Wepulledupalongside，gaveitsoccupantsgood-day，andaskedleavetomount。Thefishermen，hospitablesouls，offerednoobjection。
Thisseemedtomethemorecourteousontheirpart，afterIhadmadetheascent，forthereweretwooftheminthebasket，andavisitormateriallyaddedtothealreadyuneasyweight。Butthentheywereusedtoit。Therungsofwhatdidforladderweresofarapartastonecessitatemakingverylonglegsofitinplaces，whichmusthavebeencolossalstridesfortheowners。ThehigherIclambered，theflimsierthestructuregot。However，Iarrived，notwithoutunnecessarytrepidation，wormedmywayintothebasketandcroucheddowninsomeuneasinessofmind。Thewaythethingswayedandwriggledgavemetobelievethatthenextmomentweshouldallbeshotcatapultwiseintothesea。Tocallittopheavywilldoforaword，butnothingbutexperiencewilldoforthesensation。Thisoscillation，strangelyenough，wasnotapparentfromthesea;whichremindsmetohavenoticeddifferencesduethepointofviewbefore。
Iwasgreetedbyanextensiveoutlook。Theshore，perhapsahundredyardsaway，ranshortlyintoafisherhamlet，andthenintoalonglineofhalfsubmergedrocks，likesuccessivetouchesofaskippingstone。Beyondtheendofthisindefinitepoint，andalittletotherightofit，stoodanotherlookout。Thiswasouronlynearneighbor，thoughotherscouldbeseeninminiatureinthedistance，faintcobwebsagainstthecoast。Thebaystretchedawayonallsides，landlockedatlast，exceptwheretotheeastanopeninggaveintotheseaofJapan。
Toadispassionateobserverthebasketmayhavebeentwentyfeetabovethewater。Tooneinthebasket，itwasconsiderablyhigher——anditsheightwasemphasizedbyitsseeminginsecurity。
Thefishermenwereverymuchathomeinit，buttomethesensationwassuchastocausestrainedrelationsbetweenmywilltostayandmywishtobegone。
Butstrongfeelingsaresoeasilychangedintotheiropposites！Icanimagineoneoftheseeyriesadelightfulsettingtocertainmoods。
Adesertedoneshouldbetheplaceofplacesforreadingaromance。
Thesolitude，thestrangeness，andthecradle-likeswing，wouldallcomposetoshuttingouttheworld。TopaddletheresomeMaymorning，tieone’sboatoutofsightbeneath，andclimbupintothenesttositalonehalfpoisedintheskyinthemidstofthesea，shouldsavorofanewsensation。Afteralittleacclimatizationitwouldprobablybecomeapassion。Certainly，withapipe，itshouldinduceamosthappyframeofmindforaFrenchnovel。Theseemingriskoftheonesituationwouldservetopointthoseoftheother。
Thefishermenreceivedmythankswithamiability，watcheduswithstolidcuriosityaswepulledoff，andthenrelapsedintotheirformersemi-comatosecondition。Theireyrieslippedperspectivelyastern，sanklowerandlower，andsuddenlywaslostagainstthebackgroundofthecoast。
Thefavoringbreezewewerealwayshopingfornevercame。Thiswasabitterdisappointmenttotheboatmen，whothusfoundthemselvespreventedfrommorethanoccasionalwhiffsofsmoking。Oncewehadoutthesparandactuallyhoistedthesail，agodsendofanexcusetothemfordoingnothingforthenextfewminutes;butitshortlyhadtocomedownagainandonwerowed。
Oursurroundingsmadeaprettysight。Aforegroundofwater，smoothasonecouldwishhadhenowheretogo，withillusivecat’s-pawsofwindplayingcoylyallaround，markingthegreatshieldwithdarkscratches，andnevercomingnearenoughtobecaughtexceptwhenthesailwasdown。Folduponfoldoflowhillsinthedistance，withhamletsshowinghereandthereattheirbasesbythesea。Andthen，almostlikeapartofthepicture，sosubtlydidthesensationsblend，theslowcadencedcreakofthesweepsonthegunwale，arhythmicundercurrentofsound。
Atintervals，awayfarerundersail，boundtheotherway，creptslowlyby，carrying，asitseemedtoourenviouseyes，hisowncapfulofwindwithhim;andonceaboat，boundourwayandnotundersail，passedusnotfaroff。Ourboatmenwerebeautifullyblindtothisdefeattilltheirattentionhadbeenspecificallycalledtoitforanexplanation。Theythendeclaredthevictortobelighterthanwe，andthisinfaceofourhavingchosentheircraftforjustthatquality。Whatpercentofsuchstatements，Iwonder，dothemakersexpecttohavecredited？Andifanyappreciableamount，whichisthemoresold，theartlessdeceiverorhislesssimplevictim？
ButwealwaysheadedinthedirectionofNanao，andtheshoresfloatedbythroughthelongspringafternoon。Atlasttheybegantocontractuponustill，byvirtueofnarrowing，theyshotusthroughthestraitsinwaterclearascrystal，andthenwideningagain，droppedusadriftinWakurabay。Thoughnotsobelovedofbora，thebaywasmostpopularwithotherfish。Schoolsofporpoisesturnedcart-wheelsforouramusement，andinspotsthewaterwasfairlyalivewithbabyjelly-fish。OntheleftlayMonkeyisland，socalledfromacertainoldgentlemanwhohadhadapeculiarfondnessforthoseanimals。Hisfamilyofpoorrelationshaddisappearedathisdeath，andtheislandwasnowchieflyremarkableforacuriousclayformation，whichtimehadchiseledintocliffssomimickingafoldingscreenthattheywereknownbythename。Theywereperfectlylevelontopandperpendicularonthesides，andasdouble-facedasthemostmatter-of-factnicknamercoulddesire。Sunsetcame，foundusstillinthebayandleftusthere。Thentheduskcreptupfromtheblackwaterbeneath，likeanexhalation。Itgrewchilly。
JustaswewereturningthefaceofScreencliffasoundofsingingreachedus，ricochettingoverthewater。Ithadaplaintiveringsuchaspeasantsongsarewonttohave，andcame，asweatlengthmadeout，fromaboathomewardboundfromtheisland，steeringacourseatrightanglestoourown。Thevoiceswerethoseofwomen，andasourcoursessweptusnearereachother，wesawthatwomenalonecomposedthecrew。Theyhadbeenfaggot-cutting，andthebuncheslaypiledamidships，whileforeandafttheypliedtheiroars，andsang。Thegloaminghidallbutsoundandsex，andthrewitsveilofromanceoverthetrollers，whosenttheirheartsoutthusacrossthetwilightsea。Thesong，nodoubtsomecommonditty，gatheredapathosoverthewaterthroughthenight。Itsweptfromonesideofustotheother，softenedwithdistance，lingeredindetachedstrains，andthenwashushed，leavingusoncemorealonewiththenight。
Stillwepaddledon。Itwasnowbecomequitedark，quitecold，quitecalm，andwewerestillseveralgoodmilesofffromNanao。Atlengthonturningaheadlandthelightsofthetownanditsshippingcameoutonebyonefrombehindapoint，theadvanceguardsfirst，thenthemainbody，andwheelingintolinetookuptheirpostinalongparadeahead。Webegantowonderwhichwerethenearer。Thereisatouchofmysteryinmakingaharboratnight。Inthedaytimeyouseeitallwell-orderedbyperspective。Butasyoucreepslowlyinthroughthedark，thetwinklesoftheshippingonlydoubtfullypointtheirwhereabouts。Themostbrilliantmayturnoutthemostremote，andthefaintestatfirstthenearestafterall。Yourownmotionalonecansiftthemintoplace。Ifwecouldvoyagethroughtheseaofspace，itwouldbethuswemightcomeuponsomestar-clusterandhavethesamedelightfuldoubtwhichshouldbecomeoursunthefirst。
Inhalfanhourtheywereallaboutus;thenearerrevealingbytheirlightthedarkbodiesconnectedwiththem;thefartherstillshowingonlythemselves。Theteahousesalongthewater-frontmadeamilky-wayahead。Wethreadedourcoursebetweentheoutlyinglightswhilethemilky-wayresolveditselfintostar-pointedsilhouettes。
Thenskirtingalongit，wedrewupatlastatadarksomequay，andlandedYejirotohuntupaninn。Ilookedatmywatch;itwasteno’clock。Wehadnotonlypassedmyestimateoftimesomewhereinthemiddleofthebay;wehadexceededeventheboatmen’sexcessiveallowance。Somehowwehadputsixhourstothevoyage。IbegantorealizeIhadhiredthewrongmen。Norwasthevoyageyetover，ifremainingattachedtotheboatforfullyanhourmorebeentitledtocount。ForYejirodidnotreturn，andtheboatmenandIwaited。
Iwasgladenoughtomakepretenceatarrivalbygettingoutoftheboatontothequay。Thequaywasadismalplace。Iwalkedouttothefartherend，whereIfoundanindividualhauntingitwithanideatosuicideapparently。HiscoursestruckmeassoappropriatethatI
feltitwouldbehollowmockerytoarguethepointwithhim。Hemusthavebecomealarmedatthepossibility，however，forhemadeoff。
Heavenknowshehadsmallcausetofear;Iwascertainlyatthatmomentnounsympatheticsoul。
Havingonlycometogriefonthequay，Inexttriedalandwardstrollwithmuchthesameeffect。Thestreetorplacethatgaveuponthewharfwasasdesertedasthewharfitself。Halfthehousesaboutitweredarkastombs;theotherhalfshowedonlyglimmeringshojitauntingmebythesoundstheysufferedtoescape，orbyachancesilhouettethrownforamomentuponthepaperwallbysomeonewithin。Andnowandthen，asifstillfurthertoenhancethesolitude，apairpassedmebyinlowself-suitedtalk。
Stillnosignoftheboy。EveryfewminutesIwouldwalkbacktotheboatandlingerbesideittillIcouldnolongerstandthemutereproachofthebasketshuddledinalittlepileonthestones，poor，houselessimmigrantsthattheywere。AndfromtimetotimeImadeatouchingspectacleofmyself，bypullingoutmywatchandpeering，bywhatfeeblelightIcouldfind，anxiouslyatitsfacetomakeoutthehour。
AtlastYejiroturnedupinthecompanyofapoliceman。Thisofficial，however，provedtobeaccompanyinghiminacivilcapacity，and，changingintoaguide，ledthewaythroughseveraldarkalley-waystoaninnofforbiddingface，butbetterheart。Theredidweeventuallydine，orbreakfast，forbythattimeitwasbecomethenextday。
XIII。
OntheNotoHighway。
Onthemorrowmorningwetooktheroadinkuruma，theroadproper，asYejirocalledit;foritwasthemainbondbetweenNotoandtherestofJapan。Thiswasthenearestapproachithadtoapropername，acircumstancewhichshoweditnottobeofthefirstimportance。
ForinJapan，alltheoldarteriesoftravelhaddistinctivenames，theNakasendoorMid-Mountainroad，theTokaidoorEasternSearoad，andsoforth。Likecertainothercountryrelations，theirimportancewasduetotheircityconnections，nottotheirownlocalmagnitude。
For，whenwelloutofsightofthetown，theydonothesitatetoshrinktoanythingbutimposingproportions。Inmidcareeryoumightoftendoubtyourselftobeonsocelebratedathoroughfare。Buttheyarealwaysdelightfultotheeye，astheywanderthroughthecountry，nowbosomedintreesamongthemountains，nowstalkingbetweentheirownlongfilesofpine，orcryptomeria，acrossthewell-tilledplains。
Thisonehadbutfewsentinelstolineitintheopen，butlostlittleinpicturesquenessforitslackofpomp。Itwasprettyenoughtobeverygoodcompanyitself。
Itwasfairlypatronizedbywayfarerstodelightthesoul;cheerfulbodies，who，thoughjourneyingforbusiness，hadplentyoftimetobehappy，andradiatedcontent。Takeitasyouplease，theJapanesepeopleareamongtheveryhappiestonthefaceoftheglobe，whichmakesthemamongthemostcharmingtomeet。
Nothingnotablebeyondsuchpleasinggeneralitiesofpathandpeoplelayinourway，tillwecametoaplacewhereasteepandperfectlysmoothclaybankshotfromaspurofthehillsdirectlyintothethoroughfare。Threeurchinswereindustriouslyputtingthistoitsproperuse，coastingdownit，thatis，ontheseatsofwhatdidthemforbreeches。Anover-grown-upregardformyowntrousersalonedeterredmefrominstantlyfollowingsuit。Nosuchscruplespreventedmyabettingthem，however，totheextentofatriflingbribeforarepetition。Fortheyhadstoppedabashedassoonastheyfoundtheyhadapublic。Regardlessofmaternalconsequences，Ithusencouragedthesport。Butafterall，wasitsomuchabribeasanentrancefeetothecircus，orbetteryet，asortofsubsidyfromanex-memberofthefraternity？Surely，ifadversephysicalcircumstancesprecludeprofessioninperson，thenextbestthingistobecomeanoblepatronofart。
Fromthisaccidentalinstance，IjudgedthatboysinNotohadaboutasgoodatimeofitasboyselsewhere;thenextsightwechanceduponmademethinkthatpossiblywomendidnot。Wehadhardlypartedfromthecoastersondrygroundwhenwemetinthewaywithalotofwomenharnessedtocartsfilledwithvariousmerchandise，whichtheyweretoilsomelydraggingalongtowardsNanao。Itwasnotsopicturesqueasightasitssexmightsuggest。Forthoughthewomenwerenaturallynotaged，andsomehadnotyetlostallcomelinessoffeature，thiswomanlinessmadethethingthemoreappealing。NotowasevidentlynoEden，sincethelocalAdamhadthuscontrivedtoshiftuponthelocalEvesolargeafractionoftheprimalcurse。
ItwasasbadasthenorthofGermany。Thefemaleporterswehadbeenofferedonthethresholdoftheprovinceweremerelysymptomaticofthestateofthingswithin。IwonderwhatmyyoungJapanesefriend，thenewlight，towhomIlistenedonceonboardship，whilehelaunchedintoadiatribeuponthejinrikishaquestion，thedegradingpractice，ashetermedit，ofusingmenforhorses，——Iwonder，Isay，whathewouldhavesaidtothis！Hewasaquixoticyouth，atthetimereturningfromabroad，wherehehadpickedupmanynewideas。
Hisproposedapplicationsofthemdidhimgreatcredit，morethantheyarelikelytowinamongtheclassforwhomtheyweredesigned。
Acentandtwothirdsamile，tobehadfortherunningforit，isasyettooglitteringaprizetobeeasilyforegone。
Ofthetravelinquestion，weweretreatedtoforty-threemiles’
worththatday，byrelaysofrunners。Theoldmenfelloffgradually，tobereplacedbynewones，givingouradvancethecharacterofawave，wheretheparticlesmerelyoscillated，butthemotionwentsteadilyon。Theoscillations，however，werenotinsignificantinamount。Someofthemenmusthaveruntheirtwenty-fivemilesormore，brokenonlybyshorthalts;andthisatadog-trot，changedofcoursetoaslowerpullonbadbits，andwhengoinguphill。Afineshowofendurance，withallallowances。
Inthisfashionwebowledalongthroughasmilingagriculturallandscape，relievedbythehillsupontheleft，andwiththefaintestsuspicion，notamountingtoascent，oftheseaoutofsightontheright。Thedaygrewmorebeautifulwitheveryhourofitsage。
Thebluedepthsabove，tenantedbycastlesofcloud，grantedfancyeminentdomaintowanderwhereshewould。Eventheroadbelowgavefreeplaytoitscaprice，andmeanderedlikeanystreaminquisitivelythroughthevalley，visitingallthevillageswithinreach，afterawhimsicalfashionofitsown。Allaboutit，meadowsweretilling，andthewholelandscapebreathedanairofwell-establishedage，amidthelustinessofyouth。Theveryfarmhouseslookedtohavegrownwheretheystood，asindeedtheupperpartofthemhad。Forfromthethatchoftheirroofs，deepbeddedinmud，sprangallmannerofplantsthatmadeoftheeavesgardensintheair。Theridgepolesstoodtransformedintobedsofflowers;theirlongtuftsofgrasswavedinthewind，theblossomsnoddingtheirheadsamicablytothepassers-by。Whatacontentedfolkthisshouldbewhoseveryhomescansovegetate！Surelyaprettyconceititisforapeasantrythustosleepeverynightunderthesod，andyetawakeeachmorningtolifeagain！
AtthethresholdofKagaweturnedabruptlytotheleft，andattackedthepassleadingoverintoEtchiu。Aswewoundourwayupthenarrowvalley，dayleftthehollowstostandonrosytiptoeonthesidesofthehills，thebettertotakeflightintotheclouds。Thereitlingeredalittle，foldingtheforestsaboutwithitsroseatewarmth。
Eventhesternoldpinesflushedtothetipsoftheirshaggybranches，whilehereandthereabitofopenturnedaglowingcheekfulltothegood-nightkissofthesun。Andoverbeyonditallrosethetwilightbow，inpurplishinsubstantialitycreepingsteadilyhigherandhigher，abovethepine-cladheights。
Ireachedthetopbeforethejinrikisha，andasasortofrewardofmeritscrambledalittlefartherupthesteepslopetotheleft。
FromhereIcommandedthepass，especiallythatsideofitIhadnotcomeup。Thecorkscrewoftheroadcarriedtheeyemostpleasinglydownwithit。Icouldseeateahouseafewhundredfeetbelow，andbeyondit，atamuchlowerlevel，abridge。Beyondthiscameacomparativelyflatstretch，andthentheroaddisappearedintoagorge。Hereandthereitwaspointedwithpeopletoilingslowlyup。
Oftheencirclinghillstheshouldersalonewerevisible。WhileI
wasstillsurveyingthescene，thejinrikishamen，oneaftertheother，emergedfromthegulfoutofsightontherightandproceededtodescendintotheoneontheleft。Whenthelasthadwellpassed，andIhadtickledmyselfwiththesenseofabandonment，Iscrambledback，tookajumpintotheroadandslippeddownafterthem。Thelasthadwaitedformeattheteahouse，andstowingmeinstartedtorattledownthedescent。Theroad，unlikeus，seemedafraidofitsownspeed，andbroughtitselfupeveryfewhundredfeetwitharoundturn。Abouteachoftheseweswung，onlytodashdownthenextbend，andbegintheoscillationoveragain。Themenwereinfineexcitement，andkeptupashoutingoutofmeredelight。Intruthweallenjoyedthedissipatedsquanderinginafewminutesoftheenergyofpositionwehadsolaboriouslygainedbytoilinguptheotherside。Overthebridgewerattled，bowledalongthelevelstretch，andthenintothegorgeandoncemoredown，tillinanothertenminutesthelastfallhadshotusoutintotheplainwithmentalmomentumenoughtocarryushilariouslyintoImaisurugi，whereweputupforthenight。
Atbreakfastthenextmorningthesonofthehouse，anengaginglad，presentedmewithanunexpecteddish，threefossilstarfishonaplatter。Theywerefound，hesaid，innumbers，onthesidesofthehillhardby;afactwhichwouldgotoprovethatthispartofJapanhasbeenmakinginlatergeologictime。Indeed，ItakeitthebetterpartofEtchiuhasthusbeencastupbythesea，andnowliesbetweenitssemicircleofpeaksanditscrescentofbeach，likeayoungmooninthewesternsky，anewbayofricefieldintheoldbay’sarms。
Wehadcomebywayofitsoceanterminatoralongitsfringeofsand;
wewerenowtocrossitsface。
Aswepulledoutfromthetownandenteredthegreatplainofpaddyfieldsitwaslikeadventuringourselvesinsomevastexpanseofocean，cutuponlybyisletsoftrees。SoleveltheplainandsostilltheaironthiswarmMaymorning，theclumpsshimmeredinmirageinthedistancelikethingsatsea。Farmhousesandpeasantsatworkinthefieldsloomedupasships，pastwhichweslowlytackedandthendroppedthemoutofsightbehind。Andstillnoendofthesameinfinitelevel。Newclumpsrosedoubtfullyafar，tookonformandvanishedintheirturn。Ourmenrolledalongatagoodsix-knotgait，andmilewenttojoinmilewithlittleperceptibleeffectonthesurroundings。Onlythemistywashesofthemountains，glisteninginspotswithsnow，cameouttothesouthandthenswungslowlyroundlikethesunhimself。Occasionally，werolledintoavillageofwhichIdulyinquiredthedistancefromthelastknownpoint。Oneofthese，Takaoka，wasaverylargeplaceandstretchedamileormorealongtheroad，withramificationstotheside。
Atlastwenearedsomefoothillswhichwecrossedbyababypass，andfromthefarthersidelookedoffagainstthedistantTateyamarange。
Descendingagain，anotherstretchofplainbroughtustoToyama，theoldfeudalcapitaloftheprovince。Itisstillabustlingtown，anddoesabriskbusiness，Iwastold，inpatentmedicine，whichishawkedoverJapangenerallyandcureseverything。Buttheformersplendoroftheplacehasleftitforever。Theroomsintheinn，whereneighboringdaimyoswerewonttorestontheirjourneysthrough，arestillsuperbwithcarving，lacquerandpaintings，butnodaimyowilleveragainholdhistravelingcourtbeforetheirtokonoma。
Themanperchancemayagaintarrythere，butthemannerofitallhasgonetojointhepast。Nowhewhowillsmayensconcehimselfinthedaimyo’scorner，andfancyhimselfafeudallord;norwillthebreedingofthoseabouthimdisillusionhismiddaydream。
Thecastletheyhaveturnedintoapublicschool;andasIstrolledintoitscloseImetbandsofboysinforeignlycee-likeuniformtroopingout;chubby-facedyoungstersinstiffvisoredcaps。Girlsthereweretoo，inknotsoftwosandthrees，prettylittlethingsinsemi-Europeandress，theirhairdonealagrecque，stuckwithasingleflower，whostoppedintheirchattertostareatme。Tothinkthatthefeudaltimesaretothemasmuchataleasthemakingoftheplainitselfwhereitsruinsstandalreadymantledwithgreen！
XIV。
TheHarinokiToge。
Therenowbefellusasadpieceofexperience，theresultofmisplacedconfidenceintheguidebook。Ourswasthefaithasimplepublicpinsuponprint。Lejournal，c’estunjeunehomme，asBalzacsaid，andeventhebestofguidebooks，asthisonereallywas，mayturnout——acovertomanyshortcomings。
ItsdescriptionofthecrossingoftheHarinokitogeimpliedageneralityofperformancesthatcarriedconviction。Ifhewhoreadmightnotrun，hehad，atleast，everyassurancegivenhimthathewouldbeabletowalk。Thatthewritermightnotonlyhavebeenthefirsttocross，butthelast，aswell，wasnotevidentfromthetext。
Norwasitthereapparentthatthepathwhichwasspokenofasdifficultanddescribedas\"hangingtotheprecipitoussideofthecliff，\"mighthavebecometiredofhangingthusforthesakeoftravelerswhonevercame，andhavegivenitselfoveratlasttotheabyss。
Inthebook，thedeadpaststilllivedanever-youthfulpresent。
Intruth，however，thepathatthetimeoftheaccount，sometwelveyearsbefore，hadjustbeenmadebythesamuraiofKagatojointhemtothecapital。Sincethentheroadbytheseahadbeenbuilt，andtheHarinokipasshadceasedtobeinpracticewhatitpurportedtobeinprint。Ithadinadoublesenserevertedtotype。Therewassmallwonderatthis，foritwasaveryCerberusofapassatbest，withthreeheadstoit。ThefarthestfromEtchiuwastheHarinokitogeproper。
Theguidebookandafriendhadgoneoveroneseason，andtheguidebookhadinducedanotherfriendtoaccompanyhimagaintheyearafter。
WhethertherewereanyunpersonallyconductedascentsIamnotsure。
Butatanyrate，allthishappenedintheearlydays;foryearstheHarinokitogehadhadrest。
WeoughttohavetakenwarningfromthegeneralskepticismwemetwithatToyama，whenweproposedthepass。Butwiththefatalfaithofamaninhisguidebook，weignoredthenativeforebodings。
Besides，therewerejustpeopleenoughwhoknewnothingaboutit，andthereforethoughtitcouldbedone，toencourageusinourdelusion。
AccordinglyweleftToyamaafterlunchinthebestofspirits，injinrikisha，forKamidaki，orUpperFall，towhichthereprofessedtobeajinrikisharoad。Thedistancewasthreeri，sevenmilesandahalf。Beforewehadgoneoneofthemtheroadgaveout，andleftustotackonfootinpathsthroughtherice-fields，whichinonelonginclinationkeptmountingbeforeus。Justbeforereachingthevillage，ahugetreeinfullfaintpurplebloomshowedupalittletotheleft。
Underasuddenattackofbotanicalzeal，Istruckacrosslotstoinvestigate，andaftermuchtackingamongthepaddydykesfound，tomysurprise，onreachingit，thattheflowerscamefromahugewistariathathadcoileditselfupthetree。Thevinemusthavebeenatleastsixfeetroundatthebase，andhadabodyhorriblylikeanenormousboathatswungfrombrancheshighinair。Theanimallookofthevegetableparasitewassolifelikethatonebothlongedandloathedtotouchitatthesametime。
AtKamidaki，aftertheusualdelay，wefoundporters，whoechoedthedoubtsofthepeopleofToyama，andwentwithusprotesting。HalfanhourafterthiswecametotheJindogawa，ariverofvariableimportance。Itlookedtohavebeenoncethebedofamightyglacierthatshouldhavesweptgrandlyroundfromunseenfastnessesamongthehills。Atthetimeofourvisit，itwas，forthemostpart，awasteofstonesthroughwhichtwolargerandseverallesserstreamswereinmuchworrytofindtheirwaytothesea。Thetwolargerwerejustbigenoughtobeunfordable;soaCharonstationedateachferriedthecountryfolkacross。Atthesmaller，afterpickingoutthelikeliestspots，wetookoffourshoesandsocksandwaded，andthen，upontheotherside，satsometimeonstones，ill-modeledtothatend，todrawourthingsonagain。
Ourwaynowleduptheleftbank——therightbank，accordingtoaquaticconvention，whichpleasinglysupposesyoutobedescendingthestream。ItlayalongaplateauwhichIdoubtnottohavebeentheriver’sprehistoricbed，soevidentlyhadthepresentonebeenchiseledoutofittoafurtherdepthofoverfiftyfeet。Atfirstthepathstruckinland，astutelymakingachordtotheriver’sbow，anunsuspectedsignofintelligenceinapath。Itwasadventurous，too，forsoonaftercomingoutabovethebrink，itbeganuponacrobaticfeatsinwhichitshoweditselfnationallyproficient。
Anarrowaqueducthadbeencutoutofthesideofthecliff，andalongitsouterembankment，whichwastwofeetwide，thepathproceededtobalance。Theaqueducthadgivenwayinspots，whichcausedthepathtotaketosomericketyboardsputthereforitsbenefit。Afterthisexhibitionofdaring，itdescendedtothestream，toriseagainlater。
Meanwhilenightcameonandtheriverbottombegantofillwithwhatlookedtobemist，butwasinrealitysmoke。Thisgaveaweirdeffecttothenowmountainoussettings。Intothemidstofitwedescendedtoasuspensionbridgeoftwistedstrandsofthewistariavine，ballastedattheendswithboulderspiledfromtheriver’sbed。
Thethingswayedcheerfullyaswepassedover。
Onthetopoftheoppositebankstoodperchedagroupofhouses，notenoughtomakeavillage，andfartoohumbletosupportaninn。
Butintheirmidstroseawell-to-dotemple，where，accordingtotheguidebook，goodlodgingwastobehad。Itmayindeedbeso。Forourpartwewerenotsomuchasgrantedentry。Anacolyte，whoparleyedwithusthroughthedarkness，reportedthepriestawayonbusiness，andrefusedtoletusinonanyterms。Severalbystandersgatheredduringtheinterview，andhaditnotbeenforoneofthemwemighthavebeenthereyet。Fromthismanweelicitedtheinformationthatanotherhamletlayhalfamilefurtherup，whosehead-man，hethought，mightbewillingtohouseus。Wefollowedstraightonuntilsomebuildingsshowedinstillblackersilhouetteagainsttheblacksky，andthere，aftersomegropinginthedarkandaseconduncannyconversationthroughaloophole，——fortheplacewasalreadyboardedupforthenight，——wewerefinallytakenin。
Thehousewasagenerousinstanceofamountainfarmhouse。
Thefloorswereinnocentofmats，andtheroomsotherwisepitiablybarnlike。Yetanairoflargenessdistinguishedthewhole。Itwasclearlythehomeofamanofstandinginhiscommunity，onewholivedamplytheonlylifeheknew。Youfeltyoualreadyknewthemanfromhisouterenvelope。AndthisinsomesortpreparedmeforalittlesceneIwasshortlytowitness。ForwhilewaitingforYejirotogetdinnerreadyIbecameawarethatsomethingwasgoingoninwhatstoodforhall;andonpushingtheshojigentlyapartIbeheldthewholehouseholdateveningprayersbeforeanaltarpiece，lightedbycandlesandglitteringwithgildedBuddhasandbronzelotusflowers。
Thefatherintonedtheservicefromakindofbreviary，andthefamilyjoinedfromtimetotimeintheresponses。Therewasasincerityandasweetsimplicityabouttheactthatwenttomyheartandheldmethere。Atthecloseofitthefamilyremainedbowedwhiletheintonerreverentlyputoutthelightsandfoldedthedoorsupontheimageswithin。Lockedinthatlittlecaselayalltheluxurywhichthefamilycouldafford，andtowhichtherestofthehousewasstranger。Thereissomethingtouchinginanyheartfeltbelief，andsomethingpathetictoo。
Thispeacefulparenthesiswashardlypastbeforethetrialsoftravelintrudedthemselvesagain。Theportersprovedrefractory。Theyhadagreedtocomeonlyasfarastheycould，andnowtheyrefusedtoproceedfurther。Herewasaprettypass。Toturnbacknowwasworsethannottohavesetoutatall。Besides，wehadnotyetevencomeinsightoftheenemy。Yejiroreasonedwiththemforsomehoursinthekitchen，occasionallypausingforlackoffurtherargumenttoreporthiswantofprogress。Itseemedthemenvaluedtheirlivesaboveamoneyconsideration，strangelyenough。Theymadenobonesaboutit;thethingwastoodangerous。Thestreamstheydeclaredimpassable，andthecharcoalburnerstheonlymenwhoknewthepath。
Yejiroatoncehadthesewitnessessubpoenaed，andbygoodluckoneofthemcame，who，onbeingquestioned，repeatedalltheportershadsaid。ButYejiro’sbloodwasup，andheboldlyplayedhislasttrump。Hethreatenedthemwiththearmofthelaw，amuchmoreeffectiveweaponinJapanthanelsewhere。Heproposed，infine，towalkthreeridownthevalleytothenearestpolicestationandfetchapolicemanwhoshouldcompelthemtomoveon。ItisperhapsopentodoubtwhetherevenaJapanesepoliceman’somnipotencewouldhaveextendedsofar。Butthethreat，thoughnotconclusive，hadsomeeffect。ThisstrategicstrokeIonlylearntoflater，andIlaughedheartilywhenIdid。Thatnight，however，itwasnolaughingmatter，andIbegantohavedoubtsmyself。Butitwasnotimeformisgivings，soIwentintohelp。Thecircleroundthekitchenfirewasnotacheerfulsight。Tohavethecourageofone’sconvictionsisrareenoughinthisweakworld，buttohavethecourageofone’sdoubtsissomethingIuncoverto。Tofurnishpluckforawholecompanyincludingone’sself;toheartenotherswithoutlettingthemseehowsoreinneedofhearteningistheheartener，touchesmyutmostadmiration。Ifonlyanotherwouldsaytohimthathemightbelievetheverythingshedoesnotbelieve，ashesaysthemtothatother;theythenmightatleastseemtrue。Ignorancesavedme。HadIknownwhattheydid，Ishouldhaveagreedwiththemonthespot。
Asitwas，IdidwhatIcould，andwentbacktomyownroom，thepreyofsomewhatlonelythoughts。
XV。
TowardthePass。
Iwaswakedbygoodnews。Theportershad，toacertainextent，comeround。Ifwewouldhalvetheirburdensbydoublingtheirnumber，theywouldmakeanattemptonthepass，or，rather，theywouldgoonasfarastheycould。Thiswasagreatadvance。Tobealreadymovingimpliesamomentumofthemindwhichcarriesamanfartherthanhemeans。Iacquiescedatonce。Therecruitsconsistedofthemasterofthehouse——hisfather，theofficiatoratfamilyprayers，hadretiredfromthecaresofthisworld——andapeasantoftheneighborhood。Thecharcoalburnersweretoobusywiththeirownaffairs。Fromthesill，asIputonmyboots，Iwatchedwithcomplacencethecordingoftheloads，andthen，withquitealightsomegait，followedthelengthenedfileoutintothestreet。
Oneaftertheotherwetrampedforthpastthefewhousesoftheplace，whosepeoplewatchedusgo，withthebuoyanttreadofthoseabouttodogreatthings，andsooutintotheopen。
Thepathappearedverywell。Ittrottedsoberlyalongacrossamountainmooruntilitcameoutabovetheriver。Itthenwoundupstream，clingingtotheslopeseveralhundredfeetabovethevalleybottom。Itwasprecipitousinplaces，butwithinreason，andIwasjustcomingtoconsidertheaccountsexaggeratedwhenitdescendedtotheriverbedatapointwhereabuttofnevestuckafootintotheshingle。Thestream，whichhadlookedathreadfromabove，turnedoutatorrentwhenwestooduponitsbrink。Thevalleywasnothingbutriverbed，amassofbouldersofallsizes，throughthemidstofwhichthestreamplungedwithdeafeningroar，andsodeepthatfordingwasoutofthequestion。Aman’slifewouldnothavebeenwortharushinit。
Wefolloweduptheboulderbankinsearchofamorepropitiousspot。
Thenwefolloweddownagain。Eachplacepromisedatadistance，andbaulkedhopeathand。Atlast，indespair，wecametoahaltoppositethewidestandshallowestpart，andafternoendofurging，oneoftheportersstripped，and，armedwithhispole，venturedin。
Thechannellaywellovertothefartherside;thricehegottoitsneareredgeandthriceheturnedback，astherushofwaterbecametoogreat。Hislifewasworthtoomuchtohim，hesaid，notunnaturally，forhimtothrowitaway。Yetcrossthestreamwemust，orreturnignominiously;forthepathwehadsofarfollowedhadfallenoverthecliffinfront。
Weimprovedthemomentsofreflectiontohavelunch。Whilewewerestilldiscussingviaeandviands，andhadnearlycometotheendofboth，wesuddenlyspiedastringofmendefilingslowlydownthroughthewideboulderdesertontheotherside。Weallroseandhailedthem。Theyweresofarawaythatatfirsttheyfailedtohearus，andevenwhentheyheardtheystaredvacantlyaboutthemlikemenwhoheartheyknownotwhat。Whenatlasttheycaughtsightofus，webeckonedexcitedly。Theyconsulted，apparently，andthenoneofthemcamedowntotheedgeofthestream。Thetorrentmadesomuchnoisethatourmencouldmakethemselvesintelligibleonlyinpart，andthatbybawlingatthetopoftheirlungs。Throughtheenvoy，theyinvitedthebandtostringthemselvesacrossthestreamandsopassourthingsover。Themanshookhishead。Werosetofabuloussumsandstillherepeatedhispantomime。ItthenoccurredtoYejirothatacertainplacelowerdownmightpossiblybebridged，andbeckoningtothemantofollow，heledthewaytothespotinmind。Aboulder，two-thirdswayinstream，seemedtoofferapier。Hetriedtoshouthisidea，buttheroarofthetorrent，narrowthoughitwas，drownedhisvoice;so，writingonapieceofpaper：\"Whatwillyoutaketobuildusabridge？\"hewrappedthepaperroundastoneandflungitover。Afterreadingthismissive，thespokesmanheldaconsultationwithhisfriendsandabargainwasstruck。Forthehugesumoftwoyen（adollarandahalf），theyagreedtobuildusabridge，andatoncesetoffupthemountainsideforatree。
Themen，itseemed，wereabandofwood-cutterswhohadwintered，aswastheircustom，inahutatKurobe，whichwasthissideoftheHarinokitoge，andwerejustcomeoutfromtheirhibernation。
TheywerenowontheirwaytoAshikura，wheretheybelonged，toreporttotheirheadman，obtainsuppliesandstarttoreturnontheafter-morrow。Itwasatwo-days’journeyeitheroutorin。
Bridges，therefore，cameoftheirtrade。Thedistanceacrosstheboulderbedwasconsiderable，andastheytoiledslowlyupthefaceoftheoppositemountain，theylookedlikesomanyants。Pickingoutatrunk，theybegantodragitdown。Bydegreestheygotittotheriverbed，andthenceeventuallytotheedgeofthestream。Tolayitwasquiteafeatofengineering。Withsomepiecesofdrift-woodwhichtheyfoundlyingabout，theythrewaspantothebigboulder，andfromthebouldermanagedtogetthetrunkacross。Then，withropewhichtheycarriedattheirgirdles，theylashedthewholetogetheruntiltheyhadpatchedupaveryworkmanlikeaffair。
Wetrodacrossintriumph。Withpraiseworthycarelestitshouldbesweptawaytheythentookthethingalldownagain。
Suchvaluablepeoplewerenotidlytobepartedwith。Herewasararechancetogetguides。When，however，weapproachedthemonthepoint，theyallprovedsoconscientiousaboutgoinghomefirst，thattheattemptfailed。Buttheygaveussomeimportantinformationonthestateofthestreamsaheadandthemeansofcrossingthem，andweseparatedwithmuchmutualgood-will。
FormypartIfeltasifwehadalreadyarrivedsomewhere。Ilittleknewwhatlaybeyond。WhileIwasploddingalonginthisblissfullyignorantstateofmind，communingwithapipe，thepath，whichhadfriskedinandoutforsometimeamongtheboulders，suddenlytookitintoitsheadtoscaleacliffontheleft。Itdidthis，asitseemedtome，withoutprovocation，afteracertainrecklessfashionofitsown。Thehigheritclimbed，themorefoolhardyitgot，tillthedown-lookgrewunpleasant。Thenittooktocoquettingwiththegulfonitsrightuntil，asIknewwouldhappen，itlostitsheadcompletelyandfellovertheedge。Thegaphadbeenspannedbyafewlooseboards。Overthemakeshiftweall，oneaftertheother，gingerlycrawled，eachwaitinghisturn，withtheabyssgapingonhisside，fortheoneinfronttomoveon。
Wehadnotyetrecoveredfromtheshockwhenwecametoanotherplacenotunlikethefirst。Hereagainthepathhadgivenway，andacoupleoflogshadbeenlashedacrosstheinnerelbowofthecliff。
Wecrossedthisbybalancingourselvesforthefirsttwostepsbythestumpofabushthatjuttedoutfromacreviceintherock;forthenexttwowetouchedthecliffwiththetipsofourfingers;forthelasttwowebalancedourselvesalone。
Forthetimebeingthegodsofhighplaceshadtemptedusenough，forthepathnowdescendedagaintothedrybedofthestream，andthereforacertaindistancetrippedalonginallsoberness，givingmethechancetolookaboutme。Theprecipitoussidesofthemountainsthatshutinthenarrowvalleywereheavilymaskedinforest;andforsometimepast，theravinesthatscoredtheirsideshadbeenpatchedwithsnow。Witheachnewmileofadvancethepatchesgrewlargerandmergedintooneanother，stretchingtowardthestream。Wenowbegantomeetsnowonthepath。Inthemeantime，fromonecauseandanother，insensiblyIfellbehind。Theotherspassedonoutofsight。
Thepath，havinglulledmeintoaconfidingunconcern，startedinseeminginnocenceofpurposetoclimbagain。Itsingenuousnessbutprefacedamalicioussurprise。Forofasudden，unmaskingacorner，itpresenteditselfinprofileahead，anarrowledgenotchedinnakedsimplicityagainsttheprecipice。Thingslookbetterslightlyveiled;besides，itismoredecent，eveninapath。Inthiscasetheshamelessnesswasearnestoftheundoing。ForonreachingthepointinviewandturningitIstoodconfrontedbyasightsorryindeed。
Thepathbeyondhadvanished。Farbelow，outofsightovertheedge，laythetorrent;unscalablethecliffroseabove;andalineoffossilfootprints，leadingacrossthefaceoftheprecipiceinthedebris，alonemarkedwherethepathhadbeen。Spectrestheyseemedoftheirformerselves。CrusoecouldnothavebeenmorehorrifiedthanwasI。
Nottohavecomesuggesteditselfasthepropersolution，unfortunatelyanimpracticableone，andbeingthere，toturnbackwasinadmissible。
SoItookmyselfinhandandstarted。ForthefirstfewstepsIwasfartoomuchgivenuptoconsideringpossibilities。Ithoughthowasinglemisstepwouldend。Icouldseemyfootingslip，feeltheconsciousnessthatIwasgone，thedullthudsfrompointtopointaswhatremainedofmeboundedbeyondthevisibleedgedown，down……
Andafterthatwhat！Howlongbeforetheportersmissedmeandcamebackinsearch？Wouldtherebeanytracetotellwhathadbefallen？
AndthenYejiroreturningalonetoTokyotoreport——lostontheDragonpeak！EachtimeIalmostfeltmyfootgivewayasIputitdown，rightbeforeleft，leftbeforeright。
ThenIrealizedthatthisinopportuneflirtingwithfatemuststop;
thatImustgiveoverdallyingwithsensations，oritwouldsoonbealloverwithme。IwasfallingapreytothenativeLorelei——forallthesespotsinJapanhavetheirfamiliardevils——subjectively，asbefitsamodernman。InumbedsensibilityasbestIcouldandcaredonlytomakeeachstepsecure。BetweentheNirvanawithinandtheNirvanabelow，itwasasorryhell。
Inmid-careerthepathmadeanattempttorecover，butrelapsedtofurtherfootprintsinthesand。Atlastitdescendedtoabrook。
Iknelttodrink，andongettingupagainsawmypocket-handkerchiefwhiskingmerrilyawaydownstream。Igavechase，butinvain;forthoughitcametothesurfaceonceortwicetotantalizemeitwasgonebeforeIcouldseizeit。SoIgaveoverthepursuit，reflectingthat，afterall，itmighthavefaredworsewithme。IftheLoreleihadhopedtoturnmyhead，Iwaswellquitofmyhandkerchiefforheronlytrophy。
Shortlyafterthis，themainstreamdividedintotwo，andtheleftbranch，whichwefollowed，leduptoagorge，——beyondadoubttheabominationofdesolationspokenofbytheprophet。Idonotrememberalandscapemoreghastly。Notatree，notabladeofgrass，notevendecentearthinthewholeprospect。Apparently，theplacehadbeenflayedaliveandsulphurhadthenbeenpouredintothesore。
Thirtyyearsbeforeacataclysmhadoccurredhere。Thesideofoneofthemountainshadslidbodilyintothevalley。Thedebris，bydammingupthestream，causedafreshet，whichswepteverythingbeforeitandkilledquantitiesoffolklowerdownthevalley。
Theplaceitselfhasneverrecoveredtothisday。
Althoughthestreamherewasababytotheonebelow，itwaslargeenoughtobeimpassabletothenaturalman。Fromourwoodcutterfriends，however，wehadlearnedoftheleavingsofabridge，uponwhichinduetimewecame，andputtingthepartsofitinplace，wepassedsuccessfullyover。
Wenowbegantoenterthesnowingoodearnest，incipientglaciersnow，treacherouslyhoneycombed。Itmade，however，moreagreeablewalkingthantheboulders。Thepathhadagainbecomeprecipitous，andkeptonmounting，tillofasuddenitlandedusuponanamphitheatralarena，dominatedbyhigh，jaggedpeaks。Oneunbrokenstretchofsnowcoveredtheplateau，andatthecentreofthewintrywinding-sheetaclusterofweather-beatenhutsappealedpitiablytotheeye。TheywerethebuildingsoftheRiuzanjitahot-springs;insummerasortofsecularmonasteryforpilgrimstotheDragonpeak。
Theyweretenantednow，wehadbeentold，byacoupleofwatchmen。
Westruckoutwithfreerstrides，whilethemoon，whichhadbythistimerisenhighenoughtoovertopthewallofpeaks，watcheduswithanashenface，asinsinglefilewemovedacrossthewasteoflevelwhite。
XVI。
Riuzanjita。
Wemadeforthemainhut，alow，mouse-coloredshantyfastasleepanddeepdriftedinsnow。Theadvanceportersummonedtheplace，andthesummonsdrewtowhatdidfordooramanasmouselikeashismansion。
Hehadabouthimasubdued，monkishdemeanorthatonlypartiallyhidanalertnesswithin，——asecularmonkbefittingthespot。Heshowedhimselfakindlybody，andafterhehadhelpedtheportersoffwiththeirpacks，ledthewayintotheroominwhichheandhismatehibernated。Itwasaroomverymuchintherough;boardsforwalls，forceiling，forfloor，itsonlyfurnishingafire。Itwasthebestoffurnishinginoureyes，andwehastedtosquatrounditinacircle，inattitudesofextremedevotion，foritwasbittercold。
Themonkishwatchmanthrewahandfulmoretwigsontheembers，outofacheerfulhospitalitytohisguests。
Thefireplacewasmerelyaholeinthefloor，accordingtoJapanesecustom，andthesmokefounditswayoutasbestitcould。Buttherewasverylittleofit;usually，indeed，thereisnone，forcharcoalisthecommoncombustible。Acauldronhung，byironbarsjointedtogether，fromthegloomabove。Itwastwilightintheroom。
Alreadythedaywithoutwasfadingfast，andevenathighnoon，nonetoomuchofitcouldfindawayintothebuilding，nowhalfburiedunderthesnow。Asecondwatchmansatmuffledinshadowonthefarthersideofthefire。Hemadehispresenceknown，fromtimetotime，byoccasionalsympatheticgutturals，orbythesuddenglowofabitofcharcoal，whichhetookoutoftheemberswithapairofchopstickfire-ironstorelighthispipe。Thetalknaturallyturneduponourexpedition，withYejiroforspokesman，andfromthateasilyslidintotheall-importantquestionofguides。Ourinquiriesonthisheadelicitednothingbutdoubt。Wetriedatfirsttogetthewatchmentogo。Butthistheypositivelyrefusedtodo。Theycouldnotleavetheircharge，inthefirstplace，theysaid;andforthesecond，theydidnotknowthepath。Weaskediftherewasnoonewhodid。Therewasahunter，theysaid，nearbywhowasbywayofknowingtheroad。Amessengerwassentatoncetofetchhim。
Inthemeantime，iftheyshowedthemselvesskepticalaboutourfuture，theyprovedmostsympatheticoverourpast。OurdescriptionoftheFridayfootprintsespeciallybroughtoutmuchfellow-feeling。
Theyknewthespotwell，theysaid，anditwasverybad。InfactitwascalledtheOnigaJo，orplaceofmanydevils，foritsfearfulness。
Itwouldbebetter，theyadded，afterthemountainopeningonthetenthofJune。
\"Mountainopening！\"saidItoYejiro;\"whatisthat？Isitanythinglikethe’riveropening’？\"FortheJapanesewordsseemedtoimplynotaphysical，butaformalunlockingofthehills，liketheannualreligiousriteupontheSumidagawainTokyo。Such，itappeared，itwas。ForthetenthofJune，hesaid，wasthedateofthemountain-climbingfestival。Yearlyonthatdayallthesacredpeaksarethrownopentoapiouspublicforascent。Aprocessionofpilgrims，headedbyaflautistandabellman，wendtheirwaytothesummit，andthereencamp。Forthreedaystheceremonylasts，afterwhichthemountainsareobjectsofpilgrimagetillthetwenty-eighthdayofAugust。Fortherestoftheyearthesummitsareheldtobeshut，thegodsbeingtheninconclave，todisturbwhomweretheheightofimpiety。Apleasingcoincidenceofdutyandpleasure，thatthescalingofthepeaksshouldbeenjoinedtopilgrimsatthetimesofeasiestascent！Preparatorytotheprocessionallthepathsofapproacharerepaired。Itwasthisrepairingtowhichthewatchmenreferredandwhichconcernedoursecularselves。
Ourdifficultiesbegantobeexplained。Wewereveryclosetocommittingsacrilege。Wehadhad，itistrue，nodesignsonthepeaks，butwerewewhollyguiltlessinattemptingsomuchasthepassesinthisthecloseseason？Apparentlynot。Atallevents，wewereamonthaheadoftimeinourvisit，whichinitselfwasofquestionableetiquette。
Atthispointthemessengersenttofindthehunterreturnedwithouthisman。Evidentlythehunterwasapersonwhomeanttostandwellwithhisgods，orelsehewashimselfamyth。
Distraughtinmindandrestlessinbody，Igotupandwentoutintothegreatsnowwaste。Thesunsetafterglowwasjustfadingintothemoonshine。Theeffectuponthepurewhitesheetbeforemewasindescribablybeautiful。Thewarmtintofthelastofday，asitwaned，dissolvedimperceptiblyintothecoldlustreofthenightasifsomealchemistweresubtlychangingthesubstancewhilehekepttheform。Foranewspiritwasslowlypossessingitselfoftheveryshapesthathadheldtheold，andthesnowlookedverysilent，verycold，veryghostly，glisteninginitssilversheen。
Theskywasbitterlyclear，inhumanlycold。Tocallitfrostyweretohumanizeit。Itsexpansestretchedfarmorefrozenthanthefrozenearth。Indeed，thenightskyisalwaysawful。Forthemostpart，weforgetitforthekindlierprospectofthecradlingtrees，andthewhispersofthewind，andtheperfumesofthefields，thesightsandsoundsthateveninslumberstirwithlife;andthenearerthrustawaytherealhorrorofthefar。Buttheawespeakswithinsistencewhentheforegrounditselfisdead。
Shivering，Ireturnedtothefireandhumancompanionship。
Theconversationagainrolleduponprecipices，whichitappearedweremorenumerousbeforethanbehind，andcasualtiesamongthewoodcuttersnotunknowninconsequence。Therewasoneplace，theysaid，where，ifyouslipped，youwentdownari（twomilesandahalf）。
Itwashereawoodcutterhadbeenlostthreedaysbefore。Therimusthavebeenaflightoffancy，sinceitfarexceededtheheightofthepassabovethesea。Butahandsomediscountfromthestatementleftanunpleasantbalancetocontemplate。
Thisdeathhadfrightenedoneofthewatchmenbadly，asitmaywellhavedone。Thefactswerethese。SeparatedfromthehotspringsofRiuzanjitabytwopasseslayavalley，uninhabitedexceptfortwobandsofwoodcutters，whohadbuiltthemselvesacoupleofhuts，oneoneithersidethestream，inwhichtheylivedtheyearround。
ItwasthesehutsthatwentbythenameofKurobe。Duringthewintertheywereentirelycutofffromtheoutsideworld。Assoonaspracticableinthespring，apartofeachbandwasaccustomedtocomeoutoverthepasses，descendtoAshikura，andreturnwithprovisionsandmoney。
Nowthisyear，beforethemeninthevalleyhadthoughtittimetoattemptthepasses，asolitarywoodcuttercameuptothehotspringsfrombelow，and，inspiteofwarningfromthewatchmen，startedaloneforKurobe。Ontheafternoonofthethirddayafterhisdeparture，theregularbandturnedupatRiuzanjita，havingleftKurobe，itseemed，thatmorning。Theypassedthenightatthehotspringshut，andonbeingquestionedbythewatchmenaboutthemanofthreedaysbefore，theysaidtheyhadheardofnosuchperson。Itturnedout，tothehorrorofbothparties，thathehadneverreachedKurobe。
Itwasonlythenightbeforewearrivedthatthewoodcuttershadbeenthere，andtheaffairwasstillterriblyfreshinthewatchman’sthoughts;infact，itwastheidenticalbandthathadbuiltusourbridge。Thesemenwerethoroughlyequippedforsnow-climbingandhadcomeoversafely;andyet，asitwas，theheadmanoftheotherbandatKurobehadbeenafraidtocrosswiththem，andhad，instead，goneallthewayroundbytheriverandthesea，averylongandroughjourney。Fatalaccidents，thewatchmensaid，wereofyearlyoccurrenceonthepasses。
AndallthiswasonlythewaytoKurobe。BeyonditlaytheHarinokitoge。Thatpassnoonehadyetcrossedthisyear。Andatintervalsduringthetalkthewatchmanrepeatedexcitedly，asasortofrefrain，\"Itisimpossibletogoon，——itisimpossibletogoon。\"
Thistalk，apartofwhichIunderstood，wasnotveryheartening，followingasitdidthepersonalexperienceoftheOnigaJo。
Theprospectbegantolooktoouncertaininitsconclusionandtoocertaininitspremisestobeinviting。Ifprofessionals，properlyaccoutred，foundcrossingsodangerousamatter，theplacewashardlyoneforunprovidedamateurs。Thesemountaineerswerenottiedtogether，butworeovertheirwaraji，orstrawsandals，asetofironscalledkanakajiki。Wewereshownsomeofthemwhichhadbeenleftbythewoodcuttersagainsttheirreturn。Theywereskeletonsandals，ironbandsshodwiththreespikes。TheylookedlikeinstrumentsoftorturefromtheMiddleAges，andindeedweresaidtobeindispensableagainstbacksliding。
Ontheotherhand，oneBlondinfeatovertheDevilPlacewasenoughforme。Totakeitontheroadratherthanturnbackwasonething，tostarttotakeitincoldbloodanother。Ihadhadquiteenoughofbalancinganddoubt。SoIaskediftherewasnootherwayout。
Wemight，theysaid，gotoArimine。
\"Andhowwastheroad？\"
\"Oh，theroadwasgood，\"theyansweredcheerily。
\"Couldwegetaguide？\"
Apparentlywecouldnot，foranawkwardpauseensueduntil，aftersomesuspense，thebiggerofthetwowatchmen，hethatsatintheshadowofthecorner，volunteeredtopilotushimself;and，headded，weshouldnothavetostartbetimes，asthesnowwouldnotbefittotravelontillthesunhadmeltedthecrust。
UponthisdoublycomfortingconclusionIbadethemgood-night，andbetookmetothecell-likeroomallottedmetosleep。
XVII。
OvertheSnow。
WhenYejiropushedtheshojiandtheamado（nightshutters）apartinthemorning，hedisclosedabankofsnowfourfeetdeep;notasnowfallovernight，buttherelicofthewinter。Ifoundmyselfinasnowgrottobeyondwhichnothingwasvisible。Hethenimpartedtomethecheerfulnewsthatthewatchmanhadchangedhismind，andnowrefusedtosetoutwithus。Itwastoolateinthedaytostart，themansaid，which，inviewofhishavinginformedusonlythenightbeforethatthesnowwouldnotbefittotravelontillthisveryhour，wasscarcelylogical。Thetroublelaynotintheway，butinthewill。Themanhadrepentedhimofhispromise。Thingslookdifferentlyascertaintiesinthemorningfromwhattheydoaspossibilitiesovernight。Fortunatelyheprovedamenabletoimportunity，andfinallyconsentedtogo。Hisfellowwasmuchworried，andfollowedhimdistressfullytotheouterthreshold;
whenceinperturbationofspirithewatchedusdepart，callingoutpatheticallytohismatetobeverycarefulofhimself。Hisalmostmotherlysolicitudeseemedtomemorecomicalatthetimethanitcametoseemlater。
Theskywaswithoutafleckofcloud，and，aswestruckoutacrossthesnow，Ifearedatfirstformyeyes，sogreatwastheglare。
ForIhadneithergogglesnorveil。Infact，wewereasunpreparedatroopaseverstartedonsuchanexpedition。Wehadnotapairoffootspikesnoraspikedpoletothelotofus。
Thejaggedpeaksofthevalley’swallnotchedtheskyinvividrelief，theirsharpteethbitingtheblue。Webelowwereblinking。
Luckilybeforeverylongwehadcrossedthelevelandwereattackingthewall，andonceonittheglarelessened，forwewerefacingthesouth，andtheslantoftheslopetookofffromthedirectnessofthesun’srays。Thehigherwerose，thegreaterthetiltbecame。Thefaceoftheslopewascompletelyburiedinsnowexceptwherethearetesstuckthrough，forthefacewaswellwrinkled。Theanglesoongrewunpleasanttovisage，andcertainlylookedtohaveexceededthelimitofstableequilibrium。Inmid-ascent，aswewerewindingcautiouslyup，aporterslipped。Hestoppedhimself，however，andwashelpedontohisfeetagainbyhisfellowbehind。Thebadbitwasprefacetoaworseeffectroundthecorner，foronturningthearete，wecameuponasnowslopelikeagigantichouse-roof。Itwasassteepasyouplease，anddisappearedafewhundredfeetbelowovertheedgeintotheabyss。Acrossandupthistheguide，afterlookingabouthim，struckout，andIfollowed。Thesnowwasinaplasticstate，andateachstepIkickedmytoeswellin，sowedgingmyfooting。Theviewdownwasveryunnerving。ItsoongrewsobadI
fixedmythoughtsolelyonmakingeachstepsecure，andwentslowly，whichwasmuchagainstmyinclination。Inthismannerwetackedgraduallyupwardinzigzags，somefortyfeetapart，eachofusimprovingthefootprintsofhispredecessor。
Afterashorteternity，wecameoutatthetop。Ithrewmyselfuponthesnow，andwhenIhadsufficientlyrecoveredmybreathaskedtheguide，withwhatImeantforsarcasm，whetherthatwashisideaof\"agoodroad。\"Heownedthatitwastheworstbitontheway，buthesomewhatgrudginglyconcededita\"gake。\"Isatcorrected，butintheinterestofanyfuturewandererIsubmitthefollowingdefinitionofa\"gake，\"which，ifnotstrictlyaccurate，atleastleanstotherightside。Ifthecliffoverhang，itisa\"gake;\"butifaplumblinefromthetopfallanywherewithinthebase，itisnolongera\"gake，\"but\"agoodroad。\"
Ontheothersidetheslopewasmorehospitable。Eventreeswinteredjustbelowthecrest，theirgreatgaunttrunksthrustdeepintothesnow。Weglissadeddownthefirstfewhundredfeet，tillwebroughtupstandingattheheadofanincipientgorge，likewisesmotheredinsnow。Roundthebolesofthetreesthesnowhadbeguntothaw，whichgavemeachancetomeasureitsdepth，byleaningovertherimofthecupandthrustingmypoledownasfarasIcouldreach。Thepointofitmusthavebeenoversevenfeetfromthesurface，andittouchednobottom。Myinvestigationstooktimeenoughtoputabendofthehollowbetweenmeandtheothers，andwhenatlastIlookeduptheywerenowheretobeseen。AsItrudgedafterthemaloneIfeltlikethatcominghistoricalcharacter，thelastmanonourthenfrozenearth。