Forsomeminutespastastrange，far-awaymusicalnote，likethemurmurofrunningwater，hadstruckmyear，andyetallabouteverythinglookeddead。Ofanimateoreveninanimatepulsationtherewasnosign。OneunbrokensheetofsnowstretchedasfarasIcouldsee，inwhichstoodthegreattreeslikemummies。Stillthesoundcontinued，seemingtocomefromundermyfeet。Istopped，and，kneelingdown，putmyeartothecrust，andthere，asdistinctaspossible，Iheardthewimplingofababybrook，crooningtoitselfunderitsthickwhiteblanket。Herethenwasthecradleofoneofthosestreamsthatlaterwouldbecomesuchanuglycustomertomeet。
Itwasbabilyinnocentnow，andtheonelivingthingbesidemyselfonthisMaydayinthegreatsnow-sheetedsolitude。
Perhapsitwasthebrookthathadunderminedthesnow。Atallevents，soonafterIovertooktheothers，theguide，fearingtotrusttoitfarther，suddenlystruckupagaintotheleft。Weallfollowed，remonstrating。Wehadnosoonergotupthanwewentdownagaintheotherside，andthispicket-fencestyleofprogresscontinuedtillweemergeduponthetopofacertainspur，whichcommandedafineviewofgorges。Unfortunatelyweourselveswereontopofsomeofthem。
Theguidereconnoiteredbothsidesforadescent，pushinghiswaythroughathickgrowthofdwarfbamboo，andbroughtupeachtimeontheedgeofanimpassablefalltothestreambelow。Atlasthetooktothearete。Itwasmaskedbytreesforsomedistance，andthencameoutasabareknifeedgeofrockandearth。Downitwescrambled，tilltheslopetothesidebecamepassable。Thiswasnowmuchlesssteep，althoughstillsteepenoughfortheguidetomakemehaltbehindatree，forfearofthestonesdislodgedbythosebehind。
Thesecamedownpastuslikecannon-balls，ricochettingbybigbounds。
Atthebottomwereachedthestream，andbesideitwehaltedforlunch。Justbelowourrestingplaceanotherstreamjoinedourown，bothcomingdownforbidding-lookingvalleys，shutinbysavagepeaks。
Onthedelta，betweenthewaters，wemadeoutabandofhunters，threeofthem，tarryingafteranunsuccessfulchase。Thislastwasageneralinference，ratherthananobservedfact。
Thespotwasidealforpicturesquepurposes，——thewaterclearascrystal，andthesunshinesparkling。Butotherwisematterswentillwithus。Ourextemporeguidehadpromisedus，overhisownfiretheeveningbefore，asingledayofittoArimine。Ontheroadhisestimateofthetimeneededhadincreasedalarmingly。Fromdirectquestioningitnowappearedthatheintendedtocampoutonthemountainopposite，whosesnowyslopeswerepainfullypropheticofwhatthatnightwouldbe。Besides，thismeantanotherdayofittoArimine;andevenwhenwereachedArimine，wewerenowhere，andIwasscantoftime。Wehadalreadylostthreedays;ifwekepton，I
foresawthelossofmore。Itwasverydishearteningtoturnback，butithadtobedone。
OurobjectnowwastostriketheAshikuratrailandfollowitdown。
Theguide，however，wasnotsureofthepath，sowehailedthehunters。Oneofthemcameacrossthedeltatotheedgeofthestreamwithinshoutingdistance，andfromhimweobtainedknowledgeoftheway。
Atfirstthepathwasunadventurousenough，thoughdistressinglyrough。Intruth，itwasnopathatall;itwasanabstractdirection。Itledstraighton，regardlessoffooting，andwefollowed，nowwadingthroughswamps，nowstumblingoverroots，nowduckingfromwhip-liketwigsthatcutusacrosstheface，untilatlastweemergedabovethestream，anduponasceneasgrandlydesolateasthemostmorbidmisanthropemightwish。Amassofbouldersofallsizes，fromabarntoacobblestone，completelyfilledachasmatthebaseofasemicircularwallofcastellatedclaycliffs。Intothepitwedescended。Thepinnaclesabovewereimpressivelyhigh，andbetweenthemwerecouloirsofdebristhatlookedtoustobeasperpendicularasthecliffs。Uponeofthesebreakneckslidestheguidepointedforourpath。Portersandall，wedemurred。Path，ofcourse，therewasnone;therewasnotevenanapologyforasuspicionthatanyonehadeverbeenupordowntheplace。Wefeltsuretheremustbesomeotherwayout。Themorewesearched，however，thelesswefound。Thestream，whichwasanimpassabletorrent，barredexitbelowonoursidebyrunningstraightintothewallofrock。Theslidewasanuglyclimbtocontemplate，yetwelookedatitsometimebeforeweacceptedtheinevitable。
Whenindesperationwefinallymadeupourminds，webeganpickingourdubiouswayupamongamassofrocksthatthreatenedtobecomeastoneavalancheatanymoment。Noneofuslikedit，butnoneofusknewhowlittletheotherslikedittillthatevening。Intheexpansionofsuccessweadmittedourpastfeelings。Onepoorportersaidhethoughthislasthourhadcome，andmostofusbelievedanearfuturewithoutusnotimprobable。Itshowshowdangerunlockstheheartthatjustbecause，halfwayup，Ihadrelievedthismanofhisstick，whichfromahelphadbecomeahindrance，hefelttowardmeanexaggeratedgratitude。Itwasnothingformetodo，forIwasfree，whilehehadhisload，buthadIreallysavedhislifehecouldnothavebeenmorebeholden。Indeed，itwasatimetointensifyemotion。
Aswescrambledupwardonallfours，theascent，fromfamiliarity，grewlessformidable。Atleastthestonesdecreasedinsize，althoughtheirtiltremainedthesame，buttheanglelookedlesssteepfromabovethanfrombelow。
Atlast，oneaftertheother，wereachedaplacetothesideoftheneckofthecouloir，andscramblingroundthecopingofturfatthetopemerged，tooursurprise，uponapath，orratherupontheghostofone。Forwefoundourselvesuponanarrowridgeofsoilbetweentwochasms，endinginapinnacleofclay，andalongthisribbonoflandranapath，perfectlypreservedforperhapsascoreofpacesout，whenitbrokeoffbodilyinmid-air。Theuntowardlookofthewaywehadcomestoodexplained。Hereclearlyhadbeenacataclysmwithinitinerarytimes。Somegiganticlandslidemusthaveslicedthemountainoffintothegorgebelow，andinsteadofapathwehadbeenfollowingitsstillunlaidphantom。Thenew-borncharacterofthechasmexplaineditsshockingnakedness。Butitwasanuncomfortablesighttoseeapathinallitsentiretyvanishsuddenlyintothevoid。
Theuncutendoftheformertrailledbacktoalittletablelandsupportingapatchoftillingandtenantedbyanuninhabitedhut。
TheWillowMoortheycalledit，thoughitseemedhardlybigenoughtobearaname。Onreconnoitringforthedescent，wefoundthefarthersidefallenawaylikethefirst;sothattheplateauwasnowcutofffromalldecentapproach。Oneofus，atlast，struckthebuttendofapath;butwehadnotgonefardownitbeforeitbrokeoff，anddeliveredustothegullies。Thisside，however，wasmuchbetterthantheother，andittooknoneofusverylongtoslipdowntheslope，repairthebridge，andjointheAshikuratrail。
Wewerenowoncemoreonthepathwehadcomeup，withthecertaintyofbadplacesinsteadoftheiruncertaintyaheadofus，adoubtfulbetterment。TheOnigaJolayinwaitroundthecorner，andtherestofthefamiliardevilswouldallappearinduecourseoftime。
Tiedovermybootswerethestrawsandalsofthecountry。Theywerenotmadetobewornthus，andshowedgreatuneasinessintheirnewposition，dowhatwemightwiththethongs。Everybodytriedhishandatit，firstandlast;butthefidgetythingsalwaysendedbycomingoffatthetoeortheheel，orsluingroundtothesidetilltheywereworsethanuseless。Theyweresupposedtopreventonefromslipping，whichnodoubttheywouldhavedonehadtheynotbegunbyslippingoffthemselves。Theyworethemselvesoutbytheirnervousness，andhadtoberenewedeverylittlewhilefromthestocktheporterscarried。InhonoroftheOnigaJoIhadafreshpairputonbesidethebrooksacredtothememoryofmypocket-handkerchief。WethenrosetotheDevilPlace，andthreadeditinsinglefile。Whetheritwerethecompanionship，orfamiliarity，orsimplythatmyrightsideinsteadofmyleftnextthecliffgavegreaterseemingsecurity，I
gotoveritashademorecomfortablythistime，thoughitwasstillfarfrommyidealofanafternoon’swalk。Theroadtothenextworldbranchedofftoodisturbinglytotheleft。
Atlastthepathdescendedtotheriverbottomforgood。Isatdownonastone，pulledoutmytobaccopouch，andlitapipe。Theporterspassedonoutofsight。ThenItrudgedalongmyself。Thetensionofthelasttwodayshadsuddenlyceased，andintheexpansionofspiritthatensuedIwasconsciousofavoid。Iwantedsomeonewithmethen，perhaps，morethanIevercravedcompanionshipbefore。Thegreatgorgeaboutmelayfilledtothebrimwithpurpleshadow。Idrankinthecoolshade-scentedairateverybreath。Theforest-coveredmountainsides，patchedhigherupwithsnowinthegullies，shutouttheworld。Onlyagildedbithereandthereonsomeloftyspurlingeredtohintasunbeyond。Thestripofpaleblueskyfaroverheadbowedtomeetthevistaofthevalleybehind，avistaofpeaksmoreandmoresnow-clad，tilltheviewwasblockedatlastbyawhite，nun-veiledsummit，flushednow，inthelateafternoonlight，toatenderrose。Paststrainhadleftthespirit，aspastfatigueleavesthebody，exquisitelyconscious;andmyfancycameandwalkedwithmethereinthatlonelyvalley，asitgaveitselfsilentlyintothearmsofnight。
ProbablynoneIknowwillevertreadwhereIwastreadingthen，norI
everbeagaininthatstrangewildcleft，sofaroutoftheworld;
andyet，ifyearshenceIshouldchancetowandertherealoneoncemore，IknowtheghostofthatromancewillrisetomeetmeasIpass。
IownImadenohastetoovertakethecaravan。
DarknessfelluponuswhilewewereyetalongwayfromAshikura，withanuncertaincliffpathbetweenusandit：forthepath，likeatruemountaintrail，hadthepassionforclimbingdevelopedintoamania，andcouldneverrestcontentwiththeriver’sbedwheneveritspiedachancetorise。Ithadjustmanagedanascentupazigzagstairwayofitsowninvention，andhadsteppedoutinthedarkuponapatchoftallmountaingrass，asdryasstraw，whenYejiroconceivedthebrilliantideaoftorches。HehadlearnedthetrickintheHakonehills，whereitwasthehabit，hetoldtheguide，whencaughtoutatnight;andheproceededtorollsomeofthegrassintolongwispsforthepurpose。Thetorcheswereremarkablypicturesque，anddidusservicebeside。Theirruddyflare，bowingtothebreeze，butonlyburningthemoremadlyforitsthwarting，lightedthepathlikenoondaythroughacircleoffifteenfeet，anddroppedbrands，stillflaring，intothestubble，whichwefeltitacaseofconsciencetostopandstampout。Thecircle，smallasitwas，sufficedtodiscloseayawninggulfontheside，towhichthepathclungwiththepersistencyofinfatuation。
Thefirstthingtotellusofapproachtohumanhabitationwasthecroakingofthefrogs。AfterthewildnessofourdayitsoundedlikesomelullabyofMotherEarth，speakingofhearthandhome，andweknewthatwewerecomebacktoricefieldsandman。Itwasanotherhalfhour，however，beforeourprocessionreachedtheoutskirtsofthevillage。Herewethrewasideourtorches，andinaweary，drawn-outfilefoundourway，onebyone，intothecourtyardoftheinn。Itwasnotaninntheyearround;itbecamesuchonlyatcertainseasons，ofwhichthepresentwasnotone。IthadthehabitofputtinguppilgrimsontheirwaytotheDragonPeak;betweenthetimesofitspiousofficesitrelapsedintoasimplefarmhouse。
Buttheownerreceivedusnonethelesskindlyforourinopportuneappearance，andhastedtobringthewater-tubsforourfeet。NeverwasImorewillingtositonthesillamomentanddabblemytoes;
forIwasfootsoreandweary，andgladtobeonman’slevelagain。
Ipromiseyou，wewereallveryhumanthatevening，andfeltadealaloud。
XVIII。
AGenialInkyo。
Theownerofthefarmhousehadinheriteditfromhisfather。Therewasnothingveryoddaboutthiseventoourother-worldnotionsofproperty，exceptthatthefatherwasstillliving，ashaleandheartyasyouplease，inalittledenatthefootofthegarden。Hewas，inshort，whatisknownasaninkyo，orone\"dwellinginretirement，\"——asingularstate，composedofequalpartsofthisworldandthenext;
likedyingintheory，andthenundertakingtoliveoninpractice。
Foraninkyoisamanwhohasformallyhandedinhisresignationtothecommunity，andyetcontinuestoexistmostenjoyablyinthemidstofit。Hehasabdicatedinfavorofhiseldestson，and，havingputoffallresponsibilities，isfiliallysupportedinalifeofeaseandpleasure。
Inspiteofbeingnolongerinsociety，thefatherwasgreedilysocial。
Assoonasheheardaforeignerhadarrived，hetrottedovertocall，andnothingwoulddobutImustvisithisnicheearlyinthemorning，beforegoingaway。
Afterbreakfast，therefore，thesondulycametofetchme，andwestartedoffthroughthegarden。Forhissire’splaceofretirementlayawayfromtheroad，towardtheriver，thatthedearoldgentlemanmightcommandaviewofthepeaksopposite，ofoneofwhich，calledtheEtchiuFuji，fromitsconicalform，hewasdotinglyfond。
Itwasanexpeditiongettingthere。Thisarose，notfromanyspecialfaultinthepath，whichforthefirsthalfofthewayconsistedofastringofstepping-stonesneatlylaidintheground，andforthelatterfractionofnoworsemudthancouldeasilybemetwithelsewhere。Thetroublecamefromamisunderstandinginfoot-gear。
Itseemedtooshortawalktoputone’sbootstwiceonandoffforthedoingofit。Ontheotherhand，towalkinstocking-feetwasoutofthequestion，forthemud。SoIattemptedacompromise，consistingofmysocksandthenativewoodenclogs，andtriedtomaketheonetakekindlytotheother。Butmymittenlikesockswouldhavenoneofmythongs，and，failingofagripformytoes，compelledmetoscufflealonginaveryundignifiedway。Theneveryfewstepsoneortheotheroftheclogssawfittostaybehind，andIhadtohalttorecoverthedelinquent。ImadeasorryspectacleasIscrewedaboutontheremainingshoe，gropingafteritsfellow。OnceIwascaughtintheactbymycicerone，whoturnedroundinopportunelytoseewhyIwasnotfollowing;andtwiceinattemptingthefeatIallbutlostmybalanceintothemud。
Theworthyvirtuoso，ashewas，metusatthedoor，andescortedusupstairstoseehistreasures。Theroomwastapestriedwithallmannerofworksofart，ofwhichhewasjustlyproud，whilethehouseitselfstoodcopiedfromaChinesemodel，forhewasveryclassic。
ButIwaspleasedtofindthataboveallhisheartwasgiventotheview。Itwasshared，asIalsodiscovered，bythetea-ceremonies，inwhichhewasaproficient;suchamixtureisman。ButIbelievetheviewtohavebeenthedeeperaffection。WhileIwasadmiringit，hefetchedfromacupboardaverysuspicious-lookingbottleofwhatturnedouttobehoney，andpressedaglassofituponme。Idulysippedthisnotinappropriateliquor，sincecordialssavorofasceticism，andthisonebeingofnaturaldecoctionpeculiarlybefittedasecularanchorite。ThenItookmyleaveofonewho，thoughnolongerintheworld，wasstillsocharminglyofit。
Thegoodsoulchancedtobeawidower，butsuchbereavementisnonecessarypreliminarytobecominga\"dwellerinretirement。\"
Sometimesamanenterstheinkyostatewhilehestillhaswithhimthehelpmateofhisyouth，andthetwogotogethertothisaftermathoflife。Surelyaprettyreturn，this，ofthehoneymoon！DarbyandJoanstartingoncemorehandinhand，aloneinthisIndiansummeroftheirlove，astheydidyearsagoinitsspring-tide，beforeothergenerationsoftheirownhadpushedthemontolessromanticparts;
Darbycomebackfrompaternalcarestobeoncemorethelover，andJoanfrommotherandgrandamagainbecomehisgirl。
Wepartedfromourwatchman-guideandhalfourporterswithmuchfeeling，asdidtheyfromus。Asfriendshipsgowehadnotknownoneanotherlong，butintimacyisnotmeasuredbytime。Circumstanceshadthrownusintooneanother’sarms，and，aswebadegood-byfirsttooneandthentoanother，weseemedtobeseveringatiethattouchedveryneartheheart。
Twooftheporterscameonwithus，asmuchforloveasformoney，asfarasKamiichi，whereweweretogetkuruma。Alongtrampwehadofitacrossleaguesofricefields，andforapartofthewaybesidealarge，deepcanal，finelyboweredintrees，andflowingwithaswift，darkcurrentlikesomehugeboawindingstealthilyunderthebamboo。
ItwasthearterytoIknownothowmanysquaremilesoffield。
Wecameinforasteadydrizzleafterthis，anditwaslongpastnoonbeforewetouchedournoontidehalt，andstalkedatlastintotheinn。
Withgreatdifficultywesecuredthreekuruma，——theplacestoodonthelimitsofsuchlocomotion，——andacrowdsodensecollectedaboutthemthatitblockedthewayout。Everybodyseemedsmittenwithadesiretoseethestrangers，whichgavetheinnservants，byvirtueoftheircalling，anenviabledistinctiontovillageeyes。Buttheportersstoodhighestinregard，bothbecauseoftheirmoreintimatetietousandbecauseweherepartedfromthem。Itwasseveringthefinallinktothenowhappypast。Weallfeltit，andtoldourrosaryofmemoriesinthought，Idoubtnot，eachtohimself，aswewentoutintotheworlduponourdifferentways。
EightmilesinarainbroughtustotheroadbywhichwehadenteredEtchiusomedaysbefore，andthatnightwesleptatMikkaichioncemore。Onthemorrowmorningtheweatherfaired，andtowardmiddaywewereagainfacingthefringeofbreakersfromthecliffs。
Themountainspurslookedthegrimmerthatwenowknewthemsowellbyrepulse。Theairwasclearerthanwhenwecame，andaswegazedoutovertheoceanwecouldseeforthefirsthalfdaythefaintcoastlineofNoto，stretchingtowarduslikeanarmalongthehorizon。
Wewatcheditatintervalsaslongasitwasrecognizable，andwhenatlastitvanishedbeyondevenimagination’spowertoconjureup，feltastrangepangofpersonalregret。Theseathatsnatchesawaysomanylandsatpartingseemsfitlyinhumantothedeed。
InthecourseofthesetwodaystwothingshappenedwhichpointedcuriouslytotheisolationofthispartofJapan。Thefirstwasthenearmeetingwithanotherforeigner，whichwouldseemtoimplypreciselythecontrary。ButtheunwontedexcitementintowhichtheeventthrewYejiroandmewasproofenoughofitsstrangeness。
ItwaswhileIwassippingtea，waitingforafreshrelayofkurumaatNamerigawa，thatYejirorushedintoannouncethatanotherforeignerwasrestingataninnalittlefurtheruptown。HehadarrivedshortlybeforefromtheEchigoside，reportsaid。Thepassingofroyaltyorevenacircuswouldhavebeentamenewsincomparison。
OfcourseIhastenedintomybootsandsalliedforth。Ididnotcallonhimformally，butIinspectedthefrontoftheinninwhichhewassaidtobe，withpeculiarexpectationofspirit，inspiteofmyaffectedunconcern。Hewas，Ibelieve，aGerman;buthenevertookshape。
Thesecondeventoccurredthenextevening，andwasevenmoresingular。
Likethedodoitchronicledsurvival。Itwasmanifestedinthepersonofapoliceman。
SometimeafterourarrivalattheinnYejiroreportedthatthepoliceofficerwishedtoseeme。Themanhadalreadyseentheimportantpartofme，thepassport，andIwasatalosstoimaginewhatmorehecouldwant。SoYejirowassentbacktoinvestigate。
Hereturnedshortlywithasadcaseofconcernforconsideration，andhehardlykepthisfaceashetoldit。Theconscientiousofficer，itseemed，wishedtosleepoutsidemyroomformyprotection。
Fromthepassporthefelthimselfresponsibleformysafety，andhadconcludedthattheleasthecoulddowouldbenottoleavemeforamoment。Iassuredhim，throughYejiro，thathisofferwasmostthoughtful，butunnecessary。Butwhatanout-of-the-worldcornerthethoughtimplied，andwhatafinefossilthegoodsoulmusthavebeen！
Herewassurvivalwithanemphasis！Themanhadsleptsoundlythroughtwentyyearsormoreofchange，andwasstillinthepre-foreigndaysofthefeudalages。
Thepricesofkuruma，too，werepleasinglybehindthetimes。Theywerebuttwo-fifthsofwhatweshouldhavehadtopayonthesoutherncoast。AsweadvancedtowardShinshiu，however，thepricesadvancedtoo。Indeed，theoneadvanceaccuratelymeasuredtheother。Weweregettingbackagainintotheworld，itwaspainfullyevident。Atlastfaresrosetosixcentsari。Beforetheycouldmounthigherwehadtakenrefugeinthetrain，andwerehurryingtowardZenkojibysteam。
OurobjectivepointwasnowthedescentoftheTenriugawarapids。
Itwasnottheshortestwayhome，butitwaspartofourprojecteditineraryandtookusthroughacountrytypicaloftheheartofJapan。Itbeganwithafinesuccessionofpasses。TheseIhadoncetakenonajourneyyearsbeforewithafriend，andaswestartednowupthefirstone，theSarugaBambanotoge，Itriedtomakethenewimpressionfittheoldremembrance。Butmanhadbeenatworkupontheplacewithout，andimaginationstillmoreuponitspicturewithin。Itwasanothertogeweclimbedinthelightofthatlatter-dayafternoon。Withthecompaniontheoldhadpassedaway。
Leavingtheotherstofollow，Istarteddownthezigzagsonthefartherside。Itwasalreadydusk，andthesteepnessoftheroadandthebrisknightairsentmeswingingdowntheturnswithsomethingoftheanchor-likeescapementofawatch。MidwayIpassedasolitarypedestrian，whowastrollingtohimselfdownthedescent;andwheninturnhepassedme，asIwaswaitingunderatreefortheotherstocatchup，heeyedmesuspiciously，asonewhosewanderingswerequestionable。Theywerecertainlyquestionabletomyself，forbythattimewewerecometohabitations，andeachfreshlightIsawI
tookforthevillagewhereweweretostopforthenight，inspiteofrepeateddisillusionings。
Overhead，thelargerstarscameoutandwinkedatme，andthen，asthefieldsofspacebecamemoreandmorelightedwithstar-points，thehearth-firestootherhomesofworlds，Ithoughthowlocal，afterall，isthegreatconeofshadowwemencallnight;foritisonlynature’snightcapforthenoddingearth，assheturnsherheadawayfromthesuntoliepillowedinspace。
Thenextdaywasnotablechieflyfortheup-and-downcharacterofthecountryevenforJapan;whichwasexcelledonlybytheunhesitatingacceptanceofitonthepartoftheroad，andthisinitsturnonlybythecrowdsthattraveledit。Itseemedthatthedesiretogoincreasedinverselyasthedifficultyingoing。Thewayfarersweremostsociablefolk，andforapeoplewithwhompersonalityisatadiscountsingularlygiventopersonalities。Notamanwhohadadecentchancebutaskedwhitherweweregoingandwhencewehadcome。
Tothefirsthalfofthecountry-sideweconfidedsomuchofourprivatehistory;tothesecondwecontentedourselvesinsaying，withelaboratecourtesy，\"Thesameassixyearsago，\"ananswerwhichsoundedpolite，andrenderedthesurprisedquestionerspeechlessforthetimewetooktopass。
Especiallythewomenaddedtothepicturesquenessofthelandscape。
Theirheadsdoneupingay-coloredkerchiefs，framingtheirroundandrosyfaces，theirkitslungovertheirshoulders，andtheirkimonotuckedinattheirwaists，theytrudgedalongonusefulpairsofanklesneatlycasedinlavendergaiters。Somefolloweddutifullybehindtheirhusbands;otherschattedalongincompanywiththeirkind，——memberstheselastofsomepilgrimassociation。
Therewerewayfarers，too，oflesshappymind。Foroverthelastpasstheauthoritieswerebuildinganewroad，andlonglinesofpink-coatedconvictsmarchedtoandfroatworkuponit，underthesurveillanceofthedark-bluepolice;andthesightmademethinkhowlittlethemomentarylivingcountsintheactuallife。Herewewere，twosetsofmen，doingforthetimeanidenticalthing，trudgingalongamountainpathinthefreshMayair;andyettotheonethedayseemedallsunshine，totheothernothingbutcloud。
XIX。
OurPassportandtheBasha。
Itwasboundtocome，andweknewit;itwasonlyaquestionoftime。
Butthenwehadbravedthelawsofarsowell，wehadalmostcometobelievethatweshouldescapealtogether。Imeanthefataldetectionbythepolicethatwewereviolatingmypassport。Thatdocumenthadalreadyoutrunthestatuteoflimitations，andleftmenobetterthananoutlaw。Forpracticalpurposesmycharacterwasgone，andbeingthusself-convictedImightbearrestedatanymoment！
Inconsequenceofpendingtreatynegotiationsthegovernmenthadbecomeparticularabouttheprivilegesitgranted。Oneofthefirstcounter-movestoforeigninsistenceonexterritorialitywastherestrictingofpassportstoafortnight’stime。Youmightlayoutanytouryouchose，andifgrantedbythegovernment，theprovincesdesignatedwouldallbedulyinscribedinyourpassport，butyouhadtocompassthemallinthefortnightorbepunished。Ofcoursethiscouldbeevaded，andaJapanesefriendintheforeignofficehadkindlypromisedtosendmeanextensionontelegraph。ButthedislikeofbeingtiedtotimesandplacesmademesinfullyprefertheriskofbeingmarchedbacktoTokyounderthechargeofapoliceman，afateIhadseenovertakeoneortwoothermalefactorscaughtatsomewhatdifferentcrimes，whomwehadcasuallymetontheroad。
TheHarinokitogewaslargelytoblameforthedelay，itistrue。
ButthenunluckilytheHarinokitogecouldnotbearrested，andIcould。
Thebespectacledauthoritieswhoexaminedmycredentialseverynighthadhithertowinkedatmyguilt，sothattheboltfelluponusfromaclearsky。Itisalmostquestionablewhetherithadarighttofallatthatmomentatall。Itwascertainlyacaseofofficiousofficialdom。Forwehadstoppedsimplytochangekuruma，andtheunwrittenruleoftheroadrunsthatsolongasthetravelerkeepsmovingheissafe。Tocatchhimnappingatnightistherecognizedcustom。
Besides，thepolicemighthavechosen，evenbyday，someotheropportunitytolightuponusthanintheverythickofourwrestlewiththeextortionatepricesoffreshkuruma。Itwasinconsiderateofthem，tosaytheleast;fortheattacknaturallythrewusintoacertaindisreputenotcalculatedtocheapenfares。Then，too，ourobvioushastehelpedfurnishcircumstantialevidenceofcrime。
Nevertheless，intheverymidstofthesedifficultnegotiationsatMatsumoto，evilfatepresenteditself，clothedasapoliceman，anddemandedourpapers。Luckilytheywerenotattheverybottomofthebaggage，butinYejiro’sbosom;forotherwiseoureffectswouldhavebecomeapublicshow，andcollectedanevengreatercrowdthanactuallygathered。Thearmofthelawtookthepassport，fellatonceontheindefensibledate，andpointeditouttous。Therewewere，caughtintheact。Wesankseveraldegreesinstantlyineverybody’sestimation。
HowweescapedisasecretoftheJapaneseforce;forescapewedid。
Weadmittedourmisfortunetothepoliceman，andexpressedourselvesasevenmoredesirousofgettingbacktoTokyothanhecouldbetohaveusthere。ButwepointedoutthatnowtheTenriugawawastoallintentsasshortawayasany，andfurthermorethatitwastheoneexpresslynominatedinthebond。Thepolicemanstoodperplexed。
Outofdoubtorcourtesy，orboth，hehesitatedforsomemoments，andthenreluctantlyhandedthepassportback。Westoodacquitted。
Indeedwewerenotonlysufferedtoproceed，andthatinourownway，butheactuallyacceleratedmattershimself，forheturnedtoagainstthekuruma，totheirinstantdiscomfiture。Indeed，thiswasquiteasitshouldbe，forhewasasanxioustoberidofusasweweretobequitofhim。
Ontheroadthekurumaprovedunruly。Theexposurewehadsustainedmayhavehelpedtothis，orthecoercionofthepolicemanmayhaveworkedrevolt。Theyjoggedalongmoreandmorereluctantly，till，atlast，theworstofthemrefusedtogoonatall。Aftersomequiteuselessaltercation，wemadewhatshiftwemightwiththeremainder，buthadnotgotfarwhenweheardthetootofafish-hornbehind，andthesoundgraduallyoverhauledus。Now，afish-hornonacountryroadinJapanmeansabasha，andabashameanstheembodimentoftheobjectionable。Itisavehicletobeavoided;bothexternallylikeafire-engine，andinternallylikeanambulanceorahearse。Indeed，sofarasitsvictimisconcerned，itusuallyendsbybecomingacrossbetweenthelattertwo。Itisamachineabsolutelydevoidofrecommendations。Ispeakfromexperience，forinamomentofadventureIoncetookpassageinone，someyearsago，andInevermeantodosoagain。Eventhesoundofitsfish-hornnowprovokesmetoevilthoughts。Butwewereinabadway，and，tomywonder，Ifoundmysentimentsperceptiblysoftening。Beforethethingcaughtupwithus，Ihadactuallyresolvedtotakeit。
Wemadesignalsofdistress，and，rathercontrarytomyexpectation，themachinestopped。Thedriverpulledup，andtheguard，ahalf-grownboy，whosatnexthimontheseatinfront，makingmelodyonthehorn，jumpeddown，astrangebundleofconsequenceandcourtesy，andhelpedusandourbelongingsin。Hethenswunghimselfintohisseat，asthebashasetoffagain，andfelltotootingvociferously。Wehadscarcegotsettledbeforethevehiclewasdashingalongatwhatseemed，toourlateperambulatorexperience，aperfectlybreakneckspeed。Thepaceandtheenthusiasmoftheboyinfectedus。YejiroandIfelltocongratulatingeachother，withsomefervor，onourchangeofconveyance，andeachtimewespoke，theboywhiskedroundinhisseatandcriedout，withaknowingwagofhishead，\"Itellyou，it’sfast，abasha！He！\"andthenassuddenlywhiskedbackagain，andfelltotootingwithrenewedvigor，likeonewhohadbeenmomentarilyderelictinduty。Theroadwasquitedeserted，sothatsomuchnoisewouldhaveseemedunnecessary。Theboythoughtotherwise。Meanwhile，wewerebeingfrightfullyjolted，andoccasionallyslungroundcornersinawaytomakeholdingonapainfullabor。
Isupposetheunwontedspeedmusthaveintoxicatedus。Thereisnothingelsethatwillaccountforourlossofhead。For，beforewewerewelloutofthemachine，wehadbegunnegotiationsforitsexclusivepossessiononthemorrow;andbythetimewewerefairlyinstalledintheinnatShiwojiri，thebargainstoodcomplete。
Inconsiderationofnoexorbitantsum，thevehicle，withallappertainingthereto，wastobetakenoffitsregularrouteandwander，likeanytramp，atoursweetwill，inquiteacontrarydirection。Theboywiththehornwasexpresslyincludedinthelease。Bythisarrangementwehopedtocompasstwodays’journeyinone，andreachbythemorrow’snightthepointwhereboatsaretakenforthedescentoftheTenriugawarapids。Weknewthedrivewouldbepainful，butwehadeverypromisethatitwouldbefast。
TheinnatShiwojiripossessedaforeigntableandchairs;abitoffurnishingfromwhichthefreshnessofsurpriseneverworeoff。Whatwasevenlesstobelookedfor，thesonofthehousewasproficientinEnglish，havingstudiedwithamissionaryinTokyo。Ihadsometalkwithhimlater，andlenthimanEnglishclassicwhichheshowedgreatdesiretosee。
Betimesthenextmorningthebashaappeared，bothdriverandguardgotupinafinedark-greenuniform，asprucenessitmuchtickledourvanitytomark。Withafeelingakintoprincelypridewesteppedin，thedrivercrackedhiswhip，and，amidthebowsoftheinnhousehold，wewentoffupthestreet。Barringthelossofanumbrella，whichhadhappenedsomewherebetweenthetimeweboardedthebashaontheyestereenandthehourofdeparturethatmorning，andanexhaustivebutvainhuntforthesame，firstinthevehicleandthenatthestables，nothingmarredtheserenityofourfirsthalfhour。Theskywasdreamy;adelicateblueseenthroughagoldengauze。IfancyitwassuchaskywithwhichDanaefellinlove。WeroseslowlyuptheShiwojiripass，whichanewroadenabledeventhebashatodoquitecomfortably;andthesouthernpeaksoftheHida-Shinshiurangerosetocorrespondacrossthevalley，thesnowlinedistinctlyvisible，thoughthenearerrangesdidtheirbesttocutitoff。Norikura，theSaddle，especially，showedafinebitofitstenthousandfeet，wrappedintheindistinctnessofthespringhaze。Theheavyairgavealookofslumbertothepeaks，asifthosesummits，wakedbeforetherestoftheworld，hadalreadygrowndrowsy。Wehadnotyetceasedgazingatthemwhenaturnoftheroadshutthemout。Ariseofafewfeet，adip，aturn，andthelakeofSuwalaybelowusontheotherside，flankedbyitsownmountains，throughagapinwhichshowedthejustperceptibleconeofFuji。
TheShiwojiritogeisnotahighpass，andyetitdoesdutyaspartofagreatdivide。Adropofwater，fallingontheShiwojiriside，ifitchancetomeetwithotherdropsbeforeitbesnatchedupagainintothesky，wandersintotheseaofJapan;whileitsfellow，comingtoearthnotayardaway，endsatlastinthePacificocean。Ourwaynowlaywiththelatter。FortheTenriugawa，orRiveroftheHeavenlyDragon，takesitsriseinthelakeofSuwa，abowlofwateracoupleofmilesormoreacross。Ittricklesoutinsignificantlyenoughatoneend;gathersstrengthforfiftymilesofflow，andthenforanotherhundredcutsitswaycleanacrossarangeofmountains。
Howitevergotthroughoriginally，andwhy，areinterestingmysteries。Itsgorgeisnowfromonetotwothousandfeetdeep，cleft，notthroughaplateau，butthroughtheaxisofamountainchain。Inmostplacesthereisnotayardtospare。
Wewerestilladoubtfuldayofffromwhereitiscustomarytotakeaboat。Wehadstartedsomewhatlate，stoppedforthelackofumbrella，andnowwerecommittedtoadigressionforlettersIexpectedatShimonosuwa。IneverordermyletterstomeetmeonthelineofmarchbutIbitterlyrepenthavingchosenthatspecialspot。
Thereisalwayssomeexcellentreasonwhyitturnsoutmostinconvenient。ButasyetIwashopeful，forIthoughtIknewthespeedofthebasha，andthedaywasstillyoung。
ThedayhadgrownolderandIwiserbythetimemyletterswereread，withtheirstrangeperfumefromoutre-mer，thehorsesharnessedafresh，andweunderwayoncemore，clatteringdownthemainstreetofthevillage。Itwasnotonlyinthevillagethatwemadeastir。
Abashaisequaltotheoccasionanywhere。Thewholecountrysidestoppedinitstrackstoturnandstareaswepassed，andatonepointwecameinforaperfectovation;forourpassageandthenoondayrecessofaschoolhappeningtocoincide，thechildren，atthatmomentletloose，instantlydashedafteruspell-mell，inamass，shouting。Oneortwoofthemweresoeagerinthechasethattheymindednotwheretheywent，and，trippingoverstonesorruts，fellheadlonginthemud。Therestpursueduspanting，eachaccordingtohislegs，andgaveoveratlastonlyforwantofwind。
Theguardwassupremelyhappy。Whattimetheupperhalfofhimwastootiredtotootthelowerhalfspentinhoppingoffhisseatandonagainuponimaginaryduty。Meanwhile，inspiteofenlivenmentsnotincludedinthebill，myolddislikewasslowlybutsurelycomingback。Ibegantobeuneasyonthescoreoftime。Thespeedwasnotwhathopeandthecompanyhadledmetoexpect。Iwentthroughsomeelaboraterule-of-threecalculationbetweenthedistance，thespeed，andthetime;and，asfarasIcouldmakeout，itbegantolookquestionablewhetherweshouldarrivethatnightatall。Ihadalreadyplayedthepartofgoadoutofprecaution;Inowhadtotaketoitingoodearnest，——futiley，toboot。Meanwhilemybodywasasuneasyasmymind。Inthefirstplace，theseatsfacedsideways，sothatweprogressedafterthefashionofcrabs。Secondly，thevehiclehardlymadeapologiesforsprings。Wewererattledaboutlikeparchedcorninahopper。
Whatablessedtrickofmemorythat，ofwinnowingthejoysoftravelfromitsdiscomforts，andlettingthelatterslipunconsciouslyaway！
Thedustandtheheatandthethousandpettyannoyancespasswiththefacttobeforgotten，whilethesnow-hoodedmountainsandthedeepblueskyandthesmilingfieldsstaywithus，apartofourselves。
ThatdriveseemsgoldenasIlookbackuponit;yethowsadlydiscomfortingitwasatthetime！
Towardafternoonarumorbecamecurrentthattheroadhadbeenwashedawayahead，andthatthebashawouldhavetostopsomemilesshortofwherewehadhopedtobethatnight。Thiswasdisheartening。
Forwithallitsshortcomingsthebashawasundeniablyfasterthanperambulators。Therumorgatheredsubstanceasweadvanced，untilinconsequenceweceasedtoadvanceatall。Atacertainvillage，calledMiyada，thebashadrewup，andwewereinformedthatitwasimpossibletoproceedfurther。
Therewasnothingforitbuttohirekuruma。Themenwerearascallylot，andmadegainofournecessity。Butwewerenotassorrytoleavethebashaaswemighthavebeen，andthereportsofimpassabilitysubstantiatedthemselvesbeforewehadgotamileout。
Infurtherconsolation，thekurumamenturnedoutwellontheroad，andbowledusalongrightmerrily。Theroadranalongtheskirtsofthemountainsontheright，whichfellinonelongsweeptotheriver，abreadthofplainunexpectedlygoredbystreams。Thecanonswerestartlinglyabrupt，andthedarknesswhichnowcameontooknothingfromtheeffect。Asuddenzigzagdowntoadepthofahundredfeet，acarefulhitchingoveradecrepitbridge，andazigzaguptheotherside，andwewereoffatagoodtrotagain。Thisdispatchonthepartofthemenbroughtusinmuch-improvedspiritsandinverygoodtimeintoIijima，ourhoped-forgoal。
XX。
DowntheTenriugawa。
Wehadmadearrangementsovernightforaboat，notwithoutdifficulty，andinthemorningwestartedinkurumaforthepointofembarkation。
Wewereeagertobeoffuponourvoyage，elseweshouldhavestrolledafootdownthelongmeadowslope，suchinvitationlayinit，thedewsparklingonthegrassblades，thefreshlytilledearthscentingtheair，andthelarksrisinglikerocketsupintotheskyandburstingintosongastheywent。Itseemedtheessenceofspring，andwehadamileormoreofitallbeforewereachedthebrinkofthecanon。
Forevenheretheriverhadbegunagorgeforitselfthroughtheplain。Weleftourjinrikishaatthetopandzigzaggedonfootdownthesteepdescent，andstraightwaydepartedtheupperlifeoffieldsandlarksandsunshineforanewandsemi-subterraneanone。Itwasnotsimplyachangeofscene;itwasacompletechangeofsphere。
Theworldwithitsfaceopentothedayinatwinklinghadceasedtobe，andanotherworld，aworldofdarkwatergirtbyshadowedwallsofrockandtrees，hadtakenitsplace。
Amidfarewellwavingsfromthejinrikishamenwepushedoffintothestream。Inspiteoftherushofthewaterandthecreakingoftheoars，astrangestillnesshadfallenoneverything。Theswirling，inkyfloodsweptusonpastthehushedbanks，heightsofmotionlessleavesnearlyhidingthegrayoldrock。Occasionallysomepuffofwindmoreadventurousthanitsfellowsswoopeddowntomaketheleavesquiveramoment，andthendiedawayinawe，whilehereandthereabirdflewinandoutamongthebrancheswithstrangelysubduedtwitter。
Althoughthispartoftherivercouldshowitsgorgeanditsrapids，itmadeonlytheprefacetothatchapterofitsbiographywehadcometoread。AtTokimata，somehoursfurtherdown，beginsthevoyageproper。Buteventheprefacewasimposing。Theblackwaterglidedsinuousalong，itsstealthycourseeverynowandagaininterruptedbyrapids，wherethesullenfloodlasheditselftoapassionofwhitecapswithakindofhissingroar。Downtheseweshot，theboatbowingfirstinacquiescence，andthenplungingasmadlyasthewateritself。Itwashardtobelievethatbothboatandriverwerenotsentientthings。
Atintervalswemetotherboatstoilingslowlyupstream，pulledlaboriouslybymenwhostrainedalongthebankattheendsofhundredsoffeetoftow-rope，theropesthemselvesinvisibleatfirstfordistance;sothatwewereawareonlyofmenwalkingalongtheshoreinattitudesofimpossibleequilibrium，andofboatsthatfollowedthemdoglikefrompureaffection。Itwouldseemwearyworkevenforcanal-boating。Ittakesweekstotoilupwhatitoncetookonlyhourstofloatdown。Aswespedpastthereturnconvoys，weseemedsadprofligates，thuswantonlytobesquanderingsuchdearly-wonvantageofposition。Thestreamwhichmeantmoneytothemwas，likemoney，hardcomeandeasygo。
Stillthestreamhurrieduson。Wehuggedthecliffs，nowononeside，nowontheother，onlytohavethemslipbyusthequicker。
Bendafterbendopened，spreadout，andclosed。Thescenechangedeveryminute，andyetwasalwaysthesame。Thenattimeswewerevouchsafedopeningsinthesurroundinghills，narrowbitsofforeground，hintsofasomethingthatexistedbeyond。
Forthreehoursandmorewekeptoninourserpentinecourse，fortherivermeanderedaswhimsicallyasifitstillhadachoiceofitsowninthematter。Thengraduallythelandaboutbegantomakeoverturestowardsociability。Thetreesonthebanksdisappeared，thebanksthemselvesdecreasedinheight;thentherivertooktoamoregenialflow，andpresentlywewerewareofthewholecountrysidetotherightcomingdowninonelongsweeptothewater’sedge。
Theprefacewasover。Thestreamwastohaveabreathingspellofairandsunlightbeforeitsgreatplungeintosixtymilesoftwilightcanon。Withaquickturnofhisrudderoartheboatmaninthesternbroughttheflat-bottomedcraftround，andinajiffyshelaybeachedontheshingleatTokimata。Itwasnowhighnoon。
Thegreaterpartofthevillagekindlysuperintendedtheoperationofdisembarking，andthenthemoreactiveofitsinhabitantstrottedbeforeasguidestotheinn。Forourboatwouldgonofurther，andthereforeallourbelongingshadtocomeout。Itwasonlywhenweinquiredforfurtherconveyancethatthecrowdshowedsignsofsatietyandedgedoff。Toourimportunitiesonthisheadthepopulacewerestatuesqueorworse。AJapaneseassentisnotalwaysthemostencouragingofreplies，andaJapanese\"No\"touchesinyouadepthnotunlikedespair。Theyhaveawayofhintingtheutterhopelessnessofyourwish，past，present，andtocome，aneternityofimpossibilitytomakeyouregretthatyoueverwereborn。Afterwehadreachedtheinn，andhadstatedourwantstoamoreinformedaudience，weweretoldthatthenauticalpartoftheinhabitantswereinthefields，gatheringmulberryleavesforthesilkworms。Fromthebribeweofferedtoinduceachangeinpursuit，wejudgedmoneytobenoobjecttothem。Thereremainednothing，therefore，butthepolice。
Itisgoodpolicynevertoinvokethelawexceptinthelastextremity，foryouareprettysafetohavesomeflawshownupinyoubeforeyouarethroughwithit。Thelawinthiscasewasrepresented，Yejirofound，byapersonstillyellowwiththejaundice。Hemetthedemandforboatmenwiththecounterdemandforthepassport，andwhenthiswasproducedhisofficialeyeatoncedetecteditsanachronism。
\"This，\"saidhe，\"isnotinorder。Idonotseehowyoucangoonatall。\"
Toaddartificialimpossibilitytonatural，wastoomuch。Yejiroansweredthathehadbettercometotheinn;whichheaccordinglydid。Poorman！Ipitiedhim。For，inthefirstplace，hewasstilljaundiced;and，inthesecond，althoughconsciousofguiltasIwas，Iwasmuchthelessdisturbedofthetwo。Iwasgettingusedtobeingaself-smuggler;whilehe，astheJapanesesay，was\"taihenkomarimasu\"（exceedingly\"knownotwhattodo\"），aphrasewhichisanationalcomplaint。Inthisinstancehehadcause。Whattodowithsohardenedasinnerwasaproblempassinghispowers。Herewasalaw-breakerwhobyrightsshouldatoncebebundledbacktoTokyounderpolicesurveillance。Buthecouldnotgohimself，hehadnoonetosend，andfurthermorethedelinquentseemedonlytoowillingtoescorthimselfthere，freeofgovernmentexpense，asspeedilyaspossible。AllIhadtodowastowhethisperceptionthatthesoonerboatmenweregotthesoonerIshouldbeontherightsideofthelawagain。Aftersomeconflictwithhimselfhewentinsearchofmen。
Iwaslefttostudythecarp-pond，withitsgoldandsilverfish，thepivotofattentionoftheprettylittlegardencourtwhichstoodhandytothekitchen。Thisjuxtapositionwasnoaccident;forsuchpondsarelandscapeandlarderinone。Betweenmealsthefisharescenery;attheapproachofthedinnerhourtheyturnintogame。
Theinnguesthavingsufficientlyenjoyedthegambolsoffuturerepasts，picksouthisdishtosuithistasteorcapacity，andthefishisinstantlynettedandtranslatedtothegridiron。Thesurvivors，nonethewiser，continuetosteamboatabout，intentontheirowndinners，flashingtheircolorsastheyturntheirarmoredsidesinandoutofthelight。Eccentricnaturehasfittedtheseprototypesofnavigationwithallthemodernimprovements。Doubleandeventriplesetsofscrewsarecommonthingsintails，andsometimesthefins，too，areduplex。Asforme，Ihadneithertheheartnorthestomachtohelpdepopulatethepond。ButItookmuchmechanicaldelightintheirmotions;soIfedtheminsteadoftheyme。
Ihadmychoicebetweendoingthisandwatchingthelateboatmenattheirdinnerinthedistance。Nodoubtmoodshaveanaestheticconscienceoftheirown，——theydemandappropriatesetting;forIwasannoyedatthehilarityofthesemenovertheirmiddaymeal。Iborethemnomalice，butIownIshouldhavepreferrednottohaveseenthemthusmakingfreewithtimetheyhaddeclaredthemselvesunabletoselltome。
Thanksinparttomyqualityofoutlaw，andinparttofourhours’
propitiationofthegodsofdelay，thejaundicedpolicemanfinallysucceededinbeatingupacrew。Therewerefourconscriptsinall，kerchiefed，nottosaypetticoated，inthenativenauticalcostume;
acostumenotduetobeingfresh-watersailors，sincetheirsalt-watercousinsaregiventoalikedisguiseofsex。Thesemarinersmadeuswaitwhiletheyfinishedtheirpreparations。Itmeantalongvoyagetothem，——afacilisdescensusAverni;sedrevocaregradum，——averylongpull。Thenthebowwaspoledoff，thecurrenttookusinitsarmsandswungusoutintothestream，andthecrowdontheshingledroppedperspectivelyastern。
WhileIwasstillstandinggazingatlesseningTokimata，Iheardacryfrombehindme，and，turning，duckedjustintimetoescapebeingunceremoniouslysomersaultedintothewaterbyahawserstretchedfrombanktobankatalevelsingularlysuitedtosuchatrick。
TheropewasthestationaryhalfofaferrytowhichIhadneglectedtomaketimelyobeisance。Itmarked，indeed，anincipientstageintheartofsuspensionbridges，theferryboatitselfsupportingapartoftheweight，whiletheferrymanpulleditandhimselfacross。
Wemetseveralmoreinthecourseofthenextfewminutes，beforewhichweallboweddownintothebottomoftheboat，whilethehawserscraped，grumblingimpotently，overhead。
Ourboatwasofadaptivebuild。Itwasforty-fivefeetlong，notquitefourfeetwide，andsomewhatovertwofeetdeep。Theseproportionsandthecharacterofthewoodmadeitexceedinglithe，sothatitbentlikeawillowbeforenecessity。Inthesternstoodtheheadman，wieldingforrudderanoarhalfaslongagainasthosetheothersused。Therewasverylittlerowingdone，norwasthereneed;
thecurrentitselftookusalongatracingspeed。
Shortlyafterduckingunderthelastferryropewereachedthegatewaytothecanon。Somerapidsmadeanintroduction，rocksinplacesjuttingoutofthefoam，andwhilewewerestillcurvetingtothewavesthehillssuddenlyclosedinuponthestreamintwobeetlingcliffs，spannedsurprisinglybyaloftycantaleverbridge。
Anindividualwhochancedtocrossatthemomentstoppedinmidpathtowatchusthrough。Thestreamsweptusin，andthecountrysidecontractedtoavanishingvistabehind。Wewerelaunchedonourlongcanonvoyage。Thechangewasassuddenasathunderstormofasmilingsummerafternoon。Itwasaneclipseoftheearthbytheearthitself。Darkrockspicketedwithtreesroseinstilldarkershadowoneitherhand，higherthanonecouldsee。Theblackriverswirledbesideus，silent，sullen，swift。Atthebottomofthatgorgeuntroddenbyman，bornebythedarkfloodthatuntouchedbysunlightcoiledsnakelikealong，weseemedadventuredonsomeunforgottenStyx。
Forsometimewehadvoyagedthuswithafeelingnotunlikeawe，whenallatoncetherewasabustleamongtheboatmen，andoneofthemwentforwardandstoodupinthebow。Wesweptroundacorner，andsawourfirstgreatrapidsthreehundredyardsahead。Wecouldmarkadipinthestream，andthenatumbledmassofwhitewater，whilearoarasofragecameoutofthebodyofit。Aswesweptdownuponthespot，themaninthebowbeganbeatingthegunwalewithhisoarinregularlyrepeatedraps。Theboardgaveoutahollowringthatstrangelyfilledtheriverchasm;asoundwellcalculatedtoterrifytheevilspiritsofthespot。Forindeeditwasanexorcismofhomoeopathicdesign。Hisincantationfinished，hestoodmotionless。
Sodidtherestofus，waitingfortheplunge。Theboatdippedbythebow，dartedforward，andinatricewewereinthemidstofadeafeningturmoilofboilingwatersandcrashingbreakers。Thebreakerslaidviolenthandsuponus，grapplingatthefrailgunwaleandcominginpartaboard，andthen，asweslippedfromtheirgrasp，impotentlyflungtheirsprayinourfaces，andwithagrowldroppedastern。Theboattrembledlikealeaf，andwastremblingyet，when，withnightmarespeed，thethinghadslippedintothepast，andwewereshotoutintothemidstoftheseethingfloodbelow。
Nottheleastimpressivepartoftheaffairwasthestrangespirit-rappingonthebow。Theboatmenvaliantlyassertedthatthiswassimplyforsignaltothemaninthestern。Undoubtedlynowtheactionhaslargelycloakeditselfinhabit，butthatitoncewassuperstitiousisunquestionable。DevilsstillconstitutefartoorespectedaportionofthecommunityinpeasantpartsofJapan。
Thesteeringtheboatmendidwasclever，butthesteeringthestreammanagedofitsownmotionwasmoreso。Forbetweentherapidsproperwereswirlsandwhirlpoolsandraceswithoutend。Thecurrenttookusinhandattheturns，sweepingusdownatspeedstraightforarockontheoppositebank，andthen，justasshipwreckseemedinevitable，whiskedusroundupontheothertack。Athickcushionofwaterhadfendedtheboatoff，sothattostrikewouldhavebeenasimpossibleasitlookedcertain。Andthenatintervalscametheroarofanotherrapid，likeastirringrefrain，withtheboatmaninthebowtobeatthetime。
Soweswepton，nowthroughinkyswirlsoftide，nowthroughsnow-cappedbillows，moodstheseofthepassingstream，whileabovethegrandcharacterofthegorgeremainedeternallythesame。
Thetreesfarup，sharp-etchedagainsttheblue，Letbuttheriver’sstripofskylightthroughTotreesbelow，thatoneachjuttingledgeScantfootholdfoundtooverlooktheedge，——
Asstillasstatuesontheirnichesthere，Wherenobreezestirredtheever-shadowedair，——
Spellboundspectators，crowdedtierontierFromwherethelowest，bendingtobenearTheshockofspray，withleavesa-tremblestoodInshudderinggazeabovetheswirlingflood。
Thewholedeepchasm，somevastnaturalnaveThattothethoughtatouchofgrandeurgave，Andtouchofgrace，——forthatwistariaclungUponthetrees，itsgrapelikebuncheshungInstretchtocatchtheirsemblanceinthestream;
Palepurpleclusters，meanttoliveindream，Placedhighaboveman’spredatoryclutch，Tosightalonevouchsafed，fromharmingtouchWiselywithheldasheishurriedpast，Andthusthemoreamemorytolast，Avioletvision;theretostay——fairfate——
Forevervirginlyinviolate。
Slowlythestripofskyoverheadbecamesteepedincolor，thehalflightatthebottomofthegorgedeepenedintint，andsuddenlyaturnbroughtusoutatablazeinthecliff，whereahandfulofhousesstraggleduptowardtheouterworld。WehadreachedMitsushima，ashaftinginthetunnel，andourhaltingplaceforthenight。
XXI。
TotheSea。
Itwasatenminutes’walk，thenextmorning，fromtheinndowntotheboat：aneverwindingpathalongasuccessionofterracesstuddedwithtreesjustbreakingintoleaf，anddottedwithcottages，whosefolkgaveusgood-dayaswepassed。Thesiteofthevillageslopedtothesouth，itscheekfullturnedtothesunshinethatstoledownandkisseditasitlay。OnthislovelyMaymorning，amidtheslumberingair，itmadeasamorousabitofspringtideastheheartcouldwish。Infrontofus，invignette，stretchedthestream，halfamileofittowhereitturnedthecorner。Eachsucceedinglevelofterraceresetthepicture，asiffortrialofeffect。
Theboatwaswaiting，lightlygroundedonabitofshingleleftbyaturnofthecurrent。Severalenthusiasticfollowersaccompaniedusouttoitwithrespectfulinsistence。
Onreachingourcraft，wefound，tooursurprise，thatitwasfullofbalesofmerchandiseoflargeandplethorichabit。Weaskedinastonishmentwhatallthiscargomeant。Themenansweredsheepishlythatitwastomaketheboatridebetter。Theboathadriddenwellenoughthedaybefore，andongeneralprinciplesshould，itwouldseem，rideallthebetterforbeinglight。Butindeedtheirguiltwasplain。Ourrascallyboatmen，whohadalreadychargedagoodlysumfortheircraft，hadthoughttoservetwomasters，andafterhavingleasedthewholeboattomewereintendingnowtoturnadishonestpennybyshippingsomebodyelse’sgoodsintothebargain。
Incompanywiththerestofmykind，Imuchdisliketobeimposedupon;soItoldthemtheymightinstantlytaketheso-calledballastoutagain。WhenIhadseentheprocessofdisembarkationfairlybegunIrelented，deciding，solongasthebaleswerealreadyaboard，totakethemontothefirststoppingplace，andthereputthemashore。
Theriver，itsbriefglimpseatcivilizationover，relapsedagainintouttersavagery。Rocksandtrees，aswildapparentlyastheirfirstforerunnersthere，walledusinonthesides，andappearedtodosoattheends，makingexitseemanimpossibility，andentrancetohavebeenadream。Thestreamgaveshortreaches，disclosingeveryfewminutes，asittookusroundafreshturn，anewvariationontheoldtheme。Then，asweglidedstraightourfewhundredfeet，thewallbehindusrosehigherandhigher，stretchingoutatusasiftopreventourpossibleescape。Wehadthoughtitonlyahighcliff，andbeholditwasthewholemountainsidethathadstoodbarrierthere。
Icannotpointthewildnessofitallbetterthandidacertainsightwecameuponsuddenly，roundacorner。Withouttheleastwarning，abendinthecurrentintroducedustoafishing-poleandabasket，reposingtogetheronthetopofarock。Thesetwohintsathumanitysatallbythemselves，keepingoneanothercompany;noothersignofmanwasvisibleanywhere。Thepairofwaifsgaveoneanoddfeeling，asmighttheshadowofapersonapartfromthepersonhimself。
Therewassomethinguncannyintheircommonplacenessinsouncommonaplace。Whilewewerestillwonderingatthewhereaboutsoftheirowner，anotherturndisclosedhimbyasortofcovewherehisboatlaydrawnup。Indeed，itwasanidealspotforanangler，andalucrativeoneaswell，fortheriverisnaturallyfulloffish。
WereItheanglerIhaveseenothers，IwouldencampherefortherestofmylifeandfeedoffsuchphosphoricdietasImightcatch，tothequickeningofthebrainandthecomposingofthebody。
Butfortunatelymanhasmoreoftheriverthanoftherockinhiscomposition，andwhetherhewillornoissteadilybeinghurriedpastsuchnicksinlifetowardotheradventuresbeyond。
Therapidsherewere，ifanything，finerthanthoseaboveMitsushima。
Oftheminalltherearesaidtobemorethanthirty。Somehavenicknames，as\"theTurret，\"\"theAdze，\"\"BoilingRice，\"and\"theMountainBath。\"Indeed，probablyallofthemhavedistinctiveappellations，butonecannotaskthenamesofeverybodyinaprocession。Thereweresomebadenoughtogiveoneasensation。
Twooftheworstrockshavebeenblownup，butenoughstillremaintopointamomentarymoraloradornanaftertale。Allwereexhilarating。
ThrougheventheleastbadIshouldhavebeenmorethansorrytohavecomealone。Butconfidingtrustintheboatmenwasnotmisplaced;
forifquestionableintheirmorals，theywereabovereproachintheirwater-craft。
Therapidswereincidents;thegorgewehadalwayswithus，superbcleftthatitwas，hewnasbysomegiantaxe，notchingthemountainchainimperiouslyforpassage。Hourfollowedhourwiththesamesetting。Howtheriverfirsttookitintoitsheadtocomethroughsomanifestlyunsuitableaplaceisasecretforthegeologisttotell。ButIforonewishIhadbeenbytosee。
Frommorningtillnoonweracedwiththewateratthebottomofthecanon。Eachturnwaslike，andyetunlike，theonebefore，sothatI
wonderthatIhaveotherthanablurredcompositepictureonmymind’splate。Yetcertainbitshavepickedthemselvesoutandoustedtherest，andtherivercomesuptomeinthoughtasvividasinlife。
Theserepeateddisclosuresthatdisclosednothinglulledusatlastintoahappyunconsciousnessofendinthissubterraneanpassagetoalowerworld。Thoughwewerecleavingthemountainchaininpartagainstthegrain，indeedbecausewewere，itshowednosignofgivingout;untilwithoutpremonitionacurveshotusoutatthefootofavillageperchedsoperpendicularlyonterracesthatitalmostoverhungthestream。ItwascalledNishinoto，andconsistedofastreetthatsidledupbetweenthedwellingsinamorethanalpineway。Upitweclimbedaeriallytoateahouseforlunch;butnotbeforeIhaddirectedtheboatmentodischargethesmuggledgoods。
Inanotherhourwewereunderwayagainlesstheuninvitedbales，which，leftsittingallaloneonthesands，mutelyreproachedustilltheycouldbeseennomore。Atthefirstbendthegorgeclosedroundaboutusasruggedasever。Therapidswerenotsodangerousasthoseabove，butthestreamwasstillfastiflessfurious。Whenwelookedatthewaterwedidnotappeartobemovingatall，andwhenwelookedupagainatthebankwealmostlostourbalanceforthesuddenstart。
Thengraduallyachangecreptoverthefaceofthings。Thestreamgrewathoughtmoresteady，thecanonashadelesswild。Wepassedthroughsomemorerapids，——ourlast，theboatmensaid。Theriverbegantowiden，themountainsstandingmorerespectfullyapart。
Theyletusseenothingnew，buttheyshowedusmoreofthemselves，andgrandbuttressestheymade。Thenthereachesgrewlonger，andotherhillslesshighbecamevisibleahead。Byallsignswewerecometothebeginningoftheend。Anotherturn，andwewereconfrontedwitharealview，——averyhillyview，tobesure，butonethatbelongedtotheworldofman。
Itwaslikecomingoutofatunnelintothelight。
Thecurrenthurrieduson。Ateachbendthehillsinfrontroselesswildthanatthebendbefore。Villagesbegantodottheshores，andtheriverspreadoutandtookitsease。Anothercurve，andwenolongersawhillsandrocksahead。Agreatplainstretchedbeforeus，overwhichoureyeswanderedatwill。Lookingback，wemarkedthemountainsalreadyclosingupinline。Itriedtoplacetheriver’sgap，butthebarrierhadgrowncontinuoustotheeye。Likeadventurersinafairytale，theopeningthroughwhichwehadcomehadclosedunrecognizablybehindus。
Infrontallwasplain，every-dayplain，withpeopletillingit，andhamlets;andintheimmediateforeground，rightathwartourcourse，aferryboatfulloffolk。Asweboredownbetweenitandthelandingplacetwomengesticulatedatusfromthebank。Weswervedintowardthem。Theyshoutedsomethingtotheboatmen，andYejiroturnedtome。Thewayfarersaskedifwewouldletthemgowithustothesea。
Therewasnoregularconveyance，andtheymuchdesiredtoreachtheTokaidothatnight。WhatwouldIdo？
\"Oh！Verywell，\"saidI，reluctantly，\"takethemonboard。\"
Soithadcometothis，afterourromanticsolitaryvoyage！Weweretoendasacommoncarrier，afterall。Oneisbornademigod，theFrenchsay，todieagrocer。
Ourpassengerswerehonestandbusinesslike。Soonaftercomingaboardtheyofferedtopayfortheirpassage，anofferIpolitelydeclined。ThentheyfelltochattingwithYejiro，andIdoubtnotinfiveminuteshadpossessedthemselvesofallourimmediatehistory。
Meanwhile，theriverwaslazilydroppingusdowntothesea。Ontheleft，atarespectfuldistance，along，lowrise，likeabitoffortification，randownindefinitelyinthesamedirection，bywayofencouragingthestream。Pitiablesupposition！Wasthismeadow-meanderingbitofwaterindeedourwildTenriugawa！Itseemedimpossible。Oncewehadabatheticbitofexcitementoveranearcaseofgrounding，wherethewaterhadspreaditselfouttorippledowntoalowerlevel。Thiswasalltorecallthepast。Thestreamhadgrownsteadyandprofitable。Morethanoncewepassedcraftjarringlymercantile，andevensomehighlyrespectableautomations，water-wheelboatsanchoredinthecurrent，nosetotail，inalongline，apparentlypaddlingupstream，butneveradvancinganinch。
Andallthesesightshadawork-a-day，machinelooklikemiddleage。
Theafternoonagedtomatch。Thesunbegantodipbehindthedistanthills;andthentowardtheeast，infrontofus，cameoutthelongoutlineoftheTokaidobridge，threequartersofamileinlength，likeahugecaterpillarcrawlingmethodicallyacrosstheriver-bed。
Graduallywedrewtowardit，tillitsmyriadlegsglintedinthesunsetglow;andthen，aswesweptunder，itwheeledroundtobecomeinstantlyagauntstalkingsilhouetteagainstthesky。Frombelowbytheriver’smouththeroarofthesurfcameforebodinglyupoutoftheasheneast。Butinthewestwasstillaglory，andasIturnedtoitIseemedtolookdownthelongvistaofthejourneytowesternNotobythesea。IthoughthowIhadpicturedittomyselfbeforestarting，andthenhowlittlethefactshadfittedthefancy。Ithadlostandgained;ifnolongermaiden，itwasmine，andtheglamourthatfringesthefuturehadbutchangedtotheglamourthatgildsthepast。Distancehadbroughtitallbackagain。Delays，discomforts，difficulties，disappeared，anditsmemoryroseaslovelyastheskypastwhichIlooked。Forthebetterpartofplaceorpersonisthethoughtitleavesbehind。