Lime-makingmaylaborunderobjections，consideredgenerically，butthismethodofconductingthebusinessissusceptibleofadvantageousimitation。Itshouldcommenditselfatoncetotheatricalmanagersforabitofstageeffect。Evidentlyitisharmless。Nolessevidentlyitischeap;andinsomecasesitmightworkadoublebenefit。Impresariosmightthusconsumeallthepublicstatuaryaboutthetowntotheartisticeducationofthecommunity，besidesproducingmostrealisticresultsinthetheatre。
ThroughthecourtesyofsomeofthelaborersIwaspermittedtoenterasmallkilninwhichtheywerethenatwork。Iwentincautiously，andcameoutwithsomehaste，forthefumesoftheburning，whichquitefilledtheplace，mademefeelmyintrusiontoopoignantly。
Iamwillingtobelievetheworkthoroughlyenjoyablewhenonceyoubecomeusedtoit。Inthemeantime，Ishouldchooseitsalternative，——thepleasuresofadirtyfishingboatinanastyseaway，——ifIwereunfortunateenoughtomakeoneofthepopulation。Iliketobreathewithoutthinkingofit。
Thecharcoalusedintheprocesscame，theytoldme，fromNoto。
Ifeltathrillofprideinhearingthelandofmycourtingthusdistinctivelyspokenof，althoughthementionwerenotbywayofanyremarkablemerit。Atleasttheplacewashonorablyknownbeyonditsownborders;hadinfactacertainprestige。Fortheyadmittedtherewascharcoalintheirownprovince，butthebest，theyallagreed，camefromtheirneighboroverthesea。Theyspoketoappreciativeears。IwasonlytooreadytobelievethatthebestofanythingcamefromNoto。Didtheylaymyinteresttothescoreoflime-making，Iwonder，orweretheyinpartundeceivedwhenIaskedifNotowerevisiblefromwherewewere？
\"Itwas，\"theysaid，\"onverycleardays。\"\"DidIknowNoto？\"Whatshallamansaywhenquestionedthusconcerningthatonwhichhehassethisheart？Hecannotsayyes;shallhesaynoandputhimselfwithoutthepaleofmereacquaintance？Thereisasenseofnearnessnottobejustifiedtoanother，andtheonetowhomamanmayfeelmostkinisnotalwayssheofwhomheknowsthemost。
\"Iambywayofknowingit，\"Isaid，asmyeyesfollowedmythoughtshorizonward。Wasitallmiragetheysaworthoughttosee，thatfaintcoastlinewashedalittledeeperblueagainstthesky？Ifearmeso，forthelime-burnersfailedtomakeitout。Thedaywasnotclearenough，theysaid。
Butthelittleheapofcharcoalatleastwasreal，andithadoncebeenatreeonthatfarthershore。Charcoaltothem，itwasnolongercommoncharcoaltome;for，lookingatit，wasInotfacetofacewithsomethingthathadonceformedpartofNoto，theunknown！
VII。
OyaShiradzu，KoShiradzu。
Towardthemiddleoftheafternoonwereachedapartofthecoastlocallyfamousorinfamous，forthetwowereone;astretchofsomemileswherethemountainsmadenoapologyforfallingabruptlyintothesea。Sheerforseveralhundredfeet，theshoreishereunscalable。
Nordiditusetobepossibletogoroundbyland，forthecliffsaremerelytheendsofmountain-chains，themselvesutterlywildandtractless。AnarrowstripofsandwasthesolelinkbetweenEtchiuontheonehandandEchigoontheother。ThenativescalltheplaceOyashiradzu，koshiradzu，thatis，aspotwherethefathernolongerknowsthechild，northechildthefather;soobliteratingtosenseofallbesideisthepersonaldanger。Refugethereisnoneofanykind。Tohavebeencaughthereinastormonthemakingtide，mustindeedhavebeentolookdeathintheface。
Betweenthedevilofaprecipiceandthedeepsea，hewhoventuredonthepassagemusthavehurriedanxiouslyalongthethreadofsand，hopingtoreachthelastbendintime。Asheroundstheill-omenedcornerheseesheistoolate;alreadythesurfisbreakingagainstthecliff。Heturnsbackonlytofindretreatbarredbehindbyrollersthathavecreptinsincehepassed。Hisveryfootprintshaveallbeenwashedaway。Caged！Likethewallsofadeep-downdungeontheperpendicularclifftowersathisside，andinthepittheyrim，heandtheangryoceanareleftalonetogether。Thentheseabeginstoplaywithhim，creepingcatlikeup。Herhugepaws，thebreakers，buffethisface。Thewaterisalreadyabouthisfeet，ashebacksdesperatelyupagainsttherock。Andeachwavecomescrushinginwithacruelgrowltostrike——shortthistime。Butthenextbreakscloser，andthenextcloserstill。Heclimbsaboulder。Thesprayblindshim。Hehearsadeafeningroar;feelsashockthathurlshimintospace，andheknowsnomore。
Nowtheplaceisfearfulonlytofancy。Foraroadhasbeenbuilt，beltingthecliffshundredsoffeetabovethetide。Itisapartofwhatisknownasthenewroad，anameitislikelylongtokeep。
Itssidesareinplacessosteepthatitfailsofitsfootingandisconstantlyslippingoffintothesea。Suchsadmisstepsaretheoccasionforbandsofconvictstoappearonthesceneunderthemarshalingofapoliceofficerandbesettoworktorepairtheslidebydiggingalittledeeperintothemountain-side。Theconvictswearclothesofalightbrick-colorwhichatadistancelooksalittlelikecouleurderose，whilethepolicearedressedinsombreblue。Itwouldseemsomewhatofasatireonthefacts！
Thenewroadisnotwithoutitssensationtosuchasdislikelookingdown。Fortunately，thejinrikishamenhavenottheinstinctofpackmulestobepersistentlytriflingwithitsouteredge。
Inadditiontothevoidattheside，anothershowedeverynowandtheninfront，whereadipandaturncompletelyhidtheroadbeyond。
Theveritableendoftheworldseemedtobetherejustahead，closeagainstthevacancyofspace。Acoupleofrodsmoreandwemuststepoff——indeedtheendoftheworldforusifwehad。
WhentheroadcametofacetheOyashiradzu，koshiradzu，itattackedtherisebyfirstrunningawayfromitupastreamintothemountains;
abitofthewisdomoftheserpentthatenabledittogainmuchheightonthebendback。Treesvaultedthewaytapestryingitwiththeirleaves，betweenwhichonecaughtpeepsatthesea，ashimmerofbluethroughashimmerofgreen。Thepathwasstrungwithpedlarsandpilgrims;thelatterofbothsexesandallages，undermushroomhatswiththeirskirtsneatlytuckedinatthewaist，showingtheirleggings;theformerdoingfulcrumdutytoacoupleofbasketsswungonapoleovertheirshoulders。ThepilgrimswereontheirwaybackfromZenkoji。Someofthemwouldhavetrampedovertwohundredmilesonfootbeforetheyreachedhomeagain。Arichharvesttheybroughtback，religion，travel，andexerciseallinone，enoughtokeepthemhappylong。IknowofnothingwhichwouldmorepersuademetobeaBuddhistthanthesesamedelightfulpilgrimages。Freshair，freshscenesontheroad，andfreshfaithattheendofit。NodesertcaravanofpenancetotheseMeccas，butasummer’sstrollunderasummer’ssky。Anendthatsanctifiesthemeansandameansthatnolessjustifiesitsend。
Whilewewerestillinthewaywiththesepiousfolkwetouchedourmiddayhalt，awaysideteahousenotchedinacorneroftheroadcommandingapanoramicviewoverthesea。Theplacewaskeptbyadeafoldladyandhertaillesscat。Theoldlady’speculiaritywaspersonal;thecat’swasnot。Noself-respectingcatinthispartofJapancouldpossiblywearatail。Thenorthernbranchofthefamilyhaslongsincediscardedthatreallyuselessfelineappendage。Adoginlikecircumstancewouldbesadlystraitenedintheexpressionofhisemotions，butacatiseverywhitacatwithoutacontinuation。
Withthedeafoldladywehad，forobviousreasons，nosustainedconversation。Shebusiedherselfforthemostpartinmakingdango，akindofdumpling，butnotonecalculatedtostircuriosity，sinceitismadeofriceallthrough。Theseourmenatewithmorerelishthanwouldseempossible。MeanwhileIsatawayfromtheroadwhereI
couldlookoutupontheseaoverthecliffs，andthecatpurredaboutinheroffhandwayandusedmeincidentallyasarubbingpost。Treesfringedthepictureinfront，andtheribbonofroadwoundoffthroughitintothedistance，beadedwithfolk，andshotwithsunshineandshadow。
Iwassorrywhenlunchwasoverandwetookleaveofourgentlehostesses;tabbiesbothofthem，yetnounpleasingpair。Afewmorebendsbroughtustowherethepathculminated。Theroadhadforsometimelainbaretotheseaandsky，butatthesupremepointsomefinebeechesmadeanaturalscreenmaskingthenakedfaceoftheprecipice。
Onthecuttingabove，fourhugeChinesecharactersstoodgravedintherock。
\"Yanogotoku，tonogotoshi。\"
\"Smoothasawhetstone，straightasanarrow，\"meaningthecliff。
Perhapsbecauseoftheirpictorialdescent，thecharactersdidnotshockone。Unliketheusualbrandingofnature，theyseemednotoutofkeepingwiththespot。Notfarbeyond，thebuttsofthewinter’sneve，buriedindirt，bankedthepath。
Formilesalongtheraodtheviewoffwassuperb。Nothingborderedonesideofthewayandthemountainborderedtheother。Farbelowlaythesea，stretchingawayintoblueinfinity，avastsemicircleofultramarinedomedbyahemisphereofazure;anditwasnoticeablehowmuchvasterthesealookedthanthesky。Weweresohighaboveitthattheheavingsofitslongerswellswereleveledtoimperceptibility，whilethewavesonlygravedthemotionlesssurface。Hereandtheretherufflingsofabreezeshowedindarkermarkings，likethechangesonwateredsilk。Themostephemeraldisturbancemadethemostshow。
Dottedovertheblueexpansewereblackspots，fishingboats;andasteamerwithalongtrailofsmokeshowedintheoffing，stationarytotheeye，yetshiftingitsplaceliketheshadowofastylewhenyouforgottolook。Andinlongperspectiveoneitherhandstretchedthebattlementofcliff。Visualimmensitylaytherebeforeus，ineachofitsthreemanifestations;ofline，ofsurface，andofspace。
Westoodstill，thebettertotrytotakeitin——thisgrandeurtemperedbysunshineandwarmth。Dowhathewill，manisverymuchthecreatureofhissurroundingsyet。Insomeinstantsense，theeyesfashionthefeelings，andweourselvesgrowbroaderwithourhorizon’sbreadth。TheChaldeanshepherdsalonewiththenighthadgranderthoughtsforthecompanionship，andIventuretobelievethattheheartofthemountaineerowesquiteasmuchtowhatheisforcedtovisageastowhatheiscompelledtodo。
Wetuckedourselvesintoourjinrikishaandstarteddown。Byvirtueofgoing，thespeedincreased，tillthewaywerolledroundthecurveswasintoxicating。Thepanoramabelowswungtomatch，andweleanedinoroutmechanicallytotrimthebalance。Occasionally，asithitsomestone，thevehiclegavealurchthatstartledusforamomentintosobriety，fromwhichwestraightwayrelapsedintoexhilaration。Curiousthis，howthebodybringsaboutitsownforgetting。ForIwasconsciousonlyofmind，andyetmindwastheonepartofmenotinmotion。Isupposemuchoxygenmademetipsy。
Ifso，itisarecommendabletipple。Spiritswerenotunhappilynamedafterthenaturalarticle。
ItwaslateafternoonwhenweissuedatlastfromourtwodaysThermopylaeupontheEtchiuplain。Aswedrewoutintoitsexpanse，thegiantpeaksoftheTateyamarangecameintoviewfrombehindtheirfoothills，drapedstillintheirwinterermine。Itwaslastyearyetinthoseupperregionsoftheworld，butallaboutusbelowthrobbedwiththeheartbeatsofthespring。Ateachmile，amidtheeverlengtheningshadows，natureseemedtogrowmoresentient。
Throughthethickairthepeaksstoodoutagainsttheeasternsky，insaffronthatflushedtoroseandthenpaledtogray。Thericefields，alreadyfloodedfortheirfirstworking，mirroredtheglowoverheadsoglassilythattheirdykesseemedtofloat，insunsetillusion，amerebartraceryofearthbetweentheskyaboveandaskybeneath。
Uponsuchlatticeofaworldwejourneyedinmid-heaven。Stealthilytheshadowsgathered;andasthehourforconfidencesdrewon，naturetookusintohers。Thetreesinthetwilight，justbreakingintoleaf，stoodingroupsamongthefieldsandwhisperedlowtooneanother，noddingtheirheads;andthenfromouttheshadowoftheMayeveningcamethecroakingofthefrogs。Strangelythesoundfittedthehour，withitsliketouchofmysterioussuggestion。Asthetwilightindefinite，itpervadedeverything，yetwasneveranywhere。
Deafeningatadistance，ithushedatourapproachonlytobeginagainbehindus。Will-o’-the-wispoftheear，infatuatingbecauseforeverillusive！Andthedistanceandthenumbersblendedwhathadperhapsbeenharshintoamellowwholethatfilledthegloamingwithasortofvoice。IbegantounderstandwhytheJapanesearesofondofitthattheydeemitnotunworthyaplaceinnature’svocalpantheonbutlittlelowerthanthesongofthenightingale，andechoitssentimentinverse。Andindeeditseemstomethathissoulmustbeconventionallytunedinwhomthiseven-songofthericefieldsstirsnoresponsivechord。
VIII。
AcrosstheEtchiuDelta。
Thetwilightlingered，andtheroadthreadeditstortuouscourseformilesthroughthericeplain，borderedoneitherhandbythedykesofthepaddyfields。Everyfewhundredfeet，wepassedafarmhousescreenedbyclippedhedgerowsandbosomedintrees;andatlongerintervalswerolledthroughsomevillage，thecountrypikebecomingforthetimethevillagestreet。Thelandwasanarchipelagoofhomesteadinaseaofrice。Butthetreesaboutthedwellingssocutuptheview，thatforthemomentsofpassingthemindforgotitwasallsoflatandcamebacktoitsoceaninsurprise，whenthenextvistaopenedonthesides。
Thingshadalreadybecomesilhouetteswhenwedashedintolantern-lightedMikkaichi。Wetooktheplaceinform，andafinesensationwemade。Whatbetweentheshoutsoftherunnersandtheclatterofthechaisesmen，womenandchildrenmadehastetoclearatrack，snatchingtheirlittleonesbackandthenstaringatusaswesweptpast。Indeed，theteamsputtheirbestfeetforemostforlocaleffect，andmorethanoncecamewithinanaceofrunningoversomeurchinwhoeitherwouldnotorcouldnotgetoutoftheway。
Fortunatelynocasualtiesoccurred。Foritwouldhavebeenignominioustohavebeenarrestedbythepoliceduringourfirsttenminutesinthetown，nottospeakofthesaddampeningtoourfeelingsanaccidentwouldhavecaused。
Inthismadmannerwedashedupthelongmainstreet。Wewereforcedtotaketheside，forthevillageaqueductorgutter——itservedbothpurposes——monopolizedthemiddle。Atshortintervals，itwasspannedbycausewaysmadeofslabsofstone。Overoneofthesewemadeafinalswirlanddrewupbeforetheinn。Thenourshaftsmadetheirobeisancetotheground。
Awarmwelcomegreetedtheappeal。Acrowdofservantscamerushingtothefrontofthehousewithaneyetobusiness，andacrowdofvillagefolkwithaneyetopleasureclosedinbehind。Betweenthetwofireswesteppedoutandenteredthesidecourt，tothesatisfactionoftheoneaudienceandthechagrinoftheother。
Butitisimpossibletopleaseeverybody。
Fortunatelyitwasnotsohardtopleaseus，andcertainlytheinnpeopledidtheirbest;fortheyledthewaytowhatformerlywerethestateapartments，thatpartofthehousewherethedaimyoofKagahadbeenwonttolodgewhenhestoppedhereovernightonhisjourneynorth。Thoughithadfallensomewhatintodisrepair，itwasstilltheplaceofhonorintheinn，andthereforepolitelyputattheserviceofonefrombeyondsea。ThereIsuppedinsolitarystate，andthereIsleptrightroyallyamidtherelicsofformersplendor，doubtingalittlewhethersomeunlaidghostofbygonetimesmightnotcometoclaimhisown，andoustmeatblackmidnightbytherats，hisretinue。
Butnothingshortofthesuncalledmebacktoconsciousnessandbademeopentothetinygarden，whereapairofduckswerepreeningtheirfeathersafteranearlybathintheirownlittlelake。Ontheverandamylakealreadystoodprepared;abrassbasinuponawoodenstand，accordingtothecustomofthecountry。SoducksandI
dabbledandprinkedinallinnocenceinthegarden，whichmightwellhavebeenthegardenofEdenforanyhintitgaveofaworldbeyond。
Itwasmyfate，too，toleaveitafterthesamemanner。
Forbreakfastoverwewereoncemoreoftheroad。
Wehadalongdayofitbeforeus，forIpurposedtocrosstheEtchiudeltaandsleepthatnightonthethresholdofmyhopes。Theday，likealldaysthatlooklongonthemap，provedstilllongeronthemarch。Itsitinerarydiversifieddiscomfort。Firstseventeenmilesinkuruma，thenaferry，thenatrampoftwelvemilesalongthebeachthroughaseriesofsanddunes;thenanotherferry，andfinallyasecondwalkofsevenmilesandahalfoversomefoothillstotopoffwith。Theinexpensivenessofthetransportwasthesolerelievingfeatureoftheday。Not，Imean，becausethegreaterandworsehalfofthejourneywasdoneonourownfeet，butbecauseofthecheapchargesofthechaisesandevenoftheporters。Torunatadogtrot，trundlinganotherinababycarriage，seventeenmilesfortwentycentsisnot，Ihold，anextortionateprice。Certaindetailsofthetariff，however，arepeculiar。Forinstance，iftwomensharetheworkbyrunningtandem，thefareismorethandoubled;aratiointheartofproportionsurprisingatfirst。Eachmanwouldseemtochargeforbeinghelped。Thefactis，thegreaterspeedexpectedofthepairmorethanoffsetsthedecreaseddraft。
Otherwise，asIsay，thedaywasdepressing。Itwasnotmerelythetrampthroughthesanddunesthatwasregrettable，thoughheavenknowsIwouldnotwillinglytakeitagain。Thesandhadfartoohospitableatrickofholdingontoyouateverysteptobetomyliking。Besides，thesun，whichhadcomeoutwithsummerinsistence，chosethatparticularspotforitsmiddaysiesta，andlaythereatfulllength，whiletheairwaspreternaturallystill。Itwasastupidlydrowsyheatthatgavenofilliptothefeet。
Butsuchdiscomfortwasmerelybytheway。TherealtroublebeganatFushiki，thetownonthefarthersideofthesecondferry。Inthefirstplacethespothad，whatismostuncommoninJapan，averysorrylook，whichwasdepressinginitself。Secondly，itsinhabitantsweremuchtoobusyormuchtoounemployed，orboth，tobeabletoattendtostrangersatthathouroftheafternoon。Consequentlyitwasalmostimpossibletogetanyonetocarrythebaggage。
Wedispatchedemissaries，however。Bygoodluckwesecuredsomebeer，andthenarguedourselvesdryagainontheluggagequestion。
Theemissarieswereatwork，wewereassured，andatlastsomeonewhohadbeensentforwassaidtobecoming。Stilltimedraggedon，untilfinallytheburdenbearersturnedup，andturnedouttobe——women。
AtthisIrebelled。Thesituationwasnotnew，butitwasnonethelessimpossible。Inout-of-the-waydistrictsIhadrefusedoffersofthekindbefore。ForJapanesebeastsofburdenruninadecreasingscaleasfollows，accordingtothepovertyoftheplace：jinrikisha，horses，bulls，men，women。Idrawmylineatthelast。Iamwellawarehowabsurdtheobjectsthemselvesregardsuchaprotectivepolicy，butIclingtomyprejudices。TothepresentprofferIwasadamant。Tostepjauntilyalonginairyunencumberednessmyself，whileastringofwomentrudgedwearilyafter，loadedwithmyheavypersonaleffects，wasmorethananAnglo-Saxonattitudetowardsthesexcouldstand。Iwouldnoneofthem，tothesurpriseanddismayoftheinnlandlord，andtothenoslightwonderofthewomen。
Thediscardingwasnotaneasypieceofwork。Thefaironeswerepresentatit，andIhavenodoubtmisinterpretedthemotive。
Forwomenhaveaweaknessforatouchoftheslave-masterinaman。
Beside，\"hellhathnofurylikeawomanscorned，\"thoughitbeonlyinthecapacityofaporter。Therewasnothingforit，however，buttoletitgoatthat。Fortohaveexplainedwithmoreinsistencewouldinfalliblyhavedeepenedtheirsuspicionsofwoundedvanity。
Butitdidseemhardtobeobligedtofeelabruteforrefusingtobeone。
Thelandlord，thankstomyimportunities，managedaftersomefurtherdelaytosecureacoupleoflustylads，relatives，Isuspect，ofthediscardedfairones，andwiththemweeventuallysetout。Wehadnotgonefar，whenIcametoconsider，unjustly，nodoubt，thattheyjourneyedtooslow。ImighthavethoughtdifferentlyhadIcarriedthechattelsandtheythepurse。Ishudderedtothinkwhatthesituationwouldhavebeenwithwomen，fortheneventhepoorsolaceofremonstrancewouldhavebeendenied。Asitwas，Ispentmuchbreathintryingtohurrythem，anditispleasanternowthanitwasthentoreflecthowfutilely。ForIratedthemroundly，whiletheyacceptedmyverbalgoadingswiththetrainedstolidityoffolkwhowereusedtoit。
Whenatlastweapproachedthevillageofourdestination，whichborethenameofHimi，itwasalreadydusk，andthiswiththelongMaytwilightmeantalatehourbeforeweshouldbecomfortablyhoused。
Indeed，Ihadbeenquarteredinanticipationforthelastfewmiles，andwasonlyawaitingarrivaltoenterintoinstantpossessionofmyfanciedestate。Notcontentevenwithpureinsubstantiality，IhadinterviewedvariouspeoplethroughYejiroonthesubject。First，theportershadbeenexhaustivelycatechized，andthenwhatwayfarerswechancedtomeethadbeenbuttonholedbeside;withtheresultofmuchcontradictoryinformation。Thereseemedtobeaninnwhichwas，Iwillnotsaygood，butthebest，butnotwoinformantscouldagreeincallingitbyname。OnethoughtherememberedthattheNorthInnwastheplacetogoto;anotherthathehadheardtheWistariaHousespeciallycommended。
Alldoubts，however，weresetatrestwhenwereachedthetown。
Forwithouttheslightesthesitation，everyoneofthehousesinquestionrefusedtotakeusin。Theunanimitywaswonderfulconsideringthelackofcollusion。YejiroandImadeasmanyunsuccessfulapplicationstogetherasIcouldstand。ThenIwentandsatdownonthesillofthefirstteahouseforabaseofoperations——Icannotsayformyheadquarters，becausethatisjustwhatwecouldnotget——andgavemyselfuptomelancholy。MeanwhileYejiroransackedthetown，fromwhichexcursionshereturnedeveryfewminuteswithafreshrefusal，butthesameexcuse。ItgotsoatlastIcouldanticipatetheexcuse。Theinnwasfullalready——ofassessorsandtheirvictims。Theassessorshaddescendedonthespot，itseemed，andthewholecountry-sidehadcometotowntolieaboutthevalueofitsland。Ionlywishedtheinhabitantsmighthavechosensomeothertimeforfalseswearing。Foritwasasadtaxonmycredulity。
WedidindeedgetoneofferwhichIdulywenttoinspect，buttheoutsideofthehousesatisfiedme。AtlastIadoptedextrememeasures。IsentYejiroofftothepolicestation。Thismoveproduceditseffect。
Evenathome，fromhavingcontrivedtokeeponthesunnysideofthelawandorder，myfeelingstowardthepolicearefriendlyenoughforallpracticalpurposes;butinnolandhaveIsuchanaffectionateregardfortheconstabularyasinJapan。Membersoftheforcethere，ifthetermbeapplicabletoasetofstudentsspectacledfromover-study，whosestrengthisentirelymoral，nevergetyouintotrouble，andusuallygetyououtofit。Oneoftheirchiefcharmstothetravelerliesintheiropen-sesameeffectuponobduratelandlords。Inthistricktheyarewonderfullysuccessful。
Havinggivenourselvesuptothepolice，therefore，wewerealreadybywayofbeinglodged，andthatquickly。Soindeeditproved。
Inthetimetogoandcome，Yejiroreappearedwithanofficerincivilian’sclothes，whofirstmadeprofuseapologiesforpresentinghimselfinundress，butitseemedhewasoffdutyatthemoment，——andthenledthewayastone’sthrowroundthecorner;andinfiveminutesIwassittingassnuglyasyoupleaseinacapitalroominaninn’sthirdstory，sippingteaandpeckingatsugarplums，adistinctlyhonoredguest。
Herefateputinatouchofsatire。Foritnowappearedthatallourtroublewasquitegratuitous。Mostsurprisinglytheinnkeepers’
storyonthisoccasionprovedtobeentirelytrue，apossibilityI
hadneverentertainedforasecond;andfurthermoreitappearedthatourpresentinnwastheoneinwhichIhadbeenofferedroomsbuthadrefused，dislikingitsexterior。
Suchistherewardforactingongeneralprinciples。
IX。
OvertheArayamaPass。
Themorningthatwastogivememyself-promisedlandcreptontiptoeintotheroomonthethirdstory，andtouchedmewhereIslept，andonpushingtheshojiapartandlookingout，Ibeheldasfairadayasheartcouldwish。Afaintmistyvapor，likeabridalveil，wasjustliftingfromoffthefaceofthings，andlettingtheskyshowthroughinblue-eyeddepths。Itwasamorningofdesire，bashfulforitsyouthasyet，butgracedwithadepthofatmospheresuretoexpandintoafull，warm，perfectnoon;andIhastenedtobeoutandbecomeapartofit。
Threejinrikishasstoodwaitingourcomingatthedoor，andamidstapeltingofsayonarafromthewholehousehold，wedashedoffasproudlyaspossibledownthemainstreetofthetown，totheadmirationofmanylookers-on。Theair，ladenwithmoisture，leftkissesonourcheeksaswehurriedby，whilethesunshinefellinlongscarfsofgauzyshimmerovertheshouldersoftheeasternhills。
Themenintheshaftsfeltthefillipofitallandencouragedoneanotherwithlustycries，alight-heartednessthatlentthemheels。
Eventhepeasantsinthefieldsseemedtowishuswell，astheylookedupfromtheirworktogringood-humoredly。
Wevaluemostwhatweattainwithdifficulty。Itwasonthisprinciplenodoubtthattheroadconsideratelyproceededtogiveout。
Itdegeneratedindeedveryrapidlyafterlosingsightofthetown，andsoonwasnomorethanacollectionofholesstrungonruts，thatmadetravelinperambulatorstiringaliketobodyandsoul。Atlast，afterfivemilesoffloundering，itgaveupallpretenceatawheel-way，anddepositedusatawaysideteahouseatthefootofalittlevalley，thefirststepindeeduptheArayamapass。Lowhillshadclosedinontheright，shuttingoffthesea，andtheridgedividingNotofromEtchiuroseinhigherlinesupontheleft。
Herewehiredporters，securingthemfromtheneighboringfields，fortheywereprimarilypeasants，andwereportersonlyasweweretramps，byvirtueofthecountry。Porteragebeingthesolemeansoftransport，theycametocarryourthingsastheywouldhavecarriedtheirown，inskeletonhodsstrappedtotheirbacks。InthistheydidnotdifferfromtheJapanesecustomgenerally;butinonepointtheyshowedastrangeadvanceovertheirfellows。Theywerewonderfullymethodicalfolk。Theypaidnoheedtoourhurry，andinsteadofshoulderingthebaggagetheyproceededtoweighit，eachmanloadbyitself，onasteelyardofwoodsixfeetlong;theresultstheythenworkedoutconscientiouslyonanabacus。AfterwhichI
paidaccordingly。Trulyanequitableadjustmentbetweenmanandman，atwhichIlostonlythetimeittook。Thenwestarted。
Fromtheteahousethepathrosesteadilyenoughforsouneducatedaway，leavingthevalleytocontractintoanopenglen。Theday，inthemeantime，cameoutasithadpromised，fullandwarm，finebaskingweather，asacertainsnakeinthepathseemedtothink。So，Ijudge，didtheporters。Ifitbethepacethatkills，thesesimplefolkmustbealong-livedrace。Theycertainlywereverycarefulnottohurrythemselves。Hadtheybeenhiredforlife，sothriftyahusbandingoftheirstrengthwouldhavebeenmostgratifyingtowitness;unluckilytheyweremineonlyforthejob。Theymoved，onefootaftertheother，withamechanicalprecision，exhaustingeventolookat。Tokeepwiththemwaspracticallyimpossibleforanordinarypedestrian。Nothingshortofawomanshoppingcouldworthilyhavematchedtheirpace。Insighttheirspeedwassnail-like;outofittheywouldappeartohavestopped，sofardidtheyfallbehind。
OnceIthoughttheyhadturnedback。
ThepathwewerefollowingwastheleasttraveledoftheonlytwopossibleentrancesintoNotobyland。Itwasasideorposterngatetotheplace，overagaponthenorthernendofamountainwall;
themainapproachlyingalongitsotherflank。Forahighrangeofuninhabitedhillsnearlydamsthepeninsulaacross，fallingontherightsidestraightintothesea，butleavingontheotheralowlandligaturethatbindsNototoKaga。TogetfromKagaintoEtchiu，therangehastobecrossedlowerdown。OurdipinthechainwascalledtheArayamatogeorRoughMountainpass，andwasperhapsfifteenhundredfeethigh，butpleasinglymodeledinitslinesafteronetentimesitsheight。
Half-wayupthetugofthelastfurlong，wheretheascentbecamesteepenoughforzig-zags，Iturnedtolookback。Downawayfrommefellthevalley，slippingbyreasonofitsownslopeoutintothegreatEtchiuplain。Hereandthereshowedbitsofthepathincorkscrew，frommypersonalstandpointallperfectlyporterless。
Overthelowhills，totheleft，laythesea，thecrescentofitsgreatbeachsweepinggrandlyroundintotheindistinguishabledistance。BackofitstretchedtheEtchiuplain，butbeyondthat，nothing。Themountainsthatshouldhaveboundeditwerelosttosightinthespringhaze。
Mechanicallymyeyesfollowedupintothelanguidblue，whensuddenlytheychanceduponalittlecloud，forcloudItookittobe。
Yetsomethingaboutitstruckmeasstrange，andscanningitmoreclosely，bythismostnaturalkindofsecondsight，Imarkedtheunmistakableglistenofsnow。Itwasasnowpeaktoweringthereinisolatedmajesty。AsIgazeditgrewonmewithineffablegrandeur，sparklingwithafaintsaffronglamourofitsown。ShiftingmylookalittleIsawanotherandthenanotherofthevisions，likepuffsofsteam，risingabovetheplain。Halfapparitions，belowacertainline，thesnowline，theyvanishedintoair，forbetweenthemandthesolidearththerelookedtobebluesky。Thehazeofdistance，onthissoftMayday，hidtheirlowerslopesandleftthepeakstotoweraloneintothevoid。TheywerethegiantsoftheTateyamarange，standingthereoveragainstmeinaccessiblysuperb。
Apairofteahouses，rivals，crownedthesummitofthepass，which，likemostJapanesepasses，wasamereknife-edgeofearth。Withaquickenedpulseifaslackenedgait，Itoppedthecrest，walked——straightpastthetwinteahousesandtheirimportunitiestostop——
anotherhalf-dozenpacestothebrink，andinonesweeplookeddownoverathousandfeetonthewesternside。Noto，eyelashedbythebranchesofatreejustbreakingintoleaf，layopentomebelow。
Afterthefirstglowofattainment，thisinitialviewwas，Iwillconfess，disillusioning。Insteadofwhatunfetteredfancyhadledmetoexpect，Isawonlyalotofterracedrice-fieldsbackedbyrangesoflowhills;foralltheworldaparquetingreenandbrowntiles。
Andyet，asthewishtoexcusepromptedmetothink，wasthisnot，afterall，asitshouldbe？ForIwaslookingbutattheentrancetotheland，itsouterhallway，asitwere;Nanao，itscapital，itsinlandsea，allitsbeyondwasstillshutfrommebythenearerhills。Andfeelingthusatlibertytobeamused，Iforthwithsawitasasatireonpanoramasgenerally。
Panoramicviewsarepainfullyplain。Theymustneedsbemappyatbest，foryourownelevationflattensallbelowittoonetopographiclevel。Fieldandwoodland，townorlake，showbytheircolorsonlyasiftheystoodinprint;andyoumightaswelllayanygoodatlasonthefloorandsurveyitfromtheloftyheightofafootstool。
Suchbeingtheinevitable，itwasrefreshingtoseethethingincaricature。Nopains，evidently，hadbeensparedbytheinhabitantstomaketheirmaprealistic。Therethegeometriclinesallstoodinludicrousinsistence;anychildcouldhavedrawnthethingasmechanically。
Thetwoteahouseswerewellpatronizedbywayfarersofbothsexes，restingaftertheirclimb。Somesimplysippedtea，chatting;othersmadearegularmealoftheopportunity。Thegreaternumbersat，aswedid，onthesill，forthetroubleoftakingofftheirstrawsandals。
Ourlandladywasthemodelofwhatalandladyshouldbe，foritwasapparentlyafeminineestablishment。Iftherewasamanattachedtoit，hekepthimselfdiscreetlyinthebackground。Shewasakind，sympatheticsoul，withawordforeveryone，andadeliberatenessofactionaseffectiveasitwasefficient。Andinthemidstofitall，shekeptuparefrainofwelcomesandgood-bys，asnewcomersappearedoroldcomersleft。Theunavoidablepreliminaryexerciseandthecrispairwhettedallourappetites。SoIdoubtnotshedroveathrivingtrade，althoughtoWesternideasofvalueherchargeswereinfinitesimallysmall。
Middayhaltsforluncharegodsendstotrampswhotravelwithporters。
Theycompeltheporterstocatchup，andgivethehireropportunitytosaythingswhichatleastrelievehim，iftheydonogood。Ihadbeguntofearourswoulddeprivemeofthispleasure，andindeedhadgotsofaroninmymealastocarelittlewhethertheydid，whenautomaticallytheyappeared。Fortunatelytheyneededbutashortrest，andasthedescentontheNotosidewasmuchsteeperthanontheother，halfanhour’swalkbroughtustothelevelofkurumaoncemore。
AbitoflanealmostEnglishinlook，boweredintreesandwindingdelightfullylikesomehumanstream，ledustoateahouse。Whilewewereorderingchaisesalotofchildrengatheredtoinspectus，thuskindlygivingusourfirstviewofthenatives。Theylookedmoreopen-eyedthanJapanesegenerally，butsucheffectmayhavebeenduetowonder。Atallevents，thestare，ifitwasastare，seemedlikeasilentsortofwelcome。
LeavingthechildrenstillgazingafteruswebowledawaytowardNanao，andinthecourseoftimecaughtourfirstglimpseofitfromtheupperendofasweepofmeadows。Itsatbythewater’sedgeattheheadofalandlockedbay，thenearerarmoftheinlandsea;andanapologyforshippingrodeintheoffing。Itseemedaveryfair-sizedtown，andaltogetheramorelivelyplacethanIhadthoughttofind。Clearlyitslifewasasengrossingtoitasifnowallofhillsnotchingtheskyshutouttheworldbeyond。Havingheard，however，thatawatering-placecalledWakurawasthesightoftheprovince，andlearningnowthatitwasbutsixmilesfurther，wedecided，asitwasyetearlyintheafternoon，topushon，andtakethecapitallater。Wedidtakeitlater，verymuchlaterthenextnight，thanwaspleasing。
Wakura，indeed，wastheonethinginNoto，exceptthecharcoal，whichhadanultra-Noto-riousreputation。RumorsofithadreachedusasfarawayasShinshiu，andwitheveryfreshinquirywemadeasweadvancedtherumorshadgatheredstrength。Ourinformantsspokeofitwiththevaguerespectaccordedhearsayhonor。Clearly，itwasnoplacetopassby。
TheroadtoitfromNanaowasnotnoteworthy，butfortwothings;oneofficiallycommendedtosight-seers，theothernot。Thefirstwasacuriouswater-wornrockupontheedgeofthebay，somewaifofaboulder，doubtless，sinceitstuckupquitealoneoutofthesand。
Ashrineperchedatop，andalargertempleencircleditbelow，towhichitsfantasticcuttingsservedasgatewayandgarden。Theuncommendedsightwasaneighboringpaddyfield，inwhichacompanyoffrogs，caughttrespassing，stoodimpaledonsticksafoothigh，asawfulwarningstotheirkind。Beyondthisthewaypassedthroughastringofclaycuttingsfollowingthecoast，andingoodtimerolledusintothemidstofacollectionofbarnlikebuildingswhichitseemedwasWakura。
Theseasonforthebathshadnotyetbegun，sothatthenumberofpeopleatthehotelswasstillquitesmall。Notsothecatalogueofcomplaintsforwhichtheywerevisited。ThelistappalledmeasI
satonthethresholdofmyprospectivelodging，listeningtominehost’sencomiumsonthevirtuesofthewaters。Heexpatiatedeloquentlyonboththequantityandqualityofthecures，quiteunsuspiciousthatateachfreshrecommendationhewasinmyeyesdepreciatinghisownwares。DidhehopethatamongsuchahandsomechoiceofdiseasesImightatleasthaveone！Iwasveryneartobeatingahastyretreatonthespot。FortheaccommodationinJapaneseinnsisofadistressinglycommunisticcharacteratbest，andalthoughatpresenttherewerefewpatientsintheplace，thegermswerepresumablystillthereonthelookoutforavictim。
Immediatecomfort，however，gettingthebetterofproblematicalrisk，Iwentin。Theroomallottedmelayonthegroundfloorjustoffthegarden，andIhadnotbeentheremanyminutesbeforeIbecameaware，asonedoes，thatIwasbeingstaredat。Theculpritinstantlypretended，withaverysheepishair，tobeonlytakingawalk。Hewasthevanguardofanarmyofthecurious。Thepeopleinthenextroomweremuchexercisedoverthenewarrival，anddidalldecencyallowedtocatchaglimpseofme;forwhichintimetheywererewarded。Visitorslodgedfartherofftookaimlessstrollstotheverandas，andlookedatmewhentheythoughtIwasnotlookingatthem。Allenviedtheservants，whoout-didAbrabycomingwhenI
callednobody，andthenlingeringtotalk。AltogetherIwasmoreofanotorietythanIeverhopetobeagain;especiallyasanyEuropeanwouldhavedonethemaswell。Mypublicwouldhavebeengreater，asIafterwardslearned，ifYejirohadnotbeenholdingrivalcourtinthekitchen。
Betweenusweweregivenagooddealoflocalinformation。Onebitfailedtocausemeunmitigateddelight。Wewerenot，itappeared，thefirstforeignerstosetfootinWakura。TwoEuropeanshad，inaquiteuncalled-forway，descendedupontheplacethesummerbefore，uptowhichtime，indeed，thespothadbeenvirgintoCaucasians。
Luredbythefameofthesprings，thesemenhadcomefromKanazawainKaga，wheretheywereengagedinteachingchemistry，tomakeatestofthewaters。Ibelievetheydiscoverednothingstartling。Icouldhavepredictedasmuchhadtheyconsultedmebeforehand。Theyneglectedtodoso，andtheresultwastheycame，sawandconqueredwhatlittlenoveltytheplacehad。Iwasquitechagrined。Itsimplyshowedhowbetroddenintheselatterdaystheworldis。Thereisnotsomuchasaremotecornerofitbutfallsunderoneoftwoheads;
thoseplacesworthseeingwhichhavealreadybeenseen，andthosethathavenotbeenseenbutarenotworthseeing。WakuraOnsenstruckmeasfallingintothelatterhalvesofbothcategories。
WhilediscussingmysolitarydinnerIwasinformedbyYejirothatsomeonewishedtospeakwithme，andonadmittingtobeathome，thelocalprefectwasusheredin。Hecameostensiblytovisemypassport，adutyusuallyquitesatisfactorilyperformedbyanypoliceman。Theexcusewastransparent。Hereallycamethathemightseeforhimselftheforeignerwhomrumorhadreportedtohavearrived。AsapassportonhisparthepresentedmewithsomepridethebitofautobiographythathehadhimselfoncebeeninTokyo;
afactwhichinhismindinstantlymadeusakindofbrothers，andraisedusbothintoacommonregionofsuperioritytooursurroundings。Heaskedaffectionatelyaftertheplace，andI
answeredasifithadbeentheonethoughtinbothourhearts。
Itwasapleasinglittlecomedy，aseachofuswasconsciousofitsconsciousnessbytheother。Altogetherwewereveryfriendly。
BetweentwosuchTokyoitesitwas，ofcourse，themerestformalitytoviseapassport，butbeingoneimposedbylawhekindlyranhiseyeovermine。Asitomittedtodescribemypersonalappearanceintheusualcarefullyminutemanner，asfaceoval，noseordinary，complexionmedium，andsoforth，identificationfrommerelookswasnotstriking。SohehadtotakemeontrustforwhatIpurportedtobe，anassumptionwhichdidnotdisconcerthimintheleast。Withwritingmaterialswhichhedrewfromhissleeve，heregisteredmethenandthere，and，thedemandsofthelawthuscompliedwithtotheletter，leftmeamidrenewedcivilitiestosleepthesleepofthejust。
X。
AnInlandSea。
TheyhadtoldusovernightthatasmallsteamerpliedeveryotherdaythroughNoto’sunfamedinlandsea，leavingthecapitalearlyinthemorning，andtouchingshortlyafteratWakura。Asgoodluckwouldhaveit，themorrowhappenednottobeanyotherday，soweembracedtheopportunitytoembarkinherourselves。Onher，itwouldbemoreaccuratetosay，forsheprovedsuchamitethathercabinwasbarelypossibleandanythingbutdesirable。BysquattingdownandcraningmyneckIpeeredinattheentrance，afeatwhichwasdifficultenough。Shewas，intruth，notmuchbiggerthanaship’sgig;butshehadasouloutofallproportiontohersize。Thewayitthrobbedandstrainedandsetherwholelittleframequiveringwithexcitement，mademethinkeverymomentthatshewasabouttoexplode。
ThefactthatshewasmannedexclusivelybyJapanesedidnotentirelyreassureme。
Therewasanapologyforadeckforward，towhich，whenwewerewellunderway，Iclamberedovertheotherpassengers。IwasjustsittingdowntheretoenjoyacomfortablepipewhenIwasstartlinglyrequestedbyavoicefromacaboosebehindtomoveoff，asIwasobscuringtheviewofthemanatthewheel。AfterthatIperchedonthegunwale。
Westeamedmerrilyoutintothemiddleofthebay。Thewaterwasslumberouslysmooth，andunderthetawnyhazeofthemorningitshonewiththesheenofburnishedbrass。Fromthegentleplowingofourbowitrolledlazilytooneside，asifintruthitweremoltenmetal。
Land，atvaryingpicturesquedistances，layonallsidesofus。
Insomedirectionstheshorewasnotmorethanamileandahalfoff;
inothers，theeyewandereddownavistaofwaterframedbylowheadlandsfortenmilesormore。Buttheatmospheregavethedominantthought，astrangeslumber-likeseclusion。Sorichandgolden，itshutthislittlecorneroftheworldinasortofhappyvalleyofitsown，andthesmokefrommypipedrifteddreamilyastern，anaturalincensetothespiritsofthespot。
Thepassengerssuggestedanything，fromapublicpicnictoanearlyexplorationparty。Thereweremen，womenandchildrenofallagesandkinds，somestowedawayinthecabinbehind，somegatheredingroupsamidships;andthoseinthecabinthoughtsmallfryofthoseondeck。Thecabinwasconsideredtheplaceofhonorbecausethecompanymadeonepayahigherpricefortheprivilegeofitsdiscomfort。Altogetheritwasaveryprettyepitomeofavoyage。
Justasthesteamerpeoplewerepreparingfortheirfirstlanding，theredetacheditselffromthebackgroundoftreesalongtheshorethemostsingularaquaticstructureIthinkIhaveeverseen。
Itlookedliketheskeletonofsomeantediluvianwigwamwhichaprehistoricrochadsubsequentlychosenforanest。Fourpolesplantedinthewaterinclinedtooneanotheratsuchananglethattheycrossedthree-quartersofthewayup。Theprojectingquartersheldinclutchalargewickerbasketlikethecarofaballoon。
Peeringabovethecarwasaman’shead。Astheoccupantbelowslowlyturnedtheheadtokeepaneyeonus，itsuggested，amiditswebofpoles，somemammothspiderlyinginwaitforitsprey。
Itwasamatterofsomewonderatfirsthowthemangotthere，untilthemotionofthesteamerturnedthesideanddisclosedasetofcrosspoleslashedbetweentwooftheuprights，formingarudesortofladder。Curiosity，satisfiedonthisprimarypoint，nextaskedwhyhegotthere。Asthiswasariddletome，IpropoundedittoYejiro，whoonlyshookhisheadandpropoundedittosomebodyelse;
acomplimenttotheinquirycertainly，ifnottomychoiceofinformant。
Thissomebodyelsetoldhimthemanwasfishing。Exceptfortheimmobilityofthefigure，Ineversawamanlooklesslikeitinmylife。
Such，however，wasthefact。Thewigwamwasconnectedbystringstotheentranceofasortofweir，andthemanwhocrouchedinthebasketwasonthelookoutforlargefish，ofakindcalledbora。Assoonasoneofthemstrayedintothemouthofthenet，themanpulledthestringwhichclosedtheopening。Theheightofhisobservatoryabovethelevelofthewaterenabledhimtoseethroughittothenecessarydepth。Iamatriflehazyovertheexactdetailsoftheapparatus，asIneversawafishinquisitiveenoughtogoin;butIsubmittheexistenceofthefishermeninproofthatitworks。
Havingdepositedsuchwightsaswishedtogoashore——fortheplacewasofnopretension——oursteamfishoncemoreturneditstailanddartedusthroughsomenarrowsintoanotherbay。Itmusthavebeenafavoriteonewithbora，asitsshoresweredottedwithfish-lookouts。
Theobservatoriesstoodafewstone-throwsoutindeepishwater，atpresumablyfavorablepoints，andneververynearoneanother，lesttheyshouldinterferewithapossiblecatch。Somewereinhabited，somenot。
ThisbaywasfurtherremarkableforasolarhalowhichIchancedtoseeonglancingupatthesun。Isupposeitwasthesingularqualityofthelightthatfirstcausedmetolookoverhead。Forathinveilofcloudhaddrawnovertheblueandtemperedthesunshinepeculiarly。
Ofcourseoneisfamiliarwithcaricaturesofthethinginmeteorologicalbooks;butthephenomenonitselfisnotsocommon，andtheeffectwasuncanny。AtthefirstglanceitseemedabitofNotowitchery，thatstrangelyluminouscirclearoundthesun。
Toadmirethemoonthusbonneted，astheJapanesesay，iscommonenough，andbefitsthehour。Buttohavethehaloofthenighthungaloftinbroaddayistocrownsobernoonwithenchantment。
Thesheetofwaterwassparselydottedwithsail。OnelittlecraftinparticularIremember，whosecourseboreherstraightdownuponus。
Shedilatedslowlyoutofthedistance，andthenpassedsocloseI
mighthavetossedafloweraboardofher。Sosteadyhermotionsheseemedoblivioustoourpresence，assheglideddemurelybyatrelativelydoubledspeed。
Onlyafterwehadpasseddidsheshowsignsofnoticingusatall。
For，meetingourwake，thecoquette，shesuddenlybegandroppinguscurtseysingood-by。
XI。
Anamidzu。
Weseemedboundthatdaytomeetfreaksinfishing-tackle。Thenextonetoturnupwasakindofcrinoline。ThisstrangethingconfrontedusaswedisembarkedatAnamidzu。Anamidzuwasthelastportintheinlandsea。AftertouchingherethesteamerpassedoutintotheseaofJapanandtiedupforthenightatasmallportontheeasternsideofthenoseofthepeninsula。
Asthetownlayawayfromtheshoreupwhatlookedlikeacanal，weweretransferredtoasmallboattoberowedin。Justaswereachedthebeginningsofthecanalwesawsquattingonthebankanoldcronecontemplating，itseemed，theforlornremainsofahoopskirtwhichdangledfromapolebeforeher，halfinandhalfoutofwater。Thechiefdifferencebetweenthisandthemorecommonarticleofcommercewasmerelyoneofdegree，sinceheretheribsbyquitemeetingatthetopentirelysuppressedthewaist。Theirlowerextremitieswerehidinthewaterandwere，Iwasinformed，baitedwithhooks。
Theoldlady’sattitudewasoneofinimitableapathy;nordidshesomuchasblinkatus，aswepassed。Alittlefartherup，ontheoppositebank，satasimilarbitofstilllife。Athirdbeyondcompletedthepicture。Thesegooddamesborderedthebrinklikesomanymeditativefrogs。ThoughIsawthemforthefirsttimeintheflesh，Irecognizedthematonce。HereweretheidenticalfisherfolkwhohavesatforcenturiesinthepaintingsofTsunenobu，notawhitmoreimmovableinkakemonothaninreallife。Ialmostlookedtofindthemaster’ssealsomewhereinthecornerofthelandscape。
Theworthysoulswere，Iwastold，inkyos;asocial，orratherunsocialstate，whichintheircasemayberenderedunwidoweddowagers;since，incompanywiththeirhusbands，theyhadrenouncedalltheirsocialtitlesandestates。Theirdaughters-in-lawnowdidthedomesticdrudgery，whiletheydevotedtheirdaysthustosport。
Whetheritwerethedames，orthecanal，ormorelikelystill，sometouchofatmosphere，butIwasremindedofHolland。Indeed，Iknownotwhatthespecialoccasionwas。Itisastrangefabricwearesobusyweavingoutofsensations。Letsomethingaccidentallypickupanoldthread，andbehold，withoutrhymeorreason，wearetreatedtoawholepieceofpastexperience。Strangeryetwhenbutthebackgroundisbroughtback。Forwewereunconsciousofthewarpwhilethedetailswereweavingin。Yetreproduceitandallthewoofstartssuddenlytosight。Foratmosphere，likeaperfume，doesghostlyservicetothepast。
ThereissomethinglessmediateinmyremembranceofAnamidzu。Theplacehastomeamemoryofitsownthathangsabouttheroomtheymademineforanhour。Itwascertainlyaprettyroom;surprisinglyso，forsuchanout-of-the-wayspot。Idaresayitwasonlythattomyfellow-voyagerofthesteamer，hurryinghomewardtoWakamatsu。
Icouldhearhiminthenextapartmentmakingmerryoverhismiddaymeal。Tohimtheplacestoodforthelaststageonthejourneyhome。
Buttome，itmeantmore。Itmarkedboththeendofthebeginning，andthebeginningoftheend。ForIhadfixeduponthisspotformyturningpoint。
Itwashighnooninmydayoftravel，likethehighnoonthereoutsidetheopenshoji。Thesiestaofsensationhadcome。Thusfar，thecomingeventshadcasttheirshadowsbeforeandIhadfollowed;
nowtheyhadtouchedtheirzenithhereinmid-Noto。HenceforthI
shouldseethemmovingbackagaintowardtheeast。Thedazzlingsunshinewithoutpointedtheshadewithin，makingeventheroomseemmoreshadowythanitwas。Ibegantofeelcreepingovermethatstrangetouchofsadnessthatattendsthesuprememomentofsuccess，thoughfulfillmentbesotriflingathingasajourney’sbourne。
Greatorlittle，realorfancied，thefeelingisthesameinkind。
Themindseemsstrangelyliketheeye。Satisfysomeemotionithasbeendwellingon，andtherelaxednervesatoncemakeyouconsciousofthecomplementarytint。
ThenotherinnsinJapancameupregretfullyacrossthebluedistanceoftheinterveningyears，middayhalts，whereanhourofdaydreamlaysandwichedinbetweentwohalfdaysoftramp。AndIthoughtofthecompanionsnowsofaraway。Havingheardthetuneinaminorkey，thesecameinaschordsofsomeamplervariation，makingakindofsymphonyofsentiment，whereIwasbroughtbackeverandanontothesimplemotif。Andtheteahousemaidensenteredandwentoutagainlikemutesinmymind’sscene。
Idoubtnotthecountrybeyondisallverycommonplace，butitmightbeanEldoradofromthegildingfancygaveitthen。Iwastoldthehillswerenothigh，andthateighteenmilesonfootwouldlandthetraveleratWakamatsuontheseaofJapan，frontingKorea，butseeingonlythesea，andIfeeltolerablysurethereisnothingtheretorepaythetramp。Whenabackhasbewitchedyouinthestreet，itisafatalfollytotrytoseetheface。Youwillonlybedisillusionedifyoudo。
XII。
AtSeaAgain。
Iwasrousedfrommymid-Notoreveriebytidingsthatourboatwasreadyandwaitingjustbelowthebridge。Thiswasnotthesteamerwhichhadlongsincegoneonitsway，butasmallboatofthecountrywehadsucceededincharteringforthereturnvoyage。Thegoodinn-folk，whohadhelpedinthehiring，hospitablycamedowntothelandingtoseeusoff。
Theboat，likeallJapanesesmallboats，wasinbuildbetweenagondolaandadory，anddatedfromastageintheartofrowingpriortothediscoverythattositisbetterthantostandevenatwork。
Ourswasasmallspecimenofitsclass，thatwemightthequickercompassthevoyagetoNanao，whichtheboatmenaverredtobesixri（fifteenmiles）。Myestimate，promptedperhapsbyinterest，andcertainlyabettedbyignorance，madeitabouthalfthatdistance。
Myargument，conclusiveenoughtomyself，provedsingularlyunshakingtotheboatmen，whowouldneitherabatethepriceinconsequencenordiminishtheirownallowanceofthetimetobetaken。
Theboathadsweepsbothforeandaft，eachletinbyaholeinthehandletoapinonthegunwale。Shewasalsoprovidedwithasailhoistingonasparthatfittedinamidships。Thesailwaslacedvertically：apoint，bytheway，fortellingaJapanesejunkfromaChineseoneatsea，forCathayalwayslaceshorizontally。
Whateverourprivatebeliefsontheprobablelengthofthevoyage，bothcrewandpassengersagreedcharminglyinonehope，namely，thattheremightbeaslittlerowingaboutitaspossible。Ourreasonsforthisdiffered，itistrue;butasneithersidevolunteeredtheirs，thedifferencematterednot。Soweslippeddownthecanal。
Thehoopskirtfisher-dameswerejustwherewehadleftthemsomehoursbefore，andwerestilltoomuchabsorbedindoingnothingtowastetimelookingatus。Iwouldgladlyhavebotheredthemforapeepattheirtraps，butthatitseemedapitytointrudeuponsoengrossingapursuit。Besides，Ifearedtheirapathymightinfectthecrew。Ourmariners，thoughhiredonlyforthevoyage，didnotseemaversetomakingadayofit，asitwas。
Onething，however，Iwasbentonstoppingtoinspect，costwhatitmightindelayordiscipline;andthatwasafish-lookout。Tohaveseenthethingfromasteamer’sdeckmerelywhetteddesireforneareracquaintance。Togratifythewishwasnotdifficult;fortheshorewasdottedwiththemlikeblindlight-housesoffthepoints。Iwasformakingforthefirstvisible，buttheboatmen，withaneyetoeconomyoflabor，pointedoutthattherewasonedirectlyinourpathroundthenextheadland。SoIcurbedmycuriositytillonturningthecorneritcameintoview。Asgoodluckwouldhaveit，itwasinhabited。