CircumstancestookmetotheHolyLandwithoutacompanion，andcompelledmetovisitBethany，theMountofOlives，andtheChurchoftheSepulchrealone。Iacknowledgemyselftobeagregariousanimal，or，perhaps，ratheroneofthosewhichnaturehasintendedtogoinpairs。AtanyrateIdislikesolitude，andespeciallytravellingsolitude，andwas，therefore，rathersadatheartasI
satonenightatZ-’shotel，inJerusalem，thinkingovermyproposedwanderingsforthenextfewdays。EarlyonthefollowingmorningI
intendedtostart，ofcourseonhorseback，fortheDeadSea，thebanksofJordan，Jericho，andthosemountainsofthewildernessthroughwhichitissupposedthatOurSaviourwanderedforthefortydayswhenthedeviltemptedhim。IwouldthenreturntotheHolyCity，andremainingonlylongenoughtorefreshmyhorseandwipethedustfrommyhandsandfeet，IwouldstartagainforJaffa，andtherecatchacertainAustriansteamerwhichwouldtakemetoEgypt。
Suchwasmyprogramme，andIconfessthatIwasbutillcontentedwithit，seeingthatIwastobealoneduringthetime。
Ihadalreadymadeallmyarrangements，andthoughIhadnoreasonforanydoubtastomypersonalsecurityduringthetrip，Ididnotfeelaltogethersatisfiedwiththem。IintendedtotakeaFrenchguide，ordragoman，whohadbeenwithmeforsomedays，andtoputmyselfunderthepeculiarguardianshipoftwoBedouinArabs，whoweretoaccompanymeaslongasIshouldremaineastofJerusalem。
ThistravellingthroughthedesertundertheprotectionofBedouinswas，inidea，pleasantenough；andImustheredeclarethatIdidnotatallbegrudgethefortyshillingswhichIwastoldbyourBritishconsulthatImustpaythemfortheirtrouble，inaccordancewiththeestablishedtariff。ButIdidbegrudgethefactofthetariff。IwouldratherhavefalleninwithmyfriendlyArabs，asitwerebychance，andhaverewardedtheirfidelityattheendofourjointjourneyingsbyadonationofpiastrestobesettledbymyself，andwhich，undersuchcircumstances，wouldcertainlyhavebeenasagreeabletothemasthestipulatedsum。InthesamewayIdislikehavingwaitersputdowninmybill。IfindthatIpaythemtwiceover，andthuslosemoney；andastheydonotexpecttobesotreated，Ineverhavetheadvantageoftheircivility。Theworld，I
fear，isbecomingtoofondoftariffs。
\"Atariff！\"saidItotheconsul，feelingthatthewholeromanceofmyexpeditionwouldbedissipatedbysuchanarrangement。\"ThenI’llgoalone；I’lltakearevolverwithme。\"
\"Youcan’tdoit，sir，\"saidtheconsul，inadryandsomewhatangrytone。\"Youhavenomorerighttoridethroughthatcountrywithoutpayingtheregularpriceforprotection，thanyouhavetostopinZ-
’shotelwithoutsettlingthebill。\"
Icouldnotcontestthepoint，soIorderedmyBedouinsfortheappointedday，exactlyasIwouldsendforaticket-porterathome，anddeterminedtomakethebestofit。Thewildunlimitedsands，thedesolationoftheDeadSea，therushingwatersofJordan，theoutlinesofthemountainsofMoab；——thosethingstheconsulartariffcouldnotalter，nordeprivethemofthegloriesoftheirassociation。
Ihadsubmitted，andthearrangementshadbeenmade。Joseph，mydragoman，wastocometomewiththehorsesandanArabgroomatfiveinthemorning，andweweretoencounterourBedouinsoutsidethegateofSt。Stephen，downthehill，wheretheroadturns，closetothetomboftheVirgin。
Iwassittingaloneinthepublicroomatthehotel，fillingmyflaskwithbrandy，——formattersofprimaryimportanceIneverleavetoservant，dragoman，orguide，——whenthewaiterentered，andsaidthatagentlemanwishedtospeakwithme。Thegentlemanhadnotsentinhiscardorname；butanygentlemanwaswelcometomeinmysolitude，andIrequestedthatthegentlemanmightenter。Inappearancethegentlemancertainlywasagentleman，forIthoughtthatIhadneverbeforeseenayoungmanwhoselooksweremoreinhisfavour，orwhosefaceandgaitandoutwardbearingseemedtobetokenbetterbreeding。Hemightbesometwentyortwenty-oneyearsofage，wasslightandwellmade，withveryblackhair，whichheworeratherlong，verydarklongbrighteyes，astraightnose，andteeththatwereperfectlywhite。Hewasdressedthroughoutingreytweedclothing，havingcoat，waistcoat，andtrousersofthesame；andinhishandhecarriedaverybroad-brimmedstrawhat。
\"Mr。Jones，Ibelieve，\"hesaid，ashebowedtome。Jonesisagoodtravellingname，and，ifthereaderwillallowme，IwillcallmyselfJonesonthepresentoccasion。
\"Yes，\"Isaid，pausingwiththebrandy-bottleinonehand，andtheflaskintheother。\"That’smyname；I’mJones。CanIdoanythingforyou，sir？\"
\"Why，yes，youcan，\"saidhe。\"MynameisSmith，——JohnSmith。\"
\"Praysitdown，Mr。Smith，\"Isaid，pointingtoachair。\"Willyoudoanythinginthisway？\"andIproposedtohandthebottletohim。
\"AsfarasIcanjudgefromashortstay，youwon’tfindmuchlikethatinJerusalem。\"
HedeclinedtheCognac，however，andimmediatelybeganhisstory。
\"Ihear，Mr。Jones，\"saidhe，\"thatyouaregoingtoMoabto-
morrow。\"
\"Well，\"Ireplied，\"Idon’tknowwhetherIshallcrossthewater。
It’snotveryeasy，Itakeit，atalltimes；butIshallcertainlygetasfarasJordan。CanIdoanythingforyouinthoseparts？\"
Andthenheexplainedtomewhatwastheobjectofhisvisit。HewasquitealoneinJerusalem，asIwasmyself；andwasstayingatH-
’shotel。HehadheardthatIwasstartingfortheDeadSea，andhadcalledtoaskifIobjectedtohisjoiningme。Hehadfoundhimself，hesaid，verylonely；andashehadheardthatIalsowasalone，hehadventuredtocallandmakehisproposition。Heseemedtobeverybashful，andhalfashamedofwhathewasdoing；andwhenhehaddonespeakinghedeclaredhimselfconsciousthathewasintruding，andexpressedahopethatIwouldnothesitatetosaysoifhissuggestionwerefromanycausedisagreeabletome。
AsaruleIamrathershyofchancetravellingEnglishfriends。IthassofrequentlyhappenedtomethatIhavehadtoblushfortheacquaintanceswhomIhaveselected，thatIseldomindulgeinanycloseintimaciesofthiskind。But，nevertheless，IwastakenwithJohnSmith，inspiteofhisname。Therewassomuchabouthimthatwaspleasant，bothtotheeyeandtotheunderstanding！Onemeetsconstantlywithmenfromcontactwithwhomonerevoltswithoutknowingthecauseofsuchdislike。Thecutoftheirbeardisdispleasing，orthemodeinwhichtheywalkorspeak。But，ontheotherhand，therearemenwhoareattractive，andImustconfessthatIwasattractedbyJohnSmithatfirstsight。Ihesitated，however，foraminute；fortherearesundrythingsofwhichitbehovesatravellertothinkbeforehecanjoinacompanionforsuchajourneyasthatwhichIwasabouttomake。Couldtheyoungmanriseearly，andremaininthesaddlefortenhourstogether？Couldheliveuponhard-boiledeggsandbrandy-and-water？Couldhetakehischanceofatentunderwhichtosleep，andmakehimselfhappywiththebarefactofbeinginthedesert？Hesawmyhesitation，andattributedittoacausewhichwasnotpresentinmymindatthemoment，thoughthesubjectwasoneofthegreatestimportancewhenstrangersconsenttojointhemselvestogetherforatime，andagreetobecomenostrangersonthespurofthemoment。
\"OfcourseIwilltakehalftheexpense，\"saidhe，absolutelyblushingashementionedthematter。
\"Astothattherewillbeverylittle。Youhaveyourownhorse，ofcourse？\"
\"Oh，yes。\"
\"Mydragomanandgroom-boywilldoforboth。Butyou’llhavetopayfortyshillingstotheArabs！There’snogettingoverthat。Theconsulwon’tevenlookafteryourdeadbody，ifyougetmurdered，withoutgoingthroughthatceremony。\"
Mr。Smithimmediatelyproducedhispurse，whichhetenderedtome。
\"Ifyouwillmanageitall，\"saidhe，\"itwillmakeitsomuchtheeasier，andIshallbeinfinitelyobligedtoyou。\"ThisofcourseI
declinedtodo。Ihadnobusinesswithhispurse，andexplainedtohimthatifwewenttogetherwecouldsettlethatonourreturntoJerusalem。\"Butcouldhegothroughreallyhardwork？\"Iasked。Heansweredmewithanassurancethathewouldandcoulddoanythinginthatwaythatitwaspossibleformantoperform。Asforeatinganddrinkinghecarednothingaboutit，andwouldundertaketobeastiratanyhourofthemorningthatmightbenamed。Asforsleepingaccommodation，hedidnotcareifhekepthisclothesonforaweektogether。Helookedslightandweak；buthespokesowell，andthatwithoutboasting，thatIultimatelyagreedtohisproposal，andinafewminuteshetookhisleaveofme，promisingtobeatZ-’sdoorwithhishorseatfiveo’clockonthefollowingmorning。
\"Iwishyou’dallowmetoleavemypursewithyou，\"hesaidagain。
\"Icannotthinkofit。Thereisnopossibleoccasionforit，\"I
saidagain。\"Ifthereisanythingtopay，I’llaskyouforitwhenthejourneyisover。Thatfortyshillingsyoumustforkout。It’salawoftheMedesandPersians。\"
\"I’dbettergiveityouatonce，\"hesaidagain，offeringmemoney。
ButIwouldnothaveit。ItwouldbequitetimeenoughforthatwhentheArabswereleavingus。
\"Because，\"headded，\"strangers，Iknow，aresometimessuspiciousaboutmoney；andIwouldnot，forworlds，haveyouthinkthatI
wouldputyoutoexpense。\"IassuredhimthatIdidnotthinkso，andthenthesubjectwasdropped。
Hewas，atanyrate，uptohistime，forwhenIcamedownonthefollowingmorningIfoundhiminthenarrowstreet，thefirstonhorseback。Joseph，theFrenchman，wasstrappingontoaroughponyourbelongings，andwasstaringatMr。Smith。Mynewfriend，unfortunately，couldnotspeakawordofFrench，andthereforeIhadtoexplaintothedragomanhowithadcometopassthatourpartywastobeenlarged。
\"ButtheBedouinswillexpectfullpayforboth，\"saidhe，alarmed。
Meninthatclass，andespeciallyOrientals，alwaysthinkthateveryarrangementoflife，letitbemadeinwhatwayitwill，ismadewiththeintentionofsavingsomeexpense，orcheatingsomebodyoutofsomemoney。Theydonotunderstandthatmencanhaveanyotherobject，andareeverontheirguardlestthesavingshouldbemadeattheircost，orlesttheyshouldbethevictimsofthefraud。
\"Allright，\"saidI。
\"Ishallberesponsible，Monsieur，\"saidthedragoman，piteously。
\"Itshallbeallright，\"saidI，again。\"Ifthatdoesnotsatisfyyou，youmayremainbehind。\"
\"IfMonsieursaysitisallright，ofcourseitisso；\"andthenhecompletedhisstrapping。Wetookblanketswithus，ofwhichIhadtoborrowtwooutofthehotelformyfriendSmith，asmallhamperofprovisions，asackcontainingforageforthehorses，andalargeemptyjar，sothatwemightsupplyourselveswithwaterwhenleavingtheneighbourhoodofwellsforanyconsiderabletime。
\"Ioughttohavebroughtthesethingsformyself，\"saidSmith，quiteunhappyatfindingthathehadthrownonmethenecessityofcateringforhim。ButIlaughedathim，sayingthatitwasnothing；
heshoulddoasmuchformeanothertime。IampreparedtoownthatIdonotwillinglyrushup-stairsandloadmyselfwithblanketsoutofstrangeroomsformenwhomIdonotknow；nor，asarule，doI
makealltheSmithsoftheworldfreeofmycanteen。But，withreferencetothisfellowIdidfeelmorethanordinarilygood-
naturedandunselfish。Therewassomethinginthetoneofhisvoicewhichwassatisfactory；andIshouldreallyhavefeltvexedhadanythingoccurredatthelastmomenttopreventhisgoingwithme。
LetitbearulewitheverymantocarryanEnglishsaddlewithhimwhentravellingintheEast。OfwhatmaterialisformedthenethermanofaTurkIhaveneverbeeninformed，butIamsurethatitisnotfleshandblood。Nofleshandblood，——simplyfleshandblood，——
couldwithstandthewearandtearofaTurkishsaddle。Thisbeingthecase，andtheconsequencesbeingwellknowntome，IwasgrievedtofindthatSmithwasnotproperlyprovided。Hewasseatedononeofthosehard，red，high-pointedmachines，inwhichtheshovelsintendedtoactasstirrupsareattachedinsuchamanner，andhangatsuchanangle，astobeabsolutelydestructivetothelegofaChristian。ThereisnopartoftheChristianbodywithwhichtheTurkishsaddlecomesincontactthatdoesnotbecomemoreorlessmacerated。Ihavesatinonefordays，butIleftitaflayedman；
and，therefore，IwassorryforSmith。
Iexplainedthistohim，takingholdofhislegbythecalftoshowhowtheleatherwouldchafehim；butitseemedtomethathedidnotquitelikemyinterference。\"Nevermind，\"saidhe，twitchinghislegaway，\"Ihaveriddeninthiswaybefore。\"
\"Thenyoumusthavesufferedtheverymischief？\"
\"Onlyalittle，andIshallbeusedtoitnow。Youwillnothearmecomplain。\"
\"Byheavens，youmighthaveheardmecomplainamileoffwhenIcametotheendofajourneyIoncetook。IroaredlikeabullwhenI
begantocool。Joseph，couldyounotgetaEuropeansaddleforMr。
Smith？\"ButJosephdidnotseemtolikeMr。Smith，anddeclaredsuchathingtobeimpossible。NoEuropeaninJerusalemwouldthinkoflendingsopreciousanarticle，excepttoaverydearfriend。
JosephhimselfwasonanEnglishsaddle，andImadeupmymindthatafterthefirststage，wewouldbribehimtomakeanexchange。Andthenwestarted。
TheBedouinswerenotwithus，butweweretomeetthem，asIhavesaidbefore，outsideSt。Stephen’sgate。\"Andiftheyarenotthere，\"saidJoseph，\"weshallbesuretocomeacrossthemontheroad。\"
\"Notthere！\"saidI。\"Howabouttheconsul’stariff，iftheydon’tkeeptheirpartoftheengagement？\"ButJosephexplainedtomethattheirpartoftheengagementreallyamountedtothis，——thatweshouldrideintotheircountrywithoutmolestation，providedthatsuchandsuchpaymentsweremade。
ItwastheperiodofEaster，andJerusalemwasfullofpilgrims。
Evenatthatearlyhourofthemorningwecouldhardlymakeourwaythroughthenarrowstreets。ItmustbeunderstoodthatthereisnoaccommodationinthetownforthefourteenorfifteenthousandstrangerswhoflocktotheHolySepulchreatthisperiodoftheyear。Manyofthemsleepoutintheopenair，lyingonlowbencheswhichrunalongtheoutsidewallsofthehouses，orevenontheground，wrappedintheirthickhoodsandcloaks。Slumbererssuchastheseareeasilydisturbed，noraretheydetainedlongattheirtoilets。Theyshakethemselveslikedogs，andgrowlandstretchthemselves，andthentheyarereadyfortheday。
Werodeoutofthetowninalongfile。Firstwentthegroom-boy；I
forgethisproperSyrianappellation，butweusedtocallhimMucherry，thatsoundbeinginsomesortlikethename。Thenfollowedthehorsewiththeforageandblankets，andnexttohimmyfriendSmithintheTurkishsaddle。Iwasbehindhim，andJosephbroughtuptherear。WemovedslowlydowntheViaDolorosa，notingthespotatwhichourSaviourissaidtohavefallenwhilebearinghiscross；wepassedbyPilate’shouse，andpausedatthegateoftheTemple，——thegatewhichoncewasbeautiful，——lookingdownintotheholeofthepoolinwhichthemaimedandhaltwerehealedwheneverthewatersmoved。Whatnamestheyare！AndyetthereatJerusalemtheyarebandiedtoandfrowithaslittlereverenceasarethefancifulappellationsgivenbyguidestorocksandstonesandlittlelakesinallcountriesoverrunbytourists。
\"Forthosewhowouldstillfainbelieve，——letthemstayathome，\"
saidmyfriendSmith。
\"Forthosewhocannotdividethewheatfromthechaff，letTHEMstayathome，\"Ianswered。AndthenwerodeoutthroughSt。Stephen’sgate，havingthemountainofthemenofGalileedirectlybeforeus，andtheMountofOlivesalittletoourright，andtheValleyofJehoshaphatlyingbetweenusandit。\"Ofcourseyouknowalltheseplacesnow？\"saidSmith。IansweredthatIdidknowthemwell。
\"AndwasitnotbetterforyouwhenyouknewthemonlyinHolyWrit？\"heasked。
\"No，byJove，\"saidI。\"Themountainsstandwheretheyeverstood。
Thesamevalleysarestillgreenwiththemorningdew，andthewater-coursesareunchanged。ThechildrenofMahometmaybuildtheirtawdrytempleonthethreshing-floorwhichDavidboughtthattheremightstandtheLord’shouse。Manmayundowhatmandid，eventhoughthedoerwasSolomon。ButherewehaveGod’shandiworkandHisownevidences。\"
AtthebottomofthesteepdescentfromthecitygatewecametothetomboftheVirgin；andbyspecialagreementmadewithJosephweleftourhorseshereforafewmoments，inorderthatwemightdescendintothesubterraneanchapelunderthetomb，inwhichmasswasatthismomentbeingsaid。Thereissomethingawfulinthatchapel，when，asatthepresentmoment，itiscrowdedwithEasternworshippersfromtheveryaltaruptothetopofthedarkstepsbywhichthedescentismade。ItmustberememberedthatEasternworshippersarenotlikethechurchgoersofLondon，orevenofRomeorCologne。Theyarewildmenofvariousnationsandraces，——
MaronitesfromLebanonRoumelians，Candiotes，CoptsfromUpperEgypt，RussiansfromtheCrimea，ArmeniansandAbyssinians。TheysavourstronglyofOrientallifeandofOrientaldirt。Theyarecladinskinsorhairycloakswithhugehoods。Theirheadsareshaved，andtheirfacescoveredwithshort，grisly，fiercebeards。
Theyaresilentmostly，lookingoutoftheireyesferociously，asthoughmurderwereintheirthoughts，andrapine。Buttheyneverslouch，orcringeintheirbodies，orshuffleintheirgait。Dirty，fierce-looking，uncouth，repellentastheyare，thereisalwaysaboutthemasomethingofpersonaldignitywhichisnotcompatiblewithanEnglishman’sordinaryhatandpantaloons。
Aswewereabouttodescend，preparingtomakeourwaythroughthecrowd，Smithtookholdofmyarm。\"Thatwillneverdo，mydearfellow，\"saidI，\"thejobwillbetoughenoughforasinglefile，butweshouldnevercutourwaytwoandtwo。I’mbroad-shoulderedandwillgofirst。\"SoIdid，andgraduallyweworkedourwayintothebodyofthechapel。HowisitthatEnglishmencanpushthemselvesanywhere？Thesemenwerefierce-looking，andhadmurderandrapine，asIhavesaid，almostintheireyes。Onewouldhavesupposedthattheywerenotlambsordoves，capableofbeingthrusthereortherewithoutangerontheirpart；andthey，too，wereallanxioustodescendandapproachthealtar。Yetwedidwinourwaythroughthem，andapparentlynomanwasangrywithus。Idoubt，afterall，whetheraferociouseyeandastrongsmellanddirtaresoefficaciousincreatingaweandobedienceinothers，asanopenbrowandtracesofsoapandwater。Iknowthis，atleast，——thatadirtyMaronitewouldmakeverylittleprogress，ifheattemptedtoshovehiswayunfairlythroughacrowdofEnglishmenatthedoorofaLondontheatre。Wedidshoveunfairly，andwedidmakeprogress，tillwefoundourselvesinthecentreofthedensecrowdcollectedinthebodyofthechapel。
Havinggotsofar，ournextobjectwastogetoutagain。Theplacewasdark，mysterious，andfullofstrangeodours；butdarkness，mystery，andstrangeodourssoonlosetheircharmswhenmenhavemuchworkbeforethem。JosephhadmadeapointofbeingallowedtoattendmassbeforethealtaroftheVirgin，butaveryfewminutessufficedforhisprayers。Soweagainturnedroundandpushedourwaybackagain，Smithstillfollowinginmywake。Themenwhohadletuspassonceletuspassagainwithoutoppositionorshowofanger。Tothemtheoccasionwasveryholy。Theywerestretchingouttheirhandsineverydirection，withlongtapers，inorderthattheymightobtainasparkofthesacredfirewhichwasburningononeofthealtars。Aswemadeourwayoutwepassedmanywho，withdumbmotions，beggedustoassistthemintheirobject。Andwedidassistthem，gettinglightsfortheirtapers，handingthemtoandfro，andusingtheauthoritywithwhichweseemedtobeinvested。
ButSmith，Iobserved，wasmuchmorecourteousinthiswaytothewomenthantothemen，asIdidnotforgettoremindhimwhenwewereafterwardsonourroadtogether。
RemountingourhorseswerodeslowlyupthewindingascentoftheMountofOlives，turningroundatthebrowofthehilltolookbackoverJerusalem。SometimesIthinkthatofallspotsintheworldthisoneshouldbethespotmostcherishedinthememoryofChristians。ItwastherethatHestoodwhenHeweptoverthecity。
Somuchwedoknow，thoughweareignorant，andevershallbeso，ofthesiteofHiscrossandofthetomb。Andthenwedescendedontheeasternsideofthehill，passingthroughBethany，thetownofLazarusandhissisters，andturnedourfacessteadilytowardsthemountainsofMoab。
HithertowehadmetnoBedouins，andIinterrogatedmydragomanaboutthemmorethanonce；buthealwaystoldmethatitdidnotsignify；weshouldmeetthem，hesaid，beforeanydangercouldarise。\"Asfordanger，\"saidI，\"IthinkmoreofthisthanIdooftheArabs，\"andIputmyhandonmyrevolver。\"Butastheyagreedtobehere，heretheyoughttobe。Don’tyoucarryarevolver，Smith？\"
Smithsaidthatheneverhaddoneso，butthathewouldtakethechargeofmineifIliked。Tothis，however，Idemurred。\"Ineverpartwithmypistoltoanyone，\"Isaid，ratherdrily。Butheexplainedthatheonlyintendedtosignifythatifthereweredangertobeencountered，hewouldbegladtoencounterit；andIfullybelievedhim。\"Weshan’thavemuchfighting，\"Ireplied；\"butiftherebeany，thetoolwillcomereadiesttothehandofitsmaster。
ButifyoumeantoremainherelongIwouldadviseyoutogetone。
TheseOrientalsareapeoplewithwhomappearancesgoalongway，and，asarule，fearandrespectmeanthesamethingwiththem。A
pistolhangingoveryourloinsisnogreattroubletoyou，andlooksasthoughyoucouldbite。Manyadoggoesthroughtheworldwellbymerelyshowinghisteeth。\"
Andthenmycompanionbegantotalkofhimself。\"Hedidnot，\"hesaid，\"meantoremaininSyriaverylong。\"
\"NorIeither，\"saidI。\"Ihavedonewiththispartoftheworldforthepresent，andshalltakethenextsteamerfromJaffaforAlexandria。IshallonlyhaveonenightinJerusalemonmyreturn。\"
Afterthisheremainedsilentforafewmomentsandthendeclaredthatthatalsohadbeenhisintention。Hewasalmostashamedtosayso，however，becauseitlookedasthoughhehadresolvedtohookhimselfontome。Soheanswered，expressingalmostregretatthecircumstance。
\"Don’tletthattroubleyou，\"saidI；\"Ishallbedelightedtohaveyourcompany。Whenyouknowmebetter，asIhopeyouwilldo，youwillfindthatifsuchwerenotthecaseIshouldtellyousoasfrankly。IshallremaininCairosomelittletime；sothatbeyondourarrivalinEgypt，Icananswerfornothing。\"
HesaidthatheexpectedlettersatAlexandriawhichwouldgovernhisfuturemovements。Ithoughtheseemedsadashesaidso，andimagined，fromhismanner，thathedidnotexpectveryhappytidings。IndeedIhadmadeupmymindthathewasbynomeansfreefromcareorsorrow。Hehadnottheairofamanwhocouldsayofhimselfthathewas\"totusteresatquerotundus。\"ButIhadnowishtoinquire，andthematterwouldhavedroppedhadhenothimselfadded——\"IfearthatIshallmeetacquaintancesinEgyptwhomitwillgivemenopleasuretosee。\"
\"Then，\"saidI，\"ifIwereyou，IwouldgotoConstantinopleinstead；——indeed，anywhereratherthanfallamongfriendswhoarenotfriendly。Andthenearerthefriendis，themoreonefeelsthatsortofthing。Tomywayofthinking，thereisnothingonearthsopleasantasapleasantwife；butthen，whatistheresodamnableasonethatisunpleasant？\"
\"Areyouamarriedman？\"heinquired。Allhisquestionswereputinalowtoneofvoicewhichseemedtogivetothemanairofspecialinterest，andmadeonealmostfeelthattheywereaskedwithsomespecialviewtoone’sindividualwelfare。Nowthefactis，thatI
amamarriedmanwithafamily；butIamnotmuchgiventotalktostrangersaboutmydomesticconcerns，and，therefore，thoughIhadnoparticularobjectinview，Ideniedmyobligationsinthisrespect。\"No，\"saidI；\"Ihavenotcometothatpromotionyet。I
amtoofrequentlyonthemovetowritemyselfdownasPaterfamilias。\"
\"Thenyouknownothingaboutthatpleasantnessofwhichyouspokejustnow？\"
\"Noroftheunpleasantness，thankGod；mypersonalexperiencesarealltocome，——asalsoareyours，Ipresume？\"
Itwaspossiblethathehadhamperedhimselfwithsomewoman，andthatshewastomeethimatAlexandria。Poorfellow！thoughtI。
Buthisunhappinesswasnotofthatkind。\"No，\"saidhe；\"Iamnotmarried；Iamallaloneintheworld。\"
\"ThenIcertainlywouldnotallowmyselftobetroubledbyunpleasantacquaintances。\"
ItwasnowfourhourssincewehadleftJerusalem，andwehadarrivedattheplaceatwhichitwasproposedthatweshouldbreakfast。Therewasalargewellthere，andshadeaffordedbyarockunderwhichthewatersprung；andtheArabshadconstructedatankoutofwhichthehorsescoulddrink，sothattheplacewasordinarilyknownasthefirststageoutofJerusalem。
Smithhadsaidnotawordabouthissaddle，orcomplainedinanywayofdiscomfort，sothatIhadintruthforgottenthesubject。Othermattershadcontinuallypresentedthemselves，andIhadneverevenaskedhimhowhehadfared。Inowjumpedfrommyhorse，butI
perceivedatoncethathewasunabletodoso。Hesmiledfaintly，ashiseyecaughtmine，butIknewthathewantedassistance。\"Ah，\"
saidI，\"thatconfoundedTurkishsaddlehasalreadygalledyourskin。Iseehowitis；Ishallhavetodoctoryouwithalittlebrandy，——externallyapplied，myfriend。\"ButIlenthimmyshoulder，andwiththatassistancehegotdown，verygentlyandslowly。
Weateourbreakfastwithagoodwill；breadandcoldfowlandbrandy-and-water，withahard-boiledeggbywayofafinaldelicacy；
andthenIbegantobargainwithJosephfortheloanofhisEnglishsaddle。IsawthatSmithcouldnotgetthroughthejourneywiththatmonstrousTurkishaffair，andthathewouldgoonwithoutcomplainingtillhefaintedorcametosomeothersignalgrief。ButtheFrenchman，seeingtheplightinwhichwewere，wasdisposedtodriveaveryhardbargain。Hewantedfortyshillings，thepriceofapairofliveBedouins，fortheaccommodation，anddeclaredthat，eventhen，heshouldmakethesacrificeonlyoutofconsiderationtome。
\"Verywell，\"saidI。\"I’mtolerablytoughmyself；andI’llchangewiththegentleman。ThechancesarethatIshallnotbeinaveryliberalhumourwhenIreachJaffawithstifflimbsandasoreskin。
Ihaveaverygoodmemory，Joseph。\"
\"I’lltakethirtyshillings，Mr。Jones；thoughIshallhavetogroanallthewaylikeacondemneddevil。\"
Istruckabargainwithhimatlastforfive-and-twenty，andsethimtoworktomakethenecessarychangeonthehorses。\"Itwillbejustthesamethingtohim，\"IsaidtoSmith。\"Ifindthatheisasmuchusedtooneastotheother。\"
\"Buthowmuchmoneyareyoutopayhim？\"heasked。\"Oh，nothing，\"I
replied。\"GivehimafewpiastreswhenyoupartwithhimatJaffa。\"
IdonotknowwhyIshouldhavefeltthusinclinedtopaymoneyoutofmypocketforthisSmith，——amanwhomIhadonlyseenforthefirsttimeontheprecedingevening，andwhosetemperamentwassoessentiallydifferentfrommyown；butsoIdid。Iwouldhavedonealmostanythinginreasonforhiscomfort；andyethewasamelancholyfellow，withgoodinwardpluckasIbelieved，butwithoutthatoutwardshowofdashandhardihoodwhichIconfessIlovetosee。\"PraytellhimthatI’llpayhimforit，\"saidhe。\"We’llmakethatallright，\"Ianswered；andthenweremounted，——notwithoutsomedifficultyonhispart。\"Youshouldhaveletmerubinthatbrandy，\"Isaid。\"Youcan’tconceivehowefficaciouslyIwouldhavedoneit。\"Buthemademenoanswer。
AtnoonwemetacaravanofpilgrimscomingupfromJordan。Theremightbesomethreeorfourhundred，butthenumberseemedtobetreblethat，fromthelooseandstragglinglineinwhichtheyjourneyed。Itwasaverysingularsight，astheymovedslowlyalongthenarrowpaththroughthesand，comingoutofadefileamongthehills，whichwasperhapsaquarterofamileinfrontofus，passingusaswestoodstillbythewayside，andthenwindingagainoutofsightonthetrackoverwhichwehadcome。Somerodeoncamels，——awholefamily，inmanycases，beingperchedonthesameanimal。I
observedaveryoldmanandaveryoldwomanslunginpanniersoveracamel’sback，——notsuchpanniersasmightbebefittingsuchapurpose，butsquarebaskets，sothattheheadsandheelsofeachoftheoldcouplehungoutoftherearandfront。\"Surelythejourneywillbetheirdeath，\"IsaidtoJoseph。\"Yesitwill，\"hereplied，quitecoolly；\"butwhatmatterhowsoontheydienowthattheyhavebathedinJordan？\"Verymanyrodeondonkeys；two，generally，oneachdonkey；others，whohadcommandofmoney，onhorses；butthegreaternumberwalked，toilingpainfullyfromJerusalemtoJerichoonthefirstday，sleepingthereintentsandgoingtobatheonthesecondday，andthenreturningfromJerichotoJerusalemonthethird。Thepilgrimageismadethroughoutinaccordancewithfixedrules，andthereisatariffforthetentaccommodationatJericho，——
somuchperheadpernight，includingtheuseofhotwater。
Standingthere，closebythewayside，wecouldseenotonlythegarmentsandfacesofthesestrangepeople，butwecouldwatchtheirgesturesandformsomeopinionofwhatwasgoingonwithintheirthoughts。Theyweremuchquieter，——tamer，asitwere，——thanEnglishmenwouldbeundersuchcircumstances。Thosewhowerecarriedseemedtositontheirbeastsinpassivetranquillity，neitherenjoyingnorsufferinganything。TheirobjecthadbeentowashinJordan，——todothatonceintheirlives；——andtheyhadwashedinJordan。Thebenefitexpectedwasnottobeimmediatelyspiritual。Noearnestprayerfulnesswasconsiderednecessaryaftertheceremony。TothesemembersoftheGreekChristianChurchithadbeenhandeddownfromfathertosonthatwashinginJordanonceduringlifewasefficacioustowardssalvation。Andthereforethejourneyhadbeenmadeatterriblecostandterriblerisk；forthesepeoplehadcomefromafar，andwerefromtheirhabitsbutlittlecapableoflongjourneys。Manydieunderthetoil；butthismattersnotiftheydonotdiebeforetheyhavereachedJordan。Somefewthereare，undoubtedly，moreecstaticinthisgreatdeedoftheirreligion。OnemanIespeciallynoticedonthisday。HehadboundhimselftomakethepilgrimagefromJerusalemtotheriverwithonefootbare。Hewasofabetterclass，andwasevennoblydressed，asthoughitwereapartofhisvowtoshowtoallmenthathedidthisdeed，wealthyandgreatthoughhewas。Hewasafineman，perhapsthirtyyearsofage，withawell-grownbearddescendingonhisbreast，andathisgirdlehecarriedabraceofpistols。
ButneverinmylifehadIseenbodilypainsoplainlywritteninaman’sface。Thesweatwasfallingfromhisbrow，andhiseyeswerestrainedandbloodshotwithagony。Hehadnostick，hisvow，I
presume，debarringhimfromsuchassistance，andhelimpedalong，puttingtothegroundtheheeloftheunprotectedfoot。Icouldseeit，anditwasamassofblood，andsores，andbrokenskin。AnIrishgirlwouldwalkfromJerusalemtoJerichowithoutshoes，andbenotapennytheworseforit。ThispoorfellowclearlysufferedsomuchthatIwasalmostinclinedtothinkthatintheperformanceofhispenancehehaddonesomethingtoaggravatehispain。Thosearoundhimpaidnoattentiontohim，andthedragomanseemedtothinknothingoftheaffairwhatever。\"ThosefoolsofGreeksdonotunderstandtheChristianreligion，\"hesaid，beinghimselfaLatinorRomanCatholic。
AtthetailofthelineweencounteredtwoBedouins，whowereinchargeofthecaravan，andJosephatonceaddressedthem。Themenweremounted，oneonaverysorry-lookingjade，buttheotheronagoodstoutArabbarb。Theyhadgunsslungbehindtheirbacks，colouredhandkerchiefsontheirheads，andtheyworethestripedbernouse。Theparleywentonforabouttenminutes，duringwhichtheprocessionofpilgrimswoundoutofsight；anditendedinourbeingaccompaniedbythetwoArabs，whothuslefttheirgreaterchargetotakecareofitselfbacktothecity。IunderstoodafterwardsthattheyhadendeavouredtopersuadeJosephthatwemightjustaswellgoonalone，merelysatisfyingthedemandofthetariff。ButhehadpointedoutthatIwasaparticularman，andthatundersuchcircumstancesthefinalsettlementmightbedoubtful。Sotheyturnedandaccompaniedus；but，asamatteroffact，weshouldhavebeenaswellwithoutthem。
ThesunwasbeginningtofallintheheavenswhenwereachedtheactualmarginoftheDeadSea。Wehadseentheglitterofitsstillwatersforalongtimepreviously，shiningunderthesunasthoughitwerenotreal。Wehaveoftenheard，andsomeofushaveseen，howeffectsoflightandshadetogetherwillproducesovividanappearanceofwaterwherethereisnowater，astodeceivethemostexperienced。Butthereversewasthecasehere。Therewasthelake，andthereithadbeenbeforeoureyesforthelasttwohours；
andyetitlooked，thenandnow，asthoughitwereanimageofalake，andnotrealwater。Ihadlongsincemadeupmymindtobatheinit，feelingwellconvincedthatIcoulddosowithoutharmtomyself，andIhadbeenendeavouringtopersuadeSmithtoaccompanyme；buthepositivelyrefused。Hewouldbathe，hesaid，neitherintheDeadSeanorintheriverJordan。Hedidnotlikebathing，andpreferredtodohiswashinginhisownroom。OfcourseIhadnothingfurthertosay，andbeggedthat，underthesecircumstances，hewouldtakechargeofmypurseandpistolswhileIwasinthewater。Thisheagreedtodo；buteveninthishewasstrangeandalmostuncivil。Iwastobathefromthefarthestpointofalittleisland，intowhichtherewasaroughcausewayfromthelandmadeofstonesandbrokenpiecesofwood，andIexhortedhimtogowithmethither；butheinsistedonremainingwithhishorseonthemainlandatsomelittledistancefromtheisland。Hedidnotfeelinclinedtogodowntothewater’sedge，hesaid。
IconfessthatatthismomentIalmostsuspectedthathewasgoingtoplaymefoul，andIhesitated。Hesawinaninstantwhatwaspassingthroughmymind。\"Youhadbettertakeyourpistolandmoneywithyou；theywillbequitesafeonyourclothes。\"Buttohavekeptthethingsnowwouldhaveshownsuspiciontooplainly，andasI
couldnotbringmyselftodothat，Igavethemup。IhavesometimesthoughtthatIwasafooltodoso。
Iwentawaybymyselftotheendoftheisland，andthenIdidbathe。Itisimpossibletoconceiveanythingmoredesolatethantheappearanceoftheplace。Thelandshelvesverygraduallyawaytothewater，andthewholemargin，tothebreadthofsometwentyorthirtyfeet，isstrewnwiththedebrisofrushes，bitsoftimber，andoldwhitewitheredreeds。Whencethesebitsoftimberhavecomeitseemsdifficulttosay。Theappearanceisasthoughthewaterhadrecededandleftthemthere。IhavehearditsaidthatthereisnovegetationneartheDeadSea；butsuchisnotthecase，fortheserushesdogrowonthebank。Ifounditdifficultenoughtogetintothewater，forthegroundshelvesdownveryslowly，andisroughwithstonesandlargepiecesofhalf-rottenwood；moreover，whenI
wasinnearlyuptomyhipsthewaterknockedmedown；indeed，itdidsowhenIhadgoneasfarasmyknees，butIrecoveredmyself；
andbyperseverancedidproceedsomewhatfarther。Itmustnotbeimaginedthatthisknockingdownwaseffectedbythemovementofthewater。Thereisnosuchmovement。Everythingisperfectlystill，andthefluidseemshardlytobedisplacedbytheentranceofthebody；buttheeffectisthatone’sfeetaretrippedup，andthatonefallsprostrateontothesurface。Thewaterissostrongandbuoyant，that，whenaboveafewfeetindepthhastobeencountered，thestrengthandweightofthebatherarenotsufficienttokeepdownhisfeetandlegs。Ithenessayedtoswim；butIcouldnotdothisintheordinaryway，asIwasunabletokeepenoughofmybodybelowthesurface；sothatmyheadandfaceseemedtobepropelleddownuponit。
Iturnedroundandfloated，buttheglareofthesunwassopowerfulthatIcouldnotremainlonginthatposition。However，IhadbathedintheDeadSea，andwassofarsatisfied。
Anythingmoreabominabletothepalatethanthiswater，ifitbewater，Ineverhadinsidemymouth。Iexpectedittobeextremelysalt，andnodoubt，ifitwereanalysed，suchwouldbetheresult；
butthereisaflavourinitwhichkillsthesalt。Noattemptcanbemadeatdescribingthistaste。ItmaybeimaginedthatIdidnotdrinkheartily，merelytakingupadroportwowithmytonguefromthepalmofmyhand；butitseemedtomeasthoughIhadbeendrenchedwithit。Evenbrandywouldnotrelievemefromit。Andthenmywholebodywasinamess，andIfeltasthoughIhadbeenrubbedwithpitch。Lookingatmylimbs，Isawnosignonthemofthefluid。Theyseemedtodryfromthisastheyusuallydofromanyotherwater；butstillthefeelingremained。However，IwastoridefromhencetoaspotonthebanksofJordan，whichIshouldreachinanhour，andatwhichIwouldwash；soIclothedmyself，andpreparedformydeparture。
SeatedinmypositionintheislandIwasunabletoseewhatwasgoingonamongtheremainderoftheparty，andthereforecouldnottellwhethermypistolsandmoneywassafe。Idressed，therefore，ratherhurriedly，andongettingagaintotheshore，foundthatMr。
JohnSmithhadnotlevanted。HewasseatedonhishorseatsomedistancefromJosephandtheArabs，andhadnoappearanceofbeinginleaguewiththose，nodoubt，worthyguides。Icertainlyhadsuspectedaruse，andnowwasangrywithmyselfthatIhaddoneso；
andyet，inLondon，onewouldnottrustone’smoneytoastrangerwhomonehadmettwenty-fourhourssinceinacoffee-room！Why，then，doitwithastrangerwhomonechancedtomeetinadesert？
\"Thanks，\"Isaid，ashehandedmemybelongings。\"IwishIcouldhaveinducedyoutocomeinalso。TheDeadSeaisnowatyourelbow，and，therefore，youthinknothingofit；butintenorfifteenyears’time，youwouldbegladtobeabletotellyourchildrenthatyouhadbathedinit。\"
\"Ishallneverhaveanychildrentocareforsuchtidings，\"hereplied。
TheriverJordan，forsomemilesabovethepointatwhichitjoinstheDeadSea，runsthroughverysteepbanks，——bankswhicharealmostprecipitous，——andis，asitwere，guardedbythethicktreesandbusheswhichgrowuponitssides。Thisissomuchthecase，thatonemayride，aswedid，foraconsiderabledistancealongthemargin，andnotbeableeventoapproachthewater。Ihadafancyforbathinginsomespotofmyownselection，insteadofgoingtotheopenshorefrequentedbyallthepilgrims；butIwasbaffledinthis。WhenIdidforcemywaydowntotheriverside，Ifoundthatthewaterransorapidly，andthatthebushesandboughsoftreesgrewsofaroverandintothestream，astomakeitimpossibleformetobathe。Icouldnothavegotinwithoutmyclothes，andhavinggotin，Icouldnothavegotoutagain。Iwas，thereforeobligedtoputupwiththeopenmuddyshoretowhichthebathersdescend，andatwhichwemaypresumethatJoshuapassedwhenhecameoverasoneofthetwelvespiestospyouttheland。AndevenhereIcouldnotgofullintothestreamasIwouldfainhavedone，lestIshouldbecarrieddown，andsohaveassistedtowhitentheshoresoftheDeadSeawithmybones。AstogettingovertotheMoabitishsideoftheriver，thatwasplainlyimpossible；and，indeed，itseemedtobetheprevailingopinionthatthepassageoftheriverwasnotpracticablewithoutgoingupasfarasSamaria。Andyetweknowthatthere，orthereabouts，theIsraelitesdidcrossit。
IjumpedfrommyhorsethemomentIgottotheplace，andoncemoregavemypurseandpistolstomyfriend。\"Youaregoingtobatheagain？\"hesaid。\"Certainly，\"saidI；\"youdon’tsupposethatI
wouldcometoJordanandnotwashthere，evenifIwerenotfoulwiththefoulnessoftheDeadSea！\"\"You’llkillyourself，inyourpresentstateofheat；\"hesaid，remonstratingjustasone’smotherorwifemightdo。ButevenhaditbeenmymotherorwifeIcouldnothaveattendedtosuchremonstrancethen；andbeforehehaddonelookingatmewiththosebigeyesofhis，mycoatandwaistcoatandcravatwereontheground，andIwasatworkatmybraces；whereuponheturnedfrommeslowly，andstrolledawayintothewood。OnthisoccasionIhadnobasefearsaboutmymoney。
AndthenIdidbathe，——veryuncomfortably。Theshorewasmuddywiththefeetofthepilgrims，andtheriversorapidthatIhardlydaredtogetbeyondthemud。Ididmanagetotakeaplungein，head-
foremost，butIwasforcedtowadeoutthroughthedirtandslush，sothatIfounditdifficulttomakemyfeetandlegscleanenoughformyshoesandstockings；andthen，moreover，thefliesplaguedmemostunmercifully。IshouldhavethoughtthatthefilthyflavourfromtheDeadSeawouldhavesavedmefromthatnuisance；butthemosquitoesthereaboutsareprobablyusedtoit。Findingthisprocessofbathingtobesodifficult，Iinquiredastothepracticeofthepilgrims。Ifoundthatwiththem，bathinginJordanhascometobemuchthesameasbaptismhaswithus。Itdoesnotmeanimmersion。Nodoubttheydotakeofftheirshoesandstockings；buttheydonotstrip，andgobodilyintothewater。
AssoonasIwasdressedIfoundthatSmithwasagainatmysidewithpurseandpistols。Wethenwentupalittleabovethewood，andsatdowntogetheronthelongsandygrass。Itwasnowquiteevening，sothattheshortSyriantwilighthadcommenced，andthesunwasnolongerhotintheheavens。ItwouldbenightaswerodeontothetentsatJericho；buttherewasnodifficultyastotheway，andthereforewedidnothurrythehorses，whowerefeedingonthegrass。Wesatdowntogetheronaspotfromwhichwecouldseethestream，——closetogether，sothatwhenIstretchedmyselfoutinmyweariness，asIdidbeforewestarted，myheadrestedonhislegs。Ah，me！onedoesnottakesuchlibertieswithnewfriendsinEngland。Itwasaplacewhichledoneontosomespecialthoughts。