhichYejiroatoncetookchargeofandcarriedaboutwithhimforimmediateservice;forawisepaternalgovernmentinsisteduponknowingmyintentionsbeforepermittingmetovisittheobjectofmychoice。
II。
OffandOn。
Itwasonthedaybutonebeforethefestivalofthefifthmoonthatwesetout，or，inEnglish，thethirdofMay;andthoseemblemsofgoodluck，thefestivalfishes，werealreadyswimmingintheairabovethehouseeaves，aswescurriedthroughthestreetsinjinrikishatowardtheUyenorailwaystation。Wehadbeenalittlebehindhandinstarting，butbyextraexertionsonthepartoftherunnerswesucceededinreachingthestationjustintimetobeshutoutbythegatekeeper。TimehavingbeentheonethingworthlessinoldJapan，itwastrulysarcasticoffatethatweshouldreachourfirstgoaltoolate。Asiftopointchagrin，thetrainstillstoodinwaiting。Remonstranceswiththewicketmanabouttheimportedfive-minuteregulation，orwhateveritwas，provedofnoavail。
Notonejotortittleoftherulewouldheyield，whichperhapswasnatural，inasmuchas，howeverwemighthavemanagedalone，ourcompanionsthebasketsnevercouldhaveboardedthetrainwithoutofficalhelp。Theintrinsicmeritsofthebaggagefailed，alas，toaffectitsmobility。Thenthetrainslowlydrewout。
Tobestoppedontheroadisthecommonlotoftravelers;buttobestoppedbeforeonehasfairlystartedisnothinglessthantobemockedat。Itisbest，however，totakesuchgibesingoodpart。
Viewingthesituationinthislight，theludicrousnessofthedisconnectionstruckmesoforciblyasverynearlytoconsolemeformyloss，whichwasnottrifling，sincethenexttraindidnotleaveforabovethreehours;toolatetopushonbeyondTakasakithatnight，athingIhadmostfirmlypurposedtodo。HereIwas，themiserablevictimofapunctualitymyownpeoplehadfoistedonalandonlytoohappywithoutit！Therewaspoeticjusticeinthesituation，afterall。
Besides，thecourseofone’strueloveshouldnotruntoosmooth。
Judiciousdifficultywhetsdesire。
Therewasnothingtoturntoonthespot，andIwasashamedtogohome。
ThenIopportunelyrememberedsomething。
Ihavealwaysthoughtwelimitedourpharmacopoeia。Weprescribepillsenoughforthebody，whileweleavethemindtolookafteritself。
Whyshouldnotthespiritalsohaveitsdraughtsandmixtures，properlylabeledanddispensed！Forexample，anglingappearstobeastrongmentalopiate。Ihaveseenotherwisenormalpeoplestupefiedbeyondexpressionwhenatthebuttofarodandline。Happeningtorecallthiseffect，Iinstantlyprescribedformyperturbedstateofmindagooddoseoffishing，tobetakenassuitedtheday。SoI
betookmedownaby-street，wheretheaerialcarppromisedthethickest，and，selectingahousewellplacedforaview，askedpermissiontomountupontheroof。Itchancedtobeacast-offclothingshop，alongwhosefrontsomefine，ifaged，garmentswerehungtocatchthepubliceye。ThecameraandIwereinducteduptheascentbytheowner，whilemyboots，ofcourse，waiteddog-likeintheporchbelow。
Thecitymadeaspectaclefromabove。Onallsidessuperbpapercarpfloatedtothebreeze，tuggingatthestringsthatheldthemtothepolesquiteafterthemanneroftherealfish。Onefeltasthough，byaccident，hehadsteppedintosomemammothglobeofgoldfish。
Thewholeskywasalivewiththem。Eightysquaremilesoffinnyfolkinsidethecity，andanuntoldcompanywithout。Thecounterfeitpresentmentswerefromfivetotenfeetlong，andpaintedtomimiclife。Thebreezeenteredatthemouthandpassedoutsomewhatlessfreelyatthetail，thuskeepingthemwellbelliedandconstantlyinmotion。Thewaytheyroseanddoveandturnedandwriggledwasworthyoffreewill。Indeed，theyhadeverylookofspontaneity，andlackedonlythethingitselftoturntheskyintoanocean，andTokyointoaseabottomwitharockeryofroof。Eachfishcommemoratesthebirthofaboyduringtheyear。Itwouldthusbepossibletotakeacensusoftheincreaseofthemalepopulationyearly，atthetriflingcostofscalingahousetop，——asetofstatisticsnotwithoutaneventualvalue。
Whilewewerestrollingback，YejiroandI，wecame，intheway，uponanotherspeciesoffish。Thebait，whichwaswelldesignedtocaptivate，badeforthemomenttoexceedeventheangler’santicipations。Itwasasortofun-Christmastreewithfishing-polebranches，fromwhichdangledarticulatedfigures，bodiedlikemen，butwithheadsoffoxes，tortoises，andotherlesslikelybeasts，——bewitchingobjectsinimpossibleevolutiontoabald-patedurchinwhostoodgazingatitwithallhissoul。Thepeddlersatwithhiseyesrivetedontheboy，visionsofapossiblecatchchasingthemselvesthroughhisbrain。Iwatchedhim，whilethecrowdbehindstaredatme。Wemadequiteatailofcuriosity。Theopiatewashavingitseffect;Ibegantofeelsoporificallycalm。ThenIwentuptotherestaurantintheparkandhadlunchasquietlyaspossible，infearoffriendlydiscovery。
Sufficientlypunctualpassengersbeingnowpermittedtoboardthenexttrain，Iensconcedmyselfinakindofparlorcompartment，which，fortunately，Icontinuedtohavealltomyself，andwassoonbeingrolledwestwardacrossthegreatMusashiplain，ruminating。Mychiefquarrelwithrailwayrulesis，Iaminclinedtothink，thattheypreachtothepublicwhattheyfailtopracticethemselves。Afterhavingdeniedmeapaltryfiveminutes’graceatthestation，theofficialsproceededtolosehalfanhourontheroadinamostexasperatingmanner。Ofcoursethedelaywasquiteexceptional。
Suchathinghadneverhappenedbefore，andwouldnothappenagain——tillthenexttime。Butthephenomenalcharacteroftheoccurrencefailedtoconsoleme，asitshouldnodoubthavedone。
Mydelay，too，wasexceptional——onthisline。NorwasIproperlymollifiedbyrepeatedoffersofhard-boiledeggs，cakes，andoranges，whichcertainenterprisingpeddlershawkedupanddowntheplatforms，whenwestopped，toarhythmicchantoftheirowninvention。
TheonlyconsolationlayinthememoryofwhattravelovertheMusashiplainusedtobebeforetrainshurriedone，orotherwise，intotheheartoftheland。Inthosedaysthejourneywasdoneinjinrikisha，andaquestionofdays，nothours，itwasinthedoing，——twodays’worthofbabycarriage，ofwhichthetediousnesslayneitherinthevehiclesnorintheway，butintheamountofboth。
Or，ifoneputcomparativespeedabovecomparativecomfort，herosebeforethelark，tobetorturedthroughasummer’sdayinabasha，orhorsevehicle，suitableonlyfordisembodiedspirits。Myjointsachedagainatthethought。Clearly，togrumblenowwastosinagainstproportion。
Besides，theweatherwasperfect：argosiesoffleecycloudsailingslowlyacrossadeepbluesky;abroadplaininallitsspringfreshnessofcolor，pickedouthereandtherewithfruittreessmotheredinblossom，andbearingonitsbosomthepassingshadowsofthecloudsabove;inthedistancethegraduallygrowingformsofthemountains，eachatfirststartingintolifeonlyasafaintwashofcolor，barelytobepartedfromtheskyitself，prickingupfromoutthehorizonoffield。Then，slowly，timedtoouradvance，thetintgatheredsubstance，grewintocontraststhat，deepeningminutebyminute，resolvedintodetail，untilatlastthewholestoodrevealedinallitsmajesty，foothill，shoulder，peak，onegrandchromaticrisefromgreentoblue。
Oneaftertheotherthepointscameoutthusalongthesouthernsky：
firstthesummitsbehindOme;thenBukosan，likesomesentinel，half-wayuptheplain’slongside;andthenrangebeyondrangestretchingtowardthewest。BehindBukosanpeepedCloud’sRest，theverysameoutlineinfaintertint，solikethedoublereflectionfromapaneofglassthatIhadtoshifttoanopenwindowtomakesureitwasnoillusion。ThentheNikkogroupbegantoshowontheright，andtheHarunamasstookforminfront;andastheyrosehigherandthesunbeamsslantedmore，gildingthemotesintheheavyafternoonair，theyrimmedtheplaininfrontintoonegreatbowloffairyeaudeviedeDantzic。Slowlyabovethemthesundippedtohissetting，straightahead，burnishingourpathaswepursuedintwolonglinesofflashingrailintothewest-northwest。Lowerhesank，luringuson，andloweryet，andthensuddenlydisappearedbeyondthebarrierofpeaks。
Thetraindrewup，panting。ItwasTakasaki，nowsteepedinsaffronafterglow。Theguardspassedalong，callingoutthenameandunfasteningthedoors。Everybodygotoutandshuffledoffontheirclogs。Thebaskets，Yejiro，andIfollowed，afteralittle，throughthegloaming。
Itwasnotfartotheinn。Itwasjustfarenough，atthathour，toputusinheartforahousing。Indeed，twilightisthetimeoftimestoarriveanywhere。Anyspot，beiteversohomely，seemshomelikethen。Theduskhassnatchedfromyouthesilentcompanionshipofnature，toleaveyoupoignantlyalone。Itisthehourwhenamandrawsclosertotheoneheloves，andthehourwhenmostheshrinksfromhimself，thoughhewantanothernear。Itisthentheraysofthehouselightswanderabroadandappeartobeckonthehouselessin;andthatmustbe，intruth，asorryhostelrytoseemsuchtohim。
EvenTakasakiborealookofwelcomealiketotheforeignandthenativestranger，whichwascertainlywonderfulforTakasaki。Theplaceusednottofancyforeigners，anditsinnsbandiedtheEuropeantraveleraboutlikeabaleofundesirablemerchandisewiththedutiesstilldue。Butnow，whatachange！Theinnkeepernotonlyreceivedus，butledthewayatoncetothebestroom，——aroominthesecondstoryofthefireproofstorehouseattheback，whichhehopedwouldbecomfortable。Comfortable！Theroomactuallyprofferedusatableandchairs。Noonewhohasnot，afteralongday’stramp，soughtinvaintoresthiswearybodyproppedupagainstasidebeaminaJapaneseinncanenterintothefeelingachairinspires，evenlongafterward，byrecollection。
IcannotsayIlovedTakasakiinformerdays。Wasitmyreceptionorwasitsentimentthatmademeseeitallnowthroughamistofglamour？
Unsuspectedbyus，thatatmosphereoftimetintseverything。Fewthingsbutlooklovelierseendownthevistaoftheyears。Indeed，sentimentisakindofreligion;orisitreligionthatisakindofsentiment？Botharesosubtlybusycanonizingthepast，andcrowningwithaureolesveryevery-daythingsaswellasveryordinarypeople。
Notmenalonetakeonasanctitywhentheyarenomore。
III。
TheUsuiPass。
Thefirstobjecttocatchmyeye，whentheshojiwerepushedapart，thenextmorning，wasastringoftheubiquitouspaperfish，danglinglimpinthemotionlessMayairfromapoleinaneighboringyard;
highlysuggestiveofhavingjustbeencaughtforbreakfast。Thesightwouldhavebeenpainfullypropheticbutforthefoodwehadbroughtwithus;for，ofallmeals，aJapanesebreakfastisthemostcold，themostwatery，andthemostgenerallyfishyintheworld。
Asitwas，breakfastconsistedofpatheticcopiesofconsecratedoriginals。Itmighthavebeenexcellentbutforthecannedmilk。
Nodoubttherearepersonswhoarefondofcannedmilk;but，formypart，Iloatheit。Theeffectofthesweetishglueuponmyinnermanissingularlynauseating。Ihaveevenbeendriventodrinkmymatutinalcoffeeinallitsafter-dinnerstrengthratherthanadulterateitwiththemixture。Youhave，itistrue，thechoiceofusingthestuffasadubiouspaste，orofmixingitwithwaterintoanon-committalwash;and，whicheverplanyouadopt，youwishyouhadadoptedtheother。Whyitneedbesounpalatablycloyingisnotcleartomymind。Theytellmethesugarisneededtopreservethemilk。Inevercouldmakeoutthatitpreservedanythingbutthesugar。Simplytoseethestuffoozeoutoftheholeinthecanisdeterrent。Itisenoughtomakeonethinkseriouslyattimesofaddingagoodmilchcowtohisalreadyampletripencumberment，atthecertaincostofdelayingthemarch，andthenotimprobablechanceofbeingtakenforanescapedlunatic。Indeed，totheJapanesemind，tobeseensolemnlyprecedingacaravanofcattleforpurposesofdietwouldcertainlysuggestinsanity。ForcowsinJapanarenevermilked。Dairyproducts，consequently，arenottobehadontheroad，andthemanwhofanciesmilk，butter，orcheesemusttakethemwithhim。
ItusedtobethesameinTokyo，butintheselatterdaysadairyhasbeenstartedatHakone，whichsuppliesfreshbuttertosuchTokyoitesaslikeit。Oneofmyfriends，whohadbeenmanyyearsfromhome，wasmuchtakenwiththenewprivilege，andcalledmyattentiontoitwithsomepride。Theresultwasacolorlesslardysubstancethatlookedlikepooroleomargarine（notlikegoodoleomargarine，forthatlookslikebutter），butwhichwasheldinhighesteem，nevertheless。
Myfriend，indeed，seriouslymaintainedtomeoncethatsuchwastheusualcoloroffreshbutter，andinsistedthattheyellowhuecommonelsewheremustbetheresultofdyes。Hewassopositiveonthepointthathealmostpersuadedme，untilIhadlefthimandreasonreturned。Ittookmesometimetorecoverfromthepathosofthething：amansolongdeprivedofthatsimpleluxurythathehadquiteforgottenhowitlooked，andasetofcowsutterlyincapable，fromdesuetude，ofproducingitproperly。
AfterIhaddulyswallowedasmuchasIcouldofthedoubtfuldosesupposedtobecafeaulait，thecanswerepackedupagain，andweissuedfromtheinntowalkastone’sthrowtothetrain。
Takasakistandswelltowardtheupperendoftheplain，justbelowwherethemainbodyofitthrustsitsarmsoutintothehills。
Uponeoftheseweweresoonwending。Everyminutethepeakscamenearer，frowningatusfromtheircrumblingvolcaniccrags。Atlasttheyclosedincompletely，standingroundaboutinthreateningpinnacles，andbarringthewayinfront。Atthis，thetrain，contrarytotheusualpracticeoftrainsinsuchseeminglyimpassableplaces，timidlydrewup。
Intruth，therailwaycomestoanendatthefootoftheUsuitoge（toge，meaning\"pass\"），afterhavingwanderedup，withmorezealthandiscretion，intoaholelesspocket。Suchuntimelyendwasfarfromtheoriginalintention;forthelinewasmeantforathroughlinealongtheNakasendofromTokyotoKioto，andgreatthingswereexpectedofit。Buttheengineeringdifficultiesatthispoint，andstillmoreattheWadatoge，alittlefartheron，provingtoogreat，theprojectwasabandoned，andthethroughlinebuiltalongtheTokaidoinstead。Theidea，however，hadgottoomuchheadwaytobestayed。SoitsimplyjumpedtheUsuitoge，rolleddowntheShinanovalley，climbedanotherdivide，andcameout，atlast，ontheseaofJapan。
ThehiatuscausedbytheUsuipassisgotoverbyahorserailroad！
Somehow，themereideaseemedcomic。AhorserailroadintheheartofJapanoverapassamilehigh！TohavesuddenlycomeupontheentireComedieFrancaisegivingperformancesinateahouseatthetopcouldhardlyhavebeenmoresurprising。Thehumorofthethingwasnotawhitlessenedbyitslooks。
Tobeginwith，thecarswerefairlynatural。Thiswasamasterlystrokeincaricature，sinceitfurnishedthenecessaryfoiltoallthatfollowed。Theywerenot，tomyeye，ofanyknownspecies，but，withtheexceptionofbeingevidentlyusedtohardlines，theylookedenoughliketramstopassassuch。Insidesat，inallseriousness，awonderfulcagefulofJapanese。Tosaythattheywerenottothehorse-carbornconveysbutafeeblenotionoftheirunnaturalness。
Theywerepropped，ratherthanseated，boltupright，withadecorumwhichwouldhavedonemorethancredittoafuneral。Theydidnotsmile;theydidnotevenstir，excepttoscrewtheirheadsroundtostareatme。Theyweredummiespureandsimple，andmaypassfortheseconditemintheproperties。
Therealpersonnelbeganwiththehorses。Thesewereverysorry-lookinganimals，buttoughenoughadmirablytopullthroughtheperformance。
Managingthemwithsomedifficultystoodthedriveronthefrontplatform，arrayedinabottle-greenlivery，withastiffmilitarycapwhichgavehimthecombinedlookofaGermanofficerandofamusicianfromastreetband。Hisenergywasspentinmakingaboutthreetimesasmuchworkforhimselfaswasneeded。Onthetailofthecarrodetheguard，alsonotablyappareled，whoseimportanceoutdidevenhisuniform。Hehadtheadvantageofthedriverinthematterofasecond-classfish-horn，uponwhichhetootedvigorouslywheneverhethoughtofit;andhewasnotaforgetfulman。
ComedieFrancaise，indeed！Why，hereitallwasinJapanesefarce！
Fromthepassivityofthepassengerstothepantomimeofthedriverandguard，itcouldhardlyhavebeendonebetter;andtheactorsallkepttheircountenances，too，insuchasurprisingmanner。
Acaptiouscriticmighthavesuggestedthattheylookedathoughttoomuchattheaudience;but，onthewhole，Ithinkthatratheraddedtotheeffect。Atallevents，theywereexcellentlygood，especiallytheguard，whoseconsequentialairscouldnothavebeenhappieriftheyhadbeenstudiedforyears。
Therewasnoendofredtapeaboutthecompany。Thoughthecarsweresometimeinstarting，sothatIgotwellaheadofthem，theycouldnotadmitmeontheroad，whenmybaggagekurumaturnedouttobetooslow，becauseIhadnotboughtaticketattheoffice。SoIwasobligedtocontinuetotrampafoot，solacingmyselfwithshortcuts，bywhichIgainedonthem，tomysatisfaction，andbywhichIgainedstillmoreonmyownbaggage，tomydisgust，inthatIceasedtobenearenoughtohastenit。
Ihadtowaitforthelatteratthepartingoftheways;forthetramhadabrand-newserpentinetracklaidoutforit，whiletheoldtrailatthispointstruckuptotheright，comingouteventuallyatashrinethatcrownedthesummitofthepass。Horse-railroadsnotbeingasnewtomeastotheJapanese，Ipiouslychosethenarrowwayleadingtothetemple，tothelingeringregretofthebaggagetrundlers，whoturnedsorryeyesdownupontheeasiersecularroadateverybendinourown。
AJapanesepasshasonefeaturewhichisinvariable：itisalwayslongerthanyouthinkitisgoingtobe。Ican，ofmyownexperience，recallbuttwoexceptionstothisdistressingfamilylikeness，bothofwhichwereoccasionsofcompanywhichnodoubtforbadeproperappreciationoftheirlength，andvitiatesthemasscientificobservations。WhentoilingupatogeIhavebeentemptedtoimputeacuteascentomaniatotheJapanesemind，butsobersecondthoughthasattributedthisinferencetoanoverheatedimagination。
Itseemsnecessary，therefore，tolaytheblameontheland，which，likesomepeople，isdeceptivefromveryexcessofuprightness。
Thereissomuchmoresoilthancanpossiblybegotinbysimpledirectnessofpurpose，orevenbyone，moreorlessrespectable，slope。
Itwascoldenoughatthesummittocoolanything，imaginaryorotherwise。Evendevotionshivered，as，indutybound，itadmiredthevenerabletempleanditsyetmorevenerabletree。Theroofsofthechaletsstoodweightedwithrockstokeepthemthere，andthetree，raisedaloftonitsstone-girdedparapet，stretchedbarebranchesimploringlytowardthesky。Somuchforbeingamileorsonearerheaven，whilestilloftheearthandearthy。
Half-waydownthedescent，Asamayamacameoutfrombehindthebrowofahill，sendinghiswhiffsofsmokedreamilyintotheair;andalittlelowerstill，beyondaprojectingspurontheoppositeside，thetrainappeared，waitingintheplain，withitsenginepuffingasortofantiphonalresponse。Thestationstoodatthefootofthetramway，whichtumbledtoitafterthemannerofacascadeoverwhatlookedtobeamuchlowerpass，thusapparentlysupportingthetheoryof\"supererogatoryclimb。\"Thebaggagepassedon，andYejiroandI
followedleisurely，admiringtheview。
Eithertheoldtrailfailedtoconnectwiththerailwayterminus，whichIsuspect，orelsewemissedthepath，forwehadtosupplyalinkourselves。Thisresultedinawoefullybadcutacrossasomethingbetweenamoorandabog，supposedtobedrainedbyditches，mostofwhichlayatrightanglestoourcourse。Wewerenotmuchhelped，half-wayover，byakindlyintentionedporter，whodawneduponussuddenlyinthedistance，rushingexcitedlyoutfrombehindtheplatform，gesticulatinginastartlingwayandshoutingthattimewasup。Wemadewhatsorryspeedwaspossibleunderthecircumstances，gettingveryhotfromexertion，andhotterstillfromanxiety，andthenwaitedimpatientlytengoodminutesinourseatsintherailwaycarriageforthetraintostart。IforgetwhetherI
tippedthatwell-meaningbutmisguidedman。
Thetramcontingenthadalreadyarrived，——hadinfactfinishedfeedingatthemanymushroomteahousesgatheredaboutthestation，——
andwerenowbusyfindingthemselvesseats。Theirbustlewasmostpleasingtowitness，tillsuddenlyIdiscoveredthattherewerenofirst-classcarriages;thatitwasmyseat，sotospeak，forwhichtheywerescrambling。Thechoice，itappeared，beganwithsecond-classcoaches，doomedthereforetobedoublypopular。
Second-classaccommodation，bynomeansmerelynominal，wasevidentlytheheightofluxurytothepatronsofthecountryhalfofthisdisjointedline，whichstartssoseductivelyfromTokyo。Greatercomfortisstrictlyconfinedtothemoremetropolitanportion。
Thesecond-classcoacheshadofcoursethemeritofbeingcheaper，butthiswasmorethanoffsetbythefactthatinplaceofpanesofglasstheirwindowshadslatsofwoodwithwhitecottonstretchedoverthem，——aningeniouscontrivanceforshuttingouttheviewandagoodbitofthelight，bothofwhicharepleasing，andforlettinginthecold，whichisnot。
\"Ifyougowiththecrowd，youwillbetakencareof，\"asashrewdfinancierofmyacquaintanceusedtosayaboutstocks。Thisoccurredtomebywayofconsolation，astheguardlockedusintothecarriage，intheapprovedpaternalgovernmentstyle。Fortunatelythelocking-inwasmoreapparentthanreal，foritconsistedsolelyintheturningofabar，whichitwasquitepossibletounturn，asalltravelersinrailwaycoachesareaware，bydroppingthewindowintoitsoublietteandstretchingthearmwelldownoutside，——atrickofwhichIdidnotscrupletoavailmyself。Myfellow-passengerstheJapanesewerefartoodecoroustoattemptanythingofthekind，whichcompelledmetodososurreptitiously，likeonewhocommittethacrime。
Thesefellow-passengersfullymadeupfortheroomtheytookbytheirvalueasscientificspecimens。Iwouldwillinglyhavechloroformedthemall，andpresentedthemonpinstosomesartorialmuseum;
foreachtypifiedastageinacertainuniqueprocessofevolution，atpresenttheJapanesecraze。Theywerejustsomanysamplesofunnaturaldevelopmentindress，fromthenativeJapanesetotheimitatedEuropean。Thecostumeusuallybeganwithapot-hatandendedinextremecaseswithcongressboots。Buteachmanexhibitedavariousphaseofitaccordingtohisself-emancipationfromformeretiquette。SometimesamostdisreputableDerby，painfullyreminiscentofbetterbygonedays，founditselfincompanywitharefinedkimonoandaspotlessclovensock。Sometimesthemetamorphosisembracedthebody，andevenextendeddownthelegs，buthadnotyetattackedthefeet，initscreepingparalysisofimitation。Inanothercorner，acollarless，cravatlesssemiflannelshirthadtakentheplaceoftheundertunic，totheworsethanlossoflooksofitswearer。Oppositethistypesatthesupremevarietywhichevidentlyprideditselfuponitsheightoffashion。InhimthechangehadgonesofarastorecalltheEastEndroughallover，anillusiondispelledonlybytheinnocenceofhisface。
Whilestillbusypigeonholingmyspecimens，Ichancedtolookthroughtheopenwindow，andsuddenlysawpassby，asintheshiftingbackgroundofsomescenicplay，thelichenveiledstonewallsandlotus-mantledmoatsoftheoldfeudalcastleofUyeda。Poor，neglected，despisedbitofdaysgoneby！——daysthatarebutyesterdays，aeonssinceasmeasuredhere。Alreadyitwasdisappearingdownthelongperspectiveofthepast;andyetonlytwentyyearsbeforeithadstoodinalltheprideandgloryoftheMiddleAges。ThenithadbeenAdaimyo’scastle，wontofoldtowieldAcrossthecheckerboardofpaddyfieldArook-likepowerfromitsvantagesquareOnpawnsofhamlets;nowaruin，there，ItstriplebattlementsgazegrimlydownUponanew-begottenbustlingtown，Onlytoseeself-mirroredintheirmoatAniviedimagewherethelotusfloat。
Somesubtlesenseoffitnesswithinmewastouchedasitmighthavebeenanerve;andinstantlythemotleycrewinsidethecarbecamenotmerelycomic，butshocking。Itseemedunseemly，thisshufflingoffthestageofthetragicoldbythefarce-likenew。Howeverlittleonemaymournthedead，somethingforbidsaharlequinadeovertheirgraves。Theveryprincipleofcosmiccontinuityhasadecencyaboutit。Natureholdswithonehandtothepastevenasshegraspsatthefuturewiththeother。Somereligionsconsecratebythelayingonofhands;Natureneverwithdrawshertouch。
IV。
Zenkoji。
Wewerenowcomemorethanhalf-wayfromseatosea，andwewerestillinthethickofEuropeanization。Sofarwehadtraveledinthetrackofthecomic。ForifJapanseemsoddforwhatitis，itseemsodderforwhatitisnolonger。
OneofthethingswhichimitationofWesternwaysisannihilatingisdistance。Japan，liketherestoftheworld，isshrinking。Thiswasstrikinglybroughthomethatafternoon。Afewshorthoursofshiftingpanorama，avaryingforegroundofvalleythatnarrowedorwidenedliketheflowofthestreamthathadmadeit，peaksthatopenedandshutononeanotherlikethechangingfliesinsomespectacularplay，andwehadcompassedtwodays’worthofold-timetravelwhenamanmadeeveryfootofgroundhisown，andweredrawingnearZenkoji。
Iwasgladtobethere;hardlyasgladtobetheresosoon。
Therearelandsmadetobeskimmed，tamesamenessesofplainorwearywastesofdesert，whereeventheironhorsegallopstooslow。Japanisnotoneofthem。AlandwhichNatureherselfhasalreadycrumpledintoitssmallestcompass，andthencoveredwithvegetationrichasvelvet，isnolandtohurryover。Onemaywelllingerwhereeachmilebuildsthesceneryafresh。Andinthisworld，whosecivilizationgrowsattheexpenseofthepicturesque，itissomethingtoseeaculturethatknowshowleasttomar。
Uponthismoodofunsatisfiedsatisfactionmynightfell，andshortlyafterthetrainrolledintotheZenkojistation，amidadarknessdeepenedbyfallingrain。Thepassengersbundledout。Thestationlookedcheerlessenough。Butfromacrosstheopenspaceinfrontshoneagalaxyoflight。Acrowdoftea-housespostedonthefarthersidehadgarlandedthemselvesalloverwithlanterns，eachtryingtooutvieitsneighborinapparenthospitality。Thedisplaywasperceptiblyofpecuniaryintent;butstillitwasgrateful。Tobethoughtworthcatchingpartakes，afterall，ofthenatureofacompliment。Whatwasnotsogratifyingwastheembarrassmentofchoicethatfollowed;foreachofthesegaylybeckoningcaravansariesprovedtobeacatch-pilgrimforitsinnup-town。Beingonahill，Zenkojiisnotbywayofeasyapproachbytrain;andthepilgrimstoitarelegion。Inorder，therefore，toanticipatethepatronageofunworthyrivals，eachinnhasfeltobligedtobepersonallyrepresentedonthespot。
TheoneforwhichminehostofTakasakihad，withhisblessing，mademeanoteturnedoutsopoorlyprefacedthatIhesitated。
Theextremezealonthepartofitsproprietortobookmemademestillmoredoubtful。So，sendingYejiroofftoscout，Iwalkedtoandfro，waiting。Ididnotdaresitdownonthesillofanyofthebooths，forfearofcommittingmyself。
Whilehewasstillawaysearchingvainlyfortheproperinn，thelightsweresuddenlyallputout。Atthesamefatalmomentthejinrikisha，ofwhichaminutebeforetherehadseemedtobeplenty，allmysteriouslyvanished。Byonefellstroketherewasnolongereitherendinsightnorvisiblemeansofreachingit。
\"InthestreetofbyandbyStandsthehostelryofnever，\"
asarondelofHenley’shathit;butnoteveryonehasthechancetoseetheSpanishproverbsoliterallyfulfilled。Therewewere——nowhere。
IthinkIneversufferedabittererchangeofmoodinmylife。
Atlast，aftersomepainfulgropinginthedark，andrepeatedresolvestoproceedonfoottothetownandsummonhelp，Ichancedtostumbleuponastraykuruma，whichhadincautiouslyreturned，undercoverofthedarkness，tothesceneofitsearlierexploits。Isecureditonthespot，andbyitwastrundledacrossabitoftheplainandupthelonghillcrownedbythetown，tothepleasingjingleofachimeofringshungsomewhereoutofsightbeneaththebodyofthevehicle。
Whenthetrundleraskedwheretodropme，Igaveataventurethenamethatsoundedthebest，onlytobesureofhavingguessedawrywhenhedrewupbeforetheinnitdesignated。Theexistenceofabetterwaslegibleonthefaceofit。Wepushedon。
Happilythehostelriesweremostlyinonequarter，thebettertokeepaneyeononeanother;forinthecourseofthenexttenminutesI
supposewevisitednearlyeveryinnintheplace。Thechoicewasnotawhitfurtheredbythechangefromtheoutpoststotheoriginals。
Atlast，however，Igotsofarindecisionastopulloffmyboots，——anactelsewhereaswell，Ibelieve，consideredanacquiescenceinfate，——andsufferedmyselftobeledthroughthehouse，alongtheindoorpiazzaofpolishedboardexceedingslippery，upseveralbreakneck，ladder-likestairwaysevenmorepolishedandfrictionless，roundsomecornersdarkasadimandon（afeebletallowcandleblindedbyapaperbox），placedsoasnottolighttheturn，couldmakethem，untilfinallyweemergedonthethirdstory，aheightthatitselfspokeforthesuperiorityoftheinn，andIwasusheredintowhatmybewilderedfancyinstantlypicturedamediaevalbanquetinghall。ItconjureduptheideaonwhatImustowntohavebeeninsufficientgrounds，namely，aplaindealtableandasetofquestionablymade，thoughrathergaudilyupholsteredchairs。
Butchairs，inalandwhosepeoplehavefromtimeimmemorialfoundtheirownfeetquitegoodenoughtositon，weresounexpectedaluxury，evenafterourTakasakiexperience，thattheymaybepardonedforsuggestinganyflightoffancy。
Thesamemightformerlyhavebeensaidoftheilluminationnextintroduced。Now，however，commonkerosenelampsarenolongersomuchofasighteveninJapan。Indeed，Ihadtheassurancetoaskforashadetogowiththeonetheysetonthetableinalltheglaringnudityofaplainchimney。Thistherewassomedifficultyinfinding，thesearchresultinginagreenpapervisormuchtoosmall，thatsatonaskewjustfarenoughnottohidethelight。TheJapanesecalleditahat，withouttheleastintentionofhumor。
Bythelightthusgiventheroomstoodrevealed，aneyrie，encasedonallsidesexcepttheoneofapproachbyshojionly。Intothesehadbeenletabeltofglasseighteenincheswideallthewayroundtheroom，attheheightatwhichapersonsittingonthematscouldseeout。ItismuchthefashionnowthustograftaWesternwindowuponaFar-Easternwall。Theideaisingeniousandeconomical，andhasbuttwodrawbacks，——thatyoufeelexcessivelyindoorsifyoustandup，andstrangelyout-of-doorsifyousitdown。
Ipushedthepanelsapart，andsteppedoutuponthenarrowbalcony。
Belowmelaythestreet，thelanternsofthepassers-byflittinglikefirefliesthroughthedark;andfromitstoleuptomethehumofpleasurelife，aperfumeofsound，strangelydistinctinthestillnightair。
Accreditedpilgrimthoughonebenot，topassbysofamousashrineasZenkojiwithoutthetributeofathoughtweretobemoreorlessthanhuman，eventhoughonehavepaidhisdevoirsbefore。SoughteveryyearbythousandsfromallpartsofJapan，itservesbuttomakethepilgrimageseemfinerthatthebourneitselfshouldnotbefine。Largeandcuriousarchitecturallyforitsroof，thetempleisotherwiseaveryordinarystructure，morethanordinarilybesoiled。
Thereisnothingrichaboutit;notmuchthatisimposing。Yetinspiteofpovertyanddirtitspeakswithacertaingrandeurtotheheart。Trueshrine，whoseodorofsanctityisaswidespreadasthebreezethatwandersthroughitsopenportals，andwhichcomessonearthewantsoftheworldthattheverypigeonsflutterintohomesamongitsrafters。Theair-beatsoftheirwingsheightenthehushtheywouldseemtobreak，andonlyenhancethesacredquietofthenave，——astillnesssuchthatthecoppersofthefaithfulfallwithexaggeratedringthroughthelatticeofthealmsbox，whiletheswiftlymumbledprayersofthegiversriseinallsimplicitystraighttoheaven。
Inandaboutthecourtyardlivethesacreddoves，andhewhowillmayhavetheircompanyforthespreadingofafeastofcrumbs。Andtherushoftheirwings，astheydescendtohimfromthesky，seemslikedrawingsomestrangebenedictiondown。
V。
No。
Myqueststillcarryingmewestwardalongthelineofthenewrailway，Itookthetrainagain，andinthecompartmentofthecarriageIfoundtwoothertravelers。TheywereatypicalJapanesecoupleinmiddlelife，andinsomethingabovemiddlecircumstances。HeaffectedEuropeanclothesinpart，whileshestillclungtothecostumeofherancestors。Bothweresmoking，——sheherlittlepipe，andhethefashionablecigarette。Theirmutualrelationswerethoseofsubstancetoshadow。Shefollowedhiminevitably，andhetrodonherfeelingsregardlessofthem。Shehadbeenprettywhenhetookhertowife，andthoughwornandwitheredshewashappystill。Asforhim，hewasquitesatisfiedwithher，ashewouldhavebeenquitesatisfiedwithouther。
TheroadbedsoonlefttheShinanoplain，acrosswhichpeeredtheoppositepeaks，stillhoodedwithsnow，andwoundupthroughanarrowvalley，toemergeatlastuponabroadplateau。Threemountainsflankedthefarthersideinfile，thelastandhighestofthethree，Myokosan，anextinctvolcano;indeed，hardlymorethantheruinsofone。
Timehassochangeditsshape，andthesnowwhitensitsheadsoreverently，itwouldbepossibletopassitbywithoutasuspicionofitswildyouth。Fromtheplateauitroseproudlyinonelongsweepfrommoortoshoulder，fromshouldertocrag，fromcragtosnow，upintotheleadensky，highintoitssecondmileofair。Subtlythecurvecarriedfancywithit，andIfoundmyselfinmindslowlypickingmywayupward，threadinganaretehereandscalingaslopethere，withallthefeelingsofagenuineclimb。WhileIwasstillascendinginthisinsubstantialmanner，cloudsfelluponthesummitfromthesky，andfromthesummittumbleddowntheravinesintothevalley，andmetmeatNaoyetsuinadrizzlingrain。
Naoyetsuisnotanenliveningspottobelandedatinastressofweather;hardlysatisfactory，infact，forthelengthoftimeneededtohirejinrikisha。Itconsistedoriginallyofastringoffishermen’shutsalongthesea。Tothesethebuildingoftherailwayhascontributedaparallelrowofreceptionbooths，ahundredyardsin-shore;andtowhichofthetwofilestoawardthepalmforcheerlessnessitwouldbehardtoknow。Thehutsaregoodofakindwhichispoor，andtheboothsarepoorofakindwhichisgood。
Todecidebetweensuchrivalsisamatterofmood。Formypart，Ihastedtobegoneinajinrikisha，itselfnotanover-cheerfulconveyanceinapour。
Therainshutoutthedistance，andthehoodandoil-paperaproneclipsedtheforeground。Thelosswasnotgreat，tojudgebywhatspecimensoftheviewIcaughtatintervals。Thelandscapewasageometricpatterninpaddyfields。These，asyetunplanted，wereswimminginwater，outofwhichstuckthestumpsoflastyear’scrop。
Itwasatearfulsight。Fortunatelytheroadsoonrosesuperiortoit，passedthroughacutting，andcameoutunexpectedlyabovethesea，——amosthomesicksea，veiledinrain-mist，itselfadishearteningdrab。Thecuttingwhichusheredussomewhatproudlyuponthisinhospitableoutlookprovedtobethebeginningofapasssixtymileslong，betweentheHida-ShinshiumountainsandtheseaofJapan。
Iwasnowtoberewardedformyventureinanunlooked-forway;forI
foundmyselfintroducedheretoastretchofcoastworthgoingmanymilestosee。
TheprovincesofHidaandEtchiuarecutofffromtherestofJapanbysetsofmountainranges，impassablethroughoutalmosttheirwholelength。Sobentonbarringthewayarethechainsthat，notcontentwithdoingsoinmid-course，theyallbutshutitattheiroceanend;
fortheyfallinalltheirentiretyplumbintothesea。Followingoneanotherforadistanceofsixtymiles，rangeafterrangetakesthusitsheaderintothedeep。Theonlylevelspotsarethedeltasdepositedbythestreamsbetweentheparallelsofpeak。Butthesearefarbetween。Mostofthewaytheroadbeltsthecliffs，nowneartheirbase，nowcutintotheprecipicehundredsoffeetabovethetide。Theroadisonecontinuousobservationpoint。Alongitourjinrikishabowled。Inspiteoftherain，theviewhadagrandeurthatcompensatedformuchdiscomfort。Itwas，moreover，amplydiversified。Nowwerushedouttothetipofsomehighcape，nowweswungroundintothecurveofthenextbay;nowwewoundslowlyupward，nowweslippedmerrilydown。Theheadlandswereendless，andeachgaveusaseascapedifferingfromtheonewefoldedoutofsightbehind;andafringeoffoam，curvingwiththecoast，stretchedlikearibbonbeforeustomarktheway。
WehaltedforthenightatafishingvillagecalledNo：twolinesofhouseshuggingthemountainside，andasinglelineofboatsdrawnup，sternon，uponthestrand;thedayandnightdomicilesoftheamphibiousstripofhumanity，indomestictiff，turningtheirbackstooneanother，astone’sthrowapart。Asourkurumamenknewtheplace，whilewedidnot，weletthemchoosetheinn。Theypulledupatwhatcausedmeashudder。Ithought，ifthiswasthebestinn，whatmusttheworstbelike！However，Ibowedmyheadtofateintheformofarafterlintel，andpassedin。Adimlight，whichcameinpartfromaholeinthefloor，andinpartfromanineffectivelamp，revealedalofty，grotto-likeinterior。Overtheholehungasortofwitches’caldron，swungbyasetofironbarsfromtheshadowyformofasoot-begrimedrafter。Aroundthekettlecrouchedacircleofgnomes。
Ourentrancecausedastir，outofwhichoneofthegnomescameforward，bowingtotheground。Whenhehadliftedhimselfupenoughtobeseen，heturnedoutquitehuman。Heinstantlybustledtofetchanotherlight，andstartedtoleadthestrangersacrosstheusualslipperysillandupthenearlyperpendicularstairs。WhyIwasnotperpetuallyfallingdownthesesamestairways，orslidinggracefullyorotherwiseoffthecorridorsinaheap，willalwaysbeamysterytome。Yet，withtheunimportantexceptionofsittingdownoccasionallytoputonmyboots，somewhatharderthanImeant，Irememberfewsuchmishaps。
Itwasnotthesurfacethatwasunwilling;fortheconstantscuffleofstockingfeethasgiventhepassagewaysapolishmahoganymightenvy。
Themanprovedanythingbutinhuman，andverymuchminehost。
Howcourteoushewas，andinwhatapleasedmindwiththeworld，evenitswhimsofweather，hiskindattentionsputme！Hereallydidsolittle，too。Besidenumberlessbowsandprofusepoliteness，hesimplylaidasmallandverythinquiltuponthematsformetositon，andputafeeblebrazierbymyside。Sofarasmerecomfortwent，thefirstactsavoredlargelyofsupererogation，asthematswerealreadyexquisitelyclean，andthesecondofinsufficiency，sincethebrazierservedonlytopointthecolditwaspowerlesstochase。Butthemannerofthedoingsocharmedthemindthatitalmostpersuadedthegrumblingbodyofcontent。
Asminehostbowedhimselfout，amaidbowedherselfin，withatrayofteaandsugar-plums，andagracethatbeggaredappreciation。
\"HisAugustnessiswellcome，\"shesaid，asshesankonherkneesandbowedherprettyheadtillittouchedthemats;andthevoicewasonlytoohumanforheaven。Unconsciouslyitmadethebetterpartofacaress。
\"WouldhisAugustnessdeigntotakesometea？Trulyhemustbeverytired;\"and，pouringoutacup，sheplaceditbesidemeasitmighthavebeensomebeautifulrite，andthenwithdrew，leavingme，besidethetea，theperfumeofapresence，thesensethatsomethingexquisitehadcomeandgone。
Isattherethinkingofherintheabstract，andwonderinghowmanymaidsoutsideJapanweredowriedwithlikegraceandthelikevoice。
Withsuchaoneforcupbearer，Icouldhavecontinuedtosiptea，I
thought，fortherestofmynatural，or，alas，unnaturalexistence。
ThereIstayed，squattingonmyfeetonthemats，admiringthemimicvolcanowhichintheorthodoxartisticwaythecharcoalwasarrangedtorepresent，andtryingmybesttowarmmyselfovertheidea。
Buttheideaprovedalmostascoldcomfortasthebrazieritself。
Thehigheraestheticpartofmewasinparadise，andthebodilyhalfsomewhereonthechillconfinesofouterspace。Thespotwouldnodoubthaveprovedwhollyheaventothatwittyindividualwhowassoanxioustoexchangethenecessitiesoflifeforacertaintyofitsluxuries。Forhere，accordingtoourschemeofthings，waseverythingonehadnorighttoexpect，andnothingthatonehad。MyEuropeanbelongingslookedverygrosslitteringthemats;andIseemedtomyselfaboorbesidetheunconsciousbreedingofthoseaboutme。
Yetitwasonlyapoorvillageinn，anditspeoplewerebutpeasants，afterall。
IponderedoverthisasIdinedinsolitarystate;andwhenIhadmountedmyfuneralpyreforthenight，IrememberromancingaboutitasIfellasleep。
Iwasstillaknight-errant，andtheprincesswassayingallmannerofcharmingthingstomeinherstillmorecharmingmanner，whenI
becameawarethatitwasthevoiceoftheeveningbeforewishingmegood-morning。Iopenedmyeyestoseeagoldengleamfloodingthestill-shutshoji，andadiamondglitterstealingthroughthecracksthatsettheblooddancinginmyveins。Then，withastartlingclatter，myprincessrolledthepanelsaside。
Windowsarebuthalf-wayshiftsatbest。Thetruegood-morningcomesafield，andnexttothatisthethrillthatgreetsthethrowingyourwholeroomwidetoit。Toletittrickleinatacasementistowashinadish。Thetruewayistotakethesunshinewiththeshockofaplungeintothesea，andfeelitglowandtinglealloveryou。
Therainhadtakenitselfoffinthenight，andtheairsparkledwithfreshness。Thetinygardencourtlayincool，richshadow，fleckedhereandtherewithspotsofdazzlewherearayreflectedfoundapathwayin，whiletheroofsaboveglistenedwithcountlessstarpoints。
Norwasminehostlesssmilingthantheday，thoughhehadnotoverchargedmeformyroom。Iwasnothingtohim，yethemademefeelhalfsorrytogo。Asmallpittance，too，theteamoneyseemed，forallthathadgonewithit。Wepayinthisworldwithcopperforthingsgoldcannotbuy。Humanitiesaresocheap——andsodear。
Thewholehouseholdgatheredinforceonitsoutersilltowishusgoodluckaswetookthestreet，andthrewsayonaras（\"ifitmustbeso\"）afterusaswerolledaway。
Thereisatouchofpathosinthispartingacquiescenceinfate。
Ifitmustbeso，indeed！IwonderdidminehostsuspectthatIdidnotallleave，——thatapartofme，asortofghostlylodger，remainedwithhimwhohadaskedmesolittleformystay？ProbablyinbodyI
shallneverstirhimagainfrombesidehisfire，norfollowasheleadsthewaythroughthelabyrinthofhishouse;butinspirit，attimes，Istillstealback，andIalwaysfindthesamekindwelcomeawaitingmeintheguestroomintheell，andthesamebrightsmileofmorningtogildthetinygardencourt。Theonlythingsbeyondthegraspofchangeareourownmemoriesofwhatoncewas。
VI。
OnaNewCorniceRoad。
Thesunshinequickenedusall，andourkurumatooktheroadlikeaflockofbirds;forjinrikishamenincompanyrunaswildgeesefly，crisscross。Itisanartistichabit，inculcatedtocourtladiesinbooksonetiquette。TomakethementraveleitherabreastorinIndianfile，issimplyimpossible。Afteramoment’sconformity，theyinvariablyrelapseintotheirownorderlydisorder。
Thismorningtheywereinfinefigureandbowledusalongtosomemerrytunewithin;whilethebaby-carriagesthemselvesjangledthebanglesontheiraxles，makingapleasingsortofcry。Thevillagefolkturnedintheirstepstostareandsmileaswespedpast。
Itwasastrange-appearingstreet。Onbothsidesofitinfrontofthehousesrananarcade，continuousbutirregular，acontributionofbuilding。Eachhousegaveitsmiteintheshapeofacoveredportico，whichfittedaswellascouldbeexpectedtothatofitsnextdoorneighbor。Butasthehouseswerenotofthesamesize，andthegroundsloped，theroofsoftheporticosvariedinlevel。Asimilarterracingheldgoodofthefloors。Theresultwasratherafederationthanastrictunionofinterests。Indeed，theobjectinviewwascommunal。Forthearcadesweresnowgalleries，Iwastold，toenabletheinhabitantsinwintertopassfromoneendofthevillagetotheother，noinconsiderabledistance。Theyvisoredbothsidesoftheway，showingthattheninthesepartsevenacrossingofthestreetisathingtobeavoided。Indeed，byallreportthedriftshereinthedepthofwintermustbeworthseeing。Evenatthismoment，Maythe6th，therewasstillneveonsomeofthelowestfoothills，andwepassedmorethanonepatchofdirt-grimedsnowbuttressingthehighwaybank。Thebanglesontheaxlesnowbegantohaveameaning，athingtheyhadhithertoseemedtolack。Withthesnowarcadesbywayofintroductiontheyspokeforthemselves。
Evidentlytheywerefirstcousinsofoursleighbells。Here，then，ascordiallyaswithusmanabhorsanacousticvacuum，andwhenNaturehasputhericybell-glassoverthenoisesofthefield，hemustneedsinventsomejingletowilehisearswithal。
Oncepastthehouseswecameuponastripofpaddyfieldsthatborderedthemountainslopetotheveryvergeofthetide。Someofthesestoodinspotswherethetiltofthelandwouldhaveseemedtohaveprecludedeventhethoughtofsuchcultivation。Forapaddyfieldmustbeperfectlylevel，thatitmaybekeptunderwateratcertainseasonsoftheyear。Onaslope，therefore，athingapaddyfieldneverhesitatestoscale，theyriseinterraces，skyward。Herethedropwassogreatthattheterracesmadebastionsthattoweredproudlyontheveryknife-edgeofdecisionbetweentheseaweedandthecliffs。ArunneltamedtoabambooductdidthemGanymedeservice。
Forapaddyfieldisperpetuallythirsty。
Itwastheseasonofrepairingofdykesandditchesinricechronology，amuchmorecomplicatedannalthanmightbethought。Thisinitialstageofithasacertainarchitecturalinterest。Everyyearbeforeplantingbeginsthedykeshavealltobere-madestrictlyinplace，fortheyserveforbothdamsandboundstotheelaboratelypartitionedfields。Adjacentmudisthereforecarefullyplasteredovertheremainsoftheolddyke，which，tothecreditoftheformerbuilders，isnosmallfractionofit，andtheworkthenfinishedoffwithasculptor’scare。Aneasier-goingpeasantrymightoftenforegorenewal。Indeed，Icannotbutthinkthefarmerstakeanaturaldelightinthisexaltedformofmudpies;theyworkawayonalreadypassablespecimenswithsuchawill。Butwhodoesquiteoutgrowhischildishdelights？Andtomakeoftheplayofchildhoodtheworkofmiddlelife，mustbetofoiltheprimalcursetotheveryletter。
Whatmoreenchantingpastimethantowadealldayinviscousmud，hearingyourfeetplashwhenyouputthemin，andsuckasyoudrawthemout;whilethehigherpartofyouisbusiedbuildingaparapetofglueysoil，smoothingitdownonthesidesandtop，andcrowningyourmasterpiecewitharowofsprigsalongthecrest？Andtheninthegloamingtotrudgehomeward，feelingthatyouhavedoneameritoriousdeedafterall！WhenIcometomysecondchildhood，Imeantoturnpaddyfieldfarmermyself。
Thoughthefieldstooktotheslopessokindly，theyhadapreferenceforplains。Inthedeltas，formedbythebiggerstreams，theyexpandedtilltheymadechessworkofthewhole。Laborerskneedeepinthevarioussquaresdidverywellforpawns。Thefieldsbeingstillintheirpre-natalstage，werenotexactlyhandsome。Therewastoomuchofoneuniversalbrown。Thiswasrelievedonlybythenurseriesofyoungplants，smallfieldshereandtherejustshowingadelicatedownygrowthofgreen，delightfultotheeye。Theywerenotlongsown。Foreachstilllaycradledunderitsscarecrow，apoleplantedinthecentreoftherectanglewithstringsstretchedtothefourcorners，andabitofragflutteringfromthepeak。Thescarecrowsare，nodoubt，useful，sincetheyareingeneraluse;butIcountedsevensparrowsfeedinginrecklessdisregardofdangerundertheverywingsofoneofthecontrivances。
Thecustomsofthecountryseemeddoomedthatdaytomisunderstanding，whetherbysparrowsorbybiggerbirdsofpassage。Thosewhichshouldhavestartledfailedofeffect，andthosewhichshouldnothavestartled，did。For，onturningthefaceofthenextbluff，wecameuponahamletapparentlyinthehightideofconflagration。
Fromeveryroofvolumesofsmokewererollingupintothesky，whilemenrushedtoandfroexcitedlyoutside。Iwasstirred，myself，forthereseemedscanthopeofsavingtheplace，suchheadwayhadthefire，asevidencedbythesmoke，alreadyacquired。Thehouseswereclosed;awisemovecertainlyonthescoreofdraft，butonethatprecludedafightingofthefire。Iwasforjumpingfromthejinrikishatosee，ifnottodosomethingmyself，whenIwasstoppedbythejinrikishamen，whocoollyinformedmethatthehouseswerelime-kilns。
Itappearedthatlime-makingwasaspecialtyoftheseparts，being，infact，thealternativeindustrytofishing，withthelittoralpopulation;thefarmingofitsstripofricefieldshardlycountingasaprofession，sincesuchcultureissecondnaturewiththeFarOriental。